Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

They typically are rectangles, thin sheet metal, and when they flex, over time 
they can open up the welds, depending on where they are on the tank.  
Especially when there are baffles involved. The only really safe tank would be 
cylindrical, with elliptical heads. Which of course doesn’t work well with the 
spaces we have to deal with. If I WERE to make another SS tank, it would be 
with at least 12 Gauge SS. And a lot of detail.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 6:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill:  What’s the issue with stainless tanks?

 

From: coltrek--- <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:38 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: colt...@verizon.net 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

 

  _  

On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.

Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the last 
couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.

I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S. 



Chapter two,  

This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Bill:  What’s the issue with stainless tanks?

From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA






On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:


Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.

Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the last 
couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.

I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S. 


Chapter two,  
  This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.





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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Top your fuel tank up often keep it nesr full if you can and dont mind the
extra weight. Fill from a jerry can through a filter. Buy you fuel from a
busy station which will usually mean they have fresh fuel in their tanks.
Still you may have troubles with water and MBG. Use fuel additives
Stanadyne for diesels marvel mystery oil for gad A4

On Thu, Nov 15, 2018 at 5:08 PM Robbie Epstein via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sludge in the tank definitely has to go, but I had an interesting
> situation one time that may be relevant to the engine stopping problem.
>
> One time while motor sailing on a starboard tack, trying to get back to
> port before a nasty squall line came in, the engine quit without warning.
> I had a quarter of a tank of fuel, but the fuel lines had to be bled to get
> it started again.  I went through all the gyrations of fuel filter changes,
> looking for leaks, etc.  It turned out that the fuel dip tube in the tank
> is located close to the starboard side and only goes down to about an inch
> from the bottom of the tank.  With the boat heeled over at least 20 degrees
> on a starboard tack and only a quarter of a tank of fuel, with the fuel
> sloshing around, the end of the dip tube was exposed often enough for air
> bubbles to enter the fuel lines causing an air lock.  There are probably a
> number of elegant solutions to this issue, but I never let the tank get
> below 1/2 full now and have never had the problem since.
>
> Robbie Epstein
> C 40-2 TMDK
> Thorfinn
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Sludge in the tank definitely has to go, but I had an interesting situation one 
time that may be relevant to the engine stopping problem.

One time while motor sailing on a starboard tack, trying to get back to port 
before a nasty squall line came in, the engine quit without warning.  I had a 
quarter of a tank of fuel, but the fuel lines had to be bled to get it started 
again.  I went through all the gyrations of fuel filter changes, looking for 
leaks, etc.  It turned out that the fuel dip tube in the tank is located close 
to the starboard side and only goes down to about an inch from the bottom of 
the tank.  With the boat heeled over at least 20 degrees on a starboard tack 
and only a quarter of a tank of fuel, with the fuel sloshing around, the end of 
the dip tube was exposed often enough for air bubbles to enter the fuel lines 
causing an air lock.  There are probably a number of elegant solutions to this 
issue, but I never let the tank get below 1/2 full now and have never had the 
problem since.  

Robbie Epstein 
C 40-2 TMDK
Thorfinn

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

Just a reminder that aluminum fuel tanks last 20 to 30 years.  Plastic tanks 
are not likely to last 10 to 15 years.  Everyone seems to be down on aluminum 
because our boats are getting old but aluminum served its purpose well.

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 2:16 PM, coltrek--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. 
> You have to do research, or pay more for custom built -
> 
> Bill Coleman 
> C 39
> 
> 
> 
> On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
> available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
> Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?
> 
> In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
> fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them 
> that I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years 
> ago my buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my 
> suggestion, and within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different 
> place. At which point he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I 
> removed my own steel tank several years ago, that was not leaking, and 
> replaced it with a plastic tank.
> My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an 
> aluminum tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't 
> look back.  The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than 
> the cost of a new plastic tank.
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie PA
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

I got mine from Kracor, almost a perfect fit. 
You have to do research, or pay more for custom built -

Bill Coleman 
C 39
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 Richard Bush  wrote:
 Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've posted this before but here it is again.  I installed an Algae-X fuel
conditioner (I think now known as AXI) as part of Touche's diesel repower
in 2003.  I have used NO additives and have had NO fuel issues since.
Having said that, Touche' has always been a fairly active boat with around
1400 hours on the diesel since the repower.  That's about 100 hours per
year or 60 gallons of diesel annually.  With an 18 gallon tank, that's a
turnover of about 3.5 tanks a year.

