Marvin: I shoot architecture using color neg, Fuji Reala, NPS and NPL,
exclusively... I meter everything with an incident meter and will often
overexpose to ensure shadow detail... these films are incredible... I am
currently getting custom prints and machine prints (from a Fuji Frontier)
made...
Tony: Would you be so kind as to give a step by step outline of your technique
for dealing with color neg from exposure to final output? Am particularly
interested in how you are dealing with 1. inversion...do you do it with the
scan software or take it into PShop 2. setting white/black/gray
Why not the Minolta Dimage Scan Elite?
DeVries wrote:
I'm in the market for a film scanner between US $500 and $1K. Am
considering:
Minolta Scan Dual II,
or a refurbed LS-30 for $500 or so,
New Coolscan IV,
or maybe a LS-2000.
Will be scanning lots of bw negs. Any advice for best
I want to throw this out for open comment and discussion...
I had the chance to speak with a real live lab tech (from Replicolor in
Salt Lake City, they are on the web at www.replicolor.com) this week...
I asked him about his perception of reality when it comes to
filmscanning and getting
Where's this thing for sale at?
Charles Platt wrote:
I was just about to pick up the phone and buy a Polaroid SS4000 when I ran
across a mail-order company which claims to have Canon's new 4000 dpi
scanner in stock and ready to ship, for $1099.
Since the Canon has the ability to handle APS
I live in Salt Lake City, which has fairly sizeable contingent of extremely
picky photogs... especially the large format landscape shooters... My local pro
shop, Pictureline, which takes on the air of catering to the trade, has started
to push the Epson 1640, which it seems a fair number of their
I was under the impression he was asking about 35mm scanners
M.Moore
Rob Geraghty wrote:
"Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Minolta over the LS 2000 Nikon (which I was ready to buy and they sell
both)...
The Minolta scan software is user friendly, I use it to TW
.
I was under the impression he was asking about 35mm scanners
M.Moore
Rob Geraghty wrote:
"Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Minolta over the LS 2000 Nikon (which I was ready to buy and they sell
both)...
The Minolta scan software is user friendly, I use i
If you followed my last post, you know that Joe Holmes has developed a
color space known as EktaSpace or "Joe RGB"... this is a link to a PDF
where he explains in such a way that even Groucho could undertsand
it...:)
http://www.westcoastimaging.com/wci/images/EkSpPS5.pdf
Mike Moore
I looked up Joe Holmes on Google, which led me to this CreativePro.com
article on the various color spaces...
http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/8582.html?origin=story
the author is pretty close to the Einstein standard but not quite to
Groucho's level...
:)
Mike M.
I cannot opine as to the new Nikon... it's not been on the market long enough
for the real bugs to come crawling out... I own a Minolta Elite... it has given
me good service and great scans... it doesn't have batch scanning, but the
scans I get are sharp and well exposed... My local pro shop
FYI: Anyone who wants to add to their vast knowledge of rendering
intents and color calibration in Photoshop can check out this link at
CreativeProse
http://www.creativepro.com/story/feature/12641.html?cprose=2-15
If anyone who thinks they understand it well enough to explain it to a
child
Tony: This was a test... I believe it was Einstein who said that if you cannot
explain a complex concept to a child, then you do not truly understand it
yourself :)
Mike M.
Tony Sleep wrote:
On Tue, 10 Apr 2001 21:57:05 -0600 Michael Moore ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
wrote:
http
I agree with Larry... I use a Minolta scanner... I use PhotoShop 6 (used to use
5.5.) and use its import TWAIN to bring up my Minolta scan software, which I use
to obtain a 16 bit linear scan, thus bringing a basically raw scan into PShop...
There I do my work, saving the image at various key
Dave: Please explain what process you are using to get from negs or trans
to a 24x36 ( I assume photographic) print? What scan DPI, print DPI, print
process, etc.
Thanks.
Mike M.
Dave King wrote:
Tony,
You're to be commended for bringing this problem to our attention.
I've mulled it over a
(not for supplying to
others). I suspect it might be more stable than CD-R dyes, but haven't
read anything definitive. Have you?
