EV Digest 2407
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: AC control power module
by Rich Rudman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Electric Scooters
by Bruce EVangel Parmenter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EVLN(GEM Comes to the Empire State)
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by "Sell, Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) EVDL - OT: Test message - please disregard
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
7) Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Tilleys Motor
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Tilleys Motor
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) RE: Need Curtis 1221B
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
13) CPPRTOP
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) NBEAA/EBEAA joint November meeting (Nov 9, 2002, 10am-12noon) announcement
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: VW Rabbit heater core
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: EMeter and Palm device
by keith bierman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) RE: EMeter and Palm device
by keith bierman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Fireworks
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Fireworks, fun stuff.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Fireworks, fun stuff. - inrush limiter
by "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by "Sell, Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: VW Rabbit heater core
by "Sell, Ken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Comutacar Contactor Points
by jon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) FYI: Cheap switchmode supplies
by Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Rod Hower wrote:
>
> That depends on what you install it on.
> I bet it would make a pretty scary mini bike from hell!
> Rod
Umm YEa!!!!!!
--
Rich Rudman
Manzanita Micro
www.manzanitamicro.com
1-360-297-7383,Cell 1-360-620-6266
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
James,
I am no small person either as many will confirm.
At Woodburn I drove the No Rad. I believe you will
be pleased with its performance.
http://www.evparts.com/firstpage.php
=====
' ____
~/__|o\__
'@----- @'---(=
. http://geocities.com/brucedp/
. EV List Editor & RE newswires
. (originator of the EV ascci art above)
=====
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken;
It shouldn't be necessary to remove the entire heater assembly in an '84
Rabbit *if* you have the non-A/C model. First check to see that you don't
have (and have never had) air conditioning. Non-A/C models have a single
air intake in the center of the rain tray (under the hood, in the bin
behind the engine compartment). There may be a plastic screen guard over
the intake, but the squirrel cage fan should be easy to see.
On this model, there will be a rectangular box attached to the left side of
the plastic heater housing under the dash, just above the accelerator
pedal. This is the door, which should pry off, being held in place by
plastic clips. It could be that your heater core has already been removed,
but that's where it goes.
Note that even if you install the electric heater core you *will not* have
any heat coming out of the two vents at the left and right sides of the
dash (the ones that face the occupants). These are "fresh air vents" only,
as they draw their supply from the air passage before the heater core.
On A/C models, there is an air intake port on the passenger side of the
rain tray, and some other ports for the refrigeration tubing, etc. I
understand that these heaters are a PITA to get apart and work on, and none
of my manuals (Bentley, Haynes) have any descriptions or photos of the A/C
heater assy.
Anyway, hope this helps some. If my Rabbit EV didn't have such a great
propane heater, I'd probably install the ceramic units also.
-S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
There was an ad in the Examiner(San Francisco) for the GEM 2 seater for 3700
dolllars. The Dealership is on 16th Street. Lawrence Rhodes...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce EVangel Parmenter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 11:56 PM
Subject: EVLN(GEM Comes to the Empire State)
> EVLN(GEM Comes to the Empire State)
> [The Internet Electric Vehicle List News. For Public EV
> informational purposes. Contact publication for reprint rights.]
> --- {EVangel}
> New Electric Vehicle Launched in NY; GEM Comes to the
> Empire State
>
> NEW YORK, Oct. 30 /PRNewswire/ -- New Yorkers have a new,
> clean and efficient way to get around their neighborhoods
> and the state with the introduction of Global Electric
> Motorcars, LLC Neighborhood Electric Vehicles (NEVs).
>
> The two- and four-passenger GEMs can be registered in New
> York State for operation on private property and public
> roads with speed limits up to 35 miles per hour. The
> five-horsepower GEMs, a federally approved low-speed vehicle
> (LSV), have a top speed, on road, of 25 miles per hour.
>
> According to GEM President Ken Montler, GEMs are ideal
> alternatives to a full-size automobile for short trips, as
> well on corporate, academic and military campuses,
> especially ones with both public and private roads between
> buildings.
>
> "The GEM was designed to operate in cities like Albany,
> Syracuse and Buffalo, as well as on college campuses and in
> state parks and recreation areas," said Montler. "They
> offer a great alternative to gasoline-powered vehicles, with
> lower maintenance costs, greater efficiency, no emissions
> and the ability to operate on tight, campus "roads," winding
> park turf paths and even inside buildings (where
> gasoline-powered vehicles cannot travel)."