Here's a picture of Touche's Racor 500 series fuel filter with vacuum gauge
and Algae-X fuel conditioner installed between the tank and filter.  It's
hard piped into the filter inlet just visible to the right of the filter.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsdVl2cnd3NEJrWG8

Here's a link to info on the fuel conditioner.

http://www.diesel-fuels.com/algae-x/magnetic-fuel-conditioning.php

http://www.downwindmarine.com/Algae-X-Magnetic-Fuel-Conditioners-LG-X-Series-p-91002268.html

I know some think the fuel conditioner is smoke and mirrors or a close
cousin of the food preservation pyramid.  (
http://www.discovery.com/tv-shows/mythbusters/mythbusters-database/pyramids-and-fresh-food/).
All I can say is I haven't had any fuel issues with one installed.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Jim Eagon via CnC-List]

I have had similar problems with "Trinity's" (84 C 37) fuel system. She
still has her original fuel tank and engine.
She quit on me several times at sea, necessitating repairs en route.

The culprit? Slime and dirt in the tank. Polishing and additives did not
help, as chunks of slime would dislodge and then plug the intake tube
screen.
I finally had to pull the tank, have it cleaned and pressure tested. All is
good now, but I can't help be think I should eventually replace it with a
plastic one.

I also replaced the pick-up tube and fuel gauge sender, since I didn't want
to have those 30+ year-old items fail later.

Fair winds and following seas!

Jim Eagon
"Trinity"
'84 C 37


On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 11:13 AM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be
> dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that
> could stir things up.
>
> So the next day we began the investigation.
>
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
>
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
>
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you
> can look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
> running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
>
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
>
> So the questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?
> We never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
>
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
> has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
>
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in
> the front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the
> middle (I think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you
> dissolve the sediment?   How did you flush it all out?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I got mine from an outfit in New Jersey. Cheaper than Amazon, but I had to pay 
shipping. Ended up about the same. Keep the little guys in business.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Richard Bush via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard Bush 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: colt...@verizon.net <mailto:colt...@verizon.net>  mailto:colt...@verizon.net> >
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA

  _  


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Went from leaky aluminum to slightly smaller Moeller plastic. I’m pleased.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Edward Levert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2018 12:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

 

Richard:

 

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

 

Ed Levert 

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone


On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

 <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Jim Brown via CnC-List]

We had something similar happen to us while leaving the marina in False
Creek and managed to sail back to the dock. In investigating the problem, it
appears that it may have been water in the fuel but decided it would be a
good time to clean out the tank and lines. We removed the fuel tank and
cleaned it out best we could by swirling small amounts of fresh fuel around
the tank and dumping it - repeated several times until appeared clean.
Changed out the fuel hoses and renewed the "O" ring on the fuel intake plug
on deck. Old sea water cooled Yanmar running just fine.

Jim Brown
"Flash Over", C 34
Vancouver, B.C.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON
JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Make sure you measure the overhead clearance. You may need to put an elbow on 
the fill nozzle. 

Some plastic tanks have angled fill nozzles. 

All things to look at. 

I heartily support switching to plastic tanks IF your existing tank is not 
Monel. If you have a Monel tank, keep it. 

