EV Digest 4809
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: DC to DC
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) RE: Battery Equaliser
by "stU" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Tidalforce letter to dealers
by Ken Trough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by "STEVE CLUNN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Battery Equaliser
by "Tim Stephenson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
9) Re: Any life in old forklift nicads?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Battery Equaliser
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: happieness is 36,000 watts
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Battery Equaliser
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "David Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) UNSUBSCRIBE
by "Alex Joel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: Suggestions on new Force
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Challenging Drive
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: Challenging Drive
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Battery Equaliser
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Bracket Racing White Zombie to a 12.151 @ 106.25 mph World Re cord!
by Tim Humphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: DC to DC
by "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Michaela Merz wrote:
Hello everybody:
I am looking for a nice (= powerful) DC-to-DC solution for input voltages
between 120 V and 156 V, output >200w
Define "nice" a bit better. $359 250W DCDC250/144/14 may be
your good choice, see http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
ADX-2 was advertised in the 1950's.
Claimed that the National Bureau of Standards and the US Navy used and
endorsed it.
Total fraud.
stU
(I think that it was baking soda.)
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:49 AM
To: 'ev@listproc.sjsu.edu'
Subject: Battery Equaliser
Has anyone used this stuff? Does it really work?
http://www.batteryequaliser.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
All,
I want to apologize for my email and pictures I
intended solely for Rush. I am new to the site and
did not realize that when I select "reply" the email
is addressed to the address in "to". Oh well, too
late now.
To answer your questions James, I did test the switch.
In racing you have to be able to disconnect a runaway
motor in the event of a crash (a short will blow the
fuse). I tested it several times at a minimum of 300
amps, 144 volts. There was a nice blue arc every
time, just as one would expect - unless you have it
submerged in a non conductive/inert gas or liquid.
The switch performed well after the tests and I have
been using it for 12 years. (You can see the vehicle
at http://www.dm3electrics.com/ the switch is sticking
out of the hood - driver side.) There was carbon
arcing but the area was easily cleaned.
As I told Rush (and everybody else unfortunately), I
did not invent this switch, it has been around for
many years. I have a 1981 Jet Electrica and a very
small version of this was used as the emergency cut
off, the contact area is no bigger than your finger
tip. In that application the toggle was hot. I can
send you (james) a picture of it if you like.
Also, my arc welder is much messier down at its lowest
setting (20amps).
The pictures were of the basic contact portion the
builder can add springs and limits as needed. If this
switch is used, surround it with an insulating box or
shroud.
Sorry again all,
Jimmy
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Jimmy, Rush and all
>
> At 09:30 PM 9/10/05 -0700, Jimmy Argon wrote:
> >Rush,
> >This is one of those parts I cant afford and build
> >better ones myself. I attached photos of a switch
>
> Jimmy, it would have been better to send those pics
> direct to Rush, but
> seeing as you didn't I guess you've left yourself
> open to comments. I don't
> mean to be rude, but have you fully tested this
> switch to the limits of
> your comment?
>
> >that can handle hundreds of volts and amps.
>
> Um.. hundreds of volts and amps? Have you tried to
> break one of these
> switches at, say 48V and 100A? (wear shaded glasses
> and have another means
> to disconnect - think "arc welding"). Once you have
> succesfully broken that
> voltage and current, please let us know, and keep
> upping the voltage until
> you reach Rush's 180V and break a couple of hundred
> amps.
>
> > I've had people
> >laugh at it but there were many race cars I beat
> ><snip>you can build a switch that is very reliable.
>
> I can see that it would be great at up to 24V and
> 100A or so. But Rush
> needs a switch as an emergency breaker for 180volts
> in a system that can
> deliver hundreds of amps, at that voltage.
>
> Be safe
>
> James
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is battery management and chargers available? Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
Hi All,
If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
There is no detectable performance difference between these
and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
Few photos:
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
time to get them and initially cycle them.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is the letter sent to TidalForce dealers last Friday (as posted on
the TidalForce MSN forum at 4pm today).