>
> Smaller than a "normal" automobile, yet meeting safety
> requirements set by both the National Highway Safety
> Administration and New York with equipment like three-point
> seat belts, safety-glass windshield, wipers, headlights,
> turn signals, and mirrors, GEMs can maneuver into places
> cars cannot, yet still carry up to four people and their
> cargo.
>
> Recharging a GEM can be done at any standard 110-Volt
> outlet, which means the 35-mile (approximate) range can be
> extended simply by plugging into an outlet each time the
> vehicle reaches a destination. "And GEM users generally
> travel less than 10 miles a day, so recharging is not an
> issue," said Montler.
>
> New York becomes the 38th state to legalize on-road use of
> the GEMs, which began production four years ago in Fargo,
> ND. DaimlerChrysler, in December 2000, purchased Global
> Electric Motorcars, the largest United States producer of
> street-legal electric vehicles.
>
> GEMs sold in New York come with unique standard equipment
> including an integrated heater/defroster, rear license-plate
> light, reverse light, side-markers, center-high-mounted stop
> light, day/night rearview mirror and front-seat three-point
> seat belts.
>
> Further information is available at htpp://www.gemcar.com .
> SOURCE Global Electric Motorcars, LLC CO: Global Electric
> Motorcars, LLC ST: New York SU: PDT
> http://www.prnewswire.com 10/30/2002 11:30 EST
> -
>
>
>
> =====
> ' ____
> ~/__|o\__
> '@----- @'---(=
> . http://geocities.com/brucedp/
> . EV List Editor & RE newswires
> . (originator of the EV ascci art above)
> =====
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
> http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Sharkey,
Thanks for the info.
The layout of the rain tray sort of looks like
this picture of a VW pickup.
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/390e.jpg
Does this look like a non-A/C model?
I can put my hand and arm into the opening on the
upper-left and feel the squirrel cage fan in the middle.
Thanks,
....Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Sharkey [mailto:sharkey@;mrsharkey.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 12:54 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
Ken;
It shouldn't be necessary to remove the entire heater assembly in an '84
Rabbit *if* you have the non-A/C model. First check to see that you don't
have (and have never had) air conditioning. Non-A/C models have a single
air intake in the center of the rain tray (under the hood, in the bin
behind the engine compartment). There may be a plastic screen guard over
the intake, but the squirrel cage fan should be easy to see.
On this model, there will be a rectangular box attached to the left side of
the plastic heater housing under the dash, just above the accelerator
pedal. This is the door, which should pry off, being held in place by
plastic clips. It could be that your heater core has already been removed,
but that's where it goes.
Note that even if you install the electric heater core you *will not* have
any heat coming out of the two vents at the left and right sides of the
dash (the ones that face the occupants). These are "fresh air vents" only,
as they draw their supply from the air passage before the heater core.
On A/C models, there is an air intake port on the passenger side of the
rain tray, and some other ports for the refrigeration tubing, etc. I
understand that these heaters are a PITA to get apart and work on, and none
of my manuals (Bentley, Haynes) have any descriptions or photos of the A/C
heater assy.
Anyway, hope this helps some. If my Rabbit EV didn't have such a great
propane heater, I'd probably install the ceramic units also.
-S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
"David Roden (Akron OH USA)" wrote:
>
>
> VW also seem to have a less than enthusiastic attitude toward EVs these
> days. I read that the original plan for the new Beetle, when it was just a
> concept car, was to offer hybrid and/or pure electric options. That talk
> stopped rather suddenly when it came time to put it into serial production.
I know VW produced EV CiryStromers, but indeed no longer makes them:
http://www.metricmind.com/images/city_stromer.jpg
There is one in EV album for sale:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/160.html
It's also here, among other EV,s offered in Europe:
http://www.ct-werner.de/htm/emobil/utw/emobilov.htm#emobil_interesse
Victor
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A couple of weeks ago Tilley called me on the phone and asked for a
quote for Siemens AC drive system for their DeLorean...
Boy, that was a real surprise.
I asked what are they going to power it with, and he said, of course,
his magic over unity device.