Excellent time to replace the fill hose also. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 11:25 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Richard:
> 
> Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
> plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.
> 
> Ed Levert 
> C 34 Briar Patch
> New Orleans
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something 
>> readily available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
>> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
>> Thanks 
>> 
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush 
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Richard:

Measure your existing tank. Then check the Moeller web site for a compatible 
plastic tank. USCG approved. Ordered from Amazon. Fit like a glove.

Ed Levert 
C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 15, 2018, at 10:57 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
> available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
> fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
> Thanks 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> 
> Richard N. Bush 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Bill, I like your thoughts on the plastic tanks...are these something readily 
available in standard sizes or do they have to be individually 
fabricated?...either way, what/where would you recommend for sourcing one? 
Thanks 
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: colt...@verizon.net 
Sent: Thu, Nov 15, 2018 11:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[coltrek--- via CnC-List]

In my opinion, aluminum is one of the worst materials for a fuel tank. I have 
fabricated  stainless steel tanks many years ago, even though I told them that 
I didn't advise it, that they should get a plastic tank. A couple years ago my 
buddy had me (made me ) repair his aluminum tank against my suggestion, and 
within the year, it was leaking in an entirely different place. At which point 
he grudgingly replaced it with a plastic tank. I removed my own steel tank 
several years ago, that was not leaking, and replaced it with a plastic tank.
My unsolicited advice, is that if you have an opportunity to remove an aluminum 
tank, is to distance yourself as far as possible from it and don't look back.  
The labor in removing and reinstalling is worth much more than the cost of a 
new plastic tank.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie PA
On Thursday, November 15, 2018 robert via CnC-List  
wrote:
 Dito herelast Fall removed my 33 year old aluminum tank because of a few 
pin hole leaks.had a new bottom welded on.
 
 Took approx 14 gals of diesel from the tank into 5 gal container(s)the 
last couple of gallons of the diesel looked more like a 'diluted mud'..very 
brown in colornot exactly sure what the bottom looked likethe machine 
shop that did the repair pressure washedthey told me that even after the 
pressure wash, they still wait a few days before doing the actual repair in 
order to wait and be sure all the fuel vapors are gone so as to not cause an 
explosion/fire when the welding begins.
 
 I wasn't having engine problems with the fuel at that point but from what I 
observed coming out from the tank, it was only a matter of time.  And remember, 
the fuel pickup line/filter draws from the bottom of the tank.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32- #277
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 Chapter two,  
 
This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.
 
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

+1 on the Starbrite fuel tank cleaner.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+ 
"Astralis"Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Don,

Had this issue on our 33, culprit was  bottom crud getting stirred up and 
plugging the screen on the fuel pickup. We polished the fuel a couple of times 
and the issue would still occur occasionally - solution was to remove the 
screen on the fuel pickup, I actually replaced the pickup tube. I also used the 
Starbright Diesel tank cleaner and their fuel conditioner, and have had no 
issues since - also my primary filter is clean, very little crap in the fuel. I 
also put a small polisher system in to the boat as the tank had holes for 2 
extra pickup/returns.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Like Dennis says, there's no one way to do this.  My 2 cents on Fuel Polishing. 
 

Fuel worried me a great deal when I bought my boat since it had sat for two 
years.  I don't motor much so the fuel sits and gets older each year.  I have 
an 18 gallon tank, so I got me three 5 gallon jerry cans and ran the level down 
at the end of one season and over the winter, I pumped the remaining fuel out 
of the tank and gifted it to a friend's heating oil tank.  I removed the fuel 
sender which gave me a large enough access hole, I could swab out the bottom of 
the tank.  There wasn't a great deal of sludge and my worries may have been 
unjustified.  But I knew what I had.  Then I added the correct amount of 
biocide and SeaFoam for 15 gallons and added fresh fuel to the tank.   Result:  
I found my Universal M4-30 started easier and more reliably every time.  That 
was 12 years ago.  I believe in using clean Fresh Fuel whenever possible.  


