EV Digest 2408
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by Marty Bernard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by Jim Coate <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4) Re: Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by Seth Murray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Paul MacCready to speak at WPI
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Cheap switchmode supplies
by "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) E-meter Software on PocketPC
by Edward Ang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Cheap switchmode supplies
by "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: Comutacar Contactor Points
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) electrovair
by "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Comutacar Contactor Points
by "Rod Hower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Cheap switchmode supplies
by Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: Cheap switchmode supplies
by Keith Richtman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Fireworks, fun stuff.
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: VW Rabbit heater core
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
by "Chuck Hursch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Battery warming
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Cheap switchmode supplies
by Rod Hower <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Theoretical range/performance
by Matthew Muelver <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Newbie question re: Rabbit conversions
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) VW donor questions
by michael bearden <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Rudman reg madness
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: Rudman reg madness
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Sparrow down again (still?)
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: Rudman reg madness
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: VW donor questions
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
27) RE: Theoretical range/performance
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
28) Toyota Celicas
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: Rudman reg madness
by "Joe Smalley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
30) Re: Rudman reg madness
by "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
31) Re: Fireworks
by "1sclunn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
Where is Olin Hall? A state would be a good hint!
Seth Murray wrote:
> For those of you interested and in the area,
>
> "Paul MacCready, Ph. D., a world-renowned expert in aeronautics and
> meteorology, will give a talk at WPI titled "Energy of the Future" on
> Nov. 11.
>
> Paul MacCready is the founder and Chairman of AeroVironment, a leader
> in the development of unmanned aerial vehicles, energy efficient
> systems and electrical vehicle systems. ***In 1990, MacCready's
> AeroVironment team developed the GE Impact, the first modern electric
> car, and predecessor to GE's EV-1.*** In 1998, they successfully sent
> their unmanned Helios plane 96,863 feet into the stratosphere, breaking
> the world's record for achieving the highest altitude for jet- and
> propeller-powered aircraft. In July 2002, in collaboration with NASA
> and Japan's Post and Telecommunications Ministry, MacCready's team
> successfully tested the first commercial telecommunications
> applications from the stratosphere from the unmanned, solar-powered
> Pathfinder Plus."
>
> November 11, 2002
> 3:00 - 4:00 p.m.
> Room 107 Olin Hall
> Open to the public
>
> See some of you there?
>
> Seth
>
> --
> QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
>
> http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--
*********************************************************************
Martin J. Bernard III, Ph.D.
Executive Director
National Station Car Association
Oakland, California
http://www.stncar.com
Information Exchange
Technical Support in Developing Station-Car and Shared-Car Programs
Assistance in Developing Funding
*********************************************************************
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
If you start driving now, you should have plenty of time to get there...
WPI is Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Worcester, Massachusetts.
See http://www.wpi.edu/News/Events/Various/testplane.html for details on
the event and the speaker.
Marty Bernard wrote:
Where is Olin Hall? A state would be a good hint!
_________
Jim Coate
1992 Chevy S10
1970's Elec-Trak
http://www.eeevee.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Troy, New York???
11/6/02 1:05:11 PM, Marty Bernard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Where is Olin Hall? A state would be a good hint!
>
>Seth Murray wrote:
>
>> For those of you interested and in the area,
>>
>> "Paul MacCready, Ph. D., a world-renowned expert in aeronautics and
>> meteorology, will give a talk at WPI titled "Energy of the Future" on
>> Nov. 11.
>>
>> Paul MacCready is the founder and Chairman of AeroVironment, a leader
>> in the development of unmanned aerial vehicles, energy efficient
>> systems and electrical vehicle systems. ***In 1990, MacCready's
>> AeroVironment team developed the GE Impact, the first modern electric
>> car, and predecessor to GE's EV-1.*** In 1998, they successfully sent
>> their unmanned Helios plane 96,863 feet into the stratosphere, breaking
>> the world's record for achieving the highest altitude for jet- and
>> propeller-powered aircraft. In July 2002, in collaboration with NASA
>> and Japan's Post and Telecommunications Ministry, MacCready's team
>> successfully tested the first commercial telecommunications
>> applications from the stratosphere from the unmanned, solar-powered
>> Pathfinder Plus."