Dear TidalForce Dealer:
With regret we announce that effective October 7th 2005, WaveCrest is
suspending sales of its TidalForce product line in North America. We
will fulfill confirmed bike orders and will continue to provide warranty
and customer service support to existing customers. As a reminder,
WaveCrest’s warranty policy states that shipment expense to and from
WaveCrest’s repair facility in Dulles is the
customer’s responsibility. In addition, dealers should remind
customers that proof of purchase from an authorized TidalForce dealer is
required to validate warranty coverage. We thank all of our TidalForce
dealers and riders for their support and patronage.
TidalForce’s parent company, WaveCrest Labs, will continue to focus on
development of world-class electric propulsion systems for vehicles and
other applications.
For questions about your pending product orders, please call WaveCrest
at 703.435.7102 and ask for Linda Fortney at extension 195.
For questions about your pending warranty or customer service repair
please call WaveCrest at 703.435.7102 and ask for Customer Service.
For other questions about TidalForce or WaveCrest please call me at the
number listed below.
Thank you,
Kay Parry
Vice President
WaveCrest
703.435.7102
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack? I'm
working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50" dixie chopper , and it
looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run .
steve clunn
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and were
unsuccessful,
Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after some
good local press and it crashed.
It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com
Shawn Lawless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just got off the phone with the owner of the company - quite a pleasant,
knowledgeable, and together-sounding fellow. He's going to send me some info
which I'll post if applicable.
'Til now they've had their major focus on the industrial/military/RV/boating
markets. They have an intriguing foot-in-the-door recycling program going
on: they take in "dead" forklift batteries (especially interesting to me),
treat them with this additive, recharge them on a tricky recharger they've
invented, and sell them back at half-new prices with a very attractive
warranty policy. As a marketing trick it's slick - the company gets good
performance for years more than expected, and then decides to start buying
the additive themselves so as to keep their *own* batteries in service
longer. Of particular interest was his remark that charging goes faster, and
that the savings the companies get on charging while using the additive was
plenty enough to pay for the additive. If that's true, any improvements in
lifespan would effectively be "free".
See also http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/9/14/222010/299 (a fellow was
pleased with the results).
The "class of ingredient" is Cadmium Sulfate (< 1%): the Australia site has
the MSDS online (http://www.batteryequaliser.com.au/assets/bemsds.pdf.
However, the work came from a doctoral dissertation from a fellow in the UK
(the guy has a triple PhD), and it's patented, so there's probably a lot
more to it than a simple MSDS entry would indicate. I think he said that the
stuff does its magic for NiCads as well as Lead-Acid types (I'll let you
know when I get his info).
Considering some of their customers, I'm certainly interested. Now all I
need to do is get an EV.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:49 AM
Subject: Battery Equaliser
> Has anyone used this stuff? Does it really work?
>
> http://www.batteryequaliser.com
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/124 - Release Date: 10/7/05
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I didn't seem to get Victor's original message. Are there specs for these
somewhere? Max current draw? Charging info?
thanks,
Steve
In a message dated 10/10/2005 7:50:14 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Is battery management and chargers available? Lawrence Rhodes.......
----- Original Message -----
From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
> Hi All,
>
> If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
> I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
> so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
> need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
> GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
> more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
>
> Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
> in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
> There is no detectable performance difference between these
> and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
>
> 13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
>
> Few photos:
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
> http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
>
> Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
> time to get them and initially cycle them.
>
> Victor
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Oct 2005 at 10:49, Evan Tuer wrote:
> You have to pay to get rid of the Saft ones as well.
In most cases, it makes more sense to send them back to Saft and have them
rebuilt. That is, unless you're Ford and you want to destroy a bunch of
Think City EVs. :-(
Speaking of such things, I'm pretty sure that Ford crushed some Thinks
before repatriating some of them to Norway. I wonder what happened to the
nicads that Ford removed from them. I sure HOPE they didn't crush them with
the nicads still onboard!
