EV Digest 5575
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: Is the Ranger conversion by a listee?
by "Michaela Merz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: Is the Ranger conversion by a listee?
by "Death to All Spammers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Neon (Lamp, not John) Questions
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
by "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) No Load DC Motor Behavior
by Marvin Campbell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Odd lee reg issue on charging
by Christopher Zach <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
by Jimmy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) hybrid fest
by jerry halstead <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) RE: New Optimas and charging difficulties
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Anyone Use Brake by Wire and Regen
by "Jonathan Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Add on Regenerative Braking
by Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Motor / differential question...
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
14) RE: one for the Sinclair C5 owners...
by "Tim Humphrey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Stybrook Bulk Purchase
by "Bill Dennis" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: Motor / differential question...
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Re: Motor / differential question...
by "David Roden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Ryan's PRIUS grows a TAIL - Seattle Times
by Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) 36v li-ion batteries on sale
by "Kaido Kert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) RE: Circuit breaker question, an' Stuff
by "Matthew D. Graham" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Motor / differential question...
by "Peter Shabino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
by "Rush" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) RE: Motor / differential question...
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) RE: Maybe OT: EVDL withdrawl - strange problem with EVDL
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) Re: New Optimas and charging difficulties
by "Mike Phillips" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Re: Motor / differential question...
by Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) RE: Anyone Use Brake by Wire and Regen
by Cor van de Water <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: ACkwhr meter
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- Begin Message ---
Steve wrote:
> I talked to the guy with the Ranger a bit. Actually, it is pretty decent
> for a 126 V truck with all that weight and poor aerodynamics.
Well, I was seriously considering to buy the truck. But, as Steve stated,
it is going to be expensive to haul it and I don't like the idea of not
having a clutch. And I am far to inept/lazy to put it back in ;)
Anyway: I am saving for a state of the art a/c conversion anyway. With
regen and the sort. And an a/c :)
Melting away with an EV grin ....
Michaela
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
> Anyway: I am saving for a state of the art a/c conversion anyway. With
> regen and the sort. And an a/c :)
>
Looks like these are running about $18K off eBay, some a bit less, or
up to 50% more for NiMH.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In my previous post, R1 should have been 27K, not 22K.
Bill Dennis
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis, first my congratulations and then a little friendly advice. Yes your
accomplishments are more than worthy of good press. The thing you need to
realize is that the press will not usually come looking for you. You need to
write out very professional press releases and get them to your target
market. In your cases I would send them to National Dragster first, then to
other drag racing and automotive publications. Then to all your local
newspapers, TV and radio stations. You also need to send them to all your
sponsors as well. Your chances of getting write ups and interviews increases
ten fold with this approach. Good luck on your approach to the NHRA Race of
Champions!
Roderick Wilde
"Suck Amps EV Racing"
www.suckamps.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
Well good and bad news.1st round I had a .004 reaction time and dialed the
car 11.78 and ran 11.788 and won against one of arizonas best racers.When
I
pulled up next to him in the staging lanes he was not a happy racer(I have
beaten
him 3 other times this year)He walked away and waited till I was belted in
before he came back to his 240 inch dragster.He cut a .015 light and broke
out by
.002.Next I had to race his son(this is one of arizonas top racing 3
generation familys)This was an inportant race for everyone in the top 10
so we were
all set on Kill! I gave it away with a .001 red light and ran 11.791 on a
11.78
dial.Its ok though #2,3 and 4 points places also gave it away in the 2nd
round
so I still have the points lead in NHRAs Summit Super Pro Class.Next and
last
race for the series is not until sept.I took my motor out this morning for
a
new set of brushes and bearings and comm.grind and cleanup.The Current
Eliminator dragster should be in like new shape for the ET finals in which
I am
qualified to race in the NHRA race of champions.The Press should be
HUGE....
Dennis Berube
--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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--- Begin Message ---
Hi Rod;
Looks like you just talked yourself into a job<g>! A preee release guy
for Dennis. With you're racing experiance you're the GUY. Coukld ya send the
Diss -covery Channel guyz over to Dennis's Garage? Now THAT would be a TV
show worth watching. Getting their guyz to show how Dennis is so merticulus
at doing the whole thing, building the car, practicing, testing and
thousands of passes down the track, not busting the thing.
But yur point is made. Somebody should be tooting Dennis's horn with this
stuff!