>>
>> November 11, 2002
>> 3:00 - 4:00 p.m.
>> Room 107 Olin Hall
>> Open to the public
>>
>> See some of you there?
>>
>> Seth
>>
>> --
>> QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
>>
>> http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
>> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
>
>--
>*********************************************************************
>
>Martin J. Bernard III, Ph.D.
>Executive Director
>National Station Car Association
>Oakland, California
>http://www.stncar.com
>
>Information Exchange
>Technical Support in Developing Station-Car and Shared-Car Programs
>Assistance in Developing Funding
>
>*********************************************************************
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
oops, sorry. As Jim Coate was kind enough to post, WPI is Worcester
Polytechnic Institute here in Worcester, Massachusetts.
Details at http://www.wpi.edu/News/Events/Various/testplane.html
Driving Directions at http://www.wpi.edu/About/Visitors/directions.html
Seth
On Wednesday, November 6, 2002, at 01:45 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Troy, New York???
11/6/02 1:05:11 PM, Marty Bernard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Where is Olin Hall? A state would be a good hint!
Seth Murray wrote:
For those of you interested and in the area,
"Paul MacCready, Ph. D., a world-renowned expert in aeronautics and
meteorology, will give a talk at WPI titled "Energy of the Future" on
Nov. 11.
Paul MacCready is the founder and Chairman of AeroVironment, a leader
in the development of unmanned aerial vehicles, energy efficient
systems and electrical vehicle systems. ***In 1990, MacCready's
AeroVironment team developed the GE Impact, the first modern electric
car, and predecessor to GE's EV-1.*** In 1998, they successfully sent
their unmanned Helios plane 96,863 feet into the stratosphere,
breaking
the world's record for achieving the highest altitude for jet- and
propeller-powered aircraft. In July 2002, in collaboration with NASA
and Japan's Post and Telecommunications Ministry, MacCready's team
successfully tested the first commercial telecommunications
applications from the stratosphere from the unmanned, solar-powered
Pathfinder Plus."
November 11, 2002
3:00 - 4:00 p.m.
Room 107 Olin Hall
Open to the public
See some of you there?
Seth
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--
*********************************************************************
Martin J. Bernard III, Ph.D.
Executive Director
National Station Car Association
Oakland, California
http://www.stncar.com
Information Exchange
Technical Support in Developing Station-Car and Shared-Car Programs
Assistance in Developing Funding
*********************************************************************
--
QUESTION INTERNAL COMBUSTION
http://users.wpi.edu/~sethm/
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/387.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seth Murray wrote:
>
> For those of you interested and in the area,
>
> "Paul MacCready, Ph. D., a world-renowned expert in aeronautics and
> meteorology, will give a talk at WPI titled "Energy of the Future" on
> Nov. 11.
>
> Paul MacCready is the founder and Chairman of AeroVironment, a leader
> in the development of unmanned aerial vehicles, energy efficient
> systems and electrical vehicle systems. ***In 1990, MacCready's
> AeroVironment team developed the GE Impact, the first modern electric
> car, and predecessor to GE's EV-1.*** In 1998, they successfully sent
> their unmanned Helios plane 96,863 feet into the stratosphere, breaking
> the world's record for achieving the highest altitude for jet- and
> propeller-powered aircraft. In July 2002, in collaboration with NASA
> and Japan's Post and Telecommunications Ministry, MacCready's team
> successfully tested the first commercial telecommunications
> applications from the stratosphere from the unmanned, solar-powered
> Pathfinder Plus."
>
> November 11, 2002
> 3:00 - 4:00 p.m.
> Room 107 Olin Hall
> Open to the public
>
> See some of you there?
1. It might help to identify where this meeting will be. I have no
idea where "WPI" might be.
2. The "Impact" EV was built for GM (General Motors), not GE (General
Electric).
