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Today's Topics:
1. Re: EV For Wind Farm Tour (Mike Shipway)
2. Re: EV For Wind Farm Tour (Chuck Homic)
3. Re: Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum Check
Valves (Roland Wiench)
4. Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum CheckValves
(M. Barkley)
5. Re: EV For Wind Farm Tour (EVDL Administrator)
6. Re: Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
CheckValves (Frank Schmitt)
7. Re: extending battery life (Eduardo K.)
8. Re: RE : spark EV (Alan Brinkman)
9. Re: GM should sell Volt sans batteries (Richard Acuti)
10. Re: RE : spark EV (Steven **)
11. Re: EV For Wind Farm Tour (Lee Hart)
12. Re: RE : spark EV (Chuck Homic)
13. Re: RE : spark EV (Ben)
14. looking for charger (fsabolich)
15. Re: Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum Check
Valves (Bill Dube)
16. Re: Electric Dragin' 1/8 mile times have been posted.
(Roger Stockton)
17. Re: Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
CheckValves (Roger Stockton)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 10:01:29 -0500
From: "Mike Shipway" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV For Wind Farm Tour
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Regen may not be a "must".
It would depend on the exact nature of the climb.
If it is a steady uphill grade from the garage to the top of the
mountain, then all you'd need to get back down would be good brakes
and enough juice to get it rolling at the top.
Perhaps a little extra at the bottom to get to the charging station.
I've coasted (read "ran out of gas") nearly 2 miles down 800 foot drop
in New York State, and I'm sure that mountains in Maui are more
impressive than that.
BTW, can you give us contact info for this wind farm tour?
I'm working on a new telescope* which is going up on Haleakala, Maui,
and so I may be in Maui come summer.
Mike-
* http://pan-starrs.ifa.hawaii.edu/public/
On Feb 11, 2008 9:19 PM, David Sharpe <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Your EV must have regen because of the elevation changes. I suggest an AC
> drive or failing that a compound motor (Kostov). Praps they will let you
> charge on site. You could do a topographical survey of the rout indicating
> distances & vertical changes. Will the EV do other trips?
> I cant offer advice about a suitable van or 4wd as Im in Australia and dont
> know what subject vehs you have there.
> Regards
> David Sharpe
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "martin emde" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 12:53 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] EV For Wind Farm Tour
>
>
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > I teach an EV conversion course at a high school on Maui. We are
> > currently
> > working on our second conversion. Just recently we took our class on a
> > field trip to the local wind farm (Kaheawa Wind Power
> > http://www.kaheawa.com/kwp/ ) which consists of 20 turbines @ 1.5 MW each
> > located on the slopes of West Maui. As we ascended the mountain in a
> > large,
> > gas hungry van, the students immediately suggested to our guide a
> > "greener"
> > approach to the tour. "How about an electric van/suv/jeep?" Following
> > the
> > tour we talked a bit more about some sort of partnership with the company
> > in
> > which our class could convert a vehicle that could be used for their
> > tours.
> > In return our program would receive the financial support to complete the
> > conversion. It's one of those win-win situations where everyone involved
> > has something to gain. So here's my question: Can anyone recommend some
> > good candidate conversion vehicles for this specific application? The
> > minimum requirements are that it must be able to carry a full load of
> > passengers up a 4 mile gravel road with a 3000 ft. elevation gain (17% max
> > grade) on a single charge. The vehicle would do no more than one such
> > tour
> > per day so it could be charged over night. In fact they currently do no
> > more that 6 tours per year. The vehicle should seat at least 4 including
> > the driver yet must be able to carry the max number of passengers that it
> > was designed for. It does not have to be 4WD yet that would be a plus.
> > The
> > brakes must obviously be capable of bringing the passengers back down the
> > mountain safely. If you know of the perfect vehicle please let us know.
> > Also, what components would you use in terms of motor (size) and
> > controller. At this point we are thinking lead-acid yet a lithium pack
> > may
> > be an option. It turns our that the wind farm will be installing a 1MWhr
> > backup battery at their site in the next few weeks to do some energy
> > storage
> > testing. Perhaps this technology will lend itself to an EV. We have not
> > discussed any of the liability issues as of yet as that will surely enter
> > into the equation. Any advice or insight is appreciated.
> >
> > Martin Emde
> > www.seaburyhall.org/engineering
> > http://www.evalbum.com/1209
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
--
Michael Shipway
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype: mike.shipway
AIM: catbusmike
YIM: catbusmike
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:12:11 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV For Wind Farm Tour
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> Considering the cost of building the vehicle for the very few trips it
> will ever see (maybe 40 trips, 160 miles, before the batteries die of old
> age) this doesn't seem like an appropriate use of EV technology.
>
Maybe not as a vehicle, but I think the main purpose is as an
educational tool. The EV I'm building (or would build if the
temperature ever got above 20) will never be practical, but I'm building
it for fun and education and as a political statement. Then again, I
think if/when gasoline gets to $6, I'll be winning financially, too.
(If it does, I'll have to start on an elec minivan...)
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 09:16:32 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
Check Valves
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Dave,
Initially when a vacuum pump starts up, the internal check valve is clicking
open and close until there is enough vacuum to hold it close.
