EV Digest 4799
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Solectria E-10 stalling
by "EVdave" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Separate 12volt chargers
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded? - oops.
by "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Meggers/low resistance, was: RE: Cable Crimping Tools
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Windows for Sunrise
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Separate 12volt chargers
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: TN EV buses on eBay
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Those Allbright contactors
by "Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Solectria E-10 stalling
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Renault cancels electric and hybrid cars
by Ken Olum <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Thoughts/questions on getting an inverter built
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Crimp versus solder
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Attn Eathlink Customer,
you have a virus (was Re: Emailing: 655.html
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: DLS-55 ready to install.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Cruise control in EVision
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Another 75 minds infused
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
i have had situations where, if i leave the console in forward or reverse,
and shut the key off, when i get back in the car to go, just putting the key
in and turning, the vehicle wont go.... i have to put it in neutral, shut
the key off, then back on and shift it to fwd in order for it to work.
almost like a safety feature that the vehicle has to be in neutral when the
key is turned on, and then you can choose fwd or rev.... but never have i
had it fail AFTER i was already moving........
mind you, ive only had my E-10 for 1.5 months, with 2000 miles put on
it.....
db
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jacob" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 10:15 AM
Subject: Solectria E-10 stalling
Have any of you E-10 or Force owners ever experienced stalling while
accelerating into traffic or going up mild inclined hills? Yes, complete
stalling - this can be very dangerous and is what I'm dealing with. When
it
stalls, I can get it going again right away usually if I switch the
console
to neutral, turn off the key and back on again and then put it back in
forward again. Do think this is a POT or motor controller issue or
something
else? Currently I'm just driving it with one controller and motor as the
other side controller is removed for (hopeful) repair.
Thanks..Jacob Harris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 6 Oct 2005 at 23:03, Robert Chew wrote:
> Just wondering about this idea. I want to charge my 72 volt battery pack
> made up of SCS225 12 volt Trojans, with separate 12 volt chargers.
If the chargers are isolated from the power line (have transformers), you
just connect one charger directly to each battery in the usual way. Dead
easy.
Make sure you check every time before driving, and ensure that all the
chargers did their jobs. If one didn't, and left a battery flat, you'll
ruin that battery.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- Begin Message ---
Eric
Thanks for clearing that up. My error - I must have missed some earlier
posts and assumed it was AC powered.
Phil
From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install - safely grounded?
Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2005 07:48:58 -0700
Phil,
He's using the DLS-55 as a DC-DC converter. He's hooking the AC hot /
neutral input lines to the + and - of his traction pack, and leaving the
ground wire "unconnected," even though it's electrically connected to the
car frame via the chassis of the device. Earth ground / GFI don't apply
here.
Phil Marino wrote:
Connecting the box to the body of the car doesn't do anything to ground
the car if the box isn't grounded either.
Is the car ( or the box, since they are connected together) connected to
earth ground ( the green wire from your outlet) ?
You need a ground wire connected to the car body ( and, preferably, a GFI,
also) , so the car can't become hot relative to ground. If it did, it
would be dangerous for you and any one else who could come into contact
with the car while it was plugged in.
Phil
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
That current rating is probably only good for 10 seconds or so, not
continuous. If it's cheap enough, I suppose it could be tested by
placing it in an existing EV in series with a normal EV contactor and
seeing if it welds under load. Even so, I'd be concerned about it's max
current breaking capability.
Robert Chew wrote:
HI all,
Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one at
the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks very
beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a lot
less than the contactors from Albright etc....
Just want to know opinions
Cheers
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Why would you put Noalox (No ALuminum OXide) designed for
> aluminum wiring on a copper cable? As I understand it, it is
> not an electrically conductive material, it is designed to prevent
> aluminum wiring from oxidizing due to moisture.
Noalox has become a brand name, used to market a variety of contact
lubricants. It is also sometimes used by people as a generic name for
*anything* they put on connections.
> I have seen several shops that use a "grease" to keep the battery
> fumes from attacking the cable connectors and battery connections.
