Good Evening,
Two whole days have passed with no snow fall. What a relief,
February was interminable. But even with the warmer temperatures it
will take a while for all the ice and heavy snow to melt. It sure is
nice to see the sun again.
While the sun remains as blank as it was all
Little typo with big impact
The line
I recently integrated a DigiLo 6GHz PLL synthesizer with a 10Mhz double oven
OCXO into my 10GHz system and it is no rock solid. Should be
Should be
I recently integrated a DigiLo 6GHz PLL synthesizer with a 10Mhz double oven
OCXO into my 10GHz system and
A few days ago I tried FT-8 on 432 and discovered that my LO was not stable,
hopping around several Hz plus drifting up to 40Hz . The 9V LO power was flat
in both TX an RX, oven working. pushed, prodded, re-soldered, tuned, detuned,
no change.
I recently integrated a DigiLo 6GHz PLL
Jim,
Unplug the K160RX and then plug it back in to wipe any oxidation off the
pins. That may or may not help, but is one easy thing to do "just in case".
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/2/2019 6:23 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
OK. One thing common to it all that could be affected by the flexing of the RF
OK. One thing common to it all that could be affected by the flexing of the RF
board, is the J14
connector assembly. It looks like it could be a bit fragile, since it's so
tall. I'll check it again,
and then start tapping.
Thanks again Don. 73,
Jim KO5V
-Original Message-
>From: Don
Jim,
K1 and the entire 160 meter low pass filter is not in the path for the
RX ANT, so changing K1 will not help.
Remove the top cover (you can operate like that) and tap on things
gently with a pencil eraser to see if you can locate the problem.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/2/2019 4:17 PM, Jim
Long shot- anyone have one to sell?
Tnx,
Dale W4OP
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Don,
Switching to the RX antenna has no effect. The only thing that seems to work is
a tap on the back
of the left side panel, at about the 2d connector. That causes the 2Mhz birdie
to return. I've
touched up all of the solder joints on the 160M board, and on J14. Maybe K1 is
bad, but I'll
Jim,
Replacing K8 is not going to do anything for 160 meters. The relay that
switches in the 160 meter low pass filter is K1 on the K160RX board.
Try this the next time it happens - while on 160 meters, change the
antenna to the RX ANT jack and set the RX ANT menu parameter to ON. See
if
Thanks Don,
With the nut loose, it is much less intermittent. When it does hang up, a tap
on the back of the left side panel
causes the 2Mhz birdie to return, so I think I'll order a replacement for K8
just in case it's been damaged.
With hands like catcher's mitts,"Beefing" fasteners is
Jim,
Loosen the nut on the BNC connector or remove it entirely. Since the
BNC jack is soldered to the board, the nut is only there for "pretty"
All will work fine without the nut. The nut in any case should only be
a bit more than finger tight. "Beefing" the nut up tight can damage the
After removing and replacing the heatsink panel to install an SMA connector for
an IF-out port,
160M is working intermittently. I think I have narrowed it down to a problem
with the antenna's
BNC connector - It appears to be just slightly spaced away from the inside of
the back panel,
so when
Rich - thanks. The KXV3 is installed. Just need some BNC connectors.Tnx, Bob
K4RLC
From: Richard Ferch
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 2, 2019 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 w/RSP2 & SDR uno
If your K3 has the KXV3 option installed (a row of 5 BNC connectors
I have these items, built for sale. They are excess to my needs.
Asking 75 for the package including all items, plus a couple of bonus
surprises. These are QRP devices and would work well for portable. Used with
my KX1.
Photos direct email are available. Please reply off list.
73,
Bill
Hi,
I have an ALS-1306 amp, and Elecraft control cable for sale. Bought a
KPA-500, so the ALS is no longer needed. If interested, contact me OFF
LIST directly at my email.
--
73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
Award Manager, 30MDG Grid Awards
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL
Mark,
Yes, that is the new diode for D10. Unfortunately the manuals have not
caught up with the parts available.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/2/2019 11:25 AM, Mark Yergin wrote:
I am building a K2 and on the RF board there is diode D10. It's listed as
95SQ015. I cannot find this diode in the RF
I am building a K2 and on the RF board there is diode D10. It's listed as
95SQ015. I cannot find this diode in the RF bags. I do find SR1503 which
has the large black body that I'm to be looking for. D12 I found.
Do I use SR1503 or am I missing D10?
Mark W8EWH
Richard;
What do you mean by “things go into default”?
The KPA500/KAT500 combo should play very well with the 7610. exactly what are
you seeing?
Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering
> On Mar 2, 2019, at 7:30 AM, Richard Lawn wrote:
>
> I'm considering replacing my KPA500/KAT500 with the
I'm considering replacing my KPA500/KAT500 with the 1500. On the shack desk
I use a K3 and Icom 7610. Of course the KPA/500/KAT500 combo plays very
nicely with the K3, but I seem to be having some tuning issues occasionally
with the 7610 particularly if I move to a different part of the band -
If your K3 has the KXV3 option installed (a row of 5 BNC connectors just
above the CW and PTT keying jacks on the lower right back panel), then
there are two ways.
1) Connect the SDR to the IF Out jack and tune the SDR to the K3's IF (8215
kHz). You can receive signals in (or near) the same band
Just bought a K-3 from a friend, so I'm a total newbie. Apologize if this
question has been asked before.Is there a way to connect the SDRplay RSP2 with
SDR UNO (or HDSDR) to the K3?Tnx,Bob K4RLC
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Hi
PA temp readings jumping from -110C to 110C, looks like troubles with
temperature sensor. Where to start dig?
Dan
LY4OO
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