My too toots worth
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roderick Wilde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
> Dennis, first my congratulations and then a little friendly advice. Yes
your
> accomplishments are more than worthy of good press. The thing you need to
> realize is that the press will not usually come looking for you. You need
to
> write out very professional press releases and get them to your target
> market. In your cases I would send them to National Dragster first, then
to
> other drag racing and automotive publications. Then to all your local
> newspapers, TV and radio stations. You also need to send them to all your
> sponsors as well. Your chances of getting write ups and interviews
increases
> ten fold with this approach. Good luck on your approach to the NHRA Race
of
> Champions!
>
> Roderick Wilde
> "Suck Amps EV Racing"
> www.suckamps.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:36 AM
> Subject: Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
>
>
> > Well good and bad news.1st round I had a .004 reaction time and dialed
the
> > car 11.78 and ran 11.788 and won against one of arizonas best
racers.When
> > I
> > pulled up next to him in the staging lanes he was not a happy racer(I
have
> > beaten
> > him 3 other times this year)He walked away and waited till I was belted
in
> > before he came back to his 240 inch dragster.He cut a .015 light and
broke
> > out by
> > .002.Next I had to race his son(this is one of arizonas top racing 3
> > generation familys)This was an inportant race for everyone in the top 10
> > so we were
> > all set on Kill! I gave it away with a .001 red light and ran 11.791 on
a
> > 11.78
> > dial.Its ok though #2,3 and 4 points places also gave it away in the 2nd
> > round
> > so I still have the points lead in NHRAs Summit Super Pro Class.Next and
> > last
> > race for the series is not until sept.I took my motor out this morning
for
> > a
> > new set of brushes and bearings and comm.grind and cleanup.The Current
> > Eliminator dragster should be in like new shape for the ET finals in
which
> > I am
> > qualified to race in the NHRA race of champions.The Press should be
> > HUGE....
> > Dennis Berube
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Aw, come on. You should be able to just put that commutator on a lathe and
she'll run good as new:^O
Marv
Culver City, CA
>> Jeff Shanab wrote:
>>> http://cvevs.jfs-tech.com/dsc00022.jpg
>>>
>>> This happened in the fraction of a second to shift gears. I completed
>>> the shift, but the throtle cable was sticky and hesitated. you cannot
>>> hear the rpm, I think brush noise is reduced at high rpm, only the
>>> aftermath can be heard (and my colorfull language).
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Ok, strange question here with the zener regs and a charging profile.
Currently the Prizm (300v, 52ah pack in 2 strings of 25 26ah batteries,
AGM) is charging with the zener regs on all batteries. Range is fine,
and I have been using a Magnecharger profile of:
Charge 12a rate to 340 volts
Hold 340 volts till charge rate drops to 2a
Charge at 2a to 365 volts
With temp compensation based on a 30 degree base pack temp.
Charging this way I usually wind up .2 to .5ah in the positive on the
e-meter with a 98% CEF (AGMs)
Anyway, what happened last night was after the MC kicked off I decided
to try the Dolphin charger to see if it would take the batteries to
390v. Dolphin charger is a 2a constant current. So I plugged in, came
back in an hour. +2ah on the e-meter, 350 volts. Came back in 2 hours,
+4ah on the e-meter, still 350 volts.
Odd. I unplugged and went to bed. This morning I plugged in (pack and
everything was cool by then) and came back in 30 mins. Pack was at a
nice 390 volts, charge complete.
Does this strike anyone as odd. This evening after a 20a run, I plugged
into the MC and let it run. It was still gong at 11:30pm tonight, and a
check of the software showed me that although the pack was at 339 volts,
the MC thought it was at 360 due to the temp compensation. Checking
temps showed that the battery interconnects (and the heat sinks for the
diodes, two diodes per interconnect) were at anywhere from 43 to 50
degrees C.
It almost seems as the clampers are all pulling most of the current, and
the remaining extra current (remember 2 strings, so the regs will bypass
1.2a on the pack when full on) is not enough to push the batteries to
full. Should I raise the charge current? Are the regs causing thermal
runaway/walkaway/crawlaway?
I'm really curious.
Chris
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dennis,
That is great news! I will be on the edge of my seat watching the race of
champions...waiting for every glimpse of the CE-V =) - but especially to
hear what the announcer will say when a non-polluting, auditory friendly,
NHRA competitive ELECTRIC dragster rolls into view at the starting line.
There will be no denying that Electrics are here to stay!!!!
