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Today's Topics:
1. Re: My experience with Electro Automotive (Pestka, Dennis J)
2. Re: UltraCapacitors EEStor (Jeff Shanab)
3. Re: Funny message (Jeff Shanab)
4. Re: UltraCapacitors EEStor (Jeff Shanab)
5. Re: Chev S-10 Ideas? (Steve Kobb)
6. Re: motor maintainence question (Jim Husted)
7. Re: Kelly controllers (ampaynz1)
8. Re: battery sag question (Andre' Blanchard)
9. Re: EVA-USA (Lawrence Rhodes)
10. Re: battery sag question (Jeff Major)
11. Re: Kelly controllers/ Noise (M. Barkley)
12. Any Good Source for Good Used Equipment? (gottdi)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 09:06:38 -0600
From: "Pestka, Dennis J" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] My experience with Electro Automotive
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I also sent my 1965 Datsun truck transmission to Electro Automotive, end
of September.
Cost about the same as the bus ~ $75 Fed-Ex.
I can only hope that mine is perfect like yours.
Dennis
I can't say anything about the time it took you to get your addaptor ,
but I think you took a chance relying on spec. dimensions for fitting
your bell housing to the new face plate. When EA (Mike Brown) fabricated
the addaptor for my Advanced DC motor to SAAB 96, 4 speed transmission,
he advised me to box it up and send it via Grayhound bus from NYC to
Felton, CA. I forget how long it took, because it was back in 1993, but
when I got it back (I recall it was about two months) it was perfect. I
think the tranny bus fare was about $75. round trip and the addaptor and
hub was $750.00.
--
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------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:07:50 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] UltraCapacitors EEStor
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Dan did you use a dvorak keyboard to type that email? it is known to be
better, more efficient,more ergonomic.
Personally I have no problem with either units. Please people, use what
you like with me. As a multi discipline engineering student there are
more units to worry about. Certain things work out better in SI and
certain things work out better in "standard" units.
I can say that the main argument for metric system is that it is based
on 10; but After 23 years in a machine shop I prefer the inch system
when machining because they use base 10 anyway and +/- .001 of an inch
is coveniant tolerance. (+/- .4mm is a little messy and .1mm is too
tight of a tolerance adding cost.) But to be honest, when a print came
in in SI, I just flipped the switch in the digital and carried on the
rest of the machinist got out their calculator and convert the entire
drawing.
If you look at the drawing I did for my nissan adapter,
http://cvevs.jfs-tech.com/Z31_non-turbo-pattern.jpg
I drew everything in metric because that was the natural units it was
defined in, but I also put the converted values in brackets above.
The only request I have is that people do put the units and use those
units conventionally (not necessarily correct. slugs anyone?)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:11:12 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Funny message
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I got the same type of response from a Nissan Mechanic. He called it
"sacrilege" that I converted the 300zx to electric until I left him a 6'
long black strips on the cement to talk to his coworkers about.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:13:01 -0800
From: Jeff Shanab <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] UltraCapacitors EEStor
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Gravity is everywhere, we factored it out on both sides of the
equation(ocean) :-)
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:15:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Steve Kobb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Chev S-10 Ideas?
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Rush-5 wrote:
>
>
>
> Trojan says that the J185P, at the 20c rate is 195 AH. If you translate
> that
> to the 1c rate (195 x .57), it is 111 AH. Since you have 13 batteries, or
> a
> 156 v pack, that means you'll have 17316 watts to 100% DOD. I've been
> figuring my S-10 at 350 Whrs/mile and using my number you'll be able to go
> 49 miles at 100% DOD. If you use only 50% DOD, you'll have a 25 or so trip
> between charges.
>
>
Rush --
You're quite right... and thank you for reminding me to change that on the
evalbum page. I had put that 40-mile range goal up there some time ago --
and way before I settled on the vehicle and batteries that I eventually
chose. My stated goal has now been ammended, along with the math that I used
to derive it.
Of course, the REAL unknown is the denominator; i.e., what number to use for
the watt-hours per mile. 350 may be the right number... or maybe it will be
as low as 250.
Two items that argue in favor of a lower number: Nothing will be bleeding
off horsepower from my ADC. Air conditioning and power steering will be
energized from the low-voltage Optimas under the hood.
Also, Houston's horribly congested freeways often moves traffic along at 20
mph or less. Obviously, the current draw will be way less during those
times.
