EV Digest 6919
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Re: EV are for girls blog, clutches, conversions etc.
by "Bob Rice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: AWD Conversions?
by "Kip C. Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) Re: speed controller
by "Roy LeMeur" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) Re: EVision sneak preview
by Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: DCDC converter, was Doers vs talkers
by Thomas Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Fwd: questions about the prius and other electric cars
by "gulabrao ingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) Re: Wire 4/0
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: full size truck conversion
by "owen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: full size truck conversion
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Heater efficiency (was: EV parts ordered! - ?questions?)
by "TrotFox Greyfoot" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Chargers?
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Wire 4/0
by Jerry Wagner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: to quote the Beatles, "HELP" Zilla problems
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) contacting Electro Automotive (electroauto.com)
by "Florian Schmidt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Re: to quote the Beatles, "HELP" Zilla problems
by Matthew Milliron <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) Re: ADC 9'' Amps
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) E-Porsche Suspension Question
by "Mark Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: speed controller
by Chip Gribben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) Re: Wire 4/0
by "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Nicad batteries
by [EMAIL PROTECTED]
21) Re: speed controller
by "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "jerryd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:01 PM
Subject: EV are for girls blog
Hi All,
I came across this blog and it is pretty good.
Even she knew to chose a light, aero EV glider and EV's
don't need a clutch/transmission, John and Madman!
http://www.electric-cars-are-for-girls.com/build-your-own.html
Jerry Dycus
Hi Jerry an' EVerybody;
I'll go along with ya on tranny and clutchless EV's. Never ran ANY train
or trolley with a tranny and clutch, clearly the best way to go. HowEVer
most guyz on here are dealing with CONVERSIONS. An excersize in masochism,
but not that many guyz can or WANT to build an EV from scratch.So, to make
it easier, just drop a motor into a relatively light hulk, with DOORS that
work, brakes, suspension,seats all the shit ya take for granted in a real
car.So for moost guyz on here that want SOMETHING that will go down the road
as an electric. Albiet not that efficient but it DOES go, and, in MY case
did my day to day transportation needs, to get to my OTHER electrics, the
ones Amtrak let me play with.
The Jetta has become a viable part of my daily use. FINALLY got the
stupid stuff done; New rear springs, front end aligned so it rolls along
easy. The electrical stuff I put in it work fine, still debugging the
electrical glitches that Jettas are BORN with!But I live with that. Damn car
RUNS so I use it EVery day!
So clutch/clutchless? Apples and PC's I MEAN Oranges.As Lee sez, it
depends on the Tranny that works well without a clutch. What ELSE do ya
need? a GOOD volt and Ampmeter. Pop 50-60 bux for a decent quality panel
meter. When you get to know your car and it, you, you will know what is left
by how "Soft" the batteries are, as ya go. Like sailing to windward in a
sailboat, it is an aquired skill.
For me I enjoy clicking through the Jetta's gears, as I drive it daily.
Seeya
Bob
--
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Korb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: AWD Conversions?
I think it could be an interesting hybrid. Use a compact EV motor and
transaxle in the rear, and put a FWD transmission in the front; batteries
in
the trunk and under the seats. Then you could use the EV RWD mode for
commuting, and FWD ICE for long trips.
A good compromise there would be to limit pack voltage and weight, using the
electric motor for ICE-off starts. In other words, set it up so that you
have adequate torque from 0-25 or so, but design in a system that
automatically shuts down the ICE below that speed as soon as the clutch
pedal is pressed. ICE restarts over 20-25 mph can be as simple as releasing
the clutch in 4th or 5th.
It's obviously not a pure EV solution, but one could significantly cut the
complexity and expense of the EV system down and end up with a car that
could get well over 50 mpg in town. Obviously there should be an override
option for pure ICE operation when the pack is depleted. But that would
eliminate the complexity of worrying about regeneration and offset the load
of recharging to plug-in power.
I think that for something like this it would make allot of sense to use a
significant gear reduction however.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rob Hogenmiller wrote:
How do I reset it and what might I be I doing to make it flick off?
(I took off the throttle thought maybe it had issues) still don't think it
works
The only time the motor worked with the speed control is when I had the
wires from the speed control to the brakes not a complete circuit and the
wires from the speed control to the throttle completed circuit, however I
can't duplicate it now that it has flipped off.
You might try taking the brake lever safety switches out of the equation and
see what happens. The brake lever switches not working correctly is a common
fault.
Also verify on/off (controller enable) switch operation/continuity.
Disconnecting/reconnecting the battery pack can let breakers reset. (I am
not remembering the I-zip system specifically)
Verify that the batteries are completely charged (could be shutting down due
to low voltage)
Check the operation of the motor by bypassing the controller (connect
batteries directly to motor).