Did some research on Parker filters and how they are rated for something like 
500 gallons before changing.  I keep spares aboard but I only burn about 20 
gallons a year.  I changed my filters after 7 years (140 gallons)  and they 
looked just fine.Now it's been 9 years but I burn even less fuel since 
moving my boat to the Chesapeake Bay.  I may change the filters this year or 
next. 


Chapter two, 

This year my 29 year old OEM aluminum fuel tank developed pin holes and red 
liquid leaked onto my freshly painted bilge.  I bought a new 30 gallon plastic 
tank and new fuel lines and will install those over the coming winter.  This 
will give the boat enough range to run from Cape May to Block Island and should 
be good for another 30 plus years.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On November 14, 2018 at 3:32 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> +1 on everything Charlie said.
> 
> I installed a vacuum gauge on Touche' years ago.  Great decision.  Let's 
> me run the filter elements much longer than before.
> 
> I am pessimistic about fuel polishing.  Unless the vendor has a super 
> dooper high pressure rig that can blast the corners and really suck 
> everything out, they are a waste of $$$.  A friend of mine went to take his 
> boat to a race once in moderately rough seas.  Got about an hour out and had 
> filter element pluggage.  Changed elements and got boat back to home marina.  
> Had fuel polished.  Started out next day with same result.  Wasted $$$.
> 
> It is much, much better to remove the tank and clean it than to have the 
> fuel polished.  If you can get the tank out, inspect it for pinholes, throw a 
> handful of gravel in it, shake it a lot then rinse it thoroughly with water 
> followed by alcohol.  
> 
> Last year I helped a buddy clean his tank.  He couldn't remove it so he 
> installed a diesel safe inspectin port in the top.  We emptied the tank, 
> reached in and wiped all the crud out with rags.
> 
> When I bought Touche', I completely cleaned the fuel system.  It was 
> gasoline powered at the time and had been sitting for years.  The fuel line 
> was a copper tube.  I disconnected each end, placed a coffee can at one end 
> and squirted carburetor cleaner from the other end until it ran clear.  
> 
> I guess my point is that there is no silver bullet here.  Having a clean 
> fuel system is critical and is worth any amount of work to make it reliable 
> is worth the effort.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 1:50 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > +1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel. 
> > +1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation 
> > can introduce air leaks where they are installed.
> > 
> > Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
> > 
> > +1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of 
> > boat. A pita but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel 
> > pump via sender port).
> > 
> > AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, 
> > start searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.
> > 
> > FWIW
> > 
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C XL/kcb
> > Water Phantom
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> > Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
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> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Is there a way to tell if air has gotten in the filter housing?  I have a
Racor 200FG that has a clear bowl.  It leaks a small amount of air and once
or twice a season the engine will die because of it.  It usually doesn't
die on flat water.  I've figured out that the bubble of air gets trapped in
the top of the racor where it can't be seen in the bowl.  Then when the
boat heels (particularly to port) the suction ports on the racor become
exposed to the bubble and the engine dies.  When the boat flattens out, the
fuel covers the ports, and we attempt to restart the engine, it takes
little effort and seems to be back in working order... Until next time.  Or
until the bubble grows large enough to uncover the suction ports even when
the boat is flat.

I installed a bleed system and nearly always remove some air when it is
used.

As other's suggested I also installed a vacuum gage so I can tell when the
filter is dirty.  See them both in the video below.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Wed, Nov 14, 2018, 2:12 PM DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be
> dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that
> could stir things up.
>
> So the next day we began the investigation.
>
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
>
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
>
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you
> can look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
> running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
>
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
>
> So the questions:
>
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?
> We never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
>
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
> has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
>
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in
> the front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the
> middle (I think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you
> dissolve the sediment?   How did you flush it all out?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