As the vacuum reaches above 18 in.hg in some pumps, you cannot hear it any
longer. The electric driven diaphragm type which is the cheapest type, but
the diaphragm it self makes a popping noise.
The independent auto parts store down the street from me, which also do
complete overhaul work of a vehicle, just like you see on the TV program
OVERHAUL, gave me a Ford belt driven vacuum pump, which is a diaphragm type.
One side of the diaphragm enclosure is vented to the outside air, so the
diaphragm can reset it self which each pump, otherwise the diaphragm will
remain collapse and will not reset it self.
I tested this pump on the bench without any check values and canister. This
pump would make a air bleeding sound, cause by the diaphragm pushing the air
in and out through very fine holes drill in the diaphragm cover. As the
vacuum in crease from 0 to 10 in.hg. it would also make a clicking noise
cause by the internal check valve.
>From 10 to 15 in.hg. the check value held more close and the clicking noise
lessen and when it got to 18 in.hg. I could not hardly hear it and at 20
in.hg., did not hear it, because the electric motor that I was using to
drive it, was loader.
Being that this was a old vacuum pump they took off a diesel pickup, I
wanted a new one, so I got a new belt driven GMC one that is use on one of
the diesel pickups. This pump is identical to the Ford pump, which is made
by the same company.
When installing this type of pump, you must install a vacuum reserve
canister were the vacuum line from the pump is pipe into the canister. I
use a inline vacuum check valve in this line to the canister which may be in
addition to the one in the pump.
The output vacuum port on the canister, has a inlet hole for a push in
vacuum check valve, which is the same type that plugs into your vacuum brake
booster. I also use this type of check valves to make inline check values
that you can place anyplace in your vacuum line.
The main vacuum line plugs into this vacuum check value that is plug into
the canister, goes directly to the brake booster vacuum check valve that is
plug into the brake vacuum booster.
If you need to tapped off this main vacuum line to run other vacuum assist
devices, you must install another check value off that main line to another
small vehicle vacuum canister that would be existing for your vacuum driven
accessories.
You will note, that I have five vacuum check valves in my vacuum system, one
in the pump, one between the pump and canister, one after the canister, one
at the brake vacuum booster, and one tapped off on the main vacuum line
between the canister and brake vacuum booster.
If I did not have these canister and check values, the vacuum would drop
right from 22 to 10 in.hg. and the clicking noise would come back again.
My GMC vacuum pump when starting up and is driven off the main motor and
while backing out of the garage, I get a initial clicking noise from the
internal check value inside the pump. As my vacuum comes up to above 15
in.hg. I cannot hear it any more.
Now if you want a vacuum pump that does not make the noise coming from a
diaphragm pump, use a vane type vacuum pump, it will still make a popping or
clicking noise at very low initial in.hg. but it also goes away at the
higher rpm.
This pump is made by Moroso which is design for racing. The 4-vane pump cost
about $560.00, bracket is about $45.00, and vacuum canisters are about
$35.00 to $70.00.
Source of supply for the pumps and accessories is jegs.com
My source of supply for the GMC or Ford vacuum pump is the auto dealer. The
vacuum check values are from a auto parts store that is size for your type
of brake vacuum booster in.hg.
If you want a motor to drive this pump instead using the main motor, I use a
130 vdc thread mill motor that I run at 29 volts, because at 130 vdc the rpm
is too much, all you need is about 1500 rpm. If you run off the main motor
with a belt, use a pulley on the vacuum pump twice as big that is on the
main motor to keep the rpm down.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:43 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum Check Valves
> I know this has been dealt with before but I cannot find a good solution
> to
> my noisy vacuum pump. A muffler has made it a bit quieter but it still is
> annoying to have a silent electric car with a brgggggggggggggggg sound
> from
> under the bonnet. (Which in my case is constant so I have to find out
> where the
> leak is.) Has anyone really had success with that surge protector in
> series
> with the power lead?
>
> Also when the vacuum pump shuts off what are you guys using to prevent the
> pump itself from leaking the vacuum? I have an old vacuum check valve in
> series with the vacuum port but it does not seem to seal very well.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Dave Delman
> 1981 Electric DeLorean Project
> electricdelorean.com
>
>
>
> **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
> Awards. Go to AOL Music.
> (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 08:28:47 -0800 (PST)
From: "M. Barkley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
CheckValves
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
Has anyone used the vacuum pump from the following
model cars?:
82 Skyhawk-J
82-85 Skylark-x
82 Cimmaron
84-86 Celebrity-A
82 Caprice-B
82 Cavalier-J
82-85 Citation-X
86 Cierra-A
82 Firenza-J
82-84 Omega-X
85-86 6000
82 J2000
82-84 Phoenix-X
I believe the GM partnumber is: 22034995
I'm wondering if they are quiet, and maybe can be had
from salvage yard stock, if of course all those older
cars haven't already been crushed.
--- Mark Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It was best in my conversion to mount it in a box
> along with the switch
> (square D). The box I used is galvanized metal and
> is insulated with
> fiberglass. The thomas pump has a "muffler" of
> sorts that reduces the sound
> but the box is really effective. You can barely
> hear the pump and with the
> hood shut and the car moving along you certainly
> don't. I even added a
> vacuum gauge and an emergency force-run switch in
> the unlikely event my
> automatic one should fail. Here is a link to mine:
>
>
http://bp3.blogger.com/_xouyKpqe9U4/RnP8CH8WfII/AAAAAAAAADM/48c3-MJf0As/s320/vacuum.jpg
>
> I suppose you could mount this somewhere else. It
> worked out good for mine
> over the motor. About anywhere but inside the car
> for sure. Vacuum
> reservoir is a crane cams reserve tank.
