EV Digest 4822
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
by "Rich Rudman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Liquid cooling package now available
by Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
by Ricky Suiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: Liquid cooling package now available
by "Grigg. John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: EV truck Tires and Battery Boxes!
by jerry dycus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: FW: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
by keith vansickle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long)
by Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) RE: Pot Box?
by "Catherine C. Burgard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) EV questions...
by Nathaniel LeMaster <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Possible Conversion
by Jason Joseffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Possible Conversion
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by "Christopher Robison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Calling on Ford Ranger EV owers and experienced personel.(long)
by Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Neon John <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by Danny Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Liquid cooling package now available
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Possible Conversion
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Possible Conversion
by David Dymaxion <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: The bttery photos
by "Jake Oshins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: 1/8-Inch End Plates
by "Mark Fowler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Here's the note I sent to the president of CalStart regarding their upcoming
conference.
May try to actually attend the conference, if only to troll and ask the FC
people those hard questions.
Marv
Culver City, CA
----------
From: Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 13:50:15 -0700
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
Dear Mr. Boesel:
Please consider having some proponents of battery-electric (BEVs) and
plug-in hybrid (PHEVs) vehicles at the conference this year.
As a BEV will travel about four times as far as a hydrogen fuel-cell car
given the same amount of energy, it seems as though the state of CA is
presently embarking on a costly boondoggle with this whole "hydrogen
highway" thing.
We need someone to help spread the word that AeronVironment (a California
company) makes chargers that can charge vehicles in the time it takes for
you to stretch your legs and buy a Coke. Their chargers keep the luggage
tractors working down at LAX.
And you can build one of those charging stations for $50,000. Last I heard,
hydrogen refueling stations were $1,000,000.
And even George Ballard, who has built more fuel-cells than any of us will
ever see, has been quoted as saying: "The American garage will be the last
place you see fuel-cells being used".
My family drives battery-electric vehicles which are charged with solar
panels on top of the garage. We haven't been to a gas station in three
years, and it's a great feeling being able to disconnect from non-renewable
petroleum dependence.
Hope to see you at the conference.
Sincerely,
J. Marvin Campbell
4248 Vinton Ave.
Culver City, CA 90232
310.838.0131
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Folks there is a soft start feature on the PFC chargers. Most of the newer
ones..like after #50..go from off to full power in about 2 seconds. I want
it this way. Just so you don't get snaps and blown breakers instantly should
you ask for 30 amps for a 15 amp supply.
The Big 75 K charger... I am looking for 15 to 30 seconds from a hard start
to full power, NO matter what the amps knob is commanding of the power
stage.
And you do get a small inrush on a PFC charger. But it's just caps charging,
without a load. Also if you have the breaker off.... then there will be NO
arcing at all, and the arcs that do happen are in the breaker where they are
taken care of, by some other engineer besides me.
A Zivan without the MOVs is spectacular at night plugged in hot. CRACK!...
The 75K is now on the 200 amp feed.... we can make AMPS!!!
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
\
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
> It's a PFC30 charger. I think there's a little delay from turn on to full
power. At the least I leave the breaker on and plug it in and there's no
noticeable spark at all. My water heater is a 30 amp 240 volt circuit, which
is on a timer. There's no intelligent circuitry to be found other than a
thermostat, so I'm thinking something to that effect would work well.
>
> Roland Wiench <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:A timer might work, if you are
> charging
below 16 amps at 120 VAC. Also you would have to preset the charger ampere
before you turn it on. On some battery chargers this is not too good, where
you will have a ampere surge into the batteries.
>
> The contacts on this type of timer or even a heavy duty industrial timer
would not last long. They are design to operated a coil of a magnetic
contactor that is on the main power line. You would need a Size 2 contactor
for 50 ampere or less.
>
> You could just set a alarm clock to remind yourself, then of course you
would have to remind yourself to set the alarm clock.
>
> Maybe just put up yellow sticky notes to remind yourself, this is what I
do sometimes, but then I forgot to look at them.
>
> Roland
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cor van de Water
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 10:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> There are timers, like the ones used for the sprinklers, that work very
> well.
