EV Digest 4801
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Cruise control in EVision
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) wheels tires
by mike golub <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
by "Brown, Jay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) GhiaMonster builder on Monster Garage 10/10 and 10/11
by "Steve Marks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Crimp versus solder
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
by Andrew Letton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
by "Noel P. Luneau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) I'm Back & Looking for new hi-tech batteries
by "Jonathan \"Sheer\" Pullen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: Separate 12volt chargers
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: MILLI-ohm meter, was: Cable Crimping Tools
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by "Nick 'Sharkey' Moore" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
by Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Precharge resistor with DLS -55/controller.
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate and doughnuts.
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Precharge resistor with DLS -55/controller.
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: wheels tires
by Ryan Stotts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: wheels tires
by "Richard Rau" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Details of the Lee Hart Zener-Lamp regulator
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) article: =?windows-1252?Q?Honda=92s_E4-01_Concept_bike_=96?=
=?windows-1252?Q?_is_this_Honda=92s_electric_bike=3F?=
by Paul Wujek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: [Evtech] I'm Back & Looking for new hi-tech batteries
by Seth Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: EV digest 4800
by Mike Swift <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Solectria E-10 stalling
by Jacob <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: New Sparrows now $35,000
by Alan Batie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
> Have no idea what HEPA pedal is. Got link?
Scroll down to the "Hall Effect Pedal Assembly"
http://cafeelectric.com/products/accessories.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I read some stuff about the rolling resistance about
the tires, but I was thinking if I got some light
weight alloy rims, how much does that help with
efficiency?
Is there a formula?
Are those alloy rims just a cosmetic thing?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I actually have some (cough, cough, ...) experience with this little red
key. It didn't work to cutoff 48volts of Alltrax so I would HIGHLY
recommend against using it for anything above 12 volts. Luckily the
transmission (who am I kidding... it was the chain on my e-go-kart) was
disconnected at the time so it wasn't a runaway but rather more like a
fireworks show...
---------------------------------------------------------------------
Jay Brown
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 3:55 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: 12V parts misused, was: Re: Battery Isolator
At 06:46 AM 7/10/05 +1000, Robert Chew wrote:
>Hi all,,
>
>I bought a cheap battery isolator, looks like a big red key switch. Big
>terminsls. Rated at 200A continuous and 500A surge. It is for 12 volt
but I
>wanted it to have it in series with my battery string so that I can
pull the
>plug if something goes wrong.
So when you are down to your last chance and have to hit the big red
button, you bash it and hear an arcing noise and don't slow down
any.....
If it is rated for 12V, build a 12V EV. if you are building a 120V EV,
use
120V parts.
Using 12V parts on higher voltages is like using a piece of string as a
seatbelt or an empty coke bottle as a life preserver. May sort of work,
but
when you need it to do the job you put it there for, it ...well - does
the
job as it is designed!
Please make a safe EV, for the rest of us it's bad PR and depressing for
your next of kin if you don't.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I think I mentioned this awhile back but until just recently we didn't
have a very firm date on the event. Ron Lummus from Ron Lummus Racing,
the builder of the GhiaMonster as well as many other vehicles that are
doubtless more notable, is scheduled to be on an episode of Monster
Garage showing 10/10 and 10/11 on the Discovery Channel. The episode is
called "Sour Kraut: Jesse and a team of Volkswagen racers convert a 1951
convertible into a dragster".
Now, I have no way of confirming this but *supposedly* there's some
video that might get aired of Jesse admiring the GhiaMonster as he tours
Ron's garage.
Anyways, I thought I'd give everyone a heads up in case they're
interested in watching.
Steve
www.ghiamonster.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
No, but i can take one, I will find time to post it to the list as soon as
possible
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 11:04 PM
Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
> Philippe,
>
>
> Est-ce vous avez une photo de la truc?
>
> Merci,
>
> Rush
> Tucson AZ
> www.ironandwood.org
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Philippe Borges" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 12:47 PM
> Subject: Re: Cable Crimping Tools
>
>
> > my solution a cheap 2 tons (4500lbs) car lifting jack, after simple
> > modification, make the best quality/price hydraulic crimper :^)
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Eric Poulsen wrote:
> Someone on this list... said UL... is essentially a money-making
> scam... 2 power strips that both had UL ratings, yet one would
> overheat when subjected to higher currents, and the other would
> not...
