EV Digest 4812
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: DC to DC
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Challenging Drive
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
5) Re: electric pickup
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Electronics 101 question
by Mike Swift <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Challenging Drive
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Electronics 101 question
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: electric pickup
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) RE: DC to DC
by <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Challenging Drive
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: DC to DC
by "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by James Massey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
17) Re: electric pickup
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: electric pickup
by Lightning Ryan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: TS Undervoltage Detection
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower price/availability
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: DC to DC
by Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: EV digest 4806 is Relatively Huge?
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: DC to DC
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Challenging Drive
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) V8 Powered Zombie?
by John Wayland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
by Rush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
by Mark Dodrill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
That's because the link is repeated in the link for some mystical reason, so
all you have to do is copy and paste just one of the 2 links. You can tell
where the second one starts because of the < that starts just before the 2nd
http.....
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
> Thanks Roland, but it said the "page can not be found" when I clicked on the
> link.
> Mark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 2:55 PM
> Subject: Re: Regen Theory on SepEx
>
>
>> Hello Mark,
>>
>> Here is a WEB site that shows speed control circuits, in many different
> configurations and the theory of operation:
>>
>>
> http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html<http://homepages.which.net/-paul.hills/SpeedControl/SpeedController.html>
>>
>> It is 25 pages long if you print it out.
>>
>> Roland
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Mark Hanson<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu<mailto:ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
>> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 9:02 AM
>> Subject: Regen Theory on SepEx
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>> I've always used/built series chopper controls and battery chargers in
> the past so this regen to zero operation on my Curtis SepEx 72V Bombardier
> control is a bit fuzzy. So I need some help in understanding what's going
> on.
>>
>> I put the ARM and FIELD on an O'scope and accelerated with the acel pot
> peddle and decelerated with the regen pot brake peddle looking at the
> waveforms. I also have a +- current meter on the battery pack to see load
> and regen mode.
>>
>> The armature PWM's at 20kHz to the throttle demand as expected. On
> accel, the field is PWM's with the arm increasing duty cycle on the arm and
> decreasing duty cycle on the field as speed increases, somewhat as expected
> but the field *never* gets more than 50% at start. The field *does not*
> reverse during regen and slowing down *but* the PWM increases near zero
> speed from about 20% on-time duty cycle to 50% duty cycle when regen to 0
> speed. The arm *decreases* pwm while the field *increases* pwm on time
> during regen as the speed decreases. The field pwm *never* hits 100% on
> time though and does not reverse during regen (only when reversing vehicle
> direction of course).
>>
>> So from Lee's example of Arm Voltage = K x FieldCurrent x Speed: The
> motor is probably wound with excessive field turns in order to boost the
> voltage over the 72V battery pack while slowing down. I can't figure out
> though how it's boosting the voltage over 72V to charge the battery when the
> motor is slowing down to a stop, say running a 5mph equivelent 12V
> operation. The schematic appears to be just a chopper main fet and diode
> clamp around the arm and an H-bridge for the field (for fwd & rev) How does
> regen work without a boost converter?
>>
>> Thanks, Mark
>>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Another clamp is this one
http://www.destaco.com/documents/catalogs/series/2/202.pdf
At my local supply store it is $10 and change. I am going to use plexi in place
of the phenolic that Jimmy used.
You can find a local distributor here
http://www.destaco.com/index.asp?item=614&name=Sales+Contact&site=1&usa=y
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy Argon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
> James,
> I measured the clamp and as shown in the picture and
> it is 6 inches tall, the copper bars are 1.0 inch wide
> x .25 thk. Actually the clamp in the voltbuggy is
> around 5 inches tall. These clamps come in all shapes
> and sizes. They can be expensive unless you find some
> in a surplus store.
> Jimmy
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It is a power supply and/or a dc to dc converter. I
have a model LUS 10 A 15 and it can take an input from
35 to 135 volt, 47 to 447hz ac OR 35 to 135 volt dc.
The output is 15 volts 3.5 amps I use it to trickle
charge a 12 volt off my 96 volt pack. I also use one
12v out at 10amp for running lights on my Ghia. They
tend to be cheap cause many people think they are just
"power supplies". $10 is cheap for a DC to DC
converter.
