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I have an S-10 electric conversion with 20 6 Volt golf cart batteries.
They have studs. I am on my 2nd set of batteries and haven't melted
any lead or had any studs pull out.
I tighten them with a small (6) wrench wrapped in electrical tape, so
can't
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On 06/03/2014 12:39 PM, Roland wrote:
Are you guys talking about the low profile studs or the high auto
post with imbedded stud?
I believe mine are the low profile...I certainly couldn't get a
regular auto post style connector on them...the lead
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On 06/03/2014 10:19 AM, KenA via EV wrote:
I'm tempted to build a set of lugged cables to try but I think my
use pattern may be the real culprit here.
My commute is now 15 miles of mostly highway travel - typically at
55mph. It's not uncommon
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One thing to check is your non-drivetrain elements, although if you
get the vibration without moving in neutral it's probably in the
drivetrain.
The reason I mention it is that our car had developed a vibration at
the 58-60 MPH speed range, and it
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I've seen plans on the Internet to make a small (3-5 foot diameter sit
on disk) Hovercraft out of a piece of plywood and an (ICE) leaf
blower (+thick plastic shower curtain skirt).
Unfortunately, my little Black Decker hard surface sweeper
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Has anybody mentioned the Echo Drive (by Echo Automotive) yet?
It sounds like it is a VERY close fit to what the original poster was
looking for.
Basically the Echo Drive is a motor that bolts onto the end of the
transmission and connects to (a
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On 08/11/2014 04:11 PM, Roger Stockton via EV wrote:
Most likely a mechanical issue with the ganged caps. Given that you
water infrequently, you might want to check with your dealer to
see if they will supply you with individual caps. The
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On 08/12/2014 08:57 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
On 08/12/2014 02:39 PM, Peter C. Thompson via EV wrote:
Another option is to add in an automatic water refill system,
similar to this: http://www.aquapro.net/overview_what.html
That does
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On 08/19/2014 07:54 PM, Ben Apollonio via EV wrote:
True enough, but if a 200Ah cell fails shorted, it still has 200Ah
to dump all by itself, which is likely to be equally catastrophic.
I think the probability of occurrence is higher with 200 1Ah
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On 08/19/2014 09:12 PM, Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
So, if you want individual fusible cells, then a bus bar on both
terminals won't work. One side can be spot welded but the other
side needs the fuse wire - or something. Not sure how that
On 08/20/2014 10:22 AM, Lee Hart wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
The eSamba guy is using a piece of fuse wire to each cell, so that
if a single cell shorts out, the fuse wire blows...
That's a good plan. Do you know how he tested it, to be sure the fuse
wire is sized right to actually
On 08/22/2014 10:25 AM, Rick Beebe via EV wrote:
LeasePurchase
Year 1-3 Downpayment $2400$2400
36 payments @ $ 199$ 300
Year 4-5 downpayment $2400$ 0
24 payments @ $ 199$ 0
Total: $16740
My vehicle has an old-fashioned dumb charger that contains a
(resonant) transformer, so the lower the input voltage, the lower
the current.
I have a 120 volt QuickCharge brand boat anchor (super big
transformer) charger and it has that same feature. It slows down when
you only get 108
On 02/04/2015 10:15 AM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'm looking to buy a kit (or an assembled) battery charger for a 120v
lead acid system, with an eye to upgrading to a LiIon system in the
future (also near 120-130 volts, limited by my controller/motor combo).
Hi Jay
On 01/29/2015 11:00 PM, Don Bradley via EV wrote:
Jay,
You may want to look at this charger for sale from Thunderstruck:
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/pfc-ii-2500-and-charge-controller.html
Thanks! I'm willing to go down to 2.5kW for that cost savings.
Plus the compactness is nice
On 01/30/2015 01:11 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Brusa will. They're one of the few manufacturers I know of that cater both
to OEMs and hobbyists. They also have a Saft STM100 profile, which you
could probably edit for other Saft blocks.
A 1.6kw is $1775 and the 3.3kw chargers
I think the hardest feature that I want (w.r.t. building a simple
bad boy style charger) is the ability to automatically work with
both 120v and 240v input, and switch between them without user
intervention.
With a simple phase control system, I imagine that this would mean I
would have to only
I'm looking to buy a kit (or an assembled) battery charger for a 120v
lead acid system, with an eye to upgrading to a LiIon system in the
future (also near 120-130 volts, limited by my controller/motor combo).
