Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Just remember that a masthead tricolor with a steaming light is NOT a 
recognized nav light configuration; you need to use deck-level nav lights with 
a steaming light when under power.  Masthead tri can only be used when sailing.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 4, 2020, at 12:12 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> +1 on that.
>  
> In a seaway, the deck level navigation lights are not visible, until you are 
> one wave away or if you happen to be in sync with the other boat (both boats 
> at the top of the wave at the same time). The mast top light is visible for 
> at least hundreds of meters.
>  
> On flat water (a lake?, coastal??) the deck level lights are more natural 
> (easier to understand and spot).
>  
> Marek
>  
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List <>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 4, 2020 13:00
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <> ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com <>
> Cc: Neil Andersen <>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?
>  
> What is required and what is smart are not always the same.  A masthead 
> tri-color is not what I would use here in the Chesapeake as many 
> (power)boaters don’t look up.  At sea, I wouldn’t use anything else.
>  
> You can’t use both at the same time, but you can have both on your boat and 
> use what is appropriate for where you are.
>  
> By the way, the tri-color provides the aft facing white light.
>  
> Neil A
> 1982 C FoxFire 32
> Rock Hall, MD
>  
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>  
>>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rudder lubrication Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Simon — did you have any issues getting the Allen set screws loose on the upper 
collar, and getting it off?  I’m facing dropping the rudder this winter, and 
would appreciate any guidance on this.

Thanks!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:45 AM, Simon and Silvana via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have removed the rudder and would like guidance on the type of lubricant to 
> use in the lower section where the rudder passes through the fibreglass tube.
> What is the best replacement material for the nylon (?) disc of the thrust 
> bearing?
> Has anyone installed a grease fitting in the thrust bearing?
> Thanks
> Simon
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List St Michael's rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tell Sue she’s a wimp...   


— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave NW
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Oct 18, 2019, at 3:58 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Given the forecast for Sunday we are likely to bail. The admiral is opposed 
> to cold and wet. 
> 
> Have a great time!
> Joel 
> 
>> On Fri, Oct 18, 2019 at 4:50 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Yeah we're on approach.  ETA 5:54pm.
>> 
>> Josh and Carmeletta Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 443-295-3238 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Oct 18, 2019, 4:45 PM detroito91 via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Just left the museum...water level low..@ 5 feet. They trying to work 
>>> things out. One boat has arrived
>>> Jim Schwartz 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boat Projects info?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Yes, I heard from Wal a couple of weeks ago, and he mentioned that he doesn’t 
want to pay for web hosting for his site any more (more $$$ for tequila?).  He 
has archived all of the content, so it hasn’t just disappeared forever.

He’s still in Mexico; he’s been down there for ten years now.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 1:16 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I really appreciate how Paul has documented his S/V Johanna Rose projects and 
> sent his site link, http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 
>  to a friend. I wanted to send Wally’s 
> Stella Blue site link too, but it may have disappeared.  Anyone seen Wally, 
> last in Mexico somewhere or know the status of his site?
> 
> His site should have been archived on the C site and Paul should get a 
> Wally award!
> 
> Their info and support have helped so many on this list.
> 
> Thanks all, Lee
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit cup holders

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tom — I have one of these for 1” pedestal guard tubing on 9-1/2” centers that 
I’ll happily send you for a $25 contribution to Stu:

http://snapitproducts.com/snapit-marine/products/m005/m005-binnacle-mounted-drink-holder
 


Contact me off-list if you’re interested.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 30, 2019, at 7:27 AM, T Smyth via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This may seem frivolous but I recognized a serious need for cockpit cup 
> holders during a recent outing on Shangri-La.
> 
> I am looking for recommendations for types of and recommended locations for 
> cockpit cup holders on a C 30 MK1 (1974).
> 
> There are lots of possibilities. I’m looking for something that is 
> aesthetically pleasing and functional and will not interfere with activity in 
> the cockpit.
> Horizontal and vertical examples include https://amzn.to/2nJuNqe 
>  and http://bit.ly/2nMnWML 
> 
> What has worked well for you? Thanks for sharing any experiences and ideas if 
> you have a moment.
> 
> …. Cheers!
> 
> Tom
> 
> C 30 (1974)
> Augusta GA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough current to 
crank is another, and definitely something that will be adversely affected by 
bad ground continuity.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Clean all the ground connections.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my electrical 
> issue du jour.  
> 
> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.  Bank 
> 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years old.  Bank 
> 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my batteries pretty well 
> and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I have a True Charge 40 
> battery charger.   One morning after several days out sailing, drinking lots 
> of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music playing) and running the 
> engine very little, the engine would not start.  Starter turned slow, felt 
> like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch 
> to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped 
> working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed my 
> starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on battery remaining at 225 
> hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my starter battery and it read 
> 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up the battery pack and 
> connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start the engine.  
> 
> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new 1000 
> cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then left for 
> a few more days on the water. 
> 
> Now, the current circumstance is this.  
> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal 
> charging voltages to both battery banks.  
> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to both 
> batteries.   
> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are resting 
> at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link 20.  When I 
> try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery power.  The 
> engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1 or ALL and 
> won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V electrical activity on 
> the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable battery pack onto my starter 
> battery with the switch in the ALL position, the engine will go however, it 
> still feels like the starter is turning too slowly.  
> 
> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the system 
> has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would appreciate 
> any suggestions
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 3QM cooling system woes

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Pete — how was the Trans Superior?

No, I haven’t spoken with Walkie yet (for the listers who don’t know him, he’s 
the local diesel guru up here; his dad runs dieselenginetrader.com).  What was 
the result of your heat-exchanger testing?

Yes, I’ll have to purge the coolant; if I go raw-water for now, I won’t need 
any…      If I end up repairing/replacing the exchanger, I’ll be replacing 
with Prestone green like the existing.

Or were you asking about replacing the exchanger??

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 9, 2019, at 3:03 PM, Pete Shelquist-comcast 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred- 
> A couple years ago I had an issue with my HX.  Once I had it off, Walkie was 
> able to pressure test it for me.   That was in the middle of the winter and 
> he didn’t have much going on.  I don’t know what other options you have or if 
> you’ve talked to him?
> 
> It sounds like you’re going to purge all your anti freeze.  What’s your 
> choice to replace?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 3QM cooling system woes

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — with the Sendure after-market cooling system, you end up with two pumps: 
the stock Yanmar pump on the engine which on my boat currently pumps coolant; 
and the add-on pump that on my boat currently pumps lake water.  I would 
basically be bypassing the Sendure system with the add-on pump and heat 
exchanger, and converting back to the stock raw-water cooled system.  In my 
case, that would be cold Lake Superior fresh water, so I’m not too worried 
about engine temp.

This is how many C’s were delivered from the factory; with no coolant system, 
just raw seawater.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:39 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fred:
> 
> What is going to make the seawater circulate through the engine?  Are you 
> going to the raw water pump to circulate seawater through the engine’s 
> cavity?  I would think that the volume of seawater circulated would need to 
> be greater than the antifreeze/water mixture normally in the closed cooling 
> system since it is less efficient in heat exchange but there may be enough 
> seawater that would be pumped by the raw water pump.  You might find that the 
> temperarture will run a little higher than normal.
> 
> 
>> On Aug 9, 2019, at 2:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM diesel, 
>> fitted with a Sendure fresh-water exchanger kit (also original).
>> 
>> Over the last season or so, I’ve been noticing a slow but accelerating drop 
>> in the coolant level.  In the last month, it has sped up quite a lot.  It’s 
>> not getting into the oil, and the head gasket is relatively new.  With the 
>> recent acceleration, there’s also a lot of white smoke (steam) in the 
>> exhaust as well.
>> 
>> I’m thinking the heat exchanger may have developed a leak (or leaks) between 
>> the fresh and raw water sides.  I’m going to pull it this weekend and test 
>> it to see if that’s the case.  I am also going to replace ALL coolant hoses 
>> (fresh and raw, including the loops to the water heater and the v-drive).  I 
>> ordered 50 feet of 1/2” and 3/4” Gates green-stripe (off Amazon) to keep 
>> costs lower per foot and make sure I have enough; this may also allow me to 
>> perform a temporary fix in case the exchanger is toast, by completely 
>> bypassing the Sendure system and effectively making the engine raw-water 
>> cooled until I can decide what to do with the exchanger.  This would also 
>> allow me to go on an extended weekend cruise next weekend without worry.  
>> BTW, so that I don’t have to try to size new belts for the engine, I’ll 
>> leave the add-on coolant pump in place, but remove the impeller and just let 
>> it freewheel for the temporary fix (with no hoses connected).  It’s fairly 
>> new, I replaced it a few years ago.
>> 
>> Anyone see any downsides to this plan; or any other places I can look for 
>> the missing coolant?   
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Landfall 38 3QM cooling system woes

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hello, all — I’ve got a 1979 LF38 with the original Yanmar 3QM diesel, fitted 
with a Sendure fresh-water exchanger kit (also original).

Over the last season or so, I’ve been noticing a slow but accelerating drop in 
the coolant level.  In the last month, it has sped up quite a lot.  It’s not 
getting into the oil, and the head gasket is relatively new.  With the recent 
acceleration, there’s also a lot of white smoke (steam) in the exhaust as well.

I’m thinking the heat exchanger may have developed a leak (or leaks) between 
the fresh and raw water sides.  I’m going to pull it this weekend and test it 
to see if that’s the case.  I am also going to replace ALL coolant hoses (fresh 
and raw, including the loops to the water heater and the v-drive).  I ordered 
50 feet of 1/2” and 3/4” Gates green-stripe (off Amazon) to keep costs lower 
per foot and make sure I have enough; this may also allow me to perform a 
temporary fix in case the exchanger is toast, by completely bypassing the 
Sendure system and effectively making the engine raw-water cooled until I can 
decide what to do with the exchanger.  This would also allow me to go on an 
extended weekend cruise next weekend without worry.  BTW, so that I don’t have 
to try to size new belts for the engine, I’ll leave the add-on coolant pump in 
place, but remove the impeller and just let it freewheel for the temporary fix 
(with no hoses connected).  It’s fairly new, I replaced it a few years ago.

Anyone see any downsides to this plan; or any other places I can look for the 
missing coolant?   

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Starship Enterprise - The First 15 Years (C Porn)

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I think it’s the other side of the Neutral Zone…   

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 31, 2019, at 10:28 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd, nicely doneso, does your move to Fla put you in a different Quadrant?
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4
> Richard N. Bush Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Sent: Wed, Jul 31, 2019 10:47 am
> Subject: Stus-List Starship Enterprise - The First 15 Years (C Porn)
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As the Enterprise (NCC-1701-B) prepares to depart City Island to start the 
> next chapter, we look back at all the great memories of Eastchester Bay and 
> Long Island Sound. 
> 
> If you have 9 minutes and 12 seconds to spare, and would like to see some 
> great images of a C 37/40+ in action, feel free to take a look.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrYxdilqwZ0 
>  
> 
> (All images are from dates between Stardate 10541.1 and Stardate 11957.8)
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 37/40

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Well, he’s got his work cut out for himself…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 1:37 PM, Paul via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> By the way, apparently Beau Geste is in Toronto getting fixed by the owner
> himself.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 37/40 1990

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I hope the original poster isn’t referring to Beau Geste, located in Bayfield, 
WI; a vessel discussed on the list earlier.  If so, run away.  Don’t even think 
twice.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 23, 2019, at 9:09 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> " the boat may bend and then bind the steering "
> 
> That's funny, no, that doesn't happen.
> 
> " balsa core and water on an older boat."
> 
> Get a good survey.  C's generally don't have this problem but once in a 
> while they do, usually due to a later owner modification done badly.
> 
> Which 1990 C 37/40 are you looking at?  Just curious...
> 
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> On Tue, 23 Jul 2019 at 10:40, Lee Harris via CnC-List  > wrote:
> Hi - looking at buying the above boat.  Internet blogs (Anarchy/others) 
> indicate the boat may bend and then bind the steering.  Second concern is the 
> balsa core and water on an older boat. This may be a std concern for all 
> older boats.  Any take-aways would be appreciated.  Boat has been raced as 
> well..thxs lee
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Okay, you had me confused for awhile…

You don’t currently have DSC info from the VHF to the plotter; you have GPS 
from the plotter to the VHF, for positional info.  This is different from DSC, 
which would be call info from the VHF to display on the plotter.

If you connect the following wires, and change the plotter to receive 38,400 
baud data, you may get everything you need:

Garmin VHF

Blue (NMEA Out+)  ==>  Blue  (NMEA In+)
Brown (NMEA In+)  <==  Brown (AIS HS Data Out+)
Black (Gnd)   ==>  Green (Gnd)

This is one thing I dislike about Garmin; their documentation and settings on 
the technical side leave something to be desired.  The User Manual doesn’t 
specify whether or not switching the NMEA0183 input port’s data speed also 
affects the output port.  In this case, the Garmin output needs to be at 4800 
baud (for positional data), and the input port needs to be at 38,400 baud (for 
AIS).  If switching the input port in the settings menu causes both to switch 
to 38,400, you’ll lose the GPS data going to the VHF, as it wants to receive 
position data at 4800.  But it may be worth a try to see what happens.