Jimmy
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> He asked for a DC-DC converter, not the power
> supply. I suppose you understand the difference.
> Why bother with something for $10 or even
> for free if it won't do the job?
>
> Victor
> >
> > From: Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >
> > Search e-bay for Lambda (sometimes listed as
> > lamda)power supplies. Most can handle AC or DC and
> > have multiple currents available at 12 or 15
> volts.
> > Sometimes around $10.
> > Jimmy
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In a message dated 10/11/2005 4:46:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>>> I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very
unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It seamed
like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip. I don't
know
how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might be done. >>>>
Can you tweak the front end to add more positive castor?
That would entail tilting the top of the spindle toward the back of the car.
I've done it before with tapered shims and it made the cart more manageable.
Not great, but certainly better.
Hope this helps,
Ben
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
It depends. Likely it might just be they parked it and let it go dead. If the
12 volt battery on these dies I believe everything goes dead. I don't know fhis
for sure, but it's maybe possible if you jump it you might be able to get it
charge without ever removing the battery pack. On the other hand, it wouldn't
be a bad idea to remove it anyways and individually equalize the pack manually.
The other possibility is something is dead, in which case you'd likely have to
contact EVBones for some support with this drivetrain. I know someone who
bought one of these in a similar situation a few years ago, it was a DOA deal.
They pulled the pack and trickle charged each battery using some home built
power supplies. They were able to get about 30% capacity out of the PBA pack.
They put it back in and it turned on. At the time the batteries were still
available so they were able to get a new lead pack and it worked great for a
while until the decided to sell it.
Calvin King <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
I just bid on this truck as I do not live very far from Fort
Benning. Assuming this is a total electric, even though it is list
as unrepairable by the gov. can I safely assume that will not be the
case for a newbie who really wants it to work?
Calvin
New to the list an not yet introduced as I am still in the lurking
stage trying to learn a little before I show all my ignorance.
Later,
Ricky
02 Red Insight #559
92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shawn;
How much side hill will the mower manage. My property has a 20% grade I need
to mow.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
Steve,
I don't know what motors or arrangement you are planning but I think
your 150 amps is very conservative.
I am turning a 3 blade 42" deck. At 8mph and 13,000 FPM blade speed I
am only drawing an average of about 1/2 of that (3-4K) on a modest cut.
Most of my land is very flat with only a few steep hills
We are using 8 pcs 12 volt - 100 amp-hr AGM batteries from Northstar
with 2pcs 4 bank chargers.
Two parallel banks for 48 volt 200 amp power. The Northstars give us a
lot of lead in a relatively small package.
I have been cutting my lawn (3 acres) and have found that for my
personal use, we have PLENTY of battery. When it was relatively dry
last month I cut the entire lawn and only lost one LED on the battery
meter. That day I probably could have covered 8 acres without stopping.
Even when the grass was thick and heavy earlier in the year I cut 3
acres and still had a good reserve. On large open space you will do
better than me with your 50" rather than with my puny 42" cut. It's the
overlap that really adds up to wasted power.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack?
I'm working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50" dixie chopper
, and it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run .
steve clunn
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
> To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and
were > unsuccessful,
> Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after
some > good local press and it crashed.
> It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com
>
> Shawn Lawless
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The short answer is yes. Most cars sill use the switched resister
method because it works, and is in production. Many new cars such
as the Insight use PWM. Fewer wires and power switches make for a
more flexible system that does not increase cost.
Mike
On Oct 11, 2005, at 1:01 PM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: Dave Cover <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: October 11, 2005 12:51:01 PM PDT
To: EVList <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Electronics 101 question
Or possibly Electricity 101.
Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan
from a car. To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan
through different resistors. Standard for most cars.
Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I
want to use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be
able to vary the speed. I was just wondering if this was an option
instead of using the resistor/switch method.
Thanks
Dave Cover
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Is it a double A arm or a single J arm?
I have found J arm suspensions are really spooky at speed, especially when
braking.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:45 AM
Subject: Challenging Drive
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very
unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It
seamed like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip.
