[Emc-users] Need help with X200 VFD modbus

2016-02-28 Thread Danny Miller
I have an X200 VFD (a predecessor to the WJ200) I commanded with Modbus 
under Mach3, but am moving this to LinuxCNC.  Same PC.  So the 
hardware's fine.  It's starting from a motherboard RS232 port that we've 
used for other things under Linux (and has an RS485 converter).  VFD is 
programmed to respond to Modbus and has the proper number of motor poles 
and all that.

I found the WJ200 VFD code, and they're both Hitachi, and use the same 
Modbus commands.  Same basic control regs.  AFAIK the code should work.

I don't know what all I need to do here.  I just need to have Sxxx set 
the RPM, M3 makes it go, M0 makes it stop initially, but I will need 
some feedback (under the Mach3 setup, if the VFD overloaded and shut 
down or even if its breaker was off, nothing told Mach3).  I'd like to 
have a display show actual RPM (as it ramps up/down) and VFD current but 
that's very far from "essential".

I found the WJ200 man page, but I don't know what all I need to do. 
Google found me snippets of .hal code I put into my .hal.  I added 
something that I think should change the baud rate, my VFD is set to 19200.

loadusr -W wj200_vfd baud 19200
#default slave address is 1
setp wj200-vfd.0.mbslaveaddr 1
setp wj200-vfd.0.commanded-frequency 60
# connect to wj200-vfd pins
net spindle-on wj200-vfd.0.run
net spindle-cw wj200-vfd.0.reverse
net spindle-at-speed wj200-vfd.0.is-at-speed

No error messages, but M3 has no effect.  Well, I would expect more 
needs to be done, that's the extent of what I know to do.  I don't know 
what else to look up.  Surely needs something on the .ini  file but I 
can't just randomly mash the keyboard, I'll get the script for Hamlet 
before a working LinuxCNC config.  Could I get a little help here?

Danny







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[Emc-users] A whatsit probe

2016-02-28 Thread Dave Caroline
Last year while looking and researching into CMM probes I came across
an interesting probe that was not that well described.
picture :-
http://www.collection.archivist.info/archive/mirror/probe/scanning_probe.JPG
Internals
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchv4page=1=lvdt+probe

it has flat spring hinges and LVDT sensors and measures the
deflection, no contacts
the springs have dampening foam stuck to them

Ebay seller had it as Renishaw/Zeiss

Separately I got some stylii for it
http://www.collection.archivist.info/searchv13.php?searchstr=stylus+probe

the extensions to the right are correct for this probe

No makers name or model on the outside
numbers inside 1444   0,25

It has limit switches if deflected too far.

I wonder if anyone know the actual maker and model so I can hunt a bit
more for information

Dave Caroline

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Re: [Emc-users] Stake in ball screw Cincinnati Arrow

2016-02-28 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 2/27/2016 8:04 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> The nut and screw are matched to each other and then they fit the nut to
> the screw with the proper sized balls.
> Usually they are purchased together as a set and you really don't want
> to take them apart unless it is necessary.
> You can have screws reground - I think that Thompson and Nook others do
> that in the US.
> I suspect that if you have a "standard" screw you might be able to fit a
> new nut to it, but then if the nut is shot, generally the screw also
> needs help.
> So what usually needs to be done is that the nut and screw need to be
> reconditioned as a set.
> I worked on a machine that had a bad screw and they got a quote from
> Thompson or Nook to have the screw and nut reconditioned and I think it
> was about half what a new
> set would have cost.

Some of them have every other ball slightly smaller as a spacer to 
reduce turning friction. Unfortunately that also cuts load capacity. 
What some rebuilders do is replace all the balls with ones of the full 
size, or if the screw has to be ground more than usual they'll install 
larger than original balls.

If you have a screw with even wear along its length and a willingness to 
experiment, and precise way to measure ball diameter, you can buy new 
balls on eBay real cheap. Choose some just a smidge larger than what was 
in it and see if the screw tightens up, without binding.

There's probably some formula to select the ball size required based on 
measuring backlash etc, but the balls are cheap enough to buy more than 
one size.

What I'd like to see is a precision and accuracy test of a new ground 
ball screw VS a high grade rolled ball screw VS a rebuilt with full 
grind rolled ball screw.


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