Hi all,
Ken aa7jc said
I have not done much testing yet since I don't have anything that
draws that much current.
I have a couple of drums of mains cable known in the UK as 2.5 TE,
the 2 conductors are 2.5 mm sq and earth is about 1.5. The inner end
is available so I soldered the two main
Tom,
While you can run the ladder line right to the shack and connect directly
to the K2, a balun mounted outside and a coax run to the rig works well and
you avoid having to run the ladder line inside which sometimes can be
problematic. There are several low cost 4:1 baluns on the market
Hi,
My K2 (#4979) worked just fine untill yesterday. After setting L34 for
the best
signal-to-noise ratio and placing the top cover back onto the chassis I
found, all
of a sudden, that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And
there were
no sound from the external speaker jack
Rolf,
It sounds to me like you have a malfunctioning connector - likely the one on
the end of the speaker cable. If the terminals were malformed during the
assembly process, they are high on the list of suspects.
It is also possible that the headphone jack has failed - the contact that
provides
Hi Gang, was wondering if any one is using there K2 with the Tokyo hy-power
hl 100 bdx
Thanks and 73
Ed
WP4o/4
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Tom - You should use a 1:1 balun to feed the balanced line with the K2
tuner. You can easily make one by wrapping a dozen or so turns of RG-58
through a type 43 or 61 core FT140 or larger. Diz, at
http://partsandkits.com/index.asp
is a good source of these toroids.
Alternately, you can slip a
Rolf, SM0YQC asked:
...placing the top cover back onto the chassis I found, all of a sudden,
that there were no audio from the internal speaker. And there were no sound
from the external speaker jack either. Now I have only audio from the
headphone jack. All worked well before. What can possibly
FS: K2/100 with the following options:
1. K2 S/N 34_ _
2. KPA100 INTERNAL AMP
3. KDSP2
4. KAT100-1
5. KSB2
6. K60XV
7. KNB2
8. K160RX
9. MH2 - HANDMIKE(NEW)
10. FDIMP
This radio is in like new condition upgraded to latest
rev level. 2.5 SSB MOD, Keying Bandwidth Mod, etc.
Filters
The 1st time this happened to me it was because I plugged into the wrong P5!
on the control board. Didn't see the one on the RF board. But that's the
kind of bone head guy I am. Ask the list, I needed lots of help. hi hi
Okay, I got past that, but after only two contacts, indeed my head phone
Hello all ATers,
Well another section to hike in my quest to hike the entire AT in PA! I
plan to hike the AT from Swatara State Park to the Susquehanna River in
PA. This will be around a 35-mile hike that I plan to start on Tuesday
and finish off on Friday, August 26th. At this point I don't know
What is the consensus on a good (or best) wire stripper for stripping the
various wires found in the Elecraft kits?
Any suggestions for an automatic hand stripper for 16 to 26 gauge stranded
and solid wire?
Matt - K7OE
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Hi Matt:
What is the consensus on a good (or best) wire stripper for stripping the
various wires found in the Elecraft kits?
Any suggestions for an automatic hand stripper for 16 to 26 gauge stranded
and solid wire?
Not automatic, but excellent:
#30-#20 AWG
I'll second Tom's recommendation. I've had a set like those shown in the
links below for 20+ years now. There are other types that are adjustable
and cheaper because one tool covers everything but they require setting
something for each size of wire. Slow and not as clean and easy as the plier
On 21 Aug 2005 at 8:40, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
Two things will make matching easier. Get two
baluns, 1:1 and 4:1. Put them on the two
antenna ports of the ATU
Looking at the two versions of the BL1 for 1:1 and 4:1
Can you not use a 2pco ( dpdt ) switch or relay to change between the two
Good Evening,
Thank you for joining us this evening. It felt good to be back on the
air but I surely need practice :( Sorry about the flubs and such. I will
make sure to set the rig to TEST mode next week and run at 20 wpm until I
get it right.
The second check in was from sunny
Yes, it can be done, Mike.
Remember that the 4:1 balun will be happiest seeing
an impedance around 200-300 ohms, though. The
4:1 ratio really only holds when the impedances are
correct. Once you throw in a mixed load that is
well away from this value, plus an unknown amount of
reactance, the
I finally got around to applying Gary's fix (Thanks!) for the problem
where I couldn't center the narrow filters at 1000Hz in one of the RTTY
modes (reverse R for low bands, normal R for high bands). My K2 #3121
apparently had a stiff set of X3/X4 crystals.
I used Elecraft's 2.7pF NP0
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