> Make sure the relay can take the current of the charger, other than that
> it's as easy as setting the clock.
>
> Success,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Joe Smalley
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 9:01 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> I doubt that you could measure it.
>
> The risk is forgetting to charge after 9pm and waking up to a partially
> charged car.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ricky Suiter" >
> To: >
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:07 AM
> Subject: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> > So I just found out my house is on the time of use electricity plan
(which
> is actually costing us more money, but that's beside the point). So now
I'm
> all about using that cheap off peak power, which is 4.64 cents a KWH vs
> 17.52 cents on peak. So the question is does letting wet lead cells
sitting
> around partially charged worth it vs saving a few dimes to charge?
> >
> > Right now it's working out well because off peak goes until 1PM, and I'm
> only using maybe 20 - 25% and get home abound 12:30 and take a 30 minute
> sip, which brings me to within a few percent of full and charge the rest
> after 9PM. I know this isn't hurting anything, but in November it goes to
a
> more conventional peak hours schedule where I'd basically have to charge
at
> night, so say I leave the car sitting all afternoon at half charge, will
> this make any significant difference in battery life?
> >
> >
> > Later,
> > Ricky
> > 02 Red Insight #559
> > 92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> >
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi EVeryone!
After doing quite a bit of searching and researching, I have come up
with a liquid cooling package that can be used with the Zillas or the
upcoming liquid cooled PFC chargers. I still have long-term and abuse
testing to do with the components that have been chosen, but from the
testing I have done so far, I have been quite satisfied with the
combination.
When I began the process of assembling the liquid cooling system for my
Zilla about 1+ years ago, I was a bit lost on how I should assemble it.
I wasted time and money scrapping together a pretty ugly combination of
radiator, pump with a plastic coffee-storing jug as a reservoir,
inverter for pump, and 3/8" to 3/4" juggle of fittings for size
conversion. It worked, but was less than elegant, and took a lot of
time to assemble. So I decided to put together a nifty package with all
of the necessary components (and I mean *all*!) to liquid cool a piece
of equipment like the Zilla.
So, I invite anyone interested to take a look at what I've assembled at:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php
...and give me feedback. The package picture is already outdated (and
my 5 year old digital camera finally gave up the ghost, so an update
will appear when I decide what new camera to get).
Thanks,
Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks Rich, had a feeling that was the case.
Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Folks there is a soft start feature on
the PFC chargers. Most of the newer
ones..like after #50..go from off to full power in about 2 seconds. I want
it this way. Just so you don't get snaps and blown breakers instantly should
you ask for 30 amps for a 15 amp supply.
The Big 75 K charger... I am looking for 15 to 30 seconds from a hard start
to full power, NO matter what the amps knob is commanding of the power
stage.
And you do get a small inrush on a PFC charger. But it's just caps charging,
without a load. Also if you have the breaker off.... then there will be NO
arcing at all, and the arcs that do happen are in the breaker where they are
taken care of, by some other engineer besides me.
A Zivan without the MOVs is spectacular at night plugged in hot. CRACK!...
The 75K is now on the 200 amp feed.... we can make AMPS!!!
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
\
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ricky Suiter"
To:
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
> It's a PFC30 charger. I think there's a little delay from turn on to full
power. At the least I leave the breaker on and plug it in and there's no
noticeable spark at all. My water heater is a 30 amp 240 volt circuit, which
is on a timer. There's no intelligent circuitry to be found other than a
thermostat, so I'm thinking something to that effect would work well.
>
> Roland Wiench wrote:A timer might work, if you are charging
below 16 amps at 120 VAC. Also you would have to preset the charger ampere
before you turn it on. On some battery chargers this is not too good, where
you will have a ampere surge into the batteries.
>
> The contacts on this type of timer or even a heavy duty industrial timer
would not last long. They are design to operated a coil of a magnetic
contactor that is on the main power line. You would need a Size 2 contactor
for 50 ampere or less.
>
> You could just set a alarm clock to remind yourself, then of course you
would have to remind yourself to set the alarm clock.