Art
Michael Moore wrote:
ReWritable is NOT preferable... CD-R media is cheap enought that you
don't need to mess with all the variables of trying to rewrite a CD
Re: Emulsion side up or down... it really doesn't matter as far as I can tell...
all you have to do is flip the image in PShop or whatever program you're using.
Mike M.
Rome wrote:
Hey guys,
Finally got my Minolta Dimage Scan Dual II back from the shop, a new
replacement actually. Seems to
Kurt:
1. I would suggest you get familiar with the scanner and workflow by using the Minolta
software at first... it's extremely user friendly... you may find you won't need to
master Vuescan...
2. I have Scan Elite and use it for color negs... I use the 16 bit linear scan setting
(which imports
ReWritable is NOT preferable... CD-R media is cheap enought that you
don't need to mess with all the variables of trying to rewrite a CD
file... What I and lot of other folks on this list do is to use the best
CD-R (not CD-RW) discs we can get ahold of (Kodaks Optima Gold or
Gold-Silver are
I use the Fujifilm CD-R 700MB (up to 12x) for archiving and passing out
to clients... Have worked great... I am going to switch to Kodak Optima
Gold or Gold silver this week... mainly for archival purposes... I also
record at 2x (even tho I have a 10x machine) and only put 550 MB on a
disc, cuz I
I second that... truthe be told, we are all babes in the woods on this digital
darkroom thing... quite literally, the blind leading the blind... to end this
with another cliche that applies ... The only stupid question is the one you
don't ask...
Mike M.
Tony Sleep wrote:
I've had a few
Here is another good link on burning CD-R
http://www.mscience.com/faq.html
Mike M.
Hey, Bill... your webmaster also made those files password protected
Mike M.
Bill Ross wrote:
I just ran some experiments and
I put the images into a directory on our website:
http://www.asf.com/temp/. Our webmaster helped out by converting all the
tifs
Larry: At the risk of asking you a question you may have already answered,
since I know you know very well which end of a computer is up, nevertheless,
the one thing that occurs to me is the color temp that you have the monitors
set for... could your new Dells somehow be overriding the color temp
a cowardly
custard!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] (Michael Moore) wrote:
Kodak makes an excellent photo weight glossy paper that works just fine
in my
Epson 740
Mike M.
Derek Clarke wrote:
In fairness to Epson, the full technical specs of all their papers is
available on their various na
Richard: You will no doubt be deluged with lots of answers to this and your previous
question. It appears that you are about to take the plunge into the swamp of
filmscanning... To answer your last question first..
1. ICE is always better than no ICE... That then leaves the question of how much
My personal choice, which has given me excellent results for almost 6 months, is
the Minolta Scan Elite... comes with ICE, 2820 DPI, good bundled scan software
and is supported by VueScan... FWIW
Mike Moore
Kurt Simpson wrote:
You know I've spent a lot of time lurking on this list and I
I'm not sure Dicky should be banned... I agree that his speling is horible :)
and his use of old Anglo Saxon words is probably better reserved for the
waterfront bar... but at least his rants help break the monotony of so much
scanner-speak... sort of like the fellow breaking wind at the
This why I use the Fuji emulsions... REALA in 35mm and NPS/NPL in 4x5... I shoot
in mixed light (daylight/tungsten/flourescent) with NO FILTERS and get great
results... I've been the gels/flourescent filters/this and that route... that's
the problem with trannies on interiors...
Mike M.
Tony
Kodak makes an excellent photo weight glossy paper that works just fine in my
Epson 740
Mike M.
Derek Clarke wrote:
In fairness to Epson, the full technical specs of all their papers is
available on their various national web sites.
But to be honest, I don't think they make a paper you
I've always looked on refurbs as the best of both worlds... one hand is the
lower price, the other is that the unit has already failed in the field (or
been returned for whatever reason) and the factory has had to not only fix it
but make sure it passes even more rigorous tests than the new units
Rob: Why don't you try a Fuji REALA negative at that size?
Mike M.
Rob Geraghty wrote:
FYI last night I tried my first A3 (not A3+) print from a 2700dpi scan.
The image was scanned from 100ASA print film with a Nikon LS30. The result
is good, but perhaps not as sharp as I'd like - but for
rid of the orange mask from the negative?
