Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

in heavy wind conditions I need extra two wraps of the furling line around the 
drum to furl the sail completely.

Marek

C270 Legato 
Ottawa, ON

From: Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Bina - gmail 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

Wind conditions while rolling up seems to have an effect on how tightly the 
sail wraps, and how much cord gets used.




Bill Bina




On 6/21/2016 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

  Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
  Ron
  Wild Cheri
  C 30-1
  STL






--
  From: Indigo via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Indigo mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us
  Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line


  I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation 
between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the 
diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line 
required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be 
potentially very different. 

  --






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Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,

If the batteries are shot, don't they get warm 
with hard charging? Danny's original message says the batteries are not warm.


Maybe he is deep cycling the battery bank.

Cheers, Russ



At 09:27 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_01F9_01D1CC14.71395510"
Content-Language: en-us

Dan –
This may be an indication that your batteries 
are shot.  The charger is working to give them a 
juice and they’re just not having it.   Take a 
look at them before you change your 
charger.But also look for loose connections.





From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm


Hi Danny,

I like how you find it goes grey, most of your fellows call it gray. :)

Anyhow, the meter pegs over 30 amps, let's say 
35 for this discussion... and at 15 volts we're 
looking at something near 500 watts to the 
batteries. If it's a 90 percent efficient 
battery charger then it has to dump 50 watts or so into the surroundings.


For perspective and giggles, turn on a 40 watt 
light bulb and see how long you can hang on to it. Yow!


A machine at 160 F, you can touch but not hold 
your hand on for very long, 180 F is tolerable 
for less than a second. From your description, I 
suggest the battery charger is operating around 
150 F if you can put pressure on it with your 
hand. That is not a worry if it's like that for 
a few hours. I am also assuming ambient cooling (no fan).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:20 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:

Hi guys,
When I turn the battery charger on it greys very 
warm.   The Guage pins all the way past 30 amps.


It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold 
your hands on for very long.   The batteries are 
not warm and seem to have taken some charge over a couple hours.


It's this normal?   I don't like that heat...
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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Dan - 

This may be an indication that your batteries are shot.  The charger is
working to give them a juice and they're just not having it.   Take a look
at them before you change your charger.But also look for loose
connections.

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 11:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

 


Hi Danny,

I like how you find it goes grey, most of your fellows call it gray. :)

Anyhow, the meter pegs over 30 amps, let's say 35 for this discussion... and
at 15 volts we're looking at something near 500 watts to the batteries. If
it's a 90 percent efficient battery charger then it has to dump 50 watts or
so into the surroundings.

For perspective and giggles, turn on a 40 watt light bulb and see how long
you can hang on to it. Yow!

A machine at 160 F, you can touch but not hold your hand on for very long,
180 F is tolerable for less than a second. From your description, I suggest
the battery charger is operating around 150 F if you can put pressure on it
with your hand. That is not a worry if it's like that for a few hours. I am
also assuming ambient cooling (no fan).

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:20 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:



Hi guys, 
When I turn the battery charger on it greys very warm.   The Guage pins all
the way past 30 amps.

It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold your hands on for very long.
The batteries are not warm and seem to have taken some charge over a couple
hours. 

It's this normal?   I don't like that heat...

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Danny,

I like how you find it goes grey, most of your fellows call it gray. :)

Anyhow, the meter pegs over 30 amps, let's say 35 for this 
discussion... and at 15 volts we're looking at something near 500 
watts to the batteries. If it's a 90 percent efficient battery 
charger then it has to dump 50 watts or so into the surroundings.


For perspective and giggles, turn on a 40 watt light bulb and see how 
long you can hang on to it. Yow!


A machine at 160 F, you can touch but not hold your hand on for very 
long, 180 F is tolerable for less than a second. From your 
description, I suggest the battery charger is operating around 150 F 
if you can put pressure on it with your hand. That is not a worry if 
it's like that for a few hours. I am also assuming ambient cooling (no fan).


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 05:20 PM 21/06/2016, you wrote:

Hi guys,
When I turn the battery charger on it greys very warm.   The Guage 
pins all the way past 30 amps.


It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold your hands on for 
very long.   The batteries are not warm and seem to have taken some 
charge over a couple hours.


It's this normal?   I don't like that heat...

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Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/icebox/build_icebox.htm this one?
On Jun 21, 2016 8:02 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Read about my refrigeration install.  There is a link on the cncphotoalbum
> home page. There was about 1 1/8 inch open cell sheet foam around the box.
> There are pics in the project document.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1
> On Jun 21, 2016 6:17 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I
>> need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
>> How thick or good is the factory insulation?
>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Read about my refrigeration install.  There is a link on the cncphotoalbum
home page. There was about 1 1/8 inch open cell sheet foam around the box.
There are pics in the project document.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1
On Jun 21, 2016 6:17 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I
> need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
> How thick or good is the factory insulation?
> Thanks
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Sweet,  thanks.  I have an isotherm sitting in a box to install.
Where did you put the compressor and where did you put the evaporator?  I
plan to put the evaporator vertical against the side closest to the sink.
Any tip on install?
On Jun 21, 2016 5:56 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

The 30-2's have are reasonably well insulated and do have an insulated lid
like the other Rob Ball boats. I personally wouldn't go tearing into the
cabinetry until after you install the refrigeration unit and see how it
does, especially since you'll be on shore power.

Our Isotherm does quite fine. The cooling setting goes from 1-10. We keep
ours at 1.5, which keeps food frozen in the freezer compartment. At setting
2 the entire reefer begins to freeze!

Lorne, wait for other 30-2 members to weigh in. 60's and 70's boats are
very different than late 80's / early 90's boats.

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 4:27 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration.  You will definitely
> need more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat.  In
> fact, if you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no
> insulation at all there unless a previous owner added some.  There are a
> lot of discussions about converting the old ice boxes to refrigeration on
> this forum.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Jun 21, 2016, at 7:16 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I
> need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
> > How thick or good is the factory insulation?
> > Thanks
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> 2501 Boston Street
> Mailbox #505
> Baltimore, MD 21224
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Battery charger getting warm

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi guys, When I turn the battery charger on it greys very warm.   The Guage 
pins all the way past 30 amps.
It is not too hot to touch but too hour to hold your hands on for very long.   
The batteries are not warm and seem to have taken some charge over a couple 
hours. 
It's this normal?   I don't like that heat...


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device___

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Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd, Alan, and Chuck for the suggestions.  She's currently on the Toms 
River, so Toms River YC could maybe be a possibility.  I will ask around my 
marina as well.

Chuck - We had an uneventful transit through the Manasquan inlet Saturday in a 
3-4' East swell with a South wind about 15kts.  However, what I hadn't expected 
was the following current once inside.  It was ripping 3-4kts as I pulled up to 
Hoffman's for our overnight slip.  That made for an interesting end to a long 
sailing day when the usually-open rail bridge between us and our slip snapped 
shut on our approach.  

The Point Pleasant canal was no problem on Sunday as we timed it for slack 
tide.  I can imagine that canal turns into a washing machine though when the 
currents run.  The biggest problem I had in the narrow canal was keeping her 
steady when power boaters would go blasting by completely ignoring the no wake 
restriction.  The four bridge operators we contacted for openings to make our 
way to the Toms River were very helpful.


