EV Digest 2428

Topics covered in this issue include:

  1) TEVan
        by James Wolfe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  2) Unsubscribe
        by "Chad" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  3) Re: EV digest 2427
        by billb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  4) Re: TEVan
        by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  5) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
        by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  6) Re: My Charger is Toast/Not
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  7) Re: EV digest 2427
        by "Chad" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  8) Re: LED Low Voltage indicator
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  9) Unscribe
        by "Bill Bruder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 10) How To Un-Subscribe
        by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 11) Re: charger
        by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 12) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
        by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 13) Re: Aspire Range
        by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 14) EV Grin!  Electric Lemon's First Juice.
        by Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 15) Re: TEVan
        by "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 16) Raptor600 connection info
        by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 17) Re: EV Grin!  Electric Lemon's First Juice.
        by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 18) RE: Raptor600 connection info
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 19) Re: Raptor600 connection info
        by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 20) RE: EV Grin!  Electric Lemon's First Juice.
        by "Chris Tromley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 21) Re: EV Grin!  Electric Lemon's First Juice.
        by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
 22) RE: Evercel MB80 price
        by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 23) Re: EV Grin!  Electric Lemon's First Juice.
        by Michael Hoskinson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Just when I thought life couldn't get better!
I arrived home from work an Friday November 1st to find a message from
my (now favorite) brother inlaw on my answering machine telling me about
a 1993 Dodge TEVan that was to be auctioned the next day. I was going to
be out of town for the weekend but he agreed to reach me by cell phone
and agreed to bid on it for me. I, (we) were the high bidder. I owned a
second EV! A very clean TEVan with 10,362 miles on the odometer and very
dead batteries. In the paperwork was a MSDS for nickel iron batteries.
Tuesday evening the tow truck dropped it at the house in time for my
birthday. Saturday morning my son inlaw and I towed it 5 miles to his
house where he has a nice concrete slab outside his shop. Saturday
morning we started dropping the battery trays to kinda check out the
watering system and the batteries themselves. First surprise was that
they were ni-cads! The second surprise was the HUGE Black Widow spider
above the battery tray that didn't want her picture taken! All the
batteries checked out ok as did the watering system. I used a 5 Amp
Variac in front of an isolation transformer with some capacitance after
the bridge rectifier to start charging the pack. This setup only gave me
a charge rate of 3 Amps for 48 hours but did indicate that the batteries
were fairly even. They were down to .327 or lower as they have been
sitting for at least 6 months. This past Saturday the batteries went
back in with only one broken fitting on the watering system. I found a
bad 20 amp fuse that wasn't allowing the 12 Volts to power up and when I
replaced it and threw the pack disconnect, the "key in the ignition"
dinger went off as I had the door open. I could have crowed about then
and maybe I did! If I didn't then I did when I took it off the jack
stands and drove it around the yard for a few minutes! Of course the
charge didn't hold very long before the ((B)) red lite came on and the
fuel gauge was on "E".
Sunday the order of business was to see if the charging checked out. The
shop has a 50 Amp welding receptacle just inside the door , so it was
only a matter of rustling up a 4-11 box and a 4-wire 50 amp receptacle
to adapt to the charge cords that were in the van. It didn't have much
of a charge on the batteries, but by 7:30 last night after 6-1/2 hours
the fuel gauge was sitting on full.
I drove it home last night. Grinninn from ear to ear for the whole 5
miles! Tonight after a stop at MVD to register it, I drove around the
block for 20.6 miles with my fingers crossed that nothing would break.
Nothing broke! The fuel gauge is still on 1/2 and it was still humming
along fine, but I got bored. Besides, I thought someone might call the
cops because some guy kept passing the park and grinning like a damned
fool!

Ahhh, life is good. It's kind feels like being a proud papa again.

Jim

I haven't posted it to the EVAlbum yet but I added a page for it at my
web site at qsl.net/ki7cx.

de. . .KI7CX - Jim
www.qsl.net/ki7cx
"see you on the radio"
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Unsubscribe me
Too many emails for my inbox.
I will relist when I get a new address.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- I am wondering if others are having email problems with the EV list too? It arives with the topics listing ok but only the 1st couple of messages are there???

Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:

EV Digest 2427

Topics covered in this issue include:

1) Worm Klez.E immunity
by rmerwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Aspire Range
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Lightweight Jeeps - aluminum mighty mite
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) 50 hp 240Vdc shunt motor
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: My Charger Is Toast (Not)
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: LED Low Voltage indicator
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) 1984 VW brake light problem
by "Sell, Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Lightweight Jeeps - aluminum mighty mite
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) My Charger is Toast/Not
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) wiring
by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
by jon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
by "Robert Salem" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) charger
by "Elizabeth R. Strautin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Zebras - info and some diary (longish)
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) VW Rabbit adapter plate
by "Roy Reker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Evercel MB80 price
by John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
by gail <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Aspire Range
by "Vince" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: My Charger is Toast/Not
by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: My Charger is Toast/Not
by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


------------------------------------------------------------------------

Subject:

Worm Klez.E immunity
From:

rmerwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date:

Mon, 18 Nov 2002 02:43:09 -0500 (EST)
To:

[EMAIL PROTECTED]


Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:45:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v548)
From: Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I was talking with Brian a few days ago about this as I'm planning another conversion, this time high powered (1000 amp T-Rex), and I wanted to find a contactor that could take it. Don't think I'll be using the CIII... I believe the Wild EVolutions Maniac Mazda uses an Allbright SW200 with upgraded magnets. If it works for them it works for me! I'm only going to have 1 T-Rex, not 4... :-)

Seth


On Monday, November 18, 2002, at 09:34 PM, Jim Coate wrote:

Brian Matheny recently sent me this description of how a Czonka III contactor failed by welding shut when carrying (not interrupting) a brief high current.

This is of concern to me as I have 2 of these as the main contactors in my truck and I know some others out there also use them as main contactors:

Brian wrote:
[...] Tried hooking up the heat in my MR2 last week.  Unfortunately
there is apparently a short in the heater cores or wiring since the
first time it was switched on it blew the 35A fuse I had inline.
When I dropped in a replacement fuse it blew in a spectacular
fashion.   Turns out the little Kilovac had welded!  Amazing there
would be enough current since its supposed to interrupt 2000A and
it seems unlikely the approx 20 feet of 12ga wire feeding the
heater would allow more than that since the batts are only rated
for 3000A short circuit. In other words, it seems like they will
provide you absolutely no possible protection in the event of a
shorted controller.  Just thought you might want to know.
-Brian
63,500+ EV miles since 5/97!
http://home.attbi.com/~bmatheny/ws3f.htm

[reposted to the list by permission as Brian isn't on it right now]

_________
Jim Coate
1992 Chevy S10
1970's Elec-Trak
http://www.eeevee.com






--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION

http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html


--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Wow Jim, now that is a great birthday present. Glad to see another TEVan rescued from oblivion. Please keep us all informed of your progress.

Thanks,


Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve Clunn wrote
 This has happed to me while letting somebody else "see what it would do"
( I don't think it imprested them ) I by passed the bat and we were on our
way (this imprested them) .  Here is another little trick to finding bad
connections .  With car on charger charging take you meter set to mv and
take a voltage reading from the + post of bat A to the - post of bat B (like
you were measuring the voltage drop of the cable connecting the two bats)
you'll get a reading in the millavoltes (you will have to push hard on your
probe and have them on the posts). Do a couple and they should be close to
the same voltage . When you find one with a higher than normal voltage drop
you know were your problem is . Then measure from the post to the connector
on each bat and you will know which post and connector to clean .  If your
charging at 10 amps and see an average of 1 millvolts you have 1 mill ohm of
resistance . 1mR x 20 (bats)  = .02 ohms
this means when you pull 500 amps from you bats your losing 10 volts on your
battery connections which at 100v is 10% ( more info than you wanted to
know? ;-) be careful not to get shocked ,don't touch the bats or meter probe
ends .  You could also put a 10 amp load on the batteries and do the test
that way ( so that bad boy won't bite you ). Hope I explanded this good
enough as it works better that looking at them although I like Bob's way
also .
----- Original Message -----
From: "jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:11 PM
Subject: Toasted T-125 battery


>
> So, yesterday my son and I were tooling around in my comutacar, which has
> a pack of Trojan T-125s (8 of them). On the way back to home, we smelled
> something burning, and then observed a big cloud of smoke coming from the
> rear battery compartment.
>
> We hopped out, lifted the cover, and one battery terminal was ON FIRE! So,
> using my super power (bad) breath, I blew it out. (From now on, we will
> carry a CO2 extinguisher). My 9 year old son was quite impressed. ;-)
>
> Well, that battery is toast. The positive terminal melted completely off,
> and into the battery. Wow.
>
> Strange thing is NOTHING ELSE GOT HOT!!???? The 300 A fuse didn't blow,
> and the battery cables were not any warmer than usual. No shorts were
> found, etc.
>
> So, has anyone ever seen a Trojan (or any other battery for that
> matter) develop a high resistance that then causes high temp, and then
> self destructs?
>
> I'm going to replace out the battery, and keep close eye on operating
> current from now on. Any thoughts? It was kinda creepy to have a battery
> go up in flames!!!!
>
> Maybe need a smoke detector in the battery bays. :-)
>
> Jon
>
> --
> Jon Kenneke KA7PGB
> Kenneke Communications
> http://www.kenneke.com
> Radio Takena KTK
> Listen at: http://www.live365.com/stations/kenneke
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Comments inserted...

