Bill,
When you click "Copy New Files from Elecraft" that is just what it
does. So by the time you could check the directory, it was already there.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/2/2023 4:19 PM, Bill Lederer wrote:
I'm using the "Elecraft K3 Utility v1.19.9.6".
Clicking on the "Copy New FIles from
Eric,
You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
Remove the 2 black screws just to the rear of the front panel,
Then the 2 screws on the upper part of the rear panel.
There is one screw on each side panel near the top center.
Now you should be able to remove the KPA100 from the base K2. Place it
Dave,
Get one with the FTDI chipset and you should be OK. There are others,
but do not buy one with the Prolific chipset.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/11/2022 5:27 PM, dave arruzza via Elecraft wrote:
To all: I believe my KUSB cable has gone bad due to a power failure
Since the power failure a red
Hans,
First of all, check to see if you have power to the KAT100 - you should
have 12 volts on both ends of RFC2.
If that is correct, check to be certain there is +5 volts at pin 2 of
U2, U3 and U4.
If all is well so far, suspect that either the MCU (U1) or U2, U3 and U4
have failed.
73,
, so would the same BFO frequency for the receiver affect the
transmitter?
Best,
Chris KM1B
On Sun, Nov 6, 2022 at 1:56 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
Chris,
That condition is normally the result of improper alignment of the
BFO
frequencies for the upper sideband.
There should
Chris,
That condition is normally the result of improper alignment of the BFO
frequencies for the upper sideband.
There should be no difference is width for LSB and USB that could be
blamed on a part.
Use an audio spectrum analyzer (Spectrogram for instance) for best
results when aligning
Bernie,
I think Heil microphones are overpriced, but if you like the looks of
them, the perhaps that is an over-riding factor.
You can plug any mic with a Kenwood 8 pin connector into the front mic
jack. There are many Kenwood compatible mics on the market - but stay
away from the
l get the occasional encoder freeze-up.
2) Can I try and flow some solder on those damaged traces?
Thanks so much for your help!
Jerry
KI4IO
Warrenton, VA
On Sat, 2022-10-15 at 17:36 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Jerry,
That does sound like it might be a bad solder connection.
Try resoldering Front
Jerry,
That does sound like it might be a bad solder connection.
Try resoldering Front Panel RP1 and U2. Those components are critical
to decoding the switch matrix.
You might also try reseating Control Board U6 - but do so in a static
controlled manner.
With that 7xxx serial number, you
Greg,
The KX3 is designed around having the preamp on most of the time.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/10/2022 1:58 PM, WA1JXR ALGIERI wrote:
I have noticed with my KX3 that the S-Meter is not calibrated that is 50
microvolts (-73 dBm) at the antenna connector equals a S9 signal only when the
preamp
On the multiple lists vs. one list:
As long as the individual product is placed in the subject line,
multiple products are easily dealt with using filters.
Filter the posts any way you want (including deleting them) - learn how
to use filters in your email client and you can do things such as
Wolfgang,
In my experience, that is not necessary.
It IS necessary to have the bottom cover in place before running CAL PLL.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/30/2022 11:25 AM, Wolfgang wrote:
Hi,
in a german QRP forum I found this hint from Peter, DL2FI (SK).
In any case, the PLL calibration must be
Chris,
Do you still have sidetone? If so Control Board U9 is still active, so
check the MUTE signal and CB Q6 and Q7 operation.
If you have the KDSP2 installed, remove it and install 2 wire jumpers
one between CB J1 pin 1 and CB J2 pin 1. The second jumper between CB
J1 pin 2 and CB J2
Bill,
If you run 12 watts on AM, FM and digital then the supplied heatsink
(assuming it is the newer heatsink the wraps around the bottom of the
KX3) then it should be adequate.
If you want to run the full 15 watts on those modes, I would suggest
adding the Pro Audio Engineering heatsink for
been
back to you a couple of times (for what, I'm not sure). I'll ask him for
the serial number; it's the K2/100 with DSP and SSB, as well as the KAT100
to go with it.
Tim
On Tue, May 31, 2022 at 2:46 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
Tim,
There are several variations of a K2, so the fair price depends
Tim,
There are several variations of a K2, so the fair price depends on the
state of the upgrades (as well as the options installed). If it is
above SN3000 and if the KPA100 has been upgraded, it should bring a fair
price.
He should state which upgrades and options have been installed.
