EV Digest 4789
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Scrapheap Challenge
by toltec <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: SOC
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Electric Motorcyles ListServ
by mreish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) My ultracaps for sale
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Help with my Link 10 (phantom regen!)
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: New Sparrows now $35,000
by "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Early Ford Ranger motor, was Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
by "Doug Hartley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) RE: performance problems
by D Franklin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Newbie
by Bob Bath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) happieness is 36,000 watts
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion
by "David Chapman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) I'm famous!
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Science Project (long)
by Gary Van Ravenswaay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Newbie
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
John Luck Home asked:
> Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine
> stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring connectors.
> Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug?
A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped
connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large
connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection when
done by amateurs.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
paul compton (RRes-Roth) wrote:
Scrapheap Challenge (also re-Broadcast and produced in the US as
Junkyard Wars).
UK Series 8 is three programmes into it's run.
Next week is off-road EV's with yours truly as one of the team experts.
great! please let us know the outcome (after it's broadcast, so as not
to spoil the suspense for viewers, of course)
that is a great show - unfortunately, it is not running on US tv any
longer (at least on none of the cable channels I get)... they started up
a couple of US-produced versions of it, which instantly degenerated into
"take an existing ICE and weld a catapult and battering ram onto it"
uselessness... the original, Scrapheap, on the other hand, was a heck of
a lot of fun! glad to see they're doing EVs...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>steve clunn said :
>must be a good DMM
actually it is a radio-shack 22-812. I think it is just cheap enough to
be so slow as to provide it's own debouncing. I was watching MV from the
shunt and had to wait till I got home to calculate my amps.
>How far were you planning on going ?
8 miles, one way to work to make the front battery rack for the last 8
batteries.
>OOOOh so you got brakes but no water cooling .... :-) ,,, also don't
forget to brake in you motor and batteries easy ,,, for the first 500
miles > >this is the 300 zx right ,
Yes it is the 300zx, man was it a bear to stop without the pump. I had
taken it for a few round the block trips.
The real interesting variation here in using the SUV tire-inflator from
pepboys is I can still hook up the provided air hose and open my vacum
dump valve and air up my tires :-) on board air. 59.99. if it lasts I
will recommend it as an alternative to $200-$300 units.
Th 312 calculated amps was 12.8 mv on a 50mv 1200 amp shunt, i was
accelerating a little hard that time, god I hope I wasn't putting 1000
motor amps out. I thought I was taking it easy.
156*140 = 21.8kw
218*70 = 15.2kw
Humm, I can't watch the gauge safely yet and the speedometer is not
working. IT is a nissan thing, don't know if I got it hooked up wrong or
if the sender or gauge is bad, it reads 65 at a stop and goes to 115 at
traffic speeds.
I am a big person, except I have short legs and this car has a deep foot
box. Barley enough seat belt. I couldn't use the seatbelt when I moved
the seat forward :-(, had to make an extender. Another reason to loose
some friggen weight. I am at least 3 batteries overweight.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jerry wrote:
>The Sparrow is now back for sale for $35,000
$35,000 is not a good deal.
2 possible reasons for the high price tag:
1. It's expensive to build anything in the US anymore.
2. Trying to make a living off building and selling those cars. I
wonder what the profit margin is? 50%, 100%, 150%?
I wonder if I was to hand build one from parts individually purchased
or made, what it would total up to be?
$35,000 is sports car money. This vehicle is hardly performance
oriented. If they are marketing this as an economical money
saver/commuter, they need to aim for sub $10,000. Then people will
buy it.
$35 grand is a lot of money for so little car. People on this list
can't yet justify $8,000 to convert their existing car because the pay
back through fuel savings takes so long. Let alone, $35,000...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For that kind of money you could make a real nice faired chopper with custom
everything. I can't imagine too many sold at that price. They need to have
Zap sell them at that price. Lawrence Rhodes......
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerry dycus" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 11:58 AM
Subject: New Sparrows now $35,000
Hi All,
The Sparrow is now back for sale for $35,000 !!!! Maybe I
should raise my
prices ;^D
I wonder if they will be able to sell any at those prices?