It also appears I need to buy some books...
--
Jim
Michael Moore wrote:
Jim: I have a Minolta Scan Elite which I use for scanning color negs... I
don't use VueScan, just the Minolta software, but the way I take my scans
into PShop is the key
:
On Sun, 25 Mar 2001 22:54:11 -0700 Michael Moore ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
what I
am thinking of doing is making up 3 large (say 12"x12") panels, one
white, one 18% gray, one white, attaching a color bar underneath and
sticking that in the main light area of each diff
Tony: This is the lab I mentioned to you that my friend uses...
http://www.replicolor.com/
Check out the film output sections for LVT and Solitaire...
At least it's a place to start.
Mike
Aha! The Polaroid marketing shark surfaces. How 'bout lending me one for
a year or so? :)
Mike M.
"Hemingway, David J" wrote:
Tony,
I would be happy to do an image(or 2 or 3) , 4x5, 6x7 or 35mm, on the
ProPalette 8K.
David
-Original Message-
From: Michael Moore [mai
Jim: I have a Minolta Scan Elite which I use for scanning color negs... I
don't use VueScan, just the Minolta software, but the way I take my scans
into PShop is the key to my success... I had the same problem with
apparently flat scans as well, until I started to scan the neg directly into
PShop
myself.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Michael Moore
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 8:00 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: filmscanners: Neg film for scanning
You may want to check out this link for the latest and greatest from
Roman: I agree with you and respect your obvious expertise... the key words you
have written are "tweak the process" and follow the manufacturer's
recommendations... which most mini-labs with part time teenage help are less likely
to do that a pro lab... not mention cleanliness of the processor..
Tony: FYI... in regards to getting trannies made from scans... I ran into a photog
here in Salt Lake who is in the high dollar super photo collage game... you know
the shots of earth and computers and suns and stars, etc. that get used in annual
reports and high tech ads.. this guy makes well
I shoot mostly architecture on Fuji emulsions, Reala for 35, NPS and NPL
for 4x5..then I scan them as 16 bit linear scans into PShop 6 from my
Minolta Dimage Elite, whre I do an invert and then levels which is
where the fun begins..the exteriors are pretty easy to scan and get the
color close
Alan Many of the so called generic or "supermarket brand" are made
by major manufacturers (konica, etc.) It sounds to me like your
scratches and muck problem is a Laboratory problem, not a film
problem... try to find a good custom lab where they use a dip and dunk
processor as opposed to a
Tony: As I have posted on this same subject, you know I have felt your pain... what
I would suggest checking out the following possibilities;
1. Have you taken a good look at the new Olympus dye-sub printer... my local pro
supplier has one with sample prints they made from their shots and they
What is PQPP?
Mike M.
Dave King wrote:
Dan Margulis has a mailing list called Color Theory at Egroups with
interesting threads on this topic, but I doubt it will help solve the
problem. Time will do that, as the trend is inevitable with digital
capture coming like a freight train.
FYI: I use Kodak's Glossy Paper on my Epson 740, set it to Photo Glossy
Film or somthing like that, anyway it gives great results that are hard to
tell from a photo print, plus the Kodak paper has the weight of a real
silver print..
Mike M.
Rob Geraghty wrote:
"Michael Moore" [EMAIL
That's what I thought as well and the minilab I used is one that (to the
naked eye) runs a clean process... however, what I noticed was that the grain
pattern in large areas of uniform density was much tighter and smoother in the
film from the custom lab...
Mike M.
Roman Kielich wrote:
At
Richard... This is no place for flame wars... The thing I like about this group
(and it is the only one I am on for this reason) is that the regular
participants seem to be possessed of a modicum of good manners and willingness
to help others out who may not be as experienced as some of the rest
Julie... I am going to risk Dickie's wrath and reply... I don't know the
anything about U.K. law... however, the distinction that needs to made here is
the difference between copyright (which applies to an original work of art,
literature, film, photos, etc) and the rights to use images of a
Larry: Please don't fall into Dicky's trap If all we want is absolute
technical info on our scanners, then we should read the manuals... I have
stayed on here because of you and Lynn and others who have things to say
that may only be peripheral to the act of scanning but quite germane to my
I shoot Fuji Reala 35mm and scan with a Minolta Svan Elite into PShop
6...
