Also,
Since there is a PS problem...be DARN SURE all caps are discharged before
touching anything...the bleeders may not be working.
Make sure there is no voltage anywhere !
73,
Lee
-Original Message-
From: L L bahr pulsa...@embarqmail.com
To: John King k5...@yahoo.com
Cc:
I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of the
eight cap previously changed. At least one 50K 50 watt bleeder appears open. I
plan to replace all caps, diodes and resistors. Not interested in changing
layout of supply or redesigning it physically.
Is there a
This may be the droid you are looking for:
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/ElectrolyticRelacements.htm
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Fri, 17 Jan 2014 18:06:14 -0800 (PST), John King wrote:
I have the power supply out of covers and the caps and mounts loose. Two of
the eight cap
Thanks Jim. That is a wonderful technical article. I will certainly follow it.
I have never soldered brass rod. Is it difficult? Any special solder required?
I really appreciate your assistance. 73, John, K5PGW
On Friday, January 17, 2014 9:50 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:
I've never done it. But I may need to in the near future, My L-7PS is still
running on original caps. Clean brass with 63/37 Kester solder and maybe a
little extra liquid rosin flux should work fine. The only thing that may be of
concern with this method is the length of brass rod running along
Jim and fellow Drake enthusiasts,
That is an interesting point Jim brought up. This is the reason why I used
Teflon tubing on the brass rods, sometimes with heatshrink as well, and used
RTV or hot glue to hold the caps in place so there is air spacing between
adjacent caps. The originals
Thanks for the input, Evan. I'll keep this in mind.
73
-Jim
NU0C
On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 00:07:41 -0500 (EST), Evan Rolek wrote:
Jim and fellow Drake enthusiasts,
That is an interesting point Jim brought up. This is the reason why I used
Teflon tubing on the brass rods, sometimes with
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