I've tried it both ways personally, and I guess through 18 years of hardcore
DXing I got used to the DX on VFO-A and the pileup on VFO-B. But the
argument could certainly be made for the opposite way. I'd wager that's how
Dxpeditions operate, transmitting on VFO-B and scanning the pileup on VFO-A.
Exactly what I have been doing for many years now and can’t see why I would do
it any other way. I switched my audio to my headphones to B-A instead of A-B
to keep the DX station in my left ear and finding where the last station who
worked him was located with my right ear.
Ken, NU4I
Sent
I have a couple of questions about the KPA1500's internal tuner.
For the most part, I leave the tuner inline. Except for two sub-bands (SSB
on both 40 and 80m) I am well below 2:1, and maybe 2.5:1 at the top end of
160m. The KPA does a good job throughout.
The problems/questions arise when I
This summer I intend to get an entry panel from KF7P, along with a ton of
arrestors inside for everything.
The real difficult part will be getting all the cables that now enter the
house at base of the tower and across the crawl space to instead run under
the deck. I'm to tall, too fat, and too
According to the fault table, LPF VMON is "incorrect bias voltages at
the TR switch".
I suggest you call or e-mail Elecraft Support with your concerns.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 3/11/2019 7:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:
What does this mean?
Other than that I can't transmit on FT8 right now? :)
Hi Hisashi,
This usually means there is a fault with one of the control voltages in the
amplifier.
I will follow up with you off list via direct email about diagnosing this
further.
73,
Eric
elecraft.com
_..._
> On Mar 11, 2019, at 5:55 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:
>
> What does this
Brian,
No problem with the KAT2 installed. Ty-wrap the speaker cable to the
KAT2 cable, but do not put any ty-wraps at the end of the battery.
If the speaker wire has ty-wraps that fall at the end of the battery,
cut them off.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/11/2019 9:00 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
I
I should also mention that the KAT2 is in the cover as well.
Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2019, at 7:33 PM, Brian Denley wrote:
>
> Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well? It seems
> like the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
>
>
What does this mean?
Other than that I can't transmit on FT8 right now? :)
I'm running KPA1500 MCU revision 02.09.
--
Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com K7EMI
BSEE + BSChem + BAEnglish + MSCS + $2.50 = coffee
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Pete,
I had a similar problemon lower end of 80 meters. Fix for me was to ground
outer jacket of all antenna cables where they enter the house. This eliminated
common mode current coming into the shack on a second coax.
Check your RX antenna cable, which does not go through the RCS-12.
Dave
I have always thought the K3 did it backwards.
Before the K3 I had a transceiver and a seperate RX above it.
The Receiver listened to the DX station and the Transceiver would tune to
find who was working him at the moment. Then the pounce!
So with the K3 I don't use the SPLIT button. I use the Sub
Brian,
I have both in my K2. Ty-wrap the battery wires and the KIO2 cable
together, but do not put any ty-wraps at the ends of the battery.
I also have the KAT2. In a similar manner, ty-wrap the speaker wiring
to the KAT2 cable, but not at the ends of the battery.
73,
Don W3FPR
On
I have both in my K2 with no problem. Well, I did until I removed the battery
and its holder; too heavy and too old technology. I also have a digital card I
got from Pauli, EA3BLQ (SK) that fits in as well. The KIO2 hangs on its plug,
but stays in place.
73
Jay K3BH
On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, at
Is the KBT2 going to fit ok with the KIO2 in the cover as well? It seems like
the battery is pinching the KIO2 coax cable pretty well.
Anyone else have both?
Thanks
Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
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Home:
that would be the ARRL handbook,,, it was for me
Bob K3DJC
On Mon, 11 Mar 2019 20:07:54 + (UTC) Al Lorona
writes:
> About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial,
> 'What to expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and
> again here even basic things like
Put a ceramic .1 uF across the connector on the door opener where the wire to
the button by the kitchen door comes from.
Chuck Hawley
c-haw...@illinois.edu
Amateur Radio, KE9UW
aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net on
behalf of
On 3/11/2019 1:40 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, although
I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The lightning
arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox (RCS-12L with the gas
discharge tubes), and
The Internet, HTML, Email, and Google have made finding answers much
easier. Unfortunately, for every increment of increase in use of these
sources, there has been a corresponding decrease in trips to the
bookshelf. There has also been a corresponding decrease in the ICFTO
Coefficient ["I
my garage door opens with only 500 watts. fun reminder about RF capture.
