Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[rshibe via CnC-List]

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 12:59, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom
> 
> Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
> hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, 
> but in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on 
> the engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
> I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of 
> crud both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the 
> cooling system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may 
> have stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
> Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
> overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I 
> have pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was 
> wrenching on it.
> I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this 
> application. Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless 
> steel.  Any opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this 
> area? Titanium would be awesome!
> It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is 
> in our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a 
> south sound swing in June as well!
> Fair seas,
> 
> Rick
> 
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
>> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
>> the deal...
>> 
>> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
>> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
>> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
>> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
>> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
>> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
>> 
>> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
>> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
>> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
>> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
>> 
>> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
>> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job 
>> next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have 
>> done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and 
>> dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
>> causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
>> 
>> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
>> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
>> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
>> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck 
>> here for  a while.  
>> 
>> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
>> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
>> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
>> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
>> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
>> one may be in order. 
>> 
>> Here are my questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
>> overheating problem?
>> 
>> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
>> experiencing?
>> 
>> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
>> 
>> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
>> 
>> thx
>> 
>> Tom B
>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Nav Station Panel and Volt Meter Recommendations

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Black Starboard.

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 15, 2016, at 13:30, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Greeting all,
>  
> One of my winter projects is to replace the black panel at the top of my nav 
> station.  The current panel was the home to my old B speed, depth, and wind 
> computers.  Their removal last spring left several gaping holes.  I’d like to 
> start with a fresh panel and install a volt meter and eventually some other 
> items.  The panel is 1/8” thick with a matte black finish.  It appears to be 
> some sort of fiberboard product. 
>  
> I have been looking at plastic panel materials at McMaster-Carr, but I’m not 
> really sure which kind to get.  Plastic sheeting comes in so many different 
> materials.  I’m sure someone here has replaced theirs at some point.  This is 
> the same type of material used for the circuit breaker panel.  What works and 
> looks like the original stuff?
>  
> The first instrument to go into the new panel will be a volt meter.  My B 
> instruments had one built-in, but they’re gone now.  It seems there are only 
> two options for digital volt meters; the high dollar Blue Seas meters 
> (pricey) and the cheap Chinese meters that run $15-25.  I’m looking to 
> install a single meter with a toggle switch to test both batteries 
> separately.  Does anyone have a source for a reasonably priced digital volt 
> meter?
>  
> Right now I’m looking at something like this:  
> http://www.sears.com/niceeshop-tm-mini-2-wire-dc-4.5-30v/p-SPM7958467523
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Plastic caps plugs for cabin interior roof?

[rshibe via CnC-List]

McMaster & Carr would be the first place I would look.
Ray Shibe

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 29, 2016, at 21:56, Lorne Serpa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I need to replace a few caps that cover the bolt holes on the interior of the 
> cabin roof where the exterior teak handholds bolt through the roof.   Anyone 
> know where to get some?  They are about 1 inch or so in diameter.
> 
> Lorne Serpa 
> C 30MKII 1988
> Friendship,  MD
> 
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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 hull numbers

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Stinky Dog; LF38 hull #125 was destroyed by fire in 2007. I think it was built 
in1982.
she is dearly missed.
Ray Shibe
> 
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Re: Stus-List Brokers and surveyors

[rshibe via CnC-List]

   Chuck would you forward contact information for Mike Collier of Marine 
Safety to me at; rsh...@optonline.net. 
Thanks, 
Ray Shibe

