Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low inductance/resistancemotors

2014-08-12 Thread Michael K Johnson via EV
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 11:24 PM, Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Yes, you need to remove the magnetic shunts. These are rectangular blocks of
 laminations tack-welded into the space between the primary and secondary.
 This restores the core to a normal E-I laminated stack.

I wasn't referring to the shunts. If you remove both the primary and secondary
in order to use the core to make an inductor, it would be hard to leave the
shunts in place, at least in my experience...  I meant the center bar of the
E, leaving  a C shape.

 Since the wire will be carrying 100s of amps, it needs to be very thick.
 It's hard to wind such thick wire. A better alternative is to use many
 smaller strands in parallel. Or, use a long strip of sheet copper flashing.
 Put a paper cuff around it, or tape or other insulation. The voltage per
 turn is low, so not much insulation is needed between turns.

For my spot welder, I found it difficult enough to wind three turns of two
parallel 8awg wires into the secondary space that I had cut out of a
1500W GE microwave oven transformer. That was before I found myself
with leftover 4awg welding cable from my tractor conversion, so if I use
that spot welder any more I'll probably change to the welding wire to
be able to carry more current and not get as hot. ☺
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Re: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low inductance/resistancemotors

2014-08-11 Thread Michael K Johnson via EV
Cor,

How many turns did you wind? I'm assuming you removed the center
portion of the EI in order to get a rectangular shape?

Adam,

Check http://www.geepglobal.com/locations/usa/north-carolina/ if you
don't find anything high-power on craigslist.

I suppose if you need more room for wire you could get two and discard
the I sections as well as the center bars of the E sections and hold
them together with the openings facing each other...


On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 5:51 PM, Cor van de Water via EV
ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
 Adam,
 I added a (free) inductor by wrapping the motor wires around the core of
 the biggest microwave transformer that I could find.
 You can pick up old microwaves most days from Craigslist and the like
 for free. I occasionally get one, disassemble it if I can't get it to
 work to give to a needy friend, so I have a stash of components to fix
 the next one.
 Note that it is required to put a very thin spacer between the two core
 halves to avoid saturation and you need something (I used a very large
 hose clamp plus 1 or 2 steel wires cross-wise along the core) to keep
 the two halves together and aligned.

 Cor van de Water
 Chief Scientist
 Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
 Email: cwa...@proxim.com Private: http://www.cvandewater.info
 Skype: cor_van_de_water Tel: +1 408 383 7626


 -Original Message-
 From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of Adam Chasen via
 EV
 Sent: Monday, August 11, 2014 2:16 PM
 To: ev@lists.evdl.org
 Subject: [EVDL] Protecting DC PWM Controller from low
 inductance/resistancemotors

 I recently purchased a 1980 Lectric Leopard (Renault 5 Le Car
 http://www.evalbum.com/190) with the following specifications:

 * original Presolite 6.7(?) series wound DC motor (presumably advanced
 for
 higher voltages)

 * 16kWh LiPo NMC packs in 24s4p arrangement for 90V nominal with 150A
 semiconductor on each of the 4 packs

 * Curtis 1231C controller with PB-6

 2 weeks ago I heard a loud pop as I depressed the throttle out of a
 rolling
 stop/turn and my voltmeter read 0. Seemed like my semiconductor fuses
 did
 the job and all 4 were popped ($100 worth of fuses mind you).
  Unfortunately in my distressed mindset I bypassed the fuse on one pack
 and
 the car lurched a few inches as soon as I flipped my breaker and then
 stopped (I know, bad call).

 I disassembled the Curtis controller and discovered 2 gently blown
 mosfets and 1 catastrophic mosfet failure. I ordered replacement
 mosfets
 IXTH50N20. One trace on the power board looks like it overheated and
 there
 appears to be some damage (a resistor?) on the control board. There is
 possibly damage to a trace in an internal layer, but not sure if it is a
 2
 layer board and some surface heating caused some damage.

 I have since swapped the Curtis out for a 750A Logisystems which I am
 aware
 are plagued with (similar?) issues. These failures appear to be due to
 low
 resistance/low inductance motors causing a overcurrent condition. The
 logisystems doesn't provide for a 1.5kHz during startup. That is a bit
 concerning as that was the workaround for the Curtis.

 I have since measured the motor side of the controller with an inrush
 current sensor and measured 645A max even with being very careful to
 slowly
 depress the throttle.

 My concern centers around this happening again, especially on my larger
 1989 BWM 535i with a directly coupled FB1-4001a motor. There are a few
 proposed solutions I read about and a few I came up with on my own which
 I
 am soliciting opinions on.

 A big unknown to me is how much resistance or inductance needs to be
 introduced to prevent this kind of inrush/runaway.

 One solution is to use the clutch in the Leopard to ensure there is no
 starting load on the motor. I still measured inrushes of 300A with no
 load! That will not work for my directly coupled 1989 BMW. I am curious
 if
 Lee Hart (with his Leopard) and others with series wound DC motors drive
 using the clutch. I have since modified my shifting behavior to much
 higher
 RPMs after reading some about his driving style.

 Another is to control the current with a large inductor. There was a lot
 of
 talk, but no pictures of these inductors. I am not sure how much
 inductance
 is necessary to help, but haven't done much research into this. There
 was
 some mention of using surplus transformers with insulated layers, but
 wasn't able to get a good picture in my head of size and process.
 Someone
 mentioned a 30 lbs choke on an older PMC, but that also doesn't provide
 me
 a good picture in my head other than it will likely be bigger than any
 non-power system transformer I have ever seen. Where can I get one (or
 the
 materials for) of these inductors and how much will the cost?

 There are two other passive electronic components which can control
 current
 I didn't see mentioned.

 * Resistors

 * Thermistor

 I am not sure about the practicality of using a thermistor for this
 purpose