Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Just for info to all. I ordered the retention clip from Powerwerx and it fits 
very well. The connection to my K3  is now secure. 

Ramon

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 10:41 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> I need to point out that those retention clips will work fine when you are 
> connecting two APP in-line connectors together, however, they cannot be 
> fitted to the K3/K3S APP connector because the "retainer pin" hole is not 
> accessible at the K3/K3S end.  They are fine for connecting one APP cable to 
> another, but in practice, I have not found them necessary.
> Properly assembled APP connectors will have a significant pullout force 
> requirement.  Pay attention to those who state they can move the K3 by 
> pulling on the cable - those folks have properly assembled APP connectors.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> If yours cannot do that, investigate the construction of your APP connectors.
> 
>> On 9/13/2016 10:01 PM, Dan Violette wrote:
>> And there are retention clips.  I have a couple black ones that came with
>> some order at one time (RigRunner I think).
>> 
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Jerry]

I fly RC helicopters and use Power Poles on all of my connections. My motor 
draws 75A with spikes over 100A. The model experiences broad frequency 
vibration, direct exposure to heat, cold, and moisture. I've never had a 
failure of a connection, an inadvertent disconnection, or wore one out.

Now to be fair I buy Anderson brand and use their crimper. 

If you are having issues with pp then my first question is where you obtained 
them and how are you attaching.

The only odd thing I do is coat them with Vaseline ( which I'm told is bad). 
After almost 10 years I figure I'm due for a failure or such.

Jer

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 14, 2016, at 9:40 AM, Clay Autery <caut...@montac.com> wrote:
> 
> I alluded to those clips when I said, "And there are ways/devices to
> make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> It was my intention to clarify that statement with a link to the
> clips...  Apologize.  I was on vacation and become distracted and hit
> "Send" too early.  :-)
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
>> On 9/13/2016 5:48 PM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>> Hello all:
>> 
>> David, K6SBA, most graciously shared the solution with me. Powerwerx (see 
>> their website) sells a plastic clip that ties the mating connectors 
>> together, preventing them from slipping apart and disconnecting. The clip 
>> can be easily removed if needed. I just ordered a few of the clips for my 
>> installation. Now, that’ a solution! Thank you again David! You made my 
>> day!
>> 
>> Ramon, NQ9V
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sep 13, 2016, at 6:08 PM, George Kidder <gkid...@ilstu.edu> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done 
>>> right - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.
>>> 
>>> W3HBM
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>>> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
>>>> crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by 
>>>> Wayne.
>>>> 
>>>> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part 
>>>> you might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals 
>>>> correctly so they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be 
>>>> sure you do not get solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like 
>>>> to hold the wires vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from 
>>>> flowing onto the contact area.
>>>> 
>>>> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP 
>>>> connectors -- all but a very few are soldered.
>>>> 
>>>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>>> 
>>>> -Original Message-
>>>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of 
>>>> John Pitz
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
>>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>>>> 
>>>> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I 
>>>> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty 
>>>> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success 
>>>> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I 
>>>> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
>>>> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to 
>>>> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do 
>>>> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to 
>>>> push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip 
>>>> cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something 
>>>> really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is 
>>>> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>>>> 
>>>> KD8CIV
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>>>>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>>>>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the 

Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Clay Autery]

I alluded to those clips when I said, "And there are ways/devices to
make PP connections "more secure".

It was my intention to clarify that statement with a link to the
clips...  Apologize.  I was on vacation and become distracted and hit
"Send" too early.  :-)