I said fine, nut to support it, I heed to understand what it is so
a couple of hundreds of amps of regen current stuffed into this
devise at least won't blow it up.
He said something like his engineers think that it should be OK,
and inverter seemed to be too powerful for his needs, and then
he hanged up.
Victor
Rod Hower wrote:
>
> I finally figured out what Tilley 'thinks' he has.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Pulse_Motor_Group/
>
> These people build 'pulse' motors that they believe can run buy themselves
> but extracting energy from neutrino's.
>
> They have mentioned Tilleys car as a 'working' example of this.
>
> Bad science, instrumentation and interpretation in my opinion, but
> these people are avid believers.
>
> The truth is out there
>
> Morpheous: Neo, we are simply batteries to power the matrix.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor,
Your awesome drive system must be extracting
too many neutrinos in regen and could disrupt the
time space continuum. Sorry, couldn't resist.
I'm sure Carl is a true believer in his project
and doesn't want reality intervention.
Rod
Get in coppertop...
Victor Tikhonov wrote:
A couple of weeks ago Tilley called me on the phone and asked for a
quote for Siemens AC drive system for their DeLorean...
Boy, that was a real surprise.
I asked what are they going to power it with, and he said, of course,
his magic over unity device.
I said fine, nut to support it, I heed to understand what it is so
a couple of hundreds of amps of regen current stuffed into this
devise at least won't blow it up.
He said something like his engineers think that it should be OK,
and inverter seemed to be too powerful for his needs, and then
he hanged up.
Victor
Rod Hower wrote:
I finally figured out what Tilley 'thinks' he has.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Pulse_Motor_Group/
These people build 'pulse' motors that they believe can run buy themselves
but extracting energy from neutrino's.
They have mentioned Tilleys car as a 'working' example of this.
Bad science, instrumentation and interpretation in my opinion, but
these people are avid believers.
The truth is out there
Morpheous: Neo, we are simply batteries to power the matrix.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken;
Bad news (well sort of), you have the A/C version of the Rabbit heater. I
checked again in my manuals (all five of them) and there was no mention of
the heater core for the A/C in any of them.
I'll post a question over at the VW Vortex tonight and see what the A1
(Rabbit) experts over there have to say about it...
-S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Hi Bob: comments interspersed below - Chuck
>
Hi Chuck! I'll do the same!
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Rice <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, November 04, 2002 7:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
>
>
> > Hi Chuck, an' All;
> >
> > Had to break in on this one; I know how the vacuum brake
> thing can drive
> > you bonkers! The #$%^ RACKET of a vacuum pump. Do yu have a
> motor with a
> > shaft sticking out the Arm. end, like I do, a sort of PTO
> shaft? Good! If yu
> > do. Get an old Diesel Rabbit Vacuum pump, systen is used to it
> anyhow, it
> > will feel right at home plated to the front of the motor, belt
> driven, belt
> > it down, to ;LARGE pully, about 6 inches, biggest one that will
> fit in your
> > limited space, and, say 2" on the motor. After all the motor
> runs faster
> > than the Diseasel did, so sloooow it down as best yu can.
> Caviet here; The
> > pump USED to lube off the Diesel's oil system, so ya gotta open
> it up and
> > goop it down, in it's crankcase, with silicon grease, like
> from my last CV
> > joint repacking, That's what I had left over, seems to work. If
> it starts to
> > go dry, it did once,"-Eeek, Eeek, Eeek", it WILL tell you when
> it's unhappy.
> > Just crawl underneith, pull belt off, til yu get a chance to
> dose it again.
> > THEN ya appreciate what it duz for you. Just got a cheapo piece
> of plastic
> > line from True Value to run up to the Brake Vacuum pak. Yu
> still have that,
> > hopefully? You can muffle the 'Oink oink oink' of the "Output"
> side of the
> > pump with a few inches of the line, stuffed with cut up green
> "Scrubbie"
> > pads, a poor mans' 'Muffler"
>
> This sounds like it would be one way to deal with getting vacuum.
> Unfortunately, I do not have a shaft coming out the end of the
> motor. And I don't think it's an easy job to put one there
> either - the whole motor has to come apart, and put in a
> different rotor (?).