I don't know how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might
be done. It has small 6" diameter brake drum hubs and A arms holding the
wheels so the wheels fold under like an old beetle if light or bend outward
if heavy. The front is pop rivited to boat type fiberglass in a center box
from which the A arms extend. And the rear is pop rivited also in another
center box. The steering is king pins & rack & pinion. The wheel base is
fairly narrow, 4'. and short in length about 7'.
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> (I changed the wheels from golf cart style to Chevy Vega 13" and was
going to go out again but the headlight switch flaked out, try again
tonight). I replaced the funky low voltage no instrumentation charger,
twinky DC converter, made the batteries accessible, 6ea US8VGC's under the
seat and 3 in the trunk (directly over the rear drive wheels). I suppose I
could relocate those 3 batteries in the passenger floor side (for stability
maybe) and eliminate the 2nd seat but that would be a last resort. The rear
brakes were not installed on the US models (supposedly 10k sold according to
a Minnesota dealer, Peacock) but rear brakes were on the Euro models. The
rear regen works ok and puts power back during decel to 0.
>
> Also I need to figure out how to make some doors, maybe Lexan or get jeep
doors done.
>
> Thanks Mark
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My Fiesta EV has a PWM on the blower control.
The fan runs at idle when the key is on.
There is a thermistor in the motor that speeds up the fan as the motor warms
up.
If the motor is warm enough to keep the blower running when the key is
turned off, it runs until it slows down to idle and then turns off.
The circuit uses a single LM324 op amp and drives an IRFZ48 to control the
motor.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "EVList" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Electronics 101 question
> Excellent! Thanks for confirming it for me. I found a 12 volt, 20 amp PWM
controller kit from a link on this list recently and thought I'd chance it.
I wasn't sure if it would work, but now I will give it a try.
>
> The controller uses a 5k pot like my Zilla, but I don't want them to
operate in parallel. I thought I'd hook up the second pot next to the main
one but stagger it's effect. I could run the cooling fan at a minimum speed
until the throttle is partway into it's travel. Then increase the cooling as
the pedal continues along. Maximum cooling with maximum throttle. This
doesn't follow motor heat directly, but trends along with my lead foot.
Unfortunately this doesn't provide for additional cooling when you take your
foot off the pedal.
>
> Another way would be to have some kind of temperature sensing mechanism
that would increase the cooling with motor heat. It could be as simple as a
bimetalic strip in the exhaust flow activating the pot. Automatic but
tricky.
>
> Or I could just have a knob in the car that I can turn up or down as I see
fit. Only as fool proof as the fool driving the car.
>
> Thanks again Eric, Jim and Mark.
>
> Dave Cover
>
> Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 14:26:00 -0700
> From: Eric Poulsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Electronics 101 question
>
> Absolutely. Both limit the average current through the motor, but the
> resistor option wastes power as heat -- the PWM method is much more
> efficient.
>
> You could easily cobble something together using an analog timer chip
> and an appropriately sized transistor.
>
> Dave Cover wrote:
> > Or possibly Electricity 101.
> >
> > Here's the scenario; I have a simple 12 volt defrost/heater fan from a
car. To change speeds, the switch on the dash powers the fan through
different resistors. Standard for most cars.
> >
> > Can I control this motor with a 12 volt PWM controller instead? I want
to use this fan for main motor cooling and would like to be able to vary the
speed. I was just wondering if this was an option instead of using the
resistor/switch method.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Dave Cover
> >
> >
> >
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd say it is a GM Electric truck. I was bitting up to 3,800 USD for the
truck because I could use some of the parts for my homebrew S-10.
Personally, I wouldn't want to play around with this truck as this truck
is, like most other OEM e-trucks, very hard to repair without extensive
knowledge. So - while it might be a good deal for somebody who really
knows what he/she is doing, it might be a sucker for a newbie, somebody
whithout a fair amount of cash or without a _very_ good wire to Chevrolet.
My two cents.
mm.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Di you have a link to the model you use?
Victor
>
> From: Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2005/10/11 Tue PM 10:04:12 PDT
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: RE: DC to DC
>
> It is a power supply and/or a dc to dc converter. I
> have a model LUS 10 A 15 and it can take an input from
> 35 to 135 volt, 47 to 447hz ac OR 35 to 135 volt dc.