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Marvin Campbell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:30 AM
Subject: My Charger is Toast/Not


> What I meant to ask was: how would you wire an adapter that only makes use
> of one of the hots? My car plugs into a 14-50 (220) in my garage, but only
> one of the hots is attached inside the plug, so it's only getting 110, but
I
> can run my charger at 30A.
>
> It's easy with the 14-50 as it has a blade for neutral, two blades for
hot,
> and a ground pin. Leave one hot unattached and, voila, 110v!
>
> Is there a way to wire an adapter for 6-30 that only uses one of the hots?

No. You need a neutral.

A 240 VAC center tapped autotransformer would fabricate a neutral for you
from the two hot wires and would provide 60 amps of 120 for you to use. I
would recomment it.

It is not wise to use the ground as a neutral because the ground wire is not
rated for carrying as much current as the breaker will pass.

> > As you said, both hot legs should be 120 from neutral.
>
> And where is the neutral on a 6-30?

It does not leave the breaker panel.

> > It should have worked.
>
> And it would have worked if it hadn't been for you meddling kids!
> (Sorry...obscure Scooby Doo reference)

I recognized it.

> Yeah, that PFC-50 looks like just the ticket to me! With all the buck
> enhancements!

I have one. They are great on anything above a 10 amp circuit. It comes on
with as little as 50 volts on the input. I am converting one to run off DC.
It runs cool enough that it should put out over 100 amps. The PFC-20 has a
better power factor under about 10 amps of line current

--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am using a hotmail account so I only get my first 2megs of email.  This is
fine when I am home, but not when I am away for more than 12 hours.
----- Original Message -----
From: "billb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: EV digest 2427


> I am wondering if others are having email problems with the EV list
> too?  It arives with the topics listing ok but only the 1st couple of
> messages are there???
>
> Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
>
> >     EV Digest 2427
> >
> >Topics covered in this issue include:
> >
> >  1) Worm Klez.E immunity
> > by rmerwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  2) Aspire Range
> > by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  3) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
> > by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  4) Re: Lightweight Jeeps - aluminum mighty mite
> > by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  5) 50 hp 240Vdc shunt motor
> > by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  6) Re: My Charger Is Toast (Not)
> > by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  7) Re: LED Low Voltage indicator
> > by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  8) 1984 VW brake light problem
> > by "Sell, Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >  9) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
> > by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 10) Re: Lightweight Jeeps - aluminum mighty mite
> > by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 11) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
> > by "Ed Koffeman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 12) My Charger is Toast/Not
> > by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 13) wiring
> > by David Brandt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 14) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
> > by jon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 15) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
> > by "Robert Salem" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 16) charger
> > by "Elizabeth R. Strautin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 17) Re: Zebras - info and some diary (longish)
> > by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 18) VW Rabbit adapter plate
> > by "Roy Reker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 19) Re: Evercel MB80 price
> > by John Lussmyer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 20) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
> > by gail <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 21) Re: Aspire Range
> > by "Vince" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 22) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
> > by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 23) Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
> > by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 24) Re: My Charger is Toast/Not
> > by "Joseph H. Strubhar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 25) Re: My Charger is Toast/Not
> > by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 26) Re: 1984 VW brake light problem
> > by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 27) Re: Toasted T-125 battery
> > by Paul G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 28) Re: Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
> > by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Subject:
> >
> > Worm Klez.E immunity
> > From:
> >
> > rmerwin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Date:
> >
> > Mon, 18 Nov 2002 02:43:09 -0500 (EST)
> > To:
> >
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> >Date: Mon, 18 Nov 2002 21:45:08 -0500
> >Subject: Re: Czonka 3 contactors not safe?
> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> >Mime-Version: 1.0 (Apple Message framework v548)
> >From: Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >Message-Id: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> >I was talking with Brian a few days ago about this as I'm planning
> >another conversion, this time high powered (1000 amp T-Rex), and I
> >wanted to find a contactor that could take it.  Don't think I'll be
> >using the CIII...  I believe the Wild EVolutions Maniac Mazda uses an
> >Allbright SW200 with upgraded magnets.  If it works for them it works
> >for me!  I'm only going to have 1 T-Rex, not 4...  :-)
> >
> > Seth
> >
> >
> >On Monday, November 18, 2002, at 09:34  PM, Jim Coate wrote:
> >
> >>Brian Matheny recently sent me this description of how a Czonka III
> >>contactor failed by welding shut when carrying (not interrupting) a
> >>brief high current.
> >>
> >>This is of concern to me as I have 2 of these as the main contactors
> >>in my truck and I know some others out there also use them as main
> >>contactors:
> >>
> >>>Brian wrote:
> >>>[...] Tried hooking up the heat in my MR2 last week.  Unfortunately
> >>>there is apparently a short in the heater cores or wiring since the
> >>>first time it was switched on it blew the 35A fuse I had inline.
> >>>When I dropped in a replacement fuse it blew in a spectacular
> >>>fashion.   Turns out the little Kilovac had welded!  Amazing there
> >>>would be enough current since its supposed to interrupt 2000A and
> >>>it seems unlikely the approx 20 feet of 12ga wire feeding the
> >>>heater would allow more than that since the batts are only rated
> >>>for 3000A short circuit. In other words, it seems like they will
> >>>provide you absolutely no possible protection in the event of a
> >>>shorted controller.  Just thought you might want to know.
> >>>-Brian
> >>>63,500+ EV miles since 5/97!
> >>>http://home.attbi.com/~bmatheny/ws3f.htm
> >>>
> >>[reposted to the list by permission as Brian isn't on it right now]
> >>
> >>_________
> >>Jim Coate
> >>1992 Chevy S10
> >>1970's Elec-Trak
> >>http://www.eeevee.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >--
> >QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
> >
> >http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
> >http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The insulation needs to be rated for pack voltage.