On Mon, Mar 11, 2019, 2:20 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> Three things:
>
> (a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.
>
> (b) ARRL Antenna book - contains everything you need to know and then
>
Three things:
(a) ARRL Handbook - contains everything you need to know and then some.
(b) ARRL Antenna book - contains everything you need to know and then
some.
(c) Grounding and Bonding, by Ward Silver, an ARRL Publication -
MANDATORY reading.
And of course one must visit the contents
Anyone who writes one should include a note about replacing older GFCI breakers
(ARRL website is quite helpful).
Tom W4KX
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 11, 2019, at 4:07 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
>
> About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to
> expect when you get
I've got my bonding about as good as I can get it for the moment, although
I'm probably going to do some improvements this year. The lightning
arrestors are built in to the RCS-12 antenna switchbox (RCS-12L with the gas
discharge tubes), and everything's bonded at the base of the tower. There's
a
There's also the traditional maxim: Get an amp, meet the neighbors.
...robert
On 3/11/2019 20:07, Al Lorona wrote:
About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to
expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic
things like cables,
If the “723” doesn’t fix it, call Astron. They don’t have much of a customer
service department, but the guy who answers the phone will sell you a
replacement “control board” for $20.00 plus $7.00 shipping. Assuming the diodes
and caps are still good.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On
I have that exact front-end protector on the main RX line from the K9AY, but
I didn't have it on the AUX antenna. I will now, obviously.
- pjd
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of j...@kk9a.com
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 1:58 PM
To:
Thanks to all respondents. To clear up one point... "Migration," as per
Elecraft, means to transfer whatever components in a K3 that will work
to a K3S. In my case, just filters. I end up with a new K3S and the
original K3, ie two radios. I have never operated SO2V in a contest. So,
my
About two months ago I posted that amateur radio needs a tutorial, 'What to
expect when you get an amplifier'. As we see again and again here even basic
things like cables, connectors, grounding, and house wiring that work fine at
100 W may be inadequate for 1500 W. We need guidance to study
On 3/10/2019 10:33 PM, Peter Dougherty wrote:
I have a 30 foot vertical ground-plane style antenna that I use for diversity
RX on 40 and 80, which was connected to the AUX antenna port. This was being
overloaded by the QRO power from the TX antenna feedpoints just a few feet
laterally and
I am not sure how a second antenna effects the amplifier, I believe that
the K3(S) has a safeguard from some overload conditions. If your RX
antenna is close to your TX and you run HP, I would protect your
transceiver from overload by either shorting the RX feedline during TX
or with a
As a follow-up, I've either fixed the problem, or it's become a lot more (or
less?)
intermittent...
Twice, I re-touched all of the solder joints involved with the 160M option,
both on
the 160M board and the K2's RF board - it never helped. Tapping on the 160M
board's
mounting screw, or the
It would also be very helpful if you can find the cause of the problem
inside the RS-20A.
There's probably more of those particular supplies and their family than any
others.
I'm fairly sure they use the old reliable "723" regulator that has been
around since it seems, Hertz experimented with
Hi Rick,
I did not have the same results as you have described using a hair dryer.
But, I didn't get the results I wanted or expected using a hair dryer based
on process documented in the Elecraft manual. If you can find an
incandescent light bulb (60w is fine) and try that instead of the hair
So I'm having the same problem as I've read in a few past posts (with no
resolution). At Approx. 40DegC I lose the signal in the speaker, the S meter
reads no signal, and the F value starts to wildly swing in the 700 range. I'm
directing my hot air at the heatsink for what that's worth. I had
Thanks for the info sir!
73s and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
Award Manager, 30MDG Grid Awards
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL OOC for Oregon
On 3/10/19 12:01 PM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
No, the save/restore restored everything to how it was before.
I am looking for two kits for the K2...the K6XX zero-beat indicator kit for
the K2 and the Rework Eliminators internal mic adapter kit for the K2. If
anyone has either of these kits that are excess to their needs, please
contact me off list.
73, John WB4GLJ
Does anyone have a built or un-built KSB2 SSB Option for K2 they would
sell? Please reply off-reflector to j...@w5la.net.
73, Jim W5LA
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Help:
Well, there's one final, further item to add to this. I've almost certainly
destroyed my sub receiver. It's not completely deaf, but very, very, very close
to it. Signals that are in the noise on VFO-B are S9 on VFO-A on the same
frequency.
Anything I can do to test this out? With Bouvet
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