Re: more questions and thankyou
I agree. I have mixed various positives and negatives over 10 years. I've never had any transfer. But I have never mixed cats who had not been vaccinated first. It's just not that easy to transfer the virus. tonya Gloria Lane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I support and agree with what Brenda's saying. I've had 8 or 10 FELV cats. I started out being obsessive and suspicious about it, but moved into a different place based on the experience and info I've gathered. Started to write a longer email, but changed my mind. It's so sad, the hysteria and ignorance about FELV cats (and FIV also). Gloria On Feb 29, 2008, at 12:17 AM, Dorothy Noble wrote: Belinda wrote: FeLV IS NOT AS CONTAGIOUS AS SOME VETS TRY TO SCARE YOU INTO BELIEVING.� You can believe and do with your pets as you please but please don't post information you find on the internet as the absolute truth.� Anytime I hear that a negative has turned positive from exposure I can promise you almost all the time the cat was not vaccinated or tested a false negative and was positive all along.� A healthy vaccinated adult cat has virtually 0 chance of getting infected from a positive.� And if they did they would almost certainly fight it off.� The funny thing is...
Re: more questions and thankyou
As was mentioned by Lance, You can go to the following website that is an informational website for 4-Life and Transfer Factor. It is www.powerbod.com/us/karengriffith If you have any questions, you can call 740-992-5782. It is best to contact Karen are after 9 pm. EST. It is OK to call her up until 11 pm EST. She is an Animal Scientist with a specialty in Nutrition and Physiology. Call her any time you need help. If you need help with your FeLV kitties, give her a call as to nutritional, etc help. Karen Griffith Karen Griffith Farms 34440 State Route 7 Pomeroy, Ohio 45769 Phone: 740-992-5782 Website: www.karengriffith.com Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: whocares whocares To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:03 AM Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Hi, Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc.. I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little worried now. What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats? How long does the virus live outside the body? Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it. I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds simple) as you can. Thanks El --
Re: more questions and thankyou
El. You can use my Distributor number to order Transfer Factor. Call the company directly at the 800 number at 888-454-3374 and use my distributor number 6109801 to order your Transfer Factor. Order the Transfer Factor Plus Tri Factor (That is the human formula) I have found that it is the best for FeLV cats.) If you have any questions, you can call me at home at 740-992-5782. I will be more than willing to speak with you about the health of your cats and kittens. Karen Griffith Karen Griffith Farms 34440 State Route 7 Pomeroy, Ohio 45769 Phone: 740-992-5782 Website: www.karengriffith.com Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: whocares whocares To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:03 AM Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Hi, Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc.. I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little worried now. What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats? How long does the virus live outside the body? Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it. I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds simple) as you can. Thanks El --
Re: more questions and thankyou
I support and agree with what Brenda's saying. I've had 8 or 10 FELV cats. I started out being obsessive and suspicious about it, but moved into a different place based on the experience and info I've gathered. Started to write a longer email, but changed my mind. It's so sad, the hysteria and ignorance about FELV cats (and FIV also). Gloria On Feb 29, 2008, at 12:17 AM, Dorothy Noble wrote: Belinda wrote: FeLV IS NOT AS CONTAGIOUS AS SOME VETS TRY TO SCARE YOU INTO BELIEVING.� You can believe and do with your pets as you please but please don't post information you find on the internet as the absolute truth.� Anytime I hear that a negative has turned positive from exposure I can promise you almost all the time the cat was not vaccinated or tested a false negative and was positive all along.� A healthy vaccinated adult cat has virtually 0 chance of getting infected from a positive.� And if they did they would almost certainly fight it off.� The funny thing is...
Re: more questions and thankyou
You can order ImmunoRegulin yourself - that's what I've done. Vet can of course get it. I ordered it from RevivalAnimal.com and they also sell it thru Amazon.com Gloria On Feb 29, 2008, at 1:15 PM, whocares whocares wrote: Oh boy, I'm sorry I opened Pandora's box here. Thank you Karen. I will call you this evening and thank you for the distributor number. Is Immune Regulin readily available to vets everywhere? These guys blood panels are awful. Some of these little guys have come back FeLV-. I've had them vaxed for FeLV. I know they need retesting but it gives me a bit of hope. The vet says he's found that the vax isn't very good and that it works about 40% of the time. Another vet said it works up to 70% so who knows. It's the best I can do. I'm very worried about two of these little ones that are really sick - the one who had the severely infected mouth still is coughing and sneezing and some diahrea although the Neorase and probiotics help somewhat. The other little guy is about 2 and also has a heart murmur. He has spurts of energy but mostly rests. His URI is so stubborn, and he's still pussy despite all efforts so far. My own little guys are starting to feel the strain and my HCM guy is having some problems as are a few others, and I'm getting weary. Lynne, my heart goes out to you. I'm sorry BooBoo is so very ill. I also would highly recommend the FIP group and the Australian FIP group. They are very knowledgeable. The first website I checked out was the Cornell one. Does anyone know of any informative websites? One thing that doesn't make sense to me is to bleach everything and then ONLY vacuum carpets. Carpets are known to harbor pathogens. Anyway, it seems conflicting but like I said I don't know anything about this. Thanks
Re: more questions and thankyou