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 10 Oct 2005 at 23:24, Tim Stephenson wrote:
> They have an intriguing foot-in-the-door recycling program going on:
> they take in "dead" forklift batteries (especially interesting to me), treat
> them with this additive, recharge them on a tricky recharger they've invented,
> and sell them back at half-new prices with a very attractive warranty policy.
Reminds me of a local battery store. I've gotten a few golf car batteries
from them over the years. These guys do a big trade in "reconditioned"
batteries for the big old ICE beaters that populate the neighborhood around
their store. The usually get one-third to one-half the new price.
One day when I was up there, the guy who was waiting on me sold such a
battery to another customer. After the customer left, I asked him, "So -
just what DO you do to a battery to recondition it?"
Without batting an eye, the tech said, "We charge it."
> The "class of ingredient" is Cadmium Sulfate (< 1%)
Many years ago, certainly back in the 1960s and 1970s, local discount
stores' auto departments used to sell "battery rejuvenator" snake oil called
VX-6 with that same stuff in it. It came in a little bottle maybe 10 cm
tall and cost a few bucks, maybe $3 or $4, IIRC. It was even dyed the same
color, pink or red.
As I understand it, somehow cadmium sulfate binds to the crystalline lead
sulfate that won't take part in the charging reaction, and precipitates it
out. (No, I don't know how this works.) This doesn't add any real capacity
to the battery, but it may temporarily reduce its internal resistance.
The usual "proof" that it worked: turn on your headlights until the battery
is dead. Now shut them off, and go pour in your VX-6. Wait a few minutes.
Now try to start your car. Presto! Look at all that new energy the VX-6
gave your battery!
Of course - as all EVers know ;-) - a "flat" lead battery left to its own
devices for a few minutes will "regain" some charge, quite possibly enough
to start an ICE. But this "proof" sure made the stuff look good, and
gullible customers bought it.
I wouldn't put it in a good battery, but it can't hurt much in one that's
already kaputt. One thing to be aware of, though. Even in such small
quantities as this, cadmium is nasty stuff. There is a recycling system in
place for nickel cadmium batteries, of course. However, from what I
understand, the lead battery recycling industry has no facilities for
handling this kind of heavy metal impurity. You may be (note that I say
MAY be) creating a disposal problem when you dose a lead battery with
cadmium sulfate.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rich is not limited by a household limit. He is on the 100 amp 208 feed.
There is a 200 amp feed about four feet to the left. He needs a different
transformer to use that feed. The present transformer is rated for only 90
amps.
Who is wasting the heat? It has been in the 40's at night here for the last
couple weeks. The heat feels good at night. The big chargers are not tested
in the day time. It gets too hot in the shop.
Goldie has a 75 amp charger wiring limit. The car needs bigger wire and
bigger connectors. I understand the wire is on hand and the 750 amp charge
port connectors are on order. I don't know how fast or how far someone
should drive with the grid still connected. I don't know if NEDRA has a
class for grid powered cars.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Apollonio" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2005 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: happieness is 36,000 watts
> Ah, it's a good day when a man's charging capabilities are limited by
> his household's available power instead of his battery charger.
> Although, with that much power on hand, why waste it heating your shop?
> Get a big extension cord and take Goldie for a spin :) Set some NEDRA
> records for fastest grid-powered EV. Bob Rice would probably challenge
> that, but locomotives are rather difficult to drag race...
>
> > Yea... a pile of Nichrome Glowing hot... I have to get some shots of
> > the shop at night with the 75K clocking at 1/2 snort.
> >
> > This is real close to 3 Bucks a hour of Grid power.
> >
> > The whole shop was jumping up about 1.5 Degrees a minute.
> >
> > Clearly the power stage is hanging in there.
> >
> > The power bench marks are falling one by one....
> >
> > Madman is having a good time in R&D....
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:34 PM 10/10/05 -0700, Jimmy wrote:
To answer your questions James, I did test the switch.
In racing you have to be able to disconnect a runaway
motor in the event of a crash (a short will blow the
fuse). I tested it several times at a minimum of 300
amps, 144 volts. There was a nice blue arc every
time, just as one would expect - unless you have it
submerged in a non conductive/inert gas or liquid.
