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http://www.economist.com/48KQZbai/editorial/freeforall/current/index_ir6917.ht
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<A HREF="http://www.economist.com/48KQZbai/editorial/freeforall/current/index_
ir6917.html">The Economist</A>
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INTERNATIONAL
Fasting and feasting
B E I R U T


ASK a Muslim Arab for his favourite time of year and the odds are he
will say Ramadan. For, although the Koran’s injunction to let
nothing—neither food, water nor smoke—pass the lips in daylight hours is
taken seriously by most, so too is the celebration that accompanies the
breaking of the fast at dusk.

What with Christmas and the new year falling during the current month of
Ramadan, and the short winter days making the fasting less onerous than
sometimes, the people of the Middle East are now enjoying a convergence
of festivities they have not seen in 30 years. Throughout the region,
Arab bureaucrats’ notoriously short working days shrink yet further, as
hordes of office-workers hurtle home at sunset for the iftar, the first
of two special Ramadan meals. Traffic snarls up, and the queues at kebab
take-aways and Pizza Hut outlets suddenly double. By the time the
traditional cannons signal that it is safe to eat, the streets are
deserted and people are tucking into a lavish meal—often in
mock-Oriental tents.

Despite the fast, grocery sales tend to go up during Ramadan, thanks to
the evening feasts. Many Muslims admit to gaining weight during the
month; in the Gulf, doctors issue warnings against obesity. Electricity
consumption also rises, as the sated masses settle in front of Ramadan
specials on television, or flood out to the streets to shop, eats snacks
and promenade.

The conservative emirates of the Gulf enforce the fast the most
stringently. Most have laws prohibiting people eating, drinking or
smoking in public during the day. Foreigners caught breaking the rules
find themselves slapped with fines or even prison sentences. Kuwaiti
members of parliament have called for temporary bans on supposedly
irreligious forms of entertainment, such as belly-dancing. They have
even mooted a moratorium on female attendants on the national airline.
And clerics, like their Christian counterparts at Christmas, routinely
rail against the commercialisation of a season originally intended as a
time of self-denial.

In most of the Levant and North Africa, there is no penalty save
embarrassment for breaking the fast. So some savvy café-owners paper
over their windows to let the less devout enjoy a cup of coffee or a
sandwich away from disapproving eyes. In Beirut, the Arab world’s most
liberal city, people sit sipping beer in street cafés in the Muslim half
of town as the observant stride past, eyes averted.

In Cairo, Christmas lights merge with Ramadan lanterns, but Beirut, with
its large Christian population, takes this ecumenical spirit to
extremes. One Muslim talks about sitting down on December 24th to a
“Christmas iftar”; others gather for family snapshots in front of a
Christmas tree during their evening Ramadan strolls. Even in Beirut,
however, some barriers still remain: on the line between the Christian
and Muslim halves of the city, the seasonal lights change from cherubs
and Christmas trees to stars and candles.

©1999. The Economist Newspaper Limited. All Rights Reserved
-----
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