Tom,
With R6 out, and DC voltage on U4 pin 3, but 0 volts on U4 pin 1, you
certainly can suspect that U4 is toast. Unless you have a solder bridge
between U4 pins 2 and 3 *and* no connection between pins 1 and 2 - that
would be 2 failures, and we normally expect only a single failure, so a
bad
As per Gary's suggestion, I removed and rewound T1. I also reflowed all the
joints in the SWR bridge and on U4. With R6 out, I still measure 0.0 V and
with it in I'm still under 3 v. With it in, I read the same 2.4V as before.
While I can't confirm the actual output power exactly, my MFJ tuner
Tom,
The voltage at U4 pin 3 should be between 3 and 4 volts with 5 watts of
power flowing through the wattmeter section of the KAT2 *and* with the
FWD potentiometer (R1) fully clockwise.
U4 is configured as a unity gain op amp, and the voltage at the output
(pin 1)should be equal to the volta
Still no solution for my power problem. Some correspondence with Gary at
Elecraft has me back where I started. I removed R6 and saw 0V at the output
of U4 but 2.5V on the input of U4 coming from U1 (pin 3 on U4). According
to the testing in the manual this should be 3-4 volts with a requested po
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