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 23, 2016, at 12:59, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Buying a boat from a broker without a buyer’s agent is the same as buying a 
> house with no realtor representing you.   And doing so from long distance, 
> stacks the deck even further against you.  The seller’s agent is looking out 
> for the seller and themselves.  Period.  Since that agent gets commission 
> based upon the selling price of the boat, why would they negotiate for a 
> cheaper price on your behalf?  And generally, if you have your own broker, 
> the commission paid to the buyers broker is often a portion of the fees 
> collected by the agent listing the boat. 
>  
> To the topic of knowledgeable brokers and surveyors, I think that most 
> brokers tend to follow the money trail and focus their energy and expertise 
> on what will yield the greatest return for them and their company.  Many 
> yacht brokers are passing up listings of 30-40 year old sailboats because 
> demand is low, the potential buyers are cheapskates (yes, that includes us!) 
> and the time and money it takes to list an old “fixer upper” may result in 
> the broker being upside down in recovering their costs.  If they take on an 
> older boat, they’d prefer to list the 40 year old Hinckley or Morris Yacht 
> that still sells for over $100K, which means their commission actually 
> amounts to some return for the effort.  This is why you see more and more 
> cheap boats being represented by “discount” online brokers like POP Yachts, 
> where the virtual brokerage is located in Florida and their “regional” sales 
> agent collects  photos from the owner and shows the boat to clients.  This 
> person may have 50-100 boats listed and may never have first-hand knowledge 
> of any of them.  From experience, the regional guy is not usually a sailor 
> and he may have inherited the listing from a prior broker who may no longer 
> be with the company. 
>  
> When I purchased Half Magic last winter, I was fortunate that my surveyor, 
> Mike Collier from Marine Safety in Fairhaven, MA, is also a C Landfall 38 
> owner and was very excited to run a fine tooth comb over my purchase.  I 
> scheduled the survey to be performed when I could be there too.  Even so, we 
> surveyed in January with the boat out of the water and we missed a few 
> things.  First off, the boat had no operational batteries, so we had to hook 
> up the electrics to a temporary battery to see if everything worked.  Items 
> like the refrigeration compressor “turned on” but I was later to find out 
> that the refrigerant charge wasn’t sufficient to cool down the icebox during 
> the summer.  How do you determine that in January when EVERYTHING was cold 
> and freezing?
>  It was difficult, but we managed to run the engine on auxiliary fuel and 
> water.   Despite draining the fuel cell after purchase,  I discovered 
> substantial residue in the fuel tank from the boat sitting for such a long 
> time on the hard, resulting in a few clogged filters at some very inopportune 
> times during the course of the summer.  There are certainly times I wish for 
> the simplicity of my previous 25Mk 1 with very little interior plumbing, a 
> simple outboard motor, and no electronics to go haywire.
>  
> I’ve also heard of some folks getting two surveys on a boat purchase, one 
> very thorough survey to be as informed as possible and the other as a more 
> “general” survey that can be submitted to an insurance company to allow an 
> older boat to be insured if there may some problems that the owner wants to 
> fix on his own but perhaps not right away.
> Be wary of boats that have been listed for many months and are now listed at 
> significantly reduced price.  Those are the boats that were initially priced 
> well if they were in good shape, but problems came up and the broker or owner 
> didn’t want to go the expense of fixing the problem.  To think that you can 
> fix those problems cheaper than the original owner or a yard that is able to 
> buy parts and labor at wholesale, may be a bit of a pipedream.
>  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> 
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List 3GMD

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Howard, 
You might try and find a fat  "O" ring or whittle down a wine cork.
Ray

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 2, 2016, at 17:09, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello All,
> Now that the boat (35-3) is on the hard, I was able to clean the engine and 
> try to locate the source of my oil leak(s).  It appears that the culprit is 
> the dipstick! The rubber seal no longer is able to stay in place, rises up 
> and allows oil out of the crankcase when under power.  The local parts shop 
> says the oil dip stick is out of stock and not available.  Does anyone have a 
> lead on where to obtain a dipstick for a 3GMD? Thanks.
> Howard Paul, Skipper of Knot Again
> 
> 


