Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Rod Randow via CnC-List]

Learned this at a talk at the Annapolis boat show. I have occasionally and
seen others use this docking method – my slip has pilings and very short
finger pier.

A line at least 2 boat lengths and a long finger pier. Attached to the
mid-ship cleat, the line is led outside the lifelines to the crew/wife
standing on deck who forms a long U shaped loop. The remainder of the line
is then fed outside the lifelines to the cockpit area and brought in under
the lifelines to a winch/cleat. As the boat approaches the finger pier the
crew with a leg of the U in each hand and the arms spread wide, DROPS the
line on the DOCK so that the U loop surround the outer-most finger pier
cleat. The helmperson adjusts the line and rudder to stop the boat at the
appropriate position. The crew can drop the line/loop standing anywhere –
from the bow to the cockpit wherever is the closest approach to the finger
pier cleat. The engine is kept in slow forward. Now with the boat held
along side the finger pier and stopped in the proper position, the
crew/helmperson STEPS off the boat and attaches all the lines. The engine
is then turned off.

Depending on stanchion positions, a toe rail snatch block might be needed
before being fed to winch. Again depending on deck equipment, another
configuration is to place a toe rail block just aft the mid-ship cleat
(loop between midship cleat and block) and then back to cockpit. This
mid-ship loop method can also be used to  “parallel park” on the leeward
side of a long dock (sometimes winch cranking is required).

For single-handing the helmperson must puzzle out how and where to
drop/throw the loop over the cleat. Practice throwing the loop – arms
parallel at start but spread wide at release. Not easy with lifelines.

Rod Randow
C 33-1

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 11:59 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
> I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
> pilings.  Whoopee.
>
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
> from the starboard side.
>
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking
> stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
> neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
> looking at a working boatyard.
>
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls
> the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to
> port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The
> wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
> outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
> is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
> secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
> this process but we manage it.
>
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
> myself.
>
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rudder repair?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

David;

 

Let me tell you about my experience and why I recommend you opt for a new
rudder.

 

I had a grounding back in 2004 when the boat was new to me. Towboat/US
proceeded to tow me off by pulling me over the shoal and I ended up with a
bent rudder post.

 

The yard got approval to remove glass & foam from the rudder, heat the shaft
and straighten it, and then reglass the rudder blade.

 

Fast forward to 2008. I was in a distance race (and ironically enough about
2 miles off the same yard and Towboat facility) when there was a bang and I
lost steering. Thought it was a broken cable or idler sheave but could find
no problem. Dove on the boat and there was no rudder or shaft. just a very
sharp ring of stainless protruding a few inches below the hull. 

 

When the boat was towed in and hauled, it looked like mice had been nibbling
on the rudder shaft. My shaft was made from 3" schedule 80 stainless tubing
- which is over 3" OD and has a wall thickness of about .25". Diagnosis was
crevice corrosion - so the repair was not covered by the insurance.

 

(Parenthetically, I earned that the 38 1 & 2's almost all had the rudder
shaft from 3" schedule 80 tube, and some of the 38LFs used a shaft from
solid bar stock of the same OD while some had 3.5" schedule 80 tube.
Southshore made a rudder for a local 38LF that had lost the skin and foam
from the blade, sent him a rudder with the wrong shaft and had to make him a
second rudder. (I used the solid rudder shaft from the failed rudder for the
rudder I had made for my boat.)

 

Talked to metallurgist in the engineering department at the forklift
manufacturer where I worked. According to him, you reduce the strength of
stainless steel up to 40% when you bend it, reduce it further when you heat
it, and reduce it further when you rebend it. Oh, and you also reduce the
corrosion resistance. The yard had apparently not completely sealed the new
glass work around the straightened rudder shaft and it took just 4 years in
the brackish water around here for the shaft to corrode to the point of
breaking off.

 

I sent my new-to-me solid rudder shaft to Foss Foam in Florida, and they
built me a new rudder. It was surprisingly reasonable - a bit over $3K IIRC
using the shaft I supplied- and the lowest of the several quotes I got. 

 

That's my sad story - and why I think you should get a new rudder and not a
repair.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 30, 2018 11:47 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair?