If this don’t work, I’d suggest an Actisense NGW-1-STNG, configured for AIS, to 
get the AIS sentences from the VHF to the NMEA2000 input of the plotter.  If 
you don’t yet have an NMEA2000 or SeaTalkNG network, you’ll need to build one.  
I can help you design that, if needed, as well as configure the NGW-1.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> The Garmin unit is the Echomap Plus 94 SV.  Here is the manual:  
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=11=2ahUKEwjZsrzZmIXjAhWtneAKHTCiAnUQFjAKegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.garmin.com%2Fpumac%2FechoMAP_Plus_60_70_90_Installation_EN.pdf=AOvVaw3YkkuZ7UeK6xWaB8W9ulaS
>  
> <https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=11=2ahUKEwjZsrzZmIXjAhWtneAKHTCiAnUQFjAKegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.garmin.com%2Fpumac%2FechoMAP_Plus_60_70_90_Installation_EN.pdf=AOvVaw3YkkuZ7UeK6xWaB8W9ulaS>
> 
> Here is the manual for the Standard Horizon GX2100:  
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwjzoMi6mYXjAhWyUt8KHb6WAYoQFjAAegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.standardhorizon.com%2FdownloadFile.cfm%3FFileID%3D5180%26FileCatID%3D92%26FileName%3DGX2000%255FGX2100%255FOwner%2527s%2520Manual.pdf%26FileContentType%3Dapplication%252Fpdf=AOvVaw1pEjNKt-CbUQDyyOTtG-_u
>  
> <https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwjzoMi6mYXjAhWyUt8KHb6WAYoQFjAAegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.standardhorizon.com%2FdownloadFile.cfm%3FFileID%3D5180%26FileCatID%3D92%26FileName%3DGX2000%255FGX2100%255FOwner%2527s%2520Manual.pdf%26FileContentType%3Dapplication%252Fpdf=AOvVaw1pEjNKt-CbUQDyyOTtG-_u>
> 
> I talked to Garmin tech support on the issue, and they indicated that if the 
> blue and gray wire coming out of the Standard Horizon radio (as noted on Page 
> 21 of the SH manual) is connected to the Garmin unit, the DSC information 
> would work (it does).  The gray and brown SH wire cannot be connected to the 
> brown input wire on the Garmin simultaneously (makes sense).  If the brown SH 
> wire is connected to the Garmin brown wire, the Garmin unit has to be 
> adjusted for the NMEA 0183 34.8K baud rate, and will display the AIS 
> information, but the radio will not get the DSC information.  
> 
> Any guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 1:46:31 PM EDT, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bruce — can you confirm the Garmin model number?  I’m not seeing anything for 
> that model.
> 
> I’m not sure why you can’t have both AIS and DSC on the same feed to the 
> Garmin; if I can take a look at the manual, we may be able to figure 
> something out.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have been exploring how to connect a Standard Horizon GX2100 to our Garmin 
>> Echomap Plus 84 SV to get AIS data to show up on the Garmin unit.  In short, 
>> I have the NMEA input and output wires connected, and in that manner, 
>> appears to be working well in that the VHF radio is showing GPS coordinates 
>> & such, and the DSC is working correctly.  
>> 
>> The AIS data (other commercial ships) shows up on the radio, they can be 
>> identified, but they don't show up on the Garmin unit.  The AIS data wire 
>> (brown) coming out of the Standard Horizon is

Re: Stus-List Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bruce — are you also feeding GPS position data from the Garmin to the GX2100?

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:58 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Fred,
> 
> The Garmin unit is the Echomap Plus 94 SV.  Here is the manual:  
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=11=2ahUKEwjZsrzZmIXjAhWtneAKHTCiAnUQFjAKegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.garmin.com%2Fpumac%2FechoMAP_Plus_60_70_90_Installation_EN.pdf=AOvVaw3YkkuZ7UeK6xWaB8W9ulaS
>  
> <https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=11=2ahUKEwjZsrzZmIXjAhWtneAKHTCiAnUQFjAKegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fstatic.garmin.com%2Fpumac%2FechoMAP_Plus_60_70_90_Installation_EN.pdf=AOvVaw3YkkuZ7UeK6xWaB8W9ulaS>
> 
> Here is the manual for the Standard Horizon GX2100:  
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwjzoMi6mYXjAhWyUt8KHb6WAYoQFjAAegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.standardhorizon.com%2FdownloadFile.cfm%3FFileID%3D5180%26FileCatID%3D92%26FileName%3DGX2000%255FGX2100%255FOwner%2527s%2520Manual.pdf%26FileContentType%3Dapplication%252Fpdf=AOvVaw1pEjNKt-CbUQDyyOTtG-_u
>  
> <https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=2ahUKEwjzoMi6mYXjAhWyUt8KHb6WAYoQFjAAegQIAhAC=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.standardhorizon.com%2FdownloadFile.cfm%3FFileID%3D5180%26FileCatID%3D92%26FileName%3DGX2000%255FGX2100%255FOwner%2527s%2520Manual.pdf%26FileContentType%3Dapplication%252Fpdf=AOvVaw1pEjNKt-CbUQDyyOTtG-_u>
> 
> I talked to Garmin tech support on the issue, and they indicated that if the 
> blue and gray wire coming out of the Standard Horizon radio (as noted on Page 
> 21 of the SH manual) is connected to the Garmin unit, the DSC information 
> would work (it does).  The gray and brown SH wire cannot be connected to the 
> brown input wire on the Garmin simultaneously (makes sense).  If the brown SH 
> wire is connected to the Garmin brown wire, the Garmin unit has to be 
> adjusted for the NMEA 0183 34.8K baud rate, and will display the AIS 
> information, but the radio will not get the DSC information.  
> 
> Any guidance you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 1:46:31 PM EDT, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bruce — can you confirm the Garmin model number?  I’m not seeing anything for 
> that model.
> 
> I’m not sure why you can’t have both AIS and DSC on the same feed to the 
> Garmin; if I can take a look at the manual, we may be able to figure 
> something out.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have been exploring how to connect a Standard Horizon GX2100 to our Garmin 
>> Echomap Plus 84 SV to get AIS data to show up on the Garmin unit.  In short, 
>> I have the NMEA input and output wires connected, and in that manner, 
>> appears to be working well in that the VHF radio is showing GPS coordinates 
>> & such, and the DSC is working correctly.  
>> 
>> The AIS data (other commercial ships) shows up on the radio, they can be 
>> identified, but they don't show up on the Garmin unit.  The AIS data wire 
>> (brown) coming out of the Standard Horizon is for high-speed NMEA data at a 
>> 34.8K baud rate, and per Garmin cannot be connected to the Garmin single 
>> wire without disabling the DSC, which is far more important.
>> 
>> However, if the Standard Horizon is connected to the NMEA 2000 (via Seatalk 
>> NG), then evidently the Garmin will show the AIS data.  
>> 
>> Does anyone know how to connect the Standard Horizon to the Seatalk NG 
>> system? 
>> 
>> I asked the question quite specifically of Standard Horizon and got the 
>> rather cryptic response shown below.
>> 
>> It's not the end of the world, but I'd like to connect it if workable.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance, 
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
>> 
>> 
>> - Forwarded Message -
>> From: Juan Hernandez mailto:j.hernan...@yaesu.com>>
>> To: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 11:12:20 AM EDT
>> Subject: RE: Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin 
>> Echomap Plus 94SV
>> 
>> Hello Bruce:
>> 
>>  
>> Thank you for contacting us with your email. The GX2100 can send out AIS 
>> data at 3840

Re: Stus-List Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

A quick look at the manual for the EchoMap Plus 72sv shows that the Garmin does 
NOT recognize any AIS sentences over NMEA0183 at all.  So it looks like you 
have NMEA2000 in your future to get things connected.  I’d suggest an Actisense 
NGW-1-STNG converter to get all of your data back and forth between the VHF and 
the plotter.  It will convert the 38,400 baud high-speed NMEA0183 from the 
radio into NMEA2000 (SeaTalkNG), and should allow GPS data to get to the VHF 
the same way.

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:45 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bruce — can you confirm the Garmin model number?  I’m not seeing anything for 
> that model.
> 
> I’m not sure why you can’t have both AIS and DSC on the same feed to the 
> Garmin; if I can take a look at the manual, we may be able to figure 
> something out.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I have been exploring how to connect a Standard Horizon GX2100 to our Garmin 
>> Echomap Plus 84 SV to get AIS data to show up on the Garmin unit.  In short, 
>> I have the NMEA input and output wires connected, and in that manner, 
>> appears to be working well in that the VHF radio is showing GPS coordinates 
>> & such, and the DSC is working correctly.  
>> 
>> The AIS data (other commercial ships) shows up on the radio, they can be 
>> identified, but they don't show up on the Garmin unit.  The AIS data wire 
>> (brown) coming out of the Standard Horizon is for high-speed NMEA data at a 
>> 34.8K baud rate, and per Garmin cannot be connected to the Garmin single 
>> wire without disabling the DSC, which is far more important.
>> 
>> However, if the Standard Horizon is connected to the NMEA 2000 (via Seatalk 
>> NG), then evidently the Garmin will show the AIS data.  
>> 
>> Does anyone know how to connect the Standard Horizon to the Seatalk NG 
>> system? 
>> 
>> I asked the question quite specifically of Standard Horizon and got the 
>> rather cryptic response shown below.
>> 
>> It's not the end of the world, but I'd like to connect it if workable.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance, 
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> 
>> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
>> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
>> 
>> 
>> - Forwarded Message -
>> From: Juan Hernandez mailto:j.hernan...@yaesu.com>>
>> To: Bruce Whitmore mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>>
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 11:12:20 AM EDT
>> Subject: RE: Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin 
>> Echomap Plus 94SV
>> 
>> Hello Bruce:
>> 
>>  
>> Thank you for contacting us with your email. The GX2100 can send out AIS 
>> data at 38400 on it brown output wire. So long as you have an input source 
>> on your SeaTalk network capable of receiving NMEA 0183 at 38400 baud rate, 
>> this should work without issue.
>> 
>>  
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Juan Hernandez
>> 
>> j.hernan...@yaesu.com <mailto:j.hernan...@yaesu.com>
>>  
>> Yaesu USA
>> 
>> Standard Horizon
>> 
>> 6125 Phyllis Drive
>> 
>> Cypress,  Ca 90630
>> 
>> Ph: 714-827-7600
>> 
>> Fx: 714-527-9472
>> 
>>  
>> www.yaesu.com <http://www.yaesu.com/>
>> www.standardhorizon.com <http://www.standardhorizon.com/>
>>  
>> This message (including any attachments) contains confidential information 
>> intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is protected by law. If 
>> you are not the intended recipient, you should delete this message. Any 
>> disclosure, copying, or distribution of this message, or the taking of any 
>> action based on it, is strictly prohibited.
>> 
>>  
>> From: Bruce Whitmore > <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>> 
>> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2019 2:16 PM
>> To: Juan Hernandez mailto:j.hernan...@yaesu.com>>
>> Subject: Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap 
>> Plus 94SV
>> 
>>  
>> Hello,
>> 
>>  
>> I have a GX2100 that was recently sent to you to have the MMSI removed and 
>> re-entered.  I have also recently replaced an old Raymarine chart plotter 
>> with a new Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV.  It is hooked to my marine gauges via 
>> Raymarine Se

Re: Stus-List Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bruce — can you confirm the Garmin model number?  I’m not seeing anything for 
that model.