Jimmy
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sun, 18 Jun 2006 14:36:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>
>Well good and bad news.1st round I had a .004 reaction time and dialed
the
car 11.78 and ran 11.788 and won against one of arizonas best racers.When
I
pulled up next to him in the staging lanes he was not a happy racer(I have
beaten
him 3 other times this year)He walked away and waited till I was belted in
before he came back to his 240 inch dragster.He cut a .015 light and broke
out by
.002.Next I had to race his son(this is one of arizonas top racing 3
generation families)This was an important race for everyone in the top 10
so we were all set to Kill! I gave it away with a .001 red light and ran
11.791 on a 11.78
dial.Its ok though #2,3 and 4 points places also gave it away in the 2nd
round
so I still have the points lead in NHRAs Summit Super Pro Class.Next and
last
race for the series is not until sept.I took my motor out this morning for
a
new set of brushes and bearings and comm.grind and cleanup.The Current
Eliminator dragster should be in like new shape for the ET finals in which
I am
qualified to race in the NHRA race of champions.The Press should be
HUGE....
Dennis Berube
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sorry if this is a repeat. Hybridfest is coming to Madison, WI the
22nd of July. Of course lots of hybrids will be on display, but you
can also get a peak at UW-Madison's working GM EV-1 and some plug-in
hybrids.
http://www.prleap.com/pr/38624/
-Jerry
http://www.evconvert.com/
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Paul,
Is the charger temp compensated?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Paul G.
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 10:16 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: New Optimas and charging difficulties
In May I bought 10 new Optimas that where made in April (nice and
fresh.) I also bought a 10 bank Deltran charger that made short work of
topping up the pack when I got them home. The charge profile is simple,
2 amps up to 14.7 volts then hold 14.7 volts for 8 hours or until the
current drops to 0.1 amp. The first charge went fine, but one took 12
hours and another 13 hours to reach 14.6 volts (where the 8 hour timer
starts.)
The batteries are now all in the buggy so I decided to top them up. I
hooked the Deltran up to the 10 batteries, with a different Deltran
bank hooked to each battery compared to the first charge. I wanted to
see if the 2 slow batteries where going to charge normally this time
and rule out charger problems. It appears that the Deltran charger is
fine as the suspicious behavior followed the batteries, not the charger
banks.
I found 3 suspicious behaviors:
One of the new Optimas actually gets below 0.1 amp at 14.7 volts and
switches its charger to float (13.4 volts) quite quickly. This is the
only battery not to time out and switch to float after 8 hours. It did
not do this on its initial charge.
One of the new Optimas that was slow to charge initially (12 hours) was
very slow to charge again. It took 12 hours to get to the blinking
(14.6 or above) stage. There where 2 of these slow batteries, just like
the my initial charge but no other battery look longer than 65 minutes
to get to the blinking stage.
The 3rd strange behavior is even more unsettling. The one that
initially took 13 hours to reach the blinking stage failed to reach the
blinking stage at all. It was the only battery not blinking last night
when I went to bed. This morning, after it had been on charge for 20
hours it was still at only 14.5 volts and the timer hadn't started. The
battery was slightly warm, not hot but clearly going into thermal
runaway. I have disconnected it from the charger.
Any input or experience on the strange behavior of my new Optimas would
be appreciated, thanx
Paul "neon" G.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Victor Tokhonov wrote:
Personally, I'd use normal brake pedal adjusted for initial slack
(before hydraulics activated) and linked to the regen pot which is
activated 0% to 100% regen demand within that mechanical slack.
I wonder how that changes when the brake pedal becomes an electronic sensor
rather than a mechanical link to hydraulics?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi folks,
A while back we were discussing things we wish we could get for EV
conversions, and I mentioned the regen setup that Solar Car Corp
offered. I found a flyer on it they had sent me years ago, scanned
it, and posted on the web at:
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/tech/regen.jpg
Please keep in mind these folks went out of business years ago, so
don't try to contact them.
Anyway, It looks to me that aside from the brackets and having the
alternator rewound, most of it looks like off the shelf
stuff. Surely this is something that would sell well enough to
justify making them again.
So, anyone know how we could get this into production?
Thanks,
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I am considering mounting a motor directly to a differential. that is, no
drive shaft, just mount the motor to the front of the differential housing.
Remove the yoke and fabricate a coupling to the motor and an adapter to bolt
the motor to the differential housing. Maybe keep the yoke to simplify preload
but couple the motor directly to the yoke - no drive shaft.