If you use the small wire at the battery you will save the sheathed wire
from frying. In automobiles, they call these "Fusible Links."

Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Coate" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 7:19 AM
Subject: Re: LED Low Voltage indicator


> As in use #30 wire for the entire run (ribbon cable etc) or use a larger
> gage wire for the run with a short length of #30 at the battery
> terminal? Also, this type of thing always confuses me... does the
> insulation on the wire need to be rated for the 6 - 12 volts of the
> battery, or for the 144 - 192 volts etc of the total pack, in case
> somehow things short together? It occurs to me that telephone/ethernet
> cable with 4 pairs of #24 would work nicely for each group of 4
> batteries (and short lengths are easy to come by) but may not have the
> insulation needed.
>
> And thanks Lee for great ideas (as always).
>
> Lee Hart wrote:
> > >> If you want an LED that turns on when battery voltage drops, there
> > >> are "low battery" LEDs with built-in voltage detectors. For example,
> > >> a Lumex SSL-LX5093LBI-SRD (Digikey 67-1195-ND, $1.11 each) turns on
> > >> when the voltage across it drops below 2.5v. For a 10.5v threshold,
> > >> put an 8v zener in series.
> > Yes, you want a fuse or fusible device in each wire. Not so much because
> > the zener or LED might fail, but because the wires themselves may get
> > accidentally shorted. Real fuses are expensive. For applications like
> > this, where the exact fusing current and time aren't important, you can
> > use #30 wire as a fuse, or put a 1/4 watt resistor in series with each
> > lead.
>
> _________
> Jim Coate
> 1992 Chevy S-10
> 1970s Elec-Trak E20
> http://www.eeevee.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Unscribe me.  I'll revisit later.
Sorry if this is the wrong way to unscribe. I had the instructions in a
folder.  Lost my power supply and all.
Bill
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- To un-subscribe:
Send the following email message:
TO: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
SUBJECT: thanks
MESSAGE: signoff ev

Notice, this is a different email address than the one you post to.

Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/~mikt/ev/evlist.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try a Guest model 2745
http://www.boatersworld.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId
=10051&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&productId=7080764

Three stage, Switchmode, Waterproof, Literature does not say if AGM
compatible.

Three separate outputs so all batteries charge independently.

West Marine has something similar at
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=1
0001&langId=-1&catalogId=10001&productId=58457&catalogId=10001&classNum=683&
subdeptNum=544&storeNum=9



Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Elizabeth R. Strautin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 12:27 PM
Subject: charger


> We have three Hawker 12GA75 batteries in series. Do any of you have a
> recommendation for a charger that we could use?
>
> Thanks,
> Elizabeth Strautin
>
> "Character cannot be developed in ease and quiet. Only through experience
of
> trial and suffering can the soul be strengthened, ambition inspired, and
> success achieved."
> -Helen Keller
>
> Elizabeth Strautin
> Duke University
> Engineering '03
> http://www.duke.edu/~ers7
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve Clunn wrote
sounds like you are not using the automotive type connectors (the ones that
go around the post and squeeze it ) .  I have been getting some nice
connectors from the bat store here where the connector is soldered into a 00
cable all for around $9 . Have not had any problems with them . If your bat
has bolts sticking up from the post and you are using the bolts to connect
to this is your weak spot  . you may be able to have a new stud put on that
bat .
----- Original Message -----
From: "jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: Toasted T-125 battery