> The output is 15 volts 3.5 amps I use it to trickle
> charge a 12 volt off my 96 volt pack. I also use one
> 12v out at 10amp for running lights on my Ghia. They
> tend to be cheap cause many people think they are just
> "power supplies". $10 is cheap for a DC to DC
> converter.
> Jimmy
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd check the toe-in and add some more before I made major changes.
To check the toe, measure the distance between the front edges of the
front tires and then the back edges. If you can't get a tape between
the edges directly, lay a stick against the tires vertically, let them
touch the ground and measure between the marks. Subtract the two.
That is your toe. The front of the tires should be closer together
than the rear (positive toe.) Negative toe will make the car dart all
over the place. Standard trick for autocrossing but not very nice for
going straight. I'd try one inch of toe to start out.
To adjust the toe, loosen the clamps on the adjustable tie rods and
turn each one the same number of turns. Verify the toe is balanced on
each side by driving straight. The wheel should be dead center. Take
some out of one side and add that in the other to bring the wheel to
center.
To get an idea of how much you're adding, park the car on dirt and
drive a stake in the ground at the front edge of one front tire on the
outside of the tire. Turn the tie rod, having someone else make sure
the steering wheel does not move (or tie it stationary.) Measure how
much the front edge of the tire moved. The movement is 1/2 the total
toe added. Do the same on the other side, then repeat the original
measurement.
Too much positive toe will make the vehicle reluctant to turn in, will
increase the rolling resistance and will wear the tires. In an EV,
it's a fine balancing act between straight line stability and rolling
resistance.
Toe is the only thing you can do at home with common tools so try that
first. If the car still darts, I'd have the whole front end alignment
checked by a shop. You can do it at home with the aid of a
castor/camber gauge or with strings and straightedges and a LOT of
work but I'd just pay the shop to do a check first.
John
On Wed, 12 Oct 2005 01:26:24 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>In a message dated 10/11/2005 4:46:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>>>> I took the Bombardier out for a drive last night and it seamed very
>unstable even at 25mph, like pushing a golf cart up to that speed. It seamed
>like any movement on the steering wheel at speed and it might flip. I don't
>know
>how to make a more stable front end and was curious what might be done. >>>>
>
>Can you tweak the front end to add more positive castor?
>That would entail tilting the top of the spindle toward the back of the car.
>I've done it before with tapered shims and it made the cart more manageable.
>Not great, but certainly better.
>Hope this helps,
>Ben
>
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Here is what I will be building, any comments will be appreciated
http://www.ironandwood.org/circuitbreaker.htm
I'm replacing the phenolic that Jimmy used with plexi and modifying the way the
clamp interrupts the circuit.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jimmy Argon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 7:20 PM
Subject: Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Oct 11, 2005, at 11:23 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Di you have a link to the model you use?
Victor
From: Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/10/11 Tue PM 10:04:12 PDT
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: RE: DC to DC
It is a power supply and/or a dc to dc converter. I
have a model LUS 10 A 15 and it can take an input from
35 to 135 volt, 47 to 447hz ac OR 35 to 135 volt dc.
This appears (from information on the Lambda web site) to be a 1985 to
1992 model power supply. In 1992 it listed for $147 each, less for
higher volume.
Paul
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 09:53 PM 11/10/05 -0700, Rush wrote:
Here is what I will be building, any comments will be appreciated
http://www.ironandwood.org/circuitbreaker.htm
I'm replacing the phenolic that Jimmy used with plexi and modifying the
way the clamp interrupts the circuit.
Hi Rush, Jimmy and all
Well I like it - except for the plexiglass. Better to use something less
flamable in the arc-flash areas IMHO. Bakelite or similar would probably be
the go. Looking at the gap distance between the fixed parts it may be good
to have a 'fin' attached to the moving piece that sits in the gap between
the fixed parts, sort of:
====== <- moving part
// [] \\
/// [] \\\
// [] \\
==//[] [] []\\==== <- fixed parts
[][][] [] [][][][] <- insulation base
[]
[]
[] <- this bit attached to the moving piece so that any arc that
forms has a hard time establishing itself across the fixed poles.