Any comments on this idea?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM.
All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
> Behalf Of nikki
> Yeah - you're right. I suppose I'm after an excuse to buy one. Shame our
> dishwasher just packed up or I'd be bidding on a few right now on ebay! :)
>
> Nikki
>
My dishwasher was packed up last week too.
After a lot of apologizing and a long talk, I was able to convince her to stay.
;-)
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
For anyone with Li-ion cells, I'm thinking of putting together a bulk
purchase of some Stybrook cell monitor boards
(http://agnimotors.com/home/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Ite
mid=39). There's a significant price break at 100 units, and a smaller
price break at 200 units. Anyone who is interested, please contact me
off-list.
Thanks.
Bill Dennis
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds like a good idea--
I have no way of knowing, but there might be fewer variations in
differential couplings than transmission bell-housings and such. Which
means that others might follow your path (if you are successful) and
people can reuse your coupling pattern.
Which differential/motor combo?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am considering mounting a motor directly to a differential. that is, no
drive shaft, just mount the motor to the front of the differential housing.
Remove the yoke and fabricate a coupling to the motor and an adapter to bolt
the motor to the differential housing. Maybe keep the yoke to simplify preload
but couple the motor directly to the yoke - no drive shaft.
Any comments on this idea?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM.
All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 19 Jun 2006 at 9:52, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Any comments on this idea?
Vanguard and CVI did this on the Dana axle Citicars and on Comuta-cars. I
think it's one of the reasons their handling sucked so badly - it increases
the unsprung weight. (There were other reasons, too.)
CVI used a driveshaft and fixed motor mounting on the later generation C-
vans.
If you do this, make sure you use solid motor connections. You need nice
flexible cables, well secured and dressed so they can jump around with the
motor and axle.
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EV List Assistant Administrator
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To send a private message, please use evadm at drmm period net.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Seattle Times Reporter does GOOD Article on Ryans PHEV and other things
from the Discovery Institute Conference. My only comment, ( which I
sent the Times..) is that they mentioned Cal Cars, but being a Local
Story... they did not mention the Seattle EV Assoicaiton, or the EAA.
Full article at:
http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2003070514_newplugincars19m.html
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
first, hello to everyone on the list, im new :)
i thought that many of you might be interested, deWalt has brought a
new li-ion powered product line on market which is interesting because
replacement batteries are available too ;)
http://www.internationaltool.com/dewalt36v.htm
$150 for 36V battery, i have no idea how many KWhs.
the technology inside is a123systems nanotech-enhanced li-ion cells,
which they claim are capable of 5min recharge.
http://www.a123systems.com/html/tech/power.html
deWalt version recharges over an hour though with their stock charger
does anyone have details on how much KWhs those contain ?
-kert
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey everyone,
Bob Rice wrote:
"Matt Graham has a nice setup with an Anderson setup with a disconnect
cable so he can pull it out from the cockpit , like to scram the system, if
need be. It looks professional enough that he may have bought it?But it
wouldn't be hard to do.Probably would zorch it to death pulling it under
full load, but it would be a hellova lot cheaper than destroying a motor as
somebody posted this AM<g>!"
The release handle for the Anderson connectors is in fact purchased (from
Quickcable) and includes some nice strain relief clamps for the cables.
Right now I have both positive and negative cables at both ends, but as I've
threatened to do in the past, I intend to just leave the most negative
battery terminal connected to the Zilla, and then just run two cables from
the most positive battery terminal to the Anderson and then onto the main
contactor.
"Professional" is a very generous term if you were applying it to my cable
release setup. It consists of an extra mini-bike sheathed brake cable that
Shawn and I had lying around, complete with a hacked-off section of 3/4" PVC
tubing for a T-handle inside the car. I used some 16 GA sheet metal for a
cable support at the Anderson end, and then drilled a hole through their
handle and attached a leftover VW Beetle accelerator cable end (nicely holds
the crimped on lead cylinder at the end of the cable). I can provide a
picture if anyone is considering a setup like this.
I suppose with some paint and a nicer T-handle, it might be deserving of the
compliment. I may actually get to it in the next day or two, since I am in
the process of replacing two toasted Orbitals. Yes, the mighty Orbs can and
do fail, but these are two that I affectionately labeled "stinkers" for
quite some time. One battery spectacularly spewed during a launch at the
Power of DC, unfortunately for Shawn when he was driving. I had just kicked
up the battery current limit to 1600 amps -- now who told me the Orbitals
would handle that with no problem? ;-) Apparently, that was a bit too much
for the one battery, and possibly did in this second battery at the time as
well.