3. The Impact is not the "first modern electric car". General Motors
own 1966 "Electrovair" EVs had the same 3-phase AC solid-state
inverter, oil-cooled induction motor, single-speed transaxle, high
voltage battery pack, etc. Its size, weight, range, and top speed
were virtually identical to the Impact and lead-acid EV1.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
This is just the kind of help the list is all about. I have found numerous
deals thru the list and have turned others on to places just like Excess
Solutions. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:51 AM
Subject: FYI: Cheap switchmode supplies
> I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
> as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
> incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
> are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
> from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
> Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
>
> Keith
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Someone sent me an email regarding my version of the
software which runs on PocketPC. He has a Compaq Aero
1550. But, I deleted his email by accident because I
don't usually use Yahoo as my regular email. Can you
please send the email again to EdAng (at)
movingcam.com?
Sorry!
Ed Ang
__________________________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
HotJobs - Search new jobs daily now
http://hotjobs.yahoo.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thanks to Keith for the link, I ordered a couple for home use (quick
scooter charge) and I think
we'll buy 10 for work.
Rod
This is just the kind of help the list is all about. I have found numerous
deals thru the list and have turned others on to places just like Excess
Solutions. Lawrence Rhodes....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:51 AM
Subject: FYI: Cheap switchmode supplies
> I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
> as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
> incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
> are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
> from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
> Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
>
> Keith
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
jon wrote:
>
> My Comutacar's contactor points, have, well, seen better days. So, I am
> looking for replacements. I've looked at forklift contactors, and did not
> find the correct fit.
>
> So, does anyone have any good leads for new ones? How about the folks that
> are parting out their comutacar (or citicar, I think the contactors are
> the same)? I wouldn't mind have a couple complete spares.
The CitiCar, ComutaCar, and ComutaVan all used H-B brand contactors. H-B
was bought out by Prestolite. These same contactors have been sold for
something like 40 years now. They have replaceable contacts, and it
should be no problem at all to get parts for them at any place that
sells parts or services golf carts.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Lee,
I never heard of this vehicle before, but after a quick search I found
http://www.corvaircorsa.com/monzapr7.html
Very interesting.
Rod
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Do you have a part number?
Ametek owns that division of Prestolite
I could see if we have anything laying around.
Rod
jon wrote:
>
> My Comutacar's contactor points, have, well, seen better days. So, I am
> looking for replacements. I've looked at forklift contactors, and did not
> find the correct fit.
>
> So, does anyone have any good leads for new ones? How about the folks
that
> are parting out their comutacar (or citicar, I think the contactors are
> the same)? I wouldn't mind have a couple complete spares.
The CitiCar, ComutaCar, and ComutaVan all used H-B brand contactors. H-B
was bought out by Prestolite. These same contactors have been sold for
something like 40 years now. They have replaceable contacts, and it
should be no problem at all to get parts for them at any place that
sells parts or services golf carts.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
From: "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
> as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
> incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
> are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
> from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
> Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
Sure, this is a great use for the EV list.
Remember that this type of switching power supply is a constant-voltage
power supply, not a battery charger. You may find it to be hard on your
battery, especially if left on a long time. You may also find that if
the battery is too deeply discharged, the power supply won't be able to
start charging it -- it will immediately shutdown due to over-current.
--
Lee A. Hart Ring the bells that still can ring
814 8th Ave. N. Forget your perfect offering
Sartell, MN 56377 USA There is a crack in everything
leeahart_at_earthlink.net That's how the light gets in - Leonard Cohen
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Glad I could help guys. Get them quick though, Rod is going to buy
half of the stock:-) Lee, the battery pack will be flooded nicad and
I have manufacturer documentation that says CV is an acceptable way
to charge them. Hopefully I won't run into an issue with
over-current shutdowns, I will cross that bridge if I reach it.
Keith
At 3:18 PM -0800 11/6/02, Lee Hart wrote:
From: "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
> from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
Sure, this is a great use for the EV list.
Remember that this type of switching power supply is a constant-voltage
power supply, not a battery charger. You may find it to be hard on your
battery, especially if left on a long time. You may also find that if
the battery is too deeply discharged, the power supply won't be able to
start charging it -- it will immediately shutdown due to over-current.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Rice wrote:
> > Hi David an' All;
>
> This seems to be a Todd Trait. First DC to dc Todd I had,
when Tony and
> I connected it, first time, expired in a flaming smoky show of
"I'm NOT
> happy here !" outburst. After the smoke show ,it got sorta a
dare to connect
> the next one, as yu Todd fans know, there is a pretty good
"Snap!" whenya
> hook them up, as there must be a capaciter in there that
charges at inrush
> of DC. But ya gotta connect them up to get them to work, so ya
grit your
> teeth and DO it!