> On Jun 21, 2016, at 3:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (ALAN BERGEN)
>   2. Re:  C 30-2 -when to reef?? (Kevin Driscoll)
>   3. Re:  Roller Furling Line (Joel Aronson)
>   4. Re:  continuous line furlers (Martin Kane)
>   5. Re:  NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki (Chuck Gilchrest)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 11:33:45 -0700
> From: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> To: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki
> Message-ID:
><cabnknf0kvquo8bhp6zt-akcknz_f1ifbr_faex+fgvsisip...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Check out the yacht clubs in your area.  Possibly one or two in your
> marina.  Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to meet
> racers who can give you advice.  Also, lots of social activities.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland. OR
> 
> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> Hey listers,
>> 
>> After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
>> interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
>> a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
>> outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
>> It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
>> wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
>> Mass as a kid.
>> 
>> We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
>> dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
>> to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>> 
>> Ryan
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
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> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160621/561be000/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 18:34:15 +
> From: Kevin Driscoll <kevindrisc...@gmail.com>
> To: "C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??
> Message-ID:
><CA+LFByqgaBmqh8qvxzF9JSuyHtLBRUMqos+=4fstmt_zrml...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Allen to your question:
> 
> Main
> 
>   - outhaul
>   - cunningham
>   - backstay tensioner (mech)
>   - fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast)
>   - cabin top traveler
>   - boom vang
>   - Fisherman's reef
>   - 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs
>  

Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

The 30-2's have are reasonably well insulated and do have an insulated lid
like the other Rob Ball boats. I personally wouldn't go tearing into the
cabinetry until after you install the refrigeration unit and see how it
does, especially since you'll be on shore power.

Our Isotherm does quite fine. The cooling setting goes from 1-10. We keep
ours at 1.5, which keeps food frozen in the freezer compartment. At setting
2 the entire reefer begins to freeze!

Lorne, wait for other 30-2 members to weigh in. 60's and 70's boats are
very different than late 80's / early 90's boats.

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 4:27 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration.  You will definitely
> need more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat.  In
> fact, if you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no
> insulation at all there unless a previous owner added some.  There are a
> lot of discussions about converting the old ice boxes to refrigeration on
> this forum.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Jun 21, 2016, at 7:16 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I
> need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
> > How thick or good is the factory insulation?
> > Thanks
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> 2501 Boston Street
> Mailbox #505
> Baltimore, MD 21224
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Thanks, I've read a lot about it, but didn't know how good the box is to
start with.

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 5:26 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration.  You will definitely
> need more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat.  In
> fact, if you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no
> insulation at all there unless a previous owner added some.  There are a
> lot of discussions about converting the old ice boxes to refrigeration on
> this forum.
>
> Bob
>
> > On Jun 21, 2016, at 7:16 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I
> need to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
> > How thick or good is the factory insulation?
> > Thanks
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> Robert Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38, Hull #230
>
> 2501 Boston Street
> Mailbox #505
> Baltimore, MD 21224
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 for the dogbones. I have them on each reef tack. They work great. 
Marek 


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List  
Date: 2016/06/21  10:31  (GMT-07:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef?? 
 Original message From: Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
 Date: 2016/06/21  10:31  (GMT-07:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net Subject: Re: Stus-List 
C 30-2 -when to reef?? 

I sewed dogbones for my first and second reefs a few weeks ago...i LOVE them!  
My tack would inevitably come off the reef hook when I was hooking directly 
onto the sail grommet.



Mike

Atacama 33ii. 

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.

Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.

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Re: Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Our old boats were not designed for refrigeration.  You will definitely need 
more insulation from what was originally supplied with the boat.  In fact, if 
you look at the interior ceiling of your icebox, there is no insulation at all 
there unless a previous owner added some.  There are a lot of discussions about 
converting the old ice boxes to refrigeration on this forum.

Bob

> On Jun 21, 2016, at 7:16 PM, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I need 
> to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
> How thick or good is the factory insulation?  
> Thanks
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

Robert Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38, Hull #230

2501 Boston Street
Mailbox #505
Baltimore, MD 21224



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Stus-List How good is the ice box? 1988 30MkII

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

I'm converting to a fridge/icebox for live aboard.  I'm wondering if I need
to spray some more foam somehow around the outside of the box.
How thick or good is the factory insulation?
Thanks
___

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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Removing the core on the begiining of the wrap on the drum allows the line to 
lay more evening and reduces the line build up.  You can maintain the core in 
the portion of the line that is handled.  I've been dong this for many years.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Jun 21, 2016, at 2:59 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Never heard of removing the core.  Sounds stupid!  I could see stripping 
> cover. If the line is as long as the boat, you are probably OK.
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:18 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Joel,
>> 
>> You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps of 
>> rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin of 
>> error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…
>> 
>> And like Fred said, you could also use a calculus to determine the exact 
>> length you needed.   Or measure the line that came off the drum to begin 
>> with…
>> 
>> As was previously mentioned, some folks will remove the core of the rope 
>> that sits on the drum to avoid extra bulk.  My only concern with that 
>> approach is when someone uses a winch to furl their jib.  Removing the core 
>> from a double braid rope will reduce tensile strength by nearly 75%.  I’m 
>> more inclined to use a single braided rope such as NER Regatta Braid, 
>> Novabraid Sprint, or Samson Control DPX which will flatten out when spooled 
>> on a drum, but will retain 100% of tensile strength.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 LF 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel 
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:06 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Joel Aronson 
>> 
>> 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
>>  
>> 
>> Chuck, 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way. 
>> Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the 
>> "circumference" or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will 
>> change as the rope unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's 
>> use the max circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum 
>> to the furling line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers 
>> that the rope needs to pass through.
>> 
>> Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler from 
>> fully deployed to fully furled.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> So the length calculation will be:
>> 
>> Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus distance 
>> of drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be handled in 
>> different spots of the cockpit.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my 
>> jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight 
>> almost always requires extra turns on the furler.
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983  Landfall 35
>> 
>> Padanaram MA
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
>> 
>> Ron
>> 
>> Wild Cheri
>> 
>> C 30-1
>> 
>> STL
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: Indigo via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Indigo 
>> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
>> 
>> 
>> I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation 
>> between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the 
>> diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the 
>> line required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail 
>> will be potentially very different. 
>> 
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>> 
>> 
>> > On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> >  wrote:
>> > 
>> > plus the foot length (24')
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please 

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

>From what I've heard you should never use a winch to furl the jib. Generally, 
>furlers don't respond well to that.
Marek


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
Date: 2016/06/21  12:19  (GMT-07:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line 

Joel,

You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps of 
rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin of 
error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…

And like Fred said, you could also use a calculus to determine the exact length 
you needed.   Or measure the line that came off the drum to begin with…

As was previously mentioned, some folks will remove the core of the rope that 
sits on the drum to avoid extra bulk.  My only concern with that approach is 
when someone uses a winch to furl their jib.  Removing the core from a double 
braid rope will reduce tensile strength by nearly 75%.  I’m more inclined to 
use a single braided rope such as NER Regatta Braid, Novabraid Sprint, or 
Samson Control DPX which will flatten out when spooled on a drum, but will 
retain 100% of tensile strength.



Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line



Chuck,



Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?



Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.



Joel



On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way. 
Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the "circumference" 
or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will change as the rope 
unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's use the max 
circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum to the furling 
line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers that the rope needs 
to pass through.

Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler from 
fully deployed to fully furled.



So the length calculation will be:

Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus distance of 
drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be handled in 
different spots of the cockpit.



Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my 
jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight almost 
always requires extra turns on the furler.
Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983  Landfall 35

Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL






  _


From: Indigo via CnC-List  
>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo  >
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line


I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different.

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List   > wrote:
>
> plus the foot length (24')


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--

Joel
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Three, maybe four if it's heavy air.  One on helm, one on mainsheet/traveler, 
one/two on Genoa.  I too have adjustable cars and if we're overpowered, we'll 
pull them back and spill off the top of the luff, tension the backstay (mine's 
now hydraulic).  Rarely touch Genoa luff tension.