>
> Mark Ward
> 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Frank John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
> <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:05 AM
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum
> Pump & and Vacuum
> CheckValves
>
>
> >I installed an "inrush protector" (I think that's
> what it's called) and am
> >very happy with it. For some reason my system
> leaks down quicker in the
> >cold weather. Not sure why...
> >
> >>From Mark Hanson:
> >
> > <<< GE
> > took
> > over
> > Keystone
> > &
> > changed
> > the
> > part
> > numbers
> > now
> > "GE
> > Thermometrics"
> > like
> > Ecomagineering
> > stuff.
> > Anyway
> > the
> > CL-60
> > is
> > now
> > a
> > KC006L-ND
> > from
> > Digi-Key,
> > 10
> > ohms
> > cold,
> > .18
> > ohms
> > hot
> > 5
> > amps
> > continuous.
> > Also
> > don't
> > forget
> > to
> > put
> > a
> > diode
> > across
> > the
> > coil
> > too.
> > I
> > used
> > a
> > CL-60
> > on
> > my
> > vacuum
> > pump
> > on
> > my
> > E-Jeep
> > and
> > it
> > ran
> > much
> > qieter.
> > The
> > Digi-Key
> > page
> > shows
> > a
> > variety
> > of
> > these
> > NTC
> > devices
> > mainly
> > used
> > for
> > inrush
> > on
> > switching
> > supplies
> > and
> > electronic
> > loads
> > with
> > large
> > caps
> > on
> > the
> > front
> > end. >>>
> >
> > and Lee Hart:
> >
> >>>
> > "Also
> > don't
> > forget
> > to
> > put
> > a
> > diode
> > across
> > the
> > coil
> > too."
> >
> > <<< The
> > motor's
> > coil
> > (i.e.
> > across
> > the
> > motor).
> > Cathode
> > (banded
> > end)
> > to
> > positive,
> > anode
> > (arrow)
> > to
> > negative.
> > The
> > diode
> > prevents
> > the
> > switch
> > that
> > turns
> > the
> > motor
> > off
> > from
> > being
> > hit
> > with
> > huge
> > voltage
> > spikes
> > when
> > it
> > turns
> > off. >>>
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----
> > From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:43:08 AM
> > Subject: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump
> & and Vacuum Check
> > Valves
> >
> >
> > I
> > know
> > this
> > has
> > been
>
=== message truncated ===
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:31:36 -0500
From: "EVDL Administrator" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV For Wind Farm Tour
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On 12 Feb 2008 at 1:13, Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> Considering the cost of building the vehicle for the very few trips it
> will ever see (maybe 40 trips, 160 miles, before the batteries die of old age)
> this doesn't seem like an appropriate use of EV technology.
There are other factors operating here. That said, how about something like
this?
http://www.brusa.biz/news/news.php?l_sel=2&idm=4&idk=9
I know, I know, it's a little more work to set up. ;-)
David Roden - Akron, Ohio, USA
EVDL Administrator
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
EVDL Information: http://www.evdl.org/help/
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
Note: mail sent to "evpost" or "etpost" addresses will not
reach me. To send a private message, please obtain my
email address from the webpage http://www.evdl.org/help/ .
= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 09:27:32 -0800
From: Frank Schmitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
CheckValves
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
I've got a spare that I picked out of a car back in the 90s. They work
pretty well, but aren't very quiet.
Thanks,
-Frank
On Feb 12, 2008, at 8:28, M. Barkley wrote:
> Has anyone used the vacuum pump from the following
> model cars?:
>
> 82 Skyhawk-J
> 82-85 Skylark-x
> 82 Cimmaron
> 84-86 Celebrity-A
> 82 Caprice-B
> 82 Cavalier-J
> 82-85 Citation-X
> 86 Cierra-A
> 82 Firenza-J
> 82-84 Omega-X
> 85-86 6000
> 82 J2000
> 82-84 Phoenix-X
>
> I believe the GM partnumber is: 22034995
>
> I'm wondering if they are quiet, and maybe can be had
> from salvage yard stock, if of course all those older
> cars haven't already been crushed.
>
>
>
>
> --- Mark Ward <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> It was best in my conversion to mount it in a box
>> along with the switch
>> (square D). The box I used is galvanized metal and
>> is insulated with
>> fiberglass. The thomas pump has a "muffler" of
>> sorts that reduces the sound
>> but the box is really effective. You can barely
>> hear the pump and with the
>> hood shut and the car moving along you certainly
>> don't. I even added a
>> vacuum gauge and an emergency force-run switch in
>> the unlikely event my
>> automatic one should fail. Here is a link to mine:
>>
>>
> http://bp3.blogger.com/_xouyKpqe9U4/RnP8CH8WfII/AAAAAAAAADM/48c3-MJf0As/s320/vacuum.jpg
>>
>> I suppose you could mount this somewhere else. It
>> worked out good for mine
>> over the motor. About anywhere but inside the car
>> for sure. Vacuum
>> reservoir is a crane cams reserve tank.