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 5:48 PM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> Hello all:
>
> David, K6SBA, most graciously shared the solution with me. Powerwerx (see 
> their website) sells a plastic clip that ties the mating connectors together, 
> preventing them from slipping apart and disconnecting. The clip can be easily 
> removed if needed. I just ordered a few of the clips for my installation. 
> Now, that’ a solution! Thank you again David! You made my day!
>
> Ramon, NQ9V
>
>
>> On Sep 13, 2016, at 6:08 PM, George Kidder <gkid...@ilstu.edu> wrote:
>>
>> Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done right 
>> - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.
>>
>> W3HBM
>>
>>
>> On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>>> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
>>> crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by 
>>> Wayne.
>>>
>>> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you 
>>> might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so 
>>> they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not 
>>> get solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires 
>>> vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact 
>>> area.
>>>
>>> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors 
>>> -- all but a very few are soldered.
>>>
>>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>>>
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John 
>>> Pitz
>>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>>>
>>> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
>>> correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to 
>>> the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 
>>> zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off 
>>> and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
>>> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract 
>>> the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to 
>>> get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the 
>>> housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers? 
>>>  Is there better cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of 
>>> my operation is portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, 
>>> unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>>>
>>> KD8CIV
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>>>
>>>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>>>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>>>
>>>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>>>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>>>
>>>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>>>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>>>
>>>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>>>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>>>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>>>
>>>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>>>
>>>> __
>>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>>> (318) 518-1389
>>>>
>>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a 
>>>>> marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power 
>>>>> supply. Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure 
>>>>> and strong connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so 
>>>>> easy for the connection to c

Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[pa0kv]

Power pole connectors are okay but they do break!

When you use the K3's Tilt Stand the power cable will lean on the desk surface.
If you for any reason lift the K3 at the front any higher the sideways pressure 
on the Power pole
connector can break its housing and the spring in the connector is loosing its 
tension.
You have to look closely to see the crack.
It happened to me. I replaced the housing and the connection was tight again.
So if you have a loosely fitting connector.. check for cracks in the housing!

73's Twan - PAØKV

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

I see the recurring APP thread has once again raised its head and has again 
been beaten to death..  :-) 

Let's end the thread at this time, due to the very large number of posts on 
this topic, and the fact that exactly the same info is available in the 
archives from multiple past threads.

Must be a slow dx day!

73,
Eric
Moderator etc.
elecraft.com
_..._

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 8:13 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> Sure. I buy black and white lengths of #10 stranded THHN (ordinary house 
> wire) at the big box store, cut a length of each, put one end of both in a 
> bench vise, the other in a drill, and twist it.  Then let it sit overnight to 
> let it set in position (it will untwist some, but not enough to matter if 
> you've twisted it a lot.)
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Jim Brown]

Sure. I buy black and white lengths of #10 stranded THHN (ordinary house 
wire) at the big box store, cut a length of each, put one end of both in 
a bench vise, the other in a drill, and twist it.  Then let it sit 
overnight to let it set in position (it will untwist some, but not 
enough to matter if you've twisted it a lot.)


73, Jim K9YC

 On Tue,9/13/2016 5:10 PM, John Pitz wrote:
I don't suppose you have a suggestion as to where I could buy flexible 
#10 wire?  The reason I chose the zip cord is because of it's flexibility.



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Don Wilhelm]

I need to point out that those retention clips will work fine when you 
are connecting two APP in-line connectors together, however, they cannot 
be fitted to the K3/K3S APP connector because the "retainer pin" hole is 
not accessible at the K3/K3S end.  They are fine for connecting one APP 
cable to another, but in practice, I have not found them necessary.
Properly assembled APP connectors will have a significant pullout force 
requirement.  Pay attention to those who state they can move the K3 by 
pulling on the cable - those folks have properly assembled APP connectors.


73,
Don W3FPR

If yours cannot do that, investigate the construction of your APP 
connectors.


On 9/13/2016 10:01 PM, Dan Violette wrote:

And there are retention clips.  I have a couple black ones that came with
some order at one time (RigRunner I think).



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Dan Violette]

And there are retention clips.  I have a couple black ones that came with
some order at one time (RigRunner I think).

https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-connector-retention-clip

Dan KI6X

--

Message: 4
Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2016 08:53:53 -0400
From: Ramon Tristani 
To: Elecraft Mailing List 
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal,
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody
out there ?invented? or ?discovered? a more secure and strong connection
than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection
to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps
needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight
connections when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with
suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ram?n E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Al Samson]

There is a connect for ten gage wire. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 13, 2016, at 11:49 AM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
> 
> KD8CIV
> 
> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>> 
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>> 
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>> 
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>> 
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
>>> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
>>> anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
>>> connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
>>> connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
>>> the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
>>> strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
>>> Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
>>> Thank you all.
>>> 
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> r.trist...@gmail.com 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
>>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Hello all:

David, K6SBA, most graciously shared the solution with me. Powerwerx (see their 
website) sells a plastic clip that ties the mating connectors together, 
preventing them from slipping apart and disconnecting. The clip can be easily 
removed if needed. I just ordered a few of the clips for my installation. Now, 
that’ a solution! Thank you again David! You made my day!