>
> Maybe just put up yellow sticky notes to remind yourself, this is what I
do sometimes, but then I forgot to look at them.
>
> Roland
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cor van de Water
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 10:42 PM
> Subject: RE: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> There are timers, like the ones used for the sprinklers, that work very
> well.
> Make sure the relay can take the current of the charger, other than that
> it's as easy as setting the clock.
>
> Success,
>
> Cor van de Water
> Systems Architect
> Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
> Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
> Fax: +1 408 731 3673 eFAX: +31-84-717-9972
> Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-501-641-8576
> Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Joe Smalley
> Sent: Friday, October 14, 2005 9:01 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> I doubt that you could measure it.
>
> The risk is forgetting to charge after 9pm and waking up to a partially
> charged car.
>
> Joe Smalley
> Rural Kitsap County WA
> Fiesta 48 volts
> NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ricky Suiter" >
> To: >
> Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2005 1:07 AM
> Subject: Charging off peak vs Battery life
>
>
> > So I just found out my house is on the time of use electricity plan
(which
> is actually costing us more money, but that's beside the point). So now
I'm
> all about using that cheap off peak power, which is 4.64 cents a KWH vs
> 17.52 cents on peak. So the question is does letting wet lead cells
sitting
> around partially charged worth it vs saving a few dimes to charge?
> >
> > Right now it's working out well because off peak goes until 1PM, and I'm
> only using maybe 20 - 25% and get home abound 12:30 and take a 30 minute
> sip, which brings me to within a few percent of full and charge the rest
> after 9PM. I know this isn't hurting anything, but in November it goes to
a
> more conventional peak hours schedule where I'd basically have to charge
at
> night, so say I leave the car sitting all afternoon at half charge, will
> this make any significant difference in battery life?
> >
> >
> > Later,
> > Ricky
> > 02 Red Insight #559
> > 92 Saturn SC2 EV conversion in progress
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> >
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks nice... Do you havethe specs for this pump? I'm curious about
amp load.
Thanks
John
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ryan Bohm
Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 2:53 PM
To: EV List
Subject: Liquid cooling package now available
Hi EVeryone!
After doing quite a bit of searching and researching, I have come up
with a liquid cooling package that can be used with the Zillas or the
upcoming liquid cooled PFC chargers. I still have long-term and abuse
testing to do with the components that have been chosen, but from the
testing I have done so far, I have been quite satisfied with the
combination.
When I began the process of assembling the liquid cooling system for my
Zilla about 1+ years ago, I was a bit lost on how I should assemble it.
I wasted time and money scrapping together a pretty ugly combination of
radiator, pump with a plastic coffee-storing jug as a reservoir,
inverter for pump, and 3/8" to 3/4" juggle of fittings for size
conversion. It worked, but was less than elegant, and took a lot of
time to assemble. So I decided to put together a nifty package with all
of the necessary components (and I mean *all*!) to liquid cool a piece
of equipment like the Zilla.
So, I invite anyone interested to take a look at what I've assembled at:
http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php
...and give me feedback. The package picture is already outdated (and
my 5 year old digital camera finally gave up the ghost, so an update
will appear when I decide what new camera to get).
Thanks,
Ryan
--
- EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
All at the best prices available!
E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
This email and any attachments thereto may contain private, confidential, and
privileged material for the
sole use of the intended recipient. Any review, copying, or distribution of
this email (or any attachments
thereto) by other than the County of Sacramento or the intended recipient is
strictly prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately
and permanently
delete the original and any copies of this email and any attachments thereto.
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi All,
I made it to Ct. Seen the Sunrises, molds, Ect. Will post
more later.
Here's some more stuff James is parting out of.
jerry Dycus
EV'ers,
Some neat parts for EVs on Ebay:
Force High Quality Aluminum Battery Box set, front and rear:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8007633653&sspagename=ADME%3AL%3ALCA%3AUS%3A11
Tires, Low Rolling Resistance 15" tires, new, set of 4:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/P205-75R15-Tires-4-New-S-10-Blazer-E-10-ES-10-EV_W0QQitemZ8007625160QQcategoryZ66473QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Please forward this along to anyone that could use premium, low rolling
resistance tires for their E-10, ES-10 or any conversion vehicle that fits 15"
tires of this size, or might be interested in building a Force of Metro
conversion.