> >
Yeah! I have given this a thought, or two. Let me run this idea by
EVerybody on my idea for a fix here; What if ya pulled the armature, chucked
in a lathe and could centre-bore that end of the shaft, press a new shaft
into the hole, like TIGHT fit, maybe welding it in, cutting and grinding the
thing smooth. After all, yu arent trying to lite slicks with the torque at
this end, anyhow, so it doesn't hafta be that massive.Bet ya could get a
half in to nine sixteenth or so out of it.Enough to get a decent pully on
it.Or clutch.
> > Voila! No electrical system, tanks regulaters, any of that
> crap! And
> > SILENT! And when the pump diaphram dies you can BUY THEM at any
> VW place for
> > about 15 bux! My kind of vacuum pump, 15 minute, 6 bolt
> changeout as the
> > pump is MADE to be repaired, a very Un American concept! With
> 3300 tare
> > weight car yu need all the brakes yu can get! With me aboard,
> took kit and
> > RR work bag, figure car is over 3600 lbs. Scary! Yu bet, but it
> works for
> > me. Lots of thought of a newer car Evercells and AC drive,
> regen down our
> > 400 amp hills and STILL be under GVW, next time?
>
> When we took the car apart last summer (2001) for its upgrades
> and new batteries, we spent some time on the vacuum pump scene.
> I now have a muffler can and found a place to put it. You can
> hardly hear the pump at all. Another trick is to slice up a
> rubber hose coming off the pump's exhaust port. I don't know if
> the muffler can scene is superior. Maybe I'll do both! :-)
> >
> > It's getting to be winter here, cold, relattively speaking,
> in 20's at
> > nite when I come home, motor LOVES it, barely runs warm,
> batteries are doing
> > fine. But the car is ether driving or charging so they stay
> warm. One good
> > thing about 1400 lbs of lead. Plan to run all winter, except
> the snow and
> > slush, don't wanna weaken the body with rust. The trusty Sentra
> will be
> > pressed into service if it snows again in CT, this year.
>
> Yep, that 1400 lbs of lead is a lot coming down the road at you
> in a small car. My pack (96V of 6V floodeds) is about 1050lbs.
> The car can reasonably well handle it (note I don't need vacuum
> assist, even with all the hills around here, on a master cylinder
> meant for vacuum assist). Even when I was going 70mph last year
> on Hi101 down on the flats on the Peninsula (south of SF), and
> all of a sudden a wall of brake lights opened up in front of me,
> it hauled down, although it was a bit of an effort. Usually
> don't have to press all that hard. I also have carbon kevlar
> linings in the drums in the rear, and semi-metallics and vented
> slotted rotors for up front. Don't use the stock organic
> linings - they seem to be trash!
Sounds like yu get what you pay for. Where do you get the grabbier
pads?And Shoes?
It would be nice to have power
> brakes however. Nice soft light-touch feeling... What's left is
> the control circuit. I'm most likely to use the KTA vacuum
> switch - does just what I want (10-20psi hysterisis and is
> adjustable); only problem is that it is big. But I'll figure out
> something good for mounting and hosing it all up - just take my
> time.
>
> All this business about the EV naysayers saying lead-acid won't
> work, and therefore EVs won't work, in cold climates is a bunch
> of whooey. If you are driving and charging all the time, like
> you are, the batteries stay exercised and warm. If you need to,
> you can install battery heaters. And then, hey, NiMH works well
> where it's cold, and I think so does nicad. So there's lots of
> solutions, but what is missing is a CAN-DO attitude. The
> nay-sayers ought to learn from you and others on this list that
> it can be done. If we wait for the OEM boys to wave their hands
> and annoint electrics, we'll all be in our graves.
>
You have THAT right! That's why I drive electric. Would be easy to
just say "The hell with it" and drive a gas like everybody else. So I'll try
to make it more convenient to use. People at work see me get out and plug it
in. Easy. Am planning a automatic drive on charging deck at home, just park
car on it.Walk away. like a gas or Diseasel.
