The time has come to replace my cracked and leaking Windows on my 37+. I had
planned on using 4991 tape and 795 silicone to attach the plexiglass. The
problem is that the width of the glue joint is narrow, as little as 1/2 inch in
some places. Should I make the plexiglass window larger to
By "glue joint" I mean the overlap area created by the difference between the
size of the widow and the size of the hole the window is covering. This area is
narrow especially at the bottom of the window, 1/2" or so. The VHB tape is 1/2"
wide, leaving no room for sealant. I could cut the tape
Hi,
I'm interested in templating and fairing my elliptical rudder on my 37+. Where
might I find information on the lines of this rudder?
Cheers, Al
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please
eaches the same speed on either
> tack--a good thing compared to before the fairing. YMMV since the rudder is a
> relatively minor (compared to the keel) perturbation to the underwater
> lift/flow.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C 36XL/kcb
>
> Sent from my iPh
; C 27 MkIII
>
> -----Original Message- From: Alan Liles via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2016 8:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alan Liles
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Post to list
>
> Thanks for the warm welcome.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
>>
Thanks for the warm welcome.
Cheers, Al
> On Feb 10, 2016, at 7:50 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Congratulations!
> Its a beautiful boat and you can look forward to lots of fast races and
> comfortable cruising alike!
>
> Tracy Hirsh
> Ogopogo
> 1989 C
ar/
>
>> On 10 February 2016 at 21:17, Gary Russell via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Al,
>> It's a great boat! Welcome.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
Hi all, I'm new to the list so I'll probably have a few screw ups. Anyway, I'm
just finalizing a deal for a 37/40+ so I'll likely have a few questions arise.
Cheers, Al
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Cheers, Al
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Does anyone have a round number for fuel usage in a 37+? Mine has a Yanmar
3JH2E with a three blade Maxprop, pitch unknown. I need to move the boat to its
new home and I have no idea how much fuel it will use. I don't want to just
fill it up as I'm planning on some tank cleaning in the near
Thanks for all the responses. I'll estimate it at 1 gph and call it good.
Cheers, Al
> On Feb 18, 2016, at 7:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I use 0.67 gph when cruising my Landfall 38 with 2-blade prop & 3hmf engine.
>
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
The deal just closed. I'm the new owner of C 37/40+ Elendil out of Victoria.
Cheers, Al
___
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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
number.
>
> 37 = 37' long (yours will have a 40 here as they stopped pretending it was a
> 37" boat after 1993)
>
> 067 = Hull Number 67 of the series.
>
> C0 = March of 1990
>
> 90 = 1990 Model Year
>
> http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm
>
> K
I was accessing the archive from the cncphotoalbum site. There are no search
tools there. The Mail-Archive site is news to me, so, again, the List succeeds.
Cheers, Al
> On Mar 13, 2016, at 7:39 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
>
> There are 2 functions on the Photo Album
op:
> https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/
>
> 2. Go to google and enter "cnc-list.com" plus your search string. For
> example, if you want posts about a rudder, enter "cnc-list.com rudder".
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>> On Sat, Mar 12, 2
Preparing to remove my rig, I found the gooseneck fitting (toggle?) worn around
the vertical pin. Where might I source a new one. The boat is a '94 37/40+. I'm
not sure of the manufacturer.
On another note, is there a way to search subjects in the list archive? I'm
sure this has come up before
g edge of keel, and 2 coatseeverywhere else. This will last me
> 4-5 years here in the PNW. Oh and then only knock off the hard stuff. I leave
> the slime to sluff off during cruising.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> svPegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
> ------ Original messag
I'm preparing to paint the bottom of my 37+ for the first time (for me). The
first issue is "How much paint will be required?". I'll be using Micron CSC and
I'm hoping to get enough on that will last for two seasons.
Cheers, Al
___
Email address:
I was advised, by a professional, to use a propane torch to finish the edges.
It makes sense but I would have to practice a bit on scrap before I tried it on
the real windows.
Al
S.V. Elendil
37/40+
> On Mar 4, 2016, at 8:35 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> wrote:
Thanks for all the responses. I'm sure I can make it work now.
Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C 37+
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
Hi all. I was just at the boat cleaning up and I tried the icebox pump by
switching it on at the breaker panel. Nothing. I tried to get a look at it but
it seems I'd have to take up the galley sole to see the bottom of the icebox so
I thought I'd research it a bit before I started
Hi all, thanks again for the advice. My boat does have a switch on the bulkhead
and pumps through the weird spigot into the sink. It's surprising how much you
can miss when you're learning a new boat.
Cheers, Al
> On Apr 27, 2016, at 6:39 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List
>
I looked at that boat about three years ago, when it was for sale in Sydney BC.