Thanks,
James
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Marv,
since there are quite a few of us EV drivers in the
SoCal area possibly we could stage a drive in and make
some news for BEV or PHEV cars/motorcycles. I
normally work on thursdays but might take a personal
day and bring an EV to LA just for show. If you can
get a few more maybe it would be worth it as I too
believe Cal is being sold a bill of goods and will
throw millions/billions/ away on a boondoggle that
will hurt alternative transportation if you want you
can e-mail me off list and i will work asking my ev
friends if they would be interested
--- Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Here's the note I sent to the president of CalStart
> regarding their upcoming
> conference.
>
> May try to actually attend the conference, if only
> to troll and ask the FC
> people those hard questions.
>
> Marv
> Culver City, CA
>
> ----------
> From: Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2005 13:50:15 -0700
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: CALSTART's Conference in LA Dec. 1st
>
> Dear Mr. Boesel:
>
> Please consider having some proponents of
> battery-electric (BEVs) and
> plug-in hybrid (PHEVs) vehicles at the conference
> this year.
>
> As a BEV will travel about four times as far as a
> hydrogen fuel-cell car
> given the same amount of energy, it seems as though
> the state of CA is
> presently embarking on a costly boondoggle with this
> whole "hydrogen
> highway" thing.
>
> We need someone to help spread the word that
> AeronVironment (a California
> company) makes chargers that can charge vehicles in
> the time it takes for
> you to stretch your legs and buy a Coke. Their
> chargers keep the luggage
> tractors working down at LAX.
>
> And you can build one of those charging stations for
> $50,000. Last I heard,
> hydrogen refueling stations were $1,000,000.
>
> And even George Ballard, who has built more
> fuel-cells than any of us will
> ever see, has been quoted as saying: "The American
> garage will be the last
> place you see fuel-cells being used".
>
> My family drives battery-electric vehicles which are
> charged with solar
> panels on top of the garage. We haven't been to a
> gas station in three
> years, and it's a great feeling being able to
> disconnect from non-renewable
> petroleum dependence.
>
> Hope to see you at the conference.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> J. Marvin Campbell
> 4248 Vinton Ave.
> Culver City, CA 90232
> 310.838.0131
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes I am in Arizona- I have been looking for the
manual for at least a year so far. We had a lead on
one and was going to copy it as we were inform there
were on 10 copies ever made. Unfortunately the
Gentleman who said he had it says he lost it. And now
won't return our calls. Don't know if he ever did have
it or if he was just trying to brag about his owning a
EV Ranger. We were at an State Vehicle Auction bidding
on another dead one. Tried to get it for $500.00 but
some Jerk who didn't even know what he was bidding on
out bid me. When we asked him what he was going to do
with it he said he was going to remove the electric
and put an ICE into it. Can you believe that. Then
tried to sell it to us for $50 more than he bought it
for. But I didn't have $2600.00 to take it off his
hands. Oh well.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Bruce,
> You are going about this the right way. The most
> work
> you will do will be centered around the battery
> pack.
> Since battery pack types have different requiremants
> you need to study the subject well befor you
> purchase
> and install.
> I am presently in the same mode with a Jet
> Electrica.
> I am ripping out the stock battery boxes and
> building
> new stainless steel boxes in slightly different
> shapes
> to accomodate different things under the hood.
> Depending on the battery shape (and quantity) you
> choose you may have to modify your battery boxes.
> The shop manual is a must, try surfing places like
> ebay and google-ing, but dont give up, I just foud
> one
> for a Solectria and I have been looking for two
> years.
>
> Are you in AZ?
> Good luck,
> Jimmy
>
> --- Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > First I realize this is not the Ford Ranger Group.
> > But
> > I need some informational help from experienced
> > people
> > and the Ford Ranger groups do not seem as informed
> > as
> > this group is. This post is for those either with
> > experience specifically on the Ford Ranger EV
> > commercially produced.
