Greetings to you all.
I'm new to the Drake world and I just recently traded for a R-4A/T-4X combo
that had sat unused for many years. While the equipment is in pretty decent
shape over all, all of the mechanical elements were gummed up with hardened
grease, oil and nicotine deposits
Richard -
I'm sorry. Didn't mean to 'attack' like that. This TR-4C that we've been working on for about 500
messages has about gotten on my last nerve! :-) I just KNOW it's going to be something silly that
I missed 487 messages back.
Even after all that yesterday, I still didn't remember
Garey,
No problem. I have been halfheartedly following that TR4C thing and
understand.
No relay click and no idle current. Must be the relay. I'll check it out.
I did pull and reseat all tubes . I also switched out V1 and 10 in the VOX
circuit. Still nada.
73 to all and thanks.
Rick
Hello to the list. I am looking for a S meter and R36 and R33 Pots for a
R4C that UPS hammered in shipment. Thanks Darryl WA5TOO___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
I'm going to start this with a request for a working 4-twins PTO if anyone
would like to sell one to me.
I'm wondering, though, as I tightened up the end-screw of the main tuning
shaft, if the guide-fork that rides along the upper shaft is supposed to be
really loose or not. The frequency
Hi Steve,
To answer one question, at least, Yes, the fork is loose purposely.
The spring that attaches to it and leads back across the top of the case
towards the outside keeps it tight against the shaft to that side.
The shaft should be smooth. If the spring isn't there you get backlash.
If it's the Varley, you need a PB (Tyco) R10-E1-Y4-V2.5k, available from
Mouser and Digi-Key.
You'll need to add a 1.5k 1W resistor in series with the coil, otherwise a drop-in replacement. Look
at the socket for V10, the 6FQ7 (or 6EV7). Remove the wire connected to Pin 6 and move it to Pin
Lou -
You'll have to go to
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
at the bottom of every message you get from the list and follow instructions there to unsubscribe.
No one else can do it for you.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and
Thanks, Curt Al. That's what I thought - there would be no logical reason
why someone would make that fork loose.
I can't help but think that my problem is mechanically-induced. I guess I'm
going to have to take the whole bloomin' thing apart so I can clean off the
slug.
Steve Wedge,
Steve -
The chrome rider bar and follower should be clean, with NO lubrication. Ensure that the spring is
pulling the follower FIRMLY against the bar.
Examine the slug closely for any cracks or loose segments.
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA
Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and
I bought a couple of relays for the TR-4 or TX-4 that looked like the right
thing, but I am not sure. They say on them:
AMF R-10-ET-P4-V700 24V DC.
Kris KM2KM
Merschrod
607 -257-1734
Ithaca, NY
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Gang,
Donnie WA9TGT is back making parts for Drakes again, here is the URL ..
http://www.2bradioparts.com/
73, Gary W8PU___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Hi Gary, et al,
Yup, I just got a personal note from him too, it's great to have him
back in circulation. His old website with his call in it has been
pirated (legally) so disregard it. use http://www.2bradioparts.com/
73,
Al, W8UT
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info
There is nothing
I want to take the plunge and buy an FS-4. The Drake Virtual Museum page reads,
Complete general coverage, no crystals to buy. When I found the manual it seems
to spec only 11.1 to 40 Mhz coverage. I suppose the manual is correct. Where is
the emoticon for confused?
14 matches
Mail list logo
