Thanks! I had to wait for the KSB2 kit so I built the basic K2 first.
In my case I was thinking of keeping it as a battery portable, and using
an external antenna tuner if needed, but I'm of two minds on where to go
from here.
There were a couple of things that I had problems with, one of the
Jason,
Look for unsoldered connections on the front panel board.
Turn the RF Gain fully counterclockwise to see if the LED Bargraph
illuminates.
For the LCD display, peek under the LCD to see if pin 1 of the U1 socket
was missed during soldering - that does happen frequently. If pin 1 is
not
On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 12:10 AM, Fred Townsend ftowns...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
...BTW the military now uses a lot of COTS products. COTS means Commercial
Off
The Shelf. That's mostly because COTS works well and is a whole lot
cheaper
-
Yeah, here's a story about that: one of my
Congrats to Don KD8NNU, for he admits to absorbing the help offered here
and he goes so far as to admit he has been reading the K3 manual. With
an attitude like this Don may be on the dxcc honor roll before too
long. 73 bob de w9ge
Ron,
The last step in the left column of page 61 directs you to put tape on
the bottom cover at the L33 location so the resistor leads do not
contact the cover. If you did that, your suggestion for covering the
bare leads of R116 is not necessary. If you omitted that step, get out
your
I have not actually been following this thread but I should add that
working split in pileups is an acquired skill. Just managed to grab a
QSO with ST0R on 17m CW this morning (5W to my bit of string...). In
this case the pileup was spreading 10kHz up the band and sounded
fierce. But he was
On Tue, Aug 2, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Dave Sergeant d...@davesergeant.com wrote:
Once I had realised that...
==
Good story, Dave, and your point is so true. And congrats on working him
with 5W. Unfortunately, it seems that some folks have a reflex that shuts
off their realizers as soon as
1. At the top of page 26 in the DSP manual, second
paragraph it states that...The .n2 which briefly appears
informs you that the denoiser has been set to the fouth
level. Is that right? A 2 means a 4?
This is a typo in the document.
2I must repeatedly press (not tap)
STORE for each
I've notice that lately, on this reflector, there seems to be a lot of K2s and
K2 modules being built. I wonder why? I built my K2 6113 about four years
ago and since then I have added SSB, DSP, KAT2, 160m and the KPA100. I've
thought about buying a K3 but, every time I talk myself out of it
The hum is due to magnetic field in close proximity of the speaker...usually.
Sometimes RF gets into them usually on the power cord. Ferrite fixes this,
moving the speakers fixes the former.
Chuck, KE9UW
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View this message in context:
Ha! I just put a Elecraft Noise Gen. kit together...missing one of the screws
for the battery holder.
BUT!
All the other important parts were there, so I forgive them. I love the
instructions and the way stuff just works when it's done.
Chuck, KE9UW
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RFI problems with the computer speakers are generally due to the
absence of the bypass components recommended by the amplifier chip
designers. I have seen several inexpensive computer speakers with
holes for the bypass caps on the circuit board (the chip maker's
reference design) but no parts.
The K3 seems like the perfect radio, but the K2 is a good rig and a
better fit for me:
I couldn't afford a K3.
I like to solder.
I don't think I need that much firepower; I'm not a contester or DXer.
73, Wayne Conrad KF7QGA
On 08/02/11 08:34, Gary D Krause wrote:
I've notice that lately, on
I suspect it's because the K2 is a kit in the vein of the old Heathkit kits,
whereas the K3 is more like building your own PC (or Mac).
Matthew Pitts
N8OHU
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-Original Message-
From: Gary D Krause n7...@bresnan.net
Sender:
K1 is sold pending receipt of payment.
FS: Wilhelm-built (Mar. 2010) Elecraft K1, s/n 2865, in as-new condition,
with KFL1-4 (40, 30, 20 15M) KFL1-2 (80 17M) filter boards, KNB1 Noise
Blanker, K1BLKLTKIT-X Backlight. Also comes with KBT1 Battery Adapter, which
has not been installed. All
Is it normal for the KX1 to shut off if it sees a short across the BNC
connector (no RF applied)? I'm trying to use a 4:1 Guanella balun (which
looks like an electrical short) but the KX1 shuts off if it's in line. I
tested this behavior by simply shorting the BNC, also.