Basically, that's all it is -- grease. Just something to keep water out
of the connection, to prevent corrosion. Vaseline, chassis lube, etc all
work about the same.
The "conductivity" of the grease is irrelevant. Nothing they put in the
grease will have enough conductivity to make any difference compared to
the infinitesimal resistance of the metal-to-metal contact itself. The
additives are mainly snake-oil to justify high prices.
The pressure in a properly-made crimp is so high (tons per square inch)
that the metals cold-flow together and weld. The grease won't interfere
with this; it will just get shoved out of the way.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Mike Swift wrote:
> In California the DMV requires DOT approved safety glass for the
> windshield. Side and backlight glass may be tempered glass, i.e.
> the type that breaks into small rounded pieces when broken.
> Production cars are not allowed to use plastic for windows.
Well; it's a bit more complicated than that. There are loopholes in the
rules.
Jeeps and convertibles have both recently been sold with plastic side
and rear windows. These were production vehicles, sold by the major
automakers.
Windshields have exceptions, too. Antique and classic cars don't require
safety glass. They have been "grandfathered" in, i.e. they never
bothered to change the law to require retrofitting safety glass into
cars that didn't come with it in the first place.
3-wheel vehicles like the Sparrow are motorcycles in the eyes of the law
in some states, and so don't require glass windshields.
The "roadster" body style doesn't even require a windshield! This
loophole has been used by a number of kit cars and at least one EV.
Basically, safety glass was the best choice for windshields 50 years
ago. Laws tend to be written to specify the method, not the results; so
they wrote "safety glass" into the law rather than specifying its
strength, scratch resistance, or safety properties.
Today, the "safety glass" in car windshields has gotten thinner, weaker,
and more likely to scratch. Meanwhile, plastics have improved to where
they can beat or exceed the characteristics of glass. Many boats,
airplanes, construction vehicles, buildings, and others have been using
non-glass windows for many years, often because they work *better* than
glass.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robert Chew wrote:
> Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before.
Sure! Lots of beginners try it. They fail, often rather dramatically.
(Help! I can't turn it off!)
There are basically two problems. First, car starter solenoid coils are
only designed for intermittent duty. The coil is only built to carry
current for a minute or less, and will burn up if powered continuously.
Second, the contacts have too little spacing when open. The spacing is
not enough to break a circuit with more than 30 volts or so across it.
Golf cart and some small industrial EV use car starter-like solenoids,
but with continuous-duty coils. They typically use them for switching
the lowest-voltage step, like the 18-volt step in a series/parallel
contactor controller with an 18- and 36v steps.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Robert Chew wrote:
> I want to charge my 72 volt battery pack made up of SCS225 12 volt
> Trojans, with separate 12 volt chargers. Can anyone detail the
> wiring setup, is it like connecting each battery to each battery
> terminal while they are all connected in series. I am using a cheap
> 12 volt battery charger 4amp rms output.
To use individual chargers, wire each one directly across its associated
battery. Make *sure* the charger's outputs are isolated!
Be advised that a 4amp charger is pretty small. It's going to take more
than a day for a full recharge. That "4 amp" rating is probably the peak
current into a dead battery; it will almost immediately taper back to 2
amps or less.
Be sure to include some means to know that all chargers worked so that
all batteries are charged *before* you go for a drive. Individual
chargers (especially cheap ones!) tend to fail, the driver doesn't know
it, and so drives off with one dead battery. The dead one is quickly
destroyed!
> The expense is killing me.
Then I wouldn't use individual chargers! A single larger 72v series
charger would be a much better choice.
The cheap-yet-good route is probably to get a used 36v golf cart
charger, and either rewire your 72v pack for 36v while charging, or
rewire the charger from a center-tapped 2-diode rectifier to a 4-diode
bridge rectifier to double its voltage to 72v.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Neon John wrote:
>
> I just got my portion of the Allbright contactor order (Thanks so
> much, Rick, for coordinating the buy).
>
> These are the ones with the 56 volt coils. Fortunately these are
> trivially easy to rewind for 12 volts. I'll have some info available
> on my web site in a day or two.