At least it should raise the prices of the Corbin Sparrows.
Jerry Dycus
http://myersmotors.com/welcome.html
http://myersmotors.com/sparrowfeatures.html
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does the world really need another mailing list? Probably not but
from looking at the traffic logs of ElectricMotorcyles.Net and recent
messages on the EVDL, the time might be right for one more. So I
decided to start a listserv just for electric motorcycles. I expect
very low traffic and I intend it to supplement the EVDL.
To subscribe, send an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I know some of you cagers (humor) look at this message as spam but
worry not, this is the only mention of it I'll make for a long time
to come.
Mike
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
DEar EV fellows,
I will sell my ultracaps bank as is, in the welded aluminum box
with the lid on hinge, as some of you have seen. Some info is here:
http://www.metricmind.com/ac_honda/ultracaps.htm
The price is what I paid for the hardware: $4.8k for
160 MAxwell 2.7kF 2.5V caps ($30 a piece) and $500 for
the custom aluminum box, + all the interconnects + equalizing
resistors ladder. My labor is free then...
400V max for the whole bank.
It works perfectly fine as suppose to, I'm just replacing my
battery pack with stiffer one, so no longer will be able to
take advantage of the caps.
Any takers before it goes on ebay?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A friend of mine, who is a jack of all trades, mentioned another technique he
has good resutls with. Not sure if anyone else has tried this. He heats up a
pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the cable ito the hot solder. The
cable has been fluxed, but I don't think he tins it first. Says it works pretty
good. I would imagine you'd want to heat the cable up first so you don't get a
cold solder joint. Is this a neat trick or recipe for disaster?
Dave Cover
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 17:16:17 -0500
John Luck Home asked:
> Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine
> stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring connectors.
> Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug?
A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped
connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large
connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection when
done by amateurs.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-10-03, Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
> For that kind of money you could make a real nice faired chopper
Faired chopper? I guess it keeps the prop wash off your head ...
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 3, 2005, at 8:56 AM, Adams, Lynn wrote:
Disconnected (i.e. clipped) the negative line coming out of
pin one on the Emeter leading to the prescaler leaving the line
connected to the - terminal of the hawker, the current immediately
changed to the proper -16Amps used by my heater (which was running the
whole time). I therefore conclude that there is something either in
the
negative volt line or the prescaler (which should be a straight through
connection). I'm going to bypass that section of the line and connect
directly to the negative post of the battery to see if that eliminates
the problem.
NOOOO!! The e-meter must never see full pack voltage. I don't think
just running the positive line through the prescaler will keep the
e-meter from harm. The prescaler is made of only passive parts (as far
as I can tell) so cannot reasonably inject noise.
What you have determined is that there is to much noise in the e-meter
voltage input (either positive or negative) or some type of small
voltage offset.
You wouldn't happen to be using the tiny Kzonka contactors that are so
attractively priced, are you? One of those in the negative line is a
recipe for trouble (been there, done that, undid that) especially if
that contactor (with its PWM driven coil) is near the shunt.
If I'm in error, in either what you had in mind or any of the details
of the e-meter stuff, someone on this list will correct me quickly. If
you are suggesting what I think you are you e-meter will most likely
require repair.
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Keep in mind that Myers only has 36 of them to sell. Corbin went out of
business owing money to all of its creditors and thus all the forms
necessary to build more Sparrows were destroyed. Once Myers sells all
of the remaining Sparrows, it can't produce any more.
If you were them, wouldn't you set a high price? All they have to do is
find 36 people willing to pay $35,000. I'd bet that's possible.
Setting the price lower will just make their production run end at the
same time but with less profit.
- Jake Oshins
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ryan Stotts
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 4:03 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
Jerry wrote:
>The Sparrow is now back for sale for $35,000
$35,000 is not a good deal.
2 possible reasons for the high price tag:
1. It's expensive to build anything in the US anymore.
2. Trying to make a living off building and selling those cars. I
wonder what the profit margin is? 50%, 100%, 150%?
I wonder if I was to hand build one from parts individually purchased
or made, what it would total up to be?