>>
>> Mark Ward
>> 95 Saab 900SE "Saabrina"
>> www.saabrina.blogspot.com
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Frank John" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List"
>> <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:05 AM
>> Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum
>> Pump & and Vacuum
>> CheckValves
>>
>>
>>> I installed an "inrush protector" (I think that's
>> what it's called) and am
>>> very happy with it. For some reason my system
>> leaks down quicker in the
>>> cold weather. Not sure why...
>>>
>>>> From Mark Hanson:
>>>
>>> <<< GE
>>> took
>>> over
>>> Keystone
>>> &
>>> changed
>>> the
>>> part
>>> numbers
>>> now
>>> "GE
>>> Thermometrics"
>>> like
>>> Ecomagineering
>>> stuff.
>>> Anyway
>>> the
>>> CL-60
>>> is
>>> now
>>> a
>>> KC006L-ND
>>> from
>>> Digi-Key,
>>> 10
>>> ohms
>>> cold,
>>> .18
>>> ohms
>>> hot
>>> 5
>>> amps
>>> continuous.
>>> Also
>>> don't
>>> forget
>>> to
>>> put
>>> a
>>> diode
>>> across
>>> the
>>> coil
>>> too.
>>> I
>>> used
>>> a
>>> CL-60
>>> on
>>> my
>>> vacuum
>>> pump
>>> on
>>> my
>>> E-Jeep
>>> and
>>> it
>>> ran
>>> much
>>> qieter.
>>> The
>>> Digi-Key
>>> page
>>> shows
>>> a
>>> variety
>>> of
>>> these
>>> NTC
>>> devices
>>> mainly
>>> used
>>> for
>>> inrush
>>> on
>>> switching
>>> supplies
>>> and
>>> electronic
>>> loads
>>> with
>>> large
>>> caps
>>> on
>>> the
>>> front
>>> end. >>>
>>>
>>> and Lee Hart:
>>>
>>>>>
>>> "Also
>>> don't
>>> forget
>>> to
>>> put
>>> a
>>> diode
>>> across
>>> the
>>> coil
>>> too."
>>>
>>> <<< The
>>> motor's
>>> coil
>>> (i.e.
>>> across
>>> the
>>> motor).
>>> Cathode
>>> (banded
>>> end)
>>> to
>>> positive,
>>> anode
>>> (arrow)
>>> to
>>> negative.
>>> The
>>> diode
>>> prevents
>>> the
>>> switch
>>> that
>>> turns
>>> the
>>> motor
>>> off
>>> from
>>> being
>>> hit
>>> with
>>> huge
>>> voltage
>>> spikes
>>> when
>>> it
>>> turns
>>> off. >>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message ----
>>> From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
>>> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:43:08 AM
>>> Subject: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump
>> & and Vacuum Check
>>> Valves
>>>
>>>
>>> I
>>> know
>>> this
>>> has
>>> been
>>
> === message truncated ===
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:39:35 -0300
From: "Eduardo K." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] extending battery life
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
You just invented the oil change for EVs :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Doug Weathers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, 12 February 2008 12:36 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] extending battery life
On Feb 11, 2008, at 7:48 PM, autoquant wrote:
>
>
> Thanks everyone for the input.
>
> The original message was about extending the batteries lifespan by
> trying to
> reduce deposits through filtration, reducing the chance of overheating
> and
> easy maintenance of the fluid.
>
> I didn't think it would add much to the charge capacity.
How about this idea: a variable amperage battery! Pump electrolyte out
of the cell and uncover the plates to drop the amps produced. Imagine
the safety benefits!
I'm kidding, it's a stupid idea. Yours is much better.
>
> Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Maybe we don't need a continuously operating onboard filter system.
Imagine a machine with an electrolyte pump, a filter, and a wand with
an inlet at the bottom and an outlet at the top. Stick the wand down
into the battery cell till it reaches the bottom, then turn on the
pump, which stirs up the cell and raises a cloud of silt, which gets
trapped by the filter. Put a light on the end of the wand and use it
to guide the wand to the heaps of silt on the bottom of the cell, like
vacuuming out a crevice in your couch.
I'd also add something to measure specific gravity, and the ability to
sense fluid levels and add distilled water if needed.
So you'd drop in the wand and turn it on, and you'd find out the cell's
SoC, clean out the sediment, and top up the water in one operation.
1-2 minutes per cell, maybe? It would take a while to do the pack.
>
> Joe
> --
--
Doug Weathers
Las Cruces, NM, USA
http://www.gdunge.com/
_______________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 10:11:41 -0800
From: "Alan Brinkman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] RE : spark EV
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Steven,
Back in September of 2007 I saw a listing on E-bay for some motors and
electronics on E-bay, from a company that "appeared" to be putting
together electric cars, and the location was Yuma, Arizona. Just 60
miles from me, and I was interested to see the motors, etc., and the
vehicles. That was six months ago. I have never been shown any motors
or electric vehicles. I have just been added to the Spark-EV mailing
list. What a snow job they are doing! From your E-mail it looks like
their operations have moved to Pennsylvania? I hope no one puts down a
deposit that they later lose.