>
> If anyone else needs the rewinding done, I'll do one for $20 plus
> shipping, a little less for multiple coils. Contact me off-list if
> you're interested.
>
> Looking at this contactor disassembled, it just dawned on me that the
> contact assembly minus the solenoid would make a great non-electric
> emergency disconnect. I'll post some photos on that too in a couple
> of days.
>
> Now I have a question. Someone told me that these can be equipped
> with permanent magnet blowouts. Anyone have any info or photos of
> where the magnets go?
I have the contactors, though no photos. The blowout magnets go inside
the black bakelite top housing. One magnet on each side of the contact,
so they establish a magnetic field across them.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is the junk from AVS that I mentioned earlier in the yard not far
away. It looks a LOT better in the photos than it does up close. I'd
give some serious thought before I paid any serious money for this
stuff. This is the residue that he couldn't get rid of any other way.
John
On Wed, 5 Oct 2005 19:36:57 -0700, Shawn Rutledge
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>11 of them in one big lot. Would be interesting if any listers live
>nearby, could buy them and then resell parts, if the parts are useable
>on ordinary vehicles. If there are 2 motors per bus, maybe 1 motor is
>a decent size for a car or truck. And there's a capstone turbine
>involved too.
>
>On 10/5/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> ...with no reserve:
>>
>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4580089617
>>
>>
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Thu, 6 Oct 2005 05:55:59 -0700, "Rick Barnes"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Type: SW200A 56vdc CW 678-(Exclusively for Lucent Technologies) Coil
>Voltage: 56 V Continuous DC Coil Resistance: (Ohms) 182
>Pull In Voltage: 37 V Max.
>Drop Out Voltage: 15 V Max.
>Coil Power Dissipation: 17.23 Watts
>Additional Features:
>DIODE ON COIL, POSITIVE AT BOTTOM
>LUCENT PART NO: 407903244
>
>I am pretty sure the contact rating is 120VDC 250A continuous.
I believe this is correct. After being handed a clue yesterday :-) I
looked and found that these do indeed have blowout magnets already
installed up inside the Bakelite frame. Amazingly weak but I guess
that's all that is needed.
>
>I ordered a few extra when I placed the bulk order. Price $35 ea plus
>shipping.
>If there is demand, I can make another bulk purchase.
This is a superb deal, guys. I bought 8. Mine came packed new in the
box of 10 with two holes empty as they left the factory. Rick, if you
get another group buy together, put me down for another 4.
For anyone who needs a heavy duty reversing relay, 4 of these are
significantly cheaper and probably much more rugged than a reversing
relay of that amp class.
I can see about 6 of these ending up in my Citi. 4 for the reversing,
a pack disconnect and one for field weakening.
It's raining cats and dogs today so I should get to work in the shop
on the coil rewind. I'm helping a friend build a large metal building
when the weather is nice so this will be the first day off in awhile.
I'll have the first rewind done and instructions written up maybe by
tomorrow.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: Starter solenoid as a contactor
> That current rating is probably only good for 10 seconds or so, not
> continuous. If it's cheap enough, I suppose it could be tested by
> placing it in an existing EV in series with a normal EV contactor and
> seeing if it welds under load. Even so, I'd be concerned about it's max
> current breaking capability.
> Hi All;
Ya get what you pay for! Been there , done that 35 years ago, with the
same disapointing results. It's a sorta phaze of going through with an EV.
Problem, they will work long enough to get you reasonably comfortable, then
weld shut!They will lock on in traffic or some other close encounter. In my
early EV's I carried a hammer on the floor to whack the relay panel when
they stuck!!If that didn't work, eased up to a telephone pole or other
immovable object, so I could get out and disconnect something..fast! Now
this was on NEV sorta vehicles, NOT real hiway capable cars!
But I know a bit more now. Don't skimp on line switches! Get some of
these decent contacters being offered on the List. Don't lose the EV grin to
a grimace of horror as you can't STOP!
Seeya
Bob
> Robert Chew wrote:
>
> >HI all,
> >
> >Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one
at
> >the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks
very
> >beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a
lot
> >less than the contactors from Albright etc....