$35,000 is sports car money. This vehicle is hardly performance
oriented. If they are marketing this as an economical money
saver/commuter, they need to aim for sub $10,000. Then people will
buy it.
$35 grand is a lot of money for so little car. People on this list
can't yet justify $8,000 to convert their existing car because the pay
back through fuel savings takes so long. Let alone, $35,000...
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 3 Oct 2005 17:19:06 -0700 (PDT), Dave Cover
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>A friend of mine, who is a jack of all trades, mentioned another technique he
>has good resutls with. Not sure if anyone else has tried this. He heats up a
>pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the cable ito the hot solder.
>The cable has been fluxed, but I don't think he tins it first. Says it works
>pretty good. I would imagine you'd want to heat the cable up first so you
>don't get a cold solder joint. Is this a neat trick or recipe for disaster?
This is the traditional method of attaching lugs that predates crimped
connections. My mid-40s Coyne Electrical handbook (from the Coyne
Institute of Electricity in Chicago) details this procedure.
The process involves using a gasoline blowtorch (pre-propane torches)
to heat the lug while melting wire solder in the upturned lug. Solder
lugs of the era had a fill line inscribed on the inside. The cable is
fluxed and with the heat still on the lug, inserted into the lug,
slowly enough that the solder wicks up into the cable strands. After
a prescribed number of seconds (table, wire size vs seconds in the
book), the heat is removed and the lug quenched with a wet rag to stop
the wicking. The idea is to let the solder wick up the cable enough
for a good joint but not far enough to go back under the cable
insulation and make a brittle solid mass.
This is one of the best termination methods a person can do at home
without fancy tools. The major problem with this method is that most
lugs nowadays have inspection holes formed in the bottom of the wire
well. This precludes filling the well with solder.
Trying to heat the lug and then feed solder into the inspection hole
results in solder wicking back up the cable for a distance, making a
brittle solid mass.
A better method is the solder pot dip method. This involves a pot of
molten solder, deep enough to accommodate the entire lug. Solder pots
are commercially available or one can heat it in a cast iron vessel
with a torch or even portable stove.
The lug and cable are fluxed and assembled and a light crimp applied,
just enough to hold the lug on the cable. The lug is then dipped into
the solder up to just below the inspection hole and allowed to remain
until the lug is heated enough to boil the flux. I use a Kester liquid
activated rosin flux designed for wave soldering. Then the lug is
immersed into the solder up to within a fraction of the top of the
well and left there until solder can be seen inside the well and on
the cable. The solder feeds in through the inspection hole. The lug
is lifted from the solder, the excess blown off the contact area with
an air hose (or wiped with a thick dry cotton rag if no air is
available) and the lug quenched with a wet rag. Don't dip in water,
as a steam/solder explosion can result.
This process involves a bit of skill and timing. When done just
right, the solder wicking is stopped just as it reaches the mouth of
the lug. The cable should remain flexible almost up to the lug's
mouth.
Once you get a feel for the process, it proceeds rapidly. It's not
much slower than a pure crimp and much better electrically. With a
small ladle such as used by bullet casters, one can dip a lug even in
tight, cramped spots. In fact, the lead pot and ladle made by Lee Mfg
for shooters is ideal for this application.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jake Oshins wrote:
> Corbin went out of
> business owing money to all of its creditors and thus all the forms
> necessary to build more Sparrows were destroyed.
That doesn't make any sense. Why would they have to destroy all the forms?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The problem with solder connections, is that its make a good fuse that melts
when there is a short. The solder melting temperature is about 330 F. Now if
you used high temperature silver solder that is rated for 1000 F., the heat to
applied this will crystallize the copper. All of our high voltage substations
and overhead line connections are now mechanical. Even the copper buss line
pipes that look like copper plumbing pipe are all mechanical connected now.
I would not trust a solder connection that is place in the battery compartment.
If you go on overload or if there is a short, the solder connection could
melt, which will part the cable from the lug, causing increasing arcing burning
holes in the battery and maybe a explosion of hydrogen gas venting. I had
this happen one time!!!