I have discovered something I already knew, but now that I have had my
eyes rubbed in it, I am definitely changing my habits.. I am referring
to grain... specifically the grain you see when you shoot a broad
expanse of any
Ezio : In case you missed my earlier posts DO NOT TOUCH THAT EMULSION... it
was made and developed long before hardening fixers were used... the compressed
air could blow it off the plate, the cotton will almost certainly scrape it.. if
you feel you must, try your cleaning on a plate that you
No flames here... But, every book I've read on working with PhotoShop (and I
have more invested in books than I care to think about) states that the
application of sharpening (actually Unsharp Mask in PShop) should be the last
thing you do before printing the image on the inkjet or whatever
Ezio: I will also be checking with some museum types I know... meanwhile my
suggestion is to NOT CLEAN the negs... leave them alone for now... if you have a
darkroom, make paper contact prints from them and work with those until you
get more info on how to deal with your glass plates... you
Ezio: I just did a little checking on Google the search engine (www.google.com)
under the term "glass plate photographic preservation". I got a lot of
references... this is one of them that sums up what most of the other say in
regard to storage and
Larry... Muchas muchas gracias... What a great way to start my day... Jay's
eye, like a great brandy, only improves with age... Again, thanks...
Mike M.
Larry Berman wrote:
I forgot to include the link.
Sorry...
Jay Maisel sent me a dozen images plus a portrait for use in promoting
Ah yes... the nervous Art Director... I'm surprised he didn't make you go back and
shoot it all on chromes I ran into one of those yesterday... I offered him the
negs, he looked liked I'd insulted his wife or his dog, then he called someone at
his separation house to ask "You can't get very
You're darn tootin' this is relevant! Please post your responses to Larry's
question here so the rest of us can benefit. Thanks in advance.
Mike M.
Larry Berman wrote:
Now that I've got my new Win2K system up and running (still waiting for a
second Sony monitor from Dell), I'm finding that
ts of
view from the other folks on the list.
Feel free to contact me if you have other questions.
Michael Moore
www.arcportal.com
Javed wrote:
I have recently bought a Nikon LS2000 for the purpose of scanning my old
negatives and archiving them on CD's. Could anyone guide me on the
following i
Lynn: I used the term Raw Scan to mean that I set my Minolta scan software to 16
bit linear for the color depth setting... this gives me a negative scan into
PShop... is I set my scanner to a regular 8 or 16bit scan, then it imports a
positive image into PShop... I find that working with the
From what I know of Jay Maisel, and I am sure Larry will concur... Jay doesn't
suffer fools or less than the best equipment for one minute (and a New York
minute at that)... Jay's quest for perfection and zero tolerance of less than
the best manifests itself in his work (his ratio of rejects to
Larry: Thanks for sharing this great interview with us. I met Jay back in '74
at his studio/office/home which is a 19th Century bank building down in the
Bowery. Great shooter, great teacher. Thanks.
Mike Moore
Larry Berman wrote:
We've just finished an interview with Jay Maisel. For those
A website for when you get to thinking that digital totally
dominates these folks sell you everything you need to go back in
photographic time and they give you directions on which less traveled
road to follow...
http://www.bostick-sullivan.com/
Mike M.
There was a note yesterday about Digimarc changing their pricing
structure. I checked their web site this morn and it looks like you can
still register for the basic free (0-99 images per year) creator i.d.,
which enables the Digimarc marking software that comes with Photoshop...
the way I
It sounds to me like they will not reference anyone to the data they have file
on you. It doesn't take away your ability to keep embedding watermarks (I
registered mune after April 2000 for free) nor the ability for some one using a
Digimarc reader to detect the fact that you have put a copyright
Me too... everything went fine till then, then it gave me the error and aborted
the install.. My PS says 6.01 though...
Mike M.
Austin Franklin wrote:
Has anyone had any errors when installing this? I got a "ComponentMoveData"
error #-115.