Ramon, NQ9V


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 6:08 PM, George Kidder <gkid...@ilstu.edu> wrote:
> 
> Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done right - 
> as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.
> 
> W3HBM
> 
> 
> On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
>> crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.
>> 
>> I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you 
>> might crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so 
>> they slide right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get 
>> solder on the terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires 
>> vertically with a vice to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact 
>> area.
>> 
>> I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
>> all but a very few are soldered.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John 
>> Pitz
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles
>> 
>> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
>> correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
>> one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
>> cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and 
>> on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
>> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract 
>> the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to 
>> get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the 
>> housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  
>> Is there better cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of 
>> my operation is portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, 
>> coiled, uncoiled, etc.
>> 
>> KD8CIV
>> 
>> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>>> 
>>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>>> 
>>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>>> 
>>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>>> 
>>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>>> MONTAC Enterprises
>>> (318) 518-1389
>>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a 
>>>> marginal, non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. 
>>>> Has anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
>>>> connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
>>>> connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
>>>> the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
>>>> strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
>>>> Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
>>>> Thank you all.
>>>> 
>>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>>> r.trist...@gmail.com <mailto:r.trist...@gmail.com>
>>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/
>>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
>>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
>>>> <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
>>> __

Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Jim Brown]

I've done a lot of these. The simple solution is to strip enough of the 
insulation so that the completed pin fits into the housing.


Also -- "zip cord" is a lousy choice for use in a ham station. Twisted 
pair is FAR better, because it inherently resists RF coupling.


73, Jim K9YC

On Tue,9/13/2016 2:03 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues 
trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx. Not a fault of the wire 
but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great from 
them - just wish shipping was cheaper. 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[George Kidder]

Completely agree!  Soldering is effective, cheap and reliable if done 
right - as is crimping, bar the cost of the tool.


W3HBM


On 9/13/2016 5:07 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne.

I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might 
crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide 
right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the 
terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice 
to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area.

I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
all but a very few are soldered.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Pitz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and on 
for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the 
pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to get the 
pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing.  Is 
there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better 
cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of my operation is 
portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, 
etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:


I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
pretty much a cabling/connector freak.

I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
becoming more common/standard as time passes.

Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.

If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.

And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I 
would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com <mailto:r.trist...@gmail.com>
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/
<https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/
<https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

FWIW, rather than invest in crimpers and practice as needed to get great 
crimps, I simply solder the wires into the terminals as recommended by Wayne. 

I place the terminals over the bare ends and solder, filling the part you might 
crimp with solder. It's useful to align the terminals correctly so they slide 
right into the PP housing when done. Also, be sure you do not get solder on the 
terminal contacts. Some builders like to hold the wires vertically with a vice 
to prevent soldering from flowing onto the contact area. 

I've had no problems over the past 12 years or so using the PP connectors -- 
all but a very few are soldered. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John Pitz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I remember 
correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty similar to the 
one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success crimping the #10 zip 
cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I have used these off and on 
for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to extract the 
pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do manage to get the 
pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to push into the housing.  Is 
there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better 
cable to use, ideally something really flexible?  A lot of my operation is 
portable so this stuff is always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, 
etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am 
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
> 
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and 
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
> 
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole 
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
> 
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never 
> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to 
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
> 
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> > non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
> > anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
> > connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
> > connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
> > the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
> > strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
> > Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
> > Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > r.trist...@gmail.com <mailto:r.trist...@gmail.com> 
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> > <https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/>
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> > <https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/>
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Edward R Cole]

Not going to get into pro-cons of PP but I have encountered issues 
trying to use No.10 zip cord from Powerwerx.  Not a fault of the wire 
but insulation size is too big for many connectors. Wire is great 
from them - just wish shipping was cheaper.


So I ended up using a short piece of No. 12 installed in the 
connector and splicing the No.12 to the No.10 wire.  You can use 
yellow butt splices which crimp or do as I prefer, which is doing a 
soldered lap junction covered with heat shrink.