> >
> >
>
>
__________________________________
Yahoo! Music Unlimited
Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Does anyone know where the micro switch would be on one of these cars?
The contactor was rebuilt by a reputable company and looks great, I have a
curtis controller 1205, 48 volt.
Catherine
I'm coming in on this one late, but depending on how
your car is wired, it could be the microswitch, or a
relay going bad. They arc, and develop pitting after
a long time, if not protected by a diode.
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Catherine,
> You may want to check your main contactor and see if
> it has been arcing (more that usual) and has a buld
> up
> of carbon. What controller do you have?
> Jimmy
>
> --- "Catherine C. Burgard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
>
> > I've got trouble again. When I step on the
> > accelerator sometimes it doesn't engage anything.
> > It can be totally cold or happen at a stop light
> > after driving awhile. Also driving along it just
> > disengaged from acceleration, nothing at the
> pedal,
> > but the batteries are fine. Does anyone know if
> the
> > pot box could be bad or going bad, and if it was
> > would it cause that sort of problem.
> > Catherine
> > '80 Commuta Car
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> > songs. Try it free.
> >
> >
>
>
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey everyone, I'm rather new to the EV scene and have a couple of
questions.
First some history:
I am working on a design for a small two seat car built from
scratch originally intended to be powered by a motorcycle engine to
get good gas mileage but then I started looking at the electrical
options and am really interested in what I could do with electrical
power.
I am aiming for a "empty" weight of 200-250 Lbs.
What I was wondering was could some of you with more experience in
this area give me a idea of what size a motor I would be looking at
to achieve a continuous 70Mph on a 5% grade given these perimeters.
*Loaded weight of 800Lbs (1 person)
*DC power setup (probably 24-48V)
*Dirt bike wheels
*Not the most drag free design - convertible, but small - 44" wide
Any help would be appreciated, thanks,
Nathan
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi there everybody. My name is Jason and I'm new to this mail
group. I've been reading up on how to convert an ICE to electric for
several months now and am getting ready to begin. I'm curious to see
what people think of the Porsche 912 or 911 (66-72) as a possible
conversion. I'm attracted to this car b/c those which have no engine
are available at a fair price. Does this sound like an attractive
possibility? My aim is to get 50/60ish mile range out of a DC
system. The 912 looks like it has similar dimensions of the Karmann
Ghia which are capable of my desired performance. Just looking for
any advice of input. IF the 912 isn't suitable, I'm attracted to an
old VW Bug. Are there any years to look out for? Thank you, -jason
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jason,
Welcome, I have converted 2 vws, a ghia and a buggy.
I will send you a picture of the ghia. 50 to 60 miles
in a 911 will be tough in normal driving because you
dont have a lot of room for batteries. Also the bug
or ghia is "stiffer" front to rear than a 911 and can
take the extra weight.
check out:
http://dm3electrics.com
Jimmy
--- Jason Joseffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi there everybody. My name is Jason and I'm new to
> this mail
> group. I've been reading up on how to convert an
> ICE to electric for
> several months now and am getting ready to begin.
> I'm curious to see
> what people think of the Porsche 912 or 911 (66-72)
> as a possible
> conversion. I'm attracted to this car b/c those
> which have no engine
> are available at a fair price. Does this sound like
> an attractive
> possibility? My aim is to get 50/60ish mile range
> out of a DC
> system. The 912 looks like it has similar
> dimensions of the Karmann
> Ghia which are capable of my desired performance.
> Just looking for
> any advice of input. IF the 912 isn't suitable, I'm
> attracted to an
> old VW Bug. Are there any years to look out for?
> Thank you, -jason
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'd like to see a flow rating on that pump (what does "high output" mean,
in GPM?), and also some idea of how noisy it is.
Also, realise that this $120 pump has some serious competition - the setup
Otmar recommends:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002567B4/002-4383118-3423212?v=glance
http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/aed75.html
For about $50 for the MJ1200 and the inverter, you wind up with a pump
that's powerful, silent, designed to run nonstop for years and is
submersible, so it can be hidden inside the reservoir for [what I think
is] a cleaner installation.
