ject: Re: Stus-List 34 wiring - also SeaTalk cable
I would like to piggy back on this thread for a similar reason. I am making
my SeaTalkNG trunk permanent, ie hiding the cable away.
It needs to go from electrical panel (portside) to my wind instruments just
above that same galley light (starbd sid
The wiring in my Viking was all routed in and during the molding of the deck...
The PO routed ALL the new wiring in the Bilge. That was pretty awesome!
I've been tackling new wires as they are needed finding new routes, tucked as
inconspicuously as possible. As Ed said, it is an interesting
area.
Wouldn't that solve the problem? :D
To echo John - Anybody done this? Any advice?
Cheers
Steve Hood
S/V Diamond Girl
C&C 34
Lions Head ON
--
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2014 20:28:20 -0400
From: "John and Maryann Read"
To:
Subject: Stus-L
Suggest running the new wire to the first fixture as you propose. Then run
another wire from the panel to any other lamp in the forward string as best you
can. That should get them all working. Use tinned wire.
Rich
> On Apr 29, 2014, at 21:28, "John and Maryann Read"
> wrote:
>
> In the pr
John,
As you may know, the Enterprise-A was a 1978 C&C 34. I must say the wiring was
a source of major headaches over the years.
It always seemed that they wired everything tight, gave very little slack and
then glued the deck on top so it was impossible to access and fix.
Yes. If you run a
If you can access the second light in the series you could wire them
independently and just abandon that run of wire (clipping out the wire
wherever possible). If it's nasty there it's probably rotted out a long way
in both directions.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 29 Ap
In the process of changing the interior light over the galley sink have
discovered the wiring has completely corroded. No wire strands – just dust.
It is 2 wires each positive and negative joined at the light. Logic says one
set goes back to the circuit breakers and the other to more lights g