The switch performed well after the tests and I have
been using it for 12 years. (You can see the vehicle
at http://www.dm3electrics.com/ the switch is sticking
out of the hood - driver side.)
Hi Jimmy - and all.
How big is it? There was no frame of reference in the photos apart from the
welding. If it is capable of that performance, then it must be
substantially bigger than I picture it to be. The photos on your web site
are not clear enough to get a real idea of the size, but I can see from the
slot in the hood that it must be quite big.
I pictured something that would be good for a 12V system, and your comment
about 'beating other racers' to me implied ICE racing.
Could you give more detail on what it is made from? [please don't say
something like "an XYZ from Home Depot" since the nearest Home Depot is
several thousand miles away for me]. It is the type of home-made gadgetry
that appeals to me, and if it works reliably and safely, then great!
Regards
James
[1978 Daihatsu 1300kg cab/chassis truck under conversion to electric]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
BTW:
Regarding "zappers"... "pulsers"... whatever.
I'd mentioned these awhile ago... like many, I am quite skeptical of
their claims. I'd said I was about to try one out but I soon realized
my protoboard would not work properly with the currents involved and
shelved it for awhile.
I'm trying it out with a more proper prototype soldered board. It's got
acceptable power bus traces and all. I used a current-based PWM
circuit I drew up that is FAR more appropriate for the job.
I found the switching losses in the pkgs I chose were getting them
warmer than initially anticipated and it limited my pulse current to I
think 5 amps. The way the inductor's being utilized it sharply
transitions from charge to discharge and vice versa so it's basically 10
amps peak-to-peak. It is powered off the test battery itself.
That battery was dead and no longer accepted a charge. It's a 12v
sealed gel cell UPS battery and a load of an amp or so dropped it to 9v,
putting it on 15v and it only took a few hundred mA.
I didn't have the chance to leave it on for too long, but after an hour
or two of running the pulser it seemed much better on charge acceptance,
taking in a couple of amps at 15v. This might be explained by the fact
that the pulser is not 100% efficient and ran it down some. I had to
leave on a trip soon after and haven't gotten back to it- I need some
bigger FET pkgs and heat sinks to do this right. But I look forward to
exploring the concept further.
Danny
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Victor,
Where are you located? For shipping purposes and how would go about setting up
the sale?
Thanks David
----- Original Message -----
From: Victor Tikhonov<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
Hi All,
If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
There is no detectable performance difference between these
and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
Few photos:
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg>
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg>
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg>
Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
time to get them and initially cycle them.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
-----Original Message-----
From: David Williams [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 3:47 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
Hello Victor,
Where are you located? For shipping purposes and how would go about
setting up the sale?
Thanks David
----- Original Message -----
From: Victor Tikhonov<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
Hi All,
If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
There is no detectable performance difference between these
and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
Few photos:
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/
nimh1.jpg>
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/
nimh2.jpg>
http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg<http://www.metricmind.com/misc/
nimh3.jpg>
Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
time to get them and initially cycle them.
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Steve,
I don't know what motors or arrangement you are planning but I think
your 150 amps is very conservative.
I am turning a 3 blade 42" deck. At 8mph and 13,000 FPM blade speed I
am only drawing an average of about 1/2 of that (3-4K) on a modest cut.
Most of my land is very flat with only a few steep hills
We are using 8 pcs 12 volt - 100 amp-hr AGM batteries from Northstar
with 2pcs 4 bank chargers.
Two parallel banks for 48 volt 200 amp power. The Northstars give us a
lot of lead in a relatively small package.
I have been cutting my lawn (3 acres) and have found that for my
personal use, we have PLENTY of battery. When it was relatively dry
last month I cut the entire lawn and only lost one LED on the battery
meter. That day I probably could have covered 8 acres without stopping.
Even when the grass was thick and heavy earlier in the year I cut 3
acres and still had a good reserve. On large open space you will do
better than me with your 50" rather than with my puny 42" cut. It's the
overlap that really adds up to wasted power.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack?