I’m not sure why you can’t have both AIS and DSC on the same feed to the 
Garmin; if I can take a look at the manual, we may be able to figure something 
out.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 12:26 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have been exploring how to connect a Standard Horizon GX2100 to our Garmin 
> Echomap Plus 84 SV to get AIS data to show up on the Garmin unit.  In short, 
> I have the NMEA input and output wires connected, and in that manner, appears 
> to be working well in that the VHF radio is showing GPS coordinates & such, 
> and the DSC is working correctly.  
> 
> The AIS data (other commercial ships) shows up on the radio, they can be 
> identified, but they don't show up on the Garmin unit.  The AIS data wire 
> (brown) coming out of the Standard Horizon is for high-speed NMEA data at a 
> 34.8K baud rate, and per Garmin cannot be connected to the Garmin single wire 
> without disabling the DSC, which is far more important.
> 
> However, if the Standard Horizon is connected to the NMEA 2000 (via Seatalk 
> NG), then evidently the Garmin will show the AIS data.  
> 
> Does anyone know how to connect the Standard Horizon to the Seatalk NG 
> system? 
> 
> I asked the question quite specifically of Standard Horizon and got the 
> rather cryptic response shown below.
> 
> It's not the end of the world, but I'd like to connect it if workable.
> 
> Thanks in advance, 
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> - Forwarded Message -
> From: Juan Hernandez 
> To: Bruce Whitmore 
> Sent: Tuesday, June 25, 2019, 11:12:20 AM EDT
> Subject: RE: Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin 
> Echomap Plus 94SV
> 
> Hello Bruce:
> 
>  
> Thank you for contacting us with your email. The GX2100 can send out AIS data 
> at 38400 on it brown output wire. So long as you have an input source on your 
> SeaTalk network capable of receiving NMEA 0183 at 38400 baud rate, this 
> should work without issue.
> 
>  
> Best regards,
> 
> Juan Hernandez
> 
> j.hernan...@yaesu.com 
>  
> Yaesu USA
> 
> Standard Horizon
> 
> 6125 Phyllis Drive
> 
> Cypress,  Ca 90630
> 
> Ph: 714-827-7600
> 
> Fx: 714-527-9472
> 
>  
> www.yaesu.com 
> www.standardhorizon.com 
>  
> This message (including any attachments) contains confidential information 
> intended for a specific individual and purpose, and is protected by law. If 
> you are not the intended recipient, you should delete this message. Any 
> disclosure, copying, or distribution of this message, or the taking of any 
> action based on it, is strictly prohibited.
> 
>  
> From: Bruce Whitmore  
> Sent: Monday, June 24, 2019 2:16 PM
> To: Juan Hernandez 
> Subject: Connecting GX2100 to Seatalk NG or via NMEA 0813 to Garmin Echomap 
> Plus 94SV
> 
>  
> Hello,
> 
>  
> I have a GX2100 that was recently sent to you to have the MMSI removed and 
> re-entered.  I have also recently replaced an old Raymarine chart plotter 
> with a new Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV.  It is hooked to my marine gauges via 
> Raymarine Seatalk NG.  I have connected the GX2100 to the Garmin unit using 
> the green, blue and gray wires, and the VHF appears to properly display the 
> coordinates.  However, the GPS does not have another wire connection so that 
> it can show the AIS information.  Is there a way to connect the GX2100 to the 
> Seatalk NG backbone in such a way that the AIS information will show up on 
> the Garmin unit?  
> 
> 
> Thank you for your insights,
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigid Boom Vang?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 for Garhauer.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2019, at 10:41 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Garhauer
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Jun 25, 2019, at 11:30 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> My rigid boom vang has seen better days and I’m looking to do a replacement. 
>> Can anyone recommend a good option for a boat in the 37-40’ range that won’t 
>> break the bank? 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>> 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1974 C 35 Mk2 mast wiring [was "smile"]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

If you’re going to have the mast down, definitely replace the antenna and 
antenna cable.  And if you can, replace ALL of the mast wiring, and switch to 
LED for your nav lights (steaming, anchor, masthead tri-color) and deck lights.

These guys have nice stuff for LED lighting: www.marinebeam.com 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 24, 2019, at 1:51 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I find that my radio seems to have very short range, the cable and the 
> antenna may have been the original, should I consider changing the cable and 
> antenna?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower (Matt Janssen)

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Alfred at Schooner rebuilds/remans tons of diesel engines per year; he markets 
his service es through www.dieselenginetrader.com 
.  He’s probably worked on more Yanmar 
diesels in his life than any of us could ever even guess.  His son, Walkie, is 
the acknowledged diesel maintenance guy for all of western Lake Superior.

A friend just repowered from an old Volvo to an Alfred-reman’ed Yanmar 3HM; and 
aside from having to do all the related wiring and plumbing himself, he’s very 
happy with the result.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI (also at Port Superior…)

> On Jun 24, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Dirk Niles via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I had never heard of Schooner Bay Marina and it turns out they are less than 
> 10 miles from my marina on Lake Superior. I'll reach out to some locals for 
> any background. Google comments referenced a concern about a core refund.
> 
> 
> 
> Dirk Niles 
> C 34 "Great Joy" 
> Port Superior, WI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Matt Janssen  >
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Mon, 24 Jun 2019 11:56:31 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 1GM10 Repower
> About five years into a six month refit and the block in my 1GM10 has let go. 
> 
> What started off as top end rebuild has "progressed" into a full repower 
> project. Given the cramped (shall we say intimate?) engine bay 
> accommodations, i am inclined to drop in a 1gm10 reman and hopefully save 
> some of the season. Unfortunately, i am having a bit of trouble sourcing one. 
> The only one i've been able to find is located at Schooner Bay Marina 
> Wisconsin; full rebuild with 1-year warranty.   
> 
> For anyone who have been through a similar experience - any suggestions on 
> vendors and/or lessons learnt the hard way?  Does anyone have any experience 
> with Schooner Bay Marina? 
> 
> best,
> matt
> 
> 
> --
> Matthew Janssen
> C 27 MkV 
> Eduam
> South Amboy, NJ
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I may be a bit lazy, as I’m a cruiser and not a racer; or maybe it’s just the 
way the reef points are set up on my main.  But I don’t even reeve the first 
main any more.  If things pick up, I go straight to the second reef.  Less 
fiddling, and I’ve never missed the sail area between the first and second 
reef.  The headsail tends to be the primary driver on our boats, anyway.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 18, 2019, at 1:28 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Until it is really blowing, I always prefer to have both (preferably small) 
> sails up. This provides for better balance and gives me more options for 
> adjusting the sails. This is particularly helpful when going upwind, because 
> the two sails work together. If I were in your place, I would try to take the 
> second reef on the main and let some of the jib out. The furled jib has an 
> advantage that you can reduce it or unfurl a bit, as the situation warrants.
>  
> If reefing the main was not the option (as you mentioned), I would do what 
> Andrew suggested – I would drop the main and use the jib alone. Different 
> boats behave differently in that situation (you may have problems tacking and 
> you may have quite a bit of a lee helm), but again, your furled sail can be 
> easily adjusted up or down, as the situation changes.
>  
> To be completely honest, I would have dropped to the second reef at 20 kt. 
> and adjust the jib (more initially, less eventually). I always subscribe to 
> the idea to “do what is necessary, before it is necessary”. Additionally, at 
> high wind, I prefer a smaller main – or you get way too much weather helm.
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List stainless round cowl vents

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Try this:  
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Victory-CH4360-Stainless-Steel-4-Round-Cowl-Vent-w-Deck-Plate-135-1048/302171082684?epid=2111937729=item465acccfbc:g:ClwAAOSw6DtYWCp0
 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 18, 2019, at 8:20 AM, John via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hello everyone 
> 
> We are almost finished with our two year complete refit and restoration of 
> our Landfall 38. We need to find a complete set of stainless cowl vents. New, 
> or used. 
> 
> Thank you 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m here — but haven’t done anything quite like this with a tiller, so I’m 
waiting to see if other owners of that model chime in.  And yes, I think James 
is correct, the EV-100 tiller pilot is under-sized for this vessel.

Keep in mind that within certain parameters, you can mix and match autopilot 
course computers and drives.  In Richard’s case, it was a Raymarine system with 
an Octopus hydraulic linear drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 29, 2019, at 2:28 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would highly recommend you contact Fred STreet of this List; 
> f...@postaudio.net  
> Fred was able spec and procure everything needed to install an under deck 
> Octopus autopilot for my 37; its tight, but it worksvery nice to have 
> Fred as a resource as well... he has patiently helped me even when I ask 
> repeat questions!
> 
> Richard
> sv Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: James Bibb via CnC-List 
> To: Chuck S via CnC-List 
> Cc: James Bibb 
> Sent: Wed, May 29, 2019 11:31 am
> Subject: Stus-List Auto pilot advice 34-36R
> 
> I’ve given up on my Raymarine Ev-100 Tiller pilot.  It the motor drive 
> alway’s kicks out and it’s a year old.  I’m assuming it’s under-powered for 
> the size of boat I’m asking it to maneuver.  My electronics are B 
> Triton2’s….looking at the B pilot model so that I can utilize my chart 
> plotter, etc.  Any experience placing a ram underneath the stern rudder tube 
> deck plate in these models?  there’s a location for a pedestal for other 
> models instead of a tiller.  I hope to mount it underneath the deck plate but 
> outside of the hull with a arm off of the rudder post below the tiller.  I am 
> considering a ram style for the movement. 
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> James Bibb
> C 34-36R
> Darwin’s Folly
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cored hull and transducer, 1994 C/40+

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bruce — if you’re going to have two depth transducers running at the same time, 
you’d better check to make sure they’re running on different frequencies; 
otherwise, you’re going to experience some strange results…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 18, 2019, at 6:25 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I bought a Garmin Echomap Plus 94SV and transducer that is on sale at West 
> Marine.  This comes with a good transducer that will map out the bottom, act 
> as a fish finder, etc.On most boats, the transducer can be mounted in the 
> bilge and will fire through the fiberglass sufficiently.  We, however, have a 
> cored hull.
> 
> If worse comes to worst, we get depth data via the existing transducer, but 
> I'd like the added functionality.
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a spot around the keel where the hull is not 
> cored and it might work?
> 
> Does anyone have a drawing that shows where the hull is, and is not cored?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat? And more 35-2 decision avoidance...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Shawn — am I correct in recalling you’re talking Canadian dollars?  If so, 
$21500 CAD is around $16000 USD at today’s exchange rate.  That’s a pretty low 
amount for a decent shape 35-foot C, even given its quirks.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 29, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm glad to see such great dialog on this topic, and appreciate all the 
> varied responses. Someone on the C FB group posted a video from a race in 
> Ladysmith on Saturday, with only 3 boats braving the 25-40kn winds. I was 
> sitting on the 35-2 at the dock that day and felt her shudder under the 
> gusts. In the video I noticed how well the C 29 (mk2 I think) handled the 
> conditions, cutting cleanly through the waves, while another boat, in the 
> 32-35' range, with longer overhangs, was bobbing and hobby-horsing in the 
> small chop. Of course, the C easily outsailed the larger boat, and looking 
> far more comfortable doing it.
> 
> My wife and I spent some time on the boat last night with plan to make a 
> final decision - we made a list of pros/cons for the boat, but still couldn't 
> make a final decision, except to agree that we both feel it is overpriced. 
> There are two many things that need attention before we can feel good about 
> this boat:
> 
> Electrical - she had a dream that the boat had an electrical fire. I might 
> put this down to her fears, if I hadn't found the live battery cables for the 
> third battery bank sitting uninsulated - these cables making contact could 
> have easily started a fire. So I have to wonder what else is at risk.
> 
> Cleaning - the boat is dirty inside and will require several days of 
> cleaning. It is tidy, but looks like it hasn't had a good deep clean in 
> years. The cushions may be original, and there is a musty boat smell which is 
> likely in the foam. The zippers are seized, so removing the covers (they are 
> otherwise in ok shape - oatmeal coloured fabric) may destroy them. The seat 
> backs are stapled in, so there is no good way to clean them aside from a 
> surface clean. So the old boat smell may not be easy to resolve, and new 
> cushions is several boat bucks I expect, even if we do some work ourselves.
> 
> Interior condition - many holes in the ceiling liner, some of them filled 
> with epoxy leaving yellow stains which may be impossible to remove, even if I 
> can cover the holes. Most of the teak panels have some kind of holes or 
> damage in them, not horrible, but still detracts from the feel of the 
> interior. No water damage fortunately. 
> 
> So the boat is being hauled tomorrow (I paid for). I will call the owner 
> today to discuss, but I doubt he will be willing to make any concessions on 
> the deal, so that may be the end of it. If he is willing to drop the price to 
> $20K so I can put toward new electrical and cushion cleaning/repair, there is 
> a chance we would go ahead, but this still leaves a whole lot of work for me 
> to do in two weeks. 
> 
> I just keep hoping another suitable boat will come along to make it easier to 
> walk away from this one, but anything less than another 35 will seem like a 
> step down.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C as offshore boat?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

He seems to be doing fine; but I think he’s getting “Mexico on the brain” after 
all of this time down there…      Sometimes his emails are a little weird; but 
then he comes right back with another that’s totally fine.

BTW, I helped him sail part of the way down the California coast from San 
Francisco to Mexico when he was heading down there; and the LF38 did just fine 
in large quartering seas and fairly high winds.  I may be a bit biased, as I 
own one myself… but I’ve been out on Lake Superior in some truly nasty stuff.  
The boat handles most situations just fine, probably better than the crew.  
Before the “flame war” starts about lake sailing vs. ocean sailing, please note 
that I’ve got my fair share of bluewater miles under my belt (including 
Tropical Storm Sean in the North Atlantic in the late fall of 2011), so I have 
something to compare to.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On Apr 24, 2019, at 2:52 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We have a C lister in Mexico right now. He sailed there in a Landfall 38.
> Anyone heard from Wally lately?
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Dual purpose of windlass electrical wires?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Agreed — the chances of something going horribly wrong at the worst possible 
time are high when you try to make something work double-duty like this.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 5, 2019, at 8:51 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would not do this. Not because of electrical reasons, the thick wire 
> running forward can certainly carry a few amps of solar power, but for safety 
> reasons. That wire is probably fused at 100-150 amps or more and is – or 
> should be – only hot when the windlass switch is on. I would not want that 
> live 24/7/365. Just go on Ebay and look for genuinedealz and get some Ancor 
> 12/2 to run aft with its own appropriate fuse.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-2-AWG-Gauge-Marine-Wire-Tinned-Copper-Boat-Cable-Duplex-UL1426-Made-in-USA/380908203762?hash=item58afe5eef2:m:mUlmS-6BCWVm7fpaLUYZRnA=650257024280
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

One other thing to keep in mind: if you do damage a pole, and it’s carbon 
fiber, it’s going to be a pricey fix.  With aluminum, you can usually remove 
and reuse the end fittings and get new tubing; or if the damage is near an end 
fitting, cut the damaged tubing off and reinstall the end fitting on a shorter, 
but still usable, pole.