> You may not have as much of a problem with rust and rot if you
> are careful to keep the fenders flushed down at the car wash. I
> noticed in the winter when it rains here in NoCal, the front
> fenders (down along the seams) would tend to get packed with
> leaves, sand, and what have you spinning off the tires. I think
> all that stays damp and rots the paint and metal out. So when I
> have that packing up starting, I go down to the car wash and give
> 'er a good flush on the bottom and in the fenders, although I do
> now have a full-length bellypan, so that may change the logistics
> a bit. I've also been pondering how hard it would be to mount
> plastic wheel well inserts, like they have on newer cars, which
> might help with the fenders getting loaded up with crud, and also
> help with tire-induced turbulence up in the fenders. Sigh,
> another project to dream about...
> >
Good idea I'lk blast the hose up in the fenders more often, as I wash at
home.
> > Hope the above story can help others in the braking dept. OH
> yeah! Didn't
> > mention it before. The front grilles of Wabbits fiberglas off
> smooth, adding
> > a nice touch to yur conversion. Veery easy, quick way to seal
> off the
> > "engineroom" too. After all ,whatthehell DO you need a grille
> for, anyhow?
> > Grille crappy? JC Whitney sells nice Chinesey new ones for
> around 25 bux, as
> > I remember. Sand the plastic to get rid of the phony chrome, so
> yur "glas
> > resin will stick. Use the thick, fiberglas matt stuff, and ya
> only need one
> > pass. Bondo will fill in the imperfections. Sand it down nice
> and you can
> > get a job that looks nice. Get some Plasticote touch up spray
> cans to match
> > car's color. Good luck! A real afternoon "Feel Good" project.
> Like replacing
> > those plastic bumper ends on Rabbit, too.
>
> I'd like to see a picture of this, as I'm intrigued. I do have a
> grille block-off, as supplied in the kit, and the grille has been
> modified to make it all come together with the headlights behind
> the grille rather than sticking out as in the VoltsRabbit kit.
Got around that by grinding out hunks of the headlite support and
buckets. After all it is YOUR car, yu can hack as needed.
> >
I HAVE some pix on disc, I'll TRY to send them to you Stay tuned!
> > Seeya...in those short hops around town, Rabbit!
>
> Hope to run into ya sometime!, but not on the wrong end of that
> 1400lb pack!
>
Yeah, drop by when yur Out East! On the right end of the 1400 ton
pack<g>!
Bob
> Chuck Hursch
> Larkspur, CA
> www.geocities.com/nbeaa
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
An EAA member, Paul Rissman, who is not on the list, is looking for a
used 1221B controller for his electric US Electricar Escort wagon.
Please contact him directly at:
fyfchu-at-yahoo.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tuesday, November 5, 2002, at 11:23 PM, Rod Hower wrote:
Victor,
Your awesome drive system must be extracting
too many neutrinos in regen and could disrupt the
time space continuum. Sorry, couldn't resist.
I'm sure Carl is a true believer in his project
and doesn't want reality intervention.
Rod
Get in coppertop...
The plates on my S-10 conversion are "CPPRTOP" thought it was an
appropriate name for a 4,200 lb rolling battery :-) The Matrix
reference is a bonus!
Seth
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks for the tip, Sharkey!
----- Original Message -----
From: Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
> >I've also been pondering how hard it would be to mount
> >plastic wheel well inserts, like they have on newer cars
>
> Chuck, you're in luck! mid-80's Cabriolets have fenderwell
liners in front.
> They should pretty much be a bolt-up for any Rabbit. Check at
your local
> wrecking yard.
>
> -S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
A November joint meeting of the North Bay and East Bay chapters
of the Electric Auto Association will be held on Saturday
November 9th from 10am - 12 noon at Napa Premium Outlets in Napa.
Our speaker will be Ed Huestis, Electric Vehicle Program Manager
for the City of Vacaville. Ed will be describing the remarkable
achievements of his electric vehicle program in Vacaville,
including over 70 EV1s leased to residents, as well as some of
his own experiences driving the EV1. Other successes to be
outlined will include the extensive public charging
infrastructure already installed and planned for the near future;
also the recent installation of photovoltaic panels to generate
electricity at various sites in Vacaville.
Location:
Adjacent to the food court,
Napa Premium Outlets,
629 Factory Stores Drive, Napa, CA 94558
Date: 9th November from 10am-12 noon
Contact: Tracy Gee-Ege, Manager, Napa Premium Outlets
Tel: 707 226 9876
Driving directions:
Take the 1st street/Browns Valley Rd exit from Highway 29 in
Napa. Head West, away from downtown Napa. Almost immediately,
turn left on Freeway Drive, just after the Southbound on-ramp.
The outlet mall is adjacent to Hy 29 on the West side, less than
half a mile South on Freeway Drive.
1 Avcon and 1 large paddle inductive charger will be available.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sharkey,
Just to chime in here - hopefully I don't interrupt.
My EV is a 1980 unit with AC, so I have a big black box under the
dash with one or two pipes coming out the passenger side. I
guess the evap unit is in this box. Mostly I'd like to get rid
of this box and its contents (might save a few pounds) and open
up some space in front of the shifter unit (some space to put one
of those fancy Rudman PFC chargers? ;-)). I'd plan on putting a
cover over the place where the box detaches (there are several
screw there). Hopefully pulling that out wouldn't affect the fan
or anything. I haven't tackled this project since it looks like
I might have to remove the kneebar, which would be a bit of work,
since it got put back on with some ElectroAutomotive cabling and
wiring attached to it. Of course, the factory manual doesn't
seem to help much in this regard.
By the way, if this helps anybody, when we converted my car, I
had to jumper two plugs in the dash to get the fan going again.
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
> Ken;
>
> Bad news (well sort of), you have the A/C version of the Rabbit
heater. I
> checked again in my manuals (all five of them) and there was no
mention of
> the heater core for the A/C in any of them.
>
> I'll post a question over at the VW Vortex tonight and see what
the A1
> (Rabbit) experts over there have to say about it...
>
> -S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> From: Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> =
> I'm going to buy a Palm or similar device
> for logging data from the Emeter.
> Cost is a factor but not the top one.
> I want to make sure there is enough memory to record everything.
> If the consensus is the Palm 105 is enough I'll buy it and be happy.
> What is the recommendation of the list?
I find the m100 (2mb) has ample memory for my commute (under an hour),
address book and calendar. Bit tight for ebooks.
The advantage of cheap is that it's not such a risk to leave it in the
vehicle (if you haven't put things in the address or calendar that you
wouldn't mind getting out ... I haven't tested the security, but suspect
it's not so tight that a determined assault wouldn't have a good chance
of succeeding.
--
Keith H. Bierman [EMAIL PROTECTED]| 650-352-4432 voice+fax
Sun Microsystems Laboratories | sun internal 68207
15 Network Circle UMPK 15-224 |
Menlo Park, California 94025 | [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<speaking for myself, not Sun*> Copyright 2002
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lesley wrote:
> There may be other non-specific logging applications around. Places to
> look include http://www.palmgear.com and http://groups.google.com (look
> in comp.sys.palmtops.pilot and related newsgroups). You might even be
> able to use a simple terminal emulation app, if there is one that does
> text capture.
There are several. I used a couple to debug some connections (ptelnet
and a vt100 emulator come to mind). However, EVdash does a fine job, and
with some appropriate choice of "record margins" the data stored during
charging goes down from thousands to a couple of hundred.
>
> One other thing to bear in mind, if you want to do any useful analysis
> of the data you capture, you will probably need to extract it from the
> Palm and dump it into a spreadsheet or a database. Typically, Palm
> application data is backed up onto a PC when you synchronise it, but the
> copy on the PC is in Palm format.
EVdash has an "export to memo" feature. It's easy to then cut and paste
the individual memo onto a host based spreadsheet or graphics program
(e.g. staroffice, gnuplot , etc.)
--
Keith H. Bierman [EMAIL PROTECTED]| 650-352-4432 voice+fax
Sun Microsystems Laboratories | sun internal 68207
15 Network Circle UMPK 15-224 |
Menlo Park, California 94025 | [EMAIL PROTECTED]
<speaking for myself, not Sun*> Copyright 2002
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I received this message last night from a friend of mine who isn't on the EV
list.
He drives a Jet-converted Subaru van. When he got it, the Todd DC:DC was
mounted in the rear near the motor. This left it exposed to moisture and
road dirt, which I don't think was too good for it (Todds aren't really
designed for that kind of environment).
I'm not sure what (if anything) the potbox has to do with this, except that
he's had 2 or 3 potbox failures so far.
------- Forwarded message follows -------
Hi David! I was driving home from voting and the Bus broke!