> >
> >Just want to know opinions
> >
> >Cheers
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I would also like one of these contactors. You can email me at
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Thanks Rich in Virginia
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Those Allbright contactors
> On Thu, 6 Oct 2005 05:55:59 -0700, "Rick Barnes"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>Type: SW200A 56vdc CW 678-(Exclusively for Lucent Technologies) Coil
>>Voltage: 56 V Continuous DC Coil Resistance: (Ohms) 182
>>Pull In Voltage: 37 V Max.
>>Drop Out Voltage: 15 V Max.
>>Coil Power Dissipation: 17.23 Watts
>>Additional Features:
>>DIODE ON COIL, POSITIVE AT BOTTOM
>>LUCENT PART NO: 407903244
>>
>>I am pretty sure the contact rating is 120VDC 250A continuous.
>
> I believe this is correct. After being handed a clue yesterday :-) I
> looked and found that these do indeed have blowout magnets already
> installed up inside the Bakelite frame. Amazingly weak but I guess
> that's all that is needed.
>
>>
>>I ordered a few extra when I placed the bulk order. Price $35 ea plus
>>shipping.
>>If there is demand, I can make another bulk purchase.
>
> This is a superb deal, guys. I bought 8. Mine came packed new in the
> box of 10 with two holes empty as they left the factory. Rick, if you
> get another group buy together, put me down for another 4.
>
> For anyone who needs a heavy duty reversing relay, 4 of these are
> significantly cheaper and probably much more rugged than a reversing
> relay of that amp class.
>
> I can see about 6 of these ending up in my Citi. 4 for the reversing,
> a pack disconnect and one for field weakening.
>
> It's raining cats and dogs today so I should get to work in the shop
> on the coil rewind. I'm helping a friend build a large metal building
> when the weather is nice so this will be the first day off in awhile.
> I'll have the first rewind done and instructions written up maybe by
> tomorrow.
>
> John
> ---
> John De Armond
> See my website for my current email address
> http://www.johngsbbq.com
> Cleveland, Occupied TN
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date: 10/5/2005
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It could be a dirty or loose connection causing an error condition to arise.
Maybe when things flex round in the driveline, a loose connection opens
momentarily and the controller gets upset.
Do you have the error LED installed? It connects to pins 9 (+) and 1 (-) on
the db25 connector. It will come on if the star/delta switch is open
(probably not used in your car), forward/reverse is in neutral or not
connected, motor is too hot, or there's a generic controller error.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Carefully look at the ratings. Most have momentary peak current
ratings with a much lower continuous current rating. The round metal
can solenoids are good for maybe 200 amps continuously. Larger
solenoids are available for commercial truck applications but then the
cost starts upward.
The other thing to be aware of is that "starter" solenoids' coils are
rated only for momentary duty and will burn out if left on
continuously, as many an RV owner has learned. The identical looking
solenoid rated for continuous service draws only 1 amp as opposed to
the 4 amps of the starter version.
The previous owner of my Citi made a reversing relay out of 4 such
continuous duty solenoids. They "work" but they get extremely hot
very quickly and after cutting one open for inspection, I have grave
concerns about the thing welding shut. These things consist of
nothing more than two copper studs bridged by a copper washer that
moves. A thin washer, I might add. These are coming out of my citi
just as fast as I can say "rewound allbrights" :-)
My final concern is the voltage withstand. The solenoid plunger is
connected to the washer and so is hot. there is but a tiny barrier of
plastic between the plunger and the bottom of the armature. OK for 12
volts but I'd not want to put 100+ volts on it.
John
On Thu, 6 Oct 2005 23:00:56 +1000, "Robert Chew"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>HI all,
>
>Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one at
>the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks very
>beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a lot
>less than the contactors from Albright etc....
>
>Just want to know opinions
>
>Cheers
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For some years, Renault has made electric and hybrid versions (called
the "Electri'cite" and "Elect'road") of its popular Kangoo
mini-minivan, although they haven't done much in terms of marketing
them. The Elect'road was a series hybrid with a single-speed internal
combustion "range extender".