Requirements:
-Must support customizable charging curves that I can tweak between
On 01/30/2015 12:27 PM, Rush Dougherty via EV wrote:
Jay wrote -
http://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/pfc-ii-2500-and-charge-controller.html
Also, the integrated j1772 signal decoding is a nice feature
How is the Proximity protocol implemented in the charger?
According to the website, it
Thank you for all the pointers!
That said... You will need two different cords anyway; one with a 120vac
plug on the end, and one with a 240vac plug on the end. The cord itself
can have a connector at the other end that plugs onto the charger with
whatever wiring is needed to change
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I found this used citicar in Alabama on ebay, starting bid listed at
$1,500:
Item number 161641184142
http://www.ebay.com/itm/161641184142?forcerRptr=trueitem=161641184142
Red in color, sold as a project car and needs restoration, but it
looks
I am now the new owner of a totaled Nissan leaf purchased at a salvage yard.
I'd like to hear any first hand accounts or links to
tutorials/howto's/photos of anybody who has done this before.
The plan is to drop and disassemble the battery pack, and re-package the
modules into sixteen set of
When my leaf was delivered it was dead, but I was able to boot it up,
clear error codes, and view the OEM BMS statistics via the OBDII port
and the Android Leaf Spy application. The charging system, High Voltage
battery and EV motive system all appear to be working correctly.
If you are
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I was searching YouTube and found a new video where a guy disassembled
a leaf pack. (He posted it only a week ago, which is why I hadn't
found it before.).
Good info for anybody looking to do the same:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0dDHJKzX78
You can purchase them NEW instead of use.
Roland
I am aware that I can purchase blocks of cells (from Hybrid Auto Center,
and others) which may be new, or old/unused stock, or pulled from
salvage depending upon source. I chose to buy a Salvage pack for cost
savings purposes.
48
On 03/31/2015 09:12 AM, via EV wrote:
Anyone know what the maximum discharge rate is for the Nissan Leaf
batteries?
No hard facts, but here are my estimates:
The Nissan leaf battery is made up of 48 modules, each providing 7-8.2
volts at 60Ah, for a total of 390-400 volt max @ 60Ah or ~24
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I wrote up details about the Salvage Auto-Auction process at CoPart
and my experiences purchasing a wrecked Nissan Leaf at the following
URL, along with a few pictures:
On 03/24/2015 01:50 PM, Michael Ross wrote:
I don't know how you would determine ahead of time if a Leaf pack has
much capacity remaining. There is a lawsuit out because Nissan did a
poor job of pack design where high temperatures are seen. Some packs
in hot climates have lost half their
A 3kW one is only $1395
http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=203vcharger
I like that option the most so far. (although I'd probably get the 160
volt 24 amp one instead of the 203v 20 amp one...)
It comes pre-built and costs about the same as the build it yourself
12KW monster kit,
Just re-watched the video...4.3m x 5.3 m canopy area, so 22 sq meters of
lenses focusing on the top of the car. Assuming 1kW per square meter,
50% for focusing loss, and 80% loss for solar panel conversion
efficiency...(22 * .5 * .2 = 2.2) that gives 2.2 kWh of power (for say
5-6 hours a
YouTube url:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fc2rZC4vSqQ
I believe this has been discussed on the list before.
Issues I remember:
-on 300 watts of power under full sunlight, so needs a solar
concentrator carport to give more power. (how much more is not strictly
specified, but it looks
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On 04/19/2015 11:51 PM, ken wrote:
The ones I use start Shunting at 3.65 and HVC at 4.00 .
Dimitri from Clean Power Auto recommended against lowering the default
settings as it would leave capacity on the table (make it unable to
charge to
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I have a low range S-10 pickup conversion with lead acid batteries.
(I limit it to 20 miles a charge with new batteries, and after a year
or two the usable range is closer to 15 miles.) It's also relatively
inefficient, especially for the stop and go
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On 04/18/2015 11:13 PM, Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
Jay, thanks for all the valuable information on procuring and
opening a Leaf battery pack. Look forward to you getting it
installed in your S-10.
I'll actually be taking things easy for a while,
Thanks, you had mentioned that they were sealed well before, and you are
right!