Voltage drop in a couple inches of the smaller gauge wire is 
insignificant (probably unmeasurable) but make life easier when 
assembling high-current power cords.


BTW the old four pin mic connector remains my power connector of 
choice.  The are cheap and do not separate as they have threaded 
collar.  Use male pins in the panel receptacle and female pins in the 
plug.  I found a source of them from MCM Electronics.  That is what I 
installed as Power/PTT connector on my 2M80 2m linear amps.  Supplied 
with 4-foot of No.10 red/black zip to reduce voltage drop when drawing 15 amps.


My fancy-dancy plastic power connector failed on my DEMI transverter 
so I installed a 4-pin mic jack and plug.  Unit is working great, 
again.  Original socket melted under current load for the 50w 
transverter.  DEMI now uses something different with no issues seen 
by me with those.  The units using the black connector dated from 2010-11.


73, Ed - KL7UW


From: John Pitz <crustac...@brig-elec.com>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?
=snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I believe the "click" Detrick refers to is when you insert the contacts into
the connector housing. There's a nice document on-line showing the proper
way to assemble them if you are "rolling your own" or need to check what you
have. Notice the cutaway view on page 3. It shows the spring contact in the
proper position in the housing. When inserting it in the housing you'll hear
a "click" as the spring drops into place to hold the contact. Looking at the
end of the assembled connector, you should see the contact in place covering
the spring. If it isn't in that position, the contact will slide back
reducing the surface area (and so increasing the heating and voltage drop)
until it fails to make contact at all. Also, those connectors come apart
with little or no force. 

http://www.arrl.org/files/file/Public%20Service/TrainingModules/Technical/An
derson%20powerpole.pdf


I did a quick pull test on a sample of 1 (Elecraft assembled) power cord and
my K3 rear panel pp connector using a spring gage. It requires about 4 lb
(roughly 1.8 kg) to of pull straight back on the connector to separate them.
This is a power cord and K3 that have seen lots of use. It's tight enough I
can slide the K3/100 around on the desk top by the cable if I don't jerk on
it. 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bill
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 12:59 PM
To: 'Detrick Merz'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

If there isn't a solid click which putting the wire connectors into the
holder, the mating plugs won't stay together, at least in my experience.
Also, soldering can interfere with proper mating to the shell and both
connectors as well.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Detrick Merz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power cords),
but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors to stay
stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid for some
people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp <kengk...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power 
> cable and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Bill]

If there isn't a solid click which putting the wire connectors into the
holder, the mating plugs won't stay together, at least in my experience.
Also, soldering can interfere with proper mating to the shell and both
connectors as well.

Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Detrick Merz
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:29 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power cords),
but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors to stay
stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid for some
people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp <kengk...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power 
> cable and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Nr4c]

You must place the terminal into the guide with the flaps up. I use tweezers to 
rotate it a few degrees clockwise so that the upper dies will not catch the 
left flap as it closes. Now insert the stripped wire till it stops and crimp.  
Should work every time. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 12:49 PM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
> On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
> remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
> similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
> crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
> have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
> With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
> extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
> manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
> push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
> cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
> really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
> always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.
> 
> KD8CIV
> 
> 
>> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:
>> 
>> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
>> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
>> 
>> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
>> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
>> 
>> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
>> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
>> 
>> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
>> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
>> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
>> 
>> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
>> 
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>> 
>>> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
>>> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
>>> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
>>> anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
>>> connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
>>> connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
>>> the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
>>> strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
>>> Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
>>> Thank you all.
>>> 
>>> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
>>> r.trist...@gmail.com 
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
>>> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
>>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[John Pitz]

On the topic of Power Pole connectors,  I have a crimper that if I
remember correctly I bought from West Mountain Radio.  It looks pretty
similar to the one sold by Powerwerx.  I have had very little success
crimping the #10 zip cord sold by Powerwerx.  Am I missing something?  I
have used these off and on for a few years to crimp smaller gauge wire.
With the 10 wire the crimp looks terrible, and it is very hard to
extract the pin from the crimper without destroying the pin.  If you do
manage to get the pin out of the crimpers it is almost impossible to
push into the housing.  Is there something wrong with Powerwerx's zip
cord?  my crimpers?  Is there better cable to use, ideally something
really flexible?  A lot of my operation is portable so this stuff is
always getting plugged, unplugged, coiled, uncoiled, etc.