When I was in Paris 2 weeks ago I called Renault to see if I
could see these vehicles, but they told me (assuming my French isn't
too bad) that they had decided to cancel their electric vehicle
program, and that neither of these vehicles would now be produced.
There's apparently another plug-in Kangoo hybrid design from Green
Propulsion, http://www.greenpropulsion.be/. I don't know anything
more about that one.
Paris apparently has at least one public recharging station -- all
around the Pantheon there are signs telling you that electric vehicle
recharging is available in the garage under Rue Soufflot.
Ken
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Noel,
It would be good if you can get this profile from them.
I'll ask too, but if you get it, could you please contact me
(ac_at_metricmind.com) and let me know?
Thank you in advance!
BTW, will Zivan program their charger for Ovonics' for you
if you ask them?
Victor
Noel P. Luneau wrote:
Hi Victor,
When I contacted Zivan USA they said they have a charging profile for
Ovonics. I'm hoping to have 15 of my 30 13.2v's in my Force.
Solectria must have the charging profile as they used them in the
Force for awhile. There is a document on the Internet when two
Forces, EV15 and EVHQ were tested. No charging profiles but
interesting reading.
I'll let you know if I can get the charger and controller
reprogrammed.
Noel
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
David Dymaxion wrote:
Now for the disagree part:
Look at White Zombie now, knocking on the 11's door! To first order,
AC and DC are pretty close in performance. Yes, the AC motor may rev
twice as high, but it'll only have 1/2 the torque then -- there is no
free lunch.
That means the tranny can be lighter (not so heavy duty) for AC system,
because there is no danger to break something with too high DC torque,
and still deliver the same hp.
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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--- Begin Message ---
Lee Hart wrote:
...
UL places no limits on what manufacturers can build, or on what they can
sell. They have no authority to do so. But, your local community may have
written local ordinances that *do* require "listed" electrical equipment.
Los Angeles and Chicago have done this.
Interesting. Is a "local community" being legal entity in the eyes of law?
What is definition of "local community".
If I build (convert) EVs for sale in my garage which is physically
located in this community (neighborhood, city) but my business
oficially registered (And lo located) in Delaware (where the sale
transaction happened from), do I care about local decisions?
(I really do, I mean legally).
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
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--- Begin Message ---
As far as I know, these things are not rated for continuous duty.
Victor
Robert Chew wrote:
HI all,
Has anyone used a car starter solenoid as a contactor before. I saw one at
the local auto shop the other day, 12V - 200A and that's it. It looks very
beefy at the terminals, weigh in at about 500grams. And cost a hell of a lot
less than the contactors from Albright etc....
Just want to know opinions
Cheers
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm not sure what one has to do with the other, however, if you want off
the EV Discussion List you have to unsubscribe yourself.
To sign off from the list, send and email to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
with the following in the body of the email:
unsubscribe EV
>
> We do have anti-virus software. So take us off your list!
>
> Bill & Sharon Hoopes
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>> [Original Message]
>> From: Peter VanDerWal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
>> Date: 10/6/2005 1:32:17 AM
>> Subject: Attn Eathlink Customer,you have a virus (was Re: Emailing:
> 655.html
>>
>> The email to the EVDL claiming to come from Sharron Hoopes was actually
>> from an Earthlink customer.
>>
>> If you have the following people in your email contacts, then you are
>> probably the one with the virus:
>>
>> "Chris & Christine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] (address edited to prevent
>> spam)
>> "Daniel Rivest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "Jerry & dors Labine" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "mischsteyla.com" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> "qof_4" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> If you don't have anti-virus software, or it's out of date, please get
>> up
>> to date anti-virus protection.
>> There is no excuse for not having anti-virus software, there are
>> numerous
>> free products available for home use.
>>
>> --
>> If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
>> junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever
>> I
>> wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
>> legalistic signature is void.
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Connected it up and it works fine. Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 1:08 AM
Subject: Re: DLS-55 ready to install.