>
> Thanks all to the help on this one! You are all exactly right: Bonehead me
> didn't tighten that terminal. So, I learned a good lesson, and it only
> cost me a new T-125. ;-(
>
> In the future, I will use a copper washer above and below the cable, spray
> with Deoxit, and check tightness. Then, try a short run to feel any
> heating (or invest in an infrared thermometer). This is only a 24V pack,
> so it's safe to touch the terminals. But, I appreciate the warning for
> folks with higher power packs.
>
> Which, bring up a question: For folks that have high voltage packs, what
> is the protocol for tighening/checking terminals? Rubber gloves?
>
> Jon
>
> On Mon, 18 Nov 2002, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
>
> > Classic case of a loose connector.  If you don't keep all and I mean all
the
> > connections tight the loose one will melt.  Check the connections often
if
> > not sooner.  Lawrence Rhodes....
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "jon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 12:11 PM
> > Subject: Toasted T-125 battery
> >
> >
> > >
> > > So, yesterday my son and I were tooling around in my comutacar, which
has
> > > a pack of Trojan T-125s (8 of them). On the way back to home, we
smelled
> > > something burning, and then observed a big cloud of smoke coming from
the
> > > rear battery compartment.
> > >
> > > We hopped out, lifted the cover, and one battery terminal was ON FIRE!
So,
> > > using my super power (bad) breath, I blew it out. (From now on, we
will
> > > carry a CO2 extinguisher). My 9 year old son was quite impressed. ;-)
> > >
> > > Well, that battery is toast. The positive terminal melted completely
off,
> > > and into the battery. Wow.
> > >
> > > Strange thing is NOTHING ELSE GOT HOT!!???? The 300 A fuse didn't
blow,
> > > and the battery cables were not any warmer than usual. No shorts were
> > > found, etc.
> > >
> > > So, has anyone ever seen a Trojan (or any other battery for that
> > > matter) develop a high resistance that then causes high temp, and then
> > > self destructs?
> > >
> > > I'm going to replace out the battery, and keep close eye on operating
> > > current from now on. Any thoughts? It was kinda creepy to have a
battery
> > > go up in flames!!!!
> > >
> > > Maybe need a smoke detector in the battery bays. :-)
> > >
> > > Jon
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jon Kenneke KA7PGB
> > > Kenneke Communications
> > > http://www.kenneke.com
> > > Radio Takena KTK
> > > Listen at: http://www.live365.com/stations/kenneke
> > >
> >
>
> --
> Jon Kenneke KA7PGB
> Kenneke Communications
> http://www.kenneke.com
> Radio Takena KTK
> Listen at: http://www.live365.com/stations/kenneke
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Using the standard 5speed tranny.  3rd gear seems useful from 25 to 60 mph.
High speed I use 4th gear.  5th is useful going down hills.  Third gear at
45 seems good.  I can pull every freeway hill at this speed so far.  2nd
gear seems to pull most hills at 25 mph. 1st gear for the really steep hills
for one block at a time.  I am afraid of welding the comutator to the
brushes and have started slipping the clutch at some of the very steep
stops.  I have a lot of weight and starting up is slow.  I tried reverse on
a very steep car park ramp and it stalled.  A few seconds of that kind of
abuse will weld things in the motor together. If I loose my speed on a hill
I have to use use 1st and go 15 to 20mph max.  The boards are bare but they
are covered by the hood.  I like them open to cool better.  They are just on
a sheet of plastic with wire ties to hold them in place.  10 batteries up
front.  One in the hump.  8 where the gas tank was and the rear box holds
11.  It is open around the top (just welded to the frame in a few places.  I
was going to use expanding foam to seal it.  It rained and the box got wet
inside.  Hopefully the foam will stop the leak and sound proof the road
noise. The box is the same level as the orginal spare tire well.  All the
batteries fit under the car and no space was lost in the car.  Lawrence
Rhodes.....
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Just over a year since I backed the Citroen D into the garage under dino power for the last time, I completed a small wiring fix, I set my beret to a rakish angle and drove her out tonight for a test drive to the neighbours. YaHOOOO! IT'S ALIVE!