At one time we used to twist and solder electrical connections back in the 20's
in tube and knob installation and in the 40's in J-boxes. A short has cause
many of these connections to fail and cause fires.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Cover<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: EVList<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
A friend of mine, who is a jack of all trades, mentioned another technique he
has good resutls with. Not sure if anyone else has tried this. He heats up a
pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the cable ito the hot solder. The
cable has been fluxed, but I don't think he tins it first. Says it works pretty
good. I would imagine you'd want to heat the cable up first so you don't get a
cold solder joint. Is this a neat trick or recipe for disaster?
Dave Cover
Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>> wrote:
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 17:16:17 -0500
John Luck Home asked:
> Why does everyone crimp these connectors instead of tinning the fine
> stranded welding cable and soldering them into closed end ring connectors.
> Isn't this going to give better contact area from cable to lug?
A perfect soldered connection is just as good as a perfect crimped
connection. However, soldering takes more skill, especially for large
connections. So crimping is more likely to produce a good connection when
done by amateurs.
--
Lee Hart 814 8th Ave N Sartell MN 56377 [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor,
Actually the first generation of Ford Electric Rangers were made by TDM
(Transportation Design and Manufacturing) in Detroit for 1996, and used a
Northrupp Grumman electric motor. This motor was cooled by expensive &
exotic (at least to me) turbine oil. It was coupled to a custom made single
speed gear reduction "transmission". I have one of these TDM
motor/inverter/gear reduction assemblies in my garage, mounted on a rolling
display stand. The motor was probably actually made by an associated
company, such as Westinghouse, but I doubt it would be Seimens.
Best Regards,
Doug
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: We got the Sunrise !!!
There were few generations of Fords.
First ones put together by EDM (if I recall the name correctly)
used Siemens motors.
Ford ordered them from Siemens to build for them, and
put their (ford) label on it.
Later gen used Ballard's systems (still copy of
Siemens', but this is another story). Ford built
these vehicles, not EDM (I've inspected software for
EDM, and parameter set is little different
than standard Siemens' drive.
I don't know about business arrangement between
Ford and Ballard. All I can see that the motors
installed in any generation of Rangers are Siemens
design ones. Ballard's inverters are different though.
Bruce Weisenberger wrote:
Interesting- I have seen a Ford EV-Ranger Motor and
Controller. And it has Ford emblems all over it. And
Victor informed me they were Siemiens Motors and
Controllers. Was Ballard buying Siemiens and selling
it to Ford to put their Emblems on it?
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Mon, 3 Oct 2005 19:45:14 -0600, "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>The problem with solder connections, is that its make a good fuse that melts
>when there is a short. The solder melting temperature is about 330 F. Now if
>you used high temperature silver solder that is rated for 1000 F., the heat to
>applied this will crystallize the copper. All of our high voltage substations
>and overhead line connections are now mechanical. Even the copper buss line
>pipes that look like copper plumbing pipe are all mechanical connected now.
>
>I would not trust a solder connection that is place in the battery
>compartment. If you go on overload or if there is a short, the solder
>connection could melt, which will part the cable from the lug, causing
>increasing arcing burning holes in the battery and maybe a explosion of
>hydrogen gas venting. I had this happen one time!!!
This is beyond silly. If I have a condition that is heating my
conductors to solder's melting point, I have a much greater problem
than lugs coming off. In fact, I hope to God the solder joint DOES act
like a fuse!
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dave Cover wrote:
> He heats up a pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the
> cable into the hot solder. The cable has been fluxed, but I don't
> think he tins it first. Says it works pretty good... Is this a
> neat trick or recipe for disaster?
Sounds like a recipe for disaster! You get a joint of unknown quality
that you can't inspect.
--
The two most common elements in the universe are hydrogen and stupidity.
-- Harlan Ellison
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ryan and All,
Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jerry wrote:
>The Sparrow is now back for sale for $35,000
$35,000 is not a good deal.
No it's not, You can buy my much better Freedom EV and a Sunrise
with AC in each for that kind of money.
Personally I doubt they will sell them or even 1 or 2 of them with
all the used Sparrows for sale. Plus it just is not a good design.