 

I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it was
damaged in a grounding on a reef.  The shaft is bent and they are proposing
to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass.  It was described to
me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal.  He said they used
heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still attached to the
rudder.  He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as bent worse than
mine and came out fine.  I have been looking into having a replacement
built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so I am
wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue of
repair.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Josh;

 

The camshaft driven lift pump is sort of a Yanmar thing. Most Cummins, Perkins, 
Beta, Universal, Mitsubishi, etc. engines built in the last 15-20 years (and 
the newer high pressure common rail Yanmars) use an electric lift pump. Just 
like your fuel injected car engine, it is necessary to pressurize the HP 
injection pump prestart to ensure the reservoir in the pump is full to get 
proper injector volume.

 

If the seals in the high pressure pump are leaking, you can get fuel into the 
engine oil. But you’ll notice hard starting, increased vibration, and rough 
engine operation long before you see much fuel in the oil pan.

 

The most likely source of fuel in the oil is a combination of worn rings and 
faulty injectors. The later can cause the former, BTW. Excess fuel injected can 
remove the film of oil that seals the rings and “wash out” the cylinder walls 
causing loss of compression and wear of the rings and cylinder wall. The 
excess, unburned, fuel gets into the oil. The resulting fuel/oil mix being 
splashed or forced into the cylinder by excessive pressure in the oil pan is 
the likely cause of a runaway engine.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 8:09 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

 

To build on Neil's thoughts: diesels typically have an approved lube oil 
consumption rate - they burn it.  So over time the level should go down... 
Slowly.  The GM, QM, and HM series engines (at least) have 2 fatal flaws in the 
fuel system.  

-The first and most likely is the lift pump.  It is a diaphragm pump the has a 
drive lever the sticks in the side of the engine block.  If the diagram 
develops a leak then fuel can leak into the oil sump.  

-The second is the HP fuel pump.  Clearances can wear in the pump and leak fuel 
into the sump.  

You'll see the sump level increase in both cases and you might smell fuel in 
the oil.  If you put a drop of oil on a paper towel you can observe a halo of 
fuel develop.  The fuel thins the oil potentially damaging the bearings and 
cylinders.  Neglected long enough and accumulating high enough concentrations 
it might cause a fire or a runaway diesel. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Bruce;

 

If you have a Beta, Universal, or Westerbeke engine, there is an oil extraction 
hose routed from the back of the oil pan (the low point) to the front of the 
engine that you use for removing the oil. On the Betas, there is a pump 
connected to that hose (which is a really nice feature). I have a Universal, 
and drain the hose into an oil change pan; but you can also connect it to a 
FLOCS (Fast Lube Oil Change) pump to extract the oil. So you basically get all 
the old oil out.

 

My 36HP Universal M35B is a marinized Kubota 4 cylinder engine (and the 4 
cylinder 35 HP Beta uses the same base Kubota engine). The dip stick on my 
Universal is different than the dipstick on the Kubota tractors. Something I 
noticed when using a rental Kubota tractor loader backhoe for a landscaping 
project.

 

An when changing oil, be sure to determine if you should add the volume of the 
filter you just changed to the listed engine capacity. I found  that for my 
engine, putting 4 quarts of oil in after a change (rather than the 3.5 qts 
listed capacity) fills the filter and brings the oil level to slightly over the 
top mark on the dipstick.

 

YMMV

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 5:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

 

Ok, let's think about this, and I'm asking a question, not disagreeing.  If one 
sucks out the oil on an engine at an angle, then there is likely a pool of old 
oil left in the rear of the engine, so you don't get all of it out..  Do you 
add back the full spec amount per the manual, then be comfortable that it's 
right based on the new, presumed correct dipstick level?

 

After all this time, why haven't we been told about this before, or even 
advised of it by folks like Beta who specialize in marine engines?  

 

What is the difference in dipstick readings that we would be looking at?

 

I've always been told, (and tend to agree) that overfilling oil is worse than 
running at the low end of the full range.

 

That said my dad had an old jet boat with a gas engine that would take a bit to 
get up on plane, and if the oil wasn't kept really full, the engine oil pump 
would suck air and it would lose oil pressure...