The box is connected to the body of the car. LR........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 4:57 PM
Subject: RE: DLS-55 ready to install.
Are you somehow grounding ( earth ground) the body of the car?
If not, then you are at risk if there is a failure somewhere and the car
body becomes hot with respect to ground -- unless there is a GFI in the
power line to the charger - and, in the power line of every other piece
of equipment that has 120 or 240 AC fed to it.
I may have missed it, but why are you not using the ground line to ground
the box and car body?
Phil
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: DLS-55 ready to install.
Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2005 16:08:53 -0700
I've been using the DLS with AC power to keep the aux battery charged.
I've made up a plug and will use just the hot & neutral. No ground. The
DLS is mounted to the frame of the car. Any other concerns? I'm hooking
it up to the controller so it will be on while running the car. I may
unplug while charging and plug back into the ac line. There is going to
be a precharge resistor. I am going to hook that up to the bypass relay.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
They weigh 101 pounds each. It might be interesting to try them in a small
conversion. 10 of them would fit where 96v fit in a Volks Rabbit. About
the same weight 1000 pounds. Maybe a tad lighter by 70 pounds. A little
cheaper in price by thirty dollars. No watering. You'll need regulators
but only as many as you have batteries. Might be a good deal. Let us know.
Lawrence Rhodes...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 11:47 PM
Subject: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Quick update:
To get my US Electricar (converted S-10) on the road and help
a fellow EV to get his share of lead, I will be ordering my
batteries tomorrow (Thursday) morning with Universal Power.
My battery of choice is the UB121100 because of its 1-hour
80 Ah capacity (110Ah in 20h), 4 mOhm and its resilience to
full discharge and -last but not least- its interesting
price of $85 each including shipping in quantity.
If you want to join the bulk-order then give me a quick note
or better call me right away if you are in the SF Bay area,
the batteries will be delivered to Sunnyvale by Friday.
I can arrange for local transport within reason, as I am
not making a profit here - just busy getting my own truck
stocked up and helping another EV'er in the process to get
on the road with cheap batteries.
NOTE (disclaimer) that these batteries should work great in
an EV, because they are the best technology (AGM) to withstand
the vibration and shocks of an automotive environment. But they
have never (as far as I know) been tested in EVs, so they may
result in lower nr of cycles or other behaviour that results
in a shorter lifetime than the proven battery brands.
At less than half the price of the other brands, I am willing
to take that risk and test these batteries in my EV, but I
feel that it is not more than fair that I tell you both sides
of the story.
I am no sales man and have no interest in UB batteries, other
than getting a good price for my own purchase in a bulk buy.
I need a good price, because now I can have my batteries by
the end of this week, with the other brands I would still
be saving for a few more months an my EV be sitting idle.
These batteries will have 1-year warranty and 20% loss of
capacity qualifies as manufacturing defect (according the
sales rep).
I also asked if I needed to order all the same type batteries
and he said that I can order a mix, they all qualify for the
discount price and free shipping if its one order and one
address.
Examples of other types and prices:
Group 27 90 Ah (UB12900) $76
Group 24 75 Ah (UB12750) $62
UB12400 40Ah is one inch longer than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37
UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7" for $27
on the other end of the scale:
200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10" for $165
250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10" for $222
The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and
I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of
these batteries will precisely fill up the original box
designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers.
The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the
rear axle.
I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming
weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-)
Keep chargin'
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Fellows,
Since the vehicle speed and throttle control are part of
EVision already, naturally it is no brainer to implement
cruise control function.
The speed controlling output for AC systems is fixed 0-5V
voltage outputted by a DAC. I know, for DC systems
most controllers require 0-5k pot as throttle input
control rather than voltage.
Question 1: is 0 ohm being full throttle or 5k?
Question 2: do these controllers have isolated
input for throttle pot? How much current flows
through the 5k pot?
Since digipots' "wiper" does not provide as low
resistance as 0 ohm to its low or hi side, you
won't be able to set these extreme resistances,
but no one cruises at wide open throttle; usually
it will be somewhere in the middle.