But I do tend to over-design (I can't say "over-engineer", since I'm a
tech, not an engineer).
Hmmm.. thoughts of making a big red button disconnect that has this type of
contact as its' break.
James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Joe,
Good question. I have a decent side that I mow at home (maybe 10%). I
have never really tried more than that.
Since you asked I'll find somewhere with a steeper grade and let you
know how it performs. Since alost all of the "zero turn" mowers aren't
truly zero turn (the drive wheels are not dead center) it takes a
little getting used to driiving on a side grade as you have to apply a
larger amount of force than normal on the downhill drive to keep the
front of the mower running straight. The low battery weight really
becomes your friend on hills and it feels very stable though.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 22:25:50 -0700
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
Shawn;
How much side hill will the mower manage. My property has a 20% grade I
need
to mow.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 4:16 AM
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
Steve,
I don't know what motors or arrangement you are planning but I think
your 150 amps is very conservative.
I am turning a 3 blade 42" deck. At 8mph and 13,000 FPM blade speed I
am only drawing an average of about 1/2 of that (3-4K) on a modest cut.
Most of my land is very flat with only a few steep hills
We are using 8 pcs 12 volt - 100 amp-hr AGM batteries from Northstar
with 2pcs 4 bank chargers.
Two parallel banks for 48 volt 200 amp power. The Northstars give us a
lot of lead in a relatively small package.
I have been cutting my lawn (3 acres) and have found that for my
personal use, we have PLENTY of battery. When it was relatively dry
last month I cut the entire lawn and only lost one LED on the battery
meter. That day I probably could have covered 8 acres without stopping.
Even when the grass was thick and heavy earlier in the year I cut 3
acres and still had a good reserve. On large open space you will do
better than me with your 50" rather than with my puny 42" cut. It's the
overlap that really adds up to wasted power.
Shawn
-----Original Message-----
From: STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using and what size pack?
I'm working on somthing along the same lines usiing a 50" dixie chopper
, and it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to run .
steve clunn
----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
To everyone who tried to reach our website yesterday and today and
were > unsuccessful,
Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit pretty hard after
some > good local press and it crashed.
It's back up if anyone is interested www.zeromow.com
Shawn Lawless
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This would be quite a way for a newbie to start!
On the one hand, it is so highly integrated that it is very difficult to
service, but on the other hand, should you get it running it is a sweet
truck and if you spring for the NiMH upgrade from EVbones others have
mentioned, it is worth $15-$20,000 when done.
You would absolutely need a real lift to access the batteries and need
some sort of heavy duty jack rigged up to lower the *heavy* pack down
from underneath once the truck is raised. This is not a 'do it in the
driveway' type project. You'll also be wanting a scan tool to find out
what the computers are thinking once fired up. GM pretty clearly
designed it for fleet service bays which were equipped with all the
special tools.
If the 12-volt auxiliary battery died before the main propulsion pack
dies, you may need an uber expensive module replaced... apparently one
flaw is that the DC/DC convertor is known to commit suicide trying to
charge up a bad aux battery. Most of the modules for the truck seem to
still be available although expensive... making this truck something of
a gamble as could require $10 or $10,000 in repairs (in addition to the
$7,000 batteries).
Calvin King wrote:
Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
I just bid on this truck as I do not live very far from Fort Benning.
Assuming this is a total electric, even though it is list as
unrepairable by the gov. can I safely assume that will not be the case
for a newbie who really wants it to work?
Calvin
New to the list an not yet introduced as I am still in the lurking
stage trying to learn a little before I show all my ignorance.
--
Jim Coate
1970's Elec-Trak's
1998 Chevy S-10 NiMH BEV
1997 Chevy S-10 NGV Bi-Fuel
http://www.eeevee.com
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Rich wrote:
Gov auction fort benning ga. electric pickup
http://cgi.govliquidation.com/auction/view?id=694396&convertTo=USD
Might be just the thing to resurrect an empty EV-1 shell,
didn't it share the same power train as the E-10?
I only drove an EV-1 for a day, but that inverter sure looks
failure. How the heck did GM let that thing get out in the
open with the rest of the wild used vehicles in that lot?