Almost home and raining. I got out my multi meter , opened the rear
hatch to check for power. I turned on the key and was looking over the
wiring when the main contactor pulled in and the DC/DC converter exploded in
a shower of sparks and fire!!! Very dramatic! The main stayed in and I
drove home. Ordered a new DC/DC and accelerator pot.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
1991 Solectria Force 144vac
1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all
thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee.
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: David Roden (Akron OH USA) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:20 AM
Subject: Fireworks
> I received this message last night from a friend of mine who isn't on the
EV
> list.
>
> He drives a Jet-converted Subaru van. When he got it, the Todd DC:DC was
> mounted in the rear near the motor. This left it exposed to moisture and
> road dirt, which I don't think was too good for it (Todds aren't really
> designed for that kind of environment).
>
> I'm not sure what (if anything) the potbox has to do with this, except
that
> he's had 2 or 3 potbox failures so far.
>
> Hi David an' All;
This seems to be a Todd Trait. First DC to dc Todd I had, when Tony and
I connected it, first time, expired in a flaming smoky show of "I'm NOT
happy here !" outburst. After the smoke show ,it got sorta a dare to connect
the next one, as yu Todd fans know, there is a pretty good "Snap!" whenya
hook them up, as there must be a capaciter in there that charges at inrush
of DC. But ya gotta connect them up to get them to work, so ya grit your
teeth and DO it!
But that's the first thing in Todd care and feeding. They, like cats,
like clean dry places!! Will remind you if they are unhappy.
Seeyu .through the smoke!
Bob
> ------- Forwarded message follows -------
>
> Hi David! I was driving home from voting and the Bus broke!
> Almost home and raining. I got out my multi meter , opened the rear
> hatch to check for power. I turned on the key and was looking over the
> wiring when the main contactor pulled in and the DC/DC converter exploded
in
> a shower of sparks and fire!!! Very dramatic! The main stayed in and I
> drove home. Ordered a new DC/DC and accelerator pot.
>
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> 1991 Solectria Force 144vac
> 1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
> 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
> 1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all
> thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee.
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ken;
The message I posted in the Vortex:
>This is a cross-over from another list that I frequent (OK, it's from an EV
>list).
>One of the members wants to know how to access the heater core in his
>Rabbit conversion. He has an air conditioning-equipped '84. The Bentley
>doesn't give any details about the heater core, is it the same unit as the
>non-A/C, only with the evaporator unit at the intake?
Here's what I got in reply so far:
>NO the AC core sits vertically and the two pipes come out of one corner at
>90 degrees to the plane of the core (think of the letter "F"). the non AC
IIRC
>is oriented differently...the pipes lie in the same plane as the core itself.
>
>a note about the AC equipped cars, I cut a vertical "slot" on the side down
>by the driver's ankle to slide the core out and replace it w/o removing
dash,
>htr box, splitting the box, etc. I then fashioned a little replacement plate
>that i screwed on and sealed up w/ duct tape. ghetto, but i just replaced
the
>core for the SECOND time a few weeks ago, and i sure was glad I did my
>little mod the first time.
So, it looks like you are going up against the dreaded A/C removal ordeal.
I did have one thought, how about if you were to lace the creamic cores in
the position formerly occupied by the evaporator for the A/C? This should
be more easily accessable, and it would provied heat to *all* of the vents,
unlike putting it where the original heater core was.
If you want to follow any addtional replies to this inquiry, the URL is
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=572353
Good luck!
-S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob,
I'm not familiar with the Todd DC/DC, but to keep inrush current low,
connect
an NTC (negative temperature coefficient) resistor in series with battery
positive.
One source for these is www.ametherm.com
http://www.ametherm.com/Inrush_Current/welcome.html
This page has a nice graph showing you the difference with and without an
inrush surge limiter.
Something like a SL3210015 would work nicely.
http://www.ametherm.com/Data%20Sheets/SL32%2010015.pdf
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
Thanks for the info.
My car's fan also doesn't work. I haven't
investigated the problem yet. What did
you mean,
"I had to jumper two plugs in the dash
to get the fan going again"
Thanks again for the help.
....Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Hursch [mailto:chursch@;yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 10:06 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: VW Rabbit heater core
Sharkey,
Just to chime in here - hopefully I don't interrupt.