El, I started BooBoo on the Transfer Factor today. I don't know if it will help but I'll try anything. Karen told me to give it to him like any other pill but we had to rush him in today as I mentioned for another 100 cc to be taken from his lungs so a little while ago I got some food that has a lot of juice in it and broke one of the capsules and mixed the powder into the juice. He licked a lot of it but hopefully will go back to eat the rest in a while. I have to be careful giving this guy pills because he gets pretty frantic and that can't be good for his breathing so I'm gonna try to get a capsule in him daily one trick or another. Poor Boo has a bit of a heart murmur too, but then again, so does my 19 year old cat and me as well and we're doing ok. I joined the FIP group. I'm growing exhausted reading and researching these diseases, always looking for a ray of hope only to find more dismal results. We're kind of on a path now and other than the Transfer Factor and lung draining we will just try to live a normal human/cat life. Lynne - Original Message - From: whocares whocares To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 2:15 PM Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Oh boy, I'm sorry I opened Pandora's box here. Thank you Karen. I will call you this evening and thank you for the distributor number. Is Immune Regulin readily available to vets everywhere? These guys blood panels are awful. Some of these little guys have come back FeLV-. I've had them vaxed for FeLV. I know they need retesting but it gives me a bit of hope. The vet says he's found that the vax isn't very good and that it works about 40% of the time. Another vet said it works up to 70% so who knows. It's the best I can do. I'm very worried about two of these little ones that are really sick - the one who had the severely infected mouth still is coughing and sneezing and some diahrea although the Neorase and probiotics help somewhat. The other little guy is about 2 and also has a heart murmur. He has spurts of energy but mostly rests. His URI is so stubborn, and he's still pussy despite all efforts so far. My own little guys are starting to feel the strain and my HCM guy is having some problems as are a few others, and I'm getting weary. Lynne, my heart goes out to you. I'm sorry BooBoo is so very ill. I also would highly recommend the FIP group and the Australian FIP group. They are very knowledgeable. The first website I checked out was the Cornell one. Does anyone know of any informative websites? One thing that doesn't make sense to me is to bleach everything and then ONLY vacuum carpets. Carpets are known to harbor pathogens. Anyway, it seems conflicting but like I said I don't know anything about this. Thanks El --
Re: more questions and thankyou
Just a little plug, if yall order through Amazon.com, go to our website - www.rescuties.org - and order it through our affiliate link (in the left sidebar) and we will get some money for the kitties:) On 2/29/08, Gloria Lane [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You can order ImmunoRegulin yourself - that's what I've done. Vet can of course get it. I ordered it from RevivalAnimal.com and they also sell it thru Amazon.com http://amazon.com/ Gloria On Feb 29, 2008, at 1:15 PM, whocares whocares wrote: Oh boy, I'm sorry I opened Pandora's box here. Thank you Karen. I will call you this evening and thank you for the distributor number. Is Immune Regulin readily available to vets everywhere? These guys blood panels are awful. Some of these little guys have come back FeLV-. I've had them vaxed for FeLV. I know they need retesting but it gives me a bit of hope. The vet says he's found that the vax isn't very good and that it works about 40% of the time. Another vet said it works up to 70% so who knows. It's the best I can do. I'm very worried about two of these little ones that are really sick - the one who had the severely infected mouth still is coughing and sneezing and some diahrea although the Neorase and probiotics help somewhat. The other little guy is about 2 and also has a heart murmur. He has spurts of energy but mostly rests. His URI is so stubborn, and he's still pussy despite all efforts so far. My own little guys are starting to feel the strain and my HCM guy is having some problems as are a few others, and I'm getting weary. Lynne, my heart goes out to you. I'm sorry BooBoo is so very ill. I also would highly recommend the FIP group and the Australian FIP group. They are very knowledgeable. The first website I checked out was the Cornell one. Does anyone know of any informative websites? One thing that doesn't make sense to me is to bleach everything and then ONLY vacuum carpets. Carpets are known to harbor pathogens. Anyway, it seems conflicting but like I said I don't know anything about this. Thanks -- Rescuties - Saving the world, one cat at a time. http://www.rescuties.org Vist the Rescuties store and save a kitty life! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect-home?tag=rescuties-20 http://www.zazzle.com/rescuties* Please help Clarissa! http://rescuties.chipin.com/clarissasheart http://www.change.org/rescuties
Re: more questions and thankyou
El, I'm now home, and received your message. I have been trying to call you, but keep getting a busy signal. Thought you might be online. Will continue to try to reach you. If you get this message, give me a call at 740-992-5782. Speak with you soon. Karen
Re: more questions and thankyou
Wherever you read this it is WRONG, it lives secondsif that, once it dries it dies. Don't believe anything you read on the internet, anyone can write anything they want and if you read it at Cornells website, ALOT of their information on FeLV is inaccurate too. Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into the household. -- Belinda happiness is being owned by cats ... Be-Mi-Kitties http://www.bemikitties.com HostDesign4U.com [affordable hosting web design] http://www.hostdesign4u.com ForYouByUs.com [custom printing] http://www.foryoubyus.com
RE: more questions and thankyou
Now I am worried. I have been taking good care of Buzz's dishes and washing my
hands after I leave his room. If this virus lasts on clothing then I have put
my other cats at risk every time I pick them up in spite of the precautions.
Sue
Dorothy Noble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
=
Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that
you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been
where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days
after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into
the household.
Armond (my 9 yr old + kitty) was infected by a stray we brought in (and
sadfully neglected to have tested.) Armond was always super healthy and had
ALWAYS been vaccinated. My more fragile diabetic did NOT test positive - Go
figure! I had them all retested after 12 weeks and those tests were consistent
with the first one!
When we brought Preston home, he seemed to have diarrhea for a long time. (I
am sure that part of it was due to the changing of his food, even though it was
done gradually). I just kept mixing his wet food with lots of water to make
sure that he got plenty of fluids and he is so much better now. He has only
been with us for about 6 weeks and he came from a HUGE shelter so I am not sure
how long he had the diarrhea.
I know it IS overwhelming...still learning about it too. We just went
through our first sickness when Armond got calicivirus. (A respiratory thing
that settled in his mouth as nasty sores.) That lasted 5 weeks!
Good luck with your friends!
whocares whocares [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage {
FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma }Hi,
Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's
diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc..
I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are
housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune
challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little
worried now.
What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher
has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it
easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats?