It was very nice with lots of new equipment. It sold very quickly and I
thought, for a long time that I'd missed out on a good boat. I didn't do more
than a quick once over but that boat looked good to me. Two years
What thickness plexiglass did you use? The Plexiglas G spec. sheet shows 6mm
(.236") then 9mm (.354") as the next step up. I'm getting ready to do this and
am wondering "How thick?"
Cheers, Al
> On Jun 30, 2016, at 8:29 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Make
My 3JH2E starts easily at idle. I didn't know about adjusting the throttle to
start.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
1994 37/40+
> On Oct 9, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> +1 on that (same here)
>
> Marek
> Perkins Perama M-20
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
On my 94 37/40+ the forward hatch is a size 70 Ocean hatch. I haven't figured
out what the four small ones are but I think they're Coastline/Trimline size
20. I'm getting prepared to replace some acrylic so I'm interested in what you
discover.
Alan Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC.
I'm currently trying to clean my fuel tank. I've pumped out all I can get
through the engine fuel supply line. I'm planning on sucking the bottom out
through the full line. My question, to all you 37+ owners, is; Is there a
cleanout port on the top of the tank? I don't want to remove the berth
Everything grounded with a large Type B at the ready.
> Bill Dakin
> C
> S/V Tapestry
>
>
>
> http://www.kxii.com/content/news/Highport-Marina-says-fire-started-from-man-pouring-out-gas-tank-436840283.html
>
>> On Mon, Jul 31, 2017 at 11:52 AM, Alan Liles via CnC-List
cotia
>
>> On 3 August 2017 at 02:54, Alan Liles via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> wrote:
>> Thanks, Gary, I'll try the fuel sender. Is it a gasket or oring?
>>
>> Cheers, Al
>>
>>
>>> On Jul 31, 2017, at 11:49 AM, Bill Dakin via C
So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a strange
pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I go on deck and find
it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. Thinking it strange I tighten
the baby stay and it slows but doesn't stop. Anyone else have
Sorry, forgot to mention it's a C/40+.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver
> On Aug 12, 2017, at 8:55 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> do?
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our me
I spent some time loosening and tightening mast related items. The spare genoa
halyard had the most effect. When I eased it the mast shook a couple of times
then settled down. There has been no vibrations since, although the conditions
have changed as well. Thanks for all replies on a
I used a sharp chisel to shave the plexus off the gelcoat. The old glue was
still flexible enough that sanding didn't work well at all. It was a long
process as there was a lot of glueline to be cleaned. Quite a lot of
gelcoat came away with the plexi, which I filled and sanded flat. My plexi
was
On my Yanmar 3JH2E there is an oil fill cap on the top of the engine, which I
use to add oil. There is another, lower down, in front of the injection pump.
Are both for filling the crankcase lube oil?
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 30/40+
Vancouver
___
Has anyone on the list had to access their holding tank? My vent is plugged and
I need to access at least one end. There is a small access port in the top of
one of the vanity cupboards but that seems fairly useless as I can't see much
in there and my hands don't really fit. To get to the tank
I went through this when I first got my 37/40. Apparently the metallurgy of the
exchanger precludes the need for zincs. In any case I've never found any on my
3JH2E.
Cheers, Al
> On Jun 27, 2017, at 5:51 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I
Bruce,
On my 1994 37/40+ there is an access port in the head bulkhead. This makes it
easier to work on the raw water pump and starter. I don't know how you would
access either without it.
You might want to dress the face of the pump with a smooth flat file, just to
remove a thigh spots that
Does your through hull have an external strainer? That can get covered in
marine growth causing a flow restriction at higher RPMs.
Cheers, Al
SV Elendil, 37/40+
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
On my boat, the switch directly forward of the mast controls two lights, port
and starboard of the mast.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver
> On Apr 30, 2017, at 6:30 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Sorry, we don't have a switch there. You'll likely
On my 94 37/40+ the forward hatch is an Ocean hatch. All the small ones are
Coastline.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver
> On May 2, 2017, at 6:20 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Our '94 C 37/40+ leaks a little bit through the aft
I just replaced my old breaker blowing, jamming, 14 year old windlass. It turns
out that the 50 feet of 3/8 BBB chain and the 200 feet of 3/4 nylon rope were
incompatible with the existing gypsy. Gypsies are selective about their rode so
if I were buying new I would make sure it would work with
Where do you connect overboard zincs? I would think directly to the shaft or
engine but the ones I've seen don't have a cable long enough for that.
Cheers, Al
> On Sep 25, 2017, at 10:44 AM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Overboard zincs make a lot of sense.