Allen


From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:34 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Kevin Driscoll 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


Allen to your question:  


Main
  a.. outhaul

  b.. cunningham 
  c.. backstay tensioner (mech) 
  d.. fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast) 
  e.. cabin top traveler 
  f.. boom vang 
  g.. Fisherman's reef 
  h.. 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs 
  i.. halyard tenshion
Head
  a.. backstay tensioner  
  b.. adjustable cars 
  c.. Halyard tension 
  d.. Roller furler (but we change headsails depending on conditions and don't 
partially furl much)
I'm not a Volvo racer, but I do race weekly on a variety of keel boats (racing 
to Hawaii July 12, Pac Cup), and can manage sail shape. Granted my sails are 
tired, and the 30-2 is a great boat albeit a bit tender. 


How much crew do you have on the rail when racing?


Best,
Kevin


On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:00 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Port ring comes down and hooks on the stbd horn and vice versa.  Don't try to 
imagine the dogbone as coming down and hooking on both horns.  You can make 
your own dogbone easy with a piece of amsteel and 2 rings.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Jun 21, 2016 1:54 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Ah ha,  thanks for the link and picture in it.   Dogbone . 

On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC

  On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single. 

On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

  I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep 
the boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
  Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, 
and you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce 
pressure on the rudder.
   
  You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a 
chart in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's 
stiffness.
  That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
   
  Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a 
prudent measure.
  If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding 
"dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the 
possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
   
  Give a report on your 1st sail.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  '91 C 30-2 #170
  Deltaville, VA
   
   
   
   
  Message: 6
  Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
  From: Allan Rheaume 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
  Message-ID:
  <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

  Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am with Steve on that. You can over think it, if you want to. But if you buy 
about 2x the boat length you should be fine. At the price you pay for a line of 
this diameter you can add extra 10 ft. for good  measure.
Of course involving calculus is so much more fun.
Marek


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
Date: 2016/06/21  14:11  (GMT-07:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line 

I'm really low tech - hoist the sail at the dock, connect the furling line
.. roll the sail up by hand (by manually rotating the drum) .. go a few
extra turns - to someone else's point, undoing jib sheets later is easy if
need be.

You guys are overthinking it :)

(probably I'm underthinking it)

If the question is "how much line will I need" then I guess you could do
some math - or just measure the old line.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[David via CnC-List]

Not stupid when you size the line accordingly.  What is stupid is getting a 
line wrap when trying to furl/unfurl because the line will not lay right on the 
spool with all that bulk .

10,000+ ocean miles has proven its efficacy. 

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 14:59:16 -0400
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: joel.aron...@gmail.com

Never heard of removing the core.  Sounds stupid!  I could see stripping cover. 
If the line is as long as the boat, you are probably OK.
Joel
On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:18 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Joel,You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps 
of rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin of 
error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…And like Fred said, you 
could also use a calculus to determine the exact length you needed.   Or 
measure the line that came off the drum to begin with…As was previously 
mentioned, some folks will remove the core of the rope that sits on the drum to 
avoid extra bulk.  My only concern with that approach is when someone uses a 
winch to furl their jib.  Removing the core from a double braid rope will 
reduce tensile strength by nearly 75%.  I’m more inclined to use a single 
braided rope such as NER Regatta Braid, Novabraid Sprint, or Samson Control DPX 
which will flatten out when spooled on a drum, but will retain 100% of tensile 
strength. Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic 1983 LF 35Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
 Chuck,  Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference? Be 
sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it. Joel On Tue, 
Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  
wrote:Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the 
way. Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the 
"circumference" or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will 
change as the rope unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's 
use the max circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum to 
the furling line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers that 
the rope needs to pass through.Now furl the jib taking care to count the number 
of turns on the furler from fully deployed to fully furled. So the length 
calculation will be:Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler 
turns plus distance of drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line 
to be handled in different spots of the cockpit. Depending on conditions such 
as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my jib can be furled either really 
tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight almost always requires extra turns on 
the furler.
Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983  Landfall 35Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets 
thicker?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL  From: Indigo via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo 
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> plus the foot length (24')


___

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 -- Joel 
301 541 8551
___



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!




-- 
Joel 
301 

Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm really low tech - hoist the sail at the dock, connect the furling line
.. roll the sail up by hand (by manually rotating the drum) .. go a few
extra turns - to someone else's point, undoing jib sheets later is easy if
need be.

You guys are overthinking it :)

(probably I'm underthinking it)

If the question is "how much line will I need" then I guess you could do
some math - or just measure the old line.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 I had not heard of it either, but the furling line for my boat had the core 
removed for the part of the line which was wrapped around the drum...which is 
most of the line...it took a bit getting used to the feel of it, but it works, 
(which is the most important part)!

 


Richard
1985 C 27 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Sent: Tue, Jun 21, 2016 3:00 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line



Never heard of removing the core.  Sounds stupid!  I could see stripping cover. 
If the line is as long as the boat, you are probably OK.


Joel





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Re: Stus-List continuous line furlers

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

I am still using a Hood model 810 "Line Drive" continuous loop furler on my 
27 and I find that it works well on that size of boat.
The only tricky thing is that you have to be careful to maintain tension on 
both lines when reefing in order to prevent the line from slipping in the 
sheave.
By the same token, there are effectively two lines that need to be secured 
under tension to maintain a partially furled foresail.

It is not difficult once you know what to do, just a different technique.
I do head up to take the load off the sail when furling if there is any 
significant wind.
I have thought that it would be more convenient if I installed a couple of 
cam cleats, but it has been 15 years now and I am still using a standard 
aluminum cleat on the cabin top.


There is no spool to jam from an uneven winding, the mechanical advantage 
remains the same as the sail is furled, and the furling line is unlikely to 
break. It can be all I want to handle when shortening the 155 in 25+ knots, 
but there is no need for a winch. More modern products appear to have larger 
sheaves, which would confer more mechanical advantage. I don't think that 
the particular model that I have would be good on a boat much over 30 feet. 
Like with spool furling systems, it is a good idea to maintain at least a 
slight tension whilst unfurling the sail since it is capable of pulling in a 
loop or a kink which jams it up.


I have no experience with using a wind-up furler with a spinnaker, but I do 
have an ATN sock and "Tacker", and I can tell you that it takes a long time 
to change from an unfurled genoa to a deployed spinnaker using that system. 
I find that I have to furl the genoa first or else it is liable to suck in a 
loose halyard or control line. The sock keeps everything under control but 
probably not suitable for rabid racers.


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON



- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Sprouse via CnC-List" 

To: 
Cc: "Bill Sprouse" 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 14:15
Subject: Stus-List continuous line furlers


Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin? 
Thoughts pro or con?


thanks
bill
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Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Allen how did you determine that 18 degrees is the optimal heel angle for your 
30-2? 

Thanks, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "allen via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "allen"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 6:49:03 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef? 