How long does the virus live outside the body?
Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty.
I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer
Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it.
I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds
simple) as you can.
Thanks
El
-
-
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
Re: more questions and thankyou
This is why inaccurate information is so harmful, Dorthys info is wrong, it dries it dies, talk to any vet who is knowledgable about FeLV if you can find one, there aren't many even today it seems. Now I am worried. I have been taking good care of Buzz's dishes and washing my hands after I leave his room. If this virus lasts on clothing then I have put my other cats at risk every time I pick them up in spite of the precautions. -- Belinda happiness is being owned by cats ... Be-Mi-Kitties http://www.bemikitties.com HostDesign4U.com [affordable hosting web design] http://www.hostdesign4u.com ForYouByUs.com [custom printing] http://www.foryoubyus.com
RE: more questions and thankyou
Sue,
Just about everything I've read points toward what Belinda is saying.
Unless Buzz is able to sneeze enough onto your shirt to get it sopping
wet, there's no reason to worry. Handling dishes and boxes thoughtfully
should alleviate the risk of your other cats even coming into contact
with FeLV.
As I understand it, the reason for the 30 day gap is *NOT* directly due
to FeLV, but due to the fact that the FeLV+ cat, because of its status,
can contract some potentially very hard to eradicate diseases. It's for
*THOSE* that you want to give the 30 day waiting period, and not for
FeLV itself. You wouldn't want to bring a kitten into contact with the
germs from the last cat's especially stubborn URI, for example.
Obviously, if the FeLV+ cat did not die from a secondary infection, this
would seem to be moot. Hope that helps.
Lance
On Thu, 28 Feb 2008 08:22:14 -0500, Sue Koren [EMAIL PROTECTED]
said:
Now I am worried. I have been taking good care of Buzz's dishes and
washing my hands after I leave his room. If this virus lasts on clothing
then I have put my other cats at risk every time I pick them up in spite
of the precautions.
Sue
Dorothy Noble [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
=
Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places
that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat
has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you
should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce
a new negative cat into the household.
Armond (my 9 yr old + kitty) was infected by a stray we brought in (and
sadfully neglected to have tested.) Armond was always super healthy
and had ALWAYS been vaccinated. My more fragile diabetic did NOT test
positive - Go figure! I had them all retested after 12 weeks and those
tests were consistent with the first one!
When we brought Preston home, he seemed to have diarrhea for a long
time. (I am sure that part of it was due to the changing of his food,
even though it was done gradually). I just kept mixing his wet food
with lots of water to make sure that he got plenty of fluids and he is
so much better now. He has only been with us for about 6 weeks and he
came from a HUGE shelter so I am not sure how long he had the diarrhea.
I know it IS overwhelming...still learning about it too. We just went
through our first sickness when Armond got calicivirus. (A
respiratory thing that settled in his mouth as nasty sores.) That
lasted 5 weeks!
Good luck with your friends!
whocares whocares [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage {
FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma }Hi,
Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar.
Milli's diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc..
I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5
are housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8
immune challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters)
and am a little worried now.
What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My
dishwasher has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill
the virus? Is it easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact
have to be between cats? How long does the virus live outside the body?
Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty.
I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get
Transfer Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it.
I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it
sounds simple) as you can.
Thanks
El
-
-
Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo!
Search.
--
Lance Linimon
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: more questions and thankyou
Obviously, Dorothy, treat your cats the way you're comfortable with, but as someone else has stated, the Cornell info *is* outdated. If FeLV were as hugely contagious as stated, I would now have 4 cats dead of it, since our Patches escaped our quarantine the first night he was with us, and interacted freely with whichever of our cats cared to acknowledge his presence for at least 3 hours, and may have had some of their food and drink as well. Everybody is as robust as ever. Patches was already in the lymph-node-involvement stage, and only lasted 7 weeks with us after that. But if he hadn't been sick pretty much the entire time he was with us, we would probably have had the others vaccinated and let him mingle with them. He so wanted to be out with us, and instead he had to stay in a room alone most of the day. :-( Don't be affronted about your info being called wrong. It's easy to do, it seems like there's more wrong info out there than right. Diane R. From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy Noble Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:26 AM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: Re: more questions and thankyou You are welcome to describe my information as inaccurate; I wrote: Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into the household. I would think that the Cornell University (as well as all of the others documented below) hold a certain amount of credibility - more so than any layman just posting their opinions here. Whatever you believe, I would ALWAYS err on the side of caution and keep all of the litterboxes, bowls, etc separate. Without knowing it, I put my negative cats at risk; they had all been vaccinated for FeLV but it isn't 100% effective. Due to the extreme contagiousness, one of my vaccinated cats now is FeLV positive. Please note the yellow highlighted part below - by following this strictly, my other negative cat remained negative. Suit yourself, but I prefer to be proactive with my cats. What can I do now to protect my cats?? The only method for protecting your cats is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced. - * FeLV is considerably unstable and will not survive outside an infected cat for an extended length of time. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days before a new cat is brought into the household/facility in which a FeLV-positive cat once lived * Cleaning: Thoroughly disinfect or replace the food dishes, litter pans, and bedding that were used by the infected cat. Tile or hard surfaced floors should be cleaned and disinfected with a diluted bleach solution (approx. 4 oz. household bleach to 1 gal. water). Thoroughly vacuum rugs to eliminate the virus from carpeting. * These plus the thirty-day quarantine, should be sufficient to eliminate the virus within the household. -- Keep a FeLV-infected cat indoors and away from other cats. If the cat dies from FeLV, the Cornell Feline Health Center recommends a waiting period of at least 30 days before getting another cat. The house and cat supplies should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before bringing a new cat home. An FeLV-positive cat that is not sick is probably still shedding the virus. FeLV-positive cats should not be housed with other cats. Deciding what to do with an FeLV-positive cat in a multicat household can be very difficult. There are several options, including: * Euthanasia * Finding a home for the FeLV-positive cat where it will be the sole cat * Isolating the FeLV-positive cat within the home, by keeping it in a separate room and providing a separate litter tray and feeding bowl Because FeLV can be spread through litter trays, water and food bowls, and bedding, these should be disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per 1 gallon of water, or they should be replaced after isolating the FeLV-positive cat. Floors