FYI: A great book on PShop (with section on filmscanning) for photographers... it
particularly addresses the problems with balancing color from a practical
standpoint... is Photoshop 5 5.5 Artistry, by Barry Haynes and Wendy Crumpler,
published by New Riders, costs about $50 US and worth every
I found this site while doing a little early morning surfing... It's a
fairly good ste of to the point tips on using Photoshop from a
photographer's (and a filmscanner) point of view...
http://www.carlvolk.com/photoshoptips.htm
Mike M.
You're right as to Carl's demise... His family has an address on the home page of
his site requesting contributions from those who are interested in keeping the
site up Mike Moore
shAf wrote:
Michael writes ...
I found this site while doing a little early morning
surfing... It's a
I just downloaded it from the below ftp. They were probably overloaded with
people trying to get there first.
Mike M.
Dale Gail wrote:
Very Strange it was there this morning.
- Original Message -
From: "Austin Franklin" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday,
Another comment to add to Roman's If it were true that the automation will
replace the brain, then why do professional writers make so much money when we
have word processors? These yechno auto toys are all meant to be extensions of
and not replacements for the brain... the brain is the
I disagree that a high end digital camera (which will cost at least US$1000 to
get 3.3 MP and that still doesn't approach the information even a Scanwit can
offer) will do the job for B/W. B/W is not just a matter of "dumping the
color"... at least not if you are a serious practitioner of the
exposure meter come in
mighty handy... it also helps to shoot color neg, so you got some room with the
exposure...
MikeM.
Tony Sleep wrote:
On Wed, 21 Feb 2001 08:34:31 -0700 Michael Moore ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) wrote:
BTW, I use a
Nikon N90s, cost me $750 for the body new... uses the same
animal than a scanner, even a film
scanner... when enough fotogs start to figure out they are going to have to scan or
die, the market will get really competitive for their dollar, just like the pro
camera market is...
Mike M.
Tony Sleep wrote:
On Mon, 19 Feb 2001 18:33:31 -0700 Michael Moore
know as the
Mac and The PC... Same thing will happen with scanning... it's only just
begun.
Mike M.
Dicky wrote:
----- Original Message -From: "Michael Moore"
[EMAIL PROTECTED]To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Wednesday,
February 21, 2001 4:19 AMSubject: Re: filmscanners: Nikon 8000
Here is a URL for KAMI... http://www.kami-produkte.de/english/sc.html
if this isn't the exact product, click on the type line in the upper right
corner of the page to get to their products list, cuz they also list an
anti-static fluid that they say is for drum scanners.
Mike Moore
IronWorks
the whole deal, from
taking the photo to making the final scans for his glossy coffee table show
book, check out this link http://www.pointreyesvisions.com/index.html
Mike Moore
Dicky wrote:
- Original Message -
From: "Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sen
enlargement and the before and after comparisons were impressive.
I hope you understand our situation and will continue to consider our
products.
Jack Phipps
Applied Science Fiction
-Original Message-
From: Michael Moore [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
I never did a get a
straight answer
I would not apply unsharp mask to a file I was going to distribute to clients or
send for color reproduction because there may be further manipulation done and
sharpening added once the image is out of your hands. I always save my archival
tiff files unsharpened.If I am publishing to the web or
techniques... It's the logical quantum leap of the zone system...
Mike Moore
Dicky wrote:
--- Original Message -
From: "Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 6:42 PM
Subject: Re: filmscanners: Nikon 8000 ED or Polaroid Sprintscan 120 ??
P.S. You better believe I get paid for my scans as well as any other time or
materials that go into creating an image.
Mike Moore
Dicky wrote:
--- Original Message -
From: "Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 6:42 PM
S
I don't know where these guys get the idea that everyone that uses a pro-sumer
(Minolta Elite, Nikon LS2000, etc.) is an amateur... I see a lot of pros buying
these to scan work to give clients... I've tried PhotoCD Master and Pro..
that's why I am scanning my own 35mm... To say that we don't
?
Maris
- Original Message -
From: "Michael Moore" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2001 7:33 PM
Subject: Re: filmscanners: Nikon 8000 ED or Polaroid Sprintscan 120 ??
| I don't know where these guys get the idea that everyone that uses a
So when will you guys make your super software available to the end users? I
have a Minolta Elite with DIce... Love it, but would also like to have the other
goodies...