If
Dave,
What is the serial number of your K2 - if it is below 3000 and has not
been upgraded with the A to B mods, you could have damaged the MCU.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/27/2022 7:58 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:
Interesting. Thanks!
Dave
On Fri, May 27, 2022 at 7:53 PM David Woolley
wrote:
It's
Dave,
Disconnect pin 1 of your built adapter.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/27/2022 3:46 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:
Sorry... I forgot to say that I am using a short adapter cable, DB9-M to
DB-9F that eliminates all wire connections except for pins 1,2,3, and 5,
per instructions in the K2 Manual. It is
Dave,
DO NOT PLUG THE USB TO SERIAL CABLE DIRECTLY INTO THE KIO2!! It will
cause 'strange happpenings' and can even damage to the K2.
There is a special cable with a DE9 male on one end and a DE9 female on
the other end. The instructions for building it are in the KIO2
manual. it does
Chris,
That is quite feasible - getting a board is the starting problem.
If you can find a 2 band board for any band(s), you can order the
crystals for the bands you want from Elecraft.
They may also have the K1 band kits in stock which have the capacitors
required for that band. Worst case,
That message means that for some reason or another. the K3 is detecting
a key closure on power up.
Check your key and the contact spacing first, and then proceed to
anything that may be causing that message.
Don't overlook a stuck PTT switch, which can cause the same message.
If all else
The "problem" With shipping via UPS (at least when I was doing it) was
that If the insurance was $1000 or more, you had to arrange a pickup
(small pickup charge) and give the package to a UPS driver and obtain
his signature.
That was more than 5 years ago, so the rules might have changed. I
Go to the manual and look up how to recover from that condition (Forcing
a firmware download).
It on page 42 of my old manual under Firmware Updates, the page may have
changed in newer manuals.
It is easy to do and does not have to go to a repair facility.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/3/2022 1:37 PM,
Tony,
Elecraft has always used the thermal pads.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/29/2022 5:24 PM, Tony wrote:
All:
It seems that thermal compounds are not all the same and I was
wondering which type is best to use for transceiver applications? I
understand Elecraft uses thermal pads these days, but
Pete,
If you turn the RF Gain down gradually, do you get a progression of LEDs
to light one at a time?
If so turn the RF Gain fully clockwise and then adjust Control Board R1
to obtain 6 volts at CB U2 pin 5.
After that, adjust CAL S Low and CAL S Hi.
If your K2 SN is lower than 3000, R1 is
I agree with Fred (Skip)- electret mic elements are hard to beat,
especially with Elecraft rigs or others which have frequency
compensation. The electret elements are small and inexpensive. With
their flat responses, they will need some equalization for use as ham
mics - reduced low
Dave and all,
I have not used the Pace desoldering tool, but I have plenty of
experience with the Hakko 808.
The vacuum pump needs to be disassembled and cleaned of solder flux
occasionally and once that is done, it has plenty of suction. That
means the holes and plastic "flappers" in the
Dwayne,
I believe Elecraft has replacement switches.
You can try reversing the switch, only one side is used - remove it and
turn it around.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/13/2022 11:25 AM, Dwayne Barbee via Elecraft wrote:
The power switch for my KX1 has stopped working, does anyone know of a
Murray,
What microphone is your K2 wired for? Check the microphone
configuration header on the front panel if you don't know - the info on
plugging the header is in the KSB2 manual.
I don't know the wiring for that Kenwood adapter, but it may be
connecting to the wrong pin for your K2 mic
I have used electric elements in the D104 and they worked quite well.
If you want a dynamic element, I suggest the HC4 or HC5 from Heil
Sound. I don't know if Heil is still selling those mic elements
separately, but they do work well in the D104 (and other mics). Just add
enough foam padding
stion. Any idea if the scratchy audio
would persist if the KDSP2 was put into bypass mode? I tried that and
scratchy audio was still there.
Thanks,
-Andrew
On Sat, Feb 19, 2022 at 8:49 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
Andrew,
That sounds like you had the NB and/or NR set on in the KDSP2 with
Andrew,
That sounds like you had the NB and/or NR set on in the KDSP2 with
aggressive settings.
If the settings were aggressive, it would give you 'scratchy' audio -
but it does eliminate other unwanted signal sounds. You might want to
put the KDSP2 in again and try several settings - see
Wayne,
If you are seeking connections for various microphones, I can suggest
you consult the extensive list of microphone schematics and pinouts
compiled by G4WPW (SK). his information is preserved at
https://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html.