OTOH, replacing the controller with a solenoid can also work :^D (hold on!)
HTH
~~~~~~
Roy LeMeur
_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
http://maps.live.com/default.aspx?ss=Restaurants~Hotels~Amusement%20Park&cp=33.832922~-117.915659&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=1118863&encType=1&FORM=MGAC01
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Actually, if you want to integrate into the dash, outer diameter of the
bar graph LEDs circle is 60mm, The PCB is larger, but you don't need
a hole for entire PCB, you only need it big enough to see all LEDs.
Victor
John O'Connor wrote:
Sounds like I need to find a place to make a 73.5mm hole. Look forward
to being able to trade you some money for one of these things.
John
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Dan Frederiksen wrote:
Yes they might actually work. not sure why I couldn't find those at
digikey. do you happen to know an online source for them too?
http://www.pwrx.com/Result.aspx?g=73&m=78
--- End Message ---
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--- Begin Message ---
Even though it might cost more, it's often cheaper to buy cable locally
because you won't have to pay shipping.
Good multistrand, flexible, 2/0 and 4/0 wire can be purchased at most
welding supply stores. There should be one close by.
Really well stocked hardware stores might carry it, and possibly
electrical supply stores.
> Where is a good place to buy 4/0 wire??
>
> What is 2/0 rated at for amps
>
> O shit how about this.. Where a good place to buy anything I need for my E
> V
> and not go broke
>
> Thanks Mitchell
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Zeke Yewdall
> Date: 6/16/2007 9:58:42 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
>
> I think that 2/0 is more normal wire size, and I'd use 4/0 for most
> Designs if possible. #4 is more like a fuseable link than a real wire
> For the amperages that we are usually using. #4 is only rated around
> 90 amps depending on insulation, placement, etc, whereas 4/0 is rated
> Around 270 amps (these are NEC ratings for use in houses -- cars can
> Often get away with a little more, if it's not continuous).
>
> Z
>
> On 6/15/07, Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> If you give me your email I will send you a photo and you can tell me I
>> hook it up to a single 12 volt battery today to see what it would do It
> ran
>> slow but it ran.. Dam did those wires get hot.. Any way is 4 gage what
>> is
>> commonly used between the batteries..??
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: Bruce Weisenberger
>> Date: 06/14/07 00:44:40
>> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>> Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
>>
>> Is it a JH-29 used by www.e-volks.com? If so they run
>> It up to 96 volts with heavy duty air blowing through
>> It. I plan on using one in a Honda CRF. Have it
>> Already. Just need to build an adapter, get a
>> Controller, batteries and wiring. Got a bit to go.
>> Plan on using an AXE-7245 72 volts 450 amps.
>>
>> --- Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> > So this is my project now a aircraft starter
>> > generator on a Geo metro
>> > convertible
>> > The motor is 400 amp at 300 volts permanent
>> > magnet..
>> >
>> > So guys in lighting me .. What do I have to look
>> > forward to on my first EV
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-------
>> >
>> > From: John Wayland
>> > Date: 6/12/2007 8:49:41 AM
>> > >
>> >
>> > I believe this. There are a lot of hills around
>> > here, some of them
>> > Pretty steep, so yes, in our beautiful urban area
>> > (we are the only major
>> > City in the USA with an extinct volcano within the
>> > city limits) regen is
>> > A nice feature. HEL--LOW everyone...I've 'never'
>> > said I don't like
>> > Regen! In fact, I think it's great.
>> >
>> > In my first version of Blue Meanie, waaaay back in
>> > 1980, I used a
>> > Primitive aircraft starter generator as the traction
>> > source. It was a
>> > Very inefficient motor, and thus ran very hot all
>> > the time, but it was a
>> > Versatile compound wound type beast with its
>> > selectable windings. In
>> > Addition to having the acceleration power of the
>> > mighty series-wound
>> > Motor within, you could also excite the shunt
>> > windings of its generator
>> > Soul and get mondo regen, the kind that would try to
>> > through you through
>> > The windshield if you got carried away! Some where
>> > in cyber space
>> > there's my detailed post of a trip I took from my
>> > east Portland home
>> > Westward across the city, up and over the steep
>> > Sylvan hills (6% grade
>> > For nearly 4 miles), out to Beaverton where the car
>> > was put on charge
>> > But because of time restraints (high output constant
>> > current PFC
>> > Chargers didn't exist back then) it didn't get fully
>> > charged...then
>> > Reverse the process back home. This was when my
>> > little Datsun ran at a
>> > Heady 48 volts, folks, just 8 6V golf car batteries!
>> > Anyway...I barely
>> > Made it up the west side grade to the summit of
>> > Sylvan hill as the
>> > Batteries were exhausted from their not-so-great
>> > recharge...the car
>> > Crawled to the top and was at a tepid human's
>> > walking gate as it rolled
>> > Over the crest...whew! I kicked on full regen which
>> > held the car to a
>> > Slow 15 mph or so down the hill, but hundreds of
>> > amps were jammed into
>> > The poor abused batteries (my formative years, so
>> > give me a break for
>> > Committing battricide). I could have coasted down
>> > the hill, but after
>> > The lowest point as you re-enter Portland, there's a
>> > big ass bridge you
>> > Have to transverse that arches high up and over the
>> > Willamette River
>> > that's part of the freeway system that outs you onto
>> > I-84 East. Had I
>> > Merely coasted, the car 'might' have had enough
>> > momentum to make it up
>> > And over the bridge, but it surely would have died
>> > afterwards on the
>> > L-o-n-g ramp that winds to the I-84 and I would have
>> > found myself stuck
>> > Alongside the crazy freeway. However, because of the
>> > high current, long
>> > Duration regen I employed, the car had a burst of
>> > power in its battery
>> > Pack and I was able to make the ~ 9 mile trek (all a
>> > gradual uphill
>> > Route) all the way back to my driveway! Yes, it was
>> > a 100% discharge,Thanks
>> > for acknowledging this. Yes, I know I'm right about
>> > it. I have
>> > Logged too many miles behind the wheel of EV1s to
>> > not know this, and
>> > Yes, I've even driven Solectria's vehicles (their
>> > twin rear motor
>> > Pickups and unfortunately, their s-l-o-w Geo
>> > Metros).
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> _____________________________________________________________________________
>
>> ______
>> Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're
>> surfing
>
>> http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Zeke Yewdall
> Chief Electrical Engineer
> Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
> Cell: 720.352.2508
> Office: 303.459.0177
> FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> www.cosunflower.com
>
> CoSEIA Certified
> Certified BP Solar Installer
> National Association of Home Builders
>
> Quotable Quote
>
> "In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
> in the dead of winter, war spreading,
> families dying, the world in danger,
> I walk the rocky hillside
> sowing clover."
>
> Wendell Berry
>
>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I agree Pete, a 30 kw system will be pathetic. But, Owen asked "so what
weight can you use a 30 kw (dc ?) motor on".....
A 30 kw DC motor driven with a 400kw peak drive will probably be quite
sufficient.
Owen, did you mean a 30kw DC motor? Or 30 KW DC system?
I ment motor but what do you mean "30 KW DC system "
so what kw is enough to move a 3000 kg truck flooded batt only ,can it be
done ?
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
The electric drive "system" typically consists of three parts: Battery,
Controller, and Motor. ANY of these parts can limit your output power.
You can overdrive the motor briefly, a 30kw motor can handle 400 kw for a
few seconds, perhaps 60kw for a few minutes and maybe 35-40kw for an hour
(depending on cooling)
A 30kw controller can only pass a maximum of 30kw to the motor, and then
usually for only a brief time (depending on how it's rated), then it
starts to overheat and needs to scale back the power.
You can have a 100kw motor and a 200 kw controller, but if the batteries
can only produce 30 kw, then your "system" can only produce 30kw.
A 30 kw (rated) motor would be enough for a 3000kg truck (assuming you
mean the TOTAL weight of the truck), as long as it doesn't have to go up
any long, steep, hills.
But you'd want at least a 100kw controller and batteries capable of
sourcing 100kw or more.
That is assuming of course that you have a multispeed transmission between
the motor and the wheels.
If you are going for direct drive you will need a much larger motor,
controller, and battery pack. At least three times as powerful. And
you'll probably need external cooling for the motor.
> I agree Pete, a 30 kw system will be pathetic. But, Owen asked "so what
> weight can you use a 30 kw (dc ?) motor on".....
>
> A 30 kw DC motor driven with a 400kw peak drive will probably be quite
> sufficient.
>
> Owen, did you mean a 30kw DC motor? Or 30 KW DC system?
>
> I ment motor but what do you mean "30 KW DC system "
> so what kw is enough to move a 3000 kg truck flooded batt only ,can it be
> done ?
>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
In regard the heater you offer...
How did you find a water pump that uses no power? } ; ]
In my mind it is less efficient than a ceramic element if it uses
power for anything other than heating.
Trot, the picky, fox... } ; ]
On 6/19/07, Victor Tikhonov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
It is practically 100% efficient, e.g. all the energy it wastes,
(consumes), goes to heat and nothing else ;-)
--
| /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember,
| ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a
| >\_/< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have two nice units to charge RC car battery charges.
It has NimH and NicD under choices of battery types to charge.
They will do up to 12 volts and up to 5000mAh
I am wanting to charge a 12 volt 4.5A Lead Acid Battery.
Is there any reason I shouldn't use these charges to charge this type of
battery?
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Try www.weldingsupply for cable. $4.15 per foot for 4-0 welding cable. $2.59
/ft. for 2-0
-----Original Message-----
>From: Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Jun 19, 2007 11:26 PM
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: Wire 4/0
>
>Where is a good place to buy 4/0 wire??
>
>What is 2/0 rated at for amps
>
>O shit how about this.. Where a good place to buy anything I need for my E V
>and not go broke
>
>Thanks Mitchell
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Zeke Yewdall
>Date: 6/16/2007 9:58:42 AM
>To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
>
>I think that 2/0 is more normal wire size, and I'd use 4/0 for most
>Designs if possible. #4 is more like a fuseable link than a real wire
>For the amperages that we are usually using. #4 is only rated around
>90 amps depending on insulation, placement, etc, whereas 4/0 is rated
>Around 270 amps (these are NEC ratings for use in houses -- cars can
>Often get away with a little more, if it's not continuous).
>
>Z
>
>On 6/15/07, Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> If you give me your email I will send you a photo and you can tell me I
>> hook it up to a single 12 volt battery today to see what it would do It
>ran
>> slow but it ran.. Dam did those wires get hot.. Any way is 4 gage what is
>> commonly used between the batteries..??
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: Bruce Weisenberger
>> Date: 06/14/07 00:44:40
>> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
>> Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
>>
>> Is it a JH-29 used by www.e-volks.com? If so they run
>> It up to 96 volts with heavy duty air blowing through
>> It. I plan on using one in a Honda CRF. Have it
>> Already. Just need to build an adapter, get a
>> Controller, batteries and wiring. Got a bit to go.
>> Plan on using an AXE-7245 72 volts 450 amps.
>>
>> --- Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> > So this is my project now a aircraft starter
>> > generator on a Geo metro
>> > convertible
>> > The motor is 400 amp at 300 volts permanent
>> > magnet..
>> >
>> > So guys in lighting me .. What do I have to look
>> > forward to on my first EV
>> >
>> > --
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > -----Original Message-------
>> >
>> > From: John Wayland
>> > Date: 6/12/2007 8:49:41 AM
>> > >
>> >
>> > I believe this. There are a lot of hills around
>> > here, some of them
>> > Pretty steep, so yes, in our beautiful urban area
>> > (we are the only major
>> > City in the USA with an extinct volcano within the
>> > city limits) regen is
>> > A nice feature. HEL--LOW everyone...I've 'never'
>> > said I don't like
>> > Regen! In fact, I think it's great.
>> >
>> > In my first version of Blue Meanie, waaaay back in
>> > 1980, I used a
>> > Primitive aircraft starter generator as the traction
>> > source. It was a
>> > Very inefficient motor, and thus ran very hot all
>> > the time, but it was a
>> > Versatile compound wound type beast with its
>> > selectable windings. In
>> > Addition to having the acceleration power of the
>> > mighty series-wound
>> > Motor within, you could also excite the shunt
>> > windings of its generator
>> > Soul and get mondo regen, the kind that would try to
>> > through you through
>> > The windshield if you got carried away! Some where
>> > in cyber space
>> > there's my detailed post of a trip I took from my
>> > east Portland home
>> > Westward across the city, up and over the steep
>> > Sylvan hills (6% grade
>> > For nearly 4 miles), out to Beaverton where the car
>> > was put on charge
>> > But because of time restraints (high output constant
>> > current PFC
>> > Chargers didn't exist back then) it didn't get fully
>> > charged...then
>> > Reverse the process back home. This was when my
>> > little Datsun ran at a
>> > Heady 48 volts, folks, just 8 6V golf car batteries!
>> > Anyway...I barely
>> > Made it up the west side grade to the summit of
>> > Sylvan hill as the
>> > Batteries were exhausted from their not-so-great
>> > recharge...the car
>> > Crawled to the top and was at a tepid human's
>> > walking gate as it rolled
>> > Over the crest...whew! I kicked on full regen which
>> > held the car to a
>> > Slow 15 mph or so down the hill, but hundreds of
>> > amps were jammed into
>> > The poor abused batteries (my formative years, so
>> > give me a break for
>> > Committing battricide). I could have coasted down
>> > the hill, but after
>> > The lowest point as you re-enter Portland, there's a
>> > big ass bridge you
>> > Have to transverse that arches high up and over the
>> > Willamette River
>> > that's part of the freeway system that outs you onto
>> > I-84 East. Had I
>> > Merely coasted, the car 'might' have had enough
>> > momentum to make it up
>> > And over the bridge, but it surely would have died
>> > afterwards on the
>> > L-o-n-g ramp that winds to the I-84 and I would have
>> > found myself stuck
>> > Alongside the crazy freeway. However, because of the
>> > high current, long
>> > Duration regen I employed, the car had a burst of
>> > power in its battery
>> > Pack and I was able to make the ~ 9 mile trek (all a
>> > gradual uphill
>> > Route) all the way back to my driveway! Yes, it was
>> > a 100% discharge,Thanks
>> > for acknowledging this. Yes, I know I'm right about
>> > it. I have
>> > Logged too many miles behind the wheel of EV1s to
>> > not know this, and
>> > Yes, I've even driven Solectria's vehicles (their
>> > twin rear motor
>> > Pickups and unfortunately, their s-l-o-w Geo
>> > Metros).
>> >
>> >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>_____________________________________________________________________________
>
>> ______
>> Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing
>
>> http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>--
>Zeke Yewdall
>Chief Electrical Engineer
>Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
>Cell: 720.352.2508
>Office: 303.459.0177
>FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>www.cosunflower.com
>
>CoSEIA Certified
>Certified BP Solar Installer
>National Association of Home Builders
>
>Quotable Quote
>
>"In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
>in the dead of winter, war spreading,
>families dying, the world in danger,
>I walk the rocky hillside
>sowing clover."
>
>Wendell Berry
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 20:40:52 -0700, you wrote:
>Matt, is it possible that it is carbon dust from brush wear creating the
>short?
>Blowing the motor out with compressed air may reduce or eliminate the short.
>Worth a try? How many miles on Pikachu? My buzz indicates 20,000 but I
>think it is more like 120,000,
>
Pikachu only has 14k miles on it. But, she has been sitting a LONG
time.
R. Matt Milliron
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
1981 Jet Electrica
http://www.austinev.org/evalbum/702
My daughter named it, "Pikachu". It's yellow and black,
electric and contains Japanese parts, so I went with it.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
does anybody know if the Guys of Electro Automotive have another E-Mailadress ?
I always get Error Messages when i send an E-Mail to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
--
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Browser-Versionen downloaden: http://www.gmx.net/de/go/browser
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--- Begin Message ---
On Tue, 19 Jun 2007 21:01:07 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>Hey Matt
>
>Just give me a write when you get there. Pics would
>help for looking at overall motor health and such.
>Just got Wayland out of my hair so that frees me up
>for the rest of you guys again, LMAO 8^P
>
Nothing like chasing all over with a meter to find a short. I just
didn't go far enough.
>BTW almost didn't catch this as I'm not the controller
>guy 8^)
>
I should have know a brand new Zilla wasn't gonna make a problem.
>BTWX2 you do realize if I help you that makes you my
>motor bitch and you have to do EVerything I say on top
>of putting up with evil twin rantings and such, right?
> Cause I know I've seen you around here long enough to
>know me 8^P
>
Yes SIR! Tote that commutator, lift that motor. That's MISTER
motor bitch to the rest of you. <GRIN>
Matt's evil twin, Skippy
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Joseph,
Some time ago, I contacted NetGain about some data on there Warp motors.
The Warp 9 can continuous run at 199 motor amps which I can keep it about
200 amp.
At acceleration, it is about a maximum of 60 seconds when at 300 amps and
proportional less then that when going above 300 amps.
For more data, it is best to go the the NetGain web site and contact them on
a motor spread sheet on the motor info you need.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joseph Tahbaz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 9:51 PM
Subject: ADC 9'' Amps
How many amps can the ADC 9'' motor safely take without risking its life
time?
Also, this is plain text, right?
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail to go? Get your Hotmail, news, sports and much more! Check out the
New MSN Mobile!
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hi,
After putting in 4 50lb nicads up front and 10 in the rear, I'm tweaking the
suspension to give me more ground clearance. Does anyone know what the spec
is? I don't see it in my Haynes & tech tips Porsche manual.
Also in setting the front torsion bars the manual shows a 3.54" difference
which correlates to a 8.6" measured from the floor to the axle. It was 6.5"
and now it's 7.8" after adjusting the torsion bars to the max. There is no
more upward travel, the suspension is on the upper stops and the front will
only bounce down, not up so I assume the manual has a typo. I'll probably
adjust it to something in between 6.5 to 7.8" (about 7"). The toe-in on the
front looks to 1/8" as well as the rear. The camber, tires are kicked out
at the bottom 1/4". I'm told this is good for handling but a 0 camber would
be better for wear (if I can adjust it, not sure).
I installed 180lb progressive springs on the rear but it looks like it's
lowered 1" and the camber (tires are kicked out at the bottom 1/4") I
shimmed most of the camber out (was 1" when I bought it). I bought Bilstien
adjustable height shocks which allow the spring seat to be moved up to jack
up the rear a bit. I'd like to bring it up at least an inch or maybe two
inches, so the rear would be slightly higher than the front.
Have a renewable energy day,
Mark
_________________________________________________________________
Like puzzles? Play free games & earn great prizes. Play Clink now.
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--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hey Rob,
This is probably not the best scooter controller to use for your project
The I-Zip controller only turns on after the kid kick starts or rolls
the scooter a few feet before the motor turns on. There is also a
time delay built-in where if the controller sees no activity for
several seconds it turns off then the kid needs to kick start it again.
I think the throttle is an off/on type affair. I can't really
remember. It could be a hall-effect throttle. But once the kid kick
starts or rolls the scooter and it turns on they twist the throttle
back to get more speed. The brake has a built-in brake inhibit
function which turns the controller off when the brake is applied. A
twist of the throttle turns it on again. But you have to do it within
a certain period of time or it will shut off.
Pretty much a majority of the 100 watt motor scooters work this way.
The Razor E-100, Currie I-Zip and the small Zappy scooters among
others. They do this because these scooters are basically a training
scooter before the kids are big enough to use the full throttle
scooters so they keep the function of kick starting the scooter like
a normal non-motorized scooter. It also protects the small motor from
heating up.
For small scooter projects like you are doing I would suggest a 30
and 40 amp 24 volt Currie controller and 3-wire hall effect throttle.
These are controllers used for the Curries, Schwinn and Mongoose
scooters. They are available at: ElectricScooterParts.com,
PartsForScooters.com and TheSuperKids.com. These controllers have the
brake inhibit function but don't have the kick start circuit and
built-in time delays which is causing you problems.
Unless you are an electronics specialist who can go into the
controller board and bypass the kick start feature and the time
delays I'm really not too sure how you can really use this controller
for your application. These controllers are really small. They pack
it all on a small board and the time delays are configured in small
chips soldered on the board so there really isn't much you can do to
bypass them.
Chip Gribben
ElectroScooterWorks
http://www.electroscooterworks.com
On Jun 20, 2007, at 1:50 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: June 20, 2007 1:13:22 AM EDT
To: "EV Discussion" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: speed controller
I bought an I-zip scooter to build my sons four wheeler project.
Bought it at second hand store.
The speed control seems to act funky, won't send power thru to
engine, then let it set for 30 seconds all power disconnected and
try again and it works, I can hear something flick off inside it,
but can't duplicate the 30 seconds issue and sometimes it's minutes
before I get it to send power to the engine.
How do I reset it and what might I be I doing to make it flick off?
(I took off the throttle thought maybe it had issues) still don't
think it works
The only time the motor worked with the speed control is when I had
the wires from the speed control to the brakes not a complete
circuit and the wires from the speed control to the throttle
completed circuit, however I can't duplicate it now that it has
flipped off.
It's a 30amp speed controller 24volt.
God bless
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Hello Phelps,
When buying multi-strand wire, make sure you get the right voltage rating.
This will be printed on the side of the wire. A welding supply company will
carry two voltage ratings, one is the leader feeder that are rated for 300
volts and then the power leads rated for 600 volts.
Some auto parts stores that make up battery wires, they normally carry the
lower voltage in stock, but may have to order the higher voltage wire. The
auto type stranding is about 110 strands for a 2/0 cable.
Also there is different size of wire strands from very fine strands that
range from 200 to over 1000 strands for 4/0 wire.
Lets say your battery pack is a 250 volt pack, then you can get by with 300
volt cable. If you battery pack is over 300 volts, then your feeder cables
coming of the ends of the battery pack should be 600 volt rated.
The battery links could be rated at the 300 volt rate because the maximum
voltage difference between any two batteries in the pack is only 2, 6, or 12
volts.
I preferred to make my battery links with a 300 volt rated 2/0 that has
about 110 strands copper wire that has a thinner jacket. Also the larger
strands will not fracture as much as the fine strands.
I only use the 600 volt fine strand cable with a heavy jack for the feeder
runs from the battery pack.
I use a heavy heat shrink with adhesive which increases the cable link
diameter another 1/4 inch in diameter.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phelps" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:26 PM
Subject: Wire 4/0
> Where is a good place to buy 4/0 wire??
>
> What is 2/0 rated at for amps
>
> O shit how about this.. Where a good place to buy anything I need for my E
> V
> and not go broke
>
> Thanks Mitchell
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Zeke Yewdall
> Date: 6/16/2007 9:58:42 AM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
>
> I think that 2/0 is more normal wire size, and I'd use 4/0 for most
> Designs if possible. #4 is more like a fuseable link than a real wire
> For the amperages that we are usually using. #4 is only rated around
> 90 amps depending on insulation, placement, etc, whereas 4/0 is rated
> Around 270 amps (these are NEC ratings for use in houses -- cars can
> Often get away with a little more, if it's not continuous).
>
> Z
>
> On 6/15/07, Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > If you give me your email I will send you a photo and you can tell me I
> > hook it up to a single 12 volt battery today to see what it would do It
> ran
> > slow but it ran.. Dam did those wires get hot.. Any way is 4 gage what
> > is
> > commonly used between the batteries..??
> >
> > -------Original Message-------
> >
> > From: Bruce Weisenberger
> > Date: 06/14/07 00:44:40
> > To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> > Subject: Re: Aircraft Starter generator
> >
> > Is it a JH-29 used by www.e-volks.com? If so they run
> > It up to 96 volts with heavy duty air blowing through
> > It. I plan on using one in a Honda CRF. Have it
> > Already. Just need to build an adapter, get a
> > Controller, batteries and wiring. Got a bit to go.
> > Plan on using an AXE-7245 72 volts 450 amps.
> >
> > --- Phelps <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > So this is my project now a aircraft starter
> > > generator on a Geo metro
> > > convertible
> > > The motor is 400 amp at 300 volts permanent
> > > magnet..
> > >
> > > So guys in lighting me .. What do I have to look
> > > forward to on my first EV
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-------
> > >
> > > From: John Wayland
> > > Date: 6/12/2007 8:49:41 AM
> > > >
> > >
> > > I believe this. There are a lot of hills around
> > > here, some of them
> > > Pretty steep, so yes, in our beautiful urban area
> > > (we are the only major
> > > City in the USA with an extinct volcano within the
> > > city limits) regen is
> > > A nice feature. HEL--LOW everyone...I've 'never'
> > > said I don't like
> > > Regen! In fact, I think it's great.
> > >
> > > In my first version of Blue Meanie, waaaay back in
> > > 1980, I used a
> > > Primitive aircraft starter generator as the traction
> > > source. It was a
> > > Very inefficient motor, and thus ran very hot all
> > > the time, but it was a
> > > Versatile compound wound type beast with its
> > > selectable windings. In
> > > Addition to having the acceleration power of the
> > > mighty series-wound
> > > Motor within, you could also excite the shunt
> > > windings of its generator
> > > Soul and get mondo regen, the kind that would try to
> > > through you through
> > > The windshield if you got carried away! Some where
> > > in cyber space
> > > there's my detailed post of a trip I took from my
> > > east Portland home
> > > Westward across the city, up and over the steep
> > > Sylvan hills (6% grade
> > > For nearly 4 miles), out to Beaverton where the car
> > > was put on charge
> > > But because of time restraints (high output constant
> > > current PFC
> > > Chargers didn't exist back then) it didn't get fully
> > > charged...then
> > > Reverse the process back home. This was when my
> > > little Datsun ran at a
> > > Heady 48 volts, folks, just 8 6V golf car batteries!
> > > Anyway...I barely
> > > Made it up the west side grade to the summit of
> > > Sylvan hill as the
> > > Batteries were exhausted from their not-so-great
> > > recharge...the car
> > > Crawled to the top and was at a tepid human's
> > > walking gate as it rolled
> > > Over the crest...whew! I kicked on full regen which
> > > held the car to a
> > > Slow 15 mph or so down the hill, but hundreds of
> > > amps were jammed into
> > > The poor abused batteries (my formative years, so
> > > give me a break for
> > > Committing battricide). I could have coasted down
> > > the hill, but after
> > > The lowest point as you re-enter Portland, there's a
> > > big ass bridge you
> > > Have to transverse that arches high up and over the
> > > Willamette River
> > > that's part of the freeway system that outs you onto
> > > I-84 East. Had I
> > > Merely coasted, the car 'might' have had enough
> > > momentum to make it up
> > > And over the bridge, but it surely would have died
> > > afterwards on the
> > > L-o-n-g ramp that winds to the I-84 and I would have
> > > found myself stuck
> > > Alongside the crazy freeway. However, because of the
> > > high current, long
> > > Duration regen I employed, the car had a burst of
> > > power in its battery
> > > Pack and I was able to make the ~ 9 mile trek (all a
> > > gradual uphill
> > > Route) all the way back to my driveway! Yes, it was
> > > a 100% discharge,Thanks
> > > for acknowledging this. Yes, I know I'm right about
> > > it. I have
> > > Logged too many miles behind the wheel of EV1s to
> > > not know this, and
> > > Yes, I've even driven Solectria's vehicles (their
> > > twin rear motor
> > > Pickups and unfortunately, their s-l-o-w Geo
> > > Metros).
> > >
> > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> _____________________________________________________________________________
>
> > ______
> > Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're
> > surfing
>
> > http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Zeke Yewdall
> Chief Electrical Engineer
> Sunflower Solar, A NewPoint Energy Company
> Cell: 720.352.2508
> Office: 303.459.0177
> FAX documents to: 720.269.1240
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> www.cosunflower.com
>
> CoSEIA Certified
> Certified BP Solar Installer
> National Association of Home Builders
>
> Quotable Quote
>
> "In the dark of the moon, in flying snow,
> in the dead of winter, war spreading,
> families dying, the world in danger,
> I walk the rocky hillside
> sowing clover."
>
> Wendell Berry
>
>
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
>Where do the surplus or used flooded nicad's that people are using come
from?
I have a somewhat related question: Where do they go when they die? I don't
think the consumer battery recycling places will take large nicads, and they
certainly shouldn't end up in the landfill.
Bill
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Thank you, now it makes sense.
So if I hook it all back up and just give the motor a push start, (I've got
the throttle wide open as I bypassed the throttle to make sure it wasn't the
throttle). I basically have everything off the scooter (all the wires)
except the motor is still mounted for testing purposes.
This explains the intermittent issue.
Thank you for all the suggestions too. Much appreciated.
God bless
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chip Gribben" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: speed controller
Hey Rob,
This is probably not the best scooter controller to use for your project
The I-Zip controller only turns on after the kid kick starts or rolls the
scooter a few feet before the motor turns on. There is also a time delay
built-in where if the controller sees no activity for several seconds it
turns off then the kid needs to kick start it again.
I think the throttle is an off/on type affair. I can't really remember.
It could be a hall-effect throttle. But once the kid kick starts or rolls
the scooter and it turns on they twist the throttle back to get more
speed. The brake has a built-in brake inhibit function which turns the
controller off when the brake is applied. A twist of the throttle turns
it on again. But you have to do it within a certain period of time or it
will shut off.
Pretty much a majority of the 100 watt motor scooters work this way. The
Razor E-100, Currie I-Zip and the small Zappy scooters among others. They
do this because these scooters are basically a training scooter before
the kids are big enough to use the full throttle scooters so they keep
the function of kick starting the scooter like a normal non-motorized
scooter. It also protects the small motor from heating up.
For small scooter projects like you are doing I would suggest a 30 and 40
amp 24 volt Currie controller and 3-wire hall effect throttle. These are
controllers used for the Curries, Schwinn and Mongoose scooters. They are
available at: ElectricScooterParts.com, PartsForScooters.com and
TheSuperKids.com. These controllers have the brake inhibit function but
don't have the kick start circuit and built-in time delays which is
causing you problems.
Unless you are an electronics specialist who can go into the controller
board and bypass the kick start feature and the time delays I'm really
not too sure how you can really use this controller for your application.
These controllers are really small. They pack it all on a small board and
the time delays are configured in small chips soldered on the board so
there really isn't much you can do to bypass them.
Chip Gribben
ElectroScooterWorks
http://www.electroscooterworks.com
On Jun 20, 2007, at 1:50 AM, Electric Vehicle Discussion List wrote:
From: "Rob Hogenmiller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: June 20, 2007 1:13:22 AM EDT
To: "EV Discussion" <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Subject: speed controller
I bought an I-zip scooter to build my sons four wheeler project. Bought
it at second hand store.
The speed control seems to act funky, won't send power thru to engine,
then let it set for 30 seconds all power disconnected and try again and
it works, I can hear something flick off inside it, but can't duplicate
the 30 seconds issue and sometimes it's minutes before I get it to send
power to the engine.
How do I reset it and what might I be I doing to make it flick off?
(I took off the throttle thought maybe it had issues) still don't think
it works
The only time the motor worked with the speed control is when I had the
wires from the speed control to the brakes not a complete circuit and
the wires from the speed control to the throttle completed circuit,
however I can't duplicate it now that it has flipped off.
It's a 30amp speed controller 24volt.
God bless
--- End Message ---