Reporting back on what I saw in Yuma, Arizona from the E-bay listing of
motors and controllers......NOTHING !!
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Steven **
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 7:39 AM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] RE : spark EV
http://spark-ev.com/index.php?topic=12.msg148#msg148
Spark-EV is offering a 1-week test drive of the new Zotye to the
communities choice. Anyone here live in/near Pennsylvania? Looks
like their corporate office is in Easton and their warehouse is in
Philladelphia.
It'd be awesome if one of the regulars on this list could report back
on the Zotye.
-Steven
On Feb 7, 2008 7:39 AM, wayne alexander <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I agree with david, some how I smell a rat. If they can get 100 miles
on lead acid, I dont believe that at all, then there useing LiOn batts,
and to get that range they would have to be selling the car for over
40,000$ or more. Even wonder why so many scams start with anything
needed or wanted, but just really never see it, its just 3 inches out
of reach & hasnt been put in the publics hands yet????
> I have to be convinced, I have to kick the tires feel the fenders,
if Its real, and for 20K$, I'll buy one, maybe 2 BUT, in my dealing with
stuff, the only thing the ChiComs ever made worth a damn was the AK47,
every thing else was trash.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
_______________________________________________
For subscription options, see
http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 13:55:22 -0500
From: Richard Acuti <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] GM should sell Volt sans batteries
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Dan F. asked where I got my information that Toyota sells the Prius at a small
"per unit" loss. I got it from the designer himself:
http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601109&sid=aoCSD7m5zHhA&refer=home
Warning: the article is largely about Reinert's personal view on peak oil and
the role EV's, the Prius and Toyota might play. I simply posted the link
because I was asked about my source.
Rich A.Marylandhttp://www.austinev.org/evalbum/371.html
_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts!?Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 13:03:00 -0600
From: "Steven **" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] RE : spark EV
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Was the company in Arizona actually Spark-EV?
To placate your fears, they aren't accepting deposits on the vehicles.
They are pay-on-delivery. So, they're not scheming money that way.
So, no one on this list lives near NW Pennsylvania?
-Steven
On Feb 12, 2008 12:11 PM, Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Steven,
>
> Back in September of 2007 I saw a listing on E-bay for some motors and
> electronics on E-bay, from a company that "appeared" to be putting
> together electric cars, and the location was Yuma, Arizona. Just 60
> miles from me, and I was interested to see the motors, etc., and the
> vehicles. That was six months ago. I have never been shown any motors
> or electric vehicles. I have just been added to the Spark-EV mailing
> list. What a snow job they are doing! From your E-mail it looks like
> their operations have moved to Pennsylvania? I hope no one puts down a
> deposit that they later lose.
>
> Reporting back on what I saw in Yuma, Arizona from the E-bay listing of
> motors and controllers......NOTHING !!
>
> Alan
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 13:15:20 -0600
From: Lee Hart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] EV For Wind Farm Tour
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Peter VanDerWal wrote:
> Unless my math is wrong, that works out to an average slope of 14%.
> You might be able to make the trip up (and coast or regen back down),
> but you probably won't be able to go faster than 10-15 mph. If you
> use Lead-Acid batteries and only make one trip every month or so
> (like you indicated) then the batteries will perpetually be in an
> "un-exercised" state which will reduce their available capacity.
>
> Considering the cost of building the vehicle for the very few trips
> it will ever see (maybe 40 trips, 160 miles, before the batteries die
> of old age) this doesn't seem like an appropriate use of EV
> technology.
It sounds a lot like a job for UPS batteries. They spend almost all
their life on float, and are only occasionally asked to deliver very
high currents for 10-15 minutes. If you get the right batteries, and a
smart enough charger not to blindly cook them to an early death, they
should work out fine.
For example, we bought a bunch of used Hawker SBS60 AGM batteries for
our BEST class about 10 years ago. They are built for UPS use. They were
already 4 years old when we got them, and we used them for 6 more years
before misuse and attrition took their toll.
Perhaps the vehicle could be built as a big rolling UPS, able to provide
power for whatever emergency use was necessary.
--
Ring the bells that still can ring
Forget the perfect offering
There is a crack in everything
That's how the light gets in -- Leonard Cohen
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart_at_earthlink.net
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:16:53 -0500
From: Chuck Homic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] RE : spark EV
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I live in Albany, NY (4 hours from Easton, PA) which would be hell of a
hike for a wild goose chase. However, I'll be driving to JFK airport
later in the month to drop someone off, so it would at least be
conceivable I could spend some time chasing wild goose. :) I'd be your
official investigative journalist (photos and video) if someone wants to
chip in for gas and hotel. Otherwise, I'd be not really interested.
(That is, not interested in spending 100 bucks and a day of my life
investigating a car, which may not exist, that I'm only marginally
interested in...)
Steven ** wrote:
> Was the company in Arizona actually Spark-EV?
>
> To placate your fears, they aren't accepting deposits on the vehicles.
> They are pay-on-delivery. So, they're not scheming money that way.
>
> So, no one on this list lives near NW Pennsylvania?