It wasn't me. UL has their problems (very bureaucratic, slow to change,
etc.) but I wouldn't call them a scam. For one thing, they are a
non-profit corporation, and not owned or controlled by any manufacturers
or government agencies. I think they do their best under the
circumstances.
UL is an *independent* testing laboratory. They aren't the only one;
there are others (ETL etc.) but UL is the biggest and best known.
Let's say Rich Rudman wants to sell a charger to you. You don't require
UL listing, so he's not required to UL list it. It's perfectly legal to
sell it to you.
Now suppose he gets an order from the City of Chicago. They have a local
ordinance that says "all electrical equipment shall be 'listed' by an
independent testing laboratory." That means UL, ETL, or someone like
them.
So, Rich takes his charger to UL and says, "I want you to test my
charger, and 'list' it as a safe product." UL will charge him a fee
(like $1000) to test his product according to a standard set of tests.
If it passes they provide a written report, give him permission to put a
"UL listed" marking on the product, and 'list' his product in their
directory.
If it doesn't pass, they will tell him why, and provide guidelines for
what he has to do to make it pass. For instance they might say, "We
found that if the fan fails, it catches fire!" So Rich makes the
changes, and re-submits it (paying again to re-test). They go back and
forth until it passes.
Note that UL testing is only concerned with SAFETY -- not performance!
UL doesn't care if the product works; all that matters is that it won't
burn down your house or electrocute someone. So, a cheesy outlet strip
can be UL listed even though it fails after an hour of use. The UL
listing only means that it won't catch fire or electrocute you when it
fails!
The problem with this system is that compliance is voluntary.
Manufacturers often decide not to get UL listing rather than fix the
product's safety problems -- and they can still sell it almost anywhere.
Or, large manufacturers will tell UL "either you make your test easier
to pass, or we'll take our business elsewhere." So UL is subject to the
same competitive pressures as any business. This is how you get UL
listed toasters that are clearly shock and fire hazards.
--
Every act of conscious learning requires the willingness to suffer an
injury to one's self-esteem. That is why young children, before they
are aware of their own self-importance, learn so easily. - Thomas Szasz
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Now one way in which this may be useful is if you use it as a disconnect
that you actuate it ONLY at no load, for example to open the middle of a
battery pack when you want to service it.
...but I agree; if you expect it to open in an emergency, I fear you'll
be in for an exciting ride! (It is likely to arc and weld ON at high
voltage & high current.)
cheers,
Andrew
James Massey wrote:
At 06:46 AM 7/10/05 +1000, Robert Chew wrote:
Hi all,,
I bought a cheap battery isolator, looks like a big red key switch. Big
terminsls. Rated at 200A continuous and 500A surge. It is for 12 volt
but I
wanted it to have it in series with my battery string so that I can
pull the
plug if something goes wrong.
So when you are down to your last chance and have to hit the big red
button, you bash it and hear an arcing noise and don't slow down any.....
If it is rated for 12V, build a 12V EV. if you are building a 120V EV,
use 120V parts.
Using 12V parts on higher voltages is like using a piece of string as
a seatbelt or an empty coke bottle as a life preserver. May sort of
work, but when you need it to do the job you put it there for, it
...well - does the job as it is designed!
Please make a safe EV, for the rest of us it's bad PR and depressing
for your next of kin if you don't.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Anything for a fee I suppose. Just don't give them your real name :)
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: "Victor Tikhonov"<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: 10/6/05 12:20:31 PM
To: "ev@listproc.sjsu.edu"<ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Ovonic's NiMH battery info needed
This is cool and I suppose you can read off yopur Zivan what they
programmed in. But can they provide the same info just on the paper
(in electronic form is certainly OK too)?
Victor
Noel P. Luneau wrote:
> Hi Victor,
>
> Zivan said they would program a new one for me.
>
> Noel
--
Victor
'91 ACRX - something different
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, First of all, let me say that I'm back - did you all miss me?