I have an Evadry that runs all year long. It's over a year old and still going
strong. I find that in the cold weather the cooling plate freezes up so I use a
timer to let the ice melt then run again. It works well, I take about a liter
of water out most rainy winter weeks
Al Liles
SV Elendil
Hi Chris, I would consider a soda blasting job on my boat, also in Vancouver.
If you find someone to do it let me know as I, too, am tired of sanding. I
would only consider doing the bottom in the spring while hoping for dry
weather.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C/40+
Vancouver
> On Oct 20, 2017,
I'm wondering about grounding for lightning protection with an epoxy coated
keel. Isn't that why the mast is connected, electrically to the keel. I've had
lightning strike very close, which aroused my interest in avoidance of being hit
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver
> On May 3, 2018,
> Marek
>> Ottawa, ON
>>
>> From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Alan Liles via
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2018 19:04
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Alan Liles
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslin
code.
>
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
>
>> On Jun 28, 2018, at 8:04 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List
>> wrote:
>>
>> Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly.
>> It's probably a good thing but I always com
https://ccga-pacific.org/files/library/01-07_Portable_Fire_Extinguishers_April_11,2007.pdf
I did find this. It's not recertification but a yearly maintenance tag. Six of
one...
Cheers, Al
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft
berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut down
2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems very
solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else
I worked on the boat tonight removing all hoses and wires. Using a large
screwdriver at the edge I was able to get the tank moving. I think it will lift
right out now. I'll wait for a second pair or hands to help with the actual
removal.
Looking through the level sensor hole I can see a small
>> On Mon, Jan 29, 2018, 9:57 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft
>> berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut
>> down 2x4 scre
When my starter failed, it burned causing a lot of smoke and excitement. I
think the solenoid contacts stuck in the closed position causing large current
flow. In any case a fire on board is a bad day.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver
> On Jul 10, 2018, at 7:01 AM, Gary Russell via
I, too, had trouble with the tank manifold when I got my boat. The pointy end
of the valve handle has to be in the proper orientation to select the tank. I
still have to look at the almost hidden label to determine which way that is. I
think the pointed end is toward the outlet of the manifold
I used the dark bronze plexiglass and you can't see the join.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 9:45 AM, M Bodnar via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Ditto. The Kylon Fusion flat black worked well for me.
> -
>> On 2018-03-13 11:19 AM, Frederick G
My 1994 37/40+ has a light colored stain on the teak, I suppose, in an effort
to lighten up the cabin. I, also, wonder what I would use to match the color.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC
> On Feb 27, 2018, at 3:26 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
Canadian regulations require fire extinguishers to be recertified yearly. It's
probably a good thing but I always complain about the cost.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC
> On Jun 27, 2018, at 6:59 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> make sure the powder is not compacted, need to
I have an Evadry dehumidifier that has run more or less constantly for three
years and it’s still going. It takes about 1/2 liter per week out of the air. I
need to run small heaters in the winter to prevent the dehumidifier from
freezing. One of my better purchases
Al Liles
SV Elendil
I like my Dyneema lifelines for all the same reasons as Jerry, plus it’s easy
to splice yourself thus making it cheaper still to install.
I read that chafe is an issue but it’s easy to check any chafe points and I’ve
never found a problem. I don’t have any 250 lb crew on the rail, mostly, so
When I upgraded the halyards to dyneema, the clutches (Lewmar) slipped quite a
bit before they would grab. I cleaned and lubed the mechanism inside the clutch
and it worked much better.
Cheers, Al
>
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list
Last summer my two shaft zincs and one prop zinc were gone in six months. I
hung a zinc fish, connected to my shaft with a slightly modified jumper cable,
during the winter. Three weeks ago I sent a diver down to change the zincs and
he reported that all were good. Conditions change,
Hi Lee,
Creola was for sale when I was looking for my boat, four years ago. There’s
probably a reason she’s been on the market for so long. As others have
mentioned, a good survey is your best bet. Even if you have to walk away, it’s
well worth it.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC
Many of our boat’s rudders are supported by Delrin bushings. Many of these
parts have lasted a long time. When they need replacement I would suggest using
Delrin AF. It’s PTFE impregnated Delrin, somewhat slipperier than the original.
Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC
This year my tank started to fill rather slowly. Trying to fill faster resulted
in fuel backing up in the hose. I haven’t gotten to it yet but I’ll replace the
fill and vent hoses to see if that cures it.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40
Vancouver BC
> On Oct 30, 2019, at 1:37 PM, Ken Heaton via
I used a sharp chisel to get the Plexus off.