2 possible reasons for the high price tag:
1. It's expensive to build anything in the US anymore.
Not if you know what you are doing. My Freedom EV will go for only
$13k base and I'll make quite a good profit on it and be debt free by the 3rd
unit !!
The Sparrow was not designed for ease of building, too many parts,,
overweight, ect
2. Trying to make a living off building and selling those cars. I
wonder what the profit margin is? 50%, 100%, 150%?
Probably they may break even with the price they paid for the parts,
ect and setting up a production line not to mention the money spent trying to
fix it's problems. Of course they will have to actually sell them at that price
which will be interesting to watch. If they can, it really says the EV market
is really starved..
I wonder if I was to hand build one from parts individually purchased
or made, what it would total up to be?
I can do a similar one in composites in about $5k in materials.
$35,000 is sports car money. This vehicle is hardly performance
oriented. If they are marketing this as an economical money
saver/commuter, they need to aim for sub $10,000. Then people will
buy it.
They sold well at $16K with many orders that were never filled so the
market is there and probably better now but $35K !! ?
$35 grand is a lot of money for so little car. People on this list
can't yet justify $8,000 to convert their existing car because the pay
back through fuel savings takes so long. Let alone, $35,000...
I have plenty bellying up for the Freedom EV for $13k and it's just got
it's tooling done and won't be ready for a while. The mid teens $ market is
there without a doubt. Even the reg girls at my bank want one after seeing my E
woody and pics of the molds. Women seem to really like small 2 seat cars, EV's
!!
HTH's,
Jerry Dycus
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An easy way to find phantom loads is to unhook the negative 12v battery cable,
and hook a testlight in series between the battery - and the disconnected
negative cable. If the light glows bright you have a drain. You can then
experiment by pulling fuses and other circuits till the light goes out. It
takes months for a battery to go dead from computer memories and clocks and
radio memories.
Gentlemen, I have a 20 battery 120 Volt pick-up truck. I just bought the
truck fully converted from a man in Michigan who did a great job on it. I'm
happy with the truck but I do have some problems. First, the truck skips,
bucks, stutters and jumps like a bunny rabbit in reverse (no clutch). I
thought this was a non use thing when I test drove the truck but it hasn't
gone away. (DCP Raptor 600 controller) What can I do to fix this?
Secondly, the 12 Volt system looses charge when allowed to sit for a week or
more. The key wasn't even in the truck, no lights / radio left on, etc.
Could I have a faulty ignition switch? Signed, new guy in western North
Carolina (Ross)
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
---------------------------------
Yahoo! for Good
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What are my options for a fairly old 2 ga cable made of very fine,
flexible wire that has a substantial oxide on it? It's actually for my
12v inverter. I'd like to solder it but I'm not sure the solder will
even stick. Due to some poor decisionmaking when I build the system
there's not a lot of slack here to cut back an inch or two in search of
better wire.
Danny
Lee Hart wrote:
Dave Cover wrote:
He heats up a pool of solder inside the lug and then pushes the
cable into the hot solder. The cable has been fluxed, but I don't
think he tins it first. Says it works pretty good... Is this a
neat trick or recipe for disaster?
Sounds like a recipe for disaster! You get a joint of unknown quality
that you can't inspect.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi James, and welcome to the list.
Wikipedia search for electric vehicles will bring you
to state of the art speed in a hurry!
I have several
> chassis available. A
> ford clubcab f150,
not the most aerodynamic; als pretty heavy, right?
a 929 Mazda,
Might work. Is yours a stick?
and a grand
> wagoneer.
No headrests, and I'm guessing again, heavy.
I am interested in
> building an APU to go with whatever EV I build as
> well.
>
> I am interested in groups here in Houston that are
> developing this sort of
> thing. So any links would be appreciated.
>
Needless to say, (see signature) I'm a Civic nut.
Living proof that lurking on the list long enough,
even with a biology degree, not EE, mech/tech, or
physics, can get you into this stuff if you mull it
over and have a vision.
Keep writing with your questions.
Also, seek Mike Brown's book, "Convert It".
'92 Honda Civic sedan, 144V (video or DVD available)!
www.budget.net/~bbath/CivicWithACord.html
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'O'-----'O'-'
Would you still drive your car if the tailpipe came out of the steering wheel?