RE: more questions and thankyou
My 2 cents worth: when I first needed to find out as much as poss about FeLV, one of the many sites I went on was the Cornell---and, barely educated as i was about the virus, I was shocked and disappointed to find (from other more recent, corroborated, credible research), that their information was incorrect/outdated. Also, the last update that Cornell had made to their site at the time I visited it, Jan 2004, was stated to be June 2003. I can't give you the specifics of their incorrect info now as it was 4 years ago, but I've never gone back to their website. Kerry M From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy Noble Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:26 AM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: Re: more questions and thankyou You are welcome to describe my information as inaccurate; I wrote: Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into the household. I would think that the Cornell University (as well as all of the others documented below) hold a certain amount of credibility - more so than any layman just posting their opinions here. Whatever you believe, I would ALWAYS err on the side of caution and keep all of the litterboxes, bowls, etc separate. Without knowing it, I put my negative cats at risk; they had all been vaccinated for FeLV but it isn't 100% effective. Due to the extreme contagiousness, one of my vaccinated cats now is FeLV positive. Please note the yellow highlighted part below - by following this strictly, my other negative cat remained negative. Suit yourself, but I prefer to be proactive with my cats. What can I do now to protect my cats?? The only method for protecting your cats is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced. - * FeLV is considerably unstable and will not survive outside an infected cat for an extended length of time. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days before a new cat is brought into the household/facility in which a FeLV-positive cat once lived * Cleaning: Thoroughly disinfect or replace the food dishes, litter pans, and bedding that were used by the infected cat. Tile or hard surfaced floors should be cleaned and disinfected with a diluted bleach solution (approx. 4 oz. household bleach to 1 gal. water). Thoroughly vacuum rugs to eliminate the virus from carpeting. * These plus the thirty-day quarantine, should be sufficient to eliminate the virus within the household. -- Keep a FeLV-infected cat indoors and away from other cats. If the cat dies from FeLV, the Cornell Feline Health Center recommends a waiting period of at least 30 days before getting another cat. The house and cat supplies should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before bringing a new cat home. An FeLV-positive cat that is not sick is probably still shedding the virus. FeLV-positive cats should not be housed with other cats. Deciding what to do with an FeLV-positive cat in a multicat household can be very difficult. There are several options, including: * Euthanasia * Finding a home for the FeLV-positive cat where it will be the sole cat * Isolating the FeLV-positive cat within the home, by keeping it in a separate room and providing a separate litter tray and feeding bowl Because FeLV can be spread through litter trays, water and food bowls, and bedding, these should be disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per 1 gallon of water, or they should be replaced after isolating the FeLV-positive cat. Floors should be cleaned and disinfected with a bleach solution, and rugs should be thoroughly vacuumed. - If you have previously had a cat with FeLV, wait at least 30 days before acquiring a new cat. During that time, all litterboxes and food bowls should be replaced, and the premises cleaned thoroughly. Belinda Sauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is why inaccurate
RE: more questions and thankyou
Dorothy You are correct in the fact that this is what's on the Cornell web site-unfortunately that site has not been updated in years and does indeed contain some very outdated info. That info was then used by a variety of other sites as gospel and therein the dilemma. I know there are other references, more recent, that verify the 'if it dries-it dies' construct. I spent hours and hours researching when my Tucson was first diagnosed at age 5 and that first hit on the Cornell site gave me countless hours of sleepness nights! And you are correct in saying that FELV vaccine is not 100%--no vaccine is. But one thing I did learn in my readings became a critical piece of info when I was trying to figure things out. My Tucson had been tested when I first got her at about 8 weeks old she was neg. Then all of a sudden, almost 5 years later, she tested positive. She was an indoor only cat from the moment I got her the other 3 cats I had, (2 of whom came in as kittens after I got Tucson) consistently tested neg when I had them tested as adults. Turns out that depending on the 'stage' of the virus when snap test is administered, the results can be a false negative. Indeed, the ideal protocol for kittens is to test at the point of weaning, and if neg, test again no sooner than 6-9 months-of course, that would eliminate all adoptions! Anyway, based on my personal experience (such as it is) the exhaustive reading and consulting I did, I (and the 2 vets who treated Tucson) were convinced beyond a shadow of a doubt that she harbored the virus all along. And, it is not such a transmittable disease because the 3 cats she lived with all those years are still neg, still share food/water dishes, litter boxes etc. The only changes I made after Tucson's diagnosis was to vaccinate the other 3-and yes, I took in a stray I'd been feeding for two years who was never sick a day in his life and he turned out to be positive. Christiane Biagi 914-632-4672 Cell: 914-720-6888 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Katrina Animal Reunion Team (KART) www.findkpets.org Join Us Help Reunite Katrina-displaced Families with their Animals From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy Noble Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:26 PM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: Re: more questions and thankyou You are welcome to describe my information as inaccurate; I wrote: Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into the household. I would think that the Cornell University (as well as all of the others documented below) hold a certain amount of credibility - more so than any layman just posting their opinions here. Whatever you believe, I would ALWAYS err on the side of caution and keep all of the litterboxes, bowls, etc separate. Without knowing it, I put my negative cats at risk; they had all been vaccinated for FeLV but it isn't 100% effective. Due to the extreme contagiousness, one of my vaccinated cats now is FeLV positive. Please note the yellow highlighted part below - by following this strictly, my other negative cat remained negative. Suit yourself, but I prefer to be proactive with my cats. What can I do now to protect my cats?? The only method for protecting your cats is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced. - * FeLV is considerably unstable and will not survive outside an infected cat for an extended length of time. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days before a new cat is brought into the household/facility in which a FeLV-positive cat once lived * Cleaning: Thoroughly disinfect or replace the food dishes, litter pans, and bedding that were used by the infected cat. Tile or hard surfaced floors should be cleaned and disinfected with a diluted bleach solution (approx. 4 oz. household bleach to 1 gal. water). Thoroughly vacuum rugs to eliminate the virus from carpeting. * These plus the thirty-day quarantine, should be sufficient to eliminate the virus within the household
RE: more questions and thankyou
One more thing about transmission-a very wise vet once said to me that the FELV virus is not a new virus, its been around since the dinosaurs! If it were than transmittable, the cat species would have died out long ago. Christiane Biagi 914-632-4672 Cell: 914-720-6888 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Katrina Animal Reunion Team (KART) www.findkpets.org Join Us Help Reunite Katrina-displaced Families with their Animals From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rosenfeldt, Diane Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:56 PM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Obviously, Dorothy, treat your cats the way you're comfortable with, but as someone else has stated, the Cornell info *is* outdated. If FeLV were as hugely contagious as stated, I would now have 4 cats dead of it, since our Patches escaped our quarantine the first night he was with us, and interacted freely with whichever of our cats cared to acknowledge his presence for at least 3 hours, and may have had some of their food and drink as well. Everybody is as robust as ever. Patches was already in the lymph-node-involvement stage, and only lasted 7 weeks with us after that. But if he hadn't been sick pretty much the entire time he was with us, we would probably have had the others vaccinated and let him mingle with them. He so wanted to be out with us, and instead he had to stay in a room alone most of the day. :-( Don't be affronted about your info being called wrong. It's easy to do, it seems like there's more wrong info out there than right. Diane R. _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy Noble Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:26 AM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: Re: more questions and thankyou You are welcome to describe my information as inaccurate; I wrote: Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into the household. I would think that the Cornell University (as well as all of the others documented below) hold a certain amount of credibility - more so than any layman just posting their opinions here. Whatever you believe, I would ALWAYS err on the side of caution and keep all of the litterboxes, bowls, etc separate. Without knowing it, I put my negative cats at risk; they had all been vaccinated for FeLV but it isn't 100% effective. Due to the extreme contagiousness, one of my vaccinated cats now is FeLV positive. Please note the yellow highlighted part below - by following this strictly, my other negative cat remained negative. Suit yourself, but I prefer to be proactive with my cats. What can I do now to protect my cats?? The only method for protecting your cats is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced. - * FeLV is considerably unstable and will not survive outside an infected cat for an extended length of time. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days before a new cat is brought into the household/facility in which a FeLV-positive cat once lived * Cleaning: Thoroughly disinfect or replace the food dishes, litter pans, and bedding that were used by the infected cat. Tile or hard surfaced floors should be cleaned and disinfected with a diluted bleach solution (approx. 4 oz. household bleach to 1 gal. water). Thoroughly vacuum rugs to eliminate the virus from carpeting. * These plus the thirty-day quarantine, should be sufficient to eliminate the virus within the household. -- Keep a FeLV-infected cat indoors and away from other cats. If the cat dies from FeLV, the Cornell Feline Health Center recommends a waiting period of at least 30 days before getting another cat. The house and cat supplies should be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected before bringing a new cat home. An FeLV-positive cat that is not sick is probably still shedding the virus. FeLV-positive cats should not be housed with other cats. Deciding what to do with an FeLV-positive cat
RE: more questions and thankyou
Chris- it sounds like she was a carrier? Have you heard this term used before as it relates to Felv? When Monkee tested positive for the third time, my vet said it didn't look good for him to just be a carrier- a cat that carries it in the bloodstream, but not in the bone marrow where it would actually be replicated and circulated throughout the whole body. Obviously, it was in his bone marrow and I didn't need to put him thru a needle aspiration to find that out. I think carriers-only is possible tho w/ Felv and I guess it's what we all hope for, especially if a cat is asymptomatic and thus, not viremic- aka, actively shedding the virus, then yes, it's possible to have multiple false negatives- and also possible for the carrier cat to not transmit the virus to others, no matter what the contact- b/c the cat is not shedding the virus. I think we all need to keep in mind that Felv is a VIRUS (despite it's misleading name- just as FIP has a misleading name). Viruses in general are extremely complex and extremely misunderstood. They are very complicated. Nothing is 100% when it comes to viruses and we need to remember that. No vaccine is 100% against a virus, but on the other hand, exposure is also not 100% for contraction. Example, we are all exposed to the human herpes virus so much more than any of us of want to think- and some of us probably are carrying it some where in our bodies, yet we are asymptomatic- but not every single one of us in the world has herpes!!! That is just one easy example, but there are many others for sure. Some of us have better immune systems than others. Some people can be faced with an onslaught of viruses and never come down with anything. We are all exposed to viruses everyday (and I do mean viruses, not bacteria-- altho that too!), but we aren't all sick. Because viruses are ancient and they constantly mutate, it's not worth fretting over daily unless you are one of the researchers devoting your life to studying them them in a lab! We do the best we can, period. As much as we don't want to admit it, all of our cats WILL die...period. Yes, we want them to have a long, pain free life, but that can't always be accomplished so the best we can aim for is to give them a sheltered and loving life- long or short. If you spend all of your time worrying