Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
I'm actually thinking about trying to photograph the slides with my
10D, and
am wondering what lens I'd need in order to match up the 24x36mm
slide to
the 15x22.5mm sensor. That would indeed solve the DOF problem.
Paul
You might consider using a Canon FD Auto Bellows
Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
From: Peter Marquis-Kyle
You might consider using a Canon FD Auto Bellows with the slide
duplicator accessory and, say, a 50mm macro lens. This would make
the business of framing, magnification and focus straightforward.
(If you were in Australia I'd lend this gear to
From: Peter Marquis-Kyle
This is all stuff that Canon MADE (past tense) as part of the manual
focus
system. The bits that I mentioned are all FD (manual focus), except
for the
adapter which allows you to attach the whole setup to your EOS mount
body.
see this 1982 brochure:
From: Peter Marquis-Kyle
You might consider using a Canon FD Auto Bellows with the slide
duplicator accessory and, say, a 50mm macro lens. This would make the
business of framing, magnification and focus straightforward.
(If you were in Australia I'd lend this gear to you...)
You'd need
Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
From: Arthur Entlich
Paul sent me a couple of his cooked slides to test with a few scanner
for him. I too thought these could by flattened by all the usual
methods, such as those you state below, until I saw them! Warped is a
kind word. These mounts are charcoal
I read this quickly, so perhaps I missed this piece of valuable info...
What are you planning to do with the scans?
If you want to make some good sized enlarged prints, I would suggest you
consider getting a flatbed which has a full bed transparency adapter.
Some of the older Umax scanners, like
Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
Some slides would require some cleanup in Photoshop, but surprisingly, most
look just fine except for the fuzziness caused by the inability to focus on
all parts of the slide. They're curved or rippled, and the cardboard mounts
are brown around the edges, but their
Keep in mind that heated slides will tend to pop, and the ones you have
will be even worse. I'd try to go with a cool illumination source if
possible.
Art
Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
From: Peter Marquis-Kyle
You might consider using a Canon FD Auto Bellows with the slide
duplicator accessory and,
On 1/18/04 5:13 AM, Arthur Entlich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I read this quickly, so perhaps I missed this piece of valuable info...
What are you planning to do with the scans?
If you want to make some good sized enlarged prints, I would suggest you
consider getting a flatbed which has a full
On 1/18/04 5:35 AM, Arthur Entlich [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Paul D. DeRocco wrote:
Some slides would require some cleanup in Photoshop, but surprisingly, most
look just fine except for the fuzziness caused by the inability to focus on
all parts of the slide. They're curved or rippled,
I came up against the dreaded blue cast when attempting to scan some
Kodachrome in my LS-2000. On Usenet, people have been fighting with this,
trying to find some easy tweak to the controls the controls to fix this. I
decided to buy a Kodachrome IT8 target and just profile the damn thing. I
found
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