John,
You're going to really enjoy building and using the KX1. I've been hooked
on the KX1 for a few years, and it's my favorite rig. I don't go hiking,
camping, or mountaintop operating -- but the KX1 is fantastic for sitting
out on the deck, throwing a line into the trees (or putting up the
For an easy way to get more power with internal batteries, you might look
into using PowerGenix NiZn rechargeables. They give have over 1.7v/cell and
are rechargeable. They're not as cheap as some of the NiMH rechargeables,
but that chemistry at 1.2v/cell is a poor match for the voltages needs
If you're willing to spend about $40, a small [like 750mAh] Li-Poly
battery will work great. Mine is a little smaller than a small box of
matches, 12V for about 4W on 40/30/20, and it will last through a 4-hr
Flight of the Bumblebees. You do need an Li charger. Mine would easily
fit inside
Hi John,
Basically, yes; if you want to get more than 2 watts out of the KX1, you need
an external power source. If you look at the specs on page 5 of the manual, it
says:
Transmitter
Max. power output (approx.)
9 V supply 1.5 - 2 W
12 V supply
John,
The power output of the KX1 is dependent on the power supply voltage.
A well constructed KX1 will normally deliver 4 watts on 80, 40 and 30
meters, and 3.5 watts on 20 meters with a 13.8 volt power source. Some
will do a little better and some a bit worse than that target figure.
The
Wow--I received a plethora of responses, all pretty much saying what Don's
said here - external 13.8 power supply will yield just about 4 watts.
Internal batteries, which are only going to run around 9v (6 x 1.5 = 9) will
only crank out around 2 watts.
Many thanks for the help. I'm dutifully
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list:
You might use a diode, such as a 1N914, 1N4148 or (preferably) a 1N5711
to rectify the voltage developed across the load and then measure the DC
out of the diode. With a high Z load such as a DMM, the DC voltage will
be close to the RF peak voltage.
A standard DMM, even a good one, will not
Ron,
Use a diode detector. A 1N4148 diode will do fine up to about 12 watts.
Connect the anode of the diode to the center conductor of your coax *at*
the dummy load (use a coax TEE adapter if you have no other access).
From the cathode end of your diode, connect a 0.01 uF capacitor to the
Ron,
I just went through this scenario. With the help of Don Wilhelm I was able
accurately measure my power out on my KX1 and K3.
I first used a homebrew load with free resistors given away at a club
meeting. They only worked at low frequencies. At 20 meters the SWR to far
off to be of use!
I
Paul,
Yes, what you observed is true.
The KXAT1 wattmeter will indicate more power with increasing SWR *if^
the load impedance is higher than 50 ohms, but if it is lower than 50
ohms, the power indication will be lower. In ATU CAL mode, when the
power output is 4 watts into a 50 ohm load -
Sorry for the typo - the max power indication on the KX1 is 6.3 watts,
not 6.8.
73,
Don W3FPR
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Paul,
Yes, what you observed is true.
The KXAT1 wattmeter will indicate more power with increasing SWR *if^
the load impedance is higher than 50 ohms, but if it is lower than 50
Tom, KM4CU wrote:
hello all. just completed myKx1. Power output is only 3w on 40, 2w on 20 @
13.7v. Any suggestions on any additional output power? Is there an
adjustment for the output indicator in the Kx1. thanks..
First make sure trimmer pot R4 is fully CLOCKwise now.
13 matches
Mail list logo