KD8CIV


On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 08:11 -0500, Clay Autery wrote:

> I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
> pretty much a cabling/connector freak.
> 
> I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
> becoming more common/standard as time passes.
> 
> Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
> does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.
> 
> If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
> have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
> satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.
> 
> And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".
> 
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> MONTAC Enterprises
> (318) 518-1389
> 
> On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> > The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> > non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has 
> > anybody out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong 
> > connection than the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the 
> > connection to come loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct 
> > the 20 amps needed for the radio to operate at full power. I believe in 
> > strong and tight connections when relatively high current is expected. 
> > Anybody out there with suggestions? I would appreciate knowing from you. 
> > Thank you all.
> >
> > Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> > r.trist...@gmail.com 
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> > https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> > 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[dmoes]

‎Everyone has their ways.  Here is my two cents. Everything 12V in my shack 
including lighting is APP

NEVER SOLDER. To many possible issues including that the solder flows so well 
on those pins its almost impossible to keep it off the contact surface. Also 
the wire break off easier 

Second. For years I used a crimp tool I had. Not really purpose made but seemed 
OK and folded in the split the way it is intended and had good luck. A few 
months back when I was doing some changes I borrowed someone's fancy ratcheting 
Andy crimp tool made for APP. Wow. What a difference. the crimps where way 
better and easy to get them right.  ‎ I since bought my own. It was worth it.  

To keep the black and red body sets together I don't pin. But touch one spot on 
the joint with a solder iron melting a small bit of the plastic and bonding 
them together.  ‎ I have never needed to do anything to keep mated connector 
pairs together.  

The current capacity in my experience is at least if not better than 
advertised.    I have never had any sign of heating even when running many 
things at the same time including lights rigs and accessories al through APPs 
even at the power supply. (single set there too)

  Original Message  
From: Ramon Tristani
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 8:53 AM
To: Elecraft Mailing List
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? I 
would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.

Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

I was able to remove both power pole connectors from the power supply cable. 
Added more tension to the “tongue”, lifted the spring a little bit and the 
connectors “clicked” as before. They are a bit more secure now, not as strong 
as a solid power connector like the old Kenwood or Icoms ( I say “old” because 
I have not seen the new ones for years, being Elecraft-only) but the voltage on 
the K3 holds steady during the transmit cycle, meaning (to me) that the 
connection is good enough. I still cannot pull the radio around from the power 
supply cable, not that I want to anyway. So, thank you all for the 
recommendations and help. I have always counted on Elecraft and this mail list 
and always found the needed assistance and guidance. It is good to be part of 
the “family”.

73,
Ramon, NQ9V


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 10:34, Dave Cole  wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
>> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
>> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
>> housings in a pair.
> 
> As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
> use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin.  It fits perfectly, and you can
> remove it easily as well.  
> 
> I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
> ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes.  Then much
> like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess.  Keeps the
> connectors together, and is removable later.
> 
> I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
> radius bend point.
> 
> -- 
> 73's, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> For software/hardware reviews see:
> http://www.nk7z.net
> 
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https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Dave Cole]

On Tue, 2016-09-13 at 09:29 -0400, Detrick Merz wrote:
> For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've
> soldered a few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue,
> or anything other than the natural friction to hold the black/red
> housings in a pair.

As a totally off topic comment, you can save yourself a few cents if you
use the stick on a Q-Tip for a roll pin.  It fits perfectly, and you can
remove it easily as well.  

I keep a few Q-Tips in my Power Pole box, and just cut off the cotton
ends, and then push the stick in, where the roll pin goes.  Then much
like a coax connector center pin, I cut off the excess.  Keeps the
connectors together, and is removable later.

I also never solder my power poles, for fear of creating a really small
radius bend point.