Lorne, 
It all depends What kind of sails are you carrying and how new they are. 
Septima originally came with a North Dacron 130 and main, both racing quality, 
and a full set of sail controls. We quickly learned that with her beam and big 
butt that 18 degrees heel was near optimal. 
We also learned that keeping her on her feet was achievable with the sail 
controls long before we had to reef the main. With a good mechanical backstay 
adjuster ( I have the original for sale ) and multipart Cunningham you could 
flatten the main and take some sag out of the headstay. Voila, back on her 
feet. We used to race in a shallow bay (6 - 8 feet MLLW ) where the local wind 
picked up to 18 -20 kts in the early PM. We never reefed, just used sail 
controls. 
Later I converted to an Ulmer Tape Drive 140. Sail weighed half of the North 
130 and did not stretch. Weight aloft went way down and ability to carry sail 
as wind increased went way up. However, by then we were on the eastern portion 
of LI Sound and the winds weren't so much. Big Genoa was great for powering up 
through the chop. Main still didn't require a reef. 
Lesson learned early on: Genoa is for power, main is for steerage. Septima's 
wheel has a leather cover I put there. Seams are placed such that rudder has 4 
degrees incidence when seams are TDC (easy to measure when on the hard). Helm's 
job is to place appropriate seam TDC and communicate "feel" to main trimmer ( 
on Septima, me using Harkin Windward Car setup. ) If helm starts to load up, I 
drop the car an inch, if it lightens I raise car an inch, keeping the mainsail 
trim untouched. Boat is fast, wake is smooth and other, larger boats wonder how 
you're going so fast. The foils on our boats are symmetrical versions of well 
tested low speed aircraft shapes and you want to keep the flow attached. The 
boat will "lift" to windward once you get the feel of her. 
I now have a new UK 140 tape drive so we'll see how it does. Haven't sailed it 
yet, but it is the engine so I expect we'll easily get to hull speed. 
My impressions: 30-2s are initially tender, then stiffen. Keeping the rudder in 
the water is good. Oh, and surfing down wind is a lot of fun too. We made up 
for a lot of upwind mistakes by overtaking boats down wind. 
Best of luck. 

Allen Miles 
S/V Septima 
30-2 
Hampton, VA 

From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:18 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef? 

I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15. My 
30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet. 
I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July. 

When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed? I believe the 
30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
what to believe. I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, but 
not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month. 

I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind and 
moves well. I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail flat. 

What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII? I fully understand that it is 
based on skill. In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 in 
Corpus Christi Bay, TX. The boat was a 35' Benatou. We had a great time with no 
worries. Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 foot less, 
less beam, and probably much less ballast? 






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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I've got a 30-1 not a 30-2 but I'll chime in anyway. 

Main: halyard, cunningham, outhaul, adjustable backstay, boom-end sheeting, 
traveler at aft end of cockpit, after-market Garhauer rigid vang (just 
installed), two reef points with single-line slab reefing for both. 

Headsail: halyard, adjustable backstay, adjustable genoa cars on tracks or 
snatch blocks on toe rails (depending on headsail size). Also my #2 genoa 
(~150%) can be reefed at its foot, which I'd never seen on a headsail before 
this boat. I've got two 170s (one heavy one light), a 150, a 130, a jib, and a 
storm jib. 

Plus two "staysails" (one heavy one light) with an adjustable tack track on the 
foredeck. The light one hoists to the masthead via spare headsail halyard (I've 
got two), and the heavy one hoists with the spinnaker pole topping lift. I've 
yet to fly those. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "allen via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "allen"  
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 11:23:03 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef?? 

Hey, all you 30-2 owners. 
I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have? 
Allen Miles 

From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef?? 

I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots. I like to keep the boat on 
its "feet". So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me. 
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll 
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the 
rudder. 

You are correct that this boat is "tender". I believe there is a chart in the 
photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness. 
That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO. 

Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent measure. 
If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap]. 

Give a report on your 1st sail. 

Pete W. 
Siren Song 
'91 C 30-2 #170 
Deltaville, VA 




Message: 6 
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC) 
From: Allan Rheaume  
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef? 
Message-ID: 
<814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90 







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Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Ryan,

Where is the boat being kept?  If you’re sailing in Barnegat Bay, Toms River 
Yacht Club may have the largest number of PHRF handicap races but I’m not sure 
if you need to be a member to compete.  Bay Head YC seems to be more focused on 
one design racing such as Catboats and Scows.

 

Further North, Manasquan River YC has several open regattas for PHRF boats, 
typically just a mile or so east of Manasquan Inlet.  Of course, getting there 
from Barnegat Bay isn’t the easiest if you need to negotiate the time and tides 
through the Point Pleasant Canal, but it appears you’re familiar with that.

 

As others have mentioned, Raritan Bay/ Keyport area is the next stop north for 
boat racing, and typically held in the lee of Sandy Hook.

To find out more information, there’s a North Sails loft in Wall Township on Rt 
34 that would likely be dialed in on the local racing scene in your area.

 

I spent my summers home from college back in the 1970’s as the boat cop on the 
Manasquan River, so I can say with some authority to pick your times heading in 
and out of the inlet.  It can be very tricky in a northeasterly blow or with 
any kind of large sea state and then there’s the matter of timing your 
drawbridge transits against the tide and current which runs both direction in 
the Manasquan River.  Be careful and seek local knowledge from fellow boaters.

Enjoy the new boat!

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Doyle 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ryan Doyle 
Subject: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

 

Hey listers, 

 

After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and interior 
spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time a couple 
weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn, outside and 
back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.  It was a great 
ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already wondering how we 
could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in Mass as a kid.

 

We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my dad 
and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how to get 
into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area? 

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

Ryan

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Re: Stus-List continuous line furlers

[Martin Kane via CnC-List]

I have a Selden GX 7.5 on a 29-2 that I use for my assym.

Pros relative to sock/snuffer are:
1. can rig at dock
2. No need to go to foredeck to release or retrieve
3. Can gybe by furling and the gybing and unfurling, if you want to
4. Can get sail in quickly if wind picks up
5. Get more use of assym as a result of the above.

Cons relative to snuffer are:
Boat bucks

In summary it was a great upgrade.

My forestay is set back from the stem and I'm able to attach the furler drum
to the stem and not have it interfere with the genoa furler. Without that
clearance you'd need a sprit which would make the package more complex to
install, take more time to rig and cost more.

Martin 
C 29-2 Recalculating

martink...@sympatico.ca

905 848 0925

-Original Message-
From: Bill Sprouse [mailto:bdspro...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List continuous line furlers

Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin?
Thoughts pro or con?

thanks
bill



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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Never heard of removing the core.  Sounds stupid!  I could see stripping
cover. If the line is as long as the boat, you are probably OK.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:18 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps
> of rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin
> of error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…
>
> And like Fred said, you could also use a calculus to determine the exact
> length you needed.   Or measure the line that came off the drum to begin
> with…
>
> As was previously mentioned, some folks will remove the core of the rope
> that sits on the drum to avoid extra bulk.  My only concern with that
> approach is when someone uses a winch to furl their jib.  Removing the core
> from a double braid rope will reduce tensile strength by nearly 75%.  I’m
> more inclined to use a single braided rope such as NER Regatta Braid,
> Novabraid Sprint, or Samson Control DPX which will flatten out when spooled
> on a drum, but will retain 100% of tensile strength.
>
>
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983 LF 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:06 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
>
>
>
> Chuck,
>
>
>
> Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?
>
>
>
> Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the
> way. Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the
> "circumference" or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it
> will change as the rope unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument,
> let's use the max circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from
> the drum to the furling line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or
> rollers that the rope needs to pass through.
>
> Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler
> from fully deployed to fully furled.
>
>
>
> So the length calculation will be:
>
> Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus
> distance of drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be
> handled in different spots of the cockpit.
>
>
>
> Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling,
> my jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight
> almost always requires extra turns on the furler.
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 1983  Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
>
> Ron
>
> Wild Cheri
>
> C 30-1
>
> STL
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* Indigo via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Indigo 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
>
>
> I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation
> between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the
> diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the
> line required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail
> will be potentially very different.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
>
> > On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > plus the foot length (24')
>
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Allen to your question:

Main

   - outhaul
   - cunningham
   - backstay tensioner (mech)
   - fixed baby stay (which I am going to remove to the mast)
   - cabin top traveler
   - boom vang
   - Fisherman's reef
   - 1st, 2nd, 3rd reefs
   - halyard tenshion

Head

   - backstay tensioner
   - adjustable cars
   - Halyard tension
   - Roller furler (but we change headsails depending on conditions and
   don't partially furl much)

I'm not a Volvo racer, but I do race weekly on a variety of keel boats
(racing to Hawaii July 12, Pac Cup), and can manage sail shape. Granted my
sails are tired, and the 30-2 is a great boat albeit a bit tender.