— Fred 

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 3, 2019, at 1:00 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> That is kind of variable. My aluminum spinnaker pole is heavy and awkward for 
> me to deal with. I would LOVE the weight reduction of a carbon fiber pole. It 
> would make a hard job easy.
> No budget for it through and I can handle the pole, so I do. If I was 5 feet 
> tall and 100 pounds, a carbon pole would be more of a requirement than a 
> luxury.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rib for Sale?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I purchased a Mercury fiberglass RIB with Hypalon fabric from Defender a couple 
of years ago; they have older models they clear out from time to time.  The 
oldest one showing on the website is 2017, and they’re selling it for around 
$2000:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C215570%7C1794282%7C1794293=4184988
 


I’ve been very happy with mine so far; it’s under 80 lbs, and I can easily use 
the spinnaker topping lift to get it up on the foredeck by myself for storage.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Mar 1, 2019, at 3:56 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I just got a new 10' aluminum Zodiac rib for $1850 here in Newport. Been 
> using it with a small outboard this winter and am so far very pleased with it.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI 
> USA02842
> 
> www.burtonsailing.com 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>  
> +401 965-5260

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 on AwlWood — I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
>  
> from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Bow roller question for Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sam — I typically anchor with the line over the roller.  Same sort of setup as 
you have, but a larger Fortress; and we anchor in sand up in the Apostle 
Islands.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 21, 2019, at 3:32 PM, Sam Tunanidas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a Landfall 38 with a double bow roller. I am in the northern 
> Chesapeake Bay. I only use 10' of chain and the rest is 8 plait anchor line. 
> The bottom around here is mostly mud and I get incredible holding power from 
> my Fortress 23. My question is is it okay to just run the line over the bow 
> roller then cleat it off or should I run the line through one of the 
> port/starboard bow openings you run your dock lines through? Thanks in 
> advance to all responders.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Yanmar warning buzzer

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that the piezo alarms used in the Yanmar engines have diode 
circuitry built into them to allow multiple senders to be attached without them 
interacting; you’re not going to find this in anything from DigiKey.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 14, 2019, at 1:55 AM, sender via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> John:
> For electronic items have a look at Digikey.com I've sourced parts from them 
> found them efficient.
> 
> $75.00 for a decent quality panel mount buzzer that's waterproof doesn't 
> sound unreasonable to me.  A circuit board mountable buzzer element will be 
> cheap, but then you have a project to make it otherwise suitable.
> 
> Eric
> 
> On Sun, Jan 13, 2019 at 11:16 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Ours has given up the ghost (gee it’s only 37 years old J).  Is a Hitachi WI 
> 1-05 dual purpose for low oil pressure and high temp.  5 pin connector.  4 
> pins are used so not quite sure how the wiring would work if went the Yanmar 
> 3GM engine = type B panel.  2 1/16”hole.  Issue is locating one of these – 
> with the caveat of a reasonable price.  Did the Google search.  Found one on 
> flea bay but $75 seems like a lot when can get a single purpose piezo buzzer 
> for about $15 and just need to change the wiring.
> 
>  
> 
> Any suggestions for sourcing or alternative strategy?
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — actually, using two separate hoses is a requirement; it’s not safe to 
have any “taps” or tees outside of the propane locker, so all hoses must split 
after the solenoid in the locker and be continuous runs to the end point.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 9, 2019, at 10:15 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Personally, I would use two separate hoses for the devices, both led from the 
> solenoid.  The Trident solenoid is cheap and rusts quickly—I prefer the made 
> by (I can’t think of the name right now) but it is made of aluminum and 
> stainless steel.  There is a lot of condensation that is created in a propane 
> locker—this enables the heavy rusting.
> 
> I also really like the propane controls with the sensor(s) and alarms.  If 
> you need more info, contact me off-list.
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
> 
> On Jan 9, 2019, at 1:22 PM, T power via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
>> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 
>> 
>> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 
>> 21 feet. 
>> 
>> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 
>> 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 
>> 1220-1411.
>> 
>> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Tom Power 
>> Invictus
>> C 30 MK1
>> Fredericton, NB
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Propane hose

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Tom — I had hoses made up when I added my Dickinson fireplace years ago; I’m 
pretty sure everything was 1/4” ID with 3/8” flare fittings.  I’ve got the 
usual three-burner range with over in the galley, in addition to the fireplace; 
no issues using them simultaneously.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 9, 2019, at 2:24 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks josh and Doug for you thoughts. The issue I'm running into, it is 
> extremely hard to find 3/8" id hose in the proper length. I'm in the process 
> of building the propane locker, my plan is to have vapor tight fittings for 
> the hose and wiring for the solenoid, the hoses will be complete from the 
> tank to the appliance. 
> 
> I can basically get any length I want in 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare 
> fittings, I'm just not sure there will be enough volume for the appliance.
> 
>  I ordered a hose for the stove, I thought it was 3/8" id but turned out to 
> be 1/4" id with 3/8" Female Flare fittings on each end. 
> 
> I guess if the hose does not supply enough volume I can order "custom made" 
> hoses (very pricey) and swap them out. Any holes drilled will be the same 
> diameter due to the size of the fittings, just a bit of a PITA,
> 
> 
> Tom Power 
> Invictus
> C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> From: CnC-List  > on behalf of svrebeccaleah via 
> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 9, 2019 4:06 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: svrebeccaleah
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propane hose
>  
> Hi Tom,
> This from West Marine. 
> 
> Supply Hoses 
> To carry the gas from the regulator to the stove or heater, use LPG supply 
> hose of the correct length. Note that while these hoses are only carrying 0.5 
> psi, they have a 350 psi working pressure rating, so they are dramatically 
> stronger than they have to be. Each supply hose should run continuously from 
> inside the propane tank enclosure to the appliance: this is not a case where 
> you can chain a bunch of fittings together because you ended up a little 
> short on hose. Use a Vapor-Tight Straight-Thru fitting where the hose exits 
> your propane locker. Supply hoses connect to the propane appliance using a 
> 3/8" female flare swivel and connect to the solenoid with a 3/8" male NPT 
> adapter.
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Sv Rebecca Leah 
> LH39
> Port Orchard YC wa.
> 
>  Original message 
> From: T power via CnC-List  > 
> Date: 1/9/19 10:22 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: T power mailto:sv_invic...@outlook.com>> 
> Subject: Stus-List Propane hose
> 
> Hi Everyone, I have a propane question. I'm installing a Dickinson 
> Mediterranean stove with oven and a Dickinson P9000 propane heater. 
> 
> The hose needed for the stove is 12 feet, the hose needed for the heater is 
> 21 feet. 
> 
> My question is will I have enough flow (volume) if I use 1/4 id hose verses 
> 3/8 id hose. The regulator I plan to use is a two stage Trident P/N 1220-1411.
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Tom Power 
> Invictus
> C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boat monitoring[was "Smart Watch apps & connectivity']

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Try this:

https://floathub.com 

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 27, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David Miles via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Great questions. As an additional thought, is there a way we can monitor our 
> boat's power at the marina? We have had some issues with the main breaker 
> being kicked off, and therefore heater is off.
> There is wifi at the dock, so we were wondering if there is an app that would 
> notify us if the power went out. Any ideas?
> 
> All the best for the New Year Everyone. 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Depth sounder replacement

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mark — I would NOT consider the i40 system for wind; your only choice for a 
wind transducer is one suitable only for power boats.

The i70 is a nice system; and yes, you do get water temp with it, as the 
transducer is a single depth/speed/temp transducer.  And you get a much better 
wind transducer.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 18, 2018, at 3:10 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'd appreciate some advice regarding a non-functioning depth sounder.
> 
> Near the end of the season my depth sounder started reading 0 no matter the 
> condition.  I couldn't find any obvious explanation for the problem - but I'm 
> thinking that the Autohelm depth and speedo are original to the 1986 boat - 
> so likely better to suck it up and replace than to jury rig a repair or sink 
> money into a new transducer.
> 
> Should I just replace the broken depth and worry about the speedo at at 
> another time?  Anyone think it's better to do a whole package?
> 
> I have a Raymarine wheel pilot (waiting for me to install) - so I assume the 
> smart move would be to stick with the same product line. Such as - Raymarine 
> i40 Depth System with Thru-Hull Transducer E70142.  With the Binnacle a new 
> depth sounder $340, and a new speedo ($350) combined for almost $700 - would 
> I be better to add a whole package with wind instruments?
> 
> Raymarine i70s Instrument Value Pack Speed Depth Wind T70226 -  
> https://tinyurl.com/y9zumft6  - $1600 cdn at 
> Binnacle (I wouldn't mind if I could get water temp as well but don't know if 
> that's an option with Raymarine).
> 
> Another option - someone on this list suggested SailTimer as a better option 
> for wind instruments.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> Mark
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Combination padlocks

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dennis — I added a fourth Abus 4-digit lock this past year, to chain my ladder 
to the cradle for the off-season (I kept forgetting the keys, and it’s a 3-1/2 
hr drive...).  It seems on a par with the three I bought about twelve years ago 
with the boat.


— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave NW
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Dec 13, 2018, at 1:52 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> First, a general note.  When I had my marine repair business, I recommended 
> to my clients that they have a combination lock for access to the boat.  
> Doesn't do much good if the boat is sinking and folks can't get into your 
> boat because the key is with you miles away.  A phone call to get the combo 
> granting entry to fix the problem can save your boat.
> 
> OK, now for my question.  I was looking at buying a couple more 4 digit 
> combination locks.  I've long been a fan of the Sesamee K0436 4 digit 
> combination locks.  I have several on Touche'.  They are 20+ years old and 
> work great.  The Abus 4 digit combo locks are OK also.
> 
> The Master lock version is OK except the dials spin way too easily.  You have 
> to hold the numbers that you just set to keep them in place while you set the 
> next number.  It's irritating. 
> 
> However, as I was reading reviews on the Sesamee and Abus brands, I seems 
> like both Sesamee and Abus may have cheapened their locks.  Has any lister 
> purchased a Sesamee in the last couple years that can shed light on the 
> current manufacturing quality?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m pretty sure the hull IS cored; and that same yard redid about 1/3 of a 
cored C 34 hull a few years back, so they definitely have the skills.  Not 
sure I’d want to see that bill, though…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 1:11 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a long chat with John Hoenig, at the yard that is listing her.  
> According to him, the repairs done after the initial damage were not enough 
> and over time it just got worse. That said, he was confident that he could 
> hand the repairs.  He also told me that the hull was balsa cored...so my 
> comfort level in his competence is a little soft.  The fiberglass/kevlar hull 
> is definitely not cored balsa and, may be significantly more difficult to 
> repair. 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Several years back, he asked me to redesign the battery switching and charging 
system for him; I did so, and after he saw the drawing and got my invoice, he 
said he wasn’t going to pay me because it looked something like the Blue Sea 
circuit diagram online.  Then he went ahead and installed my design himself.

Any questions?   

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 6, 2018, at 12:14 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I can validate Fred’s comment.  Totally. 
> 
> Get Outlook for iOS <https://aka.ms/o0ukef>
> 
> 
> On Thu, Dec 6, 2018 at 11:35 AM -0600, "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Don’t sugar-coat it, Fred.  Tell us what you really think.
>  
> From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2018 8:54 AM
> To: David via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Frederick G Street <mailto:f...@postaudio.net>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]
>  
> That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
> reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
> several years in Bayfield, WI. 
>  
> If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1990 37+/40 For Sale [Not Mine!]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That’s Beau Geste, a hurricane “rescue” boat.  She was sunk, then quickly 
reflected and cleaned out.  The owner is a real d!@k… he was on my dock for 
several years in Bayfield, WI.

