Regarding plastic connectors, neutriks work well really well. And are
dead simple to connect.
But they arent as cheap as the aluminium cast ones with brass connectors.
And i have had plastic neutrik connectors that basicly melted when
exposed to coolant and Dexron 3 oil (as i use for lubricant
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 11:52:04 AM Andreas Pettersson wrote:
Regarding plastic connectors, neutriks work well really well. And are
dead simple to connect.
And as the CE at a tv station for the last 18 years I worked, I have
plenty of experience with the neutriks XLR style connector in
I use a DB9 with shielded cable on pin 5 and the 4 drive lines each using an
upper and lower pin in parallel as redundant connections and less current
density. Cheap enough, readily available on short notice. Might try a DB15 with
dual wires for motor + encoder signals. (That would be a {2 row}
On 18 Feb 2015, at 18:48, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
I have
plenty of experience with the neutriks XLR style connector in 3 and 4 pin
varieties.
I was suggesting Speakon which has a bayonet latch. Very solid and breaks
contact before withdrawal.
On 19 February 2015 at 04:01, richsh...@comcast.net wrote:
Avoid those Molex connectors! Read the data sheet! Not guaranteed to work
after 25 mate/demate cycles!
If I am that indecisive about where my motors connect I deserve to fail :-)
--
atp
If you can't fix it, you don't own it.
I have used regular heat shrink and shaved small chips, almost filings,
of hot melt glue into them. I shrink 1 end, fill with fine shavings,
then work my way along and end up with a little melted glue being
squeezed the other end when closes.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN
The things we
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 10:15:03 PM andy pugh wrote:
On 19 February 2015 at 02:56, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
Neat stuff Andy. But I don't recall seeing it locally, like at Radio
Shack. Looks like I'll have to order it online. Does it keep well
unused?
As far as I
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 08:58:20 AM kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
For those who build your own controls, what connectors do you use to
connect the motors to the control panel? I am talking steppers = 3
amps. The store bought ones I have looked at use a DIN connector.
Richard
I've tried
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-GX-16mm-8-Pin-Aviation-Male-Female-Plug-Panel-Power-Chassis-Metal-Connector-/261504110088?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3ce2dc0e08
works quite well .. There is several other variations as well.
kqt4a...@gmail.com skrev den 2015-02-18 14:58:
For those who build your
For those who build your own controls, what connectors do you use to
connect the motors to the control panel? I am talking steppers = 3 amps.
The store bought ones I have looked at use a DIN connector.
Richard
--
Those connectors are cheap! But I would be hesitant to use them for
stepper connections on a machine that you need to trust. If you get a
bad connection it can take out your stepper driver.
Amphenol and others sells round plastic connectors for not that much.
Check out Digikey, Allied, etc
On 18 February 2015 at 13:58, kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
For those who build your own controls, what connectors do you use to
connect the motors to the control panel? I am talking steppers = 3 amps.
I have used the connectors suggested by Andreas, but my preferred conectors
are
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 09:29:13 AM Dave Cole wrote:
Those connectors are cheap!
As I was paying north of a $8 bill for the mating pair, I did not think
cheap, although one could call their construction less than Tiffany.
OTOH, they have been dead utterly dependable for me.
But I
On 18 February 2015 at 21:46, Greg Bentzinger skullwo...@yahoo.com wrote:
I use a DB9 with shielded cable on pin 5 and the 4 drive lines each using
an upper and lower pin in parallel as redundant connections and less
current density.
DB9 actually has a surprising current carrying capacity
On 19 February 2015 at 02:32, Bruce Layne linux...@thinkingdevices.com
wrote:
If I needed the soldered connections to survive coolant, I'd slide
the heat shrink over uncured five minute epoxy and shrink the tubing to
squeeze out the epoxy and accelerate the epoxy cure,
Why not use
Using acid free caulk I hope? If it smells like vinegar, it has acetic
acid in it that will corrode electronics.
The acetic acid in RTV silicone cures by evaporation, typically in a few
hours. Afterward, it's fairly inert. I don't use it for electronics,
but the only time I've seen it
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 09:15:43 PM Gregg Eshelman wrote:
On 2/18/2015 7:48 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 08:58:20 AM kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
For those who build your own controls, what connectors do you use to
connect the motors to the control panel? I
://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
--
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2015 19:15:43 -0700
From: Gregg Eshelman g_ala...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] motor connections
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Message-ID: 54e5474f.1060
On 2/18/2015 7:48 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 08:58:20 AM kqt4a...@gmail.com wrote:
For those who build your own controls, what connectors do you use to
connect the motors to the control panel? I am talking steppers = 3
amps. The store bought ones I have looked at
On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 09:38:34 PM andy pugh wrote:
On 19 February 2015 at 02:32, Bruce Layne
linux...@thinkingdevices.com
wrote:
If I needed the soldered connections to survive coolant, I'd slide
the heat shrink over uncured five minute epoxy and shrink the tubing
to squeeze
On 19 February 2015 at 02:56, Gene Heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
Neat stuff Andy. But I don't recall seeing it locally, like at Radio
Shack. Looks like I'll have to order it online. Does it keep well unused?
As far as I know it keeps indefinitely, and I can buy it at a choice of 3
Maplin
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