Are you saving any gas for your kids?
__________________________________
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Yea... a pile of Nichrome Glowing hot... I have to get some shots of the shop
at night with the 75K clocking at 1/2 snort.
This is real close to 3 Bucks a hour of Grid power.
The whole shop was jumping up about 1.5 Degrees a minute.
Clearly the power stage is hanging in there.
The power bench marks are falling one by one....
Madman is having a good time in R&D....
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An argument. As far as my world view goes, from what I read on the NEDRA
site under the current rules, if its a conversion and its street legal then
its SC. Again, under the current rules it for sure is MC, street legal or
not. And as far as a fellow racer feeling that they might not be competitive
with your car, whatever class its in, that is what bracket racing is for. If
they want to run heads up against you for the class records, then they need
to step up to the "Marks".
Good luck Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Marks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 03, 2005 1:11 PM
Subject: RE: Street Conversion vs Modified Conversion
I'm wondering if this rules the Ghiamonster www.ghiamonster.com out of
even the MC class since only the unibody of the original Ghia has been
converted in any way and the rest of the vehicle is custom built from
the ground up. Furthermore, just to complicate things, I intend to
register it with the DMV as a street legal vehicle.
Can anyone tell me what that makes it?
Steve
For NEDRA, here's some random ideas:
A "Stock conversion" class where the car is nearly completely
stock except for things needed to electrify. Stock rim sizes,
uses the tranny.
"Street conversion" anything goes as long as it is street
legal and a conversion.
"Modified conversion" anything goes as long as it is a conversion.
So this now begs the question, what exactly is a "conversion"
in NEDRA's eyes? Would a Factory Five Cobra kit be a
conversion? Is a tube framed race car that happens to have a
car body a conversion?
Would a 65 Mustang with a fiberglass body and roll cage, but
stock floor pan, still be a conversion?
The information contained in this email message is being transmitted to
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVeryone,
I was interviewed by the local newspaper a few days ago. This morning,
the article came out on the front page, complete with a picture of
me...(oh great!)
The question/answer session was stuck in the article pretty much
verbatim. In retrospect, I probably would have said a few things
differently. But all things considered, I'm pretty happy with it.
Link: http://hjnews.townnews.com/articles/2005/10/03/news/news03.txt
Hopefully that link works for anyone interested.
BTW, I did send in an e-mail to the paper in response to another article
about a local NEV. So it pays to make contact - you might just get
noticed and publicized.
-Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello everyone,
First let me introduce myself. I'm a future science
teacher. I say future because about five years ago I
went through a series of layoffs that resulted in my
returning to college to become a teacher. Since I've
always been interested in the sciences that seemed
like the way to go (I can play with all the stuff I
like and get kids into, it and get paid for it!).
Anyway I am 45 years old and I find myself teacher
assisting in a local middle school and I will be
student teaching in the winter. Maybe by this time
next year I will have my own classroom.
I am currently teaching an exploratory class called
"Science in Motion" to a group of seventh graders many
of whom might be classified as "at risk" students. We
have been working on designing and building CO2
powered model dragsters and applying Newton's laws to
predict outcomes of races. The cars are just about
ready to run and the unit will soon be finished. In
another week or so, my coordinating teacher and I will
find ourselves in a room with 20 seventh graders (half
of which might be considered "at risk") with 4 weeks
left in the marking period and no real plans (this is
the first time he's taught this unit).
Here's where this finally ties into the ev list. I
have been keeping up with the list for a couple years
now but I rarely post simply because I am torn in too
many directions lately. I am going to propose to my
coordinating teacher that we research and design an ev
as a class, dividing the class into groups and
assigning various design aspects to different groups,
and having individual groups report back to the class
on what they have found so the class can discuss and
approve possible design aspects and hardware
selections. I believe that I will assign a group to
research batteries, one group to motors, one to
possible donor cars vs. design from scratch, etc... I
think this would make a good project to get students
thinking about the future of transportation and how
they might help to influence the public both through
personal communication and through raising community
awareness of some of the upcoming issues in the
transportation industry and related industries, and
how these might be addressed. I think I can get the
kids interested, especially with gas prices like they
are right now (their parents will probably be
interested). I think that designing an ev would be
perfect for the classes theme "Science in Motion" as
they will have to learn about electricity, batteries,
motors, tires, chassis design, efficiency, horsepower,
performance vs. economy, etc....