I'm working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50" dixie chopper
, and it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run .
steve clunn
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and
were > unsuccessful,
Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after
some > good local press and it crashed.
It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com
Shawn Lawless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Noel, both my Forces had non-functional A/C systems when they
arrived. Both were simply too low on Freon, (R-134a) to function. R-134a
is much more prone to leaking out than the older R-12 units were, and
perhaps the custom hoses on the Solectrias aren't all they should be. I
suspect that may be all that is wrong with yours. The rate of Freon loss
has more to do with vehicle age and frequency of use than vehicle
miles. Mine were 1995s from New York and probably didn't get much A/C
use. One had 14,000 miles, the other had 9,800 miles. I had them
evacuated by a local shop and recharged. After that they both worked fine,
though typical of a Geo Metro they are rather weak.
I believe the ICS200 requires a 40 amp circuit. My Force doesn't have that
feature, though I do use an Avcon on my Civic EV.
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
'95 Solectria Force
Kansas City, Missouri
EV List Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
At 08:51 PM 10/10/2005, you wrote:
Hey guys,
My 1997 Force is going to be delivered soon!
Mine has an A/C problem with only 11,000 Miles. Anyone on the list have
A/C problems and found the cause? It is also coming with an Avcon
ICS200. Does that have to be hardwired to a new circuit. Any
suggestions on how many Amps the circuit should be? It also has a
BC3300/NLG4 3.3KW unit with an extra plug in the trunk.
Thanks,
Noel L
1997 Force (Awaiting Delivery)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very unstable
even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It seamed like any
movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip. I don't know how to
make a more stable front end and was curious what might be done. It has small
6" diameter brake drum hubs and A arms holding the wheels so the wheels fold
under like an old beetle if light or bend outward if heavy. The front is pop
rivited to boat type fiberglass in a center box from which the A arms extend.
And the rear is pop rivited also in another center box. The steering is king
pins & rack & pinion. The wheel base is fairly narrow, 4'. and short in length
about 7'.
Any help would be appreciated.
(I changed the wheels from golf cart style to Chevy Vega 13" and was going to
go out again but the headlight switch flaked out, try again tonight). I
replaced the funky low voltage no instrumentation charger, twinky DC converter,
made the batteries accessible, 6ea US8VGC's under the seat and 3 in the trunk
(directly over the rear drive wheels). I suppose I could relocate those 3
batteries in the passenger floor side (for stability maybe) and eliminate the
2nd seat but that would be a last resort. The rear brakes were not installed
on the US models (supposedly 10k sold according to a Minnesota dealer, Peacock)
but rear brakes were on the Euro models. The rear regen works ok and puts
power back during decel to 0.
Also I need to figure out how to make some doors, maybe Lexan or get jeep doors
done.
Thanks Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Roland, but it said the "page can not be found" when I clicked on the
link.
Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
> Hello Mark,
>
> Here is a WEB site that shows speed control circuits, in many different
configurations and the theory of operation:
>
>
http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html<http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html>
>
> It is 25 pages long if you print it out.
>
> Roland
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Hanson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:02 AM
> Subject: Regen Theory on SepEx
>
>
> Hi,
> I've always used/built series chopper controls and battery chargers in
the past so this regen to zero operation on my Curtis SepEx 72V Bombardier
control is a bit fuzzy. So I need some help in understanding what's going
on.
>
> I put the ARM and FIELD on an O'scope and accelerated with the acel pot
peddle and decelerated with the regen pot brake peddle looking at the
waveforms. I also have a +- current meter on the battery pack to see load
and regen mode.
>
> The armature PWM's at 20kHz to the throttle demand as expected. On
accel, the field is PWM's with the arm increasing duty cycle on the arm and
decreasing duty cycle on the field as speed increases, somewhat as expected
but the field *never* gets more than 50% at start. The field *does not*
reverse during regen and slowing down *but* the PWM increases near zero
speed from about 20% on-time duty cycle to 50% duty cycle when regen to 0
speed. The arm *decreases* pwm while the field *increases* pwm on time
during regen as the speed decreases. The field pwm *never* hits 100% on
time though and does not reverse during regen (only when reversing vehicle
direction of course).