I had same problem until I had the tank repaired and cleaned. The blockage
was happening between the tank and the primary filter. I had to blow in the
hose to clear. Yuk!  I bought a soccer ball pump that worked well.
Later, installed a squeeze bulb to prime the system.  A secondary benefit
of bulb was when the engine quit the bulb would go flat and I could
immediately tell if the hose was clogged.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 3:03 PM Dennis Peters via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I had a very similar problem last year, although it cost me a tow to
> figure it out. Eventually we had the tank taken out and cleaned. It wasn’t
> cheap, but it gives me a lot more confidence for next year.
>
> Cheers,
> Dennis
>
> Dennis Peters
> dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com
>
>
>
> > On Nov 14, 2018, at 15:42, DON JONSSON via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the
> marina.  Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.
> Repeat a few times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel
> gauge not being configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second
> culprit may be dirty fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the
> tank and that could stir things up.
> >
> > So the next day we began the investigation.
> >
> > We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked
> the primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the
> engine again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we
> rev'd it hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put
> it back to idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil
> confidence.
> >
> > In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can
> see the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest
> shines.  If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely
> light and moves.
> >
> > So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one
>

> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis Peters via CnC-List]

Hi,

I had a very similar problem last year, although it cost me a tow to figure it 
out. Eventually we had the tank taken out and cleaned. It wasn’t cheap, but it 
gives me a lot more confidence for next year.

Cheers,
Dennis

Dennis Peters
dennis.k.pet...@gmail.com



> On Nov 14, 2018, at 15:42, DON JONSSON via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  
> Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few 
> times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being 
> configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty 
> fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could 
> stir things up.
> 
> So the next day we began the investigation.
> 
> We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
> primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
> again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
> hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
> idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  
> 
> In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 
> inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see 
> the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If 
> you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.
> 
> So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
> look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
> following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
> well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?
> 
> We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In 
> fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.
> 
> So the questions:
> 
> 1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
> never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.
> 
> 2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
> 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
> alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both 
> claimed by alternator repair people.)
> 
> 3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
> front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
> think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
> sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Don Jonsson
> Andante, C 34
> Victoria
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

+1 on everything Charlie said.

I installed a vacuum gauge on Touche' years ago.  Great decision.  Let's me
run the filter elements much longer than before.

I am pessimistic about fuel polishing.  Unless the vendor has a super
dooper high pressure rig that can blast the corners and really suck
everything out, they are a waste of $$$.  A friend of mine went to take his
boat to a race once in moderately rough seas.  Got about an hour out and
had filter element pluggage.  Changed elements and got boat back to home
marina.  Had fuel polished.  Started out next day with same result.  Wasted
$$$.

It is much, much better to remove the tank and clean it than to have the
fuel polished.  If you can get the tank out, inspect it for pinholes, throw
a handful of gravel in it, shake it a lot then rinse it thoroughly with
water followed by alcohol.

Last year I helped a buddy clean his tank.  He couldn't remove it so he
installed a diesel safe inspectin port in the top.  We emptied the tank,
reached in and wiped all the crud out with rags.

When I bought Touche', I completely cleaned the fuel system.  It was
gasoline powered at the time and had been sitting for years.  The fuel line
was a copper tube.  I disconnected each end, placed a coffee can at one end
and squirted carburetor cleaner from the other end until it ran clear.

I guess my point is that there is no silver bullet here.  Having a clean
fuel system is critical and is worth any amount of work to make it reliable
is worth the effort.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Nov 14, 2018 at 1:50 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel.
> +1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation can
> introduce air leaks where they are installed.
>
> Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.
>
> +1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of boat. A
> pita but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel pump via
> sender port).
>
> AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, start
> searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.
>
> FWIW
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

+1 on the uselessness of polishing your fuel. 
+1 on use of vacuum gauges if properly installed—their installation can 
introduce air leaks where they are installed.

Screen on pick-up tube could also be clogged.

+1 on removing all current fuel and crud by getting tank out of boat. A pita 
but doable if you can empty it first (electric or manual fuel pump via sender 
port).

AFTER it is cleaned, check out operation. If problem still there, start 
searching for vacuum leaks or filter problems.