Any other suggestions what the output for your speed
control can be?
Getting really close to produce first production
prototype now...
Thanks for the input,
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVeryone,
It's funny, now when there's a tour for students at work, they ask me to show
the electric car. I guess it's the trade for letting me use their electricity
to charge - they want something out of it :)
Today, 75 freshman engineering students came through. It's fun to see their
interest really perk while giving the talk on the car. I try to emphasize that
people can do great things if they set their mind to it.
Yet another PR success story.
-Ryan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The weight is actually 73 pounds. Or very close to a 6v golfcar battery
with twice the voltage. Two golfcar batteries will last about twice as
long.so they are a good choice it looks like. Not too much penalty compared
to golfcar batteries. Now this is just looking at the specs. Not tested in
the real world but it looks good. I couldn't read the discharge graph.
Lawrence Rhodes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 1:32 AM
Subject: RE: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Hi John
Here is the spec:
http://www.universalpowergroup.com/specs/D5751.pdf
So the energy density in Wh/kg for the most practical 1h rate
(80Ah) would be 80Ah x 12V / 33 kg = 1080 / 33 = 33 Wh/kg
These are new batteries, guaranteed the same date code for
the entire shipment (on request) and with the rate they sell
them (several thousand of this type in stock in TX) the
production date will be somewhere summer 2005.
1 Year manufacturers warranty.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of John Luck Home
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 12:30 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Hmmm - interesting choice. I too have been looking at replacement
batteries
and stumbled across some YUASA EN 160-6 at a very interesting price.
These have 105 A/H at the 1 hr rate (160 @ 10hr) and I.R of 1.2 milli
Ohms
are 6 volts - so I need 36 for my 216v package and weigh 35Kg a piece.
What is the energy density of the UB121100 ?
The only drawback I can see with the YUASAs at the moment is that they are
not brand new. They have been used in an emergency power situation and
been
on float charge for 2 years !!.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 7:47 AM
Subject: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Quick update:
To get my US Electricar (converted S-10) on the road and help
a fellow EV to get his share of lead, I will be ordering my
batteries tomorrow (Thursday) morning with Universal Power.
My battery of choice is the UB121100 because of its 1-hour
80 Ah capacity (110Ah in 20h), 4 mOhm and its resilience to
full discharge and -last but not least- its interesting
price of $85 each including shipping in quantity.
If you want to join the bulk-order then give me a quick note
or better call me right away if you are in the SF Bay area,
the batteries will be delivered to Sunnyvale by Friday.
I can arrange for local transport within reason, as I am
not making a profit here - just busy getting my own truck
stocked up and helping another EV'er in the process to get
on the road with cheap batteries.
NOTE (disclaimer) that these batteries should work great in
an EV, because they are the best technology (AGM) to withstand
the vibration and shocks of an automotive environment. But they
have never (as far as I know) been tested in EVs, so they may
result in lower nr of cycles or other behaviour that results
in a shorter lifetime than the proven battery brands.
At less than half the price of the other brands, I am willing
to take that risk and test these batteries in my EV, but I
feel that it is not more than fair that I tell you both sides
of the story.
I am no sales man and have no interest in UB batteries, other
than getting a good price for my own purchase in a bulk buy.
I need a good price, because now I can have my batteries by
the end of this week, with the other brands I would still
be saving for a few more months an my EV be sitting idle.
These batteries will have 1-year warranty and 20% loss of
capacity qualifies as manufacturing defect (according the
sales rep).
I also asked if I needed to order all the same type batteries
and he said that I can order a mix, they all qualify for the
discount price and free shipping if its one order and one
address.
Examples of other types and prices:
Group 27 90 Ah (UB12900) $76
Group 24 75 Ah (UB12750) $62
UB12400 40Ah is one inch longer than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37
UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7" for $27
on the other end of the scale:
200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10" for $165
250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10" for $222
The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and
I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of
these batteries will precisely fill up the original box
designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers.
The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the
rear axle.
I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming
weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-)
Keep chargin'
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.10/120 - Release Date:
05/10/2005
--- End Message ---