If it goes below $30k, I’ll take a look…   

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 5, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I ran across this listing.  WIll someone please buy this boat to get it off 
> the market.  It is listed way too low and is ruining thew 37+ values!
> 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1990/c-c-37-40-3169741/ 
>  
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Instruments

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — sorry for the delay, I’ve been out of ‘Net range (yes, there are still 
places on earth like that…)

Yes, I can price these for you; please contact me off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Dec 1, 2018, at 5:15 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Our ancient Standard Horizon suite of wind, speed and depth works well except 
> the apparent wind.  Am suspecting the sending unit electronics are in need of 
> replacement but none available.  The depth and speed work great.  We do not 
> have auto pilot and do not integrate with GPS, chart plotter or AIS as no need
>  
> We intend to upgrade the suite of wind, speed and depth and ask opinions of 
> which brand, etc to consider.  Am inclined to the Raymarine I60 / I50 suite 
> due to read outs are very readable, proven technology, lower cost, ready 
> availability of repair parts, can integrate with NMEA 2000 etc etc.  Hole 
> size in hull is same as current,  Would need to drill new holes in bulkhead 
> but have the room
>  
> https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=raymarine-i50-i60-depth-speed-and-wind-systems-pack=-1|344|2028690|2028820=2086335
>  
> 
>  
>  
> Thoughts of the group?  Fred is this something you can deal with?
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Engine oil

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Shell Rotella, straight 30 weight.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 21, 2018, at 2:30 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have been using Delo 30 in my Yanmar. 
> What you use?
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor chain advice

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — unless you’re anchoring deep or in tropical waters (read: coral) all 
the time, I would think 90 feet of chain (over two boat lengths) would work for 
your type of sailing.  This would easily give you a 5:1 scope in fifteen feet 
of water without going onto the rope rode.  And the size and type of chain 
should be fine.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 20, 2018, at 9:29 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I've got an old simpson lawrence sprint 1500 windlass on Rum Runner with an 
> RC172 gypsy.  This gypsy is for 5/16” G43 HT ISO chain.  Currently I can't 
> identify the existing chain but it certainly is the wrong size for the gypsy 
> and the measurements don't match G4 or BBB chain.  I have 45lb CQR that came 
> with the boat.  So, my plan currently is to go with a new chain and shackle.  
> I was thinking of going all chain at about 275 feet of the 5/16 G4.  This is 
> by no means a small investment!  Defender has a 275 foot 1/2 drum for just 
> under $800.  this is the cheapest I can find by a few hundred bucks.  the 
> shackle will add another $100...  I may be able to save a few bucks by 
> waiting for the spring sale.
> 
> My question is really more of search for validation.  Does this solution seem 
> well suited for my situation.  Currently we are coastal cruisers that do a 
> week out a couple times a summer around the cape and islands but, I do have 
> visions of venturing further.
> 
> my only choices for a gypsy is the current one or replace that with one that 
> takes 3/8 BBB chain.   That chain is actually more expensive, heavier and has 
> a lower working load limit.
> 
> Does all chain seem like overkill?  I could also buy a pail of 90 feet 5/16 
> G4 for $300.  the weight difference is about 200lbs over the 275 feet of 
> chain.  My T40 has a displacement of 17,250lbs according to sailboat data.  
> the mantus website recommends 5/16 G4 chain for boats up to 40 feet and 
> 20,000 lbs.  I know I'm nearing the limit but, I think this is the most 
> practical solution for now.   If I were to head off into the sunset, I 
> believe I would upgrade the windlass, chain and anchor but, for now...
> 
> I'd also like to throw a word out for John over at SL Spares.  We've been 
> emailing for a month or two figuring out exactly what I have and my options 
> going forward.  really great service if you happen to have one of these old 
> simpson lawence units!
> 
> -- 
> Danny
> T40
> Rum Runner IV
> Mattapoisett, MA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anyone missing a boat? Ghost boat in the Gulf

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Or maybe he ended up like this guy: 
https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-3469044/Mummified-body-German-adventurer-vanished-inside-drifting-yacht-Philippines.html
 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 16, 2018, at 8:28 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Maybe the owner was taking a power nap.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List engine oil filters and Car talk

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’ve used the NAPA Gold filters on my 3QM for years; they seem to work well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 3, 2018, at 4:40 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> NAPA will usually tell you who made their filters.  They also often have a 
> dissected or cross sectional view available at the counter.  My assessment is 
> that they are a high quality filter though I have no imperical data. 
> 
> Josh 
> 
> On Sat, Nov 3, 2018, 5:03 PM Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Anyone have experience with the NAPA Gold filters?  I've heard from car 
> people that they're very good.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stu at the Vous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Well, if we get Stu out, we’d better get Gladys out, too…

—  Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 2, 2018, at 9:27 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any way we can make it a group project to get Stu out for the next one?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> DCSI
> 410-966-7255
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Annapolis Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Thanks to Josh and everyone for getting this together.  I wasn’t able to get 
back there on Sunday; but I don’t think I would have survived any more of 
Frenchie’s “Pain Killers”…   

It was great to meet everyone face-to-face.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 29, 2018, at 1:38 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> ... And as far west as Minnesota!  I'll be sure to compile input from 
> everyone as to where next year's Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous should be.  I'm 
> getting better with organizing and what works/doesn't work.
> 
> I absolutely need help!  If anyone has ideas or requests where to hold next 
> year's rendezvous, please make your case.  I try to appeal to the masses but 
> I don't know all the options.  If someone knows something that worked or 
> didn't work, that they want continued or discontinued please let me know.
> 
> As for the 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous please post your pictures/videos 
> to the Facebook page for everyone to see.  Everyone else is welcome to view. 
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/2018MACCR/ 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Oct 29, 2018, 9:50 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who showed up and thanks Josh! I can’t recall eating and 
> drinking so well in some time. We had Canada to Louisiana represented, so if 
> people can come that far no way was a little rain stopping me.
> 
> We need to do this again!
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C 35 MK I
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Annapolis Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

No worries; I’m on the plane and should be there in a few hours!

— Fred


— Fred

Frederick G Street
13925 277th Ave NW
Zimmerman MN   55398

f...@postaudio.net
612.839.6565 cell

> On Oct 26, 2018, at 9:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred, 
> I hope you don't mind but we got going without you! 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Annapolis Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

See you tomorrow afternoon!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 26, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am leaving Kent Island by boat early Saturday. If all goes well, I'll have 
> a good ride with a NE wind. We may be able to stop by tonight at the dock by 
> car.
> 
> Joe
> Coquina
> 
> ps - Go away Willa sick of hurricanes and remnants thereof this year!!!
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Willa update from Wal

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I just received the following update from Wal Bryant on Stella Blue down in 
Mexico:

> Hi Fred. It's over. The mountains did the job and we really didn't see much 
> wind. I've seen much worse in a spontaneous squall. (I mean weather, not 
> drunken women.) I was really worried about surge and swell. But I've seen 
> bigger waves. I wouldn't call it a "non-event" but I probably could have left 
> the boat as it was and everything would have been fine. But for some reason I 
> think if I hadn't prepared then the serious sh_t would have happened.

So all is well in Margaritaville…   

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pressure Testing water lines...

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Wear your foulies…   

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 23, 2018, at 1:46 PM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Was going to hook up a garden sprayer to each individual water line to 
> determine if and where there are any leaks.  
> 
> May need a gauge to  really measure.  Any suggestions?
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C vs. Wilma :(

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Here’s a post from Wal Bryant on Stella Blue (Landfall 38) in Mexico (posted 
with his permission); he’s in the more direct path of Willa right now:

> And so it begins. Willa to the North, Vicente to the south. And me in the 
> middle. (I think that's a classic quote from Clint Eastwood's 'For a Fistful 
> of Dollars.') 
> The worry is Willa. It's going to hit to the North, and with anticlockwise 
> rotation the wind and swell is going to come straight from the Southwest. The 
> Bay is wide open from that direction, and yesterday Mike Michael Eric 
> Danielson 
> 
>  at PV Sailing said the swell forecast was for 20 foot swells. I've sailed my 
> boat through 20 foot seas, and used the EFF word a few times. Having them hit 
> shallow water and slam into the breakwater will be something to watch. I 
> think it's entirely possible that waves will wash over the breakwater into 
> the marina. The breakwater itself is relatively new, and hasn't filled in 
> with sand and sediment. When there is surge outside, boats inside still move 
> around. A lot.
> So I spent today adding dock lines, and setting up spare dock lines, and 
> taping around hatches that have leaky gaskets, and making an inventory of 
> rope. I have more rope on this boat than is reasonable. People laugh at me. 
> But once, a couple of years ago, a barge broke loose and I had 400 feet of 
> rope. It came in handy. 
> As soon as I was done getting my lines and my backup lines ready, the rain 
> started. The hurricane is still two days off. This is just the outer fringe.
> Walking around this morning, I seemed to be the only one preparing. I saw 
> someone doing brightwork (varnishing teak.) I mentioned the situation to 
> someone else, and she said "We talked to Long-Timers and they said it's no 
> big deal." Well, I've been in Pacific Mexico for nine years, and this is only 
> the second time I've set up to get hit by sh_t. And it's the first time I've 
> pulled a couple of lines over to the pilings two feet above the spring tide 
> high water mark. 
> I've seen 50 with gusts to 70, and that was at anchor where the boat was 
> pointed into the wind. I'm really not worried about wind, I'm worried about 
> wind swell.
> I think tomorrow a bunch of people will be running around in the rain doing 
> what I did this morning. I'll be inside the boat making sure my bilge pumps 
> are clear and the through hulls are closed and the last minute details are 
> done. Then I'll adjust the lines to move the boat boat away from the dock, 
> put on my Helly Hansen jacket and hope that the people who said "It's 
> nothing" were right and I was totally wrong. I really hope that all I've done 
> is give my spare dock lines a good rinse.

Let’s wish him luck.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 12:16 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.washingtonpost.com/weather/2018/10/22/powerful-east-coast-storm-may-develop-friday-into-weekend/?utm_term=.a559c2294827
>  
> 
>  
> Yikes!
>  
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Glenn — you can turn down the brightness using the power button; this works 
well for nighttime use.  But yes, you’re correct, they don’t have a specific 
night color scheme.

I don’t think the Lighthouse charts are going to be as good in Canadian waters 
as the Navionics+ North America charts.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 4:19 PM, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> Just wondered if I am correct that Raymarine Axiom 9, which I have with 
> Navionics+, still does not have a night mode similar to Garmin?  When I 
> discovered that, I contacted their support guy (Charles, Chuck) and he 
> indicated they did not have a night mode.  He started a ticket on that 
> request to determine if one could be added.  What in the world were they 
> thinking.  
> 
> Secondly, I could swap out Navionics+ for the Raymarine charts, but wonder 
> what you think of both?  I will be traveling up into Canadian waters (Lake 
> Huron, Georgian Bay) this summer and wonder if there is a difference in what 
> one sees on the charts?
> 
> Thank you,
> Glenn Gambel, 1981 C 36
> Wind N Spirits

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous - this weekend!

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bring your foulies; it looks like rain on Saturday.  See you there!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 22, 2018, at 10:09 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The rendezvous is this weekend.  Bunch of folks have responded they are 
> attending.
> 
> The agenda remains flexible.  Apparently the only fixed activity is a pot 
> luck on the docks Friday night.
> 
> The Admiral and I are looking forward to meeting a bunch of fellow C 
> owners.  We'll be there Saturday afternoon.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m gonna use the Navionics app on my iPhone to find my way to the rendezvous 
next weekend…      I’m looking forward to actually meeting some of you face to 
face for the first time!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 19, 2018, at 8:18 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I also have Navionics on my iPhone, OpenCPN on an Android tablet and a small 
> text only handheld GPS so consider my system a bit multiplicative.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chris — once you’ve decided on a make/model but before you purchase, please 
email me — as you’re new to the list, you probably aren’t aware of this, but I 
used to design and install marine electronics and electrical systems for a 
living.  I’ve kept my vendor relationships active, and offer discount pricing 
(pretty much dealer cost) to people on the C list as a courtesy.  I can get 
most manufacturers’ gear (not B…) at good pricing; for instance, your cost on 
the lowest-end Raymarine Axiom 7” plotter with Navionics+ US/Canada charts 
would be $780.00 plus shipping (list $899.99).  Email me off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 19, 2018, at 7:31 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've seen a few of those listed. I'll check out prices!
> 
> On Friday, October 19, 2018, 8:30:41 AM EDT, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I installed a Si-Tex chartplotter on my last boat.  I used it for a few 
> years before selling the boat and it was fine.  I think the 7" version 
> was 1/2 the price of the 7" Raymarine.  I think it was about $600
> 
> Danny
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List inexpensive chartplotter

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chris — what other electronics do you have aboard that you might want to 
integrate with a plotter (especially autopilot, but also instruments)?  That 
might inform decision regarding whose product to put on.  Having said that, the 
smaller Axiom potters from Raymarine are very nice, and the price is reasonable.