 

I'm very interested in the owners thoughts on this subject,

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 7/31/18 2:04 PM (GMT-06:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke 

 

Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an angle. And also 
most come from a tractor industry, where they were designed to be used flat. 
This means that in many (most?) cases, the dipstick shows an incorrect level of 
oil (usually lower than it should be). You have to find out what is the right 
level on the dipstick in your particular engine. Sucking out or draining the 
oil is certainly one way of figuring this out.

 

Marek

 

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Della Barba, Joe 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

 

Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really have.

Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

To build on Neil's thoughts: diesels typically have an approved lube oil
consumption rate - they burn it.  So over time the level should go down...
Slowly.  The GM, QM, and HM series engines (at least) have 2 fatal flaws in
the fuel system.
-The first and most likely is the lift pump.  It is a diaphragm pump the
has a drive lever the sticks in the side of the engine block.  If the
diagram develops a leak then fuel can leak into the oil sump.
-The second is the HP fuel pump.  Clearances can wear in the pump and leak
fuel into the sump.
You'll see the sump level increase in both cases and you might smell fuel
in the oil.  If you put a drop of oil on a paper towel you can observe a
halo of fuel develop.  The fuel thins the oil potentially damaging the
bearings and cylinders.  Neglected long enough and accumulating high enough
concentrations it might cause a fire or a runaway diesel.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 7:04 PM schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I think you are all overthinking this.  Most dipsticks have a full to add
> range that is nearly a quart of oil.  The engine oil pump will work quite
> fine as long as the oil level remains above the pump pickup.
>
> I agree with Dennis.  Most dipsticks are mid engine.
>
> My 2010 Ford Powerstroke Diesel 1 ton is well know to make oil due to the
> Diesel Particulate Filter regeneration cycle pumping raw diesel fuel into
> the exhaust stroke to burn soot in the filter.  It is common for the 16
> quart oil pan to drain up to 24 quarts out.  This mostly happens when the
> DPF Regeneration cycle is interrupted.  It is just something to watch.
>
> I put so few hours on the engine that I must admit that I don't check it
> more than two or three times a year.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028
> "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
>
> On 7/31/2018 5:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> In my opinion, the dipstick rules.  On my Universal 25XPB, the dipstick is
> located in the center of the block lengthwise.  So, dead level, tilted
> front up or tilted front down, the dipstick should still read close to the
> same.
>
> On a related note, the manual for my 25XPB specifies the following maximum
> angles:
>
> Installation 14 degrees (tilt up or down)
> Rotation  25 degrees
>
> That implies you could operate the 25XPB at 25 degrees of heel.  Remember,
> many marine engines are marinized tractor engines.  Tractors are designed
> to operate on a certain amount of side slope.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 4:37 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ok, let's think about this, and I'm asking a question, not disagreeing.
>> If one sucks out the oil on an engine at an angle, then there is likely a
>> pool of old oil left in the rear of the engine, so you don't get all of it
>> out..  Do you add back the full spec amount per the manual, then be
>> comfortable that it's right based on the new, presumed correct dipstick
>> level?
>>
>> After all this time, why haven't we been told about this before, or even
>> advised of it by folks like Beta who specialize in marine engines?
>>
>> What is the difference in dipstick readings that we would be looking at?
>>
>> I've always been told, (and tend to agree) that overfilling oil is worse
>> than running at the low end of the full range.
>>
>> That said my dad had an old jet boat with a gas engine that would take a
>> bit to get up on plane, and if the oil wasn't kept really full, the engine
>> oil pump would suck air and it would lose oil pressure...
>>
>> I'm very interested in the owners thoughts on this subject,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>>
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/31/18 2:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
>>
>> Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an angle.
>> And also most come from a tractor industry, where they were designed to be
>> used flat. This means that in many (most?) cases, the dipstick shows an
>> incorrect level of oil (usually lower than it should be). You have to find
>> out what is the right level on the dipstick in your particular engine.
>> Sucking out or draining the oil is certainly one way of figuring this out.
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
>>
>> Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really
>> have.
>>
>> Joe
>> Coquina
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> 

Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[schiller via CnC-List]

I think you are all overthinking this.  Most dipsticks have a full to 
add range that is nearly a quart of oil. The engine oil pump will work 
quite fine as long as the oil level remains above the pump pickup.