Until fairly recently, both qm and my Rad2Go were reliable electric
transportation*, and I was too busy with other things to do much EV
work. However, in the last few weeks, the battery pack on QM has
declined in storage capacity and reliability enormously. First one
battery, then many dropped from 12 to 10 volts, as if dendrite formation
had shorted out cells.
For those of you not familiar with QM, it is a AC drive Honda Accord
that was powered by NiZn batteries known as 'Evercells'. The company
that made these is no longer in business, so I am looking for another
nickel-based pack as a replacement.
I would like to use either NiCad or NiMH - or possibly, if the price is
right, LiPoly or Lion. I'm budgeting about $8k for this pack
replacement, and I'd like to use something that's likely to last more
than three years.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
* = [it should be noted here that both have had downtime for various
repairs and replacements.. the Rad2Go has had the throttle assembly and
headlight replaced and the motor controller repaired. ]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 7 Oct 2005 at 6:45, Robert Chew wrote:
> The
> version I am looking at is the Projecta MC400 manual battery charger.
You'll be wasting your money.
Their website says this charger will provide "2700 mAmp Continupus [sic] at
12.0V." That's like trying to fill a Hummer gas tank through a juice box
straw.
This charger is way too small and feeble for your EV. It might be about the
right size for charging a wheelchair battery. Look at the downloadable
instruction manual: "For charging ... batteries between 20ah and 70ah."
They are being optimistic. A charger of this output is really suited only for
batteries in the 20-50ah range, and even that is stretching it.
The SCS225 is a 130 amp hour battery. If this charger could actually
maintain 2.7 amps the entire cycle, which I doubt, it would need 29 hours to
charge the SCS from 20% SOC to 80% SOC. Then it would take several
more hours to load in the top 20%.
I suspect you'd be close to 48 hours for a full charge - if indeed this poor
little
guy ever got there.
Even if you had that kind of patience, low current charging is NOT good for
lead batteries. They need something in the C/10 range for good cycle life.
For your SCS225s, that means 13 amps. I wouldn't charge them with a
charger capable of producing less than 10 amps at the start of the charge.
Besides, I don't recommend a manual charger of any power; your battery
deserves better.
If cost is paramount, I suggest you look for a couple of good used automatic
golf car chargers. Use one for each half of the pack.
Pardon my saying so - but even if you don't listen to me, you really should
listen to Lee Hart. He's an electrical engineer who's been building EVs for a
quarter century or more. He knows his stuff. When he says a 4 amp
charger (which is really only a 2.7 amp charger) is too small, he knows
whereof he speaks.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I too am converting a Porsche and echo the comments below. But in my case I'm
converting an '87 944, not a 911. The cost difference can be considerable, but
there are a few other differences too. The 944 is a front engine car, so when
you look at weight balance, you can put more up front without affecting the
geometry. In my case I plan on putting about one third of the traction pack
under the hood, another third in the back where the gas tank used to be, and
another third in the middle where the token back seat was. This will spread the
weight out instead of concentrating it in one place. The motor goes up front
where the ICE was. I will also put most of the electronics in the front,
weather proofed of course. We'll see how the space works. I'm keeping the
transaxle and clutch, as well as the power steering and air conditioning. I
wouldn't mind losing the power sterring, but a manaual rack has proven hard to
find and the power rack is already paid for. I'll be driving the !
power
steering pump and AC compressor with a small treadmill motor.
I'm actually picking up a second 944 this weekend. I found one with a blown
engine for under $1300. Keep in mind these are pretty aerodynamic cars without
a spec of rust. They are solid and will have no problem handling the extra
weight.
The reason I'm buying a second car is somewhat serendipitous (is that a word?)
I had the engine out of the first car, but have had no luck selling it. I'm
currently driving a Silverado that gets 15mpg. My wifes car is almost 10 years
old and seems to develop time and money consuming problems almost daily. What
I'll do is put the good engine in the new 944 and use it for my commuting while
I finish the EV. That alone will cut my gas use in half. My wife will drive the
truck, but she doesn't go very far, so it won't hurt as much. Then, when I get
my EV going, we can park the truck and drive the Porsches. After that we have
to pick a car to convert for her. Right now she favoring the new Beetles.