73,
Casey
Casey,
That can happen if C44 fails shorted. Turn the KX1 on and measure the
voltage at the center of the BNC jack. If it is not zero, replace C44.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/2/2011 1:34 PM, NA7U wrote:
Is it normal for the KX1 to shut off if it sees a short across the BNC
connector (no RF
Has anyone thought about a Mobile Bracket for the K3?. Not just a U shaped
piece of metal, but a tray or semi tray with friction locks and arms,
adjustable, engineered for late model cars. And, of course, to be shipped in
pieces so we can put it together. Wayne I know you are busy how about
Oddly enough I tried a different power supply and it was OK. Then I
tried again the previous PS and it was OK. ?? I will check C44, however.
On 8/2/2011 2:41 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Casey,
That can happen if C44 fails shorted. Turn the KX1 on and measure the
voltage at the center of the BNC
Robert,
How about a remote head kit for the K3?...the bracket would then be a little
easier to design and install.
Gary
On 3 August 2011 07:15, Robert Kirkland alph...@triton.net wrote:
Has anyone thought about a Mobile Bracket for the K3?. Not just a U shaped
piece of metal, but a tray or
Has anyone thought about a Mobile Bracket for the K3?
How about a remote head kit for the K3?...
But guys, that's why God invented the KX3!
Ralph, VE7XF
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On Tue, 2011-08-02 at 09:54 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Ron,
The last step in the left column of page 61 directs you to put tape on
the bottom cover at the L33 location so the resistor leads do not
contact the cover. If you did that, your suggestion for covering the
bare leads of R116 is
On Tue, 2011-08-02 at 09:34 -0600, Gary D Krause wrote:
I've notice that lately, on this reflector, there seems to be a lot of K2s
and
K2 modules being built. I wonder why? I built my K2 6113 about four years
ago and since then I have added SSB, DSP, KAT2, 160m and the KPA100. I've
I think I'd invest in a small foam box for it and include a 50 to 100 ohm 1
or 2 watt resistor across the power feed from the shack (since the 9V
battery won't withstand those temps for long anyway). That way the T1 will
remain warm 24x7 if you maintain the dc supply. That also avoids
The K2 is unique! I built mine eleven years ago. It's still very much up to
date. Of course I operate with a couple of Drake twins sometimes! I added the
modules as they became available. I don't chase DX, or work contests (except
field day) so I don't find any need for the K3. Now the KX3 is
Ron,
If you are going to use your K2 mobile in a vehicle that will subject it
to excessive vibration, then you concern about R116 and the L33 toroid
leads is valid. In normal circumstances (even in passenger car mobile),
it is not a problem. Ham radio does not normally build to avionics
Thats why I am going to get a KX3,,, with a DF loop ant to track down all
the wireless headphones that have intruded 6 meters
Ed K7WIA
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esto es una prueba
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In the operations manual it mentions that two power levels can be programed
into the K3, a low power driver setting, and higher level for operating without
the amp.
Despite my best searching, I can not figure out the process.
Cordially,
Bruce J. Howes
Sent from my iPad
Bruce, the instructions are in the release notes with the K3 firmware.
Here's how you do it:
First, be sure you are using the latest K3 firmware. If not, download and
install it from the Elecraft web site (www.elecraft.com).
Hook up your KPA500 to the K3 using the required cable (KPAK3AUX or a
Aaargh - I forgot to say to exit the CONFIG menu after setting PER BAND.
Ron
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Tuesday, August 02, 2011 7:48 PM
To: w1...@mac.com; 'Elecraft EMail
Thank you Ron and everyone else.
I could not find that somehow, just tried it, including presetting the power
levels, boy does work slick!
I very much appreciate the level of help and guidance displayed here, 100%.
Cordially,
Bruce J. Howes W1UJR
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 2, 2011, at 10:50
I looked and thought about it but was unable to come up with any good ideas. I
found a TS-440 and bought a mobile mount from Ebay for it. I tried it on the
K3 but the K3 is a little bigger than the 440 and would not fit. I fount the
TS-440 too big for my F-150 Pickup and purchased a
Thanks to all that responded.
I did consider heater like Ron suggested, but in my remote control
configuration the DC power is going to be supplied only while the station is
in use (12v bench supply is on). Turning on the 12v supply to the tuner
energizes a relay removing the antenna from ground
Folks:
I'm consolidating radios. I have a K1, serial number 1945. I built the radio,
aligned it, and set all the filters using Spectrogram. Works like a champ.
It is in like new condition. It has been lovingly and rarely used.
Non-smoking ... and never seen the outside of the shack. Here are
My KPA500 went together well EXCEPT I could not get isolation between U3 and
the heat spreader but I continued assembly any way.
Now when I switch on I get 0 HV message in the readout.
BTW the reason for the delay between assembly and this email is that the XYL
and I have just spent a week in
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