The issue with desoldering and resoldering the capacitor tabs, or similar
parts, is thermal capacity. Regardless of how hot the tip of the soldering
iron or gun is, there has to be enough mass or energy to rapidly offset the
loss through the soldered connection, chassis, etc. The tip of a
Weller 100/140 gun
Insufficient heat. I have found that about once a year I have to back off
on the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down.
Probably gets oxidized ? In any case and this may be in particular to my
guns ( I have two of those ) If I can't hear
Dremmel tool wiht small cut off blade or Dremmel diamond tip bit with a
small drill.
Jim
WA9zbv___
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1- Drake R-4B, S/N 9588C. Cabinet has been repainted and looks good
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1-Drake T-4XB, S/N 16680R. Cabinet has been
On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 08:58:23 -0400, K9sqg wrote:
The issue with desoldering and resoldering the capacitor tabs, or similar
parts, is thermal capacity.
I thought I said that :)
But seriously, my fixed temp WTCPN with a 700 degree tip will handle some
pretty big stuff with a decent chisel
On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 09:30:24 -0400 (EDT), gypsym...@aol.com wrote:
Weller 100/140 gun
Insufficient heat. I have found that about once a year I have to back off
on the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down.
The same thing applied to my larger Weller 200/260
Same
I just replaced the filter caps in a Drake 1A and R-4B using a Weller
100/140. That gun is a hopeless match against the chassis. Any future
filter cap changes on copper-plated Drake equiopment will be with big
wattage soldering iron as many others have suggested..
Paul, W9AC
That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun,
the contacts for the tips get corroded. I used to have a Wen 100/200
watt pencil gun that had a different design and never had to reestablish
the contacts. And it could be used for more precision work. Used it
till it
My Weller D-550 (240/325 Watt) was easy to find new tips for. It's a powerful
gun that does big jobs well, especially PL-259's. I keep it tinned up, and
this
tip has lasted for about 5 years.
Mark
N5KAE
From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon,
The Weller guns work fine for can type electrolytic's - once you figure out
how to do it, it's easy! I've changed lots and lots. Instead of using
Weller tips, I use 10 ga. Copper wire. It works fine too and it way cheap.
Dave, N7TC
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net
You can fight the solder with heat OR
take the easy way and grind the solder
joint with a Dremmel and cut off disk or
a diamond tipped grinding bit that
Dremmel also supplies. I know Iknow,
some one will bring up dust and the
Mayan Calendar and possible
meteor...never really an
Real soldering irons are rated in pounds.
:-)
John K5MO
PS: I do have one that has a heating element about 1 in diameter. It
laughs at PL-259's. ... I think I paid $1 at a garage sale for it. The tip
is a 3/8 chunk of tinned copper.
At 05:19 PM 3/28/2011, Paul Christensen wrote:
I just
Nice tip! Thanks ... I always keep flux around here.
-Original Message-
From: Jim Shorney
Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2011 10:09 PM
To: DrakeList@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps
On Sun, 27 Mar 2011 21:48:23 -0500, mikefur...@att.net wrote:
You might start out with a
I don't like the idea of a bunch of metal filings flying all over...but
I guess I could put rags close by, then vacuum?
73,
Lee
-Original Message-
From: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Mar 28, 2011 7:22 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] Unsoldering Caps
On Mon, 28 Mar 2011 17:29:44 -0400, Loren McCullough wrote:
That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun, the
contacts for the tips get corroded.
Not corrosion, per se, just a slight oxide coating that forms as the nuts
loosen up during heat cycles. It's just regular
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