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Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Use electrical conduit to support the  cover. Connect the framework with "Kover 
Klamps". Google; Kover Klamps where you will find pictures  that will show more 
than I can tell you. Having used them I will suggest using a power screw 
driver, it will make the job faster and less wear and tear on hand and wrist.
Good luck,
Ray Shibe
> 
>> 
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S 
>> via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 10:56 AM
>> To: C Stus List 
>> Cc: Dave S 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
>>  
>> I had a cover made by Dennis at Quinte but my frame came with the boat.  It 
>> uses aluminum tubing.  In addition to the spine and ribs, I have vertical 
>> posts (5?) supporting the spine.   Also, there are longitudinal pipes 
>> running parallel to and around a foot above the sheer, clamped to each leg 
>> though an appropriate cast fitting.  this keeps the ribs from twisting.  
>> Additionally, I bungee cord over that longitudinal to the toe-rail.   Seems 
>> to work.
>>  
>> just posted pics here:
>>  
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/12/winter-cover-frame-photos.html
>>  
>>   have a Quinte canvas winter cover with a rigid aluminum frame made out of 
>> 3/4 aluminum conduit. We have over 3 feet of snowfall so far and the frame 
>> collapses with heavy or wet snow. Does anyone have experience keeping their 
>> quinte frame upright? Thinking about zip ties to the lifelines.
>> Len
>> C 37+
>> Midland On.
>> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List frame parts and pieces

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Look for over clamps

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 30, 2016, at 15:57, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave –
> Do you have a source for the cast fitting connecting the longitudinal pipes 
> to the leg?  Or each leg to the spine?
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 10:56 AM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
>  
> I had a cover made by Dennis at Quinte but my frame came with the boat.  It 
> uses aluminum tubing.  In addition to the spine and ribs, I have vertical 
> posts (5?) supporting the spine.   Also, there are longitudinal pipes running 
> parallel to and around a foot above the sheer, clamped to each leg though an 
> appropriate cast fitting.  this keeps the ribs from twisting.  Additionally, 
> I bungee cord over that longitudinal to the toe-rail.   Seems to work.
>  
> just posted pics here:
>  
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2016/12/winter-cover-frame-photos.html
>  
>  
> Better go check
>  
> Dave
> windstar 33-2
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  Forwarded message --
> From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc: 
> Date: Fri, 30 Dec 2016 15:54:54 +
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Quinte cover
> Hi Len
> 
> I believe this is a Top Shop cover.  I have the same
> 
> There are two issues with ours when it comes to wet snow.
> 1. The snow sticks to the canvas
> 2. The ribs twist and allow the frame to collapse.
> 
> I have tried a couple of different tricks over the years.
> 
> To support the spine in the past I have used 2x4 supports in cockpit and on 
> deck to help take the extra weight of the snow
> 
> For the twisting ribs where the feet of the legs seem to move to the side a 
> new solution was suggested to me.  It can be done with pvc conduit or with 
> 1x3 strapping.  Run the new conduit or strapping under the ribs parallel to 
> the length of the boat.  With the PVC conduit you can use ubolts to attach to 
> the ribs along the way and with both the pvc and the wood  strapping you can 
> also simply use electrical tape ( a lot of it).  Wrap the tape around the 
> ribs where the strapping / conduit runs beneath it and run the strapping from 
> the pushpit to the pulpit.   This will give resistance against the ribs from 
> twisting.  I just did this 2 weeks ago and they are still straight.  Have not 
> had any great amount of snow since then though (just a lot of rain while I 
> was retying the cover).
> 
> Regardless of all this if you have a buildup of snow on the cover you should 
> remove the snow from time to time.
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> 1987 Frers 33 #16
> Halifax, NS
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mitchell's 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2016 11:41 AM
> To: CNC List
> Cc: Mitchell's
> Subject: Stus-List Quinte cover
> 
> I have a Quinte canvas winter cover with a rigid aluminum frame made out of 
> 3/4 aluminum conduit. We have over 3 feet of snowfall so far and the frame 
> collapses with heavy or wet snow. Does anyone have experience keeping their 
> quinte frame upright? Thinking about zip ties to the lifelines.
> Len
> C 37+
> Midland On.
> 
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Quinte cover - now frame parts and pieces

[rshibe via CnC-List]

I think Kover Klamps are available from Defender as well as the Kover Klamp web 
site.
 Ray Shibe