Good luck with the project.
Dave Cover
PS Rear wheel drive is FUN! Ever try and do doughtnuts in a snowy parking lot
with front wheel drive? Just can't do it!
David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 13:49:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Need advice on a Porsche conversion candidate
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
I'm in the process of converting a 1977 Porsche 911.
Here are some of my reasons:
Token rear seats.
Light, small, aerodynamic, big brakes, yet a good amount of room for
batteries.
RWD and rear weight bias will make for awesome launches.
Low center of gravity.
Fully adjustable suspension.
Good top speed for modest horsepower.
Race parts available for reasonable prices.
Enthusiast support groups.
Porsche started galvanizing about 1976 and 1/2, so 1977+ are much
more rust resistant. The 914's have a reputation for rust problems.
The 911 (and 914) tranny both have a good reputation for being tough.
Kit car guys hook V8 engines to them.
Beautiful and classic car that you can be proud of and get parts for
for 30 years.
Holds its value better than other Porsches (although converting to
electric would admittedly probably drop its value).
Good idea to convert a car you emotionally love.
You can remove alot of weight. The 2.7 engine is about 450 pounds!
Street legal special editions of older 911s were under 2000 lbs.
The motor is very expensive to rebuild, so that helps your bargaining
power a bit.
Most cars you worsen the weight distribution when converting (car
becomes more tail heavy). In this case you'd probably make the car
less tail heavy.
Now for some downsides:
911 is expensive. I feel I got a real steal on mine at $4200 (very
good condition body and interior, complete, but not running). I saw a
couple of horribly rusted out older ones for that much. I have seen a
car on the web with no engine, no tranny, no doors, and they still
were asking $8k!
RWD and rear weight bias makes for less safe street handling.
More expensive insurance.
I'm tall, and the car is a little smaller than ideal for me. Putting
in race seats will fix that problem.
With the Targa, I'd suggest welding in a roll cage to help strengthen
the car against the additional battery weight. This is a reason I
went with a hard top.
Random thoughts:
You should consider looking at 912's, they are much cheaper, yet the
same as a 911 except for fewer gauges and the motor. Watch for rust.
I think the best 911 to get is the 1977+ 911 with the 2.7 motor --
these were still fairly light, and the 2.7 motor is known for some
problems, so the cars aren't as popular and cost less.
--- "David (Battery Boy) Hawkins" wrote:
> All,
> Egads, my boy seems set on convertin an expensive forn car! He is
> currently
> (pun intended) looking at a 1987 Porsche 911 Carrera Targa with a
> bad
> engine (which unfortunately has already been removed). My boy's
> aunt is
> involved with the Porsche Club of America and has suggested a
> 924/944/928
> model, as they are a lot less expensive (and I like the hatchback
> models as
> far as battery installation!). So, before my boy spends thousands
> of
> dollars (and I spend hundred(s) of hours on another conversion),
> can anyone
> that has done a Porsche comment on the 911 model, compared to
> Otmar's (
> http://evcl.com/914/ 914 with a 930 Turbo transaxle and a limited
> slip
> differential), or a 924/944/928 model. Of course, I'll also scan
> the EVDL
> photo album to contact people that might not be on the list.
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 6, 2005, at 1:52 AM, John Luck Home wrote:
My guess is that if you rig up your millivoltmeter across any of your
inter
battery connections whilst your EV is accelerating it will show a small
number of millivolts across the two ends of the interconnecting leads.
If
you also know the current being drawn then you can calculate the
resistance
of the suspect lead using ohms law.
Yes! My preferred way to look for cables or connections developing
resistance is to get my pack charging. I check the amps and then from
center of post to center of post. I then calculate the total resistance
(cable plus battery terminal connection) with the fact that the voltage
I found divided by the amps at that time equal the resistance of the
battery interconnect.
If any connection looks worse than the others I redo the post to cable
connections. If it doesn't improve then I have to suspect the cable.
None of my the hex crimped cables (with sealant lined heat shrink over
them) look bad after 6 years. One pair of battery connections (either
end of an interconnect) had to be redone a couple of years ago. Gotta
love AGM batteries.