I agree with Dennis.  Most dipsticks are mid engine.

My 2010 Ford Powerstroke Diesel 1 ton is well know to make oil due to 
the Diesel Particulate Filter regeneration cycle pumping raw diesel fuel 
into the exhaust stroke to burn soot in the filter. It is common for the 
16 quart oil pan to drain up to 24 quarts out.  This mostly happens when 
the DPF Regeneration cycle is interrupted.  It is just something to watch.


I put so few hours on the engine that I must admit that I don't check it 
more than two or three times a year.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 7/31/2018 5:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
In my opinion, the dipstick rules.  On my Universal 25XPB, the 
dipstick is located in the center of the block lengthwise.  So, dead 
level, tilted front up or tilted front down, the dipstick should still 
read close to the same.


On a related note, the manual for my 25XPB specifies the following 
maximum angles:


Installation 14 degrees (tilt up or down)
Rotation  25 degrees

That implies you could operate the 25XPB at 25 degrees of heel.  
Remember, many marine engines are marinized tractor engines.  Tractors 
are designed to operate on a certain amount of side slope.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 4:37 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Ok, let's think about this, and I'm asking a question, not
disagreeing.  If one sucks out the oil on an engine at an angle,
then there is likely a pool of old oil left in the rear of the
engine, so you don't get all of it out..  Do you add back the full
spec amount per the manual, then be comfortable that it's right
based on the new, presumed correct dipstick level?

After all this time, why haven't we been told about this before,
or even advised of it by folks like Beta who specialize in marine
engines?

What is the difference in dipstick readings that we would be
looking at?

I've always been told, (and tend to agree) that overfilling oil is
worse than running at the low end of the full range.

That said my dad had an old jet boat with a gas engine that would
take a bit to get up on plane, and if the oil wasn't kept really
full, the engine oil pump would suck air and it would lose oil
pressure...

I'm very interested in the owners thoughts on this subject,

Bruce Whitmore

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/31/18 2:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic mailto:dziedzi...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an
angle. And also most come from a tractor industry, where they were
designed to be used flat. This means that in many (most?) cases,
the dipstick shows an incorrect level of oil (usually lower than
it should be). You have to find out what is the right level on the
dipstick in your particular engine. Sucking out or draining the
oil is certainly one way of figuring this out.
Marek
*From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you
really have.

Joe
Coquina

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --

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the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 





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Thanks everyone for supporting this 

Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

In my opinion, the dipstick rules.  On my Universal 25XPB, the dipstick is
located in the center of the block lengthwise.  So, dead level, tilted
front up or tilted front down, the dipstick should still read close to the
same.

On a related note, the manual for my 25XPB specifies the following maximum
angles:

Installation 14 degrees (tilt up or down)
Rotation  25 degrees

That implies you could operate the 25XPB at 25 degrees of heel.  Remember,
many marine engines are marinized tractor engines.  Tractors are designed
to operate on a certain amount of side slope.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 4:37 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, let's think about this, and I'm asking a question, not disagreeing.
> If one sucks out the oil on an engine at an angle, then there is likely a
> pool of old oil left in the rear of the engine, so you don't get all of it
> out..  Do you add back the full spec amount per the manual, then be
> comfortable that it's right based on the new, presumed correct dipstick
> level?
>
> After all this time, why haven't we been told about this before, or even
> advised of it by folks like Beta who specialize in marine engines?
>
> What is the difference in dipstick readings that we would be looking at?
>
> I've always been told, (and tend to agree) that overfilling oil is worse
> than running at the low end of the full range.
>
> That said my dad had an old jet boat with a gas engine that would take a
> bit to get up on plane, and if the oil wasn't kept really full, the engine
> oil pump would suck air and it would lose oil pressure...
>
> I'm very interested in the owners thoughts on this subject,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/31/18 2:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
>
> Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an angle. And
> also most come from a tractor industry, where they were designed to be used
> flat. This means that in many (most?) cases, the dipstick shows an
> incorrect level of oil (usually lower than it should be). You have to find
> out what is the right level on the dipstick in your particular engine.
> Sucking out or draining the oil is certainly one way of figuring this out.
>
> Marek
>
>
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke
>
> Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really
> have.
>
> Joe
> Coquina
>
> ___
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> YQeNkBDgvu9r4zpxU3J3qeg81gpjNqj9MeB4WfAuiZY%3Dreserved=0
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Ok, let's think about this, and I'm asking a question, not disagreeing.  If one 
sucks out the oil on an engine at an angle, then there is likely a pool of old 
oil left in the rear of the engine, so you don't get all of it out..  Do you 
add back the full spec amount per the manual, then be comfortable that it's 
right based on the new, presumed correct dipstick level?
After all this time, why haven't we been told about this before, or even 
advised of it by folks like Beta who specialize in marine engines?  
What is the difference in dipstick readings that we would be looking at?
I've always been told, (and tend to agree) that overfilling oil is worse than 
running at the low end of the full range.
That said my dad had an old jet boat with a gas engine that would take a bit to 
get up on plane, and if the oil wasn't kept really full, the engine oil pump 
would suck air and it would lose oil pressure...
I'm very interested in the owners thoughts on this subject,
Bruce Whitmore 
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/31/18  2:04 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke 



Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an angle. And also 
most come from a tractor industry, where they were designed to be used flat. 
This means that in many (most?) cases, the dipstick shows an incorrect level of 
oil (usually lower
 than it should be). You have to find out what is the right level on the 
dipstick in your particular engine. Sucking out or draining the oil is 
certainly one way of figuring this out.
 
Marek
 


 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke


 



Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really have.



Joe

Coquina



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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that most of our inboard engines are mounted at an angle. And also 
most come from a tractor industry, where they were designed to be used flat. 
This means that in many (most?) cases, the dipstick shows an incorrect level of 
oil (usually lower than it should be). You have to find out what is the right 
level on the dipstick in your particular engine. Sucking out or draining the 
oil is certainly one way of figuring this out.

Marek


From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 09:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really have.

Joe
Coquina

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Stus-List Lewmar windlass deal

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just got an email.  MauriPro is offering the Lewmar V700 vertical windlass
at 45% off.  Nice windlass.  Good price.  I installed one on an IP 37.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dennis,

your slip is almost exactly like mine.  Floating dock with a finger to 
starboard, a neighbour to port without anything separating the two boats, 
prevailing winds from starboard. Add to it a narrow fairway.

I do it exactly like you do – turn after passing the finger (barely) and head 
up wind, towards the finger (at an angle). Right before I touch it, I steer to 
port, swinging the boat parallel to the finger. At this point I stop the boat 
using reverse – the trick is that you have to do it in a serious thrust (the 
prop walk is much more prominent when you reverse slowly).

I keep the lines on the dock. It helps. If you have this option, it might help, 
as well.

The main thing I would consider, though, is a mid-cleat line. If you adjust the 
length correctly, you could drop it on the outside cleat on the dock and stop 
the boat with it. If you are successful, it should hold the boat next to the 
finger if you put it in forward.

If it is really windy and I am solo, I don’t mid asking just about anyone on 
the dock to catch me. This helps and compensates for the PWR factor.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 11:59
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship

OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  Touche's 
"home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both outboard and 
midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently 
back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different scenario. 
 First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just short of full 
boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and 
my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards 
my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to 
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to the 
finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, have 
crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the 
finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern 
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern 
still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself approaching 
the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the steering station 
past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back on the boat, 
warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I had the exact same problem last night with a boatload of newbies on board.  
Double slip, Merit 25 to port, floating finger to starboard, I dock bow in.  
Overshot the 90-degree starboard turn into the slip while telling newbies how 
to place & tie fenders, nudged the Merit 25 (with fenders deployed), and came 
to a stop cockeyed.  Had to admit to them it wasn’t my best docking job.

My racing crew has it down to a science whatever the wind.  There’s a cleat on 
the end of the finger, with a short dock line to the sheet cleat on the coaming 
just aft of the lifeline gate brace.  When we’re coming in, somebody hops off 
forward and hands that short line to somebody else in the cockpit to pull the 
stern to starboard countering prop walk while stopping.