I didn't have an Air Chisel, and it was a REAL CHORE removing it with a
hammer and 11/2 putty knife! I probably spent 2 hours breaking the
seal
But I eventually got it open:
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I was able to remove the Nissan Leaf battery using just jackstands and
3 jacks on a concrete pad without too much pain and anguish.
Writeup with pictures here:
I was able to boot up the leaf and get it moving around under it's own
power. (with wheel dollies under the rear wheels).
Video here: http://www.summet.com/blog/2015/03/31/its-alive/
So the entire drive-train up front is in working order. (charger,
inverter, motor, gearbox, steering, all
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I sold a leaf compressor from my salvage Nissan Leaf to a guy who was
going to use it in his conversion (Mazda rx-7?). It had two orange
wires that were directly from the battery voltage, and then some
smaller wires that I assume were the 12v
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But the truth is that lead SLI batteries are good enough for the
job, and they are CHEAP... cheap wins every time.
One place where Lithium may work better over Lead is for instant/auto
start/stop applications. (where the starter is much
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On 05/31/2015 10:33 PM, Ben Goren wrote:
On May 31, 2015, at 1:12 PM, Jay Summet via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:
The 2013 battery modules do have more air holes in them for
passive thermal heating than the 2011/2012 modules.
That sparks
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FWIWI believe that the thermal control on the 2013 batteries is
a set of heaters that can be turned on, and does not include any
active cooling.
You can see what I think are the heater elements in the upper right of
this image:
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On 05/30/2015 02:00 AM, John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
On Fri May 29 16:19:59 PDT 2015 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
Seems impossible to monitor how can they know how far I drove?
There's this wonderful new invention that most cars have in them.
It's
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I had Sams Club batteries in my S10 EV (20 of them) for my first pack.
They were Energizer EGC2 batteries. (The cost was around $1700 5-6
years ago.)
They lasted 2 years with good service, and I eked out another 3/4 of a
year with reduced
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On 06/29/2015 09:08 AM, Matt Lacey via EV wrote:
For the case of like a 60 volts to 125 volts for a traction pack
for like a scooter.. why do some choose leaf cells ? seems like
you have to get a more specialised/ costly BMS like orion. I've
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On 05/26/2015 09:09 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
The silver lining is that battery theft could decline as the market
share for fully electric vehicles grows, as the batteries for such
vehicles will most likely be so heavy that it would be
I have seen that when a Lead pack gets older the batteries definately
start to use a LOT more water.
However, it is usually (somewhat) evenly distributed across all of the
batteries/cells. (I did have a situation where one battery used up more
watter than the others, and it was going bad
On 08/18/2015 06:08 AM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
IMO, I would say you have gotten your money out of that old pack, and should
get a new pack so you can continue to enjoy your baby :-)
I agree, using Sams Club batteries I just got 3.75 years of life, and it
looks like my pack of Interstate
Did NOT work for me. (and I was logged into Facebook at the time.)
Jay
On 08/23/2015 11:25 AM, Mark Abramowitz via EV wrote:
Worked for me.
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 23, 2015, at 1:38 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
wrote:
On 22 Aug 2015 at 19:31, Lawrence Rhodes via EV
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Here is the link to the MiniBMS units:
http://minibms.mybigcommerce.com/minibms-cell-module/
You buy the 4.2 volt - LiNMC cells ( Leaf, Volt, etc ) option.
Jay
On 06/29/2015 06:21 PM, ken via EV wrote:
Is there anohter BMS to use for leafs cells
I will soon be replacing the lead acid golf cart batteries in my truck
with lithium cells (from a Nissan Leaf).
Currently, the battery boxes are lined with (decaying) 3/16 plywood, as
well as 1/2 insulation foam on the bottom, as well as surrounding the
batteries.
I'm interested in
On 08/06/2015 11:24 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I like epoxy-based spray-in pickup truck bedliner material. (Not the rubbery
glop, but the rock-hard stuff that you mix and apply with an undercoating
gun while wearing a good respirator.) You can apply it right over bare,
clean,
Any reason to use high density (HDPE) or ultra high molecular weight
(UHMW) over the more inexpensive low density (LDPE)?
Jay
On 08/06/2015 09:13 PM, Paul Dove via EV wrote:
Polyethylene
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If you are using GC2 style 6 volt golf cart batteries, they are
usually rated in minutes of 75 amp draw (Mine are 107 minutes).