Anyway, thanks again for your observation!
Steve
--
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------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 07:41:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jim Husted <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] motor maintainence question
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hey Jon
>From what I can see in the pics everything looks
pretty good. There is a little electrical overload
signs on the brushes where they were transfering
current from the holders to the brushes instead of
through the brush shunt (or lead). It causes what
looks like a miniture river pattern or lightning
looking flaws you see on the sides of the brush.
Nothing to bad and the leads actually have a good
color still and the brushes have prenty of length
still.
You'll probably get a little brush chatter from
pulling them but they'll settle down after a bit, or
you could use some brush seater for a quicker seating.
Hope this helps
Cya
Jim Husted
Hi-Torque Electric
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------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 08:17:37 -0800 (PST)
From: ampaynz1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kelly controllers
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
Hi, thanks. I will try that. I was envisioning wrapping a big tow strap
around the the transmission and securing it to the frame. I have one other
problem. When I take off, the motor and transmission sounds fine. However
as soon as let off the pedal I hear this grinding rattling noise that gets
louder and disappears as rpm go very low. I had taken it all apart, removed
outer ring on flywheel, realigned with tool, and mated back with
transmission. The motor went on easy enough. Whenever the car accelerate it
goes away and then comes back when foot is off the pedal. Is this caused by
maybe a bad motor or misalignment? I know these motors are noisy to begin
with, but it is extra rattly when coasting.
Andrew Payne
damon henry wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:17:09 -0800
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kelly controllers
>>
>>
>> Hi, yes I do have starting torque issues as even with a controller. I
>> searched for that thread, but couldn't find it.
>> On takeoff it can literally lift the motor and transmission up vertically
>> quite a bit and I see shifter on left side as far as it can move.
>
> To me this suggests that you need to add some kind of torque strap to your
> motor mounting arraingement. Find a place on your adaptor or motor mount
> that you can tie securely to your frame to counter the effect of the
> startup torque.
>
> damon
> _________________________________________________________________
> Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista? + Windows Live?.
> http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
>
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 10:54:13 -0600
From: "Andre' Blanchard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery sag question
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
At 09:00 AM 11/19/2007, you wrote:
>For "Maximum Power Transfer" (from the battery pack to
>the controller) you need to match your source
>impedance to your load impedance, in which case, you
>end up with half of your open circuit voltage coming
>from your source. In other words, if your battery
"match your source impedance to your load impedance"
Implies that you have control of and can change the source impedance.
If that is the case you want to make it as low as possible, zero would be
nice, for max power to the load regardless of the load impedance.
Matching the load impedance to your source impedance is normally what is done.
__________
Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 10:45:54 -0800
From: "Lawrence Rhodes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EVA-USA
To: <Undisclosed-Recipient:;>
Cc: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
One thing I'd say is true is it doesn't cost any more to make a nice looking
car vs. an econobox. I have also gone through my Mustang stage. But if you
think 3 wheeled vehicles aren't cool check these out.
http://www.designmassif.com/trihawk/ Trihawk. Unbeatable cornering.
http://www.3wheelers.com/enter.html 1300 threewheelers including some
electrics.
http://www.rqriley.com/ Kit design.
I'm interested in the minimum impact with the most usefullness. Yes I have
a Suburban(1985) but it runs on Vegetable oil & cost me only 2 grand. But I
also have a Mercedes 100% veg car(1977), electric car, motorcycle, moped and
various scooters & bicycles. I consider what I do as recycling & reusing.
I want to avoid buying new vehicles unless there is a great advantage.
Lawrence Rhodes.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven **" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> I'd be embarrassed because it looks like a toy car. I'm just not
> fanatical enough to give up on driving a cool car. I'll admit it...
> When I was looking for my first car a few years ago, I went with what
> looked good. It's not horrible with respect to mileage and
> usefulness, but I could've done better(it's a Mazda 3s). Maybe that
> makes me a horrible person or whatever. But I don't think I'm
> abnormal in that sense. I think my opinion is fairly typical of
> people my age. I have several co-workers that definitely share this
> opinion.
>
> The Tesla Roadster is what got me thinking about electric vehicles.