How much crew do you have on the rail when racing?

Best,
Kevin

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:00 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Port ring comes down and hooks on the stbd horn and vice versa.  Don't try
> to imagine the dogbone as coming down and hooking on both horns.  You can
> make your own dogbone easy with a piece of amsteel and 2 rings.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 21, 2016 1:54 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Ah ha,  thanks for the link and picture in it.   Dogbone .
>> On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
>>> On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single.
 On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep
> the boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots,
> and you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
> pressure on the rudder.
>
> You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a
> chart in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's
> stiffness.
> That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.
>
> Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
> measure.
> If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding
> "dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce
> the possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
>
> Give a report on your 1st sail.
>
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> '91 C 30-2 #170
> Deltaville, VA
>
>
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
> From: Allan Rheaume 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
> Message-ID:
> <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
> overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
>
> Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
> you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!


>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Check out the yacht clubs in your area.  Possibly one or two in your
marina.  Not all clubs are the large, rich snooty kinds. You'll get to meet
racers who can give you advice.  Also, lots of social activities.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland. OR

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey listers,
>
> After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
> interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
> a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
> outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
> It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
> wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
> Mass as a kid.
>
> We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
> dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
> to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Ryan
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Standard Deck from manual
Starboard  out to inboard:  Main Halyard, Boom Vang, Starboard Wing halyard, 
2nd reef, main sheet
Port :Port Wing halyard, Cunningham, 1st reef, outhaul

My main sheet comes off the bridge deck. Backstay adjuster starboard aft.

Allen Miles


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


Since my boat is along way away... My pictures I took show:
Port side: jib halyard,  outhaul,  reef 1, and one line in the clutch that 
isn't labeled. 

Starboard 
Two 3 pack clutches :Boom Vang,  Cunningham, and the rest I can't read of which 
one is empty. 

On Jun 21, 2016 11:24 AM, "allen via CnC-List"  wrote:

  Hey, all you 30-2 owners.

  I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?

  Allen Miles


  From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: kelly petew 
  Subject: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


  I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the 
boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
  Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and 
you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on 
the rudder.
   
  You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in 
the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
  That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
   
  Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent 
measure.
  If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
   
  Give a report on your 1st sail.
   
  Pete W.
  Siren Song
  '91 C 30-2 #170
  Deltaville, VA
   
   
   
   
  Message: 6
  Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
  From: Allan Rheaume 
  To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
  Message-ID:
  <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

  Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

  Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90




--


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  ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!







___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ryan,

Suggest you look into the racing out of Atlantic Highlands in Sandy Hook Bay — 
not too far from Brooklyn. I think Atlantic Highlands YC is the host club,

My father races his C 27 Mk V out of there. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





> On Jun 21, 2016, at 2:21 PM, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey listers, 
> 
> After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and interior 
> spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time a couple 
> weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn, outside 
> and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.  It was a 
> great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already wondering 
> how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in Mass as a 
> kid.
> 
> We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my dad 
> and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how to 
> get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area? 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
> 
> Ryan
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List NY/NJ Racing in a 30mki

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Hey listers,

After working on her all winter (repaint, total re-wire, rigging and
interior spruce ups), I splashed my new-to-me 1976 30mki for the first time
a couple weeks ago in Brooklyn.  This past weekend we sailed from Brooklyn,
outside and back in through the Manasquan inlet and into the Barnegat Bay.
It was a great ride.  After just a few hours on the boat my dad was already
wondering how we could race her.  He raced sunfish and other tiny boats in
Mass as a kid.

We know zip zero about racing on a boat this size, but it's something my
dad and I would love to get into.  Does anyone have any suggestions for how
to get into the sport with this boat in the NYC/NJ area?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ryan
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Joel,

You could use the mid point as an average, but I also leave 3 or 4 wraps of 
rope around the drum when the jib is fully furled just to have a margin of 
error when the jib is furled too tight or too loose…

And like Fred said, you could also use a calculus to determine the exact length 
you needed.   Or measure the line that came off the drum to begin with…

As was previously mentioned, some folks will remove the core of the rope that 
sits on the drum to avoid extra bulk.  My only concern with that approach is 
when someone uses a winch to furl their jib.  Removing the core from a double 
braid rope will reduce tensile strength by nearly 75%.  I’m more inclined to 
use a single braided rope such as NER Regatta Braid, Novabraid Sprint, or 
Samson Control DPX which will flatten out when spooled on a drum, but will 
retain 100% of tensile strength.

 

Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic 

1983 LF 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 2:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

 

Chuck, 

 

Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?

 

Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.

 

Joel

 

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way. 
Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the "circumference" 
or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will change as the rope 
unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's use the max 
circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum to the furling 
line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers that the rope needs 
to pass through.

Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler from 
fully deployed to fully furled.

 

So the length calculation will be:

Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus distance of 
drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be handled in 
different spots of the cockpit.

 

Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my 
jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight almost 
always requires extra turns on the furler.
Chuck Gilchrest

Half Magic

1983  Landfall 35

Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone


On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 > wrote:

Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 


  _  


From: Indigo via CnC-List  
>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: Indigo  >
Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line


I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List   > wrote:
> 
> plus the foot length (24')


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-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Stus-List continuous line furlers

[Bill Sprouse via CnC-List]

Is anyone using continuous line furlers for jib or asymmetrical spin? Thoughts 
pro or con?

thanks
bill
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

For Fred's sake you should have used the calculus!Nice calc using 
averages.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL



  From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 1:02 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
   
Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way. 
Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the "circumference" 
or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will change as the rope 
unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's use the max 
circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum to the furling 
line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers that the rope needs 
to pass through.Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on 
the furler from fully deployed to fully furled.
So the length calculation will be:Circumference of rope on drum times the 
number of furler turns plus distance of drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra 
rope to allow line to be handled in different spots of the cockpit.
Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my 
jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight almost 
always requires extra turns on the furler.
Chuck GilchrestHalf Magic1983  Landfall 35Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Why not measure from the mid-point of the drum's circumference?

Be sure you have enough line to wrap it around a winch and tail it.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 2:02 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the
> way. Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the
> "circumference" or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it
> will change as the rope unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument,
> let's use the max circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from
> the drum to the furling line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or
> rollers that the rope needs to pass through.
> Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler
> from fully deployed to fully furled.
>
> So the length calculation will be:
> Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus
> distance of drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be
> handled in different spots of the cockpit.
>
> Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling,
> my jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight
> almost always requires extra turns on the furler.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983  Landfall 35
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Indigo via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Indigo 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
>
> I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation
> between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the
> diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the
> line required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail
> will be potentially very different.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > plus the foot length (24')
>
>
> ___
>
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> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Measure the diameter of the drum full of line with the sail out all the way. 
Divide by 2 and multiply by pi (3.1415). That will give you the "circumference" 
or length of rope for one wrap around the drum.  Yes it will change as the rope 
unwinds from the drum but for the sake of argument, let's use the max 
circumference as a constant.  Measure the distance from the drum to the furling 
line cleat, taking into account any guide blocks or rollers that the rope needs 
to pass through.
Now furl the jib taking care to count the number of turns on the furler from 
fully deployed to fully furled.

So the length calculation will be:
Circumference of rope on drum times the number of furler turns plus distance of 
drum to cleat plus 7-10' or so extra rope to allow line to be handled in 
different spots of the cockpit.

