Ken Durling wrote:
Hi folks -
I have two questions. One is I'm having a very hard time scanning
Superia 400, and there's no setting for it in Vuescan. Colors are
coming out all wrong even on the scan, and it's very hard to even know
where to start fixing. What Vuescan settings can I
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Jawed Ashraf wrote:
The LS40 and LS4000 (used with Nikon Scan) do. It's what
happens when the
auto-exposure kicks in (I believe) which changes the brightness of the
lamp (there's logic for why I could be wrong - I'll let somebody else
argue the point).
No, they don't. As Ed explained,
Although I have no empirical knowledge of this, it has been noted that
the newer form of dICE has eliminated most of the softening process.
Having studied a few scans which were done with the original dICE and
the IR channel from that process, I concluded that the softening was a
result of
Read the Advanced Workflow Suggestions section of the help file and lock in a test
exposure. It worked for me on Superia 800..
Working in sRGB is fine, but you might look into profiling your monitor with
Colorvision's Spyder with Photocal, and into printer profiles using either software
such
On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:59:45 +1100, you wrote:
Ken Durling wrote:
Hi folks -
I have two questions. One is I'm having a very hard time scanning
Superia 400, and there's no setting for it in Vuescan. Colors are
coming out all wrong even on the scan, and it's very hard to even know
where
I recently bought a refurbished CanoScan 2710. I also bought and later down loaded
the latest copy of Vuescan. I did not install the Canon software at all.
My problem is that I am getting soft scans. Even at 2710 resolution, the scans seem
to be a little out of focus. What I am doing is
At 04:21 PM 11/25/2001 -0800, you wrote:
At 02:54 PM 11/25/01, Doug Segar wrote:
Since the Administrator has issued no such notice regarding the hand checking film
provision, the rule does apply WITHOUT exception.
It is in no way clear that the Administrator has not done this. It is difficult
Photo Retouch Pro
Try this fantastic software from Binuscan .
I have used it with my scan pictures and pictures from my D1X
More info at binuscan.com
Mikael Risedal
_
Hämta MSN Explorer kostnadsfritt på http://explorer.msn.se
At 11:14 AM -0600 11/26/01, dbdors wrote:
My problem is that I am getting soft scans. Even at 2710
resolution, the scans seem to be a little out of focus. What I am
doing is scanning and then comparing the scans to the slide on a
light table.
I used a Canon FS2710 for a year or so -
dbdors wrote:
I recently bought a refurbished CanoScan 2710. I also bought and later down loaded
the latest copy of Vuescan. I did not install the Canon software at all.
Install Canoscan and get used to that first. It is easier to use when starting from
scratch. Leave it on
the default
To answer what Roger didn't:
2. Preview means it will focus at the time of preview but will not refocus at scan,
Scan means it will not focus for the preview (can save time) but will focus for the
scan, and Always means it focuses both times.
3. No with the Canon 2710 to my knowledge.
On Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:06:01 , you wrote:
Photo Retouch Pro
Try this fantastic software from Binuscan .
I have used it with my scan pictures and pictures from my D1X
At $1000, it BETTER be good!is it Mac only?
Ken Durling
Photo.net portfolio:
At 11:06 AM 11/26/01, Mikael Risedal wrote:
Photo Retouch Pro
Try this fantastic software from Binuscan .
I have used it with my scan pictures and pictures from my D1X
I saw this software at the Newspaper Association of America show in June
and it looked pretty good. However, it is Mac only at
On Tue, 27 Nov 2001 08:38:56 +1300, you wrote:
Ken Durling wrote:
I have two questions. One is I'm having a very hard time scanning
Superia 400, and there's no setting for it in Vuescan.
General consensus is to use Reala 100 (Japan), I believe. That choice gives me the
most accurate colour
Thank you.
Art
Doug Segar wrote:
At 04:21 PM 11/25/2001 -0800, you wrote:
At 02:54 PM 11/25/01, Doug Segar wrote:
Since the Administrator has issued no such notice regarding the hand checking film
provision, the rule does apply WITHOUT exception.
It is in no way clear that the
Very strange. I've tried everybody's suggestions, scanning under SGH,
NGH, Real 100 (Japan) even Royal Gold 400, but a shot I have of a
blood-red DayLily keeps coming out deep purple. Any ideas?
Ken
Well, in disbelief, I have just done a test. With Nikon Scan 3.1.1 running
stand-alone.
Nikon Scan has four sliders for Analog Gain: Master, Red, Green and Blue.
They work additively, i.e. Red brightness equals Master + Red.
In my test I used a slide that I have lying around (i.e. I didn't use
In a message dated 11/26/2001 5:58:04 PM EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
Looking into the scanner ***I could clearly see that the brightness of the
alternating Red, Green, Blue light differed with each scan***. The light
is
seen reflecting off the slide mount.
The length of time the LED
Very strange. I've tried everybody's suggestions, scanning under SGH,
NGH, Real 100 (Japan) even Royal Gold 400, but a shot I have of a
blood-red DayLily keeps coming out deep purple. Any ideas?
The problem may lie with the film, not the scanner. If the film sees
colors differently than
Try the Generic setting, and the Advanced Workflow Suggestions to lock in exposure for
the roll.
Then if you feel experimental try different individual brightness settings on the
Color panel, esp. Red - try different combinations, maybe higher red and lower blue.
You can change it, then
Ken wrote:
Very strange. I've tried everybody's suggestions, scanning under SGH,
NGH, Real 100 (Japan) even Royal Gold 400, but a shot I have of a
blood-red DayLily keeps coming out deep purple. Any ideas?
Is there any grey point you can use with Levels to neutralise the image?
Rob
Rob
Ken Durling wrote:
Tried NHG, and it was way off. Haven't tried SHG, and I don't know
why not! Will do and report.
I don't know if you've tried this, but have a go at Generic Colour Negative
and Neutral instead of White Balance.
Rob
Rob Geraghty [EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://wordweb.com
Happens!
I have a colour neg of a sign which contains a pale green wash logo -
this will come out bright near fluro green scanned.
I had to drop a colour in and make the correction.
Rob
Ken Durling wrote:
Very strange. I've tried everybody's suggestions, scanning under SGH,
NGH, Real
On Tue, 27 Nov 2001 10:35:41 +1000, you wrote:
Ken Durling wrote:
Tried NHG, and it was way off. Haven't tried SHG, and I don't know
why not! Will do and report.
I don't know if you've tried this, but have a go at Generic Colour Negative
and Neutral instead of White Balance.
Rob
Thanks Rob
On Tue, 27 Nov 2001 10:31:02 +1000, you wrote:
Ken wrote:
Very strange. I've tried everybody's suggestions, scanning under SGH,
NGH, Real 100 (Japan) even Royal Gold 400, but a shot I have of a
blood-red DayLily keeps coming out deep purple. Any ideas?
Is there any grey point you can use with
From: Maris V. Lidaka, Sr. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
4. Try these sites:
http://www.mail-archive.com/filmscanners@halftone.co.uk
Maris,
Thanks, this link works. The other did not.
Darrell
Folks -
Your suggestions are helping. Generic and Neutral color balance
are getting me closer to at least the right hues, although the
saturation is still way off. Tweaking the brightness levels of the
reds and blues in the scan are helping too. I think it's to the
point where I can
Well whether or not the 'official process' has been followed is somewhat
irrelevant. I just got back from a multi-stop hop into, within and back
home from Europe. Here is what I found
I took all my film, put it in a ziplock baggy, and made sure I had some 1600
in there marked PUSH. With that
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