The good "POP!" and shower of sparks was my first experience with
my Todd 75A unit when I went to hook it up to a 12V battery (I
have (did, actually)) this unit on my deck charging batteries,
not in my car. Fortunately, hooking up through Anderson SB-50
contacts solves this problem. The AC plug-in can also result in
a pretty good snap. My practise for most of the Todd's life has
been to plug in the AC side first, let everything get built up in
the caps, then hook up the DC.
>
> But that's the first thing in Todd care and feeding. They,
like cats,
> like clean dry places!! Will remind you if they are unhappy.
Unfortunately, my Todd is somewhat unhappy, as I hear many of
them are out there. I think mine, though, may be better off than
many. The DC voltage is unstable. If everything is hunky-dory,
if I crank the pot fully clockwise, I'll get ~16.40V unloaded,
staying that way for any number of days. However, what started
happening a couple of years ago is that this voltage would start
to drift, moving the whole range of the pot adjustment up and
down. I could usually get the voltage back up by doing a
"conditioning" ;-> run, running the charger into a resistor, at
say either 40A or 70A, depending on how gung-ho I was. After
half an hour or so of this, the charger would be noticeably
warmer (fan running), and the voltage would be back up. Checked
the pot, and it appears within spec (ohms inverse of voltage -
250 to 0 ohms). It appears that to pull the circuit boards out
of the charger is rather a bear, with lots of wires, and what
looks like (ground?) hooks at the bottom of the cards. Also have
been told that this maybe a cap problem, or perhaps a circuit
trace thermal problem (which I may or may not find after taking
this puppy apart, hopefully without destroying it). I'm told
that there has been some discussion of Todd problems on this
list, but still have to go diggin', and maybe there is some stuff
out on the internet. Anybody on the list with connections or
knowledge of Todd repairs?
Thanks,
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi Ken,
On my car, back behind the speedometer (and you could probably
see them from under the dash), there were two white cube-like
objects with slots that wire tabs go into. I had to jumper two
of these together with a single wire. I did this reluctantly
after carefully studying the wiring diagrams and not seeing any
other way to do it. It certainly got the fan going with no arcs
or sparks or blown fuses. I took a picture of this arrangement,
which while I don't have a scanner handy, I could probably get an
image copy made and either post it on the internet or send it to
you, if it would help.
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Sell, Ken <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
> My car's fan also doesn't work. I haven't
> investigated the problem yet. What did
> you mean,
>
> "I had to jumper two plugs in the dash
> to get the fan going again"
>
> Thanks again for the help.
>
> ....Ken
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chuck Hursch [mailto:chursch@;yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 10:06 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: VW Rabbit heater core
>
>
> Sharkey,
>
> Just to chime in here - hopefully I don't interrupt.
>
> My EV is a 1980 unit with AC, so I have a big black box under
the
> dash with one or two pipes coming out the passenger side. I
> guess the evap unit is in this box. Mostly I'd like to get rid
> of this box and its contents (might save a few pounds) and open
> up some space in front of the shifter unit (some space to put
one
> of those fancy Rudman PFC chargers? ;-)). I'd plan on putting
a
> cover over the place where the box detaches (there are several
> screw there). Hopefully pulling that out wouldn't affect the
fan
> or anything. I haven't tackled this project since it looks
like
> I might have to remove the kneebar, which would be a bit of
work,
> since it got put back on with some ElectroAutomotive cabling
and
> wiring attached to it. Of course, the factory manual doesn't
> seem to help much in this regard.
>
> By the way, if this helps anybody, when we converted my car, I
> had to jumper two plugs in the dash to get the fan going again.
>
> Chuck Hursch
> Larkspur, CA
> www.geocities.com/nbeaa
> http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sharkey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 6:26 PM
> Subject: RE: VW Rabbit heater core
>
>
> > Ken;
> >
> > Bad news (well sort of), you have the A/C version of the
Rabbit
> heater. I
> > checked again in my manuals (all five of them) and there was
no
> mention of
> > the heater core for the A/C in any of them.