It would definitely be nice and simple to have a 12V pump instead of
needing an inverter. But for the $70 difference, I'll be happy to pull the
guts out of the inverter and put it in a nice custom enclosure.
Ryan, I know that your goal with EVSource is not necessarily to offer the
cheapest solutions or the widest selection, but the hand-picked best -- I
respect and agree with this approach. But I would need more convincing to
agree that this expensive pump is the best choice for the job.
--chris
Ryan Bohm said:
> Hi EVeryone!
>
> After doing quite a bit of searching and researching, I have come up
> with a liquid cooling package that can be used with the Zillas or the
> upcoming liquid cooled PFC chargers. I still have long-term and abuse
> testing to do with the components that have been chosen, but from the
> testing I have done so far, I have been quite satisfied with the
> combination.
>
> When I began the process of assembling the liquid cooling system for my
> Zilla about 1+ years ago, I was a bit lost on how I should assemble it.
> I wasted time and money scrapping together a pretty ugly combination of
> radiator, pump with a plastic coffee-storing jug as a reservoir,
> inverter for pump, and 3/8" to 3/4" juggle of fittings for size
> conversion. It worked, but was less than elegant, and took a lot of
> time to assemble. So I decided to put together a nifty package with all
> of the necessary components (and I mean *all*!) to liquid cool a piece
> of equipment like the Zilla.
>
> So, I invite anyone interested to take a look at what I've assembled at:
>
> http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php
>
> ...and give me feedback. The package picture is already outdated (and
> my 5 year old digital camera finally gave up the ghost, so an update
> will appear when I decide what new camera to get).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ryan
> --
> - EV Source <http://www.evsource.com> -
> Selling names like Zilla, PFC Chargers, WarP, and PowerCheq
> All at the best prices available!
> E-mail: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Toll-free: 1-877-215-6781
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bruce,
I have seen the same auction scenario, not enough
money at the time and somebody that cant use it as an
EV ends up with it.
You might try the Electric Auto Association website,
we have a chapter in Px Az that meets the first
Saturday of the month.
California has a lot of these trucks you may contact a
chapter there.
Go to:
http://www.eaaev.org/eaachapters.html
Jimmy
--- Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yes I am in Arizona- I have been looking for the
> manual for at least a year so far. We had a lead on
> one and was going to copy it as we were inform there
> were on 10 copies ever made. Unfortunately the
> Gentleman who said he had it says he lost it. And
> now
> won't return our calls. Don't know if he ever did
> have
> it or if he was just trying to brag about his owning
> a
> EV Ranger. We were at an State Vehicle Auction
> bidding
> on another dead one. Tried to get it for $500.00 but
> some Jerk who didn't even know what he was bidding
> on
> out bid me. When we asked him what he was going to
> do
> with it he said he was going to remove the electric
> and put an ICE into it. Can you believe that. Then
> tried to sell it to us for $50 more than he bought
> it
> for. But I didn't have $2600.00 to take it off his
> hands. Oh well.
>
> --- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Bruce,
> > You are going about this the right way. The most
> > work
> > you will do will be centered around the battery
> > pack.
> > Since battery pack types have different
> requiremants
> > you need to study the subject well befor you
> > purchase
> > and install.
> > I am presently in the same mode with a Jet
> > Electrica.
> > I am ripping out the stock battery boxes and
> > building
> > new stainless steel boxes in slightly different
> > shapes
> > to accomodate different things under the hood.
> > Depending on the battery shape (and quantity) you
> > choose you may have to modify your battery boxes.
> > The shop manual is a must, try surfing places like
> > ebay and google-ing, but dont give up, I just foud
> > one
> > for a Solectria and I have been looking for two
> > years.
> >
> > Are you in AZ?
> > Good luck,
> > Jimmy
> >
> > --- Bruce Weisenberger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> wrote:
> >
> > > First I realize this is not the Ford Ranger
> Group.