They are rated at 208 AH (if you draw them down over 20 hourswhich
is unrealistic) and can probably deliver 110 or so
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http://insideevs.com/nissan-leaf-battery-settlement-get-final-approval/
I hadn't heard much about this class action lawsuit, but apparently
any 2011/2012 leaf owners with less than 9 capacity bars will be
getting a brand new battery, and free access
I've taken the J1772 inlet & cable from my salvaged (2013) Nissan Leaf
and am planning on connecting it up to the new charger for my S-10
pickup truck conversion.
It has the standard 5 pins (Hot/Hot/Ground/Proximity/Pilot). The two
hots connect to two large orange wires. The Proximity/Pilot
I would recommend staying away from the 2011/2012 leafs for several reason:
1) Parts for the 2013 leaf work with 2014/2015 (and probably 2016).
Between the 2012 and 2013 they upgraded quite a few things (probably
improving most of them).
For example, they moved from using external chargers
themselves...)
Jay
On 11/14/2015 10:02 PM, Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
Jay, is the inlet lighted?
Could it be ground returns for LED's?
Al
On 11/12/2015 9:34 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I've taken the J1772 inlet & cable from my salvaged (2013) Nissan Leaf
and am planning on connecting it
and newer model years. Not sure if the J1772 wiring involved anything with the
lighting setup.
Tom Keenan
On Nov 14, 2015, at 7:54 PM, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
The charging "bay/door area" on the Leaf is lighted, but that light is in a
different location a
Yes I did, but I'm afraid I already sold it to Bill Dennis.
Jay
On 11/15/2015 11:01 AM, Paul Wallace via EV wrote:
Jay,
did you have a Chademo connector that survived the crash? I've been looking
for one for my S10.
thanks,
Paul Wallace
___
- Original Message -
*From:* Jay Summet via EV <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
*To:* Electric Vehicle Discussion List <mailto:ev@lists.evdl.org>
*Sent:* Sunday, November 15, 2015 6:08 AM
*Subject:* Re: [EVDL] Extra ground wires on Nissan Leaf J1772 inlet
& cable?
I've finished building eight "batteries" from my salvaged Nissan Leaf
pack. Each battery is ~16 volts and 180 Ah (3P2S arrangement of modules)
and weights just under 60 lbs. My final pack will be ~128 volts and 180
Ah and weigh under 480 lbs.
You can watch a video of the build here:
On 10/16/2015 02:13 PM, Rush Dougherty via EV wrote:
>
> Jay Summet wrote
>>
>> The only downside I see with the JuiceBox is that it is (not yet) UL
> Certified, although they
>> claim to be undergoing that multi-month long certification process now. This
> is disclosed
>> on the website if
I also just purchased a JuceBox Pro 40. It worked exactly as it was
supposed to, the (android app) is simple but works exactly as it is
supposed to, and when I asked them to send me an invoice via email they
got back to me within 24 hours.
I have not asked any technical questions, but my
On 08/31/2015 05:58 PM, Peri Hartman wrote:
Well, there's a lot of good to say about plywood. It's non conductive,
extremely strong, flexible, won't corrode, won't melt, easy to work
with, relatively light. It burns and rots are it's two drawbacks. You
might not have a rot problem any more
This story worried me for a bit, as I had just ordered a JuiceBox to
install in Atlanta, GA and am planning on applying for the GaPower $250
rebate.
I went back and double checked the terms of the GaPower rebate form and
it has no "UL Listed" requirement, so hopefully this won't affect those
I now have 45kW of Nissian battery pack in the EV.
Parallel six strings of batteries for 226 volts per string for a total of 199.8
AH.
I'm confused about the number of Leaf modules you have installed. Each
module is two cells and around 8 volts (8.4 max) and 60 AH of capacity.
226 volts
On 09/22/2015 09:19 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 22 Sep 2015 at 3:50, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
? Is this a useful product worthy of the co$t, or is it a profitable
feel-good add-on for bragging-rights ?
What it MIGHT do that's potentially at least as useful -- IF you park mostly
Even if the electronics are fried, the cord/gun could be connected up
with an Open EVSE type kit to make a new one and retain a lot of the value.
Jay
On 12/10/2015 09:44 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 9 Dec 2015 at 23:55, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
IMO your drowned-(its dead Jim)-EVSE
I purchased a TSM charging package for $1200 (shipped) that included
dual TMS2500 (AKA CH4100) chargers and an EVCC for my S-10 truck.