It does not have any 'mic quality' information, but if
Aaron,
I suspect that the firmware is not recognizing that the KAT2 is not present.
Make certain that all wires to the KAT2 board are present and well soldered.
It also could be that the KAT2 firmware has failed.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/12/2022 8:24 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:
This evening I tried to
Matt,
You likely have a problem with U7. At least, that is the thing that you
need to resolve first.
Sorry about U6, it usually makes a loud pop when the base and collector
are shorted. You will have to replace it before you get any power out.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/25/2021 2:51 AM, Matt
John,
Only one KXUSB is needed. The other is just a TRS to TRS cable.
The KXUSB cable must connect first between the KXPA100 and the PC. The
second cable between the KXPA100 and the KX3.
If connected that way, everything should work.
See if both the KXPA100 Utility and the KX3 Utility will
Doug,
I use 800 deg F and a wide tip to get the job done.
Of course my Hakko 808 is a lot easier. Clean the inside of the Hakkko
tip after a few toroids.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/24/2021 11:25 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
How hot does the solder need to be to burn off magnet wire
If you have the K2/100, remove the KI6WX mod - without the KPA100, it
makes no difference.
Make certain the SSB FL1 filter is set to OP1.
Check the position of the OP1 filter passband with Spectrogram . The
low frequency 'knee' of the passband should be close to 300 Hz.
If you are wondering
Edward and Terry,
The SSBCAPKT was released November 2004. KSB2 kits built before that
had a 2.1 khz filter.
Look at your KSB2 board. If CB and CN positions are populated, you
have the narrow 2.1 khz filter width.
Download the instructions for the SSBCAPKT
Snowy,
Make sure the switch on the Control Board is in the INT position.
If using a battery, it may have a low voltage - it must be higher than
10.5 volts.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/20/2021 11:19 AM, snowy howell via Elecraft wrote:
Hi All
Update on the K2 and its problems or now lack of them.
Snowy,
I am glad to hear that it is now working for you. It sounds like you
had a soldering problem somewhere.
A surplus of solder usually means that the lead and solder pad were not
heated sufficiently.
If you have other areas where you find excess solder, just reheat and if
necessary, wick
Pete,
When using WWV to set the K3 reference, make certain you are listening
to the carrier. WWV is an AM signal that is modulated by a 500 or 600
Hz tone on alternate minutes (440 Hz 2 minutes after the hour). That
produces tones that are both above and below the carrier.
So be certain you
Snowy,
It sounds as though you have the proper BFO crystals installed at X3 and X4.
Do check the values of C173 and C174 first
Then check L33 to make certain it is well soldered and the leads are
attached to the 1/8 watt resistor leads.
Check D37 and D38 to be certain they are oriented
Ted,
You should be using the special cable from the PC (or USB to Serial
adapter).
That cable has no RTS or DTR wires in it, so it will not work for
sending CW from N1MM. In other words, DTR and RTS are not implemented
in the K2.
Do NOT try to "fix" it by plugging the USB to serial adapter
Ken,
The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible. The original used half of
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
Need the best modifications for back lighting
Julia,
That is designed in to prevent the audio front end from being damaged by
a high audio level.
For those who have read my document on setting the audio levels, I was
careful to state that one should start with each audio level (computer
and KX3) to mid-range for a starting point and
Mike,
The K1 must tune a bit below the low end of each band. That is to
compensate for the crystals on the band board not being precision
crystals - so your K1 is behaving as normal.
You CAN tweak it by a small amount on ONE band (the 2nd band will change
too).
In your case, I would
Brian,
In later XV transverters, JP9 controls when the crystal oven is powered.
Since you do not have JP9, even if you have a crystal oven, it will
still work fine.
The oven will be powered when the XV50 is powered. Just allow some time
for it to warm up (about 20 minutes).
Actually, the
Dave,
Being a little 'tongue in cheek' the answer is -- That depends on what
you mean by "good"!
Seriously, the fact that you can turn it on and off in the menu only
means that there is a response from the KIO2 when it is communicating
with the MCU over the AUXBUS line.
I would suspect the
s, I think 2.03. I don’t have it with me, and
I’m not sure.
On Nov 18, 2021, at 5:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Bill,
What is the level of the MCU (before you changed it), and what level did you
try putting in?
And what is the serial number of your K2? Those may help to solve the problem.
73,
Bill,
In the KPA100, the normal Vss is about -25 volts, so suspect that
something may be loading that negative supply.