I'm looking forward to getting two fresh batteries back in Joule Injected. I
suspect it'll give me plenty of frustration with unbalanced charging, but I
can give Lowell back the one I borrowed before the race, and then we can get
back to the fun at the track!
Matt Graham
300V "Joule Injected" Nissan
http://www.jouleinjected.com
Hobe Sound, FL
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Will max speed be an issue?
ok assuming a 18" outside wheel diameter that gives you ~ 57" circumference
That gives you 0.000899621212 miles per rev.
Now assuming a 3.65 diff (that what my fiero has in the transaxel)
That gives you .00024647 miles per rev at the motor
Thats 4057 rev per mile
Now at 65 mile per hour you will need 263705 rev per hour
or 4395 RPM
So it looks like near the top end of most DC motors (AC have a higher top
end).
(also check my math. I think I got it right but would not be the first
screwup I have made ;)
So depending on your wheel size (outside), diff ratio, max safe motor RPM,
and top speed needed you may or may not have issues.
Also think about how your going to mount your spedo sender. If you go direct
to the Diff you can get away with just a RPM sensor and us a fixed
calculation between RPM and speed (mark both on the same dial) and feed the
result over to the odomitor unit. But since your going the direct mount
method you do not get the "free" spedo sender and mount that would be
present if you were to use the transmistion
Just some ideas.
later,
Wire
From: Meta Bus <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Re: Motor / differential question...
Date: Mon, 19 Jun 2006 10:40:29 -0400
Sounds like a good idea--
I have no way of knowing, but there might be fewer variations in
differential couplings than transmission bell-housings and such. Which
means that others might follow your path (if you are successful) and people
can reuse your coupling pattern.
Which differential/motor combo?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I am considering mounting a motor directly to a differential. that is, no
drive shaft, just mount the motor to the front of the differential
housing. Remove the yoke and fabricate a coupling to the motor and an
adapter to bolt the motor to the differential housing. Maybe keep the
yoke to simplify preload but couple the motor directly to the yoke - no
drive shaft.
Any comments on this idea?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Excellent Dennis, we're cheering for you!
Just went to the Speedworld SuperPro Standings page and see that you have 2189
points and Zimmerman has 1788 points. Are those the old points or the new ones
with this race?
Let us know when you're going to be doing some practice runs. Any chance of
coming down to Tucson?
Rush
Tucson AZ
www.ironandwood.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:36 AM
Subject: Re: Current Eliminator News!!!!!!
> Well good and bad news.1st round I had a .004 reaction time and dialed the
> car 11.78 and ran 11.788 and won against one of arizonas best racers.When I
> pulled up next to him in the staging lanes he was not a happy racer(I have
> beaten
> him 3 other times this year)He walked away and waited till I was belted in
> before he came back to his 240 inch dragster.He cut a .015 light and broke
> out by
> .002.Next I had to race his son(this is one of arizonas top racing 3
> generation familys)This was an inportant race for everyone in the top 10 so
> we were
> all set on Kill! I gave it away with a .001 red light and ran 11.791 on a
> 11.78
> dial.Its ok though #2,3 and 4 points places also gave it away in the 2nd
> round
> so I still have the points lead in NHRAs Summit Super Pro Class.Next and last
> race for the series is not until sept.I took my motor out this morning for a
> new set of brushes and bearings and comm.grind and cleanup.The Current
> Eliminator dragster should be in like new shape for the ET finals in which I
> am
> qualified to race in the NHRA race of champions.The Press should be HUGE....
>
> Dennis Berube
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The rear axle will try to shed the motor with every bump in the road,
as it is loaded to one side of the axle (assuming you have a solid
axle, no half-shafts) so every up/down movement of the axle
creates a torque on the rear axle.
Since a pothole (or other fast transition) creates a high speed
change of axle position, the torque will be pretty large on the
rear axle and motor mount.
You will have to design for those forces and the handling of the
car will change accordingly with all the added unsprung weight.
Also check the axle attachment - how will it offload the torque?
Spring leaves will be extra twisted...
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:52 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Motor / differential question...
I am considering mounting a motor directly to a differential. that is, no
drive shaft, just mount the motor to the front of the differential housing.