My request of the list is this. Could several
indidviduals on this list respond in terms of ideas
for approaching this project, possible sources for
parts of all types: motors, batteries, controllers,
battery management systems, anything that might be
helpful. I'll need a list of possible sources of
information and parts (like this list :) ) Does this
sound like a good idea? What could I do differently.
What am I missing? I know this list is full of people
that have a ton of knowledge and I'm hoping I can tap
into that source if you all would be willing. I think
this could be a great way to influence a group of
students to start thinking differently about how they
will accomplish their personal transportation needs
before any of them purchases a first car. Can you
help me plant a seed?
Best Regards,
Gary Van Ravenswaay
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Corbin didn't, the company that owned them, and hadn't been paid,
did. (Still seems stupid, as they may have been able to sell them.)
At 06:28 PM 10/3/2005, Ryan Stotts wrote:
> Corbin went out of
> business owing money to all of its creditors and thus all the forms
> necessary to build more Sparrows were destroyed.
That doesn't make any sense. Why would they have to destroy all the forms?
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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So I've got this deep cycle battery on the van- cheapo EverStart Marine-
that I put in just a couple of months ago. It's been on that alternator
setup that provides the proper voltage but the current is unlimited. It
no longer works properly, the float voltage isn't bad but as soon as
it's loaded with a few amps it drops to 10.5v and with the engine on it
goes to 14.5v and takes only like 200mA.
I finally found my specific gravity meter and checked. All the cells
show up as being "fully charged" except for one on the end which doesn't
even lift the dial to "1.1". Basically doesn't measure at all.
What does this? My theory would be an internal short drained it so the
specific gravity won't read. Is there anything I can do with it?
Danny
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi James, welcome to the List.
Unless you are independently wealthy, you might want to reconsider your
selection of conversion candidates.
Right now, unless you have the bucks to afford LiIon or LiPol batteries
($30,000+) you are probably going to use Lead-Acid batteries.
A general rule-of-thumb for Lead-Acid batts is that it takes 600-700 lbs
of batteries to move a conversion the same distance as 1 gallon of gas did
before conversion.
So figure you are going to end up with a range similar to about 2 gallons
of gas. Can you live with that? If so, then go ahead and use those
vehicles, otherwise look for a vehicle that gets excellent mileage and has
a fair amount of cargo(weight) capacity.
Oh yeah, and look for a candidate that is in very good condition. You
don't want to take a crappy car and put $7-8,000 worth of parts into it
and end up with a crappy EV.
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> I am a newbie wanting to get a good start on building an EV.
> I am looking for information on building a safe, economical, vehicle that
> will drag 2 adults and 3 kids around. I have several chassis available. A
> ford clubcab f150, a 929 Mazda, and a grand wagoneer. I am interested in
> building an APU to go with whatever EV I build as well.
>
> I am interested in groups here in Houston that are developing this sort of
> thing. So any links would be appreciated.
>
> Any guidance suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated.
>
> James McKethen
> James (at) Ip-concepts.com
>
>
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junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
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--- Begin Message ---
On 4 Oct 2005 at 1:45, Danny Miller wrote:
> So I've got this deep cycle battery on the van ...
> with the engine on it goes to 14.5v and takes only
> like 200mA.
Sorry to be a cranky old so and so, but this doesn't seem to be a post about
an EV. Please post ICE-related questions in a general automotive forum.
There are many of them all over the web. One possibility :
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/cars/
Alternatively, if you want to ask someone on the EV list a question about
your ICE's battery, you might pick a couple of knowledgable list members and
send the question to them via private email, NOT by a public post.
And while I'm whining ;-), please don't hijack threads and change their
subjects. This post has nothing to do with "happiness is 36,000 watts."
Thanks for your cooperation.
PS - you need a new battery in your van. That one has a shorted cell. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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