>
> -Steven
>
> On Feb 12, 2008 12:11 PM, Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Steven,
>>
>> Back in September of 2007 I saw a listing on E-bay for some motors and
>> electronics on E-bay, from a company that "appeared" to be putting
>> together electric cars, and the location was Yuma, Arizona. Just 60
>> miles from me, and I was interested to see the motors, etc., and the
>> vehicles. That was six months ago. I have never been shown any motors
>> or electric vehicles. I have just been added to the Spark-EV mailing
>> list. What a snow job they are doing! From your E-mail it looks like
>> their operations have moved to Pennsylvania? I hope no one puts down a
>> deposit that they later lose.
>>
>> Reporting back on what I saw in Yuma, Arizona from the E-bay listing of
>> motors and controllers......NOTHING !!
>>
>> Alan
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 14:29:18 -0500
From: Ben <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] RE : spark EV
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
I thought I read in an earlier email that they were in NE PA. NW PA is
a bit closer for me (In W Maryland) - have a more exact location?
I'm not any more hopeful than most people here, but if the distance
was reasonable I'm willing to go give them a chance to show me
something.
Ben
On Feb 12, 2008 2:03 PM, Steven ** <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Was the company in Arizona actually Spark-EV?
>
> To placate your fears, they aren't accepting deposits on the vehicles.
> They are pay-on-delivery. So, they're not scheming money that way.
>
> So, no one on this list lives near NW Pennsylvania?
>
> -Steven
>
> On Feb 12, 2008 12:11 PM, Alan Brinkman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Steven,
> >
> > Back in September of 2007 I saw a listing on E-bay for some motors and
> > electronics on E-bay, from a company that "appeared" to be putting
> > together electric cars, and the location was Yuma, Arizona. Just 60
> > miles from me, and I was interested to see the motors, etc., and the
> > vehicles. That was six months ago. I have never been shown any motors
> > or electric vehicles. I have just been added to the Spark-EV mailing
> > list. What a snow job they are doing! From your E-mail it looks like
> > their operations have moved to Pennsylvania? I hope no one puts down a
> > deposit that they later lose.
> >
> > Reporting back on what I saw in Yuma, Arizona from the E-bay listing of
> > motors and controllers......NOTHING !!
> >
> > Alan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:30:54 -0800 (PST)
From: fsabolich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] looking for charger
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
My TS-LFP90AHA cells have arrived. I am in the process of designing the BMS
and am looking for a charger. My first test vehicle will use only 20 cells.
The later vehicle is planned to use 100 cells. Charging time is not
critical - up to 24 hours for a full charge is OK.
The charger must interface to the BMS - the BMS must be able to control the
current and stop charging (zero current). The preferred method of
communication is CANbus but RS232 would be acceptable.
So far I have looked at the Brusa NLG503-light. It seems to satisfy my
requirements. Output current of 8A should charge the cells (20 of them) in
about 10 hours. For the 100 cell pack we have 1600W / about 400V = 4A
charge current. So that should charge the 100 cell pack in about 20 hours.
The manual indicates in "mode C" charge can be controlled by CANbus. So
this charger seems to be OK for my needs.
Are there any comments on this charger or BRUSA chargers in general? Does
anybody have a suggestion for another charger?
Thank you,
Fran
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/looking-for-charger-tp15440997p15440997.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 12:29:44 -0700
From: Bill Dube <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
Check Valves
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
There are two tricks you need to use to quiet down a vacuum pump.
1) "Tampoline" mount. You mount the pump to the middle of a square
sheet of rubber (like the sidewall of a radial tire.) You then mount
the corners of the rubber sheet to the car frame with stand-offs.
Thus, the vibration of the pump does not transmit to the body of the
car. The pump flops around a bit, so leave loops in the wire and hoses.
2) "Pantyhose" muffler. Attach a 2 ft section of 5/8" rubber heater
hose to the outlet port of the pump. Straighten out a coat hanger and
then make a series of tight loops/kinks in it, about 3 inches apart.
Tie the a leg of the pantyhose between each of these loops. Stuff the
coat hanger with the panty hose down the heater hose. Trim off excess
coat hanger.
You now have an ultra-quiet vacuum pump.
Bill Dube'
l
At 09:16 AM 2/12/2008, you wrote:
>Hello Dave,
>
>Initially when a vacuum pump starts up, the internal check valve is clicking
>open and close until there is enough vacuum to hold it close.
>
>As the vacuum reaches above 18 in.hg in some pumps, you cannot hear it any
>longer. The electric driven diaphragm type which is the cheapest type, but
>the diaphragm it self makes a popping noise.
>
>The independent auto parts store down the street from me, which also do
>complete overhaul work of a vehicle, just like you see on the TV program
>OVERHAUL, gave me a Ford belt driven vacuum pump, which is a diaphragm type.
>One side of the diaphragm enclosure is vented to the outside air, so the
>diaphragm can reset it self which each pump, otherwise the diaphragm will
>remain collapse and will not reset it self.
>
>I tested this pump on the bench without any check values and canister. This
>pump would make a air bleeding sound, cause by the diaphragm pushing the air
>in and out through very fine holes drill in the diaphragm cover. As the
>vacuum in crease from 0 to 10 in.hg. it would also make a clicking noise
>cause by the internal check valve.