Remove the yoke and fabricate a coupling to the motor and an adapter to bolt
the motor to the differential housing. Maybe keep the yoke to simplify
preload but couple the motor directly to the yoke - no drive shaft.
Any comments on this idea?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Blacklisted by a spam killer?
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of James Massey
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 2:03 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Maybe OT: EVDL withdrawl - strange problem with EVDL
G'day all
I'm back - not as most would have noticed I wasn't here, but the how of
being away was a bit wierd.
28th of last month all of a sudden - no posts from the EVDL. I queried the
listproc and got no response. Over the next 10 days I discussed with Mike
Chancey and then David Roden, tried unsubscribe and resubscribe - neither
message made it to the listproc (or at least, they are not in their logs).
Two more queries (that didn't get there) a signoff that did get there (so I
became unsubscribed) but no response got back to me, two more queries from
other email addresses that use the same ISP as I use that didn't get a
response.
I then had a most of a week interstate so didn't try during that time. On
the 14th (13th SJSU time) I sent another query that got logged but the
response didn't get back to me.
Today a query gets the response expected, and I was able to re-subscribe
successfuly and am now getting messages again.
So for a while there was this "Bermuda triangle" existing between my ISP
and the EVDL list server. Why did this happen? nothing has been found amiss
so far by either the helpdesk tech from my ISP or by a listproc manager who
has been helping with this.
Any theories welcome, as if it can happen to me, it can happen to anyone.
If it is possible to figure out what happened if/when it happens to someone
else it can the be fixed quickly.
Regards
[Technik] James
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rule 1. Characterize all new equipment. Measure with a voltmeter and
ammeter each output of the charger at each stage. Make sure they are
doing as they are suppose to. Consumer electronics can be junk.
Rule 2. Lead acid comparisons need every battery to be the same
temperature for a day or two for the outcomes to be similar. A warm
lead acid is still warm internally even if you cannot feel it on the case.
Mike
--- In [EMAIL PROTECTED], "Paul G." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> In May I bought 10 new Optimas that where made in April (nice and
> fresh.) I also bought a 10 bank Deltran charger that made short work of
> topping up the pack when I got them home. The charge profile is simple,
> 2 amps up to 14.7 volts then hold 14.7 volts for 8 hours or until the
> current drops to 0.1 amp. The first charge went fine, but one took 12
> hours and another 13 hours to reach 14.6 volts (where the 8 hour timer
> starts.)
>
> The batteries are now all in the buggy so I decided to top them up. I
> hooked the Deltran up to the 10 batteries, with a different Deltran
> bank hooked to each battery compared to the first charge. I wanted to
> see if the 2 slow batteries where going to charge normally this time
> and rule out charger problems. It appears that the Deltran charger is
> fine as the suspicious behavior followed the batteries, not the charger
> banks.
>
> I found 3 suspicious behaviors:
>
> One of the new Optimas actually gets below 0.1 amp at 14.7 volts and
> switches its charger to float (13.4 volts) quite quickly. This is the
> only battery not to time out and switch to float after 8 hours. It did
> not do this on its initial charge.
>
> One of the new Optimas that was slow to charge initially (12 hours) was
> very slow to charge again. It took 12 hours to get to the blinking
> (14.6 or above) stage. There where 2 of these slow batteries, just like
> the my initial charge but no other battery look longer than 65 minutes
> to get to the blinking stage.
>
> The 3rd strange behavior is even more unsettling. The one that
> initially took 13 hours to reach the blinking stage failed to reach the
> blinking stage at all. It was the only battery not blinking last night
> when I went to bed. This morning, after it had been on charge for 20
> hours it was still at only 14.5 volts and the timer hadn't started. The
> battery was slightly warm, not hot but clearly going into thermal
> runaway. I have disconnected it from the charger.
>
> Any input or experience on the strange behavior of my new Optimas would
> be appreciated, thanx
>
> Paul "neon" G.
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Cor van de Water wrote:
The rear axle will try to shed the motor with every bump in the road,
Mr Roden mentioned 'unsprung weight' too...
As a software guy, I am still learning the stuff that arises when you
actually get your hands dirty :-), (I didn't take auto shop), so forgive
my ignorance and what are probably very basic questions--
Which components on a vehicle are 'unsprung'?
How does a normal drive-train (driveshaft, transmission, etc.) help the
rear axle handle the shearing forces of potholes?
Is it all in those thingies they call 'u-joints'?