Otherwise, there are several smaller Garmins out there that are good, as well; 
it just depends on the features you’re looking for and the charts that are 
available.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 19, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> So I'm a bit torn over what to do here, the boat has a mount for an iPad and 
> the past owner use the iPad with Navigation apps and I am tempted to go that 
> route, but I know that iPads have their drawbacks with visibility due to 
> glare, limited functions and are not designed to withstand the harsh elements 
> of the marine environment.
> 
> I really don't need much so I am probably leaning toward the ipad due to 
> cost, but if I were to consider a small dependable unit what suggestions 
> might you have for me? There are too many choices to scroll through on the 
> internet and it leaves me more confused than when I first started the search. 
> What models have you had success with?
> 
> Chris
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

For my boat (1979 Landfall 38), the Wilsonart color “Putty” (1503) was a 
perfect match.  Your mileage may vary…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly 
> straightforward.  Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm 
> 
> 
> I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche' 
> both to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant surface. 
>  Here's a link:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M 
> 
> 
> Both bulkheads were teak.  
> 
> I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched 
> the existing countertops in Touche' closely.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 26' or 27'?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chris — I’ll chime in in favor of the 30mkI, having owned a 1981 for several 
years before we moved up to our Landfall 38.  The 30 was my first boat, and I 
was worried about single-handing her; when I first came aboard, it seemed 
enormous!  But learning on that boat was a joy; it really took care of me, and 
I was always sure of its ability to handle weather.  These, along with the 
additional space down below, are, I think, really good reasons for you to 
consider a 30 over a 26 or 27.  I think you’d be happier in the end.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 11, 2018, at 7:10 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Bruce!
> 
> I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and storage, mooring costs, 
> sail replacement, etc...is another reason why I’m trying to keep the length 
> down. 
> 
> I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many levels. I think I’m 
> committed to a smaller size though I may be convinced otherwise if something 
> were to present itself. :) 
> 
> You nailed the price of both boats. The 26’ has cosmetic issues but can be 
> dropped in the water tomorrow and sailed away. Just trying to look down the 
> road and make the right choice. 
> 
> Beautiful pacific seacraft 25’ at triple the coast but a beautiful bait with 
> classic lines, double ender... but I want to keep costs down! :) 
> 
> Chris 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

There are hundreds of C on the upper Great Lakes; dozens in just my marina.  
We’ve never had a rendezvous; this time of year, we’re all hurrying to get the 
boats put away before the snow flies…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 9, 2018, at 2:53 PM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd, don't feel bad, when we have a C rendezvous here in the Ohio Valley, 
> its a party of one
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Sent: Tue, Oct 9, 2018 3:47 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous
> 
> So it looks like Josh Muckley’s rendezvous is going to be well-attended by 
> C’ers — many more than we had over the last few years up here in the 
> Northeast. 
> 
> I’m trying to be happy for him, but it feels more like this:
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/r86k6e592h8d3bg/muckley.png?dl=0 
>  
> 
> Have fun, guys — and enjoy the swag. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2GHoW_x86eU 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 9, 2018, at 1:12 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Sure Fred, go to Josh’s Rendezvous. See if I care. 
> 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Only if you’re bringing your wallet…   

See you in a few weeks.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 9, 2018, at 11:50 AM, detroito91  wrote:
> 
> Are you bringing the autopilot that will fit a c80?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Well, I’m finally going to make one of these.  I’ll be joining the gang 
Saturday mid-day or so, as a prior commitment keeps me from flying out Friday 
night.

Dennis, are you still coming?  Joel, Jake, others?

See you in a few weeks!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 9, 2018, at 10:10 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey fellow listers, we're about 2 weeks out from the first annual 
> Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous.  Here are the details.  Not that it makes much 
> difference, but I've only received one formal response to the link below.  
> I've received about 4 or 5 other informal responses.
> 
> For anybody who needs a refresher on the details, here's the link. 
> 
> http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html 
> 
> 
> Carm and I are planning to have personal tours, rigging demos, cooking demos, 
> engine demos, Q, cocktails, music, and a meet and greet.  We look forward 
> to seeing y'all there!
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Genoa?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 for Molly Tasker; my new (2-year old) genoa works well, and came just as 
ordered.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 6, 2018, at 8:44 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Edd;
>  
> I bought a 135 genoa for my 38 from Rolly Tasker sails in Brooksville, FL for 
> $2200 before I went to Bermuda last year.
>  
> The sail is made of 7.7 oz. Marblehead low-aspect fabric (the best grade I 
> could find short of a laminate), with medium weight selected for the wind 
> conditions I expect to find in NC and the Chesapeake. Sail has a foam luff to 
> reef to 100%, draft strips, sail numbers, and a trim stripe to help in 
> positioning the genoa cars. Jockey Red Sunbrella UV cover. Made to the 
> dimensions I sent, with tweaking after a couple of conversations to get the 
> clew height just above the lifelines to facilitate trimming. (The light 130 I 
> had been using had a high clew and the boat was just about 5’ too short to 
> get a good sheet lead for trimming... go figure… so the choice was new sail 
> or bigger boat.)
>  
> I’m very happy with the sail, and with the communication and service I got. 
> And the sail was actually delivered a couple of weeks ahead of the promised 
> date.
>  
> Contact:
> Dirk Sharland
> National Sail Supply, LLC (Rolly Tasker Sails, Florida)
> 26092 Withrow Rd
> Brooksville, FL 34601
> 1-800-611-3823
> 
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tank level indicators

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I THINK my dealer setup with them is still active; if anyone on the list is 
interested, I can put in an order.  Let me know off-list.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I installed this product.  I love it.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Tue, Oct 2, 2018, 2:10 PM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello, 
> 
> Our new to us C 30 MKII has tank level indicators on the electrical panel, 
> but these are not working. Now that sailing season is over I plan to open up 
> all the flooring next week to give the boat a big clean-up and to change 
> plumbing hoses in the head for odor control.  While I am down there, I was 
> wondering if anyone has replaced tank level senders/sensors or reactivated 
> them somehow.  It would be great to be able to monitor levels so if people 
> also have done upgrades, ideas on that would be appreciated as well.
> 
> All input, suggestions, would be much appreciated, thank you so much.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Maurice Poulin
> C 30 MKII - Monoloy 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List It's October already

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Stu — done!  Thanks again for hosting us.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 1, 2018, at 9:18 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Here it is the 1st day of October – where did the summer go?  It wasn’t too 
> long ago that many people were getting ready to launch for the summer.  Now 
> they are getting ready to haul-out.
>  
> Unfortunately, October is the beginning of the yearly bills coming in that 
> are associated with this list and the Photo Album and they keep increasing.
>  
> Your help in defraying some of my expenses by contributing to the cause is 
> greatly appreciated.  As long as I can keep my head above water, the list 
> will stay active.  
>  
> Thanks in advance
> Stu
>  
> Checks, money orders, etc.  please make payable to:
> Stu Murray
> 33 Langton Rd
> London, ON, CA
> N5V 2L9
>  
> PayPal --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>  
> E-transfer (Canadian banks)  send to s...@cncphotoalbum.com 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rob - C long time question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

I’m the second owner of Oceanis, Landfall 38 hull #009 (1979); I’ve owned her 
for twelve years.  Before that, I had another Oceanis, 30mkI hull #677 (1981); 
I was probably the fourth owner, and had her for ten years.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 27, 2018, at 7:50 AM, Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello Al,
> 
> I have a question for the list.
> 
> How many of you have owned your current C yacht for 5 years or longer.
> 
> FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976 and are currently the second 
> owners.
> 
> 
> Best regards,
> Jack Fitzgerald, 
> HONEY - US12788
> 1974 C 39 TM
> Savannah, GA 31410 USA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List padwheel analogue thru hull device

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Doug — as far as I know, the ultrasonic speed sensors need to be through-hull, 
as they work by detecting particles in the water and using Doppler shift to 
gauge the speed.  So they wouldn’t work in-hull.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 14, 2018, at 2:23 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ron, 
> Does your speed sensor shoot through the hull? If so what model is it?
> Thanks 
> Doug
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Rebecca Leah 
> LF39 
> Port Orchard YC, WA.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Storm Florence

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

To Joel, Jake, Rick, Jim, and all of my other C friends and acquaintances on 
the East Coast: I wish you luck in the upcoming storm, and hope you are able to 
weather it well.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:58 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well hoping for the best here in Oriental. This rookie missed getting on the 
> haul out list by a few boats. And incant anchor out with my limited 
> experience so  after 7 hours prepping the boat today for the frist time 
> I have done what i can also have a home here so it was a long day ! 
> I am more concernd with. Surge which is predicted locally at 9-13 ft 
> Kinda hard to figure out how to tie up such a forecast and i know i have done 
> my best. I have only owned Halcyon this season  and just getting 
> Her. Really would like to continue on this sweet old C girl 
> Fingers crossed , and toes !!
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net 
> 
> 
> On Sep 11, 2018, at 2:07 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
>> Ugh...  Good luck Mark!
>> 
>> I hope you are as fortunate as us last with Irma.  We did a lot of 
>> preparation, and as it was bearing down on us we move to safer ground.  We 
>> were resigning ourselves to losing the boat and sustaining significant 
>> damage to the house.  In the end the storm moved inland earlier than 
>> anticipated and depowered, leaving us essentially unscathed.
>> 
>> When that was happening the one thing I regretted most was potentially 
>> losing Astralis.
>> 
>> Fair Winds,
>> 
>> Bruce Whitmore 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List How to post [was CnC-List Digest, Vol 152, Issue 12]

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

AND change the subject line — replying to digest posts is a no-no!!!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Sep 5, 2018, at 1:47 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> hit reply and trim as necessary.
> Congrats on the 34!  Nice work!
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, Sep 5, 2018 at 2:45 PM Rob Ball via CnC-List  > wrote:
> I can't figure out how to respond to a specific posting . . . .
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Should I ditch the SSB

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

And let me know if you’d like me to quote decent pricing on either…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 16, 2018, at 7:41 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Highly recommend the Standard Horizon HX870 or HX890 handhelds.  DSC and MOB 
> features make it the go to handheld for me.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Thu, Aug 16, 2018 at 7:14 AM Dan via CnC-List  > wrote:
>  however my girlfriend and I are considering purchasing handheld VHF 
> transceivers to double as walkie talkies for lowering the anchor, etc. 
> ___
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3D Print a Ritchie Compass Replacement Cover

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hey, I’m still under 60!!!   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Aug 15, 2018, at 10:00 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Holy Crap, a C owner under 60!
>  
> That was my first take away from your great video –
>  
> Nice Binnacle Cover BTW . . .
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Docking seamanship

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Installing a bow thruster?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 31, 2018, at 10:58 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.  
> Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both 
> outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.  I 
> can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any 
> pilings.  Whoopee.
> 
> However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different 
> scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just 
> short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings 
> between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is 
> from the starboard side.  
> 
> In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view issues.  
> Docking stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off 
> towards my neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable 
> to looking at a working boatyard.
> 
> So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the 
> boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port 
> when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind and 
> prop walk both working against the boat sucks.
> 
> I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best the 
> Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle to 
> the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of midships, 
> have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the outermost cleat on 
> the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line is secure, we warp the 
> stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and secure a stern line.  
> The stern still tries to swing to port midway through this process but we 
> manage it.
> 
> Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself 
> approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the 
> steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping back 
> on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by myself.
> 
> Any secret tricks I haven't explored?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Bilge pump humor

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Stu — so does this mean the website is still down, and you’re frustrated?   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 25, 2018, at 10:50 AM, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> How many email listers does it take...
> To change a bilge pump
>  
> 1 to change the bilge pump and to post that the bilge pump has been changed.
>  
> 14 to share similar experiences of changing bilge pumps and how the bilge 
> pump could have been changed differently...
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dennis — go shaft your own paradigm…   :^)  (with apologies to Jim Watts…)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 16, 2018, at 12:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rethink the solution.  Shaft your paradigm.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion Steering

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Let me guess — Island Packet?

I’ve heard that the rack-and-pinion has a pretty direct feel, similar to a 
cable-based steering system like most of us have.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:15 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A very timely thread…  I am beginning to look at boats for a possible change 
> and wondered about what effect either a linear or a hydraulic below deck AP 
> would have on the feel of a boat.  Having tiller steering now, any change to 
> a wheel would be “different” – but had some concern having a below deck AP 
> would make the boat feel sluggish.  Good to hear people notice little if any 
> change in the helm.  
>  
> What is the typical change over point in terms of displacement from a linear 
> mechanical to hydraulic system?  
>  
> One boat which caught my eye has rack and pinion steering, I assume from 
> Edson.  Any sense of the pros / cons of that vs the chain and wire system?  
> Would think the “direct drive” nature of it would provide near 100% feel of 
> the helm vs the chain and wire, but maybe not.  Is the maintenance simpler 
> with rack and pinion?  Clean and lube the gears [like a winch] and you are 
> done vs. all the discussion on replacing / aligning idler pulleys / plates, 
> meat hooks on the wire, etc.  
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Charlie — there’s a big difference between a full hydraulic steering system 
(like on the Whitby) and a hydraulic pilot ram.  You should feel no extra 
resistance with either an electric or hydraulic ram; the steering system will 
not change in feel from what you’re used to.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 8, 2018, at 7:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a below 
> deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my Raymarine 
> stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit.
> 
> My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is 
> disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little difference. 
> 
> I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42) whose entire 
> steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of
> that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do with another 
> hydraulic unit. 
> 
> Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not be steering 
> the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.
> 
> Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder move 
> without additional resistance from the auto-pilot. 
> 
> Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel 'free' when the 
> auto-pilot is not engaged?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Or this:

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C7504%7C2290180%7C2290181=3744792
 <https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|7504|2290180|2290181=3744792>

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 6, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John — try this:
> 
> http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/564-hose-deck-fill 
> <http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/564-hose-deck-fill>
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Jul 6, 2018, at 10:40 AM, John via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Almost at the end of my total refit. I am looking for stainless deck 
>> fills.See pictures below like the one on the left of the picture. 
>> 
>> The deck fills have a 3-3/4 inch flange with a 1-1/2 inch hose pipe. We need 
>> 3 water, 1 Diesel, and 1 waste.
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Deck fills for landfall 38.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

John — try this:

http://www.sea-dog.com/groups/564-hose-deck-fill 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 6, 2018, at 10:40 AM, John via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Almost at the end of my total refit. I am looking for stainless deck 
> fills.See pictures below like the one on the left of the picture. 
> 
> The deck fills have a 3-3/4 inch flange with a 1-1/2 inch hose pipe. We need 
> 3 water, 1 Diesel, and 1 waste.
> 
> 
> Thanks everyone.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Cleat

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Another great quote/aphorism:

"Good judgement comes from experience.  Experience comes from bad judgement.”