Depending on conditions such as wind and jib sheet tension while furling, my 
jib can be furled either really tight or rather loose and sloppy. Tight almost 
always requires extra turns on the furler.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1983  Landfall 35
Padanaram MA
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 21, 2016, at 1:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> From: Indigo via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Indigo 
> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
> 
> I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation 
> between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the 
> diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the 
> line required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will 
> be potentially very different. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> > On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > plus the foot length (24')
> 
> 
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> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Port ring comes down and hooks on the stbd horn and vice versa.  Don't try
to imagine the dogbone as coming down and hooking on both horns.  You can
make your own dogbone easy with a piece of amsteel and 2 rings.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 21, 2016 1:54 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ah ha,  thanks for the link and picture in it.   Dogbone .
> On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
>> On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single.
>>> On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep
 the boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
 Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots,
 and you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
 pressure on the rudder.

 You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart
 in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's
 stiffness.
 That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.

 Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
 measure.
 If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding
 "dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce
 the possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].

 Give a report on your 1st sail.

 Pete W.
 Siren Song
 '91 C 30-2 #170
 Deltaville, VA




 Message: 6
 Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
 From: Allan Rheaume 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
 Message-ID:
 <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
 overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.

 Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90


 ___

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 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!


>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Ah ha,  thanks for the link and picture in it.   Dogbone .
On Jun 21, 2016 11:49 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
> On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single.
>> On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep
>>> the boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
>>> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and
>>> you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
>>> pressure on the rudder.
>>>
>>> You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart
>>> in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's
>>> stiffness.
>>> That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.
>>>
>>> Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
>>> measure.
>>> If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding
>>> "dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce
>>> the possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
>>>
>>> Give a report on your 1st sail.
>>>
>>> Pete W.
>>> Siren Song
>>> '91 C 30-2 #170
>>> Deltaville, VA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Message: 6
>>> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
>>> From: Allan Rheaume 
>>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
>>> Message-ID:
>>> <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
>>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>>
>>> Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
>>> overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
>>>
>>> Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

https://goo.gl/images/SFjSqC
On Jun 21, 2016 12:18 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single.
> On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the
>> boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
>> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and
>> you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
>> pressure on the rudder.
>>
>> You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart
>> in the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's
>> stiffness.
>> That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.
>>
>> Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
>> measure.
>> If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding
>> "dogbones" to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce
>> the possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
>>
>> Give a report on your 1st sail.
>>
>> Pete W.
>> Siren Song
>> '91 C 30-2 #170
>> Deltaville, VA
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
>> From: Allan Rheaume 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
>> Message-ID:
>> <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
>> overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
>>
>> Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sounds like calculus to me… yuck…   :^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 21, 2016, at 12:25 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> 
> From: Indigo via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
> Cc: Indigo >
> Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
> 
> I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation 
> between the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the 
> diameter of the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the 
> line required for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will 
> be potentially very different. 
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Since my boat is along way away... My pictures I took show:
Port side: jib halyard,  outhaul,  reef 1, and one line in the clutch that
isn't labeled.

Starboard
Two 3 pack clutches :Boom Vang,  Cunningham, and the rest I can't read of
which one is empty.
On Jun 21, 2016 11:24 AM, "allen via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hey, all you 30-2 owners.
>
> I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?
>
> Allen Miles
>
> *From:* kelly petew via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* kelly petew 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??
>
> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the
> boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and
> you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
> pressure on the rudder.
>
> You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in
> the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
> That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.
>
> Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
> measure.
> If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones"
> to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the
> possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
>
> Give a report on your 1st sail.
>
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> '91 C 30-2 #170
> Deltaville, VA
>
>
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
> From: Allan Rheaume 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
> Message-ID:
> <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
> overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
>
> Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
>
> --
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Shouldn't it also change as the drum wrap gets thicker?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Indigo via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Indigo 
 Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2016 6:48 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Roller Furling Line
   
I may be totally wrong, but I don't think there is a direct correlation between 
the length of the foot and length of furling line. The marker the diameter of 
the drum, the longer the circumference and thus the longer the line required 
for one rotation - but the circumference of a roll of sail will be potentially 
very different. 

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Jun 12, 2016, at 07:01, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> plus the foot length (24')


___

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greatly appreciated!


   ___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[allen via CnC-List]

Hey, all you 30-2 owners.

I've got to ask what sail controls for head and main do you have?

Allen Miles


From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:12 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: kelly petew 
Subject: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??


I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the boat 
on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll 
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the 
rudder.
 
You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in the 
photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
 
Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent measure.
If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
 
Give a report on your 1st sail.
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-2 #170
Deltaville, VA
 
 
 
 
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
From: Allan Rheaume 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
Message-ID:
<814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90







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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

I sewed dogbones for my first and second reefs a few weeks ago...i LOVE them!  
My tack would inevitably come off the reef hook when I was hooking directly 
onto the sail grommet.

Mike
Atacama 33ii. 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Humm,  what's a dog bone?  I'll be sailing 90% single.
On Jun 21, 2016 10:13 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the
> boat on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.
> Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and
> you'll want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce
> pressure on the rudder.
>
> You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in
> the photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
> That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.
>
> Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent
> measure.
> If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones"
> to your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the
> possibility of a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
>
> Give a report on your 1st sail.
>
> Pete W.
> Siren Song
> '91 C 30-2 #170
> Deltaville, VA
>
>
>
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
> From: Allan Rheaume 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
> Message-ID:
> <814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting
> overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true.
>
> Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List C 30-2 -when to reef??

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

I, too, carry a 140 genoa, and reef around 12 knots.  I like to  keep the boat 
on its "feet".  So, 10 to 15 degree heel is good for me.  
Nervous or not, you'll start to feel weather helm at 10 to 12 knots, and you'll 
want to reef [the main 1st] to keep up your speed and reduce pressure on the 
rudder.
 
You are correct that this boat is "tender".  I believe there is a chart in the 
photoalbum archives that documents this as well as the 30-1's stiffness.
That said, the boat carries a lot of sail area, and it's fast IMO.  
 
Also, I single-hand a lot and typically start with a reef as a prudent measure.
If you don't already have them on your main, I recommend adding "dogbones" to 
your reef points, to make reefing quick and easy [and reduce the possibility of 
a rip to your sail; they are cheap].
 
Give a report on your 1st sail.
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-2 #170
Deltaville, VA
 
 
 
 
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2016 10:25:31 + (UTC)
From: Allan Rheaume 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
Message-ID:
<814944704.1736603.1466504731991.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Alan,
 I have Blue Sea panel, instead of a 1-both-2 Perko switch, so
disconnecting the house batteries is not an option.

Gary
S/V Kaykarah

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:21 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you switch between starting battery and house batteries, and your
> master switch isn't a make before break, you can have the issue you're
> referring to.  In other words, when moving to a different switch position,
> the switch should momentarily go from starting to both to house.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

If you switch between starting battery and house batteries, and your master
switch isn't a make before break, you can have the issue you're referring
to.  In other words, when moving to a different switch position, the switch
should momentarily go from starting to both to house.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

The consensus seems to be that turning off the key did not kill my
alternator and it was just a coincidence that the problem showed up shortly
after turning off the switch.  I have no way of disconnecting my batteries
from the alternator.  I guess it just "died".  Thanks for all your
collective wisdom.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 11:12 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I shut off the ignition all the time, have done for years...makes less
> beeper noise when I actually turn off the motor, but it is always at idle
> and never with a big load on the alt. I did install a Perko battery switch
> that has an alternator field disconnect in it so that if the battery switch
> gets turned off it doesn't fry the alternator, but that really should have
> nothing to do with the ignition switch.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I shut off the ignition all the time, have done for years...makes less
beeper noise when I actually turn off the motor, but it is always at idle
and never with a big load on the alt. I did install a Perko battery switch
that has an alternator field disconnect in it so that if the battery switch
gets turned off it doesn't fry the alternator, but that really should have
nothing to do with the ignition switch.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

I don’t know how ignition switch would disconnect alternator output form a 
battery?  You need to check that.  Perhaps ignition switch shuts off power to 
the regulator, but event at that alternator should not be outputting current 
that has nowhere to go.  It  does sound more like someone moved the house 
select switch to off while engine was running.   