Pull U4 out and measure that voltage again. If it is still not negative
enough, you may have a problem in the T/R switch. Check for 90 to 150
volts on the highest voltage
an older revision of the firmware for U6. I did try before
substituting the KPA100 U4, and it didn’t address the issue.
I guess this will require more sleuthing.
On Nov 16, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Bill,
Plug the ribbon cable in and do an end to end continuity test - KPA100 U4 pin
Matt,
I Forgot to mention that to Bill. The special cable does not have to be
very long, but it must be present. Only pins 2, 3 and 5 should connect
to the RS232 connector on the USB to serial adapter. Failure to follow
this will cause several "strange happenings" with the K2. The subject
Ted,
The 9 pin connector on the KIO2 is not compatible with the signals
required by either amplifier. You will be better off using only the PA
Amp Keying from the K2.
That Amp Keying output is not standard on the K2, but I believe Dave Van
Wallaghen W8FGU is making up kits. Send an email to
to debug this further?
On Nov 5, 2021, at 3:10 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
Yes, Vss Vdd and Vcc all look like appropriate values.
On Nov 4, 2021, at 3:47 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Bill,
Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16 and about
-25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4
Mark,
Did you measure C44 and C46 through the entire range of rotation? and
what is the color of the plastic bodies?
The last I knew, they were about 20pF maximum and the bodies were red.
The others do not have a sufficiently low capacity to tune 12 meters.
Similarly for C21 and C23 which
James,
It is not likely to be a problem, but check any that are on the
bottom. If they are too high to clear the bottom cover, just bend them
over a bit. Replace the ones with the cracked bodies.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/8/2021 11:25 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:
Good morning everyone.
I have
James,
Listen to Dave, he is 'on target' with his post, and he is now the K2
'expert'. But it might be helpful if you post the PLL high and low
frequencies as well as the range test results.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/5/2021 8:27 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:
To follow up on my question about the PLL
Bill,
Make certain you have +12 volts on U4 pin 1 and +5 volts on U4 pin 16
and about -25 volts (-8 to -27 volts) on U4 pin 8.
If those are correct, replace U4 and it should work)
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/4/2021 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
About 10 days ago, I was having trouble with the
Bob,
The Elecraft mic pinout is ALMOST the same as Kenwood's
The Elecraft pin 6 carries +5 volts while for Kenwood, the +5 volts is
on pin 5.
Pin 5 for Elecraft is the Function button.
If your microphone does not require +5 volts and does not have buttons
other than PTT, then you only have
Microphone schematics and other info can be found at
https://www.qsl.net/g4wpw/date.html.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/2/2021 11:38 AM, Ken Winterling wrote:
Bob,
Can you build adapters if you have schematics?
DIY gives you lots of possibilities.
Those RF chokes are bi-lateral - they can be installed either way, just
like resistors.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/2/2021 10:18 AM, JAMES GUNNOE wrote:
Hi all,
Building a K2 kit.
Does it matter which way to install the RF chokes? I am speaking of the color
coded ones that resemble resistors.
Jerry,
Your K2 #1 DOES have AGC - it is built into ALL K2s.
There are 2 possibilities - 1) the AGC has been turned off - that is a 2
button function of PRE/ATT button and the AGC button pressed at the same
time. Normally just using the AGC button changes between FAST and SLOW.
2) The AGC
Bob,
Go to my webpage www.w3fpr.com and read the articular about setting the
transmit audio levels.
There are up to 3 sound level controls involved, 2 in the computer and
one in the K3.
If you are using the MIC input, there are 2 levels - high output mics
and low output mics. Your audio
Jim,
Two possible fixes:
1) Use PTT via CAT command - most digital applications provide for it.
2) Check that your audio levels are sufficient - for the Elecraft gear,
you should have 4 bars of ALC solid with the 5th one blinking. See the
full explanation on my website www.w3fpr.com.
73,
Eddy,
The most likely answer is that your batteries are self discharging.
NiMH batteries will do that, although there are low self discharge
batteries available that you should look into.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/4/2021 11:14 PM, Eddy - k6sdw wrote:
I have a KX3 with the KXBC3 Nimh charger
Julie,
Just follow the instructions. You will need a #1 Phillips screwdriver.
If you don't understand any procedure, ask here.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/30/2021 3:34 PM, Julia Tuttle wrote:
Hi folks,
I got jealous of the waterfall display on my girlfriend's IC-7300, so I got
myself a PX3, and
Robin,
That will not work. The KPA100 depends on internal signals from the
base K2 such as AUXBUS and several other signals to operate and control
power output. In other words, it is an amplifier dedicated to the K2
and not a general purpose amplifier.