Ok so there's no body yet, no windshield, and the headlight was a small flashlight taped onto the hydraulic line but hey, she has throttle, electric forward and reverse, and a cool green lighted "Canadian Electric Vehicles Ltd" logo on the dash. Comfy seats, brakes that work, power steering. What more could you want? Anyway, the moon is full, who needs lights?

The hydraulic pump motor and regulator make a series of whirring and clunking noises that impress the heck out of the neighbours when I cruise into their driveway and ring the doorbell. I took Larry for a spin to the end of their driveway, got Ruth to take an historic picture. Smooth quiet power. I'm keeping the speed and amp draw down because I have only one string of old 26Ah Hawkers connected; watching the voltage-drop and keeping her above 85 volts. Regen is not yet configured. That will come when I get the second string of batteries paralleled in and start playing with the controller parameters. Today was the 'proof of concept' run which will make my upcoming CBC Radio interview a little more credible. Hey, does this make me a real EV guy or what? YaHOOOOOOOO! (you guys should know that I have invested a lot of personal energy and overcome great personal obstacles (related to illness) to get to this point so this is huge for me, huge, really big)

She has a Kostov sepex motor (field coils rewound by CEV to better insulation specs), the original 4 speed tranny and a Zapi sem-3 96 volt sepex controller. The donor is a 1970 Citroen ID. Hydraulics are powered by a grossly overworked 0.4 HP treadmill motor with v-belt gear reduction (soon to be replaced by one of two much better motors that I have acquired). She's got power brakes, steering and hydro-pneumatic voodoo suspension. The GVW is perhaps a little shy of the optimal if I end up with 16 US 250HC's that I've been planning for, but if it looks bad, I have an alternative, a '72 ID Break (station wagon) that I picked up locally a couple of weeks ago that has a gvw of 4500 lbs. That sucker has the Citromatic transmission. Dare I try to make that work with electric? Maybe not. The main reason for getting the station wagon was the opportunity to put a bumper sticker on it saying "My other Citroen is Electric!" That gross polluter sets off the CO2 alarm in the condo underground parking garage when I drive it 100 feet!

Mike Hoskinson

-Edmonton, Alberta, where the provincial Energy Minister recently said (I'm not making this up) that most CO2 emissions come from people breathing out! Don't hold your breath waiting for green legislation in Alberta. :) These guys are owned by the oil companies and will go to any extreme to prevent our country from ratifying the Kyoto protocol.

Proud to be a Canadian, not so proud to be an Albertan, except that I've one of 3 EV's in this province (and my other car is a hybrid that can go 1200 km on less than 40 litres of gas). And proud to be a member of the EVDL!

Gotta get a few winks before the Leonid meteor shower. Hope you guys all had clear skies; not too promising here...

Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim,
Congratulations!  I don't even want to ask how much you paid for this one!.
NiCd batteries are pretty amazing and one of the few chemistries that will
survive a discharge down to 0 Volts.  The DC/DC converter will discharge
the batteries
to about 90 Volts before dropping out.  This takes a few months to happen.
I usually park my van during the winter months to avoid salt and snow.
I always unplug the main pack from the black control box to prevent
discharge.
Well, I'm going to check out the picks on you qsl.net site...

Rod



Just when I thought life couldn't get better!
I arrived home from work an Friday November 1st to find a message from
my (now favorite) brother inlaw on my answering machine telling me about
a 1993 Dodge TEVan that was to be auctioned the next day. I was going to
be out of town for the weekend but he agreed to reach me by cell phone
and agreed to bid on it for me. I, (we) were the high bidder. I owned a
second EV! A very clean TEVan with 10,362 miles on the odometer and very
dead batteries. In the paperwork was a MSDS for nickel iron batteries.
Tuesday evening the tow truck dropped it at the house in time for my
birthday. Saturday morning my son inlaw and I towed it 5 miles to his
house where he has a nice concrete slab outside his shop. Saturday
morning we started dropping the battery trays to kinda check out the
watering system and the batteries themselves. First surprise was that
they were ni-cads! The second surprise was the HUGE Black Widow spider
above the battery tray that didn't want her picture taken! All the
batteries checked out ok as did the watering system. I used a 5 Amp
Variac in front of an isolation transformer with some capacitance after
the bridge rectifier to start charging the pack. This setup only gave me
a charge rate of 3 Amps for 48 hours but did indicate that the batteries
were fairly even. They were down to .327 or lower as they have been
sitting for at least 6 months. This past Saturday the batteries went
back in with only one broken fitting on the watering system. I found a
bad 20 amp fuse that wasn't allowing the 12 Volts to power up and when I
replaced it and threw the pack disconnect, the "key in the ignition"
dinger went off as I had the door open. I could have crowed about then
and maybe I did! If I didn't then I did when I took it off the jack
stands and drove it around the yard for a few minutes! Of course the
charge didn't hold very long before the ((B)) red lite came on and the
fuel gauge was on "E".
Sunday the order of business was to see if the charging checked out. The
shop has a 50 Amp welding receptacle just inside the door , so it was
only a matter of rustling up a 4-11 box and a 4-wire 50 amp receptacle
to adapt to the charge cords that were in the van. It didn't have much
of a charge on the batteries, but by 7:30 last night after 6-1/2 hours
the fuel gauge was sitting on full.
I drove it home last night. Grinninn from ear to ear for the whole 5
miles! Tonight after a stop at MVD to register it, I drove around the
block for 20.6 miles with my fingers crossed that nothing would break.
Nothing broke! The fuel gauge is still on 1/2 and it was still humming
along fine, but I got bored. Besides, I thought someone might call the
cops because some guy kept passing the park and grinning like a damned
fool!