Mike Moore
Jack Phipps wrote:
I wouldn't consider a scanner that didn't have Digital ICE. Not only that,
but the Nikon
Larry,
Thanks form the reply... My HP will burn at 10x, but I use it at 2x 'cuz I read
somewhere that will give me less problems when I distribute the CD to my
clients...
I am about to hook up another PC with my image box to improve workflow,
particularly as regard to using one only for scans and
to deliver the software to end users. I encourage
you to contact your scanner manufacter. They may be able to provide our
products to you.
Jack Phipps
Applied Science Fiction
-Original Message-
From: Michael Moore [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
So when will you guys make your super software
I have an HP 9210i (10x burn) that I have put about 50 disks through and will put
lots more in the coming months.. I checked out the reviews and user forums before
I bought the HP... the Sony was rated along with HP as one of the tops.. So far,
the HP does a great job and my clients have had no
FYI: For those of you who would like Photoshop but can't afford it, and
don't like Photoshop LE's limitations, check out the latest offering
from the photoimage gods at Adobe... it's called Photoshop Elements,
runs on the PShop 6 color engine with color management, HAS A HISTORY
PALETTE with
For those who are interested, www.publishingperfection.com is selling
factory refurbed LS2000's for US$995
Mike Moore
of the printer, so if the darned thing
clogs beyond repair, you're scr (my spell-checker just kicked in).
As for HP, ain't nobody that I know making third party archival pigment/inks for
the darn thing Just give me a Fuji Frontier...
Mike Moore
Ian Jackson wrote:
Michael Moore wrote.
Michael
I own a Scan Elite... have been using it with Minolta's software to take the
16 bit linear scans into PShop wher I invert them...That seems to give me the
best tonal range with the Fuji Reala I shoot... Haven't really taken the time
to learn how to run Vuescan... would appreciate your comments on
I realize we all get a little OT at times, but this thing has gone on for DAYS
...
"Hornford, Dave" wrote:
True electronic signature systems include three components -
non-repudiation, authentication, and no-change.
Like a pen signature, an electronic signature has to change the document
Rob, As you stated, the effect is fall-off due the nature of the polarizer I
used to do a lot of landscape work, never had a publisher reject any polarized
sky shots, but I also tried to cull the ones with too much drop off in the
sky... Maybe you ought to submit digital files where you've
I cut my electronics teeth on HP when I trained as an electronics tech in Th
US Navy... Their stuff was always built to last... Last summer I bought an HP
932C... it's built much better than my Epson 740... plus the cartridges come
with the nozzles built in so if a print head clogs, you just
If you want to see what some of the best photogs are up to with the
traditional/digital crossover, check out www.zonezero.com It is run by
the renowned Pedro Meyer, has great exhibits, an online magazine, a
section where you can place your portfolio, chat, etc. Best of all, it
costs zero
It's probably because he uses a Mac
shAf wrote:
Mike Moore writes ...
If you want to see what some of the best photogs are up to with
the traditional/digital crossover, check out www.zonezero.com
It is run by the renowned Pedro Meyer, has great exhibits,
an online magazine, a
I live in Salt Lake City, Utah as in Sundance Film Festival I have
also worked as still photog on a few features as well as shot a few
documentary in my hoary past lives... the digital versus film debate gets
endlessly argued here every year... when video tape came out, it was also
Here is a link to Kodak's professional pages on Photo CD... I learned
something new here this a.m. Kodak is now offering the ProPhotoCD II...
which is for digitally originated files... you can do it yourself on
PhotoCD discs with their software.
Amen brother. The only consoling thought is that if I can get this system (film,
scanner,calibration,output) working, it will allow me to have more control over
the final image I hand my client. Problem is, everytime I think I see a light at
the end of the tunnel, it turns out to be another train
Paul: I think the answer to your question depends a lot on what you are trying
to achieve... I agree that you should maybe take a little more time to look at
your scanner choice... There are a number of excellent scanners out there... I
personally use a Minolta Scan Elite... it has ICE and gives
A good place to start is the Jobo website... www.jobo.com They make a great
line of rotary drum processors for film and prints... you can start with one of
the low end units... it will give you temp controlled water bath for your drum
and chemistry, plus the advantage of the constant rotation..
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