...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Pierfrancesco Caci
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 6:15 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Construction Questions
Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32
Terry,
I would suggest you purchase a #1 Phillips screwdriver. That along with
your ESD safe work area and your DMM will be all that is needed - yes,
you will need a power supply - use 13.8 volts (or up to 15 volts), and
the power needs a coaxial 2.1mm plug - center positive, and a dummy load
Terry, Don's recommendation to use a #1 Phillips is right on. It's a perfect
fit for all the different screws in the kits. I would also like to recommend
the version with the 8 inch long shaft for several reasons. First, the
longer shaft allows you to approach some long sideways angles where there
I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32 screw
head. Also, all Phillips screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a lot of
confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
Phillips and cross-point screwdrivers.
That's why the instructions suggest
This is true although when I built my K2/100 I used a magnetized tip #1
and #2 Phillips, both with 8 shanks.
I wouldn't go anywhere near one of these kits with an electric screw
driver. I don't care how adjustable the torque is.
I do use one building PC's but not Elecraft kits.
On 1/29/2012
On 1/29/2012 9:57 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32 screw
head. Also, all Phillips screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a lot of
confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
Phillips and cross-point
I agree that buying cheap tools is often a foolish gamble but there's more
to it than that.
The tips of *real* Phillips No.1 and No.2 screwdrivers are different. The
No.1 tip comes to a point where the No.2 and No. 3 have blunt end.
And then there's the other cross point tips that many confuse
On Sun, Jan 29, 2012 at 1:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
The tips of *real* Phillips No.1 and No.2 screwdrivers are different
=
Yep. A German company called Wiha sells a nice set of Phillips that
have worked well for me. They're available at lots of places in the
Terry and All,
With regard to screw drivers; Phillips screw drivers are what you need to use.
Phillips screw drivers have a small flat point on them. You have to look
closely to see that on the small ones.
Reed and Prince screw drivers, however are cut to a sharp point and look almost
the
Terry, be aware that the correct amount of torque is determined as much by
the objects being fastened by the screw as it is by the strength of the
screw.
In some places, a screw threads into soft plastic. Any extra movement beyond
the point at which the head touches the surface will strip the
I would add that when the screwdriver no longer does that, it is time to
replace it.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/29/2012 12:57 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
A good fitting Phillips screwdriver will allow you to hold the screwdriver
horizontally with the screw on the end and the screw won't fall off.
Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
I can't see a #1 Phillips being a good fit for both a 2-56 and 6-32
screw
head. Also, all Phillips screwdrivers are not the same, thanks to a
lot of
confusion between different manufacturers and even confusion between
Phillips and cross-point screwdrivers.
This is a question for those experienced building Elecraft kits ...
I'm waiting for my first Elecraft kit, a kx3, and I was thinking I should
be prepared when it arrives.
I looked around the Elecraft website, and didn't see any specific assembly
practices.
I read a few of the assembly manuals
On Monday 16 January 2006 03:35, Clint Sprague wrote:
When you install a component on the printed
side of the circuit board, and then you tip the board
over to solder, what are accepted methods to keep the
compenent from falling off?
I use a pencil eraser between the board and workbench
to
Fine tool from Weller - the ESF 120:
http://www.f6blk.net/main_fr.php?page=9
and
http://www.labem.pl/obrazki%20weller/esf120.JPG
Simon Brown
---
http://blog.hb9drv.ch/
- Original Message -
From: Ian Stirling [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Monday 16 January 2006 03:35, Clint Sprague
Joe,
I would suggest not getting scotch tape anywhere near any ESD sensitive
components.
It develops quite a charge due to the triboelectric effect when you
strip it off the reel, and as a result, if it does not outright kill the
device, it can make it a walking wounded, working at first,
I would suggest not getting scotch tape anywhere near any ESD sensitive
components.
I find those bits of black sponge that elecraft package their chips in to
be quite useful... once you've freed one or 2 of them up of course.
--
Nosey Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;
I'm attempting my 1st contruction project in many
years...
CMOS4 keyer, and I have what is probably a pretty
stupid question that maybe others can answer for me
here. When you install a component on the printed
side of the circuit board, and then you tip the board
over to solder, what are
I just took a certification class at work for IPC-610(D) whihc is for
solder inspection. So, I'm now authorized to answer your question! The
method of bending the leads over is called cinching the leads and is
acceptable as long as the component lead does not get close to other
circuit
Clint, WS1V asked:
When you install a component on the printed side of the circuit board, and
then you tip the board over to solder, what are accepted methods to keep the
compenent from falling off? I've read that you should bend the leads to
hold the component onto the board but I was wondering
- Original Message -
From: Clint Sprague [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Construction question
I'm attempting my 1st contruction project in many
years...
CMOS4 keyer, and I have what is probably a pretty
is
often tenuous :).
On Mon, 16 Jan 2006, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote:
- Original Message - From: Clint Sprague [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:35 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Construction question
I'm attempting my 1st contruction project
I noticed the ham who took pictures for the site build his add-ons first.
Should I be doing that?
Or is it OK to build the kit and then the Antenna tuner?
--
Cheers,
Alan
From the Mandrake Linux ver 9.2 system of Alan, VY2WU
A Windoze free zone.
Alan,
The normal way is to build the K2 first and then do the options.
There is no way to properly test the options until after the K2 is up and
running.
You MAY do it the other way 'round, but you have been informed of the
consequences.
73,
Don W3FPR
-Original Message-
I noticed the
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