Ahhh, life is good. It's kind feels like being a proud papa again.

Jim

I haven't posted it to the EVAlbum yet but I added a page for it at my
web site at qsl.net/ki7cx.

de. . .KI7CX - Jim
www.qsl.net/ki7cx
"see you on the radio"




--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi everyone,

I've managed to get my hands on a used Raptor600
controller, which will go into my Mini Cooper.

But, there's no remote LED display or rpm pickup,
and there's no diagram of the connections to the
green terminal block.

Can anyone send me connection info?

Madman, you got yer ears on?
( reply off-list if you like )

Thanks

Richard Bebbington
Electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello to All,

Michael Hoskinson wrote:

> Just over a year since I backed the Citroen D into the garage under dino
> power....drove her out tonight for a test drive to the
> neighbours.  YaHOOOO!  IT'S ALIVE!
> ...this make me a real EV guy or what?  YaHOOOOOOOO!

Congrats, Michael!!! You've certainly come a long way since our early days, when you 
and I
met over our fondness for our Insights...that was when I told you that they were 
training
wheels for future EVers....Hah! I saw that EV grin on your face when you drove Blue
Meanie, but I bet it's a far wider and more pronounced EV grin, now that you've put all
that hard work and dedication into your own EV!

Any possibility you and Gisele can haul your pride and joy to the Canadian EV show this
year for a reunion? We missed seeing you guys at that fun show this past June :-(    
She
could scout the road ahead in the Insight, while you do the towing duties. Tell you
what...you bring your EV and the Insight, and I'll do the same, so that guarantees at
least four 'long-distance-travel'  EVers and four cool enviro cars for the show next 
year!

See Ya.....John Wayland

PS: How's ShoeBox Sub #1 working? Still pumping away?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Richard,

The manual is available online:
http://www.dcpowersystems.com/r600man.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2002 5:16 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Raptor600 connection info


Hi everyone,

I've managed to get my hands on a used Raptor600
controller, which will go into my Mini Cooper.

But, there's no remote LED display or rpm pickup,
and there's no diagram of the connections to the
green terminal block.

Can anyone send me connection info?

Madman, you got yer ears on?
( reply off-list if you like )

Thanks

Richard Bebbington
Electric Mini pickup
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- check http://www.dcpowersystems.com - they have all the manuals right there

Seth



On Tuesday, November 19, 2002, at 08:15 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Hi everyone,

I've managed to get my hands on a used Raptor600
controller, which will go into my Mini Cooper.

But, there's no remote LED display or rpm pickup,
and there's no diagram of the connections to the
green terminal block.

Can anyone send me connection info?

Madman, you got yer ears on?
( reply off-list if you like )

Thanks

Richard Bebbington
Electric Mini pickup






--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION

http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Michael Hoskinson wrote:

> Just over a year since I backed the Citroen D into the garage 
> under dino 
> power for the last time, I completed a small wiring fix, I 
> set my beret to 
> a rakish angle and drove her out tonight for a test drive to the 
> neighbours.  YaHOOOO!  IT'S ALIVE!
> 
> Ok so there's no body yet, no windshield, and the headlight 
> was a small 
> flashlight taped onto the hydraulic line but hey, she has throttle, 
> electric forward and reverse, and a cool green lighted 
> "Canadian Electric 
> Vehicles Ltd" logo on the dash.  Comfy seats, brakes that work, power 
> steering.  What more could you want? Anyway, the moon is 
> full, who needs 
> lights?

Hi Mike,

Congratulations!  I remember when you first proposed the idea of
converting a Citroen DS19 I offered you my sincerest encouragement.  I
think my actual words were, "Are you crazy?"