and fretting over them, then you are cheating your cat out of quality time spent with you. caroline From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: RE: more questions and thankyouDate: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:06:55 -0500 Dorothy You are correct in the fact that this is what’s on the Cornell web site—unfortunately that site has not been updated in years and does indeed contain some very outdated info. That info was then used by a variety of other sites as gospel and therein the dilemma. I know there are other references, more recent, that verify the ‘if it dries—it dies’ construct. I spent hours and hours researching when my Tucson was first diagnosed at age 5 and that first hit on the Cornell site gave me countless hours of sleepness nights! And you are correct in saying that FELV vaccine is not 100%--no vaccine is. But one thing I did learn in my readings became a critical piece of info when I was trying to figure things out. My Tucson had been tested when I first got her at about 8 weeks old she was neg. Then all of a sudden, almost 5 years later, she tested positive. She was an indoor only cat from the moment I got her the other 3 cats I had, (2 of whom came in as kittens after I got Tucson) consistently tested neg when I had them tested as adults. Turns out that depending on the ‘stage’ of the virus when snap test is administered, the results can be a false negative. Indeed, the ideal protocol for kittens is to test at the point of weaning, and if neg, test again no sooner than 6-9 months—of course, that would eliminate all adoptions! Anyway, based on my personal experience (such as it is) the exhaustive reading and consulting I did, I (and the 2 vets who treated Tucson) were convinced beyond a shadow of a doubt that she harbored the virus all along. And, it is not such a transmittable disease because the 3 cats she lived with all those years are still neg, still share food/water dishes, litter boxes etc. The only changes I made after Tucson’s diagnosis was to vaccinate the other 3—and yes, I took in a stray I’d been feeding for two years who was never sick a day in his life and he turned out to be positive… Christiane Biagi 914-632-4672 Cell: 914-720-6888 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Katrina Animal Reunion Team (KART) www.findkpets.org Join Us Help Reunite Katrina-displaced Families with their Animals From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dorothy NobleSent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:26 PMTo: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Re: more questions and thankyou You are welcome to describe my information
RE: more questions and thankyou
Well, she's had a few episodes of very low white blood counts in the last few years. Each time, vet treated her with immune regulin and it bounced back up. She's a hefty 18 pounds, a cantankerous calico. I will when I get a chance find the references to the need for repeated testing of kittens in order to really rule FELV out. Christiane Biagi 914-632-4672 Cell: 914-720-6888 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Katrina Animal Reunion Team (KART) www.findkpets.org Join Us Help Reunite Katrina-displaced Families with their Animals From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Caroline Kaufmann Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:59 PM To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Chris- it sounds like she was a carrier? Have you heard this term used before as it relates to Felv? When Monkee tested positive for the third time, my vet said it didn't look good for him to just be a carrier- a cat that carries it in the bloodstream, but not in the bone marrow where it would actually be replicated and circulated throughout the whole body. Obviously, it was in his bone marrow and I didn't need to put him thru a needle aspiration to find that out. I think carriers-only is possible tho w/ Felv and I guess it's what we all hope for, especially if a cat is asymptomatic and thus, not viremic- aka, actively shedding the virus, then yes, it's possible to have multiple false negatives- and also possible for the carrier cat to not transmit the virus to others, no matter what the contact- b/c the cat is not shedding the virus. I think we all need to keep in mind that Felv is a VIRUS (despite it's misleading name- just as FIP has a misleading name). Viruses in general are extremely complex and extremely misunderstood. They are very complicated. Nothing is 100% when it comes to viruses and we need to remember that. No vaccine is 100% against a virus, but on the other hand, exposure is also not 100% for contraction. Example, we are all exposed to the human herpes virus so much more than any of us of want to think- and some of us probably are carrying it some where in our bodies, yet we are asymptomatic- but not every single one of us in the world has herpes!!! That is just one easy example, but there are many others for sure. Some of us have better immune systems than others. Some people can be faced with an onslaught of viruses and never come down with anything. We are all exposed to viruses everyday (and I do mean viruses, not bacteria-- altho that too!), but we aren't all sick. Because viruses are ancient and they constantly mutate, it's not worth fretting over daily unless you are one of the researchers devoting your life to studying them them in a lab! We do the best we can, period. As much as we don't want to admit it, all of our cats WILL die...period. Yes, we want them to have a long, pain free life, but that can't always be accomplished so the best we can aim for is to give them a sheltered and loving life- long or short. If you spend all of your time worrying and fretting over them, then you are cheating your cat out of quality time spent with you. caroline _ From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: felvtalk@felineleukemia.org Subject: RE: more questions and thankyou Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:06:55 -0500 Dorothy You are correct in the fact that this is what's on the Cornell web site-unfortunately that site has not been updated in years and does indeed contain some very outdated info. That info was then used by a variety of other sites as gospel and therein the dilemma. I know there are other references, more recent, that verify the 'if it dries-it dies' construct. I spent hours and hours researching when my Tucson was first diagnosed at age 5 and that first hit on the Cornell site gave me countless hours of sleepness nights! And you are correct in saying that FELV vaccine is not 100%--no vaccine is. But one thing I did learn in my readings became a critical piece of info when I was trying to figure things out. My Tucson had been tested when I first got her at about 8 weeks old she was neg. Then all of a sudden, almost 5 years later, she tested positive. She was an indoor only cat from the moment I got her the other 3 cats I had, (2 of whom came in as kittens after I got Tucson) consistently tested neg when I had them tested as adults. Turns out that depending on the 'stage' of the virus when snap test is administered, the results can be a false negative. Indeed, the ideal protocol for kittens is to test at the point of weaning, and if neg, test again no sooner than 6-9 months-of course, that would eliminate all adoptions! Anyway, based on my personal experience (such as it is) the exhaustive reading and consulting I did, I (and the 2 vets who treated Tucson) were convinced beyond a shadow of a doubt that she harbored the virus all along. And, it is not such a transmittable disease because the 3 cats she lived with all
Re: more questions and thankyou
Also inaccurate *Due to the extreme contagiousness* -- Belinda happiness is being owned by cats ... Be-Mi-Kitties http://www.bemikitties.com HostDesign4U.com [affordable hosting web design] http://www.hostdesign4u.com ForYouByUs.com [custom printing] http://www.foryoubyus.com
Re: more questions and thankyou
All I'm saying is not all the information you find on the internet is accurate and if you think it is your in for a rude awakening. Your highlighted in yellow info is not correct. I'm speaking from experience, mine and many others on the list. My vet was fully aware of my situation, Bailey was 5 months old when I found him, I had 3 cats at the time and Bailey was + the others all negative and vaccinated. He was separate because I had just been in a situation of having 5 cats, 4 positive. I lost 3, one turned negative and the 5th never had it, she had lived with all the at the time unknown positives from 6 weeks of age. This was back in the late 80's, early 90's before very much was known about FeLV and my then vet was very old and told me I didn't have to worry or vaccinate since my guys were all indoors. Well something I or he never thought about, they all had lives before me. I don't know who had it or if anyone gave it to anyone, I just know when I decided to see a different vet I had them all checked and 4 were positive. I lost 3 of them in 15 months, they were all older, 5, 7, and 9 years old. Teenye turned negative and lived to be 16, and Buddie was negative her whole life, unvaccinated and living together with the rest for years before I knew anyone had it. Once I found out, she was vaccinated regularly but not separated. Anyway back to Bailey, 3 vets told me to euthanize him, that he would be dead in 3 months and infect all my others. After finding out that Joey was sneaking under his door and playing with him while I was at work I decided to let him out and to keep him. He lived, ate with, played with, groomed, and on occasion had fights with all of his house mates, all who were negative and vaccinated. In 11 years nobody got it from him, he passed away in 2006 at age 11, so all the vets were wrong and my gut and experience were right. My now vet knew about and gave her blessing to our living arrangements. She tried desperately to save Bailey when he got sick but it wasn't to be. I would not do anything different if I were to do it over again. FeLV IS NOT AS CONTAGIOUS AS SOME VETS TRY TO SCARE YOU INTO BELIEVING. You can believe and do with your pets as you please but please don't post information you find on the internet as the absolute truth. Anytime I hear that a negative has turned positive from exposure I can promise you almost all the time the cat was not vaccinated or tested a false negative and was positive all along. A healthy vaccinated adult cat has virtually 0 chance of getting infected from a positive. And if they did they would almost certainly fight it off. Where did you find the quote below, it looks very familar. And as I said before, Cornells info is outdated they haven't updated that in 10 years at least, it is inaccurate. I truthfully have no idea which or how many of my original 5 had FeLV, several of them were sickly all their lives, several were related, 3 of the 5 were related. None were vaccinated because my very old vet obviously didn't know much about it and told me they were all OK and I didn't need to test or vaccinate. That was my wake call and when I started to learn more about it. I had no thought to have anymore positives when I found Bailey but that the way someone else planned it and we did the best we could in our situation. As I expect you are, I just don't want new people reading inaccurate info thinking it is correct. I visited Cornells website when I got a computer and their info hasn't changed. There is much more known about FeLV than there was 10 years ago but Cornell hasn't posted any of it so as far as I'm concerned their info is inaccurate. All this is my first hand exerpience and opinions, the best place to get accurate info is from a vet who is knowledgable about FeLV and goes to continued education seminars, not the internet. I'll take other people experiences over the internet anyday, but as with you the final decision is mine and mine alone. *W*_*hat can I do now to protect my cats*_*??** The only method for protecting your cats is to remove any FELV-positive cat from other cats completely. You should also follow strict quarantine procedures including separate utensils, housing, litter pans for the FELV positive cat, and thoroughly washing your hands, clothing and shoes after handling and caring for the FELV positive cat. Do not breed an FELV positive queen!! If you lose a cat to FELV, it is recommended that you wait 30 days before bringing in a new cat, and then only after the area has been thoroughly scrubbed and disinfected with a solution containing 4 ounces of household bleach per gallon of water, rugs vacuumed completely, and all litter pans, food dishes, bedding, etc. have been replaced.* -- Belinda happiness is being owned by cats ... Be-Mi-Kitties http://www.bemikitties.com HostDesign4U.com [affordable hosting web design]
Re: more questions and thankyou
Belinda wrote: FeLV IS NOT AS CONTAGIOUS AS SOME VETS TRY TO SCARE YOU INTO BELIEVING.#65533; You can believe and do with your pets as you please but please don't post information you find on the internet as the absolute truth.#65533; Anytime I hear that a negative has turned positive from exposure I can promise you almost all the time the cat was not vaccinated or tested a false negative and was positive all along.#65533; A healthy vaccinated adult cat has virtually 0 chance of getting infected from a positive.#65533; And if they did they would almost certainly fight it off.#65533; The funny thing is - you sound as if you are trying to say that you know my situation. You; just another uninformed person on the internet...(remember, you are the one who said not all the information you find on the internet is accurate.) Have you ever heard of a library, Belinda? Or a veterinarian? Perhaps those are sources you would like to consider, although I am sure that in your opinion, they are not accurate either. I have done TONS of independent research and I also speak from personal experience. Since you obviously do NOT know my situation, let me tell you about it. Armond came to me at 4 weeks old - FeLV negative and always immunized. He was still negative at age 8 years when we moved to a new state and all of the animals were tested again before moving. At age 8 1/2, we brought a stray in; after 6 months she got sick and we discovered she was FeLV positive. Knowing that it is extremely contagious, our vet wanted Armond tested immediately. Sure enough, he was positive also. Coincidence? Every other test was a false negative? I hardly think so and I'm sure you will agree that it is highly doubtful that Armond just happened to be a carrier for his entire life with it just showing up after he lived with the FeLV kitty for 6 months. In the paragraph above (where I highlighted your ridiculous comment) I see where you are trying to justify putting your own cats at risk. Since you can promise that the cat was positive all along you relieve yourself of any responsibility for intentionally putting them at risk for infection. Shame on you. How dare you have the audacity to say that FeLV IS NOT AS CONTAGIOUS AS SOME VETS TRY TO SCARE YOU INTO BELIEVING. ? What part of this situation do you not understand? And, how dare you pass this false information on to others? What a terrible disservice you have done to anyone who reads this. I am disgusted to think that people are listening to you and taking your advice. I would like to know where you attended veterinary school and what your gripe is with Cornell University? (One of the finest in the country, however you think that you are more knowledgable than their experts. Amazing...) I can assure you that I will not return to this support group again. I refuse to participate in a battle of wills with someone like you. Please do your homework about this before you feel the need to give any more possibly fatal advice. Belinda Sauro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: All I'm saying is not all the information you find on the internet is accurate and if you think it is your in for a rude awakening. Your highlighted in yellow info is not correct. I'm speaking from experience, mine and many others on the list. My vet was fully aware of my situation, Bailey was 5 months old when I found him, I had 3 cats at the time and Bailey was + the others all negative and vaccinated. He was separate because I had just been in a situation of having 5 cats, 4 positive. I lost 3, one turned negative and the 5th never had it, she had lived with all the at the time unknown positives from 6 weeks of age. This was back in the late 80's, early 90's before very much was known about FeLV and my then vet was very old and told me I didn't have to worry or vaccinate since my guys were all indoors. Well something I or he never thought about, they all had lives before me. I don't know who had it or if anyone gave it to anyone, I just know when I decided to see a different vet I had them all checked and 4 were positive. I lost 3 of them in 15 months, they were all older, 5, 7, and 9 years old. Teenye turned negative and lived to be 16, and Buddie was negative her whole life, unvaccinated and living together with the rest for years before I knew anyone had it. Once I found out, she was vaccinated regularly but not separated. Anyway back to Bailey, 3 vets told me to euthanize him, that he would be dead in 3 months and infect all my others. After finding out that Joey was sneaking under his door and playing with him while I was at work I decided to let him out and to keep him. He lived, ate with, played with, groomed, and on occasion had fights with all of his house mates, all who were negative and vaccinated. In 11 years nobody got it from him, he passed away in 2006 at age
RE: more questions and thankyou
El, From everything I've read, the virus is extremely fragile. It can only live outside of a cat for, at most, a few minutes. I think I read that it can hold together in water for longer, so I make sure I don't drop any water when I'm carrying bowls. Unless, the cats are sneezing like crazy, I doubt any of it would end up on your clothes for long enough to cause concerns for your other cats. I give Ember the recommended dose of DMG from Vetri-Science' packaging. I think it's .5 ml. Not sure about that. I've read that, for FeLV+ cats, the dose should be doubled. I only read that one place, though, so I haven't followed through. For Transfer Factor, I think you'd be best served by contacting the company, 4Life. The web site is: http://www.4life.com I don't know if I said this, but with diarrhea, I've given Ember raw canned pumpkin (NOT pumpkin pie filler). She will just eat it up, without even stirring it into food. I've been told that the best way to give pumpkin is to stir a tablespoon (or so) into canned food. I hope Milli's diarrhea goes away soon, and that the other FeLV+ cats are able to fight off the virus. Best, Lance On Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:03:14 -0700, whocares whocares [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: Hi, Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc.. I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little worried now. What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats? How long does the virus live outside the body? Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it. I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds simple) as you can. Thanks El _ -- Lance Linimon [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: more questions and thankyou
Apparently the virus CAN live for a while. I have read in several places that
you need to clean any area with a bleach/water cleaner if a + cat has been
where a negative one will be staying. It is said that you should wait 30 days
after your + cat is gone before you should introduce a new negative cat into
the household.
Armond (my 9 yr old + kitty) was infected by a stray we brought in (and
sadfully neglected to have tested.) Armond was always super healthy and had
ALWAYS been vaccinated. My more fragile diabetic did NOT test positive - Go
figure! I had them all retested after 12 weeks and those tests were consistent
with the first one!
When we brought Preston home, he seemed to have diarrhea for a long time. (I
am sure that part of it was due to the changing of his food, even though it was
done gradually). I just kept mixing his wet food with lots of water to make
sure that he got plenty of fluids and he is so much better now. He has only
been with us for about 6 weeks and he came from a HUGE shelter so I am not sure
how long he had the diarrhea.
I know it IS overwhelming...still learning about it too. We just went
through our first sickness when Armond got calicivirus. (A respiratory thing
that settled in his mouth as nasty sores.) That lasted 5 weeks!
Good luck with your friends!
whocares whocares [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage {
FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma }Hi,
Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's
diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc..
I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are
housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune
challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little
worried now.
What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher
has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it
easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats?
How long does the virus live outside the body?
Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty.
I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer
Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it.
I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds
simple) as you can.
Thanks
El
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RE: more questions and thankyou
Hi, Firstly, thankyou to everyone who responded and for the advice thusfar. Milli's diahrea is getting better with Neorase and probiotics, etc.. I've gotten 5 of the 7 new ones tested and they've all come back FeLV+. 5 are housed together and the other 2 are each in their own rooms. I have 8 immune challenged cats of my own (some of which are permanent fosters) and am a little worried now. What precautions do I have to take? Is FeLV extremely contagious? My dishwasher has a sani cycle which I've been using. Does sanitizing kill the virus? Is it easily spread on clothes? How close does the contact have to be between cats? How long does the virus live outside the body? Lance, how much DMG do you give? I have some for my HCM kitty. I live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. Does anyone know where I can get Transfer Factor? No naturpath, etc. here seems to have heard of it. I'm way over my head here. Please give me as much advice (even if it sounds simple) as you can. Thanks El _