Tanks.
as it is loaded to one side of the axle (assuming you have a solid
axle, no half-shafts) so every up/down movement of the axle
creates a torque on the rear axle.
Since a pothole (or other fast transition) creates a high speed
change of axle position, the torque will be pretty large on the
rear axle and motor mount.
You will have to design for those forces and the handling of the
car will change accordingly with all the added unsprung weight.
Also check the axle attachment - how will it offload the torque?
Spring leaves will be extra twisted...
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 6:52 AM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Subject: Motor / differential question...
I am considering mounting a motor directly to a differential. that is, no
drive shaft, just mount the motor to the front of the differential housing.
Remove the yoke and fabricate a coupling to the motor and an adapter to bolt
the motor to the differential housing. Maybe keep the yoke to simplify
preload but couple the motor directly to the yoke - no drive shaft.
Any comments on this idea?
Ken
________________________________________________________________________
Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and
IM. All on demand. Always Free.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Jonathan,
Advantage of the electric regen on the hydraulic brake is the
type approval and proper functioning of the original brake,
which is still in use on the vehicle and guarantees a safe
operation, you just supplement an additional independent
circuit that does not interfere with the original brakes
so the safety of the original circuit is not compromised.
When replacing that completely with an electronic setup,
the DOT approval will usually be required or else you will
not be able to register the vehicle.
Since you are changing a safety-related item on the car,
you will need to have it checked before you can register
the car, or you may have a big issue with liability and
insurance (before or after the fact).
In addition, regen power is usually sent to the batteries.
When the batteries are over 80% charged, they will not take
a large current very well, so regen is cut back to avoid
damaging the batteries.
Now you are looking at (electronical) load diversion to
create enough regen-braking...
The number of factors that can go wrong is rising quickly
and this will compromise your safe stopping at some point
in time.
For a conversion, it does not have benefits as the brakes
are already present on the car and many (approved) parts
for upgrades are available if necessary.
My S10 US Electricar has that same setup: first 1/3 brake
pedal travel ramps up the regen current, last 2/3 is the
existing vacuum-assisted hydraulic brakes.
Regards,
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Proxim Wireless Networks eFAX: +1-610-423-5743
Take your network further http://www.proxim.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jonathan Smith
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 4:20 AM
To: evlist
Subject: Anyone Use Brake by Wire and Regen
Victor Tokhonov wrote:
> Personally, I'd use normal brake pedal adjusted for initial slack
> (before hydraulics activated) and linked to the regen pot which is
> activated 0% to 100% regen demand within that mechanical slack.
I wonder how that changes when the brake pedal becomes an electronic sensor
rather than a mechanical link to hydraulics?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Martin,
To answer the question, my budget was $50-$100 for something small & light
enough to fit in the S-10 truck cabin without terrible inefficiencies.
Both of the above options are clamps, so I believe that means minimal loss.
The one unit that could handle 220 V and 20 Amps and up, cost approx. $270
http://www.powermeterstore.com/plug/eml.php
It also is not ideal for 240 V because it requires a 120 V outlet to both
power the unit and sense the voltage, thus if on board the truck I would
have to split a hot leg to power the unit, thus causing a 300mA imbalance.
I don't know if that's a problem or not for safety or the Zivan. Doesn't
sound kosher.
For less cost I could buy the Fluke DC Amp Clamp336 that I have on my
wishlist, and estimate charger efficiency from the AC load. (then simply
rely on E-Meter) multiplying it by efficiency factor
estimating is problematic when the charger leave bulk charging phase and
goes into phase 2 & 3 which are less efficient.
Martin K
<[EMAIL PROTECTED] To:
undisclosed-recipients:;
nytech.net> cc:
Subject: Re: ACkwhr meter
06/16/2006 10:39 PM
What's your budget?
--
Martin K
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Yup, I am back to the house meter concept.
>I wanted an onbard AC kwhr meter (small) so that I could measure my power
>useage at work. However, if I have a separate one at home, I can figure
my
>charger efficiency and calculate based on emeter the AC power useage at
>work.
>
>I did get a response from a company who makes a small cheap one,
>http://www.prodigit.com.tw/e2000m.htm
>However, to make a unit that handles my needed 20 Amps (7 more amps), they
>would be looking for an order of more than a few.
>Any distributors on this list who want to distribute these?
>
>Otherwise, I'll go with option 1, and wait a few more years for a
>cheaper, higher current, small ACkwhr meter.
>
>Ben
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
