I like the Cruising Equipment E-meter, Heart Interface Link-10, and now
it's the
Xantrex Link-Lite something-or-other
I have 2 E-Meters that nobody has bought, give me a fair price and I'll bet
I say yes.
www.TucsonEV/EVstuff.html
Rush
www.TucsonEV.com
'Tesla upends the market because it provides differentiated product'
http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2014/04/ttac-long-term-tesla-part-1-why-i-bought-a-tesla-model-s/
TTAC Long-Term Tesla Part 1: Why I Bought A Tesla Model S
By Ed Zitron April 30, 2014
[image
That AH meter at lightobject looks very interesting. It doesn't say
what shunt or range of shunts it can use that I can see.
I have a buck converter that I can put on my tractor to power the
meter, but obviously I'd need to use a shunt to measure current. I
have a 50mV/500A shunt installed; do
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For EV drag racing discussion, please use NEDRA
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/NEDRA)
I have one in my truck and it works great. It wants a 75mV shunt but I
have a 50mV/500A. You just lie the meter--I.e. I said it was connected
to a 75mV/750A shunt.
The manual is available here:
http://www.lightobject.info/viewtopic.php?f=14t=1074
Jack Rickard of EVTV has written a plain english
See the same item on evtv's website shop - there is a useful setup document you
can download and they sell it with a suitable shunt. MW
On 14 May 2014, at 11:35, Michael K Johnson via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
That AH meter at lightobject looks very interesting. It doesn't say
what shunt
Thanks for the additional information, Denis.
I admit that I took a quick glance and thought the unit was much simpler than
it actually is.
But a 2 display? For eyes over 40? :-) I guess they figure the availability of
the Android app makes up for the dinky display. But I'd REALLY prefer
From: Michael K Johnson via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
That AH meter at lightobject looks very interesting. It doesn't say
what shunt or range of shunts it can use that I can see.
I have a buck converter that I can put on my tractor to power the
meter, but obviously I'd need to use a shunt to
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Thank you! That's perfect! All you are really doing is programming
mV/A with a max of 75mV, so that makes sense.
The EVTV diagram says Isolated 12v to 12v DC-DC Converter. I didn't
see anywhere else that the negative power terminal on the JLD404AH
cannot be tied to the COM terminal. And all my
I don't use manganin battery leads (no one does), but I like a
temperature-stable reference, and 10-15mV drop in normal operation is
noise. ☺ And my longest battery lead is in the middle of my pack so
it's biased by half the pack, which would mean that it would be more
of a pain to measure since
michael.e.r...@gmail.com
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The problem is that 10-15 mV is noise on a battery cable, but 20-30% of range
for a typical meter with 50 mV input sensitivity. That's why you need a shunt
that is very stable.
Mike
On May 14, 2014 6:26:15 PM MDT, Michael K Johnson via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:
I don't use manganin
You say that like it's past tense! I still have this on my electric Porsche
914, though only for lack of funds/time...
-Ben
On May 13, 2014, at 7:08 PM, Jan Steinman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
From: Michael Ross via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
It had another training system - where you
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, Peter, although ±4% for 90% of the
typical annual temperature change here isn't TOO bad! I'm guessing temperature
affects on battery capacity are of a similar magnitude.
I think I like the hall-effect torus sensor better. A 50 mV drop at 500 A is 25
Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, Peter, although ±4% for 90% of the
typical annual temperature change here isn't TOO bad! I'm guessing temperature
affects on battery capacity are of a similar magnitude.
Keep in mind that the wire also heats up from the
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