> There's a car that is cool not in spite of being electric, but because
> it's electric! I didn't start thinking about electric because I got
> scared about global warming or peak oil or whatever. I started
> because I think it's cool and makes sense (why waste time on polluting
> oil products when there are dozens of ways to produce electricity with
> little to no pollution). Three-wheeled motorcycles with a fancy shell
> are not cool... Give it four wheels, make it look like a normal car,
> make it mostly operate like a normal car, make it reasonably
> affordable, and I'll buy one. It's that simple. Until then, I'll
> work on converting a normal car to electric since that's the only way
> I know of to get one.
>
> -Steven
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:02:37 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Major <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] battery sag question
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Hi Andre',
I think the point is that you do have control of the
source impedance when choosing your energy storage
system. Yes, zero source impedance would be nice, but
who can afford one of those? So it becomes a
compromise of cost, mass and performance. Being able
to calculate the maximum power transfer is important
so you do not end up with a energy storage system (or
power source) incapable of delivering your required
power.
My thoughts on the subject.
Jeff M
--- Andre' Blanchard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> "match your source impedance to your load impedance"
>
> Implies that you have control of and can change the
> source impedance.
> If that is the case you want to make it as low as
> possible, zero would be
> nice, for max power to the load regardless of the
> load impedance.
>
> Matching the load impedance to your source impedance
> is normally what is done.
> __________
> Andre' B. Clear Lake, Wi.
____________________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:10:20 -0800 (PST)
From: "M. Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kelly controllers/ Noise
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Andrew, the aircraft generator/motor has two shafts,
the smaller one usually has a rubber bushing between
it and the larger hollow one. It might have shrank,
not to mention, did you bolt together the two large
discs on the front shaft of the motor to keep both of
the motor shafts solid? If you are using a
flywheel/clutch this movement of those shafts could be
causing you grief.
M.Barkley
--- ampaynz1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi, thanks. I will try that. I was envisioning
> wrapping a big tow strap
> around the the transmission and securing it to the
> frame. I have one other
> problem. When I take off, the motor and transmission
> sounds fine. However
> as soon as let off the pedal I hear this grinding
> rattling noise that gets
> louder and disappears as rpm go very low. I had
> taken it all apart, removed
> outer ring on flywheel, realigned with tool, and
> mated back with
> transmission. The motor went on easy enough.
> Whenever the car accelerate it
> goes away and then comes back when foot is off the
> pedal. Is this caused by
> maybe a bad motor or misalignment? I know these
> motors are noisy to begin
> with, but it is extra rattly when coasting.
>
>
>
> Andrew Payne
>
>
> damon henry wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 15:17:09 -0800
> >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
> >> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Kelly controllers
> >>
> >>
> >> Hi, yes I do have starting torque issues as even
> with a controller. I
> >> searched for that thread, but couldn't find it.
> >> On takeoff it can literally lift the motor and
> transmission up vertically
> >> quite a bit and I see shifter on left side as far
> as it can move.
> >
> > To me this suggests that you need to add some kind
> of torque strap to your
> > motor mounting arraingement. Find a place on your
> adaptor or motor mount
> > that you can tie securely to your frame to counter
> the effect of the
> > startup torque.
> >
> > damon
> >
>
_________________________________________________________________
> > Put your friends on the big screen with Windows
> Vista?? + Windows Live???.
> >
>
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_MediaCtr_bigscreen_102007
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
> >
>
> --
> View this message in context:
>
http://www.nabble.com/Re%3A-Firefly%27s-press-release-tf4731144s25542.html#a13859923
> Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List
> mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2007 11:26:26 -0800 (PST)
From: gottdi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Any Good Source for Good Used Equipment?
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
So far I am at wits end trying to find good used components for my first
conversion. I am looking for good equipment that will go good together and
get me what I want. Maybe someone is upgrading and is willing to sell off
their old stuff but at reasonable prices. I want a good motor and controller
but I don't want those old style motors used in years past. I need something
more modern like the ADC 9" and good controller. I need to at least have
something that can handle at least 144 volts. I will most likely use less
but I want a motor that will handle that or more. Good used is what I want.
I know they are out there but none really showing on E-Bay or Craigslist nor
Here. So I need help on where to go. I do have one person out by me that has
an old VW trunk that is munched but has all good parts. He is not sure yet
if he wants to sell it but it has been sitting unused for over 2 years.
Grrrrrr. I will ask him again but so far that is all I have.
Please help. No junk please.
72 Datsun 510
I will need an adaptor. New or used on this one.
Thanks so much for all your help and information.
Pete
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End of EV Digest, Vol 4, Issue 56
*********************************