:^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2018, at 9:03 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Well as they say, "There is no better teacher than that of experience."  
> Maybe I'll learn my lesson!
> 
> Josh 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Touche' hydraulic backstay adjuster repair

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Mike — I’ve been on the list since the old SailNet days in the 90’s, so I’ve 
already made it well past the eighteen-year mark…   :^)

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 28, 2018, at 8:40 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Dennis
>  
> If it has lasted 18 years and you have it rebuilt you may not have to worry 
> about it 18 years from now.  Likely if you did and emailed this list at that 
> time it would be an entirely different group reading and responding as well.  
> There would likely be no one left to say “I told you so”
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List In-mast wiring on Landfall 38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bob — see answers embedded below:

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 26, 2018, at 3:18 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> In two weeks, my summer haulout begins and the yard will be re-wiring my 
> mast.  (The old original wires are un-tinned and very corroded, particularly 
> at the base of the mast.)  The yard is planning to take down the mast to do 
> the re-wiring.
> 
> Has anyone else done this job on a Landfall 38?

YES — I redid my mast a couple of years ago.  I replaced all DC wiring with 
new, including replacing the combo steaming\/deck light with an LED fixture 
from MarineBeam, adding a combo anchor/masthead tricolor LED (also LED from 
MarineBeam), adding an LED Windex light, replacing the VHF cabling and antenna 
(LMR-400 low-loss cable and a new Shakespeare antenna), adding a masthead cell 
antenna for a new below-deck cell repeater (WeBoost system with a Digital 
Antenna cell antenna, also with LMR-400 low-loss cable), and adding a mount and 
cable for a masthead wind instrument (Raymarine; the boat has never had a wind 
instrument).

> Is it really necessary to take the mast down?

YES!!! — My mast had a bunch of fiberglass insulation stuffed in it in various 
spots; probably to keep the cabling from slapping.  This was a total pain in 
the @$$ and added several hours to the job to get as much out as possible.  
There was also pipe insulation around the cabling; it was falling apart and 
also needed to be removed.  There’s no way I could have done anything with the 
mast up.

> Does the mast wiring come down through a conduit?

On my boat, hull #009 (1979), there is no conduit; nor would there be a good 
way to in stall any, given the mast profile.  Instead, I bundled all of the 
cable with three wire ties every foot or so, with the tails left on and 
pointing 120° from each other.  This centers the bundle in the mast, and keeps 
it from slapping.  Not a noise from this arrangement so far.  It does mean you 
have to plan well, and have multiple pull lines coming from the different 
exits.  While I was at it, I replaced the masthead sheaves (ZephyrWorks) and 
the spinnaker halyard block (Garhauer), as well as fully inspecting the 
spreaders and rig.

With the fixed (welded) cap on my mast, it made things interesting; but things 
turned out well.  I’ve posted a photo of the completed masthead install on my 
website: http://www.postaudio.net/webserver/masthead.jpg 


BTW, I was anchored out a couple of nights this past weekend, and my anchor 
light failed to come on.  Voltage was good at the mast base; so I went up the 
mast to investigate.  Upon pulling the cover off the trim, I got a good whiff 
of burnt electronics.  It appears that the driver circuit board in the anchor 
lamp assembly fried.  I called MarineBeam to complain, and they’re sending a 
replacement lamp free of charge, with expedited delivery.  Hopefully the new 
one will last longer...


> Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Presently on the ICW)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 35 wins 1st place

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Congrats, Dennis!  Now I owe YOU a drink…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 25, 2018, at 9:32 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This past weekend was the Gulfport to Pensacola Race, a 100 NM offshore 
> sailboat race.  Active list member Dennis C sailed Touche’, a C 35 mk1, 
> over 100 NM in under 13 hrs to win 1st place in his class. 
> 
>  What makes this even more spectacular is the fact that at 40 NM before the 
> finish, Touche’ suffered a total failure of the back stay adjuster.  Dennis 
> quickly kludged a temporary fix using a couple blocks and lines led to aft 
> winches.
> 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Crooked Lake

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Sorry all, I wasn’t paying attention when an email address auto-filled…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 16, 2018, at 9:41 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred, we are all happy to know that grandpa's canoe has its stickers, we will 
> all sleep much better.(just kidding)
> 
> 
> Richard
> 
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Crooked Lake

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, all — Heidi & I were up at Crooked Lake overnight last night and today for 
much of the day.  All is good up there; I wanted to let everyone know that I 
put the new registration stickers on our canoe and grandpa’s old fishing boat, 
so they’re current now.

Sarah & Bryce — Heidi probably already told you, but we washed the sheets and 
towels we used, so everything should be set for Sarah’s visit with her friends 
next weekend.

— Fred
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Instruments - Powerless

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Ray — are these Raymarine ST50/ST60 instruments by any chance?  If so, they’re 
all powered (and share data) over SeaTalk1 cabling.  There should be a power 
drop from the first instrument in the chain that runs to your DC panel and a 
breaker there, probably labeled “Instruments” or “Electronics” or something 
like that.  There may be an inline fuse after the breaker on this power drop; 
if you can find one, see if it’s blown.

Otherwise, get us more info.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 15, 2018, at 8:33 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Everyone:
> 
> Nice sunny day breezy day in Milwaukee.  It would probably help tell what my 
> wind direction, depth and speed was if my instruments had power. 
> 
> I finished the season with everything working.  I tested everything and they 
> only thing that is not working is my wind/speed/ depth. 
> 
> I never messed with the electrical so any one has advise on what to check for 
> before calling in the $$$ (marina people)?
> 
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List A2B Race

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Good luck to Joel Aronson (Atlantis, Hylas 44) and Jake Broderson (Midnight 
Mistress, C 35-III) of this list and their crew; they’ll be starting out in 
the Annapolis to Bermuda Race on Joel’s boat in a few hours.  You can follow 
their progress here: https://yachtscoring.com/race_tracking.cfm 
.

Good luck, guys — wish I were going along again this year!  Stay close to the 
rhumb line, and go north-about into St George’s this time…   :^)

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 149, Issue 6

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Greg — if you have an AutoCAD .dwg file and this was for an Edson radial drive, 
I’d like to get a copy from you.  Email me off-list — thanks!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 2, 2018, at 2:47 PM, Greg Swetka via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Re: autopilot selection and installation 
> 
> I have a 35mkll that would not work with any of the wheel pilots so I had to 
> go with an under deck installation. It is great... quiet unobtrusive and 
> responsive. I went with the Raymarine because it was the most popular at the 
> time. The installation was tricky due to the lack of exposed rudder shaft, so 
> I designed and had a local machine shop fabricate two plates that sandwiched 
> the quadrant and gave me the correct distance from the post for mounting the 
> pilot ram. I designed it so that bolts fit into the openings in the casting, 
> snug against the inner wall so that there was no need to drill holes in the 
> quadrant, possibly weakening it. I have been very happy with the 
> installation. I believe that I still have templates in Autodesk Inventor. 
> Greg Swetka 
> S.V. Piper
> Lake Ste. Clair, MI
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Jun 2, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>>   cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>   cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>>  1. Re:  Roll pin size (Persuasion37)
>>  2.  Autopilot selection and install (Allan Hester)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 11:45:31 -0400
>> From: Persuasion37 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Roll pin size
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Hi Tom
>> 
>> I also have a Harken roller and have been looking for roll pins.  On mine 
>> the pins are 1/8? dia and about an inch long.  Canadian Tire has 1/8X3/4.  
>> Also Princess Auto as a package of 120 roll pins of various sizes.  Once I 
>> find a 1 inch one I?ll have to file/grind to the right length.
>> 
>> I believe you will do more damage if you try to drill the roll pins.  They 
>> are very hard.  Use a new roll pin and clamp to press the old pin out.
>> 
>> Good luck.
>> 
>> Mike
>> PERSUASION
>> C 37 K/CB
>> Long Sault
>> 
>>> On Jun 1, 2018, at 7:44 PM, T power via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi everyone, I need to replace a foil on my elderly harken furler. They are 
>>> joined with roll pins,
>>> which will need to be drilled out. Anyone have any idea what size they 
>>> would be. Thanks for any help
>>> 
>>> Tom Power
>>> Invictus
>>> C 30 MK1
>>> Fredericton, NB
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Sat, 2 Jun 2018 15:58:14 +
>> From: Allan Hester 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List Autopilot selection and install
>> Message-ID:
>>   
>> 
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> 
>> Hi Fred and listers,
>> 
>> 
>> As you know, I am considering a new autopilot. Autopilots are something I 
>> know nothing about.
>> 
>> The Raymarine ST4000 currently installed works but it is very old and is not 
>> capable of steering the boat straight in anything other than a relatively 
>> flat sea state.
>> 
>> However, it does the job, after a fashion. Its also quite noisy. Everytime 
>> it adjusts course it squeaks. It may only need some lubrication. I will 
>> lubricate the wheel over the next few days. Are the new units noisy?
>> 
>> I have been in the port side lazarette many times. As you can appreciate it 
>> is a cramped space. I installed a new Espar heater last winter and crawling 
>> in that hole was very uncomfortable even with the port scupper hose removed. 
>> 
>> I have no plans to sail offshore in a C 35. So I wonder if the added 
>> expense and difficulty of install for an under deck autopilot is really 
>> necessary? Perhaps the new wheel pilots will track better than my old ST4000 
>> and offer 
>> strong, reliable, quiet performance? 
>> 
>> I have taken a cursory 

Re: Stus-List Foredeck cow

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

For those new to the list…

http://wbryant.com/cow/index.htm 


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Foredeck cow

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Oh Wal, where are you when we need you…?   :^)

— Fred

> On Jun 7, 2018, at 10:39 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Found a Cow for sale if anyone has extra room on their foredeck.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Evo Wheel Pilot

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Barry — it sounds like the wiring to either the drive motor or the ACU are 
undersized.  Pretty inexpensive to fix.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 4, 2018, at 9:11 AM, Barry Lenoble via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a C 110 with the Evo 100 wheel pilot. A friend of mine has a 35
> mark 3 and the same wheel pilot. I race on that boat and am on it
> frequently. 
> 
> For my use (and his too) the Ray wheel pilot is adequate. I use the pilot
> for short handed / single handed sailing in fair weather conditions. I don't
> sail (on purpose) in bad weather and I don't expect the AP to do well in 25+
> winds downwind or in confused seas. The pilot does a great job under power.
> It works great under sail in flat water and does OK upwind in moderate
> waves. As the winds pick up it helps to have the boat a little undertrimmed.
> 
> 
> I think I have a wiring problem on my boat as the voltage to the power unit
> is always on the low side, even when the engine is running. As a result, if
> the AP is really pressed hard I sometimes get a 'drive stopped' error and I
> need to re-engage the AP. I do not see this problem on my friend's boat. 
> 
> The AP on my friend's 35 seems to work better than on my 110. Perhaps
> because my boat is a little bigger? I don't really know. 
> 
> For me, the wheel pilot works good enough. I would rather have a below decks
> pilot but the difficult and expensive installation made that out of my
> budget. I paid $1100 for the pilot and under $300 for installation. 
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Barry
> 
> Barry Lenoble
> leno...@optonline.net 
> Deep Blue C, C 110
> Mt. Sinai, NY

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Autopilot selection and install

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Alan — short of a below-deck pilot, your only other real choice would be 
another wheel pilot; and there, you only have one choice right now: the 
Raymarine Evolution Wheel Pilot.  Nobody else is making one at this time.  The 
drive on the EV is better and more capable than the older version you currently 
have with the ST4000; it is rated to a maximum displacement of 16,500 lbs, 
which would give you about a 50% safety factor given your boat’s published 
displacement.

Contact me off-list if you’d like to get the special C Lister price.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jun 2, 2018, at 10:58 AM, Allan Hester via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Fred and listers,
> 
> 
> As you know, I am considering a new autopilot. Autopilots are something I 
> know nothing about.
> 
> The Raymarine ST4000 currently installed works but it is very old and is not 
> capable of steering the boat straight in anything other than a relatively 
> flat sea state.
> 
> However, it does the job, after a fashion. Its also quite noisy. Everytime it 
> adjusts course it squeaks. It may only need some lubrication. I will 
> lubricate the wheel over the next few days. Are the new units noisy?
> 
> I have been in the port side lazarette many times. As you can appreciate it 
> is a cramped space. I installed a new Espar heater last winter and crawling 
> in that hole was very uncomfortable even with the port scupper hose removed. 
> 
> I have no plans to sail offshore in a C 35. So I wonder if the added 
> expense and difficulty of install for an under deck autopilot is really 
> necessary? Perhaps the new wheel pilots will track better than my old ST4000 
> and offer 
> strong, reliable, quiet performance? 
> 
> I have taken a cursory look the quadrant and rudder post in the past. It 
> doesn't appear to me there is any room to attach anything to the post. I 
> think my only option in that regard is doing what Paul did on his LF 38 and 
> attach 
> 
> the drive to the quadrant.
> 
> This is a project that I will tackle after the current sailing season. At 
> this point I am looking for advice from those who have experience in this 
> area.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice you and listers can offer.
> 
> AL H.
> C 35 mk3
> Pacific Ranger
> Vancouver 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 3GMF knocking sound

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

One other option for a diesel tach:

https://www.tinytach.com/diesel-tinytach 


These can be had on Amazon for under $60.00.  I just built one into a new 
engine control panel I made for my LF38; I’ve never had either a tach or gauges 
on the boat, as it came with the original Yanmar Type A panel with a couple of 
idiot lights and a horn.