My EV is a 1980 unit with AC, so I have a big black box under the
dash with one or two pipes coming out the passenger side. I
guess the evap unit is in this box. Mostly I'd like to get rid
of this box and its contents (might save a few pounds) and open
up some space in front of the shifter unit (some space to put one
of those fancy Rudman PFC chargers? ;-)). I'd plan on putting a
cover over the place where the box detaches (there are several
screw there). Hopefully pulling that out wouldn't affect the fan
or anything. I haven't tackled this project since it looks like
I might have to remove the kneebar, which would be a bit of work,
since it got put back on with some ElectroAutomotive cabling and
wiring attached to it. Of course, the factory manual doesn't
seem to help much in this regard.
By the way, if this helps anybody, when we converted my car, I
had to jumper two plugs in the dash to get the fan going again.
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:26 PM
Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
> Ken;
>
> Bad news (well sort of), you have the A/C version of the Rabbit
heater. I
> checked again in my manuals (all five of them) and there was no
mention of
> the heater core for the A/C in any of them.
>
> I'll post a question over at the VW Vortex tonight and see what
the A1
> (Rabbit) experts over there have to say about it...
>
> -S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Sharkey,
Thanks for the info.
I'll check out the vwvortex group, but
this is sounding like more of a project
that I can handle.
Since I mostly want heat for defrosting,
I think I'll take a look at using a
hair dryer, as mentioned by people in
a few other posts.
Thanks again for the help.
....Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: Sharkey [mailto:sharkey@;mrsharkey.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 9:38 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
Ken;
The message I posted in the Vortex:
>This is a cross-over from another list that I frequent (OK, it's from an EV
>list).
>One of the members wants to know how to access the heater core in his
>Rabbit conversion. He has an air conditioning-equipped '84. The Bentley
>doesn't give any details about the heater core, is it the same unit as the
>non-A/C, only with the evaporator unit at the intake?
Here's what I got in reply so far:
>NO the AC core sits vertically and the two pipes come out of one corner at
>90 degrees to the plane of the core (think of the letter "F"). the non AC
IIRC
>is oriented differently...the pipes lie in the same plane as the core itself.
>
>a note about the AC equipped cars, I cut a vertical "slot" on the side down
>by the driver's ankle to slide the core out and replace it w/o removing
dash,
>htr box, splitting the box, etc. I then fashioned a little replacement plate
>that i screwed on and sealed up w/ duct tape. ghetto, but i just replaced
the
>core for the SECOND time a few weeks ago, and i sure was glad I did my
>little mod the first time.
So, it looks like you are going up against the dreaded A/C removal ordeal.
I did have one thought, how about if you were to lace the creamic cores in
the position formerly occupied by the evaporator for the A/C? This should
be more easily accessable, and it would provied heat to *all* of the vents,
unlike putting it where the original heater core was.
If you want to follow any addtional replies to this inquiry, the URL is
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=572353
Good luck!
-S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For those of you interested and in the area,
"Paul MacCready, Ph. D., a world-renowned expert in aeronautics and
meteorology, will give a talk at WPI titled "Energy of the Future" on
Nov. 11.
Paul MacCready is the founder and Chairman of AeroVironment, a leader
in the development of unmanned aerial vehicles, energy efficient
systems and electrical vehicle systems. ***In 1990, MacCready's
AeroVironment team developed the GE Impact, the first modern electric
car, and predecessor to GE's EV-1.*** In 1998, they successfully sent
their unmanned Helios plane 96,863 feet into the stratosphere, breaking
the world's record for achieving the highest altitude for jet- and
propeller-powered aircraft. In July 2002, in collaboration with NASA
and Japan's Post and Telecommunications Ministry, MacCready's team
successfully tested the first commercial telecommunications
applications from the stratosphere from the unmanned, solar-powered
Pathfinder Plus."
November 11, 2002
3:00 - 4:00 p.m.
Room 107 Olin Hall
Open to the public
See some of you there?
Seth
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My Comutacar's contactor points, have, well, seen better days. So, I am
looking for replacements. I've looked at forklift contactors, and did not
find the correct fit.
So, does anyone have any good leads for new ones? How about the folks that
are parting out their comutacar (or citicar, I think the contactors are
the same)? I wouldn't mind have a couple complete spares.
Thanks!
Jon
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
Keith
--- End Message ---