>
> So from Lee's example of Arm Voltage = K x FieldCurrent x Speed: The
motor is probably wound with excessive field turns in order to boost the
voltage over the 72V battery pack while slowing down. I can't figure out
though how it's boosting the voltage over 72V to charge the battery when the
motor is slowing down to a stop, say running a 5mph equivelent 12V
operation. The schematic appears to be just a chopper main fet and diode
clamp around the arm and an H-bridge for the field (for fwd & rev) How does
regen work without a boost converter?
>
> Thanks, Mark
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
http://www.destaco.com/documents/catalogs/series/2/202.pdf
I just built a test fixture at work and used Destaco
clamps.
I think Jim is using something similar to this one.
The dimensions on the datasheet should give you a
relative idea of the size he is using.
Rod
--- James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> At 07:34 PM 10/10/05 -0700, Jimmy wrote:
> >To answer your questions James, I did test the
> switch.
> > In racing you have to be able to disconnect a
> runaway
> >motor in the event of a crash (a short will blow
> the
> >fuse). I tested it several times at a minimum of
> 300
> >amps, 144 volts. There was a nice blue arc every
> >time, just as one would expect - unless you have it
> >submerged in a non conductive/inert gas or liquid.
> >The switch performed well after the tests and I
> have
> >been using it for 12 years. (You can see the
> vehicle
> >at http://www.dm3electrics.com/ the switch is
> sticking
> >out of the hood - driver side.)
>
> Hi Jimmy - and all.
>
> How big is it? There was no frame of reference in
> the photos apart from the
> welding. If it is capable of that performance, then
> it must be
> substantially bigger than I picture it to be. The
> photos on your web site
> are not clear enough to get a real idea of the size,
> but I can see from the
> slot in the hood that it must be quite big.
>
> I pictured something that would be good for a 12V
> system, and your comment
> about 'beating other racers' to me implied ICE
> racing.
>
> Could you give more detail on what it is made from?
> [please don't say
> something like "an XYZ from Home Depot" since the
> nearest Home Depot is
> several thousand miles away for me]. It is the type
> of home-made gadgetry
> that appeals to me, and if it works reliably and
> safely, then great!
>
>
> Regards
>
> James
> [1978 Daihatsu 1300kg cab/chassis truck under
> conversion to electric]
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
stability at speed is usually associated with toe measurement and caster.
Cars tend to be more stable with positive caster and negative toe. I would
not go more than 1/4 inch of toe though.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hanson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 8:45 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Challenging Drive
Hi,
I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very
unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It
seamed like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip.
I don't know how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might
be done. It has small 6" diameter brake drum hubs and A arms holding the
wheels so the wheels fold under like an old beetle if light or bend outward
if heavy. The front is pop rivited to boat type fiberglass in a center box
from which the A arms extend. And the rear is pop rivited also in another
center box. The steering is king pins & rack & pinion. The wheel base is
fairly narrow, 4'. and short in length about 7'.
Any help would be appreciated.
(I changed the wheels from golf cart style to Chevy Vega 13" and was going
to go out again but the headlight switch flaked out, try again tonight). I
replaced the funky low voltage no instrumentation charger, twinky DC
converter, made the batteries accessible, 6ea US8VGC's under the seat and 3
in the trunk (directly over the rear drive wheels). I suppose I could
relocate those 3 batteries in the passenger floor side (for stability maybe)
and eliminate the 2nd seat but that would be a last resort. The rear brakes
were not installed on the US models (supposedly 10k sold according to a
Minnesota dealer, Peacock) but rear brakes were on the Euro models. The
rear regen works ok and puts power back during decel to 0.
Also I need to figure out how to make some doors, maybe Lexan or get jeep
doors done.
Thanks Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Tim,
When I working with nicads way back when, the KOH potassium hydroxide
electrolyte had a bit of lithium hydroxide in it. It was to improve the
electrical characteristic of the cell and life.