L8r
Ryan
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Bill Dennis wrote:
> Thanks, Lee! I understand everything except what that component is
> next to the word 200mv. Is that the built-in capacitor inside of
> the LM10?
No; it's the LM10's internal 200mv voltage reference. It's inside the
chip, so you don't have to worry about it.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Hi Shawn
Not sure this is the right forum but are you going to
produce these for sale and if so how much are they
going to cost. I work for san diego county parks and
would like to have a demo to get the parks dept
interested in changing to batt operated and solar
charged systems. contact me off list if it is more
appropiate or call me 619 980 2001
thanks
keith EVan sickle
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Joe,
>
> Good question. I have a decent side that I mow at
> home (maybe 10%). I
> have never really tried more than that.
> Since you asked I'll find somewhere with a steeper
> grade and let you
> know how it performs. Since alost all of the "zero
> turn" mowers aren't
> truly zero turn (the drive wheels are not dead
> center) it takes a
> little getting used to driiving on a side grade as
> you have to apply a
> larger amount of force than normal on the downhill
> drive to keep the
> front of the mower running straight. The low battery
> weight really
> becomes your friend on hills and it feels very
> stable though.
>
> Shawn
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Smalley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Tue, 11 Oct 2005 22:25:50 -0700
> Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
>
> Shawn;
>
> How much side hill will the mower manage. My
> property has a 20% grade I
> need
> to mow.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 4:16 AM
> Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
>
>
> Steve,
>
> I don't know what motors or arrangement you are
> planning but I think
> your 150 amps is very conservative.
> I am turning a 3 blade 42" deck. At 8mph and 13,000
> FPM blade speed I
> am only drawing an average of about 1/2 of that
> (3-4K) on a modest cut.
> Most of my land is very flat with only a few steep
> hills
> We are using 8 pcs 12 volt - 100 amp-hr AGM
> batteries from Northstar
> with 2pcs 4 bank chargers.
> Two parallel banks for 48 volt 200 amp power. The
> Northstars give us a
> lot of lead in a relatively small package.
> I have been cutting my lawn (3 acres) and have found
> that for my
> personal use, we have PLENTY of battery. When it was
> relatively dry
> last month I cut the entire lawn and only lost one
> LED on the battery
> meter. That day I probably could have covered 8
> acres without stopping.
> Even when the grass was thick and heavy earlier in
> the year I cut 3
> acres and still had a good reserve. On large open
> space you will do
> better than me with your 50" rather than with my
> puny 42" cut. It's the
> overlap that really adds up to wasted power.
>
> Shawn
> -----Original Message-----
> From: STEVE CLUNN <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 18:32:27 -0500
> Subject: Re: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
>
> I didn't see what kind of batteries you are using
> and what size pack?
> I'm working on somthing along the same lines usiing
> a 50" dixie chopper
> , and it looks like it will need 150 amps at 48v to
> run .
> steve clunn
> ----- Original Message ----- From:
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:54 PM
> Subject: "ZERO" Electric Mower website back up
>
> > To everyone who tried to reach our website
> yesterday and today and
> were > unsuccessful,
> > Sorry about it being down for so long. We got hit
> pretty hard after
> some > good local press and it crashed.
> > It's back up if anyone is interested
> www.zeromow.com
> >
> > Shawn Lawless
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
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Yeah, it is pretty cheap!
Philippe Borges wrote:
sorry for confusion, yes it's powercube brand, i purchased from him few
vicors, my mistake.
though for that price it need a test :^)
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eric Poulsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 7:29 PM
Subject: Re: DC to DC
This doesn't appear to be a Vicor, and the spec sheet is pretty vague --
No indication of the input range it will accept.
http://powercube.com/pd301_c.htm
Philippe Borges wrote:
Vicor 300V to 12V DC-DC 300W for 10$
http://cgi.ebay.fr/Powercube-DC-DC-Converter-300VDC-to-15VDC_W0QQitemZ7551767828QQcategoryZ4660QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
cordialement,
Philippe
Et si le pot d'échappement sortait au centre du volant ?
quel carburant choisiriez-vous ?