-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
For software/hardware reviews see:
http://www.nk7z.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Bob Novas]

I have assembled power poles incorrectly and noticed that they didn't "stick".  
However, when I assemble them correctly, they stick great and like Ken and 
Detrick said, I can drag my K3S around by the power cord.  You have to be 
really careful to assemble them with the correct orientation of the metal 
insert to the plastic case. I crimp the metal insert to the wire - this results 
in a good gas-tight seal with no excess. The insert has to go all the way into 
the housing.  Again, if you assemble them correctly, they work great. If you 
don't assemble them properly, they do not work well at all.  Bob - W3DK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Don:

Thanks. I will inspect the connector carefully and if necessary I will replace 
it. Thanks to all for the good advice.

Ramon


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:41, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they have 
> not been properly assembled.
> If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well as the 
> contact blade, it has not been properly assembled.  Give the contact blade a 
> push from the wire side until the contact blade locks over the spring finger.
> If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing it 
> from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut off the 
> solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:
>> I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
>> cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
>> to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
>> for some people, and so unreliable for others.
>> 
>> 
> 
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https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Don Wilhelm]

One of the reasons some have trouble with APP connectors is that they 
have not been properly assembled.
If you look at the end of an APP and can see the spring finger as well 
as the contact blade, it has not been properly assembled.  Give the 
contact blade a push from the wire side until the contact blade locks 
over the spring finger.
If it will not lock, there may be solder on the contact blade preventing 
it from being fully inserted - remove the contact blade and either cut 
off the solder with a sharp knife or replace the contact blade.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/13/2016 9:29 AM, Detrick Merz wrote:

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ramon Tristani]

Ken:

Maybe there is. When my K3 arrived more than 5 years ago, it was my first 
experience with Power Poles. I actually soldered the connections inside, yet it 
is so easy to pull them and separate them from the radio that scares me always 
thinking that the connection is not solid. Tell me, how do you manage to pull 
the cable, radio and all, without disconnecting the power poles? Please share.

Ramon


> On Sep 13, 2016, at 09:20, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
> 
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
> 
> 73
> 
> Ken - K0PP
> 

Ramón E. Tristani Sr.
r.trist...@gmail.com 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Detrick Merz]

I have the same experience as Ken (dragging gear around by the power
cords), but I know of others who seem to have trouble getting PP connectors
to stay stuck. It would be interesting to find out why they seem so solid
for some people, and so unreliable for others.

For reference, I tend to crimp my PP connectors (although I've soldered a
few, too), and I never bother with roll pins, super glue, or anything other
than the natural friction to hold the black/red housings in a pair, or
anything other than friction to keep them plugged in. I plug them in
end-to-end as well as into a homebrew PP distribution block. Sometimes
they're near impossible to get out of the distribution block!

-detrick
KI4STU

On Tue, Sep 13, 2016 at 9:20 AM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:

> Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?
>
> Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
> and have never been an issue.
>
> 73
>
> Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Ken G Kopp]

Perhaps something is wrong in the assembly of your Power Poles?

Mine are secure enough to pull the K3 across the desk using the power cable
and have never been an issue.

73

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Power Poles

[Clay Autery]

I find the Power pole connectors perfectly serviceable...  And I am
pretty much a cabling/connector freak.

I like Power Poles because they are serviceable, configurable, and
becoming more common/standard as time passes.

Would I prefer a CPC or other connector?  Perhaps, but the Power Pole
does the job and at a manufacturing price point that makes sense.

If you do your cabling and cable routing correctly, you should never
have a problem.  The connectors are rated to carry enough power to
satisfy the K3s' needs AT FULL POWER.

And there are ways/devices to make PP connections "more secure".

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 9/13/2016 7:53 AM, Ramon Tristani wrote:
> The Power Pole connectors on the back of my K3 provide for only a marginal, 
> non-secure connection to the cable coming from the power supply. Has anybody 
> out there “invented” or “discovered” a more secure and strong connection than 
> the one provided by the Power Poles? It is so easy for the connection to come 
> loose that makes me wonder how can they safely conduct the 20 amps needed for 
> the radio to operate at full power. I believe in strong and tight connections 
> when relatively high current is expected. Anybody out there with suggestions? 
> I would appreciate knowing from you. Thank you all.
>
> Ramón E. Tristani Sr., NQ9V
> r.trist...@gmail.com 
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/nq9v/ 
> https://tristaniministries.wordpress.com/ 
> 

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