When single-handing I just have to do the best I can given the wind (which 
isn't always from starboard).  My dock lines have eye spices on the boat end, 
and we leave them tied to the dock and laid out, so one idea might be to use a 
boat hook to grab the loop of that aft line and pull the stern to starboard 
countering prop walk while stopping, if one person can manage all that.  After 
cleating that you’d still have to hop off quickly and get control of the bow.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 31, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yes.  One on the outboard end, one mid-pier and one at the bow.  The outboard 
> one ends up just aft of the secondary winch when Touche' is docked properly.  
> This is the cleat the spring line is put on when we're docking.
> 
> Forgot to mention, it's a floating pier so the finger pier is well below the 
> deck.  
> 
> The neighboring boat has fenders on my side.  I put out a fender on the port 
> side.  I'm not that concerned about coming up against the neighbor boat.  
> It's more about the PWR Richard referred to and about just docking smoothly.
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:07 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Are there cleats on the finger pier?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 11:59 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List  > wrote:
> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both 
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I 
> can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any 
> pilings.  Whoopee.
> 
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just 
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings 
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is 
> from the starboard side.  
> 
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off 
> towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable 
> to looking at a working boatyard.
> 
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
> boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
> when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
> prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
> 
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
> Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to 
> the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, 
> have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on 
> the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the 
> stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  
> The stern still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we 
> manage it.
> 
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself 
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the 
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back 
> on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.
> 
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 

Stus-List (no subject)

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Dennis, your Pensacola docking sounds similar to my old dock in Horseshoe
Bay Howe Sound in West Vancouver.  That spot would get very strong wind and
ferry wash coupled with a port prop walk that made getting our bow in
starboard tie a challenge.  I developed a technique that worked well with
my wife and I and by myself single handed (on occasion).

I made a single line for combined spring and stern that was attached to the
mid ship cleat via a loop at one bitter end for the spring line.  This was
just the right length for a spring that would prevent the bow from hitting
the main dock when attached to the pad-ring at the end of the finger.
Where it attached to the pad ring a carabeener was used and this was mid
line, not at a biter end.  The remaining line was used for the stern line,
it fed through the stern chock and had a stopper knot.

With this setup I did not use reverse at all, I used the spring line to
decelerate us and I would pull stern line from the helm to stop the stern
from swinging out when the spring became loaded.  Once that was done the
boat could remain in forward with the tiller pointed to the dock and it
would just stay there in place perfectly.

So once the line was rigged, it worked like this:

1) when entering the slip when the shrouds were at the cleat/eye at the end
of the finger, jump off and quikly secure carabeener.  Both the spring and
stern line were attached to the doc once this step was done
2) as the spring loads pull the stern line from the cockpit to stop the bow
from swinging into the dock, or the stern from hitting the neighbor to the
port
3) turn tiller to starboard
3) increase throttle once secure as needed to keep boat in place while
attaching other lines at leisure

One important thing to ensure is that the bitter end of of the stern line
has a stopper so it won't go through the chalk -- don't ask me know I
know  Let's just say it went wrong once when I didn't have that.

Interested to hear others' techniques.

Cheers,
  Jeremy


-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 10:58:34 -0500
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view
issues.  Docking
stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind
and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yes.  One on the outboard end, one mid-pier and one at the bow.  The
outboard one ends up just aft of the secondary winch when Touche' is docked
properly.  This is the cleat the spring line is put on when we're docking.

Forgot to mention, it's a floating pier so the finger pier is well below
the deck.

The neighboring boat has fenders on my side.  I put out a fender on the
port side.  I'm not that concerned about coming up against the neighbor
boat.  It's more about the PWR Richard referred to and about just docking
smoothly.



