> On Jan 18, 2016, at 6:51 AM, Bobby Keeland via EV wrote:
> Perhaps I can add solar panels on a rack over the pickup so that it is
> recharging whenever the sun is shining. That will not provide a complete
> recharge while shopping, but it should help some.
Adjust your
Thanks for the replies to my question regarding the 1951 Chevy pickup. In
answer to your questions:
I'm retired so don't have a daily commute, but it is 30 miles to my doctor,
dentist and whole foods for grocery shopping. I only drive when I need
something. Range is of course a concern. I used to
Bobby Keeland wrote:
Perhaps I can add solar panels on a rack over the pickup so that it is
recharging whenever the sun is shining.
Bill Woodcock via EV wrote:
Adjust your expectations a bit there… It won’t move the needle.
Good PV panels over the bed and (and perhaps the cab roof) will
Bobby;
Good luck with the build.
I converted a 65 Datsun Pickup, and love it.
EVAlbum, 1366
Fun to drive, and it gets a lot of attention.
Dennis
Elsberry, MO
From: EV on behalf of Bobby Keeland via EV
Here's what you need to SWAG the utility of PV panels on the truck.
The sun can be assumed to produce 1000W/square meter when it is out with
few clouds and high enough in the sky. The very best panels will return
about 20% of that, many will do much less.
In case you don't know Watts = Volts x
Michael Ross via EV wrote:
Here's what you need to SWAG the utility of PV panels on the truck...
Michael starts out strong, but wanders off before getting to the final
result. Let's try again.
Let's pick a PV panel as a test case. A quick Google search to "buy PV
panels" takes us to
Bobby Keeland via EV wrote:
I'm retired so don't have a daily commute, but it is 30 miles to my doctor,
dentist and whole foods for grocery shopping. I only drive when I need
something.
Same for me. I'm 65, and live in a small town. I can drive from one end
to the other and back again a few
On Mon Jan 18 21:33:31 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Lithiums are nice; but expensive. They also require a more expensive
>charger and battery management system.
With the price of Lead lately, Li batteries aren't that much more expensive.
>> An e-meter would be a definite.
>
>A good choice.
On Mon Jan 18 18:36:31 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>today have an advertised "peak power" of 200-300 watts. They are roughly
>3 feet x 6 feet (about the most you can get on a car or pickup), and
Well, if you made a bed cover for a full size truck, you could fit at least 2,
as you have about
>I like the LightObjects AH meter. Works well, much cheaper than an EMeter -
and with a much larger display.<
Link:
http://www.lightobject.com/Search.aspx?k=meter
For EVLN EV-newswire posts use:
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--
View this message in context:
This wiki page on MPGe lists the fuel consumption of production EVs in
kWh/100miles
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miles_per_gallon_gasoline_equivalent
The BMW i3 is the best at 124 mpg-e (27 kWh/100 mi)
Your truck might take double that. 54 kWh/100 mi. You want to go 70
miles, which will
On Wed Jan 13 07:05:47 PST 2016 ev@lists.evdl.org said:
>Meaning you may decide initially to go with the lower cost lead-acid (PbSO4)
>flooded batteries (i.e.: 24 T-105's in a box in the truck bed) but also
>consider what-if later you went for the taller t-145, or upgraded to li-ion
Nowadays,
[ref
http://electric-vehicle-discussion-list.413529.n4.nabble.com/Books-on-converting-a-car-to-ev-tp4679681.html
]
(Assumption: you love your 1951 Chevy pickup, else you would bag a cheap
used Leaf)
It would help us help you to know more about what you are trying to do. As
posted, how far you
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