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 2005-10-06, David Dymaxion wrote:
>
> Most cars you worsen the weight distribution when converting (car
> becomes more tail heavy). In this case you'd probably make the car
> less tail heavy.
[...]
> RWD and rear weight bias makes for less safe street handling.
You could correct this pretty easily by putting some of the lead
up front, though, couldn't you? I've never looked under the hood
of such a thing, but I'm assuming there's luggage space up there
in the nose ...
-----sharks
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry I wasn't totally clear there. The Porsche 911 is normally a
front/rear 40/60 weight bias. There looks to be room in front for
about 12 orbitals, more if you stack them. So it should be no problem
keeping the rear to 60% or less of the weight.
This is in contrast to a small front wheel drive car, where you don't
have much room up front, but you have a bunch in back, so the car
goes from a 60/40 weight distribution to a 40/60 weight distribution
because you can put more batteries in the back of the car.
--- Nick 'Sharkey' Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 2005-10-06, David Dymaxion wrote:
> >
> > Most cars you worsen the weight distribution when converting (car
> > becomes more tail heavy). In this case you'd probably make the
> car
> > less tail heavy.
> [...]
> > RWD and rear weight bias makes for less safe street handling.
>
> You could correct this pretty easily by putting some of the lead
> up front, though, couldn't you? I've never looked under the hood
> of such a thing, but I'm assuming there's luggage space up there
> in the nose ...
>
> -----sharks
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 6, 2005, at 3:42 PM, Dave Cover wrote:
PS Rear wheel drive is FUN! Ever try and do doughtnuts in a snowy
parking lot with front wheel drive? Just can't do it!
Sure you can - use the parking brake.
--
Doug Weathers
Bend, OR, USA
http://learn-something.blogsite.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
101 pounds is the shipping weight. LR.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
What weighs 101 lbs?
According to Universal Batteries' website, the UB121100 weighs 72.75 lbs.
They weigh 101 pounds each. It might be interesting to try them in a
small
conversion. 10 of them would fit where 96v fit in a Volks Rabbit. About
the same weight 1000 pounds. Maybe a tad lighter by 70 pounds. A little
cheaper in price by thirty dollars. No watering. You'll need regulators
but only as many as you have batteries. Might be a good deal. Let us
know.
Lawrence Rhodes...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 11:47 PM
Subject: AGM battery bulk order: $85 for 110Ah 12V
Quick update:
To get my US Electricar (converted S-10) on the road and help
a fellow EV to get his share of lead, I will be ordering my
batteries tomorrow (Thursday) morning with Universal Power.
My battery of choice is the UB121100 because of its 1-hour
80 Ah capacity (110Ah in 20h), 4 mOhm and its resilience to
full discharge and -last but not least- its interesting
price of $85 each including shipping in quantity.
If you want to join the bulk-order then give me a quick note
or better call me right away if you are in the SF Bay area,
the batteries will be delivered to Sunnyvale by Friday.
I can arrange for local transport within reason, as I am
not making a profit here - just busy getting my own truck
stocked up and helping another EV'er in the process to get
on the road with cheap batteries.
NOTE (disclaimer) that these batteries should work great in
an EV, because they are the best technology (AGM) to withstand
the vibration and shocks of an automotive environment. But they
have never (as far as I know) been tested in EVs, so they may
result in lower nr of cycles or other behaviour that results
in a shorter lifetime than the proven battery brands.
At less than half the price of the other brands, I am willing
to take that risk and test these batteries in my EV, but I
feel that it is not more than fair that I tell you both sides
of the story.
I am no sales man and have no interest in UB batteries, other
than getting a good price for my own purchase in a bulk buy.
I need a good price, because now I can have my batteries by
the end of this week, with the other brands I would still
be saving for a few more months an my EV be sitting idle.
These batteries will have 1-year warranty and 20% loss of
capacity qualifies as manufacturing defect (according the
sales rep).
I also asked if I needed to order all the same type batteries
and he said that I can order a mix, they all qualify for the
discount price and free shipping if its one order and one
address.