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 31, 2016, at 12:02, Len Mitchell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the replies, you guys are awesome! This cover has been on for 
> 8 winters and the boat has been on the hard since September. I will probably 
> try Kover Klamps after some more research with the links supplied. They are 
> 5$ each and can be retrofit with the tarp in place. I may be incorrect and 
> the conduit 1 inch but will deal with it soon. All the best in the new year! 
> Len
> 


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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Hey Bob, 
Are you selling Invictus, getting different boat???
Ray

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 7, 2017, at 11:16, Bob Curtiss via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Need to sell! NorLam 155% Genoa, Kevlar Blade w/battens,
> 
> Kevlar main X20 grey, full spinnaker. $3,000, or best offer. 
> 
> _
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Re: Stus-List C 40 question

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Hey guys our boats also serve as "Man Caves" what better interior than dark 
wood for a "Man Cave".
Ray Shibe

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 5, 2017, at 10:40, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> ...that's why we were not geting all those firsts.
> 
> And all this time I blamed the crew...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: rjcasciato via CnC-List  
> Date: 7/5/17 1:23 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: rjcasciato  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 40 question 
> 
> Great lines, but way too much dark wood below. "less is more" 
> With all that weight. it would be hard to sail to her rating...
> Ron C.
> Impromptu 
> 38 MK II 
> 1977
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
> Date: 7/5/17 10:30 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> Subject: Stus-List C 40 question
> 
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/C%26C-Yachts-C%26amp%3BC-40-3102940/Oriental/NC/United-States#.WVz3qmYUk6Y
> 
>  
> 
> Has anyone seen this boat?
> 
> Two things come to mind, one is the bow pulpit looks bent and the second is 
> outside of cardboard, I cannot image a worse material for a holding tank then 
> aluminum!
> 
> YIKES!
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C 35 MK I
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Florida's Emerald Coast

[rshibe via CnC-List]

What’s a Bushwacker?

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 19, 2018, at 16:30, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
> 
> Switching to sailing mode as I type. Just finished packing for a 4:00 AM 
> departure to Sarasota. Florida for the Corsair Nationals. Two days practice 
> on Wednesday and Thursday. Three days of racing starting Friday.
> 
> Push Touche’ a bit longer and further South and I’ll stand you to a beer!
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
> P.S.  Dark and Stormy’s for me...
> 
>> On Feb 19, 2018, at 3:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Time to put away the skis and snowboard and switch to sailing mode.  Haven't 
>> been on Touche' since mid-January.  Planning to head over to Pensacola 
>> Wednesday for a couple days on the boat.
>> 
>> Found this article while doing some "web sailing".  Interesting that the 
>> charter company rented a C 30.  Well, at least it can get under the 
>> Navarre Beach Bridge.  Touche' is a wee bit too tall to chance it.
>> 
>> http://www.ecsailing.com/ecy_cruising_la1.htm
>> 
>> The article mentions Juana's Pagodas in Navarre.  
>> (http://www.juanaspagodas.com/)  I'm hoping to anchor overnight there 
>> Thursday night.  Fun place.  Sip a beer or a Bushwhacker and watch Touche' 
>> sitting at anchor.  Breakfast at Sailor's Grill Friday morning.  You guys 
>> can keep your Pusser's and your Dark and Stormy's, it's a Bushwhacker for 
>> me.  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
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Re: Stus-List got my shirt Landfall 38

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Hey Folks,
I see everyone getting their Tee shirts but somewhere along I missed the 
source. Can someone help me. 
Thanks,
Ray Shibe “Stink Dog”  1984 C 41 



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Re: Stus-List Used A 2 Running Asymmetrical

[rshibe via CnC-List]

Rod, going over old emails I see you are looking for an asymmetric sail. I have 
a new one by North. The “I” is 47.5, “J” is 15.9. The sail is new never been up 
the mast. Contact me off list for details.
Ray shibe..rsh...@optonline.net

Sent from my iPad

> On Feb 25, 2018, at 08:53, Rod Stright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looking for a used A 2 running asymmetrical in good condition that will fit a 
> C 99 with an I of 46 and a J of 14.5’
> 
> Rod 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray