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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Motor wish list, A ramble into answering. (fsabolich)
2. Re: New member - Urba-Electric (MIKE WILLMON)
3. VW Flywheel (gottdi)
4. Re: New member - Urba-Electric (MIKE WILLMON)
5. Re: Seeking installation guidance VICOR DC-DC for ForkenSwift
(dave cover)
6. Re: Chassis ground fault (dave cover)
7. Re: Plasma Boy talking smack about 2SSIC (Mike Willmon)
8. conversion heart failure (richarddthomas)
9. Re: VW Flywheel (Kenneth G. Gordon)
10. Re: VW Flywheel ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
11. Re: Seeking installation guidance VICOR DC-DC for ForkenSwift
(SteveS)
12. Heating Batteries with AC Current (Mike Chancey)
13. Bring the Mitsubishi iMiev to the USA - ASAP (Steven Lough)
14. Urba-Electric. (Kenneth G. Gordon)
15. Re: VW Flywheel (Kenneth G. Gordon)
16. Re: conversion heart failure (Roland Wiench)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 23:01:19 -0800 (PST)
From: fsabolich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Motor wish list, A ramble into answering.
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> I think you would have done better to have the fields
> rewound to make the motors more suitable for
> separately excited control.
Yes, that is technically a much better solution. The field excitation
controller is bigger and makes more heat than it would be if I had rewound
the fields. There were a number of factors that made me leave the motors as
they were. They were also in a hurry to get the forklift operational. I
had ordered enough parts to make all the needed controllers. Plus this way
they can drop in a stock replacement motor if they need to.
> Well, first off, they are available, and controllers
> as well. They basically offer more torque per amp
> than anything else available (within reasonable cost).
This is really what puzzles me, I don't see why Sep-ex is that much more
expensive. As for torque, you can induce the same magnetic field with let's
say 10A through 100 turns as 100A through 10 turns. So I don't see why
series field motors are still popular. I can see why in the old days they
would be. For vehicles they kind of have a built in CVT in the form of
automatic field weakening as you pick up speed and current drops. But with
today's electronics you can just do so much more with separate field
excitation. I suppose it is tradition and availability of motors that keeps
them popular.
> So you are saying to go brushless, meaning AC? I
> agree. But then there are availability and cost
> issues for AC systems.
Well, when you go AC you need many more power transistors because you do
commutation with them. So AC drives are justifiably more expensive. But
Sep-ex doesn't have to be considerably more expensive at all (field
controllers are cheap).
> I have done series and sep-ex DC drives and ACIM
> drives. They all can be made to work well. Which is
> better? Depends on the application and budget. I
> like them all, but favor the ACIM.
Any thoughts on ACIM versus sync permanent magnet?
Fran
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/Motor-wish-list-tp12372518p15515021.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:47:39 -0900
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] New member - Urba-Electric
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Ken,
Welcome aboard. There's nothing here but lots of information :-) And yes Lee
Hart is still active here, last post was 8am this morning. Thats a pretty
light looking chassis on that Urba-Electric. No doubt you could do some
amazing things today compared to the 48V on the G23 starter generator. Put a
stock Pinto/MustangII front end and a Ford 8" or 9" rear end on that simple
frame and you could get decent handling as well. Have you looked at the
Tri-Magnum plans too? I wonder if you could do a decent electric version of
that one? Anyway welcome to the list. I have my own project going right now
and was just taking a break.
73
Mike
AL1D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, February 15, 2008 8:55 pm
Subject: [EVDL] New member - Urba-Electric
To: Electric Vehicle Forum <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Hello:
>
> I am a new member who just joined today. I have been
> interested in electric (and steam) vehicles for many years,
> having bought a set of plans for the Mechanix
> Illustrated/Robert Q. Riley "Urba-Electric" many years ago.
>
> Due to family pressures, I was never able to even start on
> the construction of the Urba-Electric, but since I am close to
> retirement, I hope to have enough time to do that soon.
>
> A little background: I have worked in the
> electronics/electrical fields for around 50 years, and am
> currently still employed at the University of Idaho as the
> Electronic Instrument Specialist, Sr. for the College of
> Science there.
>
> I have also been an amateur radio operator since 1956,
> holding the call W7EKB, and am still very active on the air.
>
> I will have much to learn about EV, and I hope to gain some
> of the knowledge I lack on this forum.
>
> I have read a couple of posts concerning the Urba-Electric
> in the archives, and will do some more searching there as
> soon as possible. Most of the posts I have found so far on
> the Urba-Electric appear to have been answered by a Mr.
> Hart, who, I hope, is still active here.
>
> Well, enough for now. Thank you.
>
> Kenneth G. Gordon
> Moscow, Idaho
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 00:03:45 -0800 (PST)
From: gottdi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] VW Flywheel
To: ev@lists.sjsu.edu
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Well I finally got my VW Flywheels today. I ordered two of them because the
price was right and he had two. These are lightened flywheels without the
ring gear and also drilled for 8 dowels instead of the stock 4. These
lightened flywheels are 11 1/2 pounds with out the ring gear. Nice. Still in
the original box and still with the cosmoline on the flywheel. These are
nice new flywheels. I got two because I plan on converting another VW. Just
wanted to make sure I got a good light one since I will be running the
flywheel and clutch. I am getting more info from Kelly Controller about our
motor set up and kelly has one ready for me. I am going to order it
tomorrow. It will be 72 volt and 600 amp with regen.
: )
--
View this message in context:
http://www.nabble.com/VW-Flywheel-tp15515119p15515119.html
Sent from the Electric Vehicle Discussion List mailing list archive at
Nabble.com.
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:07:03 -0900
From: MIKE WILLMON <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] New member - Urba-Electric
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Electric Vehicle Discussion List
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Ken,
Welcome aboard. There's nothing here but lots of information :-) And yes Lee
Hart is still active here, last post was 8am this morning. Thats a pretty
light looking chassis on that Urba-Electric. No doubt you could do some
amazing things today compared to the 48V on the G23 starter generator. Put a
stock Pinto/MustangII front end and a Ford 8" or 9" rear end on that simple
frame and you could get decent handling as well. Have you looked at the
Tri-Magnum plans too? I wonder if you could do a decent electric version of
that one? Anyway welcome to the list. I have my own project going right now
and was just taking a break.
73
Mike
AL1D
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Friday, February 15, 2008 8:55 pm
Subject: [EVDL] New member - Urba-Electric
To: Electric Vehicle Forum <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
> Hello:
>
> I am a new member who just joined today. I have been
> interested in electric (and steam) vehicles for many years,
> having bought a set of plans for the Mechanix
> Illustrated/Robert Q. Riley "Urba-Electric" many years ago.
>
> Due to family pressures, I was never able to even start on
> the construction of the Urba-Electric, but since I am close to
> retirement, I hope to have enough time to do that soon.
>
> A little background: I have worked in the
> electronics/electrical fields for around 50 years, and am
> currently still employed at the University of Idaho as the
> Electronic Instrument Specialist, Sr. for the College of
> Science there.
>
> I have also been an amateur radio operator since 1956,
> holding the call W7EKB, and am still very active on the air.
>
> I will have much to learn about EV, and I hope to gain some
> of the knowledge I lack on this forum.
>
> I have read a couple of posts concerning the Urba-Electric
> in the archives, and will do some more searching there as
> soon as possible. Most of the posts I have found so far on
> the Urba-Electric appear to have been answered by a Mr.
> Hart, who, I hope, is still active here.
>
> Well, enough for now. Thank you.
>
> Kenneth G. Gordon
> Moscow, Idaho
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
>
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 10:53:45 -0500
From: "dave cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking installation guidance VICOR DC-DC for
ForkenSwift
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Feb 15, 2008 9:15 PM, Darin at- forkenswift.com
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> And I was wondering if anyone could hold my hand and help me figure out how
> to set it up so I don't let 20 bucks worth of smoke out.
>
Darin
I'm using a few of these for different purposes, so far with good
reults. One is providng isolated 12v for my eMeter, another is
provding 5v for some other digital volt meters.
The link Travis sent has most of what you need. Trimming them up or
down is real straigtforward. I've also set some up a pair like figure
8-3 to boost output. I didn't have a seperate boost unit as the slave,
but I read somewhere that driver units will work too. I stumbled
across some heat sinks that mount right to the back and should help
when you're using them near their limits. Keep your eyes open for them
in eBay.
Good luck, have fun.
Dave Cover
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 11:02:28 -0500
From: "dave cover" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Chassis ground fault
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID:
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
On Feb 15, 2008 9:52 PM, storm connors <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It still seems bizarre that when
> measuring the voltage from each battery junction to the chassis on a
> 156.5v pack it goes 144.4, 135.8,127.2, 118.4, 109.7, 101.1, 92.3 etc.
> (dropping by the battery's 8.6v) until I get to 5.3 then -3.4, -12.2
> at the positive end.
>
Any chance you were attaching some shielding to the bottom of the
battery boxes with long screws? ;^)
Dave Cover, your almost electric neighbor
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 02:20:34 -0900
From: Mike Willmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Plasma Boy talking smack about 2SSIC
To: "'Electric Vehicle Discussion List'" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Yeah Damon, John's at home now feverishly zapping lithium cells together.
He probably has let his hair grow out long, is drinking Jolt cola and
staying up until 3 am....two thousand one hundred and twenty
three.....bzzzt.....two thousand one hundred and twenty
four...bzzzzztttzzzt.....oops.... two thousand one hundred and twenty
three....
Jim's probably trying to figure out how to just get the motors to breed so
he doesn't have to build them anymore...a little genetic modification could
make all offspring Siamese twins, or even triplets...
Michael is trying to get his awesome car all dialed in and these guys are
home dreaming up the next big thing in EV racing since series/parallel
switching or Siamese motors, heh heh ;-)
...me I'm just puttering in the garage myself working on the Pinto (letting
my hair grow out too). Michael's Ford (knock off ;-) might be fast but I'm
about to show him how fast a real Ford is, he he. I just picked up my shaft
last week. It turns out the optimum size was 3.5". Now 3.5" might not
sound like much for a shaft but consider that is the diameter :-o Its 60
inches long!! I bet that's the longest shaft anyone has EVer seen on a
Pinto...... well maybe not...you decide (but be careful this is graphic
imagery) http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/DSCF6458.JPG
Shut up Jim, at least it aint crusty, and this one is jointed...just right
for hooking up those sticky rubbers....I mean BF Goodrich g-Force drag
radials....Hey at least the whole car and parts are "Made in America". I'm
wondering what color flag the White Zombie flies....
http://home.gci.net/~saintbernard/Pinto Art Work -home-.jpg
schhmack....
> damon henry wrote:
>
>
.... These race guys are never satisfied with
> what they have. One of your big advantages right now is your lithium
> power pack. Don't expect John to let you keep that advantage long...
>
> damon
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 10:25:37 -0500
From: "richarddthomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] conversion heart failure
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
H folks
I am new to the list this month. I am 95% done and 50% undone converting a 1995
Saturm Station wagon whioch I bought at a junk yard for $500 last July and have
replaced everything: brakes suspension, struts with heavy duty springs,
steering rack, etc. I am using The delux universal kit from Electro Automotive
with an Impulse 9 motor, Curtis controller, Zivan NG3 charger and Curtus DC/DC
converter. I am using 20, 6 volt US Battery 2200's with 2 packs totalling 14
battewries in the rear and 6 batteries under the hood in 2, 3-packs. I have had
a lot of fun doing this. I am a disabled/retired Social worker coming out of a
5 yearr recovery from major back surgery, working only 2-3 hours at a time and
have been a backyard mechanic since childhhod. I have very fortunate to sublet
a bay in the fully equipped studio of a retired metal sculptor and expert
welder who is so excited and supportive about this project that he has been
willing to weld just about anything I might fabricate.!
The wiring is done except for connecting the gauges and then I will be ready
to bench test every thing. The "Convert It" book by Michael Brown has been my
bible, including a very detailed instruction sheet for wiring.both low and high
voltage. I have recharged the Aux battery a couple of times to check to see if
all the accessories still work and to work the power windows, all without
incident. Yesterday, finding the Aux battery dead I hooked up the charger,
turned on the ignition key to check if had a good connection and then disaster
struck. Within about a second black smoke began pouring from the wire harness
to the controller and battery pack. I quickly turned off the ignition, ran
around the car, tore apart the harness while my life and work of the last 7
months flashed through my mind just like it was a child having a SIDS episode.
When I could breathe again I discovered that the wire from the positive pole of
the contactor to the Pot box relay had melted most of it!
s insulation and the pot box relay was completely bkackened in!
side.The
wire siamesed to this wire to the key switch relay was completely intact.
I am a complete novice when it comes to wiring and I don't have much of a clue
why this happened except to say that Michael says about this wire that it does
not need to be any heavier than 16 gauge. I could try a 10 Gauge, but now I
have to wait for a new Pot box relay. Any ideas guys? Please be kind.
Richard Thomas
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 09:18:27 -0800
From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Flywheel
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On 16 Feb 2008 at 0:03, gottdi wrote:
> will be 72 volt and 600 amp with regen.
Hmmmm...that's about 40 HP (43.2KW) isn't it? Are EV HP
more powerful than ICE HP? :-)
Seems like it. Kinda like steam HP...or even diesel HP... vs
gas HP.
Ken Gordon
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 09:24:34 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Flywheel
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Electric Vehicle Discussion List
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
You betcha!. And at about 40hp motor power the Ghia should do just
fine. Kinda like diesel torque. Maybe not quite so much with the
shunt motor but still pretty good I am guessing. I do not have it
running quite yet.
Pete : )
On Feb 16, 2008, at 9:18 AM, Kenneth G. Gordon wrote:
> On 16 Feb 2008 at 0:03, gottdi wrote:
>
>> will be 72 volt and 600 amp with regen.
>
> Hmmmm...that's about 40 HP (43.2KW) isn't it? Are EV HP
> more powerful than ICE HP? :-)
>
> Seems like it. Kinda like steam HP...or even diesel HP... vs
> gas HP.
>
> Ken Gordon
>
> _______________________________________________
> For subscription options, see
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 12:21:20 -0500
From: SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Seeking installation guidance VICOR DC-DC for
ForkenSwift
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I've built a lot of power supplies with Vicor modules in the past and
they are good. As mentioned already, read the excellent documentation
that Vicor provides on-line. If you are using it to charge a battery, I
believe they like to see a series diode in the output - you can sense on
the cathode side to keep the voltage correct. I have not done battery
apps (yet) with a Vicor, so check this. You can also set the voltage to
down or up (10% limit on up) using feedback via the sense inputs. H the
recommendations on fusing, bypass caps, etc.
- SteveS
- as yet unnamed (or finished) R75/7 conversion
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 12:31:20 -0600
From: Mike Chancey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Heating Batteries with AC Current
To: EVDL <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
I faintly recall reading somewhere about somebody heating the batteries
in their EV in the winter by running an AC current through them. Did I
hallucinate this, or can someone explain the concept? Issues?
Thanks,
--
Mike Chancey,
'88 Civic EV
Kansas City, Missouri
EV Photo Album at: http://evalbum.com
My Electric Car at: http://www.geocities.com/electric_honda
Mid-America EAA chapter at: http://maeaa.org
Join the EV List at: http://www.evdl.org
In medio stat virtus - Virtue is in the moderate, not the extreme
position. (Horace)
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 10:54:17 -0800
From: Steven Lough <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Bring the Mitsubishi iMiev to the USA - ASAP
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Electric Vehicle Discussion List RCVR
<ev@lists.sjsu.edu>, [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
One of our members has set up a Web petition, kind of like the Wish List
for the VOLT. Here are the Words, and the Web site Address. Sign IN if
you agraee.. and Douplicate this whole message and send it to as many
other groups as you can think of. Thanks
---------
To: Mitsubishi Motors North America, Inc.
We would like to encourage Mitsubishi to bring the i MiEV electric car
to the United States of America. We feel there is sufficient demand for
an affordable electric vehicle and the market is just waiting for a
strong candidate to be sold. The attention that the Tesla Roadster and
GM Volt prototype have received in national media are strong indications
that the American public is ready for this type of vehicle, and
Mitsubishi has shown that it has a good candidate for opening up this
market in America.
To Cast your Vote, go to: http://www.petitiononline.com/iMiEV/petition.html
Sincerely,
--
Steven S. Lough, Pres.
Seattle EV Association
6021 32nd Ave. N.E.
Seattle, WA 98115-7230
Day: 206 850-8535
Eve: 206 524-1351
e-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
web: http://www.seattleeva.org
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 09:58:30 -0800
From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [EVDL] Urba-Electric.
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
I have not seen any versions of the Urba-Electric in the
EVAlbum, and am wondering if anyone here has built, or
knows of anyone who has built, and operated or is operating
one?
I live in a small town in Idaho named Moscow. I live 3
minutes drive, or 15 minutes walk, from work. The nearest
largeish town is over 30 miles away, and we are 75 miles
south of Spokane, Washington.
The supermarket is only 4 blocks from my home, the
hospital, about 6, and total population, when the students
are here is about 25K.
A car such as the Urba-Electric would be absolutely perfect
for our needs here, and I am quite serious about, and very
interested in building one.
It seems to me that since the Urba-Electric was designed, a
LOT of research and development work has been done,
especially in the realm of motors and controllers, although
perhaps less so in the area of batteries.
It seems to me that a possible first step in the updating of
the design of the Urba-Electric would be to change from 6 V
to 12 V batteries and use the appropriate motor and
controller, higher voltage meaning lower current for the
same power.
The next step would be to decide on an efficient
replacement for that nice ElectroMatic transmission which is
no longer available.
I am wondering about some form of transmission similar to
those used in snow-mobiles, but heavier duty. Perhaps
using two belts instead of one.
I never liked the idea of running all the accessories on a
single 12V battery, especially the lights, and see that others
are using a DC-DC converter for those, an idea I had back
in 1970-something.
I also had the idea, back then, of a hybrid for long trips, by
means of a detachable or perhaps trailered engine-
generator set up using a motor-cycle engine coupled to a
generator.
However, I am also a firm believer in the KISS principle...
I was also especially interested to read about the T-Zero.
>From the videos of it racing against some fancy sports-cars,
it appeared to me as though the T-Zero was using some
sort of computer-controlled traction control.
In any case, I think my first step is to learn as much as I can
about the newer motors.
Thanks for the kind reception. I hope that in the future I can
contribute something valuable in return.
Ken Gordon W7EKB
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 10:01:35 -0800
From: "Kenneth G. Gordon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] VW Flywheel
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
On 16 Feb 2008 at 9:24, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> You betcha!. And at about 40hp motor power the Ghia should do just
> fine. Kinda like diesel torque. Maybe not quite so much with the
> shunt motor but still pretty good I am guessing. I do not have it
> running quite yet.
>
> Pete : )
Kewel ! I'd sure love to see it :-)
Ken
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 12:11:02 -0700
From: "Roland Wiench" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [EVDL] conversion heart failure
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Richard,
It may be best to contact Michael and/or the people at Electro Automotive
about this. The best time to contact him is at about 4 to 4.30 PM there
time, which he may come into the office at that time near quitting time.
Normally a pot box does not connect to the positive pole of the contactor.
If the contactor is a main contactor, then you have full battery pack
voltage on the positive which is then switch on to the controller when the
contactor is on.
The contactors coils in some controllers are 12 vdc and normally that
control wire to operated the main contactor comes from the motor controller,
not the pot box.
The pot box wiring should go to the motor controller. A wiring diagram
should show what terminals these wires go to.
It is best to not only fuse your main battery pack, but fuse all your 12
volt control circuits. Normally the 12 volt battery wire going to the motor
controller is fuse at about 5 amps, and another 5 amps fuse between the
ignition switch and controller.
The ignition circuit in a standard vehicle may have the input 12 volt
circuit fuse as high as 25 amps. The wire going to the controller from the
ignition should be fuse at a reduce ampere.
It looks like you go something cross connected in your 12 volt control
circuit.
Start at the battery and trace your 12 volt control circuit all the through,
from battery, to battery fuse, to amp meter if use, to ignition switch, to
controller fuse, to the controller.
The pot box should go to a set of motor controller terminals, and then there
should be a set of terminals from the controller that goes to the 12 volt
coil of the main contactor.
One line of the battery pack voltage with the correct polarity, go's to a
main battery pack fuse or could be a DC circuit breaker. From the breaker
it may go to a amp meter shunt for your battery amp meter and then to the
large input connection on the main contactor. From the main contactor, it
goes to the controller.
The other battery pack line may go directly to the motor controller.
>From the motor controller which normally is mark M1 and M2, goes to the
terminals on the motor.
In installing a complex wiring system, it is best to have a two person team
where one person installs the circuit reading from a wiring diagram and
another person verifying by checking your work reading from the same
diagram.
What I do is make copies of the wiring diagrams and mark the circuits that
are completed with a highliter, so I known where I left off.
Roland
----- Original Message -----
From: "richarddthomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <ev@lists.sjsu.edu>
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2008 8:25 AM
Subject: [EVDL] conversion heart failure
> H folks
> I am new to the list this month. I am 95% done and 50% undone converting a
> 1995 Saturm Station wagon whioch I bought at a junk yard for $500 last
> July and have replaced everything: brakes suspension, struts with heavy
> duty springs, steering rack, etc. I am using The delux universal kit from
> Electro Automotive with an Impulse 9 motor, Curtis controller, Zivan NG3
> charger and Curtus DC/DC converter. I am using 20, 6 volt US Battery
> 2200's with 2 packs totalling 14 battewries in the rear and 6 batteries
> under the hood in 2, 3-packs. I have had a lot of fun doing this. I am a
> disabled/retired Social worker coming out of a 5 yearr recovery from major
> back surgery, working only 2-3 hours at a time and have been a backyard
> mechanic since childhhod. I have very fortunate to sublet a bay in the
> fully equipped studio of a retired metal sculptor and expert welder who is
> so excited and supportive about this project that he has been willing to
> weld just about anything I might fabricate.!
> The wiring is done except for connecting the gauges and then I will be
> ready to bench test every thing. The "Convert It" book by Michael Brown
> has been my bible, including a very detailed instruction sheet for
> wiring.both low and high voltage. I have recharged the Aux battery a
> couple of times to check to see if all the accessories still work and to
> work the power windows, all without incident. Yesterday, finding the Aux
> battery dead I hooked up the charger, turned on the ignition key to check
> if had a good connection and then disaster struck. Within about a second
> black smoke began pouring from the wire harness to the controller and
> battery pack. I quickly turned off the ignition, ran around the car, tore
> apart the harness while my life and work of the last 7 months flashed
> through my mind just like it was a child having a SIDS episode. When I
> could breathe again I discovered that the wire from the positive pole of
> the contactor to the Pot box relay had melted most of it!
> s insulation and the pot box relay was completely bkackened in!
> side.The
> wire siamesed to this wire to the key switch relay was completely intact.
> I am a complete novice when it comes to wiring and I don't have much of a
> clue why this happened except to say that Michael says about this wire
> that it does not need to be any heavier than 16 gauge. I could try a 10
> Gauge, but now I have to wait for a new Pot box relay. Any ideas guys?
> Please be kind.
> Richard Thomas
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End of EV Digest, Vol 7, Issue 31
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