The KXPA100 and KXAT100 would serve
Jim,
Check the BNC cable between the K3 IF Out and the P3. At the P3 end,
make sure it is connected to IF IN.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/23/2021 4:48 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft wrote:
Hope someone can help me out on this one. I just moved into a new home,
relocating my station from CA to ID.
Chet,
It sounds like you do not have sufficient audio drive.
In DATA A mode, how many ALC bars do you obtain? You must have 4 bars
solid with the 5th one flashing.
Adjust the audio levels from the computer to achieve that - I assume you
are using LINE in.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/13/2021 3:56
Bill,
Do you mean that it transmits dashes until the dit side is released?
If so, check the dash spacing on your paddles (increase the spacing) and
clean the paddle contacts.
Also increase the spring tension on the dash side.
It sounds to me that somehow the contacts of the paddles may be
Geert,
From your description of the "straight connections" and round plug, I
believe you are referring to the MH4 - the original question was about
the MH3 which has a 1/8 inch TRRS plug and resistors in the microphone
for the buttons.
The MH4 is usable with the K2 and K3, the MH3 is usable
Jerry,
It sounds like some RF from the KPA100 could be getting into the base K2.
Is your KPA100 upgraded with the latest updates, AND the new shield?
For the latest update, peek between the shield and the board - If you
see blue toroid cores at RFC1 and L16, then it is up to date - OTOH, if
Ian,
Elecraft has had a 'rash' of those incidents, but I thought they
addressed that with the mic vendor (yes, Elecraft does not stock parts
for the mic, they buy them whole from the vendor).
There was some speculation a few months ago about the cause -- and I
don't know the answer. Many
Doug,
Please read this whole post. If you have questions about any part of
it, please ask.
A Hi Cur message does not mean that the PA transistors are in danger.
All it means is that the current draw is greater than what is set in CAL
CUR.
Set CAL CUR to 3.5 for most operation, and all
Doug,
The reduced power is a consideration for the internal tuner relays, not
just for the PA transistors.
If you have the internal tuner installed, that power reduction is
automatic. For the K2/10, it is 2 watts and for the K1 it is 1.5 watts.
If you are using an external tuner, then
Paul,
You must construct the special cable that is specified in the KIO2
manual - you can make it a short one if you want.
That cable has a DE9 connector on the PC end which you can plug into a
serial port or into a USB to serial adapter - The KUSB sold by Elecraft
is a good choice -- if you
Mike,
That problem sounds a bit like the Calibration of the Reference
Oscillator is off a bit. See tha manual and use the Zero-Beating method
as instructed.
There is a chance it will help, but no harm if it does not.
If you did not get the paper manual, download it from Elecraft.
73,
Don
Mike,
Do you have the Noise Blanker turned on? That will create some
"strange" sounds in the audio.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/17/2021 5:10 PM, Mike Kholodov via Elecraft wrote:
Listening to the K3S audio had become very fatiguing for me as of late. It
sounds like hum or carrier is mixed in at
All,
I was reminded that I should have added that CW and SSB are low duty
cycle modes while FT8 and several other data modes are high duty cycle
and will produce more heat.
The 'finger test' I mentioned is suitable for any mode.
73,
Don W3FPR
Mike,
First set the AGC Threshold voltage, and then check the operation of the
RF Gain to see if you can get the CAL S LO and CAL S HI settings to fall
in line.
It is not likely that replacing the pot will fix it.
For a scratchy AF Gain control, replace the control, as well as doing
the
Aaron,
I cannot give you a specific answer, but go by the heat.
I would suggest you first try 5 watts, and operate at that level for a
while (I suggest 10 minutes).
Then check the heatsink temperature - if you can hold your fingers on it
for longer than 5 minutes, then all is well.
Increase
Carter,
Contact support for further assistance.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/13/2021 6:43 AM, Carter Craigie wrote:
My thanks to the three fine Elecrafters who sent me suggestions to fix
my KXPA100 amplifier. I tried their suggestions, but no joy.
The problem I have?
After months of fine operation in
-reflector (direct email
and take {Elecraft} out of the subject line.
The troubleshooting details are not likely of interest to the rest of
the list. You can summarize the results to the list when it is resolved.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/12/2021 1:22 PM, jerry wrote:
On 2021-08-08 09:49, Don Wilhelm
Carter,
Check/replug and check again the RJ45 plug on the back of the KXPA100.