I’ll have pix to post this weekend after I (finally) launch…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jun 1, 2018, at 10:00 AM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Kevin, 
> 
> The only way I know of is to use another tach...  That doesn't have to be 
> expensive or complicated.  I used my R/C airplanes optical tach to validate 
> mine and it worked fine.  You paint a sliver or white stripe on the shaft / 
> shine a flashlight on it / point the tach at it. 
> 
> They are about 20-30 bucks
> 
> R/C Tachometer: 
> https://www.amazon.com/Hangar-Micro-Digital-Tachometer-HAN156/dp/B0006N72U2 
> 
> 
> Automotive Optical Tachometer: 
> https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20713A-Tachometer-Accuracy-Batteries/dp/B000I5LDVC/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=industrial=UTF8=1527864869=1-2-spons=optical+Tachometer=1
>  
> 
> 
> Good Luck, 
> 
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good points Francois, I have meant to take a good look at the prop and 
> probably do need to send it off for reconditioning. 
> 
> I know the bottom is a little dirty and so is the prop. But even when 
> everything was freshly painted I still had this issue. It starts up very 
> easily which makes me think that I'm running it at a decent load.
> 
> Is there a way to determine the reliability and accuracy of the Tach?
> 
> 
> On Fri, Jun 1, 2018 at 9:30 AM Francois Rivard  > wrote:
> Hi Kevin, 
> 
> In addition to making sure the transmission is fully engaged (We had that 
> issue too, for me, it was solved with a simple cable adjustment), it sounds 
> like you should jump in the water and take a good look at your prop. What you 
> need to do is grab the blades and wiggle them against the folding axis. So, 
> not following the folding movement, the other axis -> back and forth. If the 
> tip moves more than 1/8 - 1/4 inch the hub and blades need a rebuild. 
> 
> The Martecs only go so long before needing a rebuild which consists of 
> reaming the pivot axis hole and installing a larger diameter pivot shaft.  It 
> sounds like a big deal but it's not: Last time I had it done Martec did it 
> for $80.00 plus shipping. 
> 
> The 3GM30F (I have one on my boat) is a small displacement engine (950 CC) 
> and by diesel standards: A High revver. It needs to cruise between 2800 and 
> 3000 rpm and should run about 3400 rpm flat out.  If it's in good shape and 
> it can't achieve that something is amiss: Too much pitch on the prop / dirty 
> and draggy bottom  / combination of both.  
> 
> When I had my prop redone Martec sold me higher pitch blades saying it would 
> "Run better"  It didn't. All I got was cavitation and vibrations.  Going back 
> to the original blades solved the issue.  Yes, the blades with more pitch 
> were pitted (Obvious sign of cavitation), they looked like they were infested 
> with little crustaceans that don't exist in a lake. 
> 
> When Yanmar says you should run the engine at those RPM they are not kidding. 
>  Prior owners of my boat ran it at low rpm too often and turned the engine 
> into a "Hard Starter" (What the local mechanics called it) as not enough load 
> and RPM caused excessive carbon deposits / fouled the injectors / messed-up 
> the whole thing.  it was literally a  5-10 minutes battle to get the engine 
> running on the first start of the weekend every time we used the boat when we 
> first got it.  
> 
> I "fixed" the issue by running it at prescribed RPM / running it wide open 
> for at least 10-15 mins every weekend / using Diesel Kleen Power service 
> injector cleaner.  It took over 20 gallons to really make a difference but 
> now the engine starts within a few seconds every time when cold and 
> immediately fires-up for the rest of the weekend. 
> 
> Good Luck, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If 

Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — thanks for the elaboration.  BTW, for anyone thinking about going with 
a below-deck autopilot, those who have been on the list for a while know that I 
like the Octopus hydraulic linear drives from Canada.  The biggest downside to 
these is the space you need to leave for the ram rod to protrude behind the 
drive when the ram is fully retracted.

I just came across this hydraulic linear drive today, from a UK supplier:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combo-Linear-Drive-For-Raymarine-Simrad-Autopilots/231515897070?hash=item35e76c3cee
 
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/Combo-Linear-Drive-For-Raymarine-Simrad-Autopilots/231515897070?hash=item35e76c3cee>

This would be an excellent option to use with a Raymarine (or Simrad, or 
Garmin…) pilot system.  If/when I decide to go ahead on a below-deck pilot on 
my LF38, I’ll definitely consider this drive.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 31, 2018, at 8:37 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred you are correct.  There are several boats that prohibit the use of a 
> dedicated autopilot tiller arm and the 38 Landfall is one of them.As you 
> mention, the solution is to direct mount the ram to radial drive wheel with 
> sufficient reinforcement at the attachment point.  That mean beefing up the 
> radial both above and below the rose joint where the through bolt connects to 
> the drive wheel, preferably with some heavy gauge aluminum stock that would 
> fit the contours of the casting.  Clamping a stainless plate to the radial 
> wheel will be a hotbed for corrosion overtime and will weaken the drive wheel 
> at the attachment point.   That’s why it is best to mate aluminum to 
> aluminum.  Try to keep the linear drive  level and in-plane with the wheel as 
> possible since torsional loads placed on the casting will not hold up under 
> harsh conditions.
> And yes, type 2 hydraulic linear drives are far more robust that mechanical 
> ones.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2018 7:57 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.
>  
> Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
> absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with 
> an undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
> Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
> strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
> Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
> and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
> getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space 
> in the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me 
> after much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard 
> locker would be the best in terms of access for both installation and 
> maintenance.
>  
> I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
> there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last 
> much longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.
>  
> And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
> weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat 
> ready for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll 
> try to help.
>  
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
>> On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> "Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
>> autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B RAM1 Linear 
>> drive unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an 
>> independent Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also 
>> interested if anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  
>> Its not recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning 
>> just to have a below deck autopilot"
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use

Re: Stus-List problem Landfall38 autopilot help.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, John — unless your LF38 is significantly different from mine, there is 
absolutely no room to add a proper tiller arm.  You either have to live with an 
undersized wheel pilot (as the Simrad is no longer in production, and the 
Raymarine is right on the edge for our boats’ displacement…); or you have to 
strengthen the radial drive and attach the ram directly to that.  I know, 
Chuck: that’s not recommended by Edson.  But there’s really no other choice; 
and done correctly, it seems to work just fine.  The biggest issue is just 
getting everything properly mounted in that #$%@# excuse for an engine space in 
the LF38.  It takes a bit of cockpit locker space, but it appears to me after 
much thought that a transverse mounting of the ram into the starboard locker 
would be the best in terms of access for both installation and maintenance.

I would also suggest that you take a look at the various hydraulic drives out 
there (specifically Octopus and Simrad/Navico), as I believe they’ll last much 
longer than the linear electromechanical drives from Raymarine.

And to Allan Hester, who asked about below-deck autopilots in a post last 
weekend, sorry for the delay in replying; I was up trying to get the boat ready 
for its much-delayed launch this coming Saturday.  Ask away, and I’ll try to 
help.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 30, 2018, at 4:17 PM, john wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> "Has any CC Landfall 38 owners installed an Edson tiller arm for linear 
> autopilot drive application?  We are trying to install a B RAM1 Linear 
> drive unit and don't have enough exposed rudder shaft to attached an 
> independent Edson bronze tiller arm for linear drive connection.  We also 
> interested if anyone has used the quadrant to attach the quick release pin.  
> Its not recommended by Edson but figured someone would disregard the warning 
> just to have a below deck autopilot"
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 38 Landfall stemhead/ bow roller cracked

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Paul — I’ve actually got a spare casting sitting in my garage; I don’t 
necessarily want to part with it, but could it serve as a pattern to have a new 
weldment made up out of stainless or aluminum for you?  Maybe one with some 
improvements…  And maybe they could make more than one…   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 29, 2018, at 1:20 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am wondering if any LF38 owners have replaced the original cast 
> stemhead/bow roller?For those not familiar with LF38 stemhead, it is a 
> triangular cast plate on the bow which incorporates bow chocks and rollers 
> along with the connection point for the forestay.   I found a crack in mine, 
> and so I’m looking to replace it with something more rugged and more 
> functional.   
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List installing a Lewmar V series windlass on a LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, John — the typical way to do this is to mount the windlass on deck, 
“straddling” the bulkhead between the chain locker and the v-berth, so that the 
motor is out of the elements in the forward part of the v-berth and the chain 
drop is in the very aft end of the anchor locker.

See Wal Bryant’s excellent page here: 
http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/gtackle/windlass/index.htm

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 23, 2018, at 8:37 AM, John via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello I am looking for any suggestions on Where to position and mount a 
> Lewmar V-series windlass on the deck of a CCLF38 so the motor unit is 
> protected from saltwater and the gypsy directs the chain feed into the anchor 
> locker. Pictures would also be very helpful. 
> 
> Thanks 
> Sent from my iPhone
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Rob — Halifax Traffic most likely has a few very powerful open-array radars 
(like these: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/777361/41291844/in/keyword/76402/self 
) that they 
use to track vessel traffic; these are going to far out-perform most radar sets 
located on the vessels themselves.  So no surprise that they can see you very 
well; but probably better than most of the vessels around you.  And the closer 
those large commercial vessels get to your boat, the greater the chance you’ll 
be in a radar shadow caused by the height of the vessel’s radar above the 
water, as well as the hull of the vessel itself.  So don’t count on them seeing 
you as well as Vessel Traffic does.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 22, 2018, at 9:09 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have a similar one on the boat but don't use itfind it awkward as it 
> has to be hung from the spreader.  If I were going on a coastal trip, I might 
> use it but not in the harbor most afternoons.
> 
> I read the various reviews of radar reflectors and these are considered the 
> most effective.  Nevertheless, I know the cylinder shaped one I use works as 
> I have had Halifax Traffic hail me on the VHF in the fog to tell me that I am 
> in the way of commercial traffic, so I should move.  If Halifax Traffic can 
> pick me up as a target in the harbor I assume other can as well.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Any of your neighbors doing some target practice with their 12-gauge shotgun?   
:^)

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 21, 2018, at 8:46 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just finished a sail on Saturday p.m., started the motor and was standing in 
> the cockpit with my back facing the bow when I heard a loud noise, what 
> sounded like a 12 gauge gun go off behind me..felt something hit me in 
> the back, turned around and saw 5 - 6 square pieces of aluminum on the deck 
> and on the cockpit sole.scared the heck out of me.for a moment, had 
> no idea what had just happened.
> 
> Looked up to check things aloft and noticed my radar reflector (cylinder 
> shaped) which I had attached to my lower shroud with four (4) zip ties (2 
> each top and bottom)..had been doing that for a dozen years with no 
> issuesand it was goneall gonenothing left attached to the 
> shroud.not the two black end pieces of the reflector or any of the 4 
> plastic zip ties.only thing(s) that remained were 6 pieces of the 
> aluminum from inside the reflector that fell down.the rest must of went 
> overboard.
> 
> I have never heard of this happening, ever..the radar reflector simply 
> exploded.And it was not full of water which might have expanded because 
> some years ago when I took it off the boat in the Fall, there was a little 
> water in it so I drilled a 3/16" hole in one side which always then became 
> the 'bottom' when attaching to the shroud in the Spring.
> 
> Has this ever happened to anyone else?
> 
> Can anyone explain how a cylinder type radar reflector can explode like mine 
> did?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — take a look at the new smaller Shakespeare HDTV marine antenna: 
http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/3004-seawatch-hdtv-antenna/ 


Definitely smaller than the old “UFO” style TV antennas; it’s amplified, and 
needs 12VDC to operate.  But with the 30dB gain and getting it up high, you’d 
have very good reception.  Let me know if you’d like me to price one for you.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should 
> pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I get 35 
> channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates 
> just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Matthew — I replaced my ancient (and ineffective) anchor light and separate 
tricolor last year with one of these:

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-tri-color-and-all-around-anchor-navigation-stack-light-n4-tri-124/
 


The MarineBeam gear is well-built, and performs very well, generally exceeding 
USCG requirements for visibility and color.  Given the propensity of 
festoon-type lamps to be a bit loose, I’d say replace the whole darn thing and 
be done with it.  You should be able to reuse the existing wiring, unless it’s 
badly corroded; on our older boats, C did NOT use tinned wire, and much of 
the old lamp-cord wiring in our old masts was not good to begin with, and has 
definitely not aged well…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 7, 2018, at 10:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor 
> light to an LED.
> On my C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
> units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want 
> to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.
> 
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does 
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
> 
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
> hook with an LED.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray