>>One tip: make sure of the orientation of the connector pins before 
soldering especially on heavy gauge wire. This can be a bit tricky as the 
pin will want to rotate on the wire as soon as you touch it with the 
soldering iron (Murphy at work). It's important so you don't have to twist 
the conductor to get the pin into the connector.<<

The above quote regarding the orientation of the pins is very important and 
this is how I handle it...Any heavy duty soldering iron will do, probably, the 
bigger, the better...I have used an old 40 watt Hexicon and a Weller heat gun, 
both work well... 

Clamp the stripped cable in a small bench vise with the stripped end protruding 
horizontally out the side of the vise jaws...Grip it on the insulation leaving 
about an inch of  insulated cable sticking out...Slip the connector pin onto 
the wire, tin the iron, and press the hot iron against the outer end of the 
wire-socket on the pin, pushing the pin straight inward.against end of the 
wire...This holds the pin in place and keeps it from rotating...Apply the 
solder to the BACK of the pin where the wire enters the solder cup...When the 
pin is hot enough, the solder will melt and wick into the joint with little or 
no buildup on the outside of the solder cup...Don't over heat it or the 
insulation will melt and shrivel back...I chill it by dripping alcohol on it 
with an acid brush...If any solder builds up on the outside of the pin and 
interferes, don't try to reheat it...Solder is very soft and can be shaved down 
with an Exacto or razor blade...

Jerry, wa2dkg

Jerry, wa2dkg
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