> >
> > I'll post a question over at the VW Vortex tonight and see
what
> the A1
> > (Rabbit) experts over there have to say about it...
> >
> > -S
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bob Rice wrote:
>
[snip]
> > This sounds like it would be one way to deal with getting
vacuum.
> > Unfortunately, I do not have a shaft coming out the end of
the
> > motor. And I don't think it's an easy job to put one there
> > either - the whole motor has to come apart, and put in a
> > different rotor (?).
> > >
>
> Yeah! I have given this a thought, or two. Let me run
this idea by
> EVerybody on my idea for a fix here; What if ya pulled the
armature, chucked
> in a lathe and could centre-bore that end of the shaft, press a
new shaft
> into the hole, like TIGHT fit, maybe welding it in, cutting and
grinding the
> thing smooth. After all, yu arent trying to lite slicks with
the torque at
> this end, anyhow, so it doesn't hafta be that massive.Bet ya
could get a
> half in to nine sixteenth or so out of it.Enough to get a
decent pully on
> it.Or clutch.
Maybe the strongest Loctite would suffice to keep that shaft
press-fitted in.
>
I'd bet that power steering would also be nice :-) in a car with
a 1400-lb pack! Don't know if you have that in your car, but
some people power that off the motor, although it's probably
better done with a separate electric motor.
[snip]
> > Yep, that 1400 lbs of lead is a lot coming down the road at
you
> > in a small car. My pack (96V of 6V floodeds) is about
1050lbs.
> > The car can reasonably well handle it (note I don't need
vacuum
> > assist, even with all the hills around here, on a master
cylinder
> > meant for vacuum assist). Even when I was going 70mph last
year
> > on Hi101 down on the flats on the Peninsula (south of SF),
and
> > all of a sudden a wall of brake lights opened up in front of
me,
> > it hauled down, although it was a bit of an effort. Usually
> > don't have to press all that hard. I also have carbon kevlar
> > linings in the drums in the rear, and semi-metallics and
vented
> > slotted rotors for up front. Don't use the stock organic
> > linings - they seem to be trash!
>
> Sounds like yu get what you pay for. Where do you get the
grabbier
> pads?And Shoes?
Well, the rears (which probably don't do much for panic stops,
but it's nice to be able to stop the car with the emergency brake
on my hill if I had to) are carbon-kevlar linings and shoes that
you can order (or at least used to be able to) from Porterfield
(if you want the number I can dig the catalog out). The person
who helped me convert the car helped me put in those
shoes/linings. Front ones are vented rotors and semi-metallic
"rotor-eater" pads that my mechanic put in for me. I had been
angling to get carbon-kevlars up front too, but my car was in the
shop for some other work, and apparently I hadn't been watching
the old organic linings closely enough, and was just about down
to the rivets on the organic linings on the inside shoes. They
weren't really wanting to let me out of the shop without getting
the brakes dealt with, and after some humming and hawing, I got
the current stuff on the front. Only thing I notice is that the
fronts take just a bit of warm-up, which ain't far going down my
hill - takes only a few feet, and you can feel those linings
start grabbing.
>
[snip]
> I HAVE some pix on disc, I'll TRY to send them to you Stay
tuned!
Appreciate seeing them, or if you have a website to throw them up
on - save postage. - Thanks!
>
Chuck Hursch
Larkspur, CA
www.geocities.com/nbeaa
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/339.html
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I used some of the Pipe Heating cable that Lee mentioned. I bought a 100'
roll from DoitBest.Com for $158.
This stuff seems to be working pretty well. It's been keeping the battery
compartment at about 68 deg F even when it was 30 outside.
Since I couldn't figure out a good way to hold the cable to the batteries,
I made heating pads that I put under the batteries. This consists of a
piece of 1/4" thick plywood, with a 3/8" wide, 3/16" deep groove for the
cable spiraling across the surface of the board. (routers are very useful!)
I made a board for each cluster of batteries, and wire them all
together. Seems to draw about .7 A from 120VAC after it's all warmed
up. Draws a bit over 1 A when plugged in with a cold pack.