On Tue, Jul 31, 2018 at 11:07 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Are there cleats on the finger pier?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 11:59 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
>> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
>> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
>> I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
>> pilings.  Whoopee.
>>
>> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
>> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
>> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
>> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
>> from the starboard side.
>>
>> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
>> Docking
>> stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
>> neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
>> looking at a working boatyard.
>>
>> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls
>> the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to
>> port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The
>> wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>>
>> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
>> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
>> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
>> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
>> outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
>> is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
>> secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
>> this process but we manage it.
>>
>> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
>> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
>> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
>> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
>> myself.
>>
>> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Docking seamanship

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I might put some fenders out to port!
Also think about running a line from forward back to the cockpit with a loop. 
If there is a cleat or piling you can drop this line on from the stern, you 
should be able to power ahead and have the line hold the boat against the dock.
You can do what I do when people are around: Dock at super-low tide. Dragging 
through the mud I just power into the slip and stop dead center despite any 
amount of wind and causally walk around s-l-o-w-l-y getting the lines LOL.
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2018 12:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

Dennis; you do not have a problem... it is the "PWR" in effect; the PWR is the 
"People Watching Rule"; which is; "The amount of difficulty encountered when 
docking is directly proportional to the number of people watching": there are 
variations of course; but the gist is that you need to dock when there is no 
one around and you can back in, lasso the cleats and not spill a drop of your 
beverage of choice; but if even one person is watching...well

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4;

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Tue, Jul 31, 2018 11:59 am
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  Touche's 
"home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both outboard and 
midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently 
back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different scenario. 
 First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just short of full 
boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and 
my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards 
my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to 
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to the 
finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, have 
crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the 
finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern 
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern 
still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself approaching 
the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the steering station 
past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back on the boat, 
warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Installing a bow thruster?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 31, 2018, at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both 
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I 
> can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any 
> pilings.  Whoopee.
> 
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just 
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings 
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is 
> from the starboard side.  
> 
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off 
> towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable 
> to looking at a working boatyard.
> 
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
> boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
> when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
> prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
> 
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
> Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to 
> the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, 
> have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on 
> the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the 
> stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  
> The stern still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we 
> manage it.
> 
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself 
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the 
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back 
> on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.
> 
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Dennis; you do not have a problem... it is the "PWR" in effect; the PWR is the 
"People Watching Rule"; which is; "The amount of difficulty encountered when 
docking is directly proportional to the number of people watching": there are 
variations of course; but the gist is that you need to dock when there is no 
one around and you can back in, lasso the cleats and not spill a drop of your 
beverage of choice; but if even one person is watching...well

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4;


Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Tue, Jul 31, 2018 11:59 am
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship



OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  Touche's 
"home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both outboard and 
midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I can competently 
back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any pilings.  Whoopee.


However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different scenario. 
 First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just short of full 
boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings between Touche' and 
my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is from the starboard side.  


In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards 
my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to 
looking at a working boatyard.


So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
prop walk both working against the boat sucks.


I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to the 
finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, have 
crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on the 
finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the stern 
in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  The stern 
still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we manage it.


Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself approaching 
the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the steering station 
past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back on the boat, 
warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.


Any secret tricks I haven't explored?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Are there cleats on the finger pier?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, Jul 31, 2018, 11:59 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
> I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
> pilings.  Whoopee.
>
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
> from the starboard side.
>
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking
> stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
> neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
> looking at a working boatyard.
>
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls
> the boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to
> port when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The
> wind and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
>
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
> the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
> to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
> midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
> outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
> is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
> secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
> this process but we manage it.
>
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
> back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
> myself.
>
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view
issues.  Docking
stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind
and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Check the dipstick and then suck the oil out and see how much you really have.

Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Glenn Henderson via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 9:50 PM,  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>
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>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>1. Re:  Rudder repair? (ALAN BERGEN)
>2.  Oil pressure and smoke (Glenn Henderson)
>3. Re:  Oil pressure and smoke (ALAN BERGEN)
>4. Re:  Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Rick Brass)
>5. Re:  Emergency redundancy for bilge pump (Matthew L. Wolford)
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: ALAN BERGEN 
> To: "C" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2018 16:09:33 -0700
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder repair?
> Listen to James.  His advice is sound.  Don't let the insurance company
> push you around.  You want the boat back to where it was before the
> grounding, and heating and straightening won't bring it back to the way it
> was.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:57 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave
>> I have a C 29 Mk2 where the previous owner had hit rocks hard and tore
>> the bottom 10 inches off the rudder and bent the rudder post backward and
>> to port.  There was also some damage to the bottom of the keel.   I
>> replaced the bent rudder shaft with a new one made from 316 stainless as
>> part of a rudder rebuild.  Stainless work hardens if bent and while it can
>> be straightened you are essentially cold working it again to go the other
>> way to straighten and I would be concerned with cracking and overall loss
>> of strength.  If you added the required amount of heat to try to anneal to
>> compensate you would like damage the fiberglass rudder and foam core as the
>> anneal temperature for stainless is high.  If you are operating in a salt
>> water environment it is also more severe and higher risk of stress
>> corrosion cracking and thus the reason 316 stainless is used vs 304 in
>> marine applications.   Marine engineers designed the rudder post to bend if
>> hit hard enough once and thus not rip open the bottom of your boat. I'm not
>> sure they intended it to get straightened and take the same hit a second
>> time and not break off completely or worse.  My recommendation is get a new
>> rudder, or at minimum get a new post and have the rudder rebuilt as there
>> is likely more damage you don't see inside or at least the foam core had
>> been compromised by water getting in which was the case with my rudder.
>>  Good luck.
>>
>> James
>> C 29 Mk 2, White Magic. SN 001
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Jul 30, 2018, at 3:42 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> David
>>
>> If your insurance company is pushing for the repair vs replacement, ask
>> them if they will guarantee the repair and any subsequent damages.
>>
>> Ed Levert
>> C 34 Briar Patch
>> New Orleans, La
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 3:35 PM John Read via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> David Who is doing the repairs and what experience do they have? Suggest
>>> you call a reputable surveyor ,some other repair yards and of course to get
>>> the real answer Nick at Fort Rachel. Best John Read
>>>
>>>
>>> Sent from XFINITY Connect Application
>>>
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>>
>>> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: davidakne...@gmail.com
>>> Sent: 2018-07-30 11:50:47 AM
>>> Subject: Stus-List Rudder repair?
>>>
>>> I have a decision to make on repairing the rudder on my boat after it
>>> was damaged in a grounding on a reef.  The shaft is bent and they are
>>> proposing to straighten the shaft and then repair the fiberglass.  It was
>>> described to me by the surveyor as a common process and no big deal.  He
>>> said they used heat and hydraulics to do it while the shaft is still
>>> attached to the rudder.  He described one done recently on a Nonesuch as
>>> bent worse than mine and came out fine.  I have been looking into having a
>>> replacement built, but that is going to take more time and money to do, so
>>> I am wondering what the experience and wisdom of the group is on the issue
>>> of repair.  Thanks- Dave
>>>
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 

Re: Stus-List Oil pressure and smoke

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

When you say that you put in the "correct" amount of oil when you changed it, 
did you fill it so that the oil level was in the correct range on the dipstick 
at that time? This was before or after your trip? 
Splashing oil on the dipstick by cranking the engine tells you almost nothing, 
or did you mean that the dipstick reads correctly from that point forward until 
you start the engine again? i.e. wipe off the dipstick with a rag, put it in, 
take it out, read the level, and it is ok?  If not then the level is too low, 
unless you really believe that you have the wrong dipstick. If it were me, I 
would not make that assumption. 
Blue smoke normally means that the engine is burning lubricating oil, so it is 
reasonable to expect the oil level to drop after a long run under that 
condition. The good news is that if an engine has been sitting for a long time, 
it may burn oil for a while until the rings loosen up and re-seat, and then run 
with little or no visible smoke. Fresh oil helps too, of course, and you say 
that the smoke situation has improved, so it should burn less oil in the 
future.   

Steve Thomas
C MKIII

 Glenn Henderson via CnC-List  wrote: 
>
> I have a 3JH4E on my 41. Strangely, after the engine sits, the dipstick
> for the oil reads nothing unless I "bump" the starter. Then it reads
> normal. I changed the filter and the oil so I know there is the proper
> amount of oil. It just freaks me out to see a dry dipstick after running
> the engine a lot. Has any one else experienced this?
>

Also, I have a light blue (not much) smoke in operation. I added the proper
amount of "Gumount" fuel additive and it stops. I wonder if that is telling
me anything?  I just bought the boat in May and sailed it to Tampa Bay
using the engine quite a bit and she did great.

Glenn Henderson

C 41 WeGo


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