Examples of other types and prices:
Group 27 90 Ah (UB12900) $76
Group 24 75 Ah (UB12750) $62
UB12400 40Ah is one inch longer than the 35Ah Hawkers - $37
UB12350 35Ah is 7.7 x 5.1 x 7" for $27
on the other end of the scale:
200Ah 12V is 20.5 x 8.1 x 10" for $165
250Ah 12V is 20.5 x 10.5 x 10" for $222
The battery I will be running is the Group 30 UB121100 and
I will have a small secondary battery box welded as 22 of
these batteries will precisely fill up the original box
designed for 52x 35Ah Hawkers.
The remaining 4 will go in this shallow box behind the
rear axle.
I'll let you know the progress and photos in the coming
weeks, just to add to the traffic on this list ;-)
Keep chargin'
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
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I get a big zorch everytime I plug in the DLS-55. It will play hell with my
contactor letalone the controller. The Precharge is already 750 ohm 25watt
200 volt. How much more resistor for the snap, crackle & pop of the 55 amp
dc/dc. It really did leave a weld on the ring connector I used to test it.
Lawrence Rhodes
Bassoon/Contrabassoon
Reedmaker
Book 4/5 doubler
Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
415-821-3519
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Find a large parking lot and put it in reverse.
High school driving techniques 101 in Ohio :-)
Rod
--- Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Oct 6, 2005, at 3:42 PM, Dave Cover wrote:
>
> > PS Rear wheel drive is FUN! Ever try and do
> doughtnuts in a snowy
> > parking lot with front wheel drive? Just can't do
> it!
>
> Sure you can - use the parking brake.
>
> >
> --
> Doug Weathers
> Bend, OR, USA
> http://learn-something.blogsite.org
>
>
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try this,
http://www.ametherm.com/Data%20Sheets/SL12%2090101.pdf
900 ohms at 25 degrees Celcius, much lower at higher
temps.
Allow a second or so before closing the main
contactor.
--- Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I get a big zorch everytime I plug in the DLS-55.
> It will play hell with my
> contactor letalone the controller. The Precharge is
> already 750 ohm 25watt
> 200 volt. How much more resistor for the snap,
> crackle & pop of the 55 amp
> dc/dc. It really did leave a weld on the ring
> connector I used to test it.
> Lawrence Rhodes
> Bassoon/Contrabassoon
> Reedmaker
> Book 4/5 doubler
> Electric Vehicle & Solar Power Advocate
> 415-821-3519
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
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mike golub wrote:
> Are those alloy rims just a cosmetic thing?
Forged aluminum wheels are much lighter then typical stock cast
aluminum ones. Light weight wheels help with acceleration and
braking.
Imagine something very heavy that was spinning and you were going to
attempt to stop it with your hands. Now imagine if it was extremely
light.
Same goes for getting a heavy wheel up to speed fast or getting a
light one up to speed fast.
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Mike,
Most alloy rims are heavier than the pressed steel stockers. Yes, for equal
volume comparison, aluminum is much lighter than steel, but to make a
strong enough alum rim you need much more of it. The only 'light' alloy
rims are made for racing and they cost a bundle.
The only efficiency difference you would see is during acceleration, not
during steady speed cruising. Calculating efficiency differences for
rotating masses under acceleration is way beyond me.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of mike golub
Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 2:19 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: wheels tires
I read some stuff about the rolling resistance about
the tires, but I was thinking if I got some light
weight alloy rims, how much does that help with
efficiency?
Is there a formula?
Are those alloy rims just a cosmetic thing?
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
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I was going to e-mail off line, but I think this may be of interest to a variety of people: Lee, I am really impressed with the elegance of the zener-lamp battery regulator (while understandfing its limitations.) I'm going to make a few for a variety of uses as a first step. My question is this: should the zeners be sunk down into the lug/heatsinks? Or should ithey protrude somewhat? I'm thinking that completely encasing it in epoxy would probably be best for heat sink purposes, but since I actually have no idea what I'm doing, I thought I'd ask. Also - are there any picture of the completed units on the net anywhere for viewing?
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Possible Honda EV bike:
http://www.gizmag.com/go/4712/
--
Paul Wujek ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
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$8000 will get you about 19 6V Saft NiCads of 100Ah capacity. But there
might be other options from them. Did Lawrence Rhodes sell his 40Ah
nicads?