>
> >From 10 to 15 in.hg. the check value held more close and the clicking noise
>lessen and when it got to 18 in.hg. I could not hardly hear it and at 20
>in.hg., did not hear it, because the electric motor that I was using to
>drive it, was loader.
>
>Being that this was a old vacuum pump they took off a diesel pickup, I
>wanted a new one, so I got a new belt driven GMC one that is use on one of
>the diesel pickups. This pump is identical to the Ford pump, which is made
>by the same company.
>
>When installing this type of pump, you must install a vacuum reserve
>canister were the vacuum line from the pump is pipe into the canister. I
>use a inline vacuum check valve in this line to the canister which may be in
>addition to the one in the pump.
>
>The output vacuum port on the canister, has a inlet hole for a push in
>vacuum check valve, which is the same type that plugs into your vacuum brake
>booster. I also use this type of check valves to make inline check values
>that you can place anyplace in your vacuum line.
>
>The main vacuum line plugs into this vacuum check value that is plug into
>the canister, goes directly to the brake booster vacuum check valve that is
>plug into the brake vacuum booster.
>
>If you need to tapped off this main vacuum line to run other vacuum assist
>devices, you must install another check value off that main line to another
>small vehicle vacuum canister that would be existing for your vacuum driven
>accessories.
>
>You will note, that I have five vacuum check valves in my vacuum system, one
>in the pump, one between the pump and canister, one after the canister, one
>at the brake vacuum booster, and one tapped off on the main vacuum line
>between the canister and brake vacuum booster.
>
>If I did not have these canister and check values, the vacuum would drop
>right from 22 to 10 in.hg. and the clicking noise would come back again.
>
>My GMC vacuum pump when starting up and is driven off the main motor and
>while backing out of the garage, I get a initial clicking noise from the
>internal check value inside the pump. As my vacuum comes up to above 15
>in.hg. I cannot hear it any more.
>
>Now if you want a vacuum pump that does not make the noise coming from a
>diaphragm pump, use a vane type vacuum pump, it will still make a popping or
>clicking noise at very low initial in.hg. but it also goes away at the
>higher rpm.
>
>This pump is made by Moroso which is design for racing. The 4-vane pump cost
>about $560.00, bracket is about $45.00, and vacuum canisters are about
>$35.00 to $70.00.
>
>Source of supply for the pumps and accessories is jegs.com
>
>My source of supply for the GMC or Ford vacuum pump is the auto dealer. The
>vacuum check values are from a auto parts store that is size for your type
>of brake vacuum booster in.hg.
>
>If you want a motor to drive this pump instead using the main motor, I use a
>130 vdc thread mill motor that I run at 29 volts, because at 130 vdc the rpm
>is too much, all you need is about 1500 rpm. If you run off the main motor
>with a belt, use a pulley on the vacuum pump twice as big that is on the
>main motor to keep the rpm down.
>
>Roland
>
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
>Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:43 AM
>Subject: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum Check Valves
>
>
> > I know this has been dealt with before but I cannot find a good solution
> > to
> > my noisy vacuum pump. A muffler has made it a bit quieter but it still is
> > annoying to have a silent electric car with a brgggggggggggggggg sound
> > from
> > under the bonnet. (Which in my case is constant so I have to find out
> > where the
> > leak is.) Has anyone really had success with that surge protector in
> > series
> > with the power lead?
> >
> > Also when the vacuum pump shuts off what are you guys using to prevent the
> > pump itself from leaking the vacuum? I have an old vacuum check valve in
> > series with the vacuum port but it does not seem to seal very well.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> > Dave Delman
> > 1981 Electric DeLorean Project
> > electricdelorean.com
> >
> >
> >
> > **************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
> > Awards. Go to AOL Music.
> > (http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
> > _______________________________________________
> > For subscription options, see
> > http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
>_______________________________________________
>For subscription options, see
>http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 10:52:19 -0800
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Electric Dragin' 1/8 mile times have been posted.
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
John Wayland wrote:
> 'Portion' is the operative word here. It was not billed as a
> separate EVent from any ICE racing that preceded it that day.
Well, if the electric drags were not billed as an event, or as part of the
larger all-electric APS electrics weekend long event, then I'd agree they lose
on a technicality despite being all-electric and having international
participation.
> The nighttime 1/4 mile drag racing for the EVs was tagged
> onto gas car racing and it was not a solitary EVent unto
> itself. As part of the day-long APS races, the electric stuff
> (road racing, ride & drives, show & shines, drag racing,
> etc.) was interrupted by gas car drag racing, so gas car
> racing was clearly part of the activity that day at the
> track. APS personnel made announcements over the PA system
> during the day, that anyone who wanted to, could come back to
> the track later that night, as they were running regular gas
> car drag racing and that electric cars would be 'allowed' to
> race down the 1/4 mile track.
Jeez, John; you're undermining your own argument here ;^>
We already agree that the weekend long APS electrics were an all-electric
event, and your description does more to reinforce the impression that the gas
drag races were *not* part of the same all-electric event as the all-electric
drag racing way, but rather were a separate *smaller* event that briefly
interrupted the weekend-long all-electric APS event. The fact that the APS
personnel made a point of announcing ahead of time that people could come back
to watch the electrics drag race *after* the gas cars had finished indeed makes
it clear that the gas racing was *not* part of the same APS event as the
all-electric drags were.
