Hi.
I'm not sure how perfect the wound inductors need to be when
assembling the K1 filter board.
Here's mine:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2mjyTRatLHGNXZwVFZXc0FISFU
Do these look good enough? I did L9 first, and I feel like L10 is
better. Also, I did not notice at the time that L9 is
Hi.
Would someone please post pictures of the items
E72 - Thermal insulator
and
E100108 - Acylic bezel
I am having trouble locating and identifying them as I unpack my
new K1 kit contents.
Thanks.
--
Mark
__
I found the parts. They were both in an envelope labeled "E850040 -
Serial Number kit, K1".
On Sat, Jan 30, 2016 at 3:49 PM, Mark Petrovic <mspetro...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi.
>
> Would someone please post pictures of the items
>
> E72 - Thermal
lower voltage drop across D16, replace it with a 95SQ015
> which is available from Elecraft as p/n E560009 (it is used in the K2 as the
> series reverse voltage protection diode.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 2/27/2016 2:32 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>> I'm performing
I'm performing the DC voltage checks (page 30 of the instructions), which occur
immediately after installing the power switch on the RF board.
P1 pin 16 is supposed to be supply minus 300mV, but I get 600mV. Is this a
cause for concern?
Hi. I am preparing to build the Elecraft K1, and am seeking a
recommendation for a temperature controlled soldering station
mentioned in the K1 assembly guide.
Any suggestions?
Thank you.
--
Mark
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in. I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at
As I inventoried my K1 parts, I cannot find mention in the RF Bag part
list of the extra hardware in the attached photo. I don't see
anything in the errata about these parts. What are they used for?
I also find that the K1 relay listed on page 3 of the RF Bag parts
list is not actually in the
flush cutting the boards, put something on the back of the
> encoder board - fish paper would be best, but a piece of flat plastic cut
> from one of the many plastic wrapped consumer products would be good.
> Paper or electrical tape will eventually puncture.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
&g
While performing the initial power on tests on my K2 S/N 7809, I noticed
that the VFO knob/display tuning test produced a sluggish, intermittent, or
no change in display when I turned the knob in either direction.
I proceeded to remove the two chassis screws securing the control board to
the
I ran across this clever means of holding the 8 3/4" leads in place during
soldering that others may benefit from:
https://2e0dfu.files.wordpress.com/2016/09/20160921_090901.jpg
It allows super-clean, low profile pads on the backside of the board
leads one at a time, then troubleshoot
> the board.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/10/2018 7:15 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
> > Thanks, Don.
> >
> > Would you mind outlining the approach for analyzing the front panel
> switch matrix?
> >
> >
> >
>
.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 6/10/2018 3:37 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>
>> I am performing the first alignment and test of the RF board of my K2 S/N
>> 7809. On page 66 of the manual, I'm instructed to read page 91 of the
>> operating instructions to get famili
ve the leads one at a time, then troubleshoot the board.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 6/10/2018 7:15 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Don.
>>
>> Would you mind outlining the approach for analyzing the front panel
>> switch matrix?
>>
>>
1 location, and look for the dot at the end of
> the R-Pak - they must be aligned.
>
> You could also have a solder splash somewhere on the FP board.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 6/10/2018 5:31 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>
>> Don, thanks.
>>
>> When I exit
toggle the bar when in CW
> mode. In SSB mode, it should toggle between LSB and USB.
> If it works in SSB mode, but not in CW, you may have a display fault that
> is not showing the bar - that is a different problem.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 6/10/2018 4:44 PM, Mark Petr
ripped the threads on the inside of the inductor core and not
> the slug. So just bite the bullet and replace the inductor.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/17/2018 11:41 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>> While performing the IF alignment on my K2 s/n 7809, I must have backed the
&g
While performing the IF alignment on my K2 s/n 7809, I must have backed the
slug on L34 too far up against the can. Now the slug doesn't move when I
turn it one way or the other (at some point I was able to advance it
downward to the 1/2 way point). Is there any way to re-index the slug onto
its
I am performing the first alignment and test of the RF board of my K2 S/N
7809. On page 66 of the manual, I'm instructed to read page 91 of the
operating instructions to get familiar with the CAL FIL settings. Page 91
says to work through the CAL FIL examples on page 93, wherein we work
through
en see if the behavior settles down.