It must be locked in place. You should hear a light click as it is
fully seated in its socket.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/12/2021 12:42 PM, Carter Craigie wrote:
My problems all started when I moved my Elecraft KX3,
at 12:16 PM, jerry <mailto:je...@tr2.com>> wrote:
All,
Can I just remove the KPA100 and test the K2 "bare" for current draw?
- Jerry KF6VB
On 2021-08-08 09:49, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Jerry,
Replace diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 wattmeter, and things s
Jerry,
Replace diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 wattmeter, and things should
settle down.
If you attempted to adjust KPA100 C1 while this condition was present,
balance the wattmeter again, it will change with good diodes installed.
The diodes are 1N5711 type.
That wattmeter is still used as
Richard,
The two horizontal bars in the SWR display indicate that the KAT3 is not
installed, go to the menu and activate it.
As for plugging in the speaker, hold the top cover in a tilted position
and route the wire under the horizontal bar in the center, then onto the
speaker plug on the
Jerry,
What is the serial number of that K2? If below SN 3000, it likely does
not have the alternate AF gain wiring.
In any case, with those symptoms, replace tha AF Gain pot.
Check to see if the KPA100 has the latest updates. The instructions for
the KPA100UPPKT will tell you.
Also check
Dick,
Download either the KRX3 or KDVR3 installation instructions. I know
both tell you how to remove the Front Panel assembly.
That will tell not only how to remove the assembly, but just removing
and re-instaling the Front Panel may wipe the pins enough to remove any
oxidation and restore
Aaron,
Unless you have done some sort of mod to that K2, you do NOT have
speaker audio at pin 6 of the mic jack.
The audio is on the Control Board and RF Board, but NOT the Front Panel
board.
The schematic of the Kenwood MC-43S microphone from G4WPW (SK) shows no
speaker function and no
Tom and all,
Elecraft still offers service on its legacy gear - KX1, K1, K2,
XVseries, so as long as repair parts are available, you can expect
service will be available for the K3/K3S in a similar manner.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/2/2021 9:26 AM, Thomas Donohue wrote:
Given the termination of
Tom,
As an experiment, try tuning the KX3 to a valid ham band like 160 meters
in AM mode, then switch to CW.
What happens?
1.000 MHz is in the middle of the AM broadcast band, so that is not a
good example. I am thinking perhaps this is built into the KX3 firmware
to prevent transmitting
Dave,
I am at a loss to tell you what is going on. The T/R switching in the
K2 is all electronic, no relays involved.
If a K2/100, break it down to just the base K2 and see if it is in the
base K2 or in the KPA100.
If you have the K2/10, remove the top cover which contains the KAT2.
If it
Doug,
The answer is "yes and no".
Set the sidetone pitch in the menu, then adjust capacitor C20 (BFO
adjust) to center the filter at 600 Hz.
You also need to adjust the Transmit Offset to match (adjust C13) - see
the manual for the procedure.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/23/2021 11:58 AM, Douglas
Dave and all,
Placing the fuse near the power supply end is the way to do it.
In the event of a short, the power wire can spew metal and start a fire.
Always fuse near the power supply. A fuse at the equipment end will
only protect the equipment, but will expose the wire from the power
supply
Here, the XYL uses cheap 80 proof Vodka to 'awake' vanilla bean seeds.
She has a bunch of vanilla beans and when soaked in alcohol for about 2
months (shaken every day), it makes vanilla extract.
She was doing commercial baking when she acquired the vanilla beans
because it was MUCH less
When I have cleaned boards with IPA or other cleaners, I apply the IPA
only in a small spot with a q-tip and then blot it with a paper towel to
help dry it - do not flood the board.
I generally do not recommend cleaning boards, solder flux is
non-conductive and will normally not cause a
And discard those "Amazon Special" PL-259s. Use only quality
connectors. It is not worth it to use off-spec connectors - you are
witness to the pain and heartache they can cause.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 7/11/2021 4:52 PM, Dave wrote:
If it were me, I'd replace the SO-239 on the tuner... That way,
Have any of you with key chasing problems tried putting the key on a
piece of a mouse pad? Don't be afraid to cut it, it is an inexpensive
solution (sometimes free).
I use a key with a very heavy base (Tony Baleno key) and do not have a
problem even though I am a 'slap paddles' type.
Try the
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