 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

Newport, RI

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 10:25 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Hi Steve,

 Perfect explanation!  That makes sense to me.  I never understood why 
turning off the key would create the reverse voltage, and perhaps it was just a 
coincidence that the alternator was noticed to be dead a week or so after the 
key was turned off.  I have no disconnect between the alternator and my house 
bank, so it's a mystery why my relatively new alternator died.  Thank you!

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah




~~~_/)~~

 

On Tue, Jun 21, 2016 at 9:42 AM, S Thomas via CnC-List  
wrote:

Question #1. 

Failure mechanism:

 

When an alternator is running and delivering current, the current through 
the stator windings creates a magnetic field proportional to the amount of 
current flowing. The current varies with the resistance of the load, and if 
there was no voltage regulator control of the rotor current (and therefore 
rotor magnetism), the current and stator voltage would vary also with the speed 
of the rotor. In other words, the voltage induced in a wire by a changing 
magnetic field depends on the strength of the field and on the rate of the 
change. When the stator current in an alternator is suddenly interrupted, the 
magnetic field that the current created collapses suddenly too. The lines of 
force in the collapsing magnetic field move through the stator windings and 
induce a voltage opposite the that which had produced the current in the first 
place. The collapsing field dumps a fixed lump of energy into the stator 
windings that wants to go through the reverse biased rectifier diodes. Since 
the diodes present a high resistance in that direction, the voltage builds to 
above the diodes peak inverse voltage rating, at which point the diode starts 
conducting heavily, and the energy is dissipated through and in the diodes 
themselves. If there is enough energy stored in the stator windings, the diode 
is destroyed. Note that this is more likely to happen the larger the current 
flowing (i.e. the greater the load on the alternator) when the switch was 
opened. 

   The above description fits what happens when a switch in the output circuit 
of an alternator is opened.  

 

   The failure you describe is less common I think, because I have never heard 
of it, but it would have to depend on a similar mechanism due to the fast 
collapse of the current through the rotor. I have gotten away with doing that, 
shutting off the "ignition", on several occasions, but I would never do it 
deliberately. My first thought is that the risk relative to size of the 
alternator load might be reversed. If there were sufficient load on the 
alternator then the induced emf (electro motive force) might dissipate through 
the load before the voltage built up enough to kill the rectifier diodes. Seems 
to me that there ought to be a greater risk to the voltage regulator in 
shutting off the "ignition" than to the output rectifier diodes.  

 

 

Steve Thomas

C MKIII

Port Stanley, ON

- Original Message - 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List   

To: C   List 

Cc: Gary Russell   

Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 07:36

Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator. 

 

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

 

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

 

Thanks,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA  


~~~_/)~~

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Stus-List Reefing

[Barry Lenoble via CnC-List]

Hi Guys,

I have heard the expression 'if you think it's time to reef, then reef' many
times. I basically agree, buy many new sailors don't realize there are many
things you should do BEFORE reefing.

In light air (5 kts) you want a very full sail shape to capture as much
power as possible. The halyards should be soft so that the leading edge
(luff) of the sail is not tight. The outhaul of the main should be eased so
the bottom of the sail has a very full shape (deep chord). If you have an
adjustable backstay it should be eased so that the headstay doesn't sag, but
the main is very full.

Setting the rig like this allows the sails to collect the most power from
the wind. As the wind increases you will start to be overpowered. Now it's
time to start depowering the rig. 

As the wind build to 10 kts you need to flatten the sails so they don't
generate as much power. Increase the halyard tension to pull out any
wrinkles along the luff. Increase the outhaul tension to decrease the draft
of the sail. The flatter the sail the less power it generates. If you can,
increase backstay tension to flatten the main some more.

If the wind continues to build you can continue to depower the rig. If you
are at max halyard and outhaul tension, and still heeling too much, you can
now lower the traveler for the main to spill some wind. For the headsail you
can move the sheet lead (car) aft to allow the top of the sail to spill wind
while the bottom generates power.

If have done all (or at least some) of these things, and the boat is still
heeling too much, THEN it's time to reef the sails. 

Making those adjustments allows me to keep my boat powered up from 5 kts to
15 kts of wind. If I am seeing 15 kts consistently I will roll up my
headsail from full (135) to a 110 or 100 (I have two stripes on the sail to
let me know the size). Once that isn't enough I reef the main. 

Hope this helps.

Barry

Barry Lenoble
leno...@optonline.net
Deep Blue C, C 110
Mt. Sinai, NY


 
> On Jun 21, 2016, at 00:18, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List
 wrote:
> 
> I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.
My 30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it
yet.  I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.
> 
> When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe
the 30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not
sure what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit
nervous, but not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.
> 
> I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light
wind and moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to
sail flat.
> 
> What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it
is based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort
6/7 in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great
time with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to
the 5 foot less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?
***


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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

Question #1. 
Failure mechanism:

When an alternator is running and delivering current, the current through 
the stator windings creates a magnetic field proportional to the amount of 
current flowing. The current varies with the resistance of the load, and if 
there was no voltage regulator control of the rotor current (and therefore 
rotor magnetism), the current and stator voltage would vary also with the speed 
of the rotor. In other words, the voltage induced in a wire by a changing 
magnetic field depends on the strength of the field and on the rate of the 
change. When the stator current in an alternator is suddenly interrupted, the 
magnetic field that the current created collapses suddenly too. The lines of 
force in the collapsing magnetic field move through the stator windings and 
induce a voltage opposite the that which had produced the current in the first 
place. The collapsing field dumps a fixed lump of energy into the stator 
windings that wants to go through the reverse biased rectifier diodes. Since 
the diodes present a high resistance in that direction, the voltage builds to 
above the diodes peak inverse voltage rating, at which point the diode starts 
conducting heavily, and the energy is dissipated through and in the diodes 
themselves. If there is enough energy stored in the stator windings, the diode 
is destroyed. Note that this is more likely to happen the larger the current 
flowing (i.e. the greater the load on the alternator) when the switch was 
opened. 
   The above description fits what happens when a switch in the output circuit 
of an alternator is opened.  

   The failure you describe is less common I think, because I have never heard 
of it, but it would have to depend on a similar mechanism due to the fast 
collapse of the current through the rotor. I have gotten away with doing that, 
shutting off the "ignition", on several occasions, but I would never do it 
deliberately. My first thought is that the risk relative to size of the 
alternator load might be reversed. If there were sufficient load on the 
alternator then the induced emf (electro motive force) might dissipate through 
the load before the voltage built up enough to kill the rectifier diodes. Seems 
to me that there ought to be a greater risk to the voltage regulator in 
shutting off the "ignition" than to the output rectifier diodes.  


Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  To: C List 
  Cc: Gary Russell 
  Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 07:36
  Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure


  Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off 
while the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) 
and it fried the diodes in the alternator.


  Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?


  Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think 
it  was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?


  Thanks,
  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA  

  ~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would say that you should reef before you get uneasy  (or when your 
passengers get uneasy  (including the most important Admiral )).
You will quickly find that too much heel would not help. You would be going 
sideways,instead of forward. And the only benefit would be that you are 
uncomfortable.
The old good seamanship rule is to do all what is necessary, before it is 
necessary.
Good luck
Marek


Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.

 Original message 
From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
Date: 2016/06/21  00:19  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Lorne Serpa  
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef? 

I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.
My 30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it
yet.  I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.

When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe
the 30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not
sure what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit
nervous, but not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.