> > > But
> > > I need some informational help from experienced
> > > people
> > > and the Ford Ranger groups do not seem as
> informed
> > > as
> > > this group is. This post is for those either
> with
> > > experience specifically on the Ford Ranger EV
> > > commercially produced.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 23:57:20 -0500 (CDT), "Christopher Robison"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I'd like to see a flow rating on that pump (what does "high output" mean,
>in GPM?), and also some idea of how noisy it is.
>
>Also, realise that this $120 pump has some serious competition - the setup
>Otmar recommends:
>
>http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0002567B4/002-4383118-3423212?v=glance
>http://www.zbattery.com/zbattery/aed75.html
For about the same price, you can get a great 12 volt RV pump that
will literally run forever and be silent in the process. Shurflow is
the most common brand.
Here's one for under $50 from Northern Tool:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?in_merch=1&storeId=6970&productId=357081&R=357081
http://tinyurl.com/dmq7q
This pump is rated at 1 gpm (60 gph) at 40 psi. More than twice that
at the low pressure involved in this system. The pump will draw about
2 amps at 12 volts at low pressure. Since that much volume isn't
needed, a rheostat can be placed in the power feed to slow the pump.
One of those universal heater blower speed control rheostats available
from any auto parts store would work great.
This pump is practically silent when run at full speed. At reduced
speed, one would have to strain to hear it.
I've had the Shurflow pump in my RV literally run dry for months when
I forgot to turn off the pump power when draining the water system for
winter. No harm done.
John
---
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.johngsbbq.com
Cleveland, Occupied TN
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
You wouldn't want to use a rheostat (resistor). Since voltage drop is
proportional to current, when it tries to draw high currents to get
started it may not even be able to start.
That's also a demand pump. It may not operate correctly in this type of
system because the pump has an integral switch which will shut off
automatically when the output pressure is high (faucet is off). That
condition shouldn't occur in theory, but I wouldn't entirely rule it out.
Shurflo makes a lot of pumps, probably one has lower flow rate and no
autoshutoff.
Danny
Neon John wrote:
The pump will draw about
2 amps at 12 volts at low pressure. Since that much volume isn't
needed, a rheostat can be placed in the power feed to slow the pump.
One of those universal heater blower speed control rheostats available
from any auto parts store would work great.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Why aren't more people doing a heat pipe like Bill Dube on his
Wabbit?
Cheap, quiet, no amp draw, reliable, simple...
--- Ryan Bohm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi EVeryone!
>
> After doing quite a bit of searching and researching, I have come
> up
> with a liquid cooling package that can be used with the Zillas or
> the
> upcoming liquid cooled PFC chargers. I still have long-term and
> abuse
> testing to do with the components that have been chosen, but from
> the
> testing I have done so far, I have been quite satisfied with the
> combination.
>
> When I began the process of assembling the liquid cooling system
> for my
> Zilla about 1+ years ago, I was a bit lost on how I should assemble
> it.
> I wasted time and money scrapping together a pretty ugly
> combination of
> radiator, pump with a plastic coffee-storing jug as a reservoir,
> inverter for pump, and 3/8" to 3/4" juggle of fittings for size
> conversion. It worked, but was less than elegant, and took a lot
> of
> time to assemble. So I decided to put together a nifty package
> with all
> of the necessary components (and I mean *all*!) to liquid cool a
> piece
> of equipment like the Zilla.
>
> So, I invite anyone interested to take a look at what I've
> assembled at:
>
> http://www.evsource.com/tls_cooling.php
>
> ...and give me feedback. The package picture is already outdated
> (and
> my 5 year old digital camera finally gave up the ghost, so an
> update
> will appear when I decide what new camera to get).
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I in the process of sloooowwwwwlly converting a 1977 911 to electric
power. Obviously I think it is a good choice :) . Watch for rust. If
you are buying one because it is "cheap" beware -- parts and
insurance can be expensive. A bug would be much cheaper, they made 10
or 20 times as many. More comments are in the next message.