> If it does not, you will have to find the problem in the Front Panel switch
> matrix (not an easy task).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>> On 6/10/2018 6:44 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>> Don, the soldering on RP1 is very clean, top (v
Does anyone have a hi-res photo of what C22 (3.3pF) for the K2 (s/n 7809)
looks like? My inventory says I have it, but now I'm not so sure - or, I
cannot identify it again.
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home:
; are indeed C22
for the RF board?
Many thanks.
On Tue, Jun 19, 2018 at 7:42 AM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Mark,
>
> I do not have a photo, but it is either a disc ceramic capacitor marked
> with "3.3", or it is a monolythic capacitor which may be marked either
> '3.3' or '339'.
The K2 RF board assembly instructions say to install P5 *with the vertical
locking ramp toward S1*. I don't know how to interpret this. Does this
mean when P5 is installed, the pins are closer to S1 than the locking ramp
is? Or the other way around?
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
Hi. I suspect this is obvious to most readers, but to use a long wire
antenna with the K2 with the KAT2 option, one connects the antenna to the
ANT1 center conductor, and the counterpoises to the GND terminal?
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
I'm installing the KBT2 internal battery option on my K2 s/n 7809.
In what position should the K2 rear panel "Int. Battery" switch be for the
Connecting and Testing of the KBT2, On or Off? I'm assuming, On, but
wanted to double check.
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
sting/operation (also for charging the battery). If you are using the
> power supply for charging the internal battery, increase the power
> supply to at least 14.1 volts (14.3 volts is better).
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 8/1/2018 12:05 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
> > I'm i
binding
> post adapter and connect the counterpoise to the black binding post - no
> dependency on conductivity through the enclosure.
> The BNC jack shells do not have a dependable low resistance path to the
> GND post.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/27/2018
Found the answer to my question:
https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg30186.html
On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 11:03 AM Mark Petrovic wrote:
> Oh, I see. Thanks, Don.
>
> The GND is used for earth-grounding the radio?
>
> On Fri, Jul 27, 2018 at 11:02 AM Don W
At long last, K2 S/N 7809 is built.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/CjwFL9XagixsYHmZ8
Many thanks for all the positive feedback I got here, the many questions
that were answered, and to Elecraft for an amazing kit. And, of course, to
Don W3FPR for providing unwavering expert guidance when I needed
metal from the inside of the hole.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/19/2018 11:00 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
> > In the top cover for my K2 S/N/ 7809, the external speaker hole is way
> too
> > small for the jack to pass through. Is it the design intent of the K2
> that
&
I'm in the home stretch of building my K2, and wanted to point out
something that might help others as they assemble the transmitter portion
of the radio.
C135 ("103"), which sits adjacent to the 2D heat sink fastener, needs to be
installed as close to the board as possible. Check that it is
I have a couple days of available bench time this week before I go on
vacation. I want to take my new K2 S/N 7809 with me, but use the time
between now and then to begin installation of the KSB2 SSB option. I want
to stop at a point (if there is one) where CW transmit and receive still
function.
In the top cover for my K2 S/N/ 7809, the external speaker hole is way too
small for the jack to pass through. Is it the design intent of the K2 that
this jack be screwed in? Or should it pass through without forcing it? Or
does it matter?
Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT
--
Mark
I am installing the KSB2 SSB Adapter into my K2 S/N 7809. I have the
Elecraft MH4 microphone, which includes 8 jumpers and one 5.6K resistor.
My KSB2 manual shows the configuration for the Elecraft MH2 and MD2, and
I've read in the MH4 PDF manual that it has the same configuration as the
MH2.
Hi.
My K2 SSB option inventory correctly has the part number E850006 qty. 7
4.9MHz crystal filters, but the envelope containing the filters has no
calibration value recorded on the outside. Is there an easy way to
determine what this value should be?
Thanks.
--
Mark
AE6RT
for the initial filter alignment.
> That can be refined later. if you use an audio spectrum analyzer and a
> broadband noise generator to properly position the filter passband.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 4/6/2018 10:13 PM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>
>> Hi.
>>
Hi. As I approach the final steps pertaining to toroids and chokes in
assembling the SSB option for the K2, I am reading older messages in the
mail archives about RFC1 and/or RFC2 shorting to the adjacent crystal
cans. The manual doesn't say, but are RFC1/RFC2 to be installed
vertically? The
While reading through my new K2 kit's control board assembly instructions,
I see that some builders prefer to trim the resistor and capacitor leads
before soldering. I'm intrigued by this, and wonder if someone who uses
this technique can share their experiences. Do you the solder the component
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