Also some of our emergency lighting systems was Cadium/Lead-Acid batteries
which also had Cadium sulfalt in the electrolyte. These were seal batteries
and had a life of 12 years. They was a 20 AH Exides 12 volts and whole sale
cost was $120.00 back in the 70's!! The battery shop replace the ni-cads in all
the emergency light systems with these, because it was a maintenance free
battery that they install and forgot about it.
Then in the latter 70's there was Cobalt lead acid batteries where the plates
were pasted with a combination of sponge lead and cobalt sulfate. Also there
was a bit of cobalt sulfate in the electrolyte.
Now today there is Cobalt Li-Ion batteries. I don't know what the specs. on
these batteries are.
The cobalt is used to harden the grids, so as to keep the active material from
shreading off the grids. As in the lead cobalt cells, they could be charge at a
higher rate or if charge at a normal rate, the batteries will have a longer
life.
I am using the Cadmium Sulfate electrolyte in my T-145's now. Its now been 3
years on these batteries, and they are absolutely clean, no weeping, hardly any
bubbling when charging them at 50 amps up to 85 percent and they are in with
0.01 volt of each other except for four that is 0.03 volt of each other, that I
just got down checking yesterday. The electrolyte is still very clear.
I plan to get 10 years out of these batteries.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Stephenson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: Battery Equaliser
I just got off the phone with the owner of the company - quite a pleasant,
knowledgeable, and together-sounding fellow. He's going to send me some info
which I'll post if applicable.
'Til now they've had their major focus on the industrial/military/RV/boating
markets. They have an intriguing foot-in-the-door recycling program going
on: they take in "dead" forklift batteries (especially interesting to me),
treat them with this additive, recharge them on a tricky recharger they've
invented, and sell them back at half-new prices with a very attractive
warranty policy. As a marketing trick it's slick - the company gets good
performance for years more than expected, and then decides to start buying
the additive themselves so as to keep their *own* batteries in service
longer. Of particular interest was his remark that charging goes faster, and
that the savings the companies get on charging while using the additive was
plenty enough to pay for the additive. If that's true, any improvements in
lifespan would effectively be "free".
See also
http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/9/14/222010/299<http://www.fieldlines.com/story/2005/9/14/222010/299>
(a fellow was
pleased with the results).
The "class of ingredient" is Cadmium Sulfate (< 1%): the Australia site has
the MSDS online
(http://www.batteryequaliser.com.au/assets/bemsds.pdf<http://www.batteryequaliser.com.au/assets/bemsds.pdf>.
However, the work came from a doctoral dissertation from a fellow in the UK
(the guy has a triple PhD), and it's patented, so there's probably a lot
more to it than a simple MSDS entry would indicate. I think he said that the
stuff does its magic for NiCads as well as Lead-Acid types (I'll let you
know when I get his info).
Considering some of their customers, I'm certainly interested. Now all I
need to do is get an EV.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL
PROTECTED]>>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 7:49 AM
Subject: Battery Equaliser
> Has anyone used this stuff? Does it really work?
>
> http://www.batteryequaliser.com<http://www.batteryequaliser.com/>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.11.13/124 - Release Date: 10/7/05
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jim wrote:
I was wondering though? Has anyone else noticed that Tim seems to be doing
all the driving here lately?? Hey John is that little 'Ol Datson getting to
fast for you old man???
In fact I was wondering how John was managing to keep himself out of that car.
That's been his baby and his dream for years now...
I can't be believe he hasn't piloted it once since it's hit this performance
level. How do you do it John??
Stay Charged!
Hump
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a converter
that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much more
than that. I have seen some people put alternators on their conversions.
Do they really draw down the motor that much or is it an effeciency thing?
-----Original Message-----
From: Victor Tikhonov [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:15 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: DC to DC
Michaela Merz wrote:
> Hello everybody:
>
> I am looking for a nice (= powerful) DC-to-DC solution for input voltages
> between 120 V and 156 V, output >200w
Define "nice" a bit better. $359 250W DCDC250/144/14 may be
your good choice, see http://www.metricmind.com/dcdc.htm
Victor
--- End Message ---