I'll try to post some pictures soon.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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--- Begin Message ---
This is a very important point that I didn't mention
in my post about using it for the scooter.
The power supply should be current and voltage limited,
but not for charging a battery.
I use my extra TEVan charger for pumping 55 amps into
my golf cart. It's current limited, but it would keep on
dumping 55 amps since the voltage won't go above 68V on my 48V
golf cart. This sounds like high voltage for a 48V system, but
the NiCd's (SAFT STM-180) spike up quite high above 90% charge
with high current. I 'babysit' this charger setup and shut it down
soon after seeing the high voltage rise. Same with the sealed batteries
in the scooter. I only plan on using it for opportunity charging
though. If you plan on using it for a full charge, plan on being
a babysitter :-)
Lee Hart wrote:
From: "Keith Richtman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have been looking for a couple of switchmode power supplies to use
as a battery charger for my moped. Well, I found some at an
incredible price and have to pass this one along. 250W for $8. They
are rated at 24V, but adjusting the trim pot on the board I can get
from 20-27V out. <http://www.excess-solutions.com/POWERSUP.HTM>
Search for ES2651. I hope this is an acceptable use of the list.
Sure, this is a great use for the EV list.
Remember that this type of switching power supply is a constant-voltage
power supply, not a battery charger. You may find it to be hard on your
battery, especially if left on a long time. You may also find that if
the battery is too deeply discharged, the power supply won't be able to
start charging it -- it will immediately shutdown due to over-current.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hello EVers!
Ok, I've tried Uve's EV calculator and I give up. It talks about a
bunch of stuff that I just don't know and gives numbers that don't make
much sense to me.
I'm trying to determine what kind of performance and range I can expect
from a conversion with these specs:
Glider curb weight: 1300 lbs.
Glider engine weight: ~150 lbs.
Glider wheels/tires: 145-R10 (possibly switching to a more standard
13" size)
Batteries: 156V Optima YT (possibly 156V NiZn with SVR booster?)
Motor: WarP 9"
Controller: Raptor 1200
Tranny Gearing: 1st: 2.47
2nd: 1.565
3rd: 0.967
4th: 0.675
FD: 3.739
Charger: PFC-20 (if not a PFC-50)
Frontal Area: A not-very-aero 12 sq.ft. (width x height is what we're
looking for, right?)
Estimated Total Weight: 2100 lbs.
Am I missing anything important? What kind of seat-of-the-pants
performance do you guys think I'll get with this setup? Both with
NiZn/SVR batteries or Optimas?
I'm not trying to farm out difficult math to anyone else, I'm just
looking for educated guesses.
Thanks!
Matt
--
My Favorite Quotes:
"God Bless America." - President George W. Bush
"Let's roll." - Todd Beamer
"From my cold dead hands!" - Charleton Heston, NRA President
"Mr. Gorbechev, tear down this wall!" - President Ronald Reagan
"Words mean things." - Rush Limbaugh
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Chuck Hursch wrote:
> > > Unfortunately, I do not have a shaft coming out the end of the
> > > motor. And I don't think it's an easy job to put one there
> > > either - the whole motor has to come apart, and put in a
> > > different rotor (?).
>
>
> > Yeah! I have given this a thought, or two. Let me run
> this idea by EVerybody on my idea for a fix here; What if ya
> pulled the armature, chucked in a lathe and could centre-bore
> that end of the shaft, press a new shaft into the hole, like
> TIGHT fit, maybe welding it in, cutting and grinding the
> thing smooth...
I'm reading all this and wonder why people go through
as much trouble as re-machining the motor shaft, put pulleys
and belts running the vac pumps, if electric vac pumps do it
for far less money, space, power losses and can be mounted
anywhere?
Just for love of tinkering? Just curious.
Victor
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--- Begin Message ---
Ok, so thanks to Steve B. (of Tropica fame) I have a very nice Bradley
body to begin my next EV project. So a question to you VW aficianados
out there:
The Bradley is made for the pre-Super Beetle VW pan...are there
arguments in favor of going for IRS (independent rear suspension) years
rather than swing-axle years? What about upgrading brakes to disc?
