Hello Dave! 

Good to hear your build is going smoothly. To answer your specific
questions:

"...the standoffs on the RF board:
    Wouldn't it be better to mount all of the
standoffs on the RF board right at the start? If I'm
missing something here, please fill me in."

Three of the four standoffs are secured by screws that also hold the rear
shield that encloses the KPA3. It would be very difficult to install many of
the part on the top of the RF board with that shield in place so it and the
standoffs the shield mounting screws also hold are installed near the end of
the build. It seemed to make sense to install the fourth standoff with the
others to ensure it wasn't overlooked. Was there any difficulty reaching the
necessary parts to do that? We've not had any reports of problems so far.

"The Chassis Stiffener gets installed and then removed
if your installing the KPA3. It seems like you could
make the decision to install it or not based on if you
have the KPA3 option rather than remove it if you're
going to install the KPA3. I guess you would have to
make a note on the speaker grill cloth positioning but
I would rather do that than take out the top cover
screws an additional time."

You identified the issue there: ensuring the speaker grill cloth won't get
caught between the stiffener bar and the top cover when the cover is
installed. It seemed the most straightforward way was to mount the bar on
the top cover temporarily while the speaker is being fitted to ensure the
cloth is trimmed properly. It really doesn't matter whether the KPA3 is
installed. Wayne has asked that the stiffener be left in place when the top
cover is removed, so the grill cloth must be trimmed to avoid any
interference. You'll find all the installation procedures for options that
require opening the top cover say to remove the cover leaving the stiffener
in place. 

If you use a Phillips screwdriver that fits the screw snugly, you should not
have any problem scratching the screw heads. The screws must be snug, but
don't over-tighten them! You should never approach a level of torque that
would cause a properly-fitting screwdriver to slip out. 

"One great tip in the manual deals with attaching the
front panel assembly to the RF board. Make a note of
the screw in the 2D fastener that can block
installation when the DSP board hits it. PAGE 37. I'd
suggest removing it before attempting to mate the
front panel with the FOUR connectors." 

Not all the DSP boards strike that screw. It's very, very close! So we
didn't want to ask builders to pull it out unless it's in the way. 

"Also, when you
think you have it properly installed, check it at
least three times to make sure all pins are properly
inserted."

Yes, it's important to actually SEE those connectors to ensure they are
aligned, as shown in Figs 50 and 51. That's why, after much discussion,
Wayne ordered the side panels removed so you can see more clearly inside to
ensure they align the first time. Actually, once the system has been mated,
ensuring the connectors are all aligned, removing and remounting the front
panel is a lot easier although we go to great lengths to avoid your having
to do that in the future. 


"On Calibration of the Reference Oscillator - I found
that I had to readjust the audio level of WWV and the
Monitor level several times before I think I got it
right. Also, it would seem to me that if the
calibration is done correctly, you should be able to
hear the undistorted audio annoucement from WWV at the
top of each minute. It should be nice and clear.
Someone correct me if I'm off base here....."

Yes, when zero beating the two tones in CW mode, it's necessary to have them
at the SAME audio level to hear the beat clearly. You didn't hear the
announcement clearly because you were still in CW mode. Switch to SSB or AM
mode and you should hear the announcement fine. Some builders who have
trouble hearing the beat do the reference oscillator calibration in SSB
mode, switching between sidebands while listening until the tones and voice
announcements sound the same on either sideband. 

I hope this clears up your questions and that you got the rig going FB. One
cardinal rule is to not work when you're tired. It's too easy to skip or
misread a step. As many builders have noted: "measure twice, cut once"
applies here!

Ron AC7AC


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