I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind
and moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail
flat.

What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it is
based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort
6/7 in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great
time with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to
the 5 foot less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

No idea on #1.  My “ignition” switch was inadvertently shut off the other day 
with no consequences.  The switch has nothing to do with the alternator.  It 
simply provides power to the starter button, fuel gauge, hour meter, tachometer 
and oil/temperature alarms.  Switching the batteries off while the engine is 
running will fry the alternator diodes.

 

For #2, check out: http://www.balmar.net/?page_id=15295.  It’s simply a 
packaged Zener diode.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 7:37 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator.

 

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

 

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

 

Thanks,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA  


~~~_/)~~

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Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[allen via CnC-List]

Lorne,

It all depends  What kind of sails are you carrying and how new they are.  
Septima originally came with a North Dacron 130 and main, both racing quality, 
and a full set of sail controls.  We quickly learned that with her beam and big 
butt that 18 degrees heel was near optimal.

We also learned that keeping her on her feet was achievable with the sail 
controls long before we had to reef the main.  With a good mechanical backstay 
adjuster ( I have the original for sale ) and multipart Cunningham you could 
flatten the main and take some sag out of the headstay.  Voila, back on her 
feet.  We used to race in a shallow bay (6 - 8 feet MLLW ) where the local wind 
picked up to 18 -20 kts in the early PM.  We never reefed, just used sail 
controls.

Later I converted to an Ulmer Tape Drive 140.  Sail weighed half of the North 
130 and did not stretch.  Weight aloft went way down and ability to carry sail 
as wind increased went way up.  However, by then we were on the eastern portion 
of LI Sound and the winds weren't so much.  Big Genoa was great for powering up 
through the chop.  Main still didn't require a reef.

Lesson learned early on:  Genoa is for power, main is for steerage.  Septima's 
wheel has a leather cover I put there.  Seams are placed such that rudder has 4 
degrees incidence when seams are TDC  (easy to measure when on the hard).  
Helm's job is to place appropriate seam TDC and communicate "feel" to main 
trimmer ( on Septima, me using Harkin Windward Car setup. )  If helm starts to 
load up, I drop the car an inch, if it lightens I raise car an inch, keeping 
the mainsail trim untouched.  Boat is fast, wake is smooth and other, larger 
boats wonder how you're going so fast.  The foils on our boats are symmetrical 
versions of well tested low speed aircraft shapes and you want to keep the flow 
attached.  The boat will "lift" to windward once you get the feel of her.

I now have a new UK 140 tape drive so we'll see how it does.  Haven't sailed it 
yet, but it is the engine so I expect we'll easily get to hull speed.

My impressions:  30-2s are initially tender, then stiffen.  Keeping the rudder 
in the water is good.  Oh, and surfing down wind is a lot of fun too.  We made 
up for a lot of upwind mistakes by overtaking boats down wind.

Best of luck.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?


I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.  My 
30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet.  
I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.


When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe the 
30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, but 
not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.


I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind and 
moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail flat.


What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it is 
based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 
in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great time 
with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 foot 
less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?







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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

1.   Shutting off the key should NOT have this effect. Something is wrong. 
The alternator output should not be switched through the ignition whatsoever!



2.   Zap-Stops are 15 volt zener diodes that cost about $2.00 or so. 
Depending on what happens, they can eventually catch on fire or melt, thus they 
are no longer sold. I melted one and the replacement has been good for about 15 
years now.

Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 07:37
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator.

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

Thanks,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
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Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

If you have an inclinometer, 22 degrees was the number we always used as max 
heel for efficiency. If you are heeling more than that, and you can't get the 
boat on her feet by easing the main a bit, reef. 
Our boats sail pretty well under just jib, so consider just dropping the main 
completely, if that seems easier...as long as you're not racing.
As my old dad always used to say, "the best time to reef is when you first 
think about it." We will often just go to two reefs on Peregrine, figuring if 
there's enough breeze for one reef, there's enough for two!

Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jun 21, 2016, at 00:18, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.  My 
> 30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet.  
> I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.
> 
> When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe the 
> 30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
> what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, 
> but not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.
> 
> I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind 
> and moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail 
> flat.
> 
> What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it is 
> based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 
> in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great time 
> with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 
> foot less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off
while the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop
lever) and it fried the diodes in the alternator.

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I
think it  was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the
event someone shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I
bought it from is now out of business and I can't seem to find it
anywhere.  Does anyone know how I can protect the alternator from this
happening again?

Thanks,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~_/)~~
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

Hi Lorne, I carry a 140% headsail on my 30-2. I usually start getting 
overpowered upwind at around 12 knots true. 

Al RheaumeDrumroll 30-2 #90


  From: Lorne Serpa via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Lorne Serpa 
 Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 12:18 AM
 Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?
   
I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15.  My 
30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet.  
I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July.

When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed?  I believe the 
30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
what to believe.  I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, but 
not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month.

I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind and 
moves well.  I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail flat.

What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII?  I fully understand that it is 
based on skill.  In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 
in Corpus Christi Bay, TX.  The boat was a 35' Benatou.  We had a great time 
with no worries.  Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 foot 
less, less beam, and probably much less ballast?


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef?

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Lorne - reef before you get nervous :) My ASA school taught if you are 
questioning whether you should reef, you already should have :) It's a matter 
of developing confidence with your boat's behavior under different sails and 
trims. 

I started sailing my new-to-me 30-1 just this year, and haven't gotten nervous 
or way overpowered yet - haven't sailed reefed yet - but I haven't seen winds 
higher than Beaufort 5 yet (the one time I was out in Beaufort 5 conditions I 
was under main only). Saturday night I had it heeling ~15+ degrees in Beaufort 
4 winds under full main and 130% genoa, and was still several degrees of heel / 
inches of freeboard from putting a rail in the water. I was having a blast 
learning how my boat handles, but my wife didn't like it :) I've felt some 
weather helm on my 30-1 a few times, but have never felt like it was going to 
round up or heel harder over. It's pretty stiff. But I have no idea how a 30-2 
feels. 

I'm impressed that you wouldn't reef your ASA school's Beneteau 35 until 
Beaufort 6 or 7. I've seen boats get overpowered, and their skippers reef, at 
lower wind speeds e.g. 18-20 knots which is Beaufort 5. 

If you're interested there is some introductory discussion of boat stability 
and shortening sail in 
https://www.amazon.com/Yacht-Design-According-Perry-Shaped/dp/007146557X . Beam 
is important to initial stability, but so is the shape of the hull. I suspect 
the 30-1's hull section is a factor in its stiffness i.e. initial stability. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Lorne Serpa"  
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2016 10:18:17 PM 
Subject: Stus-List 1988 30MkII. When to reef? 

I've been sailing for about 1.5 years on a 13' hobbie and WW Potter P15. My 
30MkII is my 1st real boat of any size and weight. I have not sailed it yet. 
I'll be heading out for my 1st sail about 1 July. 

When do you 30MkII owners start reefing above what wind speed? I believe the 
30MkII is "tender", but have also read it is pretty "stiff" so I'm not sure 
what to believe. I'm not a fan of heeling yet, gets me a tid bit nervous, but 
not as much since taking ASA 101,103/104 last month. 

I have heard the 30MkII is pretty good carrying a lot of sail in light wind and 
moves well. I just needs to be reefed earlier than many boats to sail flat. 

What is considered decent wind for a 30MkII? I fully understand that it is 
based on skill. In my ASA classes, we put in a reef in at about Beaufort 6/7 in 
Corpus Christi Bay, TX. The boat was a 35' Benatou. We had a great time with no 
worries. Will a 30MkII be similar, or very different due to the 5 foot less, 
less beam, and probably much less ballast? 


___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!