Any related thoughts on what to look for in a donor vehicle?
What about running gear for a fairly high-performance EV?
Any thoughts based on experience are appreciated!
Michael B.
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--- Begin Message ---
At 01:14 PM 10/26/2002 -0700, Joe Smalley wrote:
To run CPU cooler fans from a Mk 2 regulator.
Use an emitter follower off U1pin 7.
Collector goes to +bat (J2).
Emitter goes to the red wire on the fan.
Black wire on the fan goes to -bat (J6).
Some fans will benefit if a capacitor is put across the fan leads.
I've set up my Regs this way, and they seem to work. The regs do seem to
behave a little differently though, they turn on and off much
quicker. Occasionally actually strobing. They also seem to be able to
handle several amps continuously - which the Zivan is happy to provide....
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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--- Begin Message ---
The inertia of the fan and additional load of the motor makes the battery
sag more when the load enables. This makes the battery voltage sag more
aggressively causing the duty cycle to be shorter. This is normal. Don't
worry about it.
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman reg madness
> At 01:14 PM 10/26/2002 -0700, Joe Smalley wrote:
> >To run CPU cooler fans from a Mk 2 regulator.
> >
> >Use an emitter follower off U1pin 7.
> >Collector goes to +bat (J2).
> >Emitter goes to the red wire on the fan.
> >Black wire on the fan goes to -bat (J6).
> >Some fans will benefit if a capacitor is put across the fan leads.
>
> I've set up my Regs this way, and they seem to work. The regs do seem to
> behave a little differently though, they turn on and off much
> quicker. Occasionally actually strobing. They also seem to be able to
> handle several amps continuously - which the Zivan is happy to provide....
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I took my Sparrow for another test drive tonight of about 15
miles. Found I have 1 battery that seems to be weak. After the 15.8 mile
run it was 11.2v, while all the others were around 12.5v. sigh.
It was really helpful to have the LED's for the MKII"s in the cab, as that
is what told me that something may be wrong. Just the one low-volt LED
came on. They are currently set for 10v indication.
This kind of puts me out of commission, as I can't make my
commute. AAARRGGHHH!!!
I need some Evercells!
(and a PFC-20 with Enhancer of course)
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 06:44 PM 11/6/2002 -0800, Joe Smalley wrote:
The inertia of the fan and additional load of the motor makes the battery
sag more when the load enables. This makes the battery voltage sag more
aggressively causing the duty cycle to be shorter. This is normal. Don't
worry about it.
You do realize these fans draw something like 120ma? That really doesn't
seem significant compared to the reg load.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
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--- Begin Message ---
Michael,
Check out www.bradleygt.com. They have a message board full of knowledgeable folks.
Tell JeffTroy I said hi. He's the author of the CD I gave you and perhaps the only
person that purchased a kit directly from Bradley and is still driving it!
take care,
Steve
In a message dated 11/6/2002 8:41:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
>
>
> Ok, so thanks to Steve B. (of Tropica fame) I have a very nice Bradley
> body to begin my next EV project. So a question to you VW aficianados
> out there:
> The Bradley is made for the pre-Super Beetle VW pan...are there
> arguments in favor of going for IRS (independent rear suspension) years
> rather than swing-axle years? What about upgrading brakes
> to disc?
> Any related thoughts on what to look for in a donor vehicle?
> What about running gear for a fairly high-performance EV?
> Any thoughts based on experience are appreciated!
> Michael B.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Bear in mind that Uve's EV calculator is based on 100% DOD. It would be nice
to fact in a realistic DOD to this calc, but my efforts haven't worked thus
far.
For instance, Optima YTs work best with 50%. NiCAD and other deep discharge
can be 80%. Have to factor this in.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Muelver [mailto:coolcat@;mac.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 5:11 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Theoretical range/performance
Hello EVers!
Ok, I've tried Uve's EV calculator and I give up. It talks about a
bunch of stuff that I just don't know and gives numbers that don't make
much sense to me.
I'm trying to determine what kind of performance and range I can expect
from a conversion with these specs:
Glider curb weight: 1300 lbs.
Glider engine weight: ~150 lbs.