I am in awe of your boldness, determination and twisted taste in
automotive transport.  Not only did you choose *for your first
conversion* to convert a car that no one else has done, you also picked
one with some truly diabolical design elements, then added a sepex
system for a little more flair.  And got it rolling in a year, some of
which probably involved working in mittens.

I'm sure you have friends who think you should be committed.  Just
remember there are others like me who appreciate exquisitely loopy
behavior.  ;^)

Please keep us posted on your progress.

Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can we see some pictures please?  What a unique car for conversion!

	Seth


On Tuesday, November 19, 2002, at 03:07  AM, Michael Hoskinson wrote:

Just over a year since I backed the Citroen D into the garage under dino power for the last time, I completed a small wiring fix, I set my beret to a rakish angle and drove her out tonight for a test drive to the neighbours. YaHOOOO! IT'S ALIVE!
...

--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION

http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
John,

No, the price actually appears to be going down.

Your posting on 11/12 showed "pallet" quantity prices as higher than these
new individual pricing:

TYPE        11/12p     11/18i
MB100-12     $370       $350
MB80-12      $310       $294
MB50-12      $185       $175
MB40-12      $119       $133
MB15-12      $ 53

So it's actually looking more encouraging. Your potential order cost (less
shipping, etc) has gone down from a group buy price of $4030 to buying just
by yourself for $3822 (5-6% price reduction).

-Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: John Lussmyer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2002 3:21 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Evercel MB80 price


Well, it looks like their prices are going up as they get closer to reality.
I just called Evercell today, and was told:
Availability: Late December
Price:  MB40    $133
        MB50    $175
        MB80    $294
        MB100   $350
No quantity price breaks until the 100+ unit mark.

I just may place an order for 13 of the MB80's, as I am now in the 
situation where my YT's won't quite get me to work.  (i.e. they are 
probably down to 85% of new capacity.)

--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], Phil Bardsley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I called the Evercel office in MA a couple days ago and was quoted a
price for the MB80 of $240 each for quantities of 20 or more. They
wouldn't tell me when the batteries would be available. I didn't ask
about shipping, since that price was a show stopper for me. I'm getting
Optimas instead.
--
John G. Lussmyer      mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.Com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message --- Thanks for all the kind words. After part of a night's sleep and a few Leonid fireballs witnessed before the clouds rolled in, I still feel like that guy in the viagra commercials, bouncing into work.

John, I still have not received word as to whether or not I can get the time off next June for REV-2003. If I do, I will make EVery effort to be there. After all, I need advice about a stereo for it. :)

I didn't have my camera last night, and Gisele could not make it out for the grand first drive (my workshop is 50 km from town). Will rectify that tonight and get a picture on the web site. Warning: it doesn't look much like a Cit just now - no body at all, just a pair of seats and a frame. Hopefully the camera flash will be enough illumination - it gets pretty dark out here well before 5pm this time of year.

Gotta figure out a good model name for it. The D in DS and ID (the ID was a lower trimline and had manual transmission) was for the motor, so I could be justified in calling it an "E". Or, in the style of the bilingual Canadian cereal box, the "Electric D Electrique". Or the CitEV.

Decisions, decisions. Also gotta get to work screwing the body back together.

Mike

At 07:58 AM 19/11/02 -0700, you wrote:
Hello to All,

Michael Hoskinson wrote:

> Just over a year since I backed the Citroen D into the garage under dino
> power....drove her out tonight for a test drive to the
> neighbours. YaHOOOO! IT'S ALIVE!
> ...this make me a real EV guy or what? YaHOOOOOOOO!

Congrats, Michael!!! You've certainly come a long way since our early days, when you and I
met over our fondness for our Insights...that was when I told you that they were training
wheels for future EVers....Hah! I saw that EV grin on your face when you drove Blue
Meanie, but I bet it's a far wider and more pronounced EV grin, now that you've put all
that hard work and dedication into your own EV!
Yup. Blue Meanie was a real inspiration; proved to me that EV can be fun fun fun.


Any possibility you and Gisele can haul your pride and joy to the Canadian EV show this
year for a reunion? We missed seeing you guys at that fun show this past June :-( She
could scout the road ahead in the Insight, while you do the towing duties. Tell you
what...you bring your EV and the Insight, and I'll do the same, so that guarantees at
least four 'long-distance-travel' EVers and four cool enviro cars for the show next year!

See Ya.....John Wayland

PS: How's ShoeBox Sub #1 working? Still pumping away?

Oh yes..  Beautiful stereo, love that sound.

Mike

--- End Message ---

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