> Being 'allowed' to race on a
> 1/4 mile drag track on an evening dominated by gas cars, is
> not by any stretch an all electric drag race
Leaving the emotional/political stuff aside, *no* gas cars participated during
the evening drag racing, and by definition that is all that is required to make
a drag race "all electric".
> - anymore than
> saying the handful of Dodge Vipers we 'allowed' to race at
> our late 90's era electric drag races at Woodburn, were 'gas
> car racing events'.
Of course, but certainly I think we agree that the participation of ICE
vehicles in the Woodburn events (other than '97) does preclude them from being
billed as "all-electric".
> I've already addressed what really was 'the first all
> electric drag races'...that would be the '94 Portland street
> drag races, which by the way, were a full 1/4 mile, not 1/8
> mile. They were hokey in that it was not at an NHRA certified
> 1/4 mile drag race track, there was no timing tree, no
> digital reader boards, no burnout pits...none of this.
> Instead, we had measured off a 1/4 mile on Portland's 'Front Street'
> (subsequently name-changed by Portland's societal engineers to Nato
> Parkway) marked with heavy chalk, cones, and flag wavers, and
> our timing devices were hand-held stop watches!
I've got no problem with this being declared the first all-electric drag race;
there can't be anything more all-electric than a race with only Rod Wilde and
you participating!
But, this is why I asked what the criteria are that must be satisfied for an
event to earn this place in history. The first all-electric drag race at a
1/4mi NHRA track seems to be the '96 APS Electrics races, the first
all-electric drag race may indeed be the '94 Portland street showdown. The
first all-electric NEDRA event would be the '97 Woodburn race, etc. It is
possible to define the criteria such that any event we choose can be the
"first" of its kind.
Of course, none of these events is unimportant; all are important milestones in
any complete history of electric motorsports. I haven't checked the NEDRA site
in a while, so don't remember if this might already exist, but if not, may I
suggest that a great addition might be a 'timeline' noting *all* of the
important milestones in the EV drag racing history? Obviously, there are
important EV drag racing milestones predating even the '94 showdown, as there
were electric racing pioneers as early as the '60s and 70's (perhaps much
earlier too, as we know there were electric vehicles racing even at the turn of
the century and while the matches that come to mind were speed-based, I would
be surprised if there weren't any of the drag racing sort evne if drag racing
had not yet been recognised as an official sport).
Cheers,
Roger.
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 11:58:42 -0800
From: Roger Stockton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Searching for a quiet Vacuum Pump & and Vacuum
CheckValves
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
M. Barkley wrote:
> Has anyone used the vacuum pump from the following model cars?:
>
> 82 Skyhawk-J
> 82-85 Skylark-x
> 82 Cimmaron
> 84-86 Celebrity-A
> 82 Caprice-B
> 82 Cavalier-J
> 82-85 Citation-X
> 86 Cierra-A
> 82 Firenza-J
> 82-84 Omega-X
> 85-86 6000
> 82 J2000
> 82-84 Phoenix-X
>
> I believe the GM partnumber is: 22034995
>
> I'm wondering if they are quiet, and maybe can be had from
> salvage yard stock, if of course all those older cars haven't
> already been crushed.
I've got one, which I got from an '80's vintage GM at a wrecker's, though I
didn't pay any attention to what model the car was at the time.
FWIW, if/when you go to the wrecking yard to pull one, it is located under the
driver's side wheelwell, beneath the battery tray, IIRC. Follow the vacuum
hose from the brake booster if in doubt ;^>
No, they are not particularly quiet. If you remove it from the donor vehicle
yourself, you'll notice that the pump has a bracket attached that has rubber
isolation grommets in it, and the pump is designed to be mounted so it hangs
from this bracket. I would suggest mounting it the same way in your conversion
so the isolation features of the bracket can work their best. (I mounted mine
this way, to the tranny bellhousing so that it is isolated by both its own
mounts and the engine/tranny mounts, and is mounted to something relatively
massive that will not 'oil can' and amplify any vibrations like a fenter or
firewall mounting location might.)
It will benefit greatly from a muffler, as has been discussed before on the
list (e.g. a couple feet of hose with the end plugged and some small holes or
slits near the plugged end fro the pump to exhaust air through).
I haven't tried the inrush limiter idea on mine, but can't really see how it
can help the noise of the pump while running even though it may soften the
initial startup.
In my case, I have the pump installed but haven't bothered plugging it in since
I find the brake feel to be fine in my car without the vacuum assist and so
would rather enjoy the silence.
Another tip for helping silence the pump is to mount it on a rubber
'trampoline', which can help prevent transmission of vibration to the vehicle
structure. You can mount it in an enclosure, but you still have to provide a
vent for the air to exhaust (so the pump can pump), and almost all of the noise
the pump makes comes out the exhaust port.
It is a reciprocating diaphragm type pump, and I understand the diaphragm is
non-replacable, so bear that in mind. Some years ago I read on the list that
some (newer than mid '80s) Volvo models have electric vacuum pumps, and they
might be a better source since the part may still be available new at a parts
counter (I understand the GM part is not).
Cheers,
Roger.
------------------------------
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EV@lists.sjsu.edu
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End of EV Digest, Vol 7, Issue 23
*********************************