Summary: I've been quite happy with the solution for a low cost and
reasonable performance (4-4.2kW) charger system. (For more money you can
get higher
I've published a writeup and pictures of upgrading my S-10 conversion
from 20 six volt lead acid golf cart batteries to 8 custom batteries I
built out of 48 Nissan Leaf modules. (6 modules per "battery").
You can see the pictures and writeup here:
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself?
I had a cheap AutoZone in-line fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse on the 12
volt line between the DC-2-DC and accessory battery, and today one side
of the holder and one side of the fuse
Having upgraded my charger as part of my truck battery upgrade, I am now
left with two chargers suitable for a 120 volt lead acid pack that I
don't plan on using again.
I haven’t bothered to remove them from my S-10 (they sit behind the seat
in the cab, and the new charger is mounted in the
lay. I figured I got what I paid for.
>
>sean
>
>On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 10:18 PM, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org>
>wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On 01/04/2016 09:59 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
>>
>>> Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>>>
>>>>
I have obtained a surplus fuse, new old stock.
Buss JKS 400
Bussman Limitron
Quick-Acting
Current-Limiting
FUSE
JKS 400
Class J Fuse
Interrupting Rating
200,000 amp. rms sym.
600v or less A.C.
I was wondering if it would be suitable to act as a mid-pack fuse on my
128 VDC LiIon Leaf
If your battery boxes are a bit deeper than mine, and you can put the
leaf modules in vertically you should be able to fit them. However, if
they are sized for 12 lead acid batteries, you may have difficulty
getting all 48 leaf modules in.
I put all 48 leaf modules in the space that was
On 01/08/2016 12:36 PM, Rick Beebe via EV wrote:
On 01/07/2016 01:51 AM, Seth Rothenberg via EV wrote:
I would like to hear what people are doing for L2 charging at home?
I'm using a JuiceBox Pro 40 (amp) box that costs $599 and comes with
wifi networking and a web based console + phone
On 01/04/2016 11:49 PM, Ing. Marco Antonio Gaxiola via EV wrote:
Jay,
The other reason I believe why those fuse melted at 30Amps even
though they state like, is because in their original automotive application,
usually are under temporarly loads such power doorlocks , power windows,
On 01/05/2016 12:41 AM, Roland wrote:
Hello Jay,
Use a Bussman Fustron or better a Bussman Limitron fuse.
I have those on the 128 volt (pack voltage) side of things.
I guess I could use one for the 12 volt (accessory voltage) side, but
they take up a lot of extra space when compared to an
I have successfully driven my S-10 Electric Pickup conversion powered by
48 modules from a salvaged Nissan Leaf battery pack. I have them wired
in series, 16 sets of 3 parallel modules, providing 128 volts with 180Ah
capacity (23 kWh).
It took me a full three days of work to make the swap and
On 12/29/2015 02:40 AM, Ing. Marco Gaxiola via EV wrote:
>Wow, only 10volts sag on a +41kw (+350amps times 118volts) of power,
that is pretty amazing!!
Well, the pack is nominally 128 volts, but it was fully charged to 131.4
volts when I started, so say 13-14 volts sag...but yes, I was
I have some leftover steel mounting plates that came out of a 2013
Nissan Leaf battery. There are 4 base plates and 4 top plates.
Each set of base/top plate will hold two "stacks" of Nissan leaf modules.
I have the long bolts that would allow you to make two plates of 4x
modules (2 stacks of
I've completed the (mechanical) portions of mounting a J1772 inlet, 15
amp inlet, and control buttons/dials behind a flip up license plate for
my S-10 conversion.
A writeup with pictures is located here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2015/11/29/s-10-ev-new-j1772-and-120-volt-charging-inlets/
On 11/30/2015 04:09 PM, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/S-10-air-dam-J1772-inlet-behind-flip-up-license-plate-tp4678948
S-10 air dam, J1772 inlet behind flip up license plate
]
I think you did a great job.
Perhaps later you may want to
I just sold the main body of my salvage Nissan leaf, so aside from a few
small items I have listed on ebay, I have finished recovering costs by
parting out the car after removing the battery.
My final out-of-pocket cost was ~ $28 per module or $1344 for the entire
battery pack.