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr
Forum de discussion sur les véhicules électriques
http://vehiculeselectriques.free.fr/Forum/index.php
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neon John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:53 PM
Subject: Re: DC to DC
On Tue, 11 Oct 2005 09:19:29 -0400, "Dewey, Jody R ATC (CVN75 IM3)"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The big question I have is why would you want to spend $359 on a
converter
that can only put out only 20 amps? I would think the draw is much
more
than that.
You wouldn't and it depends. I've been quite happy with converters
and power supplies from astrodyne. Most all are under $150 and many
are under $100.
Up to 100 volts, they make dedicated DC/DC converters. Above that,
their standard switchmode power supplies can be used with DC input.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
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On 11 Oct 2005 at 18:05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I though attachments are automatically filtered out?
The attachment filter is currently down for repairs. It may be some weeks
before they get it debugged. Posts are being scanned for malware.
In the interim, please refrain from posting html and attachments. If you
want to show the list a picture, post it on the web somewhere and provide a
URL.
Thanks for your understanding.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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On 11 Oct 2005 at 22:04, Jimmy Argon wrote:
> It is a power supply and/or a dc to dc converter.
I think Victor's point is that plain vanilla power supplies - and often RV
chargers - are usually not really meant for the rigors of the automotive
environment. Some will work anyway, for some period of time.
Whether you still want to use them depends on how cheap you are, and how
willing you are to to risk DC:DC failure at 1:30am on a dark county road 20
miles from home. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Just wondering, what's the one hour AH capacity?
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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On 12 Oct 2005 at 2:39, Neon John wrote:
> I'd try one inch of toe to start out.
That sounds like a lot. Most EVs are set for zero toe, or close to it, to
reduce rolling resistance.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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Hello to All,
There's a new video at the Plasma Boy webpage that's a lot of fun.
Here's the direct link to it:
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/videos/V8%20burnout%209-28.MOV
Enjoy!
See Ya....John 'Plasma Boy' Wayland
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Rush wrote:
> At my local supply store it is $10 and change. I am going to use
> plexi in place of the phenolic that Jimmy used.
Plexiglass is not a good choice for this application! It melts, and it
burns! Phenolic, bakelite, or printed circuit board material would all
be better choices.
--
Ring the bells that you can ring
Forget your perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in
-- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
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Understood.
I just got a piece of phenolic (1.5"x9"x12") for $10 on Ebay, so I'll be using
that.
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Hart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2005 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: 180 V Circuit Breaker
> Rush wrote:
>> At my local supply store it is $10 and change. I am going to use
>> plexi in place of the phenolic that Jimmy used.
>
> Plexiglass is not a good choice for this application! It melts, and it
> burns! Phenolic, bakelite, or printed circuit board material would all
> be better choices.
> --
> Ring the bells that you can ring
> Forget your perfect offering
> There is a crack in everything
> That's how the light gets in
> -- Leonard Cohen, from "Anthem"
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
>
>
>
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Victor, do you know if battery management/chargers is part of the package?
Or can we get them somehow? That's a big part of the decision for a lot of
people, I think...
Mark
On 10/10/05, Lawrence Rhodes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Is battery management and chargers available? Lawrence Rhodes.......
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Victor Tikhonov" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 6:36 PM
> Subject: Ovonic NiMH battery is available
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > If anyone would like to get these Ovonic's 85Ah NiMH batteries,
> > I'll have some available. I have to pick them up from out of state,
> > so to avoid many trips I want to get in as many as people will
> > need at once. The price is $170 each, pulled from the stock for
> > GM's S10 and EV1 gen II fleet - Ovonic happen to have made many
> > more battery packs than fleet vehicles intended to use them.
> >
> > Most of the batteries are brand new, but some were installed
> > in S10 trucks, in which case got <10k miles on them.
> > There is no detectable performance difference between these
> > and never used ones. Quantity is limited.
> >
> > 13.2V nom, 11 cells; 15-1/2 L x 7-3/4 H x 3-7/8 W, 38 lb each.
> >
> > Few photos:
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh1.jpg
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh2.jpg
> > http://www.metricmind.com/misc/nimh3.jpg
> >
> > Anyone interested please contact me off list. It will take some
> > time to get them and initially cycle them.
> >
> > Victor
> >
>
>
--
Mark
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