Stus-List Re: Updated dock photo
Alan,There is a spot on the photo album where you can post photos of your vessel also. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List Date: 3/22/22 15:25 (GMT-06:00) To: Stus-List Cc: ALAN BERGEN Subject: Stus-List Re: Updated dock photo Yu can post it on the C Silboat Owners' Facebook page.Alan Bergen35 Mk III ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 1:04 PM Doug via CnC-List wrote:Hi Stu,I wanted to send an updated dock photo of Significant other. I renamed her Rebecca Leah. Do I send you the picture or?? I know that the list has very limited space for pictures. ThanksDoug. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA
Stus-List Re: Updated dock photo
Yu can post it on the C Silboat Owners' Facebook page. Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Tue, Mar 22, 2022 at 1:04 PM Doug via CnC-List wrote: > Hi Stu, > I wanted to send an updated dock photo of Significant other. I renamed her > Rebecca Leah. Do I send you the picture or?? I know that the list has very > limited space for pictures. > > Thanks > Doug. > > > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Rebecca Leah > C & C Landfall 39 > Port Orchard Yacht Club > Port Orchard, WA > >
Stus-List Re: Updated dock photo
Doug and others -- send your photo to me with a caption. I'll send it to the list. Stu
Stus-List Updated dock photo
Hi Stu,I wanted to send an updated dock photo of Significant other. I renamed her Rebecca Leah. Do I send you the picture or?? I know that the list has very limited space for pictures. ThanksDoug. Doug Mountjoy sv Rebecca Leah C & C Landfall 39Port Orchard Yacht Club Port Orchard, WA
Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general
Some thoughts on sealants. Sealants are primarily silicone, polysulfide, polyurethane and blends of them. Add to that butyl rubber. First, as a rule, I like butyl for any hardware that has the potential to flex or move. Chainplates fit that criteria. My default sealant for most everything else except plastic is LifeSeal. For plastic I generally use silicone. Here's a reference for where to use sealants: https://drive.google.com/file/d/12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID-/view?usp=sharing Note that Life Calk is a polysulfide. Do not use polysulfide for plastic. LifeSeal is a blend of silicone and polyurethane. 4200 is polyurethane. I don't use 4200. Got too many partially cured tubes. Look at the expiration date before you buy. 5200 is NOT a sealant. It's an adhesive. From the 3M website: "3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is a one-component, high-strength, moisture-curing, gap-filling polyurethane for permanent bonding of wood, gelcoat and fiberglass." Note the word "permanent"! A bit off the subject, but Flexpaste seems to fix gouges in rubber rub rails fairly well. Who'd a thunk it? An "as seen on TV product" that actually works on a boat! -- Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA
Stus-List Re: list removal?
I think if you just put unsubscribe in the subject and send it to the list you will be removed. On 2022-03-21 20:37, Richard Walter via CnC-List wrote: Greetings, Can I please have my email address removed from the CnC-list? Thank you, Richard J. Walter -- Cheers, Jeff Nelson Muir Caileag C 30 - 549 Armdale Y.C.
Stus-List Re: Teak Handrail install
On my 35-2 handrails are attached same way but the exterior handrails are 1.5 times longer than the interior handrails. I found it to be at least a 2 person job to reattach them with butyl tape bedding and the large 3.5 inch stainless screws from inside to outside tended to distort the butyl tape so I ended up punching out holes in the tape so those screws could easily pass through it to the outside handrails and the job was more difficult due to the curvature of the longer outside hsndrails. On Mon, Mar 21, 2022 at 3:00 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Chuck that sounds like a good plan. I replaced my exterior teak handrails > five years ago (1972 30 MK I hull #79) and they were fastened almost the > same way - with long wood screws through the interior handrails and > cabintop (no nuts involved). When I reassembled I fastened them the same > way (with new SS wood screws) and left the interior bungs out. The > threaded insert and machine screw from inside approach sounds pretty slick. > > Cheers, > Randy > > On Mar 19, 2022, at 7:37 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Curious if anyone else tried this? > > My cabin top handrails are bolted to a matching set in the cabin ceiling. > They were throughbolted to each other using long bolts and nuts and the > holes bunged. I removed them to fix leaks many years ago and want to > install them now so I can simply remove the screws from inside and remove > both for a winter retouch. > > They were originally through bolted together, the outside cabintop > handrails had 3 1/2" long 10-24 screws and the cabin ceiling handrails had > nuts holding it all together, both fasteners had teak bungs over the > fasteners. > > My plan is to install threaded inserts into the outside handrails and use > stainless 10-24 screws from the inside ones to hold them together. My plan > is to bung the outer handrails and leave out bungs on the inner set, so I > can remove the the screws from inside, each winter. I've already overbored > and redrilled and countersunk the deck holes, and will use butyl tape for > bedding. This should provide a way to remove the long screws from inside > without removing the bungs on the outside handrails. > > https://www.mcmaster.com/90016A011/ > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis > > > > > > > > -- Sent from Gmail Mobile