FWIW

Charlie Nelson
1995 C XL/kcb
Water Phantom


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Wednesday, November 14, 2018, DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina. Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times. We 
thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel. Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank. Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad. Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times. Trying again we rev'd it hard 
just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to idle. 
Now it seems to run fine. But it doesn't instil confidence. 

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank. We put a camera in there and can see the bottom 
of the tank is about 50% covered with black. The rest shines. If you swirl a 
stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters. The secondary filter is not one you can look 
into so it could be there. Sailing the boat with little fuel in a following sea 
would definitely stir things up. But why is the engine running well now if it 
is a plugged filter? Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap. In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters? We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be? The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through. Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel. We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think). The hole is small to options seem limited. Can you dissolve the 
sediment? How did you flush it all out? 

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Years ago, while returning some distance from a regatta, my engine decided
to stop. I started it up and found it would run at about 1/2 throttle.
Motored that way for 45 miles. Took the Racor primary fuel filter apart and
I was shocked that any fuel could have gone through at all! Solid black.

Replace the filters, both primary and secondary. Try again.
Gary
30-1


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of DON JONSSON via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON 
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.
Got it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few
times.  We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being
configured correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty
fuel as had been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could
stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2
inch?) hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see
the bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.
If you swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and
moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine
running well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In
fact I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only
has 500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both
claimed by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

What about air in the fuel lines?  Tighten all clamps fittings and see if that 
helps

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DON JONSSON 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 3:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.  

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?  

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




Sent from my iPad
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

[David via CnC-List]

Crud has built up in tank over the years and will block the pickup.  Thats why 
it starts again.   Crud drop off pickup.

Whatever ya gotta do get rid  of the fuel and clean the tank of the crud.

Everything else is a half measure (I have not heard good things about fuel 
polishing) and doing it  right will give you peace of mind.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of DON JONSSON via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2018 2:12 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DON JONSSON
Subject: Stus-List Dirty fuel?

The other day when motoring the engine quit when pulling into the marina.  Got 
it going again to make the slip but then it quit again.  Repeat a few times.  
We thought the most likely culprit was the new fuel gauge not being configured 
correctly and had run out of diesel.  Second culprit may be dirty fuel as had 
been sailing with very little fuel in the tank and that could stir things up.

So the next day we began the investigation.

We hadn't run out of diesel and there is about 1/4 of a tank.  Checked the 
primary filter which is new and it doesn't look too bad.  Started the engine 
again and it ran and then quit a couple of times.  Trying again we rev'd it 
hard just before it could die and it kept going even when we put it back to 
idle.  Now it seems to run fine.  But it doesn't instil confidence.

In the C fuel tank you can take out the gauge and you have a little (2 inch?) 
hole you can see into the tank.  We put a camera in there and can see the 
bottom of the tank is about 50% covered with black.  The rest shines.  If you 
swirl a stick in there the black sediment is definitely light and moves.

So perhaps it is the fuel filters.  The secondary filter is not one you can 
look into so it could be there.  Sailing the boat with little fuel in a 
following sea would definitely stir things up.  But why is the engine running 
well now if it is a plugged filter?  Why didn't it require bleeding?

We got a quote to polish the fuel tank and it is decidedly not cheap.  In fact 
I'd go all the way to damned expensive.

So the questions:

1. Has anyone else had a similar experience and was it the fuel filters?  We 
never had to bleed the lines and the engine now runs fine.

2. Does anyone have another idea as to what it could be?  The engine only has 
500 hours on it and starts and runs like a top (if you forgive the two 
alternators we have already gone through.  Manufacturing fault on both claimed 
by alternator repair people.)

3. Can someone give advice on how to clean the fuel.  We have access in the 
front of the tank but not behind the baffle which is about in the middle (I 
think).  The hole is small to options seem limited.   Can you dissolve the 
sediment?   How did you flush it all out?

Thanks for any help.

Don Jonsson
Andante, C 34
Victoria




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