The thickness of the tab changes the amperage setting. Thicker equals
higher amperage.
Start out a very low amperage, and increase it until you get an
acceptable weld. Never start out at high amperage. Good way to ruin
electrodes and make a mess. (Ask me how I know.)
The negative end of the cell requires different amperage than the
positive end. (Actually, you have to set _all_ the weld parameters
slightly differently for each end of the cell, but amperage varies the
most of all.)
It takes a few practice cells to get the machine dialed in with the
correct profile to make strong clean welds. The machine does a complex
multi-step process when it welds, and you have to adjust each portion of
that process to make good welds. (If you simply wipe the cells clean
before you weld, that will change the parameters quite a bit, but it
will be more consistent than leaving the cells uncleaned.) It can take
quite a few practice cells at first to get your welder running well on
the particular cells and tabs.
This multi-step profile (typically) has two current pulses, one to
"clean" the weld surfaces, and the second to actually perform the weld,
that are separated by ~50 milli-seconds. You adjust all the times and
currents. You set the alarm limits on the currents. You can set alarms
on weld resistance, weld power, weld voltage, yada yada yada. You have
to set the electrode contact pressure separately for the positive
electrode and negative electrode, because they don't heat completely
equally.
Wear safety glasses, because some small piece of crud can make the weld
go very badly, flinging tiny pieces of molten metal everywhere. Somewhat
akin to a tiny asteroid hitting.
Bill D.
On 9/30/2020 11:03 AM, Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
Is amp capacity a function of each spot weld? Of nickle strip thickness? I am
trying to be safe and functional. I also don't want to croak the
batteries(A123) Lawrence Rhodes
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