Details
The PFC chargers uses a 4 wire input which is RED Phase 1, Black Phase
2, White Neutral and Green ground. All four wires are use for 250/125
volts. The Black, White and Green is use for 125 volts.
Unfortunately, my chargers are dual voltage and only use 3 wires, L1/N,
L2, and ground, so I
Its use would also be an ice-head familiar inlet for them to understand and
use when the EV is under their care ("Yea, just keep it plugged-in to
protect the battery, while you wait for the parts to come in ... [keeps pack
from bricking] ).
Yes, that is exactly the type of thing that I'd
On 11/22/2015 01:06 PM, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
tomw via EV wrote:
I did something similar to this, only using 240VAC rather than 120VAC. I
have both NEMA 14-50 and J1772 power inputs to the charger. I used this
DPST relay with 240VAC coil to switch between them:
Here is the specific circuit I have designed.
http://s9.postimg.org/ikp4miuhb/inlet_schematic.png
I would like any feedback on the above schematic. (Note that it only
shows the 240 volt power from the J1227 and 120 volt power from the RV
inlet, the Prox/Pilot lines from the J1227 are
ire
to steal copper, and it also wouldn’t allow me to sell the portable J1772.
Jay
On 11/21/2015 09:05 PM, Haritech (Gmail) wrote:
Any reason not to just use a J1772 portable charger?
Lawrence
On Nov 21, 2015, at 13:57, Jay Summet via EV <ev@lists.evdl.org> wrote:
Here is the specific circ
I'm upgrading my charger, and the new charge controller supports j1772
signalling (and I have it working with a j1772 inlet).
But, it also supports 4 user selectable profiles via a rotary switch, so
I could program one of the profiles to NOT use j1772 signalling and
assume the input is 120
s AC
>
>voltage rating. So in Jay Summet's case, his 600vac fuse is OK at
>150vdc.
>
>> On 1/7/2016 8:50 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
>>> I have obtained a surplus fuse, new old stock.
>>>
>>> Buss JKS 400
>>>
>>> Bussman Limitron
On 01/11/2016 08:00 PM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
It also appears that EMW has now UL-certified its products,
seeing that they are awarded contracts under CPUC's DRAM with all 3
investor-owned utilities:
http://emotorwerks.com/component/content/article/89-emotorwerks/emotorwe
I recommend buying an entire wrecked car from an auto insurance auction.
That way you know why it's being sold (car wrecked, not due to
problems with the battery).
In many cases, if you can get the 12 volt system to power up you can
plug in a bluetooth OBDII interface and use LeafSpy to talk
On 06/06/2016 03:04 PM, Jan Minnie via EV wrote:
I'm new to this and your discussion has me totally confused. What is
the verdict? Sep 12v Battery for accessories or not??
You should use a 12 v battery as well as a DC/DC converter or alternator
to keep it charged. The 12 volt battery will
Phew! That's a full days work! At least that cart put it up at a nice
working height so you didn't have to stoop over all day
Jay
On 05/29/2016 03:18 AM, Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
Today I bought a 2011 Leaf battery pack and completely dis-assembled it,
to take it home in my Prius,
On 06/22/2016 09:28 AM, Mike Nickerson via EV wrote:
Personally, at this point, I would go with the Leaf pack. There have
been some people on the list who have been doing that lately.
I did that with my S-10 Conversion, and am very happy with the
performance and final result.
You will
I have luckily never steamed/cooked a golf cart battery, but in the two
packs of golf cart batteries I have had, there was always one battery
that failed "first".
I have a (now no longer available for purchase) PakTrakr system that
reports on the voltage level of each battery, and this was
For anybody searching later:
I ended up buying a Shawmut A25X400, 400A fuse which is a direct
substitute for the Littelfuse L25S-400 by the controller.
I also purchased a pair of Littelfuse LSCR001 400A 1000V Fuse Holders to
mount it.
Jay
On 01/07/2016 08:50 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I
On 01/13/2016 04:01 PM, via EV wrote:
BTW, the target price for the finished car is $150,000 (recommended by the
business advisors). No money to be made building these and selling them for
less than that. If this doesn't work I'll still have a nice and unique EV
sports car for a fraction
With the introduction of multiple good options in the retail market
(leaf volt, bolt soon, bmw, tesla and other minor players) I agree that
buying a new or used EV is a much better value proposition than
converting a car.
The only places where I can see a conversion having value are:
1. To
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