Glider wheels/tires: 145-R10 (possibly switching to a more
standard
13" size)
Batteries: 156V Optima YT (possibly 156V NiZn
with SVR booster?)
Motor: WarP 9"
Controller: Raptor 1200
Tranny Gearing: 1st: 2.47
2nd: 1.565
3rd: 0.967
4th: 0.675
FD: 3.739
Charger: PFC-20 (if not a PFC-50)
Frontal Area: A not-very-aero 12 sq.ft. (width x height is
what we're
looking for, right?)
Estimated Total Weight: 2100 lbs.
Am I missing anything important? What kind of seat-of-the-pants
performance do you guys think I'll get with this setup? Both with
NiZn/SVR batteries or Optimas?
I'm not trying to farm out difficult math to anyone else, I'm just
looking for educated guesses.
Thanks!
Matt
--
My Favorite Quotes:
"God Bless America." - President George W. Bush
"Let's roll." - Todd Beamer
"From my cold dead hands!" - Charleton Heston, NRA President
"Mr. Gorbechev, tear down this wall!" - President Ronald Reagan
"Words mean things." - Rush Limbaugh
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I just picked up a nice 88 Toyota ( I think calicos) Its got the blown motor
and I think it would make a nice conversion . got manual tran and looks very
light also its body/inside is in great shape . I didn't see any of these
cars in the album though and was wondering why . title say wt-l-bhp 1905 .
guess that means 1905 lbs ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
What do the draw for the first 10 milliseconds when the rotor is stopped?
Joe Smalley
Rural Kitsap County WA
Fiesta 48 volts
NEDRA 48 volt street conversion record holder
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "John G. Lussmyer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 7:16 PM
Subject: Re: Rudman reg madness
> At 06:44 PM 11/6/2002 -0800, Joe Smalley wrote:
> >The inertia of the fan and additional load of the motor makes the battery
> >sag more when the load enables. This makes the battery voltage sag more
> >aggressively causing the duty cycle to be shorter. This is normal. Don't
> >worry about it.
>
> You do realize these fans draw something like 120ma? That really doesn't
> seem significant compared to the reg load.
>
>
> --
> John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
> Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
At 07:40 PM 11/6/2002 -0800, Joe Smalley wrote:
What do the draw for the first 10 milliseconds when the rotor is stopped?
Of course I don't have a clue for that. But they are tiny fans.
--
John G. Lussmyer mailto:Cougar@;CasaDelGato.Com
Dragons soar and Tigers prowl while I dream.... http://www.CasaDelGato.com
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I put silicon calk around my potbox (to keep moisture out) and in last 10
years and replaced 2 or 3 . always glad it not the controller , the micro
switch goes out every few years also. last one I got from golf Tec here in
Florida had a bigger pot inside .
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 6:20 AM
Subject: Fireworks
> I received this message last night from a friend of mine who isn't on the
EV
> list.
>
> He drives a Jet-converted Subaru van. When he got it, the Todd DC:DC was
> mounted in the rear near the motor. This left it exposed to moisture and
> road dirt, which I don't think was too good for it (Todds aren't really
> designed for that kind of environment).
>
> I'm not sure what (if anything) the potbox has to do with this, except
that
> he's had 2 or 3 potbox failures so far.
>
>
> ------- Forwarded message follows -------
>
> Hi David! I was driving home from voting and the Bus broke!
> Almost home and raining. I got out my multi meter , opened the rear
> hatch to check for power. I turned on the key and was looking over the
> wiring when the main contactor pulled in and the DC/DC converter exploded
in
> a shower of sparks and fire!!! Very dramatic! The main stayed in and I
> drove home. Ordered a new DC/DC and accelerator pot.
>
>
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Want to unsubscribe, stop the EV list mail while you're on vacation, or
> switch to digest mode? See http://www.evdl.org/help/
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
> 1991 Solectria Force 144vac
> 1991 Ford Escort Green/EV 128vdc
> 1970 GE Elec-trak E15 36vdc
> 1974 Avco New Idea rider 36vdc
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
> Thou shalt not send me any thing which says unto thee, "send this to all
> thou knowest." Neither shalt thou send me any spam, lest I smite thee.
> = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
>
>
--- End Message ---