Alan Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
> On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:22 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies, sounds like I can use either 3/8" or 1/4". I'm going
> with 3/8" (9mm) for the extra strength and so it
What color lacquer did you use on your 37/40? My 37/40 has a light lacquer on
the teak below decks which is nice because it lightens up the interior. My
problem is matching the existing color when fixing water damage.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
> On Feb 11, 2020, at 3:38 PM,
aring plate on top of the deck. The only thing that restricts
> upward motion is a Delrin shim washer that sits between the top of the rudder
> and the bottom rudder bearing.
>
> Gary
> SV Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, Ri, USA
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
>>
Hello All,
The rudder on my C 37/40 was clunking while running before a following
sea. I removed the pedestal and cables to replace my idler plate and when I
grabbed the radial quadrant atop the rudder post to check for play I found
quite a bit (3/4"or so) of axial play (up and down). My question
Last time I had a yard do bottom work they suggested zinc rich spray paint
(cold galvanize). I let them apply it and two years later it looks pretty good,
no hard growth at all. This time I did my own bottom work and I redid the prop
the same way. It’s certainly cheap enough.
Al Liles
SV
My forward hatch is an Ocean 70 but my four cabin hatches are Coastline 20.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
> On Jun 19, 2020, at 9:54 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Len,
>
> Thanks. The “70” and “20” was all I really needed. I’ll find specs.
>
> All the best,
>
>
I’m using Yanmar premixed coolant which I get from my local marine store at a
reasonable price. I changed mine last week after three years and the old stuff
looked the same as the new. There are about 200 hours since the last change so
it was time.
Al Liles
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
I used a sharp chisel to remove the old glue. There was a bit of damage where
the gelcoat pulled off. I patched it with white epoxy filler and the new
acrylic covered over all my shady filling and sanding.
Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
> On Jun 2, 2020, at 3:18 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via
I have found, when using heat, I first heat the screw very hot, then squirt
water on it to cool it rapidly. It seems the shock of rapid temperature change
breaks the bond.
I have been consistently impressed by my 1/4” impact driver. It pops out
fasteners that look corroded and seized quite
Ken is correct. I’ve replaced mine with the Offshore Spars version. $145 and it
fits like a glove.
Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 2:37 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Bruce,
>
> If you like, I can sell you mine. I’ll make you a great
I replaced my fixed port lights two years ago. I used 1/4 “extruded plexiglas
with VHB tape and Dow 795. The plexi had enough flex to accommodate the curve
of the cabin and the VHB tape held it in place. The 795 was used to seal the
gap. The installation was the easiest part of that job. The
When I refit my 37/40 the riggers wouldn’t touch it; too old. I replaced all
the standing rigging and fittings. It was just shy of $20k Canadian.
Cheers, Al
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 1:07 PM, David Risch via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original
I had a boat painted with Imron. I was very happy with it. It was somewhat
cheaper than Awlgrip but you need supplied fresh air when spraying as it’s
fairly toxic.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver
> On Feb 24, 2021, at 7:20 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Well, the
I, too, thought the Marco pump would be good for my system if my Shurflo quit
working. Thanks for the warning. My Shurflo is quite loud. I’d like to find a
quieter pump that has a smallish footprint. Let us know how you make out.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver, BC
> On Feb 4, 2021,
Here in Vancouver, my boat guru suggested zinc paint for the prop and shaft. I
wasn’t too sure but now I’ve seen several yards using it. My prop and shaft
come out of the water (yearly) without hard growth on them. I’m sold.
Al Liles
SV Elendil, C 37/40+
Vancouver BC
> On Oct 25, 2021, at
I want to replace my prop shaft due to wear at the packing. Does the rudder
need to be removed to get the shaft out on these boats?
Cheers, Al
Be prepared to replace the idler plate under the pedestal. The original plate
is steel which suffers from corrosion. Edson doesn’t make a direct replacement.
The one that they sell is quite a bit thicker, requiring a spacer between the
cockpit sole and the pedestal. I had a machine shop fab one
I solved the hollow river issue by using large SS bolts (short but wide)
drilled through the center to accommodate the steering cables. The machine shop
that watercut the new SS plate did them on a lathe. The whole assembly cost
less than $500 CDN.
Al Liles
C/40+
Vancouver BC
Please show your
Rivet not river.
Cheers, Al
> On Aug 3, 2023, at 3:29 PM, Alan Liles wrote:
>
> I solved the hollow river issue by using large SS bolts (short but wide)
> drilled through the center to accommodate the steering cables. The machine
> shop that watercut the new SS plate did them on a lathe.
We’ll be there. We’re in Ladysmith tonight. I hope to get in before low tide.
Looking forward to seeing the C gang.
Al Liles
C 37/40+
Elendil
> On Aug 3, 2023, at 9:06 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Calypso is staying in Port Ludlow, I have someone who saw the Boattrader
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