GP makes nice NIMH. They might even be cheaper than SAFT. In a variety
of EV sized from 10Ah to 80 and 100Ah. Ocean freight won't be cheap,
but at least you don't have to do the Panama canal.
Seth
On Oct 6, 2005, at 6:20 PM, Jonathan "Sheer" Pullen wrote:
Well, First of all, let me say that I'm back - did you all miss me?
Until fairly recently, both qm and my Rad2Go were reliable electric
transportation*, and I was too busy with other things to do much EV
work. However, in the last few weeks, the battery pack on QM has
declined in storage capacity and reliability enormously. First one
battery, then many dropped from 12 to 10 volts, as if dendrite
formation
had shorted out cells.
For those of you not familiar with QM, it is a AC drive Honda Accord
that was powered by NiZn batteries known as 'Evercells'. The company
that made these is no longer in business, so I am looking for another
nickel-based pack as a replacement.
I would like to use either NiCad or NiMH - or possibly, if the price is
right, LiPoly or Lion. I'm budgeting about $8k for this pack
replacement, and I'd like to use something that's likely to last more
than three years.
Any and all suggestions welcome.
* = [it should be noted here that both have had downtime for various
repairs and replacements.. the Rad2Go has had the throttle assembly and
headlight replaced and the motor controller repaired. ]
_______________________________________________
Evtech mailing list
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://mailman.evtech.org/mailman/listinfo/evtech
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I had the same response. Yahoo always gets the adds out even if
nothing else. What is a "Group_Check" ?
On Oct 6, 2005, at 2:15 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: Nick Austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: October 6, 2005 1:49:26 PM PDT
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: exploded battery
On Wed, Oct 05, 2005 at 07:15:13PM -0600, Tim Humphrey wrote:
I snapped some pics last night of the battery that I had explode.
It blew up a couple years ago, so the pic makes it seem in a lot
worse shape
(older) than it was at the time. It actually was only a year old
when it blew.
It is at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ev/lst?&.dir=/exploded+battery
http://tinyurl.com/cp3as
Stay Charged!
Hump
I get the following when attempting to view this image:
Error
GROUP_CHECK
gpg5.bc.scd.yahoo.com:GROUP_CHECK
Fortunately, they did manage to serve a full screen advertisement
with this
error message :)
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David, I do not have this on my E-10. I wonder if it's something I can buy
at an electronics store or something I need to buy from Solectria. The other
thing is E-10's have 2 controllers and thus 2 db25's. How would you connect
that up?
Jacob Harris
> From: David Roden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Thu, 06 Oct 2005 12:30:55 -0400
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Subject: Re: Solectria E-10 stalling
>
> It could be a dirty or loose connection causing an error condition to arise.
> Maybe when things flex round in the driveline, a loose connection opens
> momentarily and the controller gets upset.
>
> Do you have the error LED installed? It connects to pins 9 (+) and 1 (-) on
> the db25 connector. It will come on if the star/delta switch is open
> (probably not used in your car), forward/reverse is in neutral or not
> connected, motor is too hot, or there's a generic controller error.
>
>
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> EV List Assistant Administrator
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation,
> or switch to digest mode? See how: http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Note: mail sent to the "from" address above may not reach me. To
> send me a private message, please use evdl at drmm period net.
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Ryan Stotts wrote:
$35,000 is sports car money. This vehicle is hardly performance
oriented.
Actually, it was quite peppy. Still not worth $35K, except to someone
who has that kind of money to sink into a toy, but it did have the
juice. Of course, that might also be why my belt only lasted 3K miles
;-) (though I didn't normally hot rod it either)
--
NOTE TO OUTLOOK USERS: Some versions of Outlook have a bug in
dealing with digitally signed email like the one you're now reading:
when replying, before clicking Send, go to the Tools menu and make
sure that "Digitally Sign" is not checked (unless you actually
have a digital certificate, but most people don't yet --- see
https://www.thawte.com/email/ for information on getting one and
why you should. Feel free to ask me for help!).
Alan Batie
The freedom to be or do only what others approve is no freedom at all
Freedom only has meaning if you apply it to things you disapprove of
smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME Cryptographic Signature
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