EV Digest 7049
Topics covered in this issue include:
1) Plug In Prius
by Tom Gocze <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
2) Re: 6v or 12v
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
3) RE: Condensation? @ Heater core ? OT maybe
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
4) html email
by Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
5) Re: "Message truncated" problem
by "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
6) Re: Ideal conversion candidate? Aussies are Lucky.
by Brian Hay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
7) RE: Condensation? @ Heater core ? OT maybe
by Michael Barkley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
8) Re: Ideal conversion candidate? Aussies are Lucky.
by "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
9) Re: 1st street ev smile/frown
by ROBERT RICE <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
10) Re: Ideal conversion candidate? Aussies are Lucky.
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
11) Re: Plug In Prius
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
12) Re: Zilla inside picture (Hot, Cold and Broken)
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
13) Re: EV1 Leasing Requirements ???
by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
14) Re: Tell Me Which DC to DC Converter I Should Use
by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
15) Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by "Deanne Mott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
16) RE: "Message truncated" problem
by "David S" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
17) Speed Indication Issue - Toyota Yaris Conversion
by Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
18) Re: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
19) What is the typical amperage draw of the field for a sepex motor?
by "Zeke Yewdall" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
20) Re: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
21) Re: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by "(-Phil-)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
22) Re: Speed Indication Issue - Toyota Yaris Conversion
by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23) Re: What is the typical amperage draw of the field for a sepex motor?
by "Joseph T. " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
24) Re: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by Chris Robison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
25) RE: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
by Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
26) Dc to Dc ?s
by billb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
27) Re: What is the typical amperage draw of the field for a sepex
motor?
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
28) Re: Dc to Dc ?s
by Dan Frederiksen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
29) Re: EV1 Leasing Requirements ???
by "Peter VanDerWal" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Begin Message ---
I dunno if someone already posted this, but Toyota has applied for on
road testing in Japan of their next gen, which is a plug in Prius
with Lion batteries.
Wonder how much that'll be?
Tom in Maine
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I defer to the expert.
I was looking at that from the math perspective
L is mostly fixed, di/dt is steady state, the voltage is determined.
I liked this explination
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_16/3.html
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I was gonna try a different approach
Use those little curvy diet coke bottles(so the air can get past) with
just the right amount of water in them and an icechest with a 120mm 12V fan.
Since I drive to work in the morning and the hot part is driving home, I
plan on carrying the ice chest into work and recharging the bottles in
the freezer :-)
It just hasn't gotten hot enough to bother yet.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Although the email being sent in html is the source of the problem, The
mechanism is in place to view the text. The List Proc is not handleing
this the way it was designed! It is stripping the html but leaving the
header. I don't know what they are using but a tad of administrating
might allow it to print the text only mime type of the multipart/mime
that is being sent.
of course, my client could too, but then we still have the html sucking
bandwidth.
After a
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
----
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
On 22 Jul 2007 at 13:49, GWMobile wrote:
> Html is not email. Html is internet website language.
> If we wanted to see that we would surf the web.
> If msn hotmail is that way it is time to get a real email. I would
> suggest earthlink.
Whether you send html or not really isn't related to your ISP; rather, it's a
function of your
mail client and its configuration. The client may be on your own computer or
it may be a
webpage you open in your browser.
The problem with AOL, MSN and such is that they usually attempt to force you
into using
their proprietary software on your computer. These interfaces limit what you
can configure,
and often make it difficult or impossible to send plain text mail.
Often there's a way to circumvent their software (not with MSN, though). It
may not be
immediately apparent to the average user - which is exactly what they are
counting on.
I think it's mostly that they want you to watch their advertising. I've never
used AOL, but I
remember the first time I watched a friend log on to her AOL account. I was
shocked at
how much screen real estate was devoted to ads, and how little to real
information. But I
digress ...
Anyway, if you're stuck with AOL or MSN, you have a few choices for sending
EVDL-
friendly plain text email :
1. Configure a "real" email client to work with AOL. As I understand it, AOL
requires a
client that speaks IMAP for receiving and SMTP for sending. I found links to
instructions
for setting up different versions of the MS clients, Eudora, Thunderbird, and
Apple Mail at
this page :
http://members.aol.com/adamkb/aol/mailfaq/imap/
If you have MSN, you're stuck; they lock you in to only Microsoft products.
Supposedly
you can use Hotmail and send plain text there. However, you have to use the
earlier
version of Hotmail, not the current one. And probably stand on your head and
type with
your toes. ;-) It appears that Microsoft REALLY doesn't want you sending plain
text.
2. Dump AOL or MSN and get a generic ISP. Many areas have reasonably priced
local
providers, and as a bonus you may get real human support staff (I do with
mine).
The downside is that you usually have to configure your own email client (which
is kind of
the point) rather than just stuffing a CD into the CD-rom and letting it do its
thing. The ISPs
usually provide instructions, but the process can be a bit intimidating for
beginners.
I don't know how common this is, but my public library provides a free dialup
for county
residents. You can connect for up to 2 hours per day. They don't provide a
mail server any
more, but you can use webmail or someone's leased host (see below).
If you have an "in," you may be able to get a free dialup account at a local
university. A
friend of mine does this. His brother was a professor and passed away years
ago, but he
still uses his brother's old dialup account.
Again, any of the above options typically allows (requires) you to configure
your computer
manually and, praise be, use whatever email client you want. For windoze I use
and
recommend Pegasus (pmail.com); others like Eudora and Thunderbird. Firefox has
built in
email, too.
3. Keep the proprietary (AOL, MSN, etc.) account, but use personal, non-html
webmail with
your browser.
If you lease server space for your website, chances are that your host has a
webmail
system that you can use. Even if you don't have a leased server, maybe a
friend of yours
has one and will set you up with an account. I don't know how good it is, but
I've seen
shared hosting offered for as little as $30 a year.
Most of these virtual host webmail systems - Squirrelmail, etc. - run on Linux
servers and
default to plain text. Usually, you (or your friend) run a web script
("control panel") to set it
up. Typically you assign a mailname and password, and decide how much storage
you
want to devote to mail. These systems usually have no advertising. This is a
really nice
option if you have access to it.
4. Use an ad-supported webmail system that defaults to plain text. One example
is Care2
at
http://passport.care2.net/signup.html
I cite this service just because it's one I know about. It's a politically
progressive
organization, which may or may not be desirable for some EVDL members. By
citing it
here I don't necessarily mean to endorse it or its views. Your mileage may
vary, etc.
Care2 is just one example; there are many others. It's not too unusual for
special-interest
organizations and websites to offer "free" (ad-supported) email. Sometimes your
messages
will carry their name and/or slogans (You don't have a choice, so EVDLers who
disagee
with the slogans will just have to be understanding). Some of this, but
probably not all,
sends plain text by default.
If you want to get sensory overload, type "free email" into a search engine.
5. Use one of the big ad-supported webmail services such as Yahoo, Gmail, or
Lycos. All
3 of these default to html (actually multipart / alternative), but can be
configured to send
plain text. These typically append ads or promotional messages to your email;
again you
have no choice.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Shaun Williams wrote:
Ah yes, the quintessential Aussie automotive icon, the ute. The "Work
Hard, Play Hard" boys toy.
They're pretty heavy at around 1600+kg (3500lb) but could carry the
1/3 lead required. I'm not sure I've heard of one been converted
though.
Awesome Aussie ute conversion here (warning, image heavy):
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/forum1/forum_posts.asp?TID=384&PN=1
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/forum1/forum_posts.asp?TID=472&PN=1
And ... they're offering conversion services:
http://www.thebackshed.com/foundryandfibreglass/
Regards,
Brian Hay.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I'm doing the icechest with fan currently, but the
problem is the humidity/condensation. It helps with
the heat, but just not quite good enough for
Texas/Oklahoma's humidity.
I went out to get my bilge pump at Wally World, and of
course they were out of stock. Will have to try
another one, later. I think pumping the chilled water
into the heater core, and with the drain hose in that
duct pan, the humidity/condensation will drain out of
the car.
--- Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was gonna try a different approach
>
> Use those little curvy diet coke bottles(so the air
> can get past) with
> just the right amount of water in them and an
> icechest with a 120mm 12V fan.
> Since I drive to work in the morning and the hot
> part is driving home, I
> plan on carrying the ice chest into work and
> recharging the bottles in
> the freezer :-)
>
> It just hasn't gotten hot enough to bother yet.
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
* ---REMAINDER OF MESSAGE TRUNCATED--- *
* This post contains a forbidden message format *
* (such as an attached file, a v-card, HTML formatting) *
* Lists at sjsu.edu only accept PLAIN TEXT *
* If your postings display this message your mail program *
* is not set to send PLAIN TEXT ONLY and needs adjusting *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Yes, they are 12v AGM's.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ev Performance (Robert Chew)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Ideal conversion candidate? Aussies are Lucky.
12 226 Ah batts? Are they 12 volt?
On 23/07/07, Brian Hay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Shaun Williams wrote:
> Ah yes, the quintessential Aussie automotive icon, the ute. The "Work
> Hard, Play Hard" boys toy.
>
> They're pretty heavy at around 1600+kg (3500lb) but could carry the
> 1/3 lead required. I'm not sure I've heard of one been converted
> though.
Awesome Aussie ute conversion here (warning, image heavy):
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/forum1/forum_posts.asp?TID=384&PN=1
http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/forum1/forum_posts.asp?TID=472&PN=1
And ... they're offering conversion services:
http://www.thebackshed.com/foundryandfibreglass/
Regards,
Brian Hay.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Sounds good. that should be a very good development as it would
constitute the first mainstream modern (at least pseudo) EV as far as I
can tell.
I hope they change the design away from the electric clutch/ parallel
configuration into a more viable serial design so it can truly operate
as an EV at all speeds.
should be interesting if they get it out soon
a guess is maybe 5% more expensive and a 20mile pure EV range?
Dan
Tom Gocze wrote:
I dunno if someone already posted this, but Toyota has applied for on
road testing in Japan of their next gen, which is a plug in Prius with
Lion batteries.
Wonder how much that'll be?
Tom in Maine
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Looks like a Curtis to me.....
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cor van de Water" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Friday, July 20, 2007 6:24 PM
Subject: Zilla inside picture (Hot, Cold and Broken)
I do not know if it was posted already,
but I was leafing through an EDN and suddenly
my eye caught the captioning under the first picture
of the article about thermal design "Hot Cold and Broken".
It read:
"This electric-car-motor controller
experienced a catastrophic
failure (courtesy Otmar Ebenhoech)."
The picture show the Zilla that Otmar described
in his blog that was one of 20 he was making around
the beginning of the year and pushing it to its
limits, he discovered that it was not working as
he expected - causing a big, smoldering mess.
The first picture in the article shows the Zilla
after the events, I am also posting this just in case
there is any interest in seeing the insides of a Zilla
without actually purchasing one ;-)
The article is online here:
http://www.edn.com/article/CA6426879.html?ref=nbsa
Cor van de Water
Systems Architect
Proxim Wireless Corporation http://www.proxim.com
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Private: http://www.cvandewater.com
Skype: cor_van_de_water IM: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Tel: +1 408 542 5225 VoIP: +31 20 3987567 FWD# 25925
Fax: +1 408 731 3675 eFAX: +31-87-784-1130
Second Life: www.secondlife.com/?u=3b42cb3f4ae249319edb487991c30acb
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well...?
Any EV1 leasees to comment...?
On 7/22/07, Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mel Gibson in "Who Killed the Electric Car" describes a greuling interview, a
resume required and locations of bodily tatoos :-O
Sounds like they did the full background investigation and maybe EVen the
endoscopy, doh :-O
> Joseph T. wrote:
> <snip a bit>
> And your income had to be at least 100k to lease the car? And then you
> had to pass a test? I've never heard of these either. Anyone with soem
> real EV1 leasing experience?
>
>
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
I have never used it before, but the Brusa DC/DC converters from
Metric Mind look pretty good. Metric Mind, as I see it, has a
repuatation of providing high-quality EV products, at a price few can
afford. However, the Brusa DC/DC converters are quite cost
competitive.
On 7/22/07, Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Bill & Nancy wrote:
> I just bought a dc/dc from Astrodyne www.astrodyne.com for a 72 volt
> system. They have one for a 72-144 volt system for around $135, model
> #sd350d with adjustable voltage output at around 28 amps. I am
> installing it tomorrow.
In general, I've found Astrodyne products pretty good, but have not
tested this family of parts. One precaution is that this unit is not
sealed or protected for outdoor use; beware of mounting it where it may
get dirty or wet!
Note that 72-144vdc are the absolute minimum and maximum input voltages;
not the range of nominal voltages. This is really a 96vdc nominal DC/DC;
not one intended for a 72v to 144v pack.
A 2v cell can range from 1.75v (under load, at 0% SOC) to 2.5v (being
charged, at 100% SOC). A 72vdc nominal pack is made of 36 2v cells, so
it can range from 63v to 90v. The low end (63v) is out of spec for this
DC/DC converter, and may cause it to overheat, brown out, or shut down.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
mostly because this is the first manual transmission car I've ever
driven and I have no finesse with a clutch. I have been thinking
though, that some of the problem is the high torque on the low end?
But now I have a new data point (and an amusing story): while out of
town, I let my husband drive the EV to work. He supposedly knows how
to drive a stick. When I called to let him know I'm stuck overnight
because of a cancelled flight, he told me that he popped a tire on the
EV while backing into the driveway - hit a corner of a raised flower
bed. I asked him if he did a spastic reverse move like I do, and he
said yes and he now appreciates why I won't parallel park the EV :-)
So I'm curious if this is more likely to be user error, or is reverse
gear really that different?
De
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Rather than spend money get a gmail account.
I have not seen it attaché any spam to any emails from gmail.
Also if you go into the options of gmail you will see an option to use any
email client software you want along with instructions on how to configure
them.
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of GWMobile
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 3:50 PM
To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: "Message truncated" problem
Html is not email. Html is internet website language.
If we wanted to see that we would surf the web.
If msn hotmail is that way it is time to get a real email. I would
suggest earthlink.
Inexpensive and no limits on what you can do.
Its real email. Free email is full of junk for others to see - usually
encoded in the html.
That's why noone wants it.
On Sun, 22 Jul 2007 6:14 am, Michael Mohlere wrote:
> All -
>
> I have msn hotmail, and can attest to the fact that the "new" version
> does not provide an option to send email in plain text format,
> so.......whenever I want to post to the list, I have to also remember
> to switch back to the old interface....
>
> If you see some SPAM on the list from me, it's because I forgot to do
> it!!! The MAEAA list accepts html, so sometimes the noodle slips up....
>
> I realize there are probably some good reasons for the list only
> accepting plain text emails, but would be nice if there was a way to
> accept html...I mean, only members of the list can post to it, right??
>
> Mike
>
>
> From: "David Roden (Akron OH USA)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Reply-To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: "Message truncated" problem
> Date: Sun, 22 Jul 2007 03:46:55 -0400
>
> On 21 Jul 2007, John Wayland wrote:
>
>> What change in the EVDL happened a few months ago to make
>> me start seeing maybe 20% of the emails from the EVDL turned into
>> this
>> gibberish 'truncated' message crap?
>
> Nothing changed in the EVDL. What happened is that several mail
> services
> released new versions which defaulted to html mail, and made it either
> difficult or impossible to switch back to plain text mail.
>
> MSN cannot be set to plain text, nor can MS Exchange's web interface.
> AOL users have to specifically act to force plain text, message by
> message.
> The major webmail providers, Yahoo and Gmail, both can be changed to
> plain
> text, but default to html.
>
> BTW, the number of html messages isn't even close to 20%. Most people
> are very conscientious about expending the necessary effort to send
> plain
> text. However, we do have a handful who (1) forget; (2) can't, or (3)
> don't
> choose to do this. I can ask them to, but that's about as far as it
> goes.
>
> If you're now using Outlook, which always shows html when it's
> available (you
> have no choice), I suggest that you download Pegasus mail from
> pmail.com
> and install it. Pegasus has an option (in tools - options - incoming
> mail -
> message reader, IIRC) which directs the program to always show the
> plain
> text version of multipart alternative messages, rather than the html.
> Use
> Pegasus set up that way, and you'll almost never see that "Truncated"
> message. Pegasus is uncrippled donationware.
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> http://liveearth.msn.com
www.GlobalBoiling.com for daily images about hurricanes, globalwarming
and the melting poles.
www.ElectricQuakes.com daily solar and earthquake images.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
We are using the factory speed sensor system as originally
installed. The first operational test shows the factory speedometer
reading as very low, below what should be the actual speed. We ran
the motor with the car on jack stands and watched the rotation of the
tires against the speedometer indication. The speedometer seems very
low, off by at least 50% if not more, although we have not yet been
able to take actual measurements of the sensor output or wheel RPM.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to the probably cause of this
discrepancy in readings??
Here is a link to the factory diagram of the Speed Sensor
Connection. The three connections to the speed sensor consist of the
+12V, Ground, and Signal Wire to the Dashboard Computer/Speedometer
Cmbo( Pulsed)
http://web.mac.com/markdutko/iWeb/Site/speed%20sensor.html
Mark
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Well, I know that when I first learned to drive a stick, I was pretty
lousy in reverse, and hit several trees and drove through ditches and
such. Luckily it was a 1982 subaru that I paid $50 for, so that
didn't hurt it.
But I'm alot better now, as long as I don't have a trailer :-) It
seems like the low end torque would actually benefit, because you
could give it very little "gas" with stalling it, and move more
smoothly -- I know that I find ICE engines with low torque alot harder
to move slowly effectively -- you have to be good at slipping the
clutch.
I suspect it's more related to throttle reponse of the electric motor
-- and that it would be just as hard to move very slowly in 1st gear
too -- but you almost never try to move very slowly in 1st gear I bet
-- when it takes off really fast, it's good, because that's what
you're trying to do. Just a question, how is driving the EV in snow
and ice? Because that's one area where you'd notice the lack of
throttle control going forwards. I know that the one time I tried to
drive a gorilla, I had to practice a bit to avoid spinning the tires,
because I wasn't use to the very quick torquey reponse (and it didn't
have a clutch at all).
In a few months I'll let you know whether I notice anything like this
in my EV -- hopefully it'll be running by then.
Z
On 7/22/07, Deanne Mott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
mostly because this is the first manual transmission car I've ever
driven and I have no finesse with a clutch. I have been thinking
though, that some of the problem is the high torque on the low end?
But now I have a new data point (and an amusing story): while out of
town, I let my husband drive the EV to work. He supposedly knows how
to drive a stick. When I called to let him know I'm stuck overnight
because of a cancelled flight, he told me that he popped a tire on the
EV while backing into the driveway - hit a corner of a raised flower
bed. I asked him if he did a spastic reverse move like I do, and he
said yes and he now appreciates why I won't parallel park the EV :-)
So I'm curious if this is more likely to be user error, or is reverse
gear really that different?
De
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
Just wondering if I can measure field current with the 20A range on my
DMM, or if I need a bigger ammeter. It's just sitting on the table
right now, and I don't have any of the final instrumentation yet, just
playing around testing it.
It's a 96 volt 20HP (cont) GE Sepex motor. Big 300lb beast of a motor.
Z
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
hehe
I'm just guessing but maybe it's because an EV has no idle? it might
hook on to the clutch and surprise you with its grip.
I think it shoud be possible to control it once adapted to its behavior
unless it's magic :)
Deanne Mott wrote:
My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
mostly because this is the first manual transmission car I've ever
driven and I have no finesse with a clutch. I have been thinking
though, that some of the problem is the high torque on the low end?
But now I have a new data point (and an amusing story): while out of
town, I let my husband drive the EV to work. He supposedly knows how
to drive a stick. When I called to let him know I'm stuck overnight
because of a cancelled flight, he told me that he popped a tire on the
EV while backing into the driveway - hit a corner of a raised flower
bed. I asked him if he did a spastic reverse move like I do, and he
said yes and he now appreciates why I won't parallel park the EV :-)
So I'm curious if this is more likely to be user error, or is reverse
gear really that different?
De
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Why are you using the clutch at all? Put it in reverse, then let the clutch
go, then feather the throttle. If your reverse is too sensitive on the
throttle, maybe you should install a speed limiting resistor in the throttle
pot circuit for reverse.
I've found that many EV's don't have a speed reduction in reverse, but could
benefit from it.
-Phil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Deanne Mott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@listproc.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 7:10 PM
Subject: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
mostly because this is the first manual transmission car I've ever
driven and I have no finesse with a clutch. I have been thinking
though, that some of the problem is the high torque on the low end?
But now I have a new data point (and an amusing story): while out of
town, I let my husband drive the EV to work. He supposedly knows how
to drive a stick. When I called to let him know I'm stuck overnight
because of a cancelled flight, he told me that he popped a tire on the
EV while backing into the driveway - hit a corner of a raised flower
bed. I asked him if he did a spastic reverse move like I do, and he
said yes and he now appreciates why I won't parallel park the EV :-)
So I'm curious if this is more likely to be user error, or is reverse
gear really that different?
De
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Replaced the tires with a smaller size can impact odometer reading,
and so I assume that speedometer readings would also be affected.
Of course, a slight change in tires size could not cause such a
tremendous false reading.
I believe that speedometer sensors in an ICE car are attached to the
transmission (right?) so maybe when you were taking out the engine of
your car you by mistake touched one of the wires leading to the
transmission, or maybe you damaged the computer? Or maybe the
computer, or wire, or speedometer sensor are broken.
As you can see, I'm just guessing randomly. Maybe a little more info
will help others be able to diagnose your issue. Also, since the speed
sensor is stock, you should be able to take into to any random store
to have them check it.
On 7/22/07, Mark Dutko <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
We are using the factory speed sensor system as originally
installed. The first operational test shows the factory speedometer
reading as very low, below what should be the actual speed. We ran
the motor with the car on jack stands and watched the rotation of the
tires against the speedometer indication. The speedometer seems very
low, off by at least 50% if not more, although we have not yet been
able to take actual measurements of the sensor output or wheel RPM.
Does anyone have any suggestions as to the probably cause of this
discrepancy in readings??
Here is a link to the factory diagram of the Speed Sensor
Connection. The three connections to the speed sensor consist of the
+12V, Ground, and Signal Wire to the Dashboard Computer/Speedometer
Cmbo( Pulsed)
http://web.mac.com/markdutko/iWeb/Site/speed%20sensor.html
Mark
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A 20hp continuous electric motor will typically use more 20 amps.
On 7/22/07, Zeke Yewdall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Just wondering if I can measure field current with the 20A range on my
DMM, or if I need a bigger ammeter. It's just sitting on the table
right now, and I don't have any of the final instrumentation yet, just
playing around testing it.
It's a 96 volt 20HP (cont) GE Sepex motor. Big 300lb beast of a motor.
Z
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On Sun, 2007-07-22 at 22:10 -0400, Deanne Mott wrote:
> My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
> different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
> my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
> it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
I am the same way. In most of the EVs that I've driven in 1st gear and
reverse, especially ones powered by a Curtis but also with a Zilla, I
have a hard time applying power smoothly when trying to move slowly in a
very low gear. I sometimes hit it too hard and chirp the tires, and then
I overreact and end up bouncing the driveline on the clutch springs. I
believe that in most cars, the gear ratio for reverse is even lower than
1st gear, which seems to make the problem worse for me.
Most recently this was when test-driving Rob Hirschfeld's newly
converted Rav4 (http://ezehicle.com). I'd been driving it very well,
shifting smoothly and generally being nice to it, until I got back to
his driveway and stopped to back it in. Rob was very gracious in
containing his nervousness as I screeched and bumped the car back to his
garage doors. :-)
I think it's mainly a matter of practice though. With time, I think
you'll get the hang of it.
--
Christopher Robison
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
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I don't have any problem backing or in 1st (although I never use 1st). The
Zilla in a 4000 lb truck is very smooth. I have total
control of the vehicle. I can apply enough current that I can hear the
controller whine slightly, the slack comes out of the
drive line, and the amps increase slowly, then I just feather it up a bit and
the truck can creep as slow as I want. If I jam on
it though and spin the tires it would quickly hit the rpm limit, and once the
tires hook up there is a pretty big lurch. But
thats just playing around and not typical driving.
Mike,
Anchorage, Ak.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Behalf Of Chris Robison
> Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 7:55 PM
> To: ev@listproc.sjsu.edu
> Subject: Re: Driving in reverse, spastic moves
>
>
> On Sun, 2007-07-22 at 22:10 -0400, Deanne Mott wrote:
> > My basic question: does reverse gear in an EV normally behave
> > different than an ICE reverse gear? I am a total spaz backing up in
> > my Voltsrabbit Cabriolet. It is rare that I am able to smoothly back
> > it up from a stop - I usually zoom it too fast. I figured this is
>
>
> I am the same way. In most of the EVs that I've driven in 1st gear and
> reverse, especially ones powered by a Curtis but also with a Zilla, I
> have a hard time applying power smoothly when trying to move slowly in a
> very low gear. I sometimes hit it too hard and chirp the tires, and then
> I overreact and end up bouncing the driveline on the clutch springs. I
> believe that in most cars, the gear ratio for reverse is even lower than
> 1st gear, which seems to make the problem worse for me.
>
> Most recently this was when test-driving Rob Hirschfeld's newly
> converted Rav4 (http://ezehicle.com). I'd been driving it very well,
> shifting smoothly and generally being nice to it, until I got back to
> his driveway and stopped to back it in. Rob was very gracious in
> containing his nervousness as I screeched and bumped the car back to his
> garage doors. :-)
>
> I think it's mainly a matter of practice though. With time, I think
> you'll get the hang of it.
>
> --
> Christopher Robison
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://ohmbre.org <-- 1999 Isuzu Hombre + Z2K + Warp13!
>
>
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Hi Guys ,
I am looking for a dc to dc in a hard to find input range, about 170 to
250 vdc.to run on a 216 volt nominal system. I have nice dc to dc
converters for 120 vdc input and more for 300 vdc input but need the
range in between with a 14 vdc output at 50 or more amps. Any
suggestions? Thanks, Bill Brinsmead
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Are you just looking to get an idea of the resistance of the field winding
or...?
At any rate, if you only use a 12V battery, I'm pretty sure the field
winding will draw less than 20 Amps. If you have a 6V battery, you could
start there.
The current draw of the field winding is pretty much linear with voltage
and is generally not effected much by the RPM of the motor. So you could
measure it at 6V and multiply by 16 to get a good idea of what it would be
at 96V, or measure it at 12V and multiply by 8.
> Just wondering if I can measure field current with the 20A range on my
> DMM, or if I need a bigger ammeter. It's just sitting on the table
> right now, and I don't have any of the final instrumentation yet, just
> playing around testing it.
>
> It's a 96 volt 20HP (cont) GE Sepex motor. Big 300lb beast of a motor.
>
> Z
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
--- Begin Message ---
one of the reasons I'm looking into making the electronics myself.
a controller should fit 'all' voltages, have a DCDC in it as well as
recharger
100-400v battery voltage. AC 110/220v output too just for show for when
you just have to power that washing machine on the road :)
peace... no peace :)
Dan
billb wrote:
Hi Guys ,
I am looking for a dc to dc in a hard to find input range, about 170
to 250 vdc.to run on a 216 volt nominal system. I have nice dc to dc
converters for 120 vdc input and more for 300 vdc input but need the
range in between with a 14 vdc output at 50 or more amps. Any
suggestions? Thanks, Bill Brinsmead
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Back when you could actually lease one, I'd heard the same thing. You had
to have a 6 figure income and had to take a personality test to make sure
you had the "right" kind of personality to lease one.
I just figured it was GMs way of limiting the number of acceptable
applicants. I think they figured that way they could be justified when
they claimed that nobody wanted them. Kind of backfired when, even with
the restrictions, they had many times as many "acceptable" applicants as
there were EV1s available.
Of course that doesn't stop them from claiming that nobody wanted them and
using the excuse that they could only lease 600 of them, convienently
failing to mention that they only made 600 available (or 650, whichever it
was).
I'd heard of one dealer that stopped taking names for their waiting list
because they already had over 600 qualified applicants and no more EV1s
were being made.
> Well...?
>
> Any EV1 leasees to comment...?
>
> On 7/22/07, Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Mel Gibson in "Who Killed the Electric Car" describes a greuling
>> interview, a resume required and locations of bodily tatoos :-O
>> Sounds like they did the full background investigation and maybe EVen
>> the endoscopy, doh :-O
>>
>> > Joseph T. wrote:
>> > <snip a bit>
>> > And your income had to be at least 100k to lease the car? And then you
>> > had to pass a test? I've never heard of these either. Anyone with soem
>> > real EV1 leasing experience?
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
--
If you send email to me, or the EVDL, that has > 4 lines of legalistic
junk at the end; then you are specifically authorizing me to do whatever I
wish with the message. By posting the message you agree that your long
legalistic signature is void.
--- End Message ---