--- Jason Joseffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi there everybody. My name is Jason and I'm new to this mail
> group. I've been reading up on how to convert an ICE to electric
> for
> several months now and am getting ready to begin. I'm curious to
> see
> what people think of the Porsche 912 or 911 (66-72) as a possible
> conversion. I'm attracted to this car b/c those which have no
> engine
> are available at a fair price. Does this sound like an attractive
>
> possibility? My aim is to get 50/60ish mile range out of a DC
> system. The 912 looks like it has similar dimensions of the
> Karmann
> Ghia which are capable of my desired performance. Just looking for
> any advice of input. IF the 912 isn't suitable, I'm attracted to
> an
> old VW Bug. Are there any years to look out for? Thank you,
__________________________________
Start your day with Yahoo! - Make it your home page!
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you have a link for everyone? I'd like to see what you did, too.
I differ on a 911 having less room for batteries. The 911 is bigger
than alot of people realize, it has nearly the same footprint as a
Jeep Cherokee (I know, I use to park them right next to each other).
The small roof fools the eye into thinking it is a small car. It
looks to me like I can get 12 Orbitals up front at floor level, where
the battery, spare tire, and gas tank used to go. The spare tire lies
flat on its side in the front of the car. I think I can get 8
Orbitals around the electric motor in back, again at floor level. If
I were willing to stack batteries, I think I could get 4 to 8 more
batteries in front, and 3 to 6 more in the back, for a total of 27 to
34 batteries, without putting any in the passenger compartment.
I had never heard that a bug or ghia was stiffer than a 911. My
experience is limited -- what is your experience or where did you
hear that?
I seriously considered doing a Ghia, here are my reasons why I went
911 instead:
Brakes: 911 much better
Tranny: 911 tougher
Gearing: 911 geared for higher top speed
Handling: 911 handles better. Also a proven design for high speed
driving.
Weight: Ghia is lighter
Wheels: 911 has wider wheels better suited to racing (narrower Ghia
wheels are probably more efficient)
Battery room: 911 has a flat spare and gas tank on the floor in
front. Ghia has vertical spare and gas tank up high. 911 has a longer
engine compartment. It looked to me like I could get more batteries
into the 911, and put them lower in the car.
Motor room: 911 has a longer engine compartment
Cost: Ghia cheaper to buy and parts are cheaper (at least parts
common with the bug)
Aerodynamics: Not sure which is better, but 911 designed for high
speed driving
--- Jimmy Argon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jason,
> Welcome, I have converted 2 vws, a ghia and a buggy.
> I will send you a picture of the ghia. 50 to 60 miles
> in a 911 will be tough in normal driving because you
> dont have a lot of room for batteries. Also the bug
> or ghia is "stiffer" front to rear than a 911 and can
> take the extra weight.
> check out:
>
> http://dm3electrics.com
__________________________________
Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005
http://mail.yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Can thesebe broken up into individual cells? The dimensions just won't
work for me and I'm wondering if they can be split up for stuffing into
smaller spots. (I understand that this would even further complicate
thermal issues and monitoring.)
- Jake Oshins
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2005 5:06 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: The bttery photos
Photos of the battery:
Someone posted this link which has photos of the
Cobasys batery:
http://www.cobasys.com/pdf/transportation/Series9500/Series_9500_Brochur
e.html
Ovonic ones have white plastic cover and 11 cells instead
of 10 for Cobasys'; otherwise they are identical looking
(The cells, straps, end plates, color, etc.)
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I've used 3mm Al plate (about 1/8") with M6 threaded bar for end plates
and side straps.
(to squeeze TS batts into extra nooks and crannies :-)
Here's some early construction pics.
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target115.html
http://www.thefowlers.homeip.net/EClubman-all/target118.html
Mark
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of John G. Lussmyer
Sent: Sunday, 16 October 2005 1:14 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: 1/8-Inch End Plates
At 07:04 AM 10/15/2005, Bill Dennis wrote:
>I've got some 1/8-inch aluminum. Would that be thick enough to be the
end
>plates that hold 5 TS cells to keep them from expanding?
Seems a bit thin. The ones I have are more like 1/4" thick, with 